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Liz Claiborne, Inc. Updated: Nov 2011
FABRIC AND APPAREL PERFORMANCE TESTING
PROTOCOL
Liz Claiborne, Inc. 2
GUIDELINES FOR FABRIC AND APPAREL TESTING.............................3
1. ADULTS------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 3
2. CHILDREN-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5
FABRIC TESTING AND PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS..................7
1. WOVEN FABRIC------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 7
2. KNIT FABRIC---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9
3. FUNCTIONAL FINISHED FABRICS AND GARMENTS-------------------------------- 11
GARMENT TESTING AND PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS ...........12
1. WOVEN GARMENTS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12
2. KNITWEAR CUT-SEW GARMENTS AND SWEATERS-------------------------------- 14
3. LEATHER GARMENTS-------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16
4. INTIMATE-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17
5. DOWN ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 20
Liz Claiborne, Inc. 3
Guidelines for Fabric and Apparel Testing
1. ADULTS
APPAREL TESTS TEXTILES TRIMS / ACCESSORIES
S = Standard Performance Tests F = Tests may be Performed in Fabric
Form
NATURAL & REGENERATED
FIBERS
SYNTHETIC & BLEND FIBERS
LEATHER METALS PVC PLASTICS
LEATHER, COATED LEATHER
LININGS
FIBER CONTENT LABELING
1) Fiber Content F Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List
1) Blended Fibers 2) Single Fiber
a) Specialty Wool Fibers such as
Cashmere, Mohair, Camel, Angora, etc.
b) Graded Wool, Merino Wool, Lamb’s Wool
c) Linen 3) Fur, Faux Fur 4) Linings used for Warmth 5) Upon request
CARE LABELING
2) Dimensional Stability to Laundering S S S
3) Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning S S S
(Leather Clean) S
4) Appearance after Laundering S S S
5) Appearance after Dry Cleaning S S S (Leather Clean) S
6) Colorfastness to LaunderingF S S S
7) Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning F S S S (Leather Clean) S
8) Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine BleachF (For USA Only) S S
Trims are Tested same as Garments Trims may require additional testing, refer
to Trim Section
S
9) Seam Torque / Spirality (Knits) Conditional List Conditional List
Single Knits such as Jersey, French Terry, Pique, etc. using Single Yarn (20/1, 30/1, etc.), Loose and Open Structured Fabrics
Conditional List
FLAMMABILITY COMPLIANCE
10) Flammability (General Wearing Apparel)F Conditional List Conditional List
1) Plain Surface Fabrics Weighing under 3.0 oz/yd2 (100 gm/m2, 23 momme)
Conditional List
2) Fabrics with Raised Fiber Surface
Exemptions - Fabrics made Entirely or in Combinations of Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Olefin, and Wool Fibers
For additional information, refer to "Flammability Testing" in this Section of the Manual
PERFORMANCE ASSURANCE
11) Colorfastness to Crocking (Medium & Dark Colors)F
S S S S
Liz Claiborne, Inc. 4
APPAREL TESTS TEXTILES TRIMS / ACCESSORIES
S = Standard Performance Tests F = Tests may be Performed in Fabric
Form
NATURAL & REGENERATED
FIBERS
SYNTHETIC & BLEND FIBERS
LEATHER METALS PVC PLASTICS
LEATHER, COATED LEATHER
LININGS
12) Colorfastness to WaterF Conditional List Conditional List
Contrast Colors / Color Blocked Styles
Conditional List
13) Colorfastness to LightF Conditional List Conditional List
Silk, Wool, Pigment Dyes / Prints, Bright Colors, Golf and Tennis Apparel, Leather
Conditional List
14) Colorfastness to PerspirationF Conditional List Silk, Golf and Tennis Apparel
15) Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water Swimwear
Conditional List Conditional List
16) Colorfastness to Sea Water Swimwear Conditional List Conditional List
17) pH F
In White Color Fabric or For China Conditional List Conditional List Conditional List
18) Tensile Strength (Woven)F S S S 19) Seam Slippage (Woven)F S S S 20) Tearing Strength (Woven)F S S S 21) Seam Breaking Strength (Woven) Conditional List Conditional List
Seams determined to be with Weak Sewing Threads or Low Stitch Density
Conditional List
22) Abrasion Resistance (Woven)F Conditional List Conditional List Plain Fabric
Conditional List
23) Pilling ResistanceF Conditional List Conditional List
Raised Fiber Surfaces (Sueded, Brushed, Napped, Sanded), Fabrics made of Wool, Acrylic, Polyester/Cotton or Rayon Blends
Conditional List
24) Stretch and Recovery (Woven)F Conditional List Conditional List Fabrics with Spandex / Elastane
Conditional List
25) Bursting Strength (Knits)F Conditional List Conditional List
Weak Knits, Very Light or Open Knits, Fabrics Treated with Resin
Conditional List
26) Colorfastness to Dye Transfer in StorageF Conditional List Conditional List Conditional
List Contrast Colors / Color Block
27) Colorfastness to Ozone (woven)F Conditional List Conditional List Denim or White
28) Pile RetentionF Pile Fabrics - Corduroy, Velvet,
Chenille, etc.
