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HISTORY OF INDIAN COSTUMESSATAVAHANA PERIOD
(200 B.C-A.D 250)
BY, SMITHA
B.Sc 1st Year
INTRODUCTION
• Established in Deccan and endured for 460
years.
• Based from Dharanikota and Amaravati in
Andhra Pradesh to Junnar (Pune) and
Prathisthan (Paithan) in Maharashtra.
• The Early Satavahanas ruled Andhra and
present Telangana regions
• They were one of the first Indian state to
issue coins struck with their rulers embossed.
• Early people of Deccan were a hybrid race, a
mixture of aboriginal Dravidians and
Scythians, Parthian, Greeks, Buddhism and
Mauryan culture.
POLITICAL CONDITION
• The hereditary monarchy based on Military-cum-Feudal
Bureaucracy was the political system of Satavahanas.
• Other officials were 'Mahamatra' (in charge of religious fares),
'Bhandagarika' (Superintendent of stores), 'Husinik' (Treasurer),
'Mahasenadipate (Commander-in-chief of forces).
• The king was claiming 1/6th of the produce of tax wage
SOCIAL CONDITIONS
• Chaturvarna system- division of people into
Brahmins, Kshatriyas, Vaisyas and Sudras
• Varnasankara (marriages outside varna).
• There were also tribes outside Aryan Varma system
and people where known according to their
profession Halika (cultivator), Kolika (weaver), Sethi
(Merchant)," Gadhika (druggist), etc.
• Polygamy prevailed in the society, and patriarchal
Joint family system was prevalent.
SOCIAL CONDITIONS
• Society was divided into four classes.
ROYAL LIFE
• They followed 6 emblems of royal patronage
– Ushniha (turban), pair of flywhisks, umbrella,
sword, sandles and the royal standards.
– Umbrella was white and gold for kings and nobles,
carried by Chattradhara (umbrella carrier).
– Flywhisks were made of yak tails with gold
handles, waved by Chauri bareers.
– Khagavahni- Female attendant carried sword on
her shoulder.
– Thronged sandals were made out of boar skin.
ATTENDANTS
CHATTRADHARA
COSTUMES OF EARLY SATAVAHANA PERIOD
• MEN’S COSTUME
– KING AND COURTIERS: wore the indigenous antariya with decorative
kayabandh tied in different styles and knots. Ushnisa was always worn and
crown was used when necessary.
– CIVILIANS: Tunics, Kancuka in stripes or behive design were worn, along
with thick kayabandh around the waist.
• Kancuka: Were mid-high length with short sleeves and opening on the left
side or in front with V or round shaped neck lines
– KING’S during hunting also wore tunic which had no discrenibel opening at
the neck along with an elaborate turban ushnisa.
– HUNTER’S: In addition to this also wore two-bar type sandals with a strap for
buckling
WOMEN’S COSTUMES
• Women’s costumes had an influence of foreign
invaders.
• ATTENDANTS- Wore transparent long antariyas
with loose kayabandhs tied in a knot at the center
along with beautiful ornaments.
• CIVILIANS-Their changed costumes included
short antariyas, large uttariyas with elaborate
borders covering their head and back.
HAIRSTYLE AND HEAD GEAR
• Jungle women wore rolls and
headbands with peacock feathers.
• Village women and commoners
wore their hair in a simple knot at
the nape covered by a large
uttariya.
• Court attendants and women of the
richer class wore- topknot on the
right side with a loop of flower
suspended in a plait.
HEADGEAR- MEN
• Worn intertwined with lengths of
clot to from an ushnisa in a
variety of ways.
• Most common style of top know
covered with a cloth of the
turban.
• This knot could be at center front
ovet the forehead in a ‘counch-
shell’ shape
JEWELLERY
• Indigenous Men’s jewellery
consisted of lambanam, earrings,
and a pair of kangan and baju
band ,
• Women’s wore large number of
bangles made of conch or ivory,
disc type earrings, the lambanam,
and tikka.
• Women attendants wore mekhala.
MILITARY COSTUME
• Soldiers wore short-sleeved
tunics, with elaborate headgear
consisting of either a turban with
top knot, chin band and ear flaps,
or two top knots with a turban.
• They were equipped with axes
and bows and arrows or carried
sickles.
SOLDIER
LATE SATAVAHANA COSTUME (100 B.C-A.D 250)
• Antariya, Uttariya and Kayabandh was the three main costumes wore by
both men and women.
• MEN’S COSTUME
– ANTARIYA: Usually transperent
• Te nivi bandha knot was used to tie the antrariya at the waist
– UTTARIYA: It was usually white made out of cotton or silk. At times it was dyed
and embroidered also.
• It was worn in different styles- across the back and over both shoulders, thrown over
the chest or in kachcha fashion.
– KAYABANDH: Tied in bow shaped knot to support anatriya
• Vethaka: Simple sash form of Kayabandh.
MEN’S COSTUME CONTD…
• Attendents, guard at king’s palace wore stitched shirt
like foreign garment called KANCHUKA.
