Flat Knitting - Chapter 7

BASIC WEFT KNIT BASIC WEFT KNIT STRUCTURESSTRUCTURES

BASIC WEFT KNIT STRUCTURESBASIC WEFT KNIT STRUCTURES

Basic weft knit structure

Plain Single Jersey

Rib Interlock Purl

Double Jersey

Characteristics of Single Jersey

• Most simplest & most widely used

• “V” shaped loop appearance on technical face side & “semi-

circular” loops on technical back side

• Face side is smoother than back side

• The unrelaxed plain knit fabric will curl at the top and bottom

• Production rate is very high & cost is low (due to m/c simplicity

– capital cost is low)

Characteristics of Rib Fabric

• The rib fabric appearance shows “vertical cords”

• Can be symmetrical (1x1 rib, 2x2 rib etc.) or assymetrical

– Symmetrical have balanced structure i.e appearance is same on both sides of

the fabric

• Ribs are heavier & thicker than the single jersey with similar gauge

• Rib requires knitting machine with two beds and with two set of

needles

Characteristics of Rib Fabric

• The fabric does not curl at the edges due to its balance structure

• Mostly used for outwear. Structure is more opaque than jersey

and hence can be used for swimwear.

Characteristics of Interlock Fabric

• Interlock is the interlocking of two 1x1 rib

• The fabric looks like a plain knit jersey fabric from both the

sides

– Simple interlock is therefore reversible as the rib one

• The fabric is less extensible than either single jersey or rib (due

to interlocking structure)

• The structure do not curl at the edges

Characteristics of Interlock Fabric

• The structure is thicker, stronger and less elastic so cutting &

sewing are easier

• It unroves from the course knitted the last

• Productivity is less

• Fabric is costlier

Characteristics of Purl Fabric• It is reversible in appearance

• Thickness is theoretically double to plain jersey

• Like jersey knit, it can be unroved from either end

• Does not curl at edges

• More extensible in the lengthways

• Least Used

• Speed of m/c and production is much less compared to other

weft knit fabrics

REPRESENTATION OF REPRESENTATION OF KNIT STRUCTUREKNIT STRUCTURE

Knit Structure Representation

Diagrammatic representation Graphical Representation

Diagrammatical RepresentationDiagrammatical Representation

Diagrammatical RepresentationDiagrammatical Representation

Knit Stitch

Purl Stitch

Tuck Stitch

Miss Stitch

Graphical RepresentationGraphical Representation

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Knit Stitch

Purl Stitch

Tuck Stitch

Miss Stitch