Conditional List
Conditional List
Conditional
List
29) Bowing and SkewingF Conditional ListConditional List Woven Fabric - Twill Bottom, Denim
Bottom, Yarn Dyed Plaid Check/Stripe 30) Fabric WeightF S S
Restricted Substances Tests Refer to Section in the Manual on Restricted Substances Protocol for Apparel... ADULT
Liz Claiborne, Inc. 5
Guidelines for Fabric and Apparel Testing 2. CHILDREN
APPAREL TESTS TEXTILES TRIMS / ACCESSORIES
S = Standard Performance Tests F = Tests may be Performed in Fabric Form
NATURAL & REGENERATED
FIBERS
SYNTHETIC & BLENDED
FIBERS
LEATHER METALS PVC PLASTICS
LEATHER, COATED LEATHER
LININGS
FIBER CONTENT LABELING
1) Fiber Content F Conditional List Conditional List
3) Blended Fibers 4) Single Fiber
a) Specialty Wool Fibers such
as Cashmere, Mohair, Camel, Angora, etc.
b) Graded Wool, Merino Wool, Lamb’s Wool
c) Linen 3) Fur, Faux Fur 4) Linings used for Warmth 5) Upon request
Conditional List
CARE LABELING
2) Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage) to Laundering S S S
3) Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage) to Dry Cleaning S S S
(Leather Clean) S
4) Appearance after Laundering S S S
5) Appearance after Dry Cleaning S S S (Leather Clean) S
6) Colorfastness to LaunderingF S S S
7) Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning F S S S (Leather Clean) S
8) Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine BleachF (For USA Only) S S
Trims are Tested same as Garments Trims may require additional testing, refer
to Trim Section
S
9) Seam Torque / Spirality (Knits) Conditional List Conditional List Conditional
List
Single Knits such as Jersey, French Terry, Pique, etc. using Single yarn (20/1, 30/1, etc.), Loose and Open Structured Fabrics
FLAMMABILITY COMPLIANCE
10) Flammability (General Wearing Apparel)F Conditional List Conditional
List
1) Plain Surface Fabrics Weighing under 3.0 oz/yd2 (100 gm/m2, 23 momme)
Conditional List
2) Fabrics with Raised Fiber Surface
Exemptions- Fabrics made Entirely or in Combination of Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic, Modacrylic, Olefin, and Wool Fibers
For additional Information, refer to "Flammability" in this section
PERFORMANCE ASSURANCE
11) Colorfastness to WaterF
Contrast Colors / Color Blocked Styles
Conditional List
Conditional List
Conditional List
12) Colorfastness to CrockingF S S S S 13) Colorfastness to PerspirationF S S S
Liz Claiborne, Inc. 6
APPAREL TESTS TEXTILES TRIMS / ACCESSORIES
S = Standard Performance Tests F = Tests may be Performed in Fabric Form
NATURAL & REGENERATED
FIBERS
SYNTHETIC & BLENDED
FIBERS
LEATHER METALS PVC PLASTICS
LEATHER, COATED LEATHER
LININGS
14) Colorfastness to LightF Conditional List
Silk, Wool, Pigment Dyes / Prints, Bright Colors, Leather
Conditional List
Conditional List
15) Colorfastness to Saliva (Under 36 months) S S S
16) Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water Swimwear
Conditional List Conditional List
17) Colorfastness to Sea Water Swimwear Conditional List Conditional
List
18) Tensile Strength (Woven)F S S S 19) Seam Slippage (Woven)F S S S 20) Tearing Strength (Woven)F S S S
21) Seam Breaking Strength Conditional List Conditional List
Seams determined to be with Weak Sewing Thread or Low Stitch Density
Conditional List
22) Abrasion Resistance (Woven)F
Plain Fabric Conditional List Conditional
List
Conditional List
23) Pilling ResistanceF
Raised Fiber Surfaces (Sueded, Brushed, Napped, Sanded), Fabrics made from Wool, Acrylic, Polyester / Cotton or Rayon Blends
Conditional List
Conditional List
Conditional List
24) Stretch and Recovery (Woven)F Conditional List Conditional List
Fabrics with Spandex / Elastane 25) Bursting Strength (Knits)F Conditional List
Weak Knits, Very Light or Open Knits, Fabrics Treated with Resin
Conditional List
Conditional List
26) Pile RetentionF Conditional List
Pile Fabrics - Corduroy, Velour, Chenille, etc.
Conditional List
Conditional List
27) pH S S S
28) Colorfastness to Dye Transfer in StorgageF Conditional List Conditional
List Contrast Colors / Color Block
Conditional List
29) Colorfastness to Ozone (Woven)F Conditional List
Denim or White
Conditional List
30) Bowing and SkewingF Conditional List Conditional List
Woven Fabric - Twill Bottom, Denim Bottom, Yarn Dyed Plaid Check/Stripe
31) Fabric WeightF S S
Child Product Safety Tests and Requirements Refer to Testing Protocol for Children's Apparel Safety in this Section
Restricted Substances Tests Refer to Section in the Manual on Restricted Substances Protocol on Apparel… CHILDREN
Liz Claiborne, Inc. 7
Fabric Testing and Performance Specifications 1. WOVEN FABRIC
Characteristic Test Method End Use Requirements
No Tolerance for Single Fiber +/- 3% Tolerance for Blends
Fiber Content AATCC 20 / 20A All For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must be based on actual results (rounded to the nearest whole number) even the test results are within 3% tolerance.
Fabric Weight ASTM D 3776 All +/- 3.0% Tolerance from Standard Fabric Count (Ends x Picks) ASTM D 3775 All +/- 5% Tolerance from Standard Dimensional Stability to Laundering
3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print
AATCC 135 (modified) Other Brands: After 1 wash Kate Spade: After 3 washes
Washable Fabrics
Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -3% Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -5%, for two-way Stretch Fabrics Maximum, Length: -5%, Width: -5%, for four-way Stretch Fabrics No Growth
Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One Time Only Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content
AATCC 158 Dry Cleanable Fabrics
Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -3% Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -5%, for two-way Stretch Fabrics Maximum, Length: -5%, Width: -5%, for four-way Stretch Fabrics No Growth
Bowing: 1" Maximum. Bowing and Skewing ASTM D 3882 All
Skewing: 3% of Fabric Width or 1.5” Maximum.
Flammability 16 CFR Parts 1610 All Non-Exempt Fabrics Class 1 ONLY
Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3512, 30 minutes As requested 3.0 Minimum
Pile Retention ASTM D 4685 (Face 300 cycles / Back 100 Cycles)
Pile Fabrics 3.5 Minimum, Face and Back
Plain Fabrics up to 7.5 oz/yd2
No rupture to 10,000 cycles
Abrasion Resistance ASTM D 4966
Plain Fabrics over 7.5 oz/yd2
No rupture to 15,000 cycles
Abrasion Flex (Optional) ASTM D 3885
Linen Fabrics, Stiff Fabric (e.g. densely woven or chemical finished stiffening with very little drape)
No Rupture or Damage, 1,000 Cycles Minimum
Abrasion Flat (Frosting) (Optional) AATCC 119 Durable press, Top stitch Color Change: 3.0 or better, 1200 Cycles
Shorts, Pants, Jeans, Jackets
50 Lbs, Minimum
Blouse, Skirt, Dress, Lining
25 Lbs, Minimum
Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 – Grab Method
Intimate < or equal 3 oz/yd2: min 25lbs; >3 oz/yd2: min 50lbs
Shorts, Pants, Jeans, Jackets, All Plus Size Styles
2.5 Lbs Minimum
Blouse, Skirt, Dress, Lining, excluding Plus Size Styles
1.5 Lbs Minimum
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424
Intimate < 3 oz/yd2: min 1.5lbs; 3~6oz/yd2: min 2.0lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 2.5lbs
Seam Slippage ASTM D 434 Shorts, Pants, 25 Lbs Minimum
Liz Claiborne, Inc. 8
Characteristic Test Method End Use Requirements Jeans, Jackets, All Plus Size Styles
1/4" Seam Opening / Separation
Skirt, Dress, Blouse, Shirt, Lining, excluding Plus Size Styles
15 Lbs Minimum 1/4" Seam Opening / Separation
Intimate < 4 oz/yd2: min 15lbs; 4~6oz/yd2: min 20lbs
>6 oz/yd2: min 25 lbs ¼” Maximum Seam Opening / Separation
All, Except Silk and Lining
25 Lbs Minimum
Silk or Lining 15 Lbs Minimum
Seam Breaking Strength ASTMD D 1683 Intimate < 4 oz/yd2: min 15lbs; 4~6oz/yd2: min 20lbs
>6 oz/yd2: min 25 lbs Elongation: 15 %, minimum
All Bottom Weight Stretch Fabrics Net Growth: 4%, maximum, 30 minutes
Elongation: 10%, minimum
Stretch and Recovery ASTM D 3107 (4.0 Lbs)All Top Weight Stretch Fabrics Net Growth: 6%, maximum, 30 minutes
All Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Laundering Sample exclude Novelty Trims, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print Glitter Print/ Flocking Print if 3 times washes are required for Appearance after Wash
AATCC 61, 2A Refer to Liz# 3 COLOR BLOCK
refer to Liz#4
Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Soaking Test (TS-001) All Color Change: 4.0 or better
All Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4
Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
Dry: 4.0 or better
All, except Below Wet: 3.0 or better
Dry: 4.0 or better
Dark Shades (Black, Red, Navy) Wet: 2.5 or better
Indigos Dry: 3.0 or better; Wet: 2.0 or better
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Pigments Dry: 3.5 or better; Wet: 2.5 or better
All Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107 COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4
Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
All Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15 COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4
Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
Colorfastness to Light AATCC 16, 20 AFU 5 AFU
All, Except Silk Silk Color Change: 4.0 or better
Colorfastness to Dye Transfer in Storage AATCC 163
Contrast Colors, Color Block refer to Liz#4
Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
pH Value AATCC 81 All 5.0 - 6.0 (white color) 5.0 – 6.5 (other colors)
Colorfastness to Ozone AATCC 109 Denim or White 3.5 or better @ 2 cycles
Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC162 Swimwear Color Change: 4.0 or better
Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Sea Water AATCC106 Swimwear Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Restricted Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children
Liz Claiborne, Inc. 9
Fabric Testing and Performance Specifications 2. KNIT FABRIC
Characteristic Test Method Applicable For Requirements No Tolerance for Single Fiber +/- 3% Tolerance for Blends
Fiber Content AATCC 20 / 20A All For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must be based on actual results (rounded to the nearest whole number) even the test results are within 3% tolerance.
Fabrics +/- 3% Tolerance from standard Fabric Weight ASTM D 3776 Stretch Fabrics +/- 5% Tolerance from standard Fabric Count (Wales & Courses) ASTM D 3887 All +/- 5% Tolerance from standard Dimensional Stability to Laundering 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print
AATCC 135 Other Brands: After 1 wash Kate Spade: After 3 washes
Washable Fabrics
Maximum, Length : -7%, Width: -7%, if the garment shrinkage is Length: -5%, Width: -5% or less All Synthetic or Synthetic Rich Fabrics- Maximum: Length: -5 %, Width: -5% or less No Growth
Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning One Time Only Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -3% Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content
AATCC 158 Dry Cleanable Fabrics No Growth
Before Wash: 7% Maximum Fabric Distortion; 3% Maximum for Stripes or Horizontal Stitches Resistance to Torque (Spirality) Refer to Liz#1 Single Knits and
Loose Knits Seam Torque: 5% Maximum
Flammability 16 CFR Parts 1610 Non-Exempt Fabrics Class 1 ONLY
ASTM D 3512, 30 Minutes No Glue on Edges; Sew edges if needed
All 4.0 Minimum
Pilling Resistance
ISO 12945-1, 4 hours Fabrics cannot undergone ASTM D3512
3-4 Minimum
Burst Strength ASTM D 3786 All
> or = 150 gm/m2: 55 Lbs Per Square Inch (PSI), Minimum < 150 gm/m2: 45 Lbs Per Square Inch (PSI), Minimum Sheer Knits (Lace, Mesh, etc.): 30 Lbs Per Square Inch (PSI), Minimum
Pile Retention ASTM D 4685 Pile Fabrics 3.5 Minimum
Snagging Resistance ASTM D 5362
Sweater, Fabric with Filament Yarns weighing under 140 gm/m2, loose structures
3.5 Minimum
All Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Laundering Sample exclude Novelty Trims, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print if 3 times washes are required for Appearance after Wash
AATCC 61, 2A Refer to Liz# 3 COLOR BLOCK
Refer to Liz#4
Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine bleach Soaking Test (TS-001) All Color Change: 4.0 or better
Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 All Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Liz Claiborne, Inc. 10
Characteristic Test Method Applicable For Requirements COLOR BLOCK Refer to Liz#4
Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) Dry: 4.0 or better All, Except below Wet: 3.0 or better Dry: 4.0 or better Dark Colors (Black,
Red, Navy) Wet: 2.5 or better Dry: 3.5 or better Pigments Wet: 2.5 or better
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Indigos Dry: 3.5 or better Wet: 2.0 or better
All Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107 COLOR BLOCK Refer to Liz#4
Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
Colorfastness to Light AATCC 16, 20 AFU 5 AFU
All, Except Silk Silk Color Change: 4.0 or better
All Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15 COLOR BLOCK Refer to Liz#4
Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
Colorfastness to Dye Transfer in Storage AATCC 163 Contrast Colors / Color Block Refer to Liz#4
Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC162 Swimwear Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Sea Water AATCC106 Swimwear Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
pH Value AATCC 81 All 5.0 - 6.0 (white color) 5.0 – 6.5 (other colors)
Restricted Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children
Liz Claiborne, Inc. 11
Fabric Testing and Performance Specifications 3. FUNCTIONAL FINISHED FABRICS AND GARMENTS
Functional Finish Test Method Requirements Care Free, Wrinkle Resist Fabric & Seam Smoothness AATCC143 3.5 Minimum per AATCC Scale after 3x Washes Fabric Crease Retention AATCC 88C 3.5 Minimum per AATCC Scale after 3x Washes Non-Iron AATCC 124 4.0 Minimum Per AATCC Scale after 3x Washes Original: 100 Rating
Water Repellency- Spray Test AATCC 22 After 3x Washes: 70 Rating Minimum
Water Resistance - Rain Test AATCC 35 1 gram Maximum on original and after 3 x washes
Stain Repellency Treated Fabrics Original 20 x Washes
Water Repellency AATCC 22 100 70 Minimum Oil Repellency AATCC 118 6* 4 Minimum
Water / Alcohol Repellency Drop Test DuPont Method (AATCC 193)
6* *Tolerance 1
4 Minimum
1.0 second or Less
Wicking AATCC 79
"Ciba" Method/ Refer to Liz# 2 5 cm after 10 minutes Minimum for woven 10 cm after 30 minutes Minimum for knits
Original: 0% Bacterial Growth
AATCC 147 (Leaching Type Agent) 20 Washes: 0% Bacterial Growth
AATCC 100 (Non-Leaching Type Agent) 99.9% Reduction, Minimum
Original: 99.9% Reduction, Minimum
Antimicrobial
ASTM E 2149 (Non-Leaching Type Agent) 20 Washes: 80% Reduction, Minimum
Ultraviolet (UV) Protection AATCC 183
40 or above UPF Rating Non-Mesh Fabrics 250 gm/m2 or above may be exempted
Restricted Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children
Liz Claiborne, Inc. 12
Garment Testing and Performance Specifications 1. WOVEN GARMENTS
Test Description Test Method Requirements Mandatory Garment Test per Care Instructions with Fabric Testing
Dimensional Stability to Laundering 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print
AATCC 150 Other Brands: After 1 wash Kate Spade: After 3 washes
Maximum, Length= - 3%, Width= -3% Maximum, Length= -3%, Width= -5% for two-way Stretch Fabrics Maximum, Length= -5%, Width= -5% for four-way Stretch fabrics No Distortion Between Components No Growth
Appearance after Laundering 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print
Visual Other Brands: After 1 wash Kate Spade: After 3 washes
Acceptable Appearance
Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content
AATCC 158
Maximum, Length= -3%, Width= -3% Maximum, Length= -3%, Width= -5%, for two-way Stretch Fabrics Maximum, Length= -5%, Width= -5%, for four-way Stretch Fabrics No Distortion Between Components No Growth
Appearance after Dry Cleaning Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content
Visual Acceptable Appearance
Conditional Garment Tests with Fabric Testing
No Tolerance for Single Fiber +/- 3% Tolerance for Blends.
Fiber Content (If Garment includes Fibers, Trims, etc Other than Tested Fabric)
AATCC 20 / 20A For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must be based on actual results (rounded to the nearest whole number) even the test results are within 3% tolerance.