• The YAJNOPAVATI THREAD evolved in this era, which
was derived from uttariya which was draped over left
shoulder and under right arm in the UPAVITA FASHION.
• YAJNOPAVITI THREAD- consist of 3 cotton threads each
of 9 twisted strands- Brahmins, Hemp- Kshatariya,
Wool- Vaishya.
WOMEN’S COSTUME
• ANTARIYA- Made of almost transparent cloth and worn very tight
and clinging to body.
• UTTRARIYA- Usually white at times with bright colors and
embroidered in case of royal costume and worn in Kachcha style.
• KAYABANDH- Bow shaped to support antariya.
– Patika made of lat ribbon-shaped pieces of cloth(silk)
– Kalabuka- girdle made of many strips plaited together.
– Mauraja- Had a drum headed knots at the ends.
• Attendants in the women’s apartments in the palace wore the
short kanchuka with an indigenous antariya/ when calf-length it
was worn with kayabandh and uttariya
HEADGEAR AND HAIRSTYLE-MEN
• USHNISA- was generally wrapped around 3 times covering the top knot of
hair which was usually white or dyed with ornamental gold strips.
• KIRITA- a short cylindrical cap studded with gems and ornamented with
designs.
• MAULIBANDHA- an elaborate turban wound decorated with strings of pearls
wreaths.
• HAIRSTYLE:
– Tied the hair in large topknot at center front covered with turban jewelled
to hold the turban in place.
– At time the top knot could be Pear-shaped .
– The hair could also be worn in one or two topknots, one loop and one top
knot.
– Short hair parted in the middle prevailed among civilians
KING KING AS HUNTERATTENDENT AT
COURTDWARAPALAKA
MEN’S COSTUMES
HEADGEAR-WOMEN
• Wore their hair in several ways
– Plait, praveni at the back, decorated with jeweled strips and tassels.
– Coil with five delicate plaits dangling from it.
– Looped closed to the head in an elongated knot at the back of the head down at
the nape decorated with small fillet of flowers around it or a short garland of
flower dangling from it.
– KABARIBANDHA- hair worn as a simple not.
– DHAMMILIA- Elobrate dressing of hair with flowers, pearls and jewels- most
admired.
• HEADGEAR:
– CHUDAMANI-Lotus-shaped jewel with its petals made of pearls and precious
stones normally worn in the center of knotted hair.
– MAKARIKA-Fish-crocodile shaped worn at the parting of hair
JEWELLERY
• Strands of pearls were main in all forms of jewellery.• Both men and women wore earrings, bracelets, armlets and necklaces.• EARRINGS
– KUNDALA- Coil shaped earring– TALAPATRA- small strip of ivory or gold palm leaf shaped rolled and
studded with a gem stone.– KANAKA-KAMALA- full blown lotus design studded with ruby worn along
with a dangler called JIMIKI• NECKLACES
– HARA- Strings of pearls.– EKAVALI- Single string of pearls– YASHTI- A necklace of gems and gold beads with larger central bead– PHALAKA- Slab-like gems – PHALAKA HARA- Several strings of pearls held together by phalakas– KANTA- Shorter form of necklace– NIKSHA- Gold coin strung necklace with silk or plaited gold cord.– MANGAMALAI- Mango shaped pieces of gold or gold set with gems strung
necklace
JEWELLERY CONTD..
• MUKTAYAJNOPAVITA- Yajnopavita made of pearls.
• BRACELETS
– VALAYA- Bracelet made our of solid gold set with precious stones
– PHALAKAVALAYA- Slab like gems set into bracelets.
• ARMLETS- snake, straight edge, angular top edge
• MEKHALA-Jewelled girdles of one or many strings.
• Types- tinkling Kanci with bells, linked chain with pearls
• ANKLETS
– MANJIRA- Loose hollow and light coiling along with gems inside the hollow that
provided the tinkling sound.
– NUPURA-Plain with suspended tinkling bells.
– TULAKOTI- Heavier looking coiling with tow ends enlarged at meeting point
WOMEN’S COSTUMES
ATTENDANT VILLAGE WOMEN
COURTIER
RELIGIOUS PERSON
MILITARY COSTUME
• ANDHRA SOLDIERS
– Wore an short antariya which was tucked in.
– Cloth sash was either tied around the waist or crossed at the tchest for protection
– Occasionally wore earrings and simple jewels.
• FOREIGN SOLDIERS
– Wore heavy tunic with ruched sleeves- reached knees along with churidar form of
trousers, helmet and earflaps.
– Wide sash was worn on the waist
• Equipment- sword, shield, bow, axe and spear
– SWORD- Either curved and could have a sharp edge on one or both sides.Handles were
of ivory and hilts of precious metal encrusted jewels.
– SHIELD- Rectangular to protect the body.
– BOW- Made of wood or horn, bow string- iron, bone, wood and had shafts of feather
affixed in poison.
TEXTILES AND DYES
• Coarse and fine varieties of