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7/28/2019 FACTORS WHICH AFFECT THE COST OF.pptx
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COST OFABRIC
MATERIALCOST A
About 65- 70% cost of the garment is the cost of the f
Raw material
66%
Wages &
Salaries
8%
Size & chemical8%
Utility Cost
4%
AdministrativeExpences
7%
Depriciation Cost
7%
Cost Of Fabric
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YARN Count of the Yarn
-finer the yarn, more expensive.
Carded or Combed Yarn more expensive than carded yarns
Combed yarns have more luster and strength than carded yarns
All finer counts above 40s are generally combed yarns.
Method of spinning-open-end or ring spun.
Open end yarns are cheaper as the cost of manufacturing is less. It is used for coarser yarn countbelow 20s.
The cost of man-made spun yarns will depend on the fineness - finer the yarn, more expensive it
is.
Number of fine filaments used in making the yarn will also affect the cost.
Bright or Dull -Bright yarns are more expensive than dull.
Textured yarns are more expensive than flat because of the additional process cost.
The quality of mill-made fabrics is better than power loom made fabrics in terms of yarn quality.
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GSM of the FabricEPI & PPI
Construction of the Fabric
Inversely proportional to thecount of the yarn
For the same variety ofthe fabric, as the GSMincreases the costincreases.
(PPI*0.6)/countof warp
(EPI*0.6)/countof weft
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Production cost or cost of weaving process It includes machine running cost, maintenance, labor cost, power & fuel, etc.
The weaving cost is affected by the beam size - if the beam is small in length, th
more as beam gaiting and knotting will add to the cost.
Weaving cost weaving cost is expressed as paisa/pick/inch/sq mt
for rapier loom for plain weave 40" width fabrics = 8 paisa/pick/inch/sq mt
For twill weave, satin weave, dobby the cost = 12 paisa/pick/ inch/sq mt.
For 2400 hook jacquard, the cost = 40 paisa/pick/inch/sq mt.
For double beam fabrics like seer sucker, the cost is = 20 paisa/pick/inch/sq mt
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Wastage and shrinkage
Wastage of 2-3% in warping and weaving and shrinka
1.5% from loom to grey folding stage is included in th
weaving cost.
About 92% of the fabric produced is sold as fresh. The
loss is about 7% while running cotton material but is o
using polyester yarn.
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Sizing and chemical costThe sizing cost depends upon the count of the yarns. The count
finer the size and chemical cost increases as a rich solution, bettsize and chemicals is required for better strength.
Dying cost
Depend on the length of fabric
Shade
Color
Quality
Weight of the fabric
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MetamerismSome colors change their shade in different lights. If t
shades are matched in two or three lights only then tless but, when the matching is required in all the six ligmetamerism is required, then better quality dyes are and the cost is more.
FINISHINGCOST If softeners are added in the jigger after dyeing, then
is Rs.10/kg whereas if it is done on a separate machinlater stentering is done then the cost is Rs.20/kg.
The quality of fabric is better in second case as the cbetter and there is no shrinkage later.
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Sewing Thread Normally used 100% spun polyester thread, 100% cotton threa
thread.
50/2 is the most common count sewing thread normally.
40/2 & 40/3 count sewing thread used for heavy garment.
The price of 40/2 yarn is higher than 50/2.
Polished threads smooth surface, round shape, higher stitensile strength.
Rayon, Nylon, Metallic threads are used according
to the need
Thread only makes up a small percent of the total cost of a sewnproduct, but shares 50% of the responsibility of the seam.
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Zippers Cost depends on 3 major parts -Tape, Teeth (elements) and Slider. Teeth - Nylon Teeth, vislone teeth, metal teeth etc. Tooth size - the smaller the number the smaller the tooth size: i.e.
than #10 and thus not as strong. Color- Tape color, Teeth color. Function - Auto lock, Semi auto lock, Hidden zipper, reversible
(O/E), Close End (C/E) etc. Length - As per requirement 18 cm, 66 cm etc.
Zipper type 1-way Separating Zipper 2-way Separating Zipper
Non - Separating Zipper Pocket Zipper Lengths Double Pull - 2-way Separating Zipper Lengths
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Coil zipper is more flexible and smoother running than tooth zippers.
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LacesCost of Laces depend on fabric and design of laces
Beaded Lace, Chemical Lace, Cotton Lace, CrocheDecorative Lace, Designer Laces, Elastic Laces, EmbLaces, Fancy Border, Fancy Laces, Garment Laces, H
Lace, Lycra Lace, Nylon Laces, Rayon Lace, Velvet LLace, Zari Laces
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Button Buttons can be fascinating, functional, and fashionable.
Costs affected factors Materials, sizes, shapes, colors, anddesigns.
Material- plastic buttons, natural materials like bone, horn,ivory, shell, vegetable ivory, wood and synthetic materialssuch as celluloid, glass, metal and bakelite.
Wooden Button- to stain, seal and polish wooden buttons.
Coconut Buttons-Light, strong and rustic.
ShellButtons - Delicate and elegant
LeatherButtons - Soft and durable,
Corozo Buttons - 100% natural vegetable material madefrom the nut of a palm tree, highly durable and crackresistant.
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Clothing LabelClothing labels are of various types of materials, both synthetic and natura
The yarns used in synthetic fibers are gauged in terms of thickness of denier
DTEX. Some yarns have a thicker gauge than others.
Woven Labels.
Embroidered Labels.
Leather Labels.
PVC/Rubber Labels.
Printed Labels
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Snap FastenersUse of plastic snap fasteners are rapidly increasing for baby clothing and oth
garments.
Material use : polyester
Use of recycle ecology type snapssofter touch to skin
No fear of nickel allergy
Electric conductivity proof
Free from rust
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Interlining
Woven Interliningsused in light weight fabrics
Knitted Interliningsused in knit garments with stretchab
Non-woven Interlines100% polyamide products with ultcoating to heavier blends
Water Repellent Interlines
Thermal bonded non-woven and circular knits
Embroidery backings
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Types Fiber Content Uses
Soft Stretch Baby
Elastic
67% Acetate 33% Rubber For Waistbands, Sleeves, Neck
Bands.
Knit Polyester- 56% Polyester 44% Rubber Good For Wash/Wear Garmen
Well As Garments That Must Be
Polyester Waistband - 91% Polyester 09% Rubber Soft Stretch And Texture Make
Wear Against Skin.
Polyester Lingerie 57% Polyester 43% Rubber For Panties, Slips, And Body Suit
Heavy Stretch: 65% polyester 35% rubber Good for using as an "exposedgathered skirt or pants.
Cotton Braided: 73% cotton 27% rubber Good for swimwear. For waistb
necklines, and leg bands.
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