Flammability (If Non-Exempt Trims are in Garment) 16 CFR Parts 1610 Class 1 ONLY
25 Lbs Minimum (Pants, Jeans, Short, Jackets, All Women Styles)
15 Lbs Minimum (Blouse, Skirt, Dress, Silk, Lining)
Seam Slippage (If additional trims, novelty seams, bias cutting, etc.) ASTM D 434
¼” Maximum Seam Opening / Separation
Seam Torque (Spirality) (Based on Style) AATCC 179 5% Maximum
Additional Tests for Garments Without Fabric Testing Fabric Weight (oz/yd2) ASTM D 3776 +/- 3% Tolerance from standard. Fabric Count (Ends x Picks) ASTM D 3887 +/- 5% Tolerance from standard. Pilling Resistance ASM D 3512, 30 minutes 3.0 Minimum
Pile Retention ASTM D 4685 Face- 300 Cycles
Back- 100 Cycles 3.5 Minimum, Face and Back
ASTM D 4966
Abrasion Resistance 10,000 Cycles 15,000 Cycles
No Rupture, Fabrics weighing up to 7.5 oz/yd2 No Rupture, Fabrics weighing over 7.5 oz/yd2
Abrasion Flex ASTM D 3885 No Rupture or Damage, 1,000 Cycles Minimum. Tensile Strength ASTM D 5034 Shorts, Pants, Jeans, Jackets: 50 bs Minimum
Blouse, Skirt, Dress, Lining: 25 Lbs Minimum
Shorts, Pants, Jeans, Jackets, All Plus Size Styles: 2.5 Lbs Minimum
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424
Blouse, Skirt, Dress, Lining, excluding Plus Size Styles:
Liz Claiborne, Inc. 13
Test Description Test Method Requirements 1.5 Lbs Minimum
25 Lbs Minimum (All, except Silk and Lining) Seam Breaking Strength ASTM D 1683
15 Lbs Minimum, Silk or Lining All Bottom Weight Stretch Goods: Elongation: 15% Minimum Net Growth: 4% Maximum, 30 minutes All Top Weight Stretch Goods: Elongation: 10% Minimum
Stretch and Recovery ASTM D 3107 (4.0 Lbs)
Net Growth: 6% Maximum, 30 minutes Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Laundering Sample exclude Novelty Trims, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print if 3 times washes are required for Appearance after Wash
AATCC 61, 2A Refer to Liz# 3
For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Soaking Test (TS-001) Color Change: 4.0 or better
Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
General: Dry 4.0 / Wet 3.0; For Dark Colors (Black, Red, Navy): Wet 2.5
Pigment: Dry 3.5 / Wet 2.5
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Indigos: Dry 3.0 / Wet 2.0
Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107 For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4
Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15 For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4
Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
Colorfastness to Light AATCC 16, 20 AFU 5 AFU
4.0 Minimum, All, Except Silk 4.0 Minimum, Silk
Colorfastness to Dye Transfer in Storage AATCC 163 Staining: 4.0 or better.
pH Value AATCC 81 5.0 - 6.0 (white color) 5.0 – 6.5 (other colors)
Restricted Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children
Liz Claiborne, Inc. 14
Garment Testing and Performance Specifications 2. KNITWEAR CUT-SEW GARMENTS AND SWEATERS
Test Description Test Method Requirements Mandatory Garment Test per Care Instructions with Fabric Testing
Maximum, Length: - 5%, Width: -5%
Dimensional Stability to Laundering 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print
AATCC 150 Other Brands: After 1 wash Kate Spade: After 3 washes
No Distortion Between Components; No Growth
Appearance after Laundering 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print
Visual Other Brands: After 1 wash Kate Spade: After 3 washes
Acceptable Appearance
Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -3%
Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content
AATCC 158 No Distortion Between Components; No Growth
Appearance after Dry Cleaning Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content
Visual Acceptable Appearance
Conditional Garment Tests with Fabric Testing
No Tolerance for Single Fiber +/-3% Tolerance for Blends
Fiber Content (If Garment includes Fibers, Trims, Other than Tested Fabric) AATCC 20 / 20A
For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must be based on actual results (rounded to the nearest whole number) even the test results are within 3% tolerance.
Flammability (If Non-Exempt Trims are in Garment) 16 CFR Parts 1610 Class 1 ONLY
Additional Tests for Garments without Fabric Testing
Cut-Sew - Fabric Weight (gm/m2 or oz/yd2) ASTM D 3776 +/- 3% Tolerance from Standard.
Sweater Weight Sweater Weighing Scale, Lbs/Dozen +/- 3% Lbs from standard
Stitch Count (Wales x Courses) ASTM D 3887 + / - 5% from standard Bursting Strength ASTM D 3786 55 PSI Minimum. Before Wash: 7% Maximum Fabric Distortion Resistance to Torque (Spirality) Refer to Liz# 1
Seam Torque: 5% Maximum
Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3512 30 Minutes, No Glue on Edges 4.0 Minimum
Snagging Resistance ASTM D 5362 3.5 Minimum, Sweater or Fabrics with Filament Yarns Weighing under 140 gm/m2 or Loose structures Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Laundering Sample exclude Novelty Trims, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print if 3 times washes are required for Appearance after Wash
AATCC 61, 2A/ Refer to Liz#3 For COLOR BLOCK - Color Change and Staining:
4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
Colorfastness to Non-chlorine bleach Soaking Test (TS-001) Color Change: 4.0 or better Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 For COLOR BLOCK - Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color) General: Dry 4.0 / Wet 3.0 or better; For Dark Colors (Black, Red, Navy): Wet 2.5 or better Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8 Pigment/Indigo: Dry 3.5/ Wet 2.5 (pigment), 2.0 (Indigo)
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Test Description Test Method Requirements Color Change: 4.0 or better
Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107 For COLOR BLOCK - Color Change and Staining:
4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15 For COLOR BLOCK - Color Change and Staining:
4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
AATCC 16, 20 AFU 4.0 Minimum, All, Except Silk Colorfastness to Light 5 AFU 4.0 Minimum, Silk
Colorfastness to Dye Transfer in Storage AATCC 163 Staining: 4.0 or better
pH Value AATCC 81 5.0 - 6.0 (white color) 5.0 – 6.5 (other colors)
Restricted Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children
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Garment Testing and Performance Specifications 3. LEATHER GARMENTS
Test Description Test Method Requirements Mandatory Garment Tests
Dimensional Stability to Cleaning Leather Cleaning Method
Maximum, Length: -2%, Width -2% No Distortion Between Components
Appearance after Dry Cleaning Visual Acceptable Appearance
Dimensional Stability (for Washable Leathers) Per Care Instructions
Maximum, Length: -3%, Width: -3% No Distortion Between Components
Appearance after Washing Visual & Hand-Feel Acceptable. Hand-feel and appearance must compare favorable to before hand wash
Additional Tests When Applicable Color Change: 3.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Cleaning Leather Cleaning Method For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
Dry 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 116 Wet: 2.0 or better
Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107 For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
Colorfastness to Light AATCC 16, 20 AFU 5 AFU
4.0 or better, All, Except Suedes 4.0 or better, Suedes
Tensile Strength ASTM D 2208 25 Lbs Minimum
Seam Strength ASTM D 1683 20 Lbs Minimum
Flammability 16 CFR Parts 1610 Class 1 ONLY
pH Value ISO4045 -1 4.0 – 7.5 Restricted Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children
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Garment Testing and Performance Specifications 4. INTIMATE
Test Description Test Method Requirements Mandatory Garment Test per Care Instructions with Fabric Testing
Woven: Maximum, Length= - 3%, Width= -3% Maximum, Length= -3%, Width= -5% for two-way Stretch Fabrics Maximum, Length= -5%, Width= -5% for four-way Stretch fabrics No Distortion Between Components No Growth * Must include the wire channel in measurements for Wired Bras
Dimensional Stability to Laundering 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print
AATCC 150
Knit: Maximum, Length: - 5%, Width: -5% No Distortion Between Components; No Growth * Must include the wire channel in measurements for Wired Bras
Appearance after Laundering 3 times washing is required for Wool and/or Wool blended, Novelty Fabric/Trim, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ Glitter Print/ Flocking Print
Visual Acceptable Appearance
Dimensional Stability to Dry Cleaning Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content
AATCC 158
Maximum, Length= -3%, Width= -3% Maximum, Length= -3%, Width= -5%, for two-way Stretch Fabrics Maximum, Length= -5%, Width= -5%, for four-way Stretch Fabrics No Distortion Between Components No Growth * Must include the wire channel in measurements for Wired Bras
Appearance after Dry Cleaning Multiple Dry Cleaning may be required based on Fabric/Trim Novelty, Embellishment, and/or Fiber Content
Visual Acceptable Appearance
Conditional Garment Tests with Fabric Testing +/- 3% Tolerance for Blends.
Fiber Content (If Garment includes Fibers, Trims, etc Other than Tested Fabric)
AATCC 20 / 20A No Tolerance for Single Fiber For Blends: the recommended Fiber Content must be based on actual findings even the results are within 3% tolerance.
Flammability (If Non-Exempt Trims are in Garment) 16 CFR Parts 1610 Class 1 ONLY
< 4 oz/yd2: min 15lbs; 4~6oz/yd2: min 20lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 25 lbs
Seam Slippage (If additional trims, novelty seams, bias cutting, etc.) (Woven)
ASTM D 434 ¼” Maximum Seam Opening / Separation
Seam Torque (Spirality) (Based on Style) AATCC 179 5% Maximum
Additional Tests for Garments Without Fabric Testing Fabric Weight (oz/yd2) ASTM D 3776 +/- 3% Tolerance from standard. Fabric Count (Ends x Picks) ASTM D 3887 +/- 5% Tolerance from standard. Tensile Strength (Woven) ASTM D 5034 < or equal 3 oz/yd2: min 25lbs
>3 oz/yd2: min 50lbs
Tearing Strength (Woven) ASTM D 1424 < 3 oz/yd2: min 1.5lbs 3~6oz/yd2: min 2.0lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 2.5 lbs
Seam Breaking Strength (Woven) ASTM D 1683 < 4 oz/yd2: min 15lbs
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Test Description Test Method Requirements 4~6oz/yd2: min 20lbs >6 oz/yd2: min 25 lbs
Bursting Strength (Knit) ASTM D 3786 55 PSI Minimum.
Pilling Resistance ASTM D 3512 30 Minutes, No Glue on Edges
Woven: 3.0 Minimum Knit: 4.0 Minimum
All Bottom Weight Stretch Goods Elongation: 15% Minimum Net Growth: 4% Maximum, 30 minutes All Top Weight Stretch Goods: Elongation: 10% Minimum
Woven - ASTM D 3107
Net Growth: 6% Maximum, 30 minutes Stretch and Recovery
Knit - ASTM D 4964 Modulus: +/- 15 Recovery: 85% Elongation: +/- 10%
Seam Stretchability (Knit Seams) ASTM D1683 mod 7lbs min or 35% elongation
Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Laundering Sample exclude Novelty Trims, Embellishment, and/or with Foil Print/ / Glitter Print /Flocking Print if 3 times washes are required for Appearance after Wash
AATCC 61, 2A/ Refer to Liz# 3
For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Soaking Test (TS-001) Color Change: 4.0 or better Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning AATCC 132 For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
General: Dry 4.0 / Wet 3.0; For Dark Colors (Black, Red, Navy): Wet 2.5
Pigment: Dry 3.5 / Wet 2.5
Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8
Indigos: Dry 3.0 / Wet 2.0
Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107 For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4
Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
Color Change: 4.0 or better Staining: 3.0 or better
Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15
For COLOR BLOCK refer to Liz#4 Color Change and Staining: 4.5 or better(white) 4.0 or better (other color)
Colorfastness to Light AATCC 16, 20 AFU 5 AFU
4.0 Minimum, All, Except Silk 4.0 Minimum, Silk
pH Value AATCC 81
5.0 - 6.0 (white color) 5.0 – 6.5 (other colors)
Additional Tests for Bras Only
Bra Band Elongation Refer to Liz#6 1&2 Hook and Eye closure: 2.4 min & 1.5 max 3&4 Hook and Eye closure: 3.4 min & 2.5 max
Bra Seam Strength - Side
- Cup - Front
ASTM D1683 mod 15lbs
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Test Description Test Method Requirements Joining Strength - Center Front Joining (Cup to Cup) - Strap Joining (Strap to Cup)
ASTM D1683 mod 15lbs
Attachment Strength - Strap
Clear Elastic: 20lbs Woven/ Knit Elastic: 25lbs
- Embellishment ASTM D1683 mod
17 lbs/10 secs
Bra Closure Strength (Hook and Eye) ASTM D1683 mod 1 Hook Bras: 25 lbs 2 – 3 Hook Bras: 35 lbs
Additional Tests for Padded (Water/ Gel Pad) Bras Only Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes (for Bra Pad through garment only) AATCC 23 (1 cycle) Color Change: 4.0 or better
Resistance Compression (burst strength)
Standard Measure Use Instron Compression Mode – with Compression Jaws
100 psi minimum
Content/ Material ID FTIR analysis Report Actual Restricted Substances (RS) Test Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children
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5. DOWN
Test Test Method Requirements Content Labeling
Composition ASTM D4524
As Claimed Must be 100% down to label as 100% Down, All Down, Pure Down Must be minimum 75% down to label as unqualified “Down” +/- 2 to 5% Tolerance for unavoidable variations
Species
Goose or Duck Microscopic As claimed. Must be 90% of the plumage to label the specie
Cleanliness Oxygen Number IDFB Part 7 < 10
Turbidity IDFB Part 11- A < 10 NTU
Penetration Penetration of Resistance of Cloth
Federal Standard 191A, Method 5530 Minimum Penetration (1 or 2)
Certification
Certification and Documentation
US Wildlife and Endangered Species (Refer to Manual under Customs)
Goose, Duck, etc. originated from Asia and China require Health Certificate and Fumigation Certificate due to Avian Influenza. The health certificate should consists species common name; scientific name; country of origin and farm�raised/taken from wild. If not from Asia and China, vendor has to submit Declaration from material supplier to state the feathers were treated and sourced from origin and are not prohibited or endangered.
Apparel with Down
Must test garment according to care instruction and pass
Restricted Substances (RS) Test
Refer To RSL Protocol for Adults and/ or Children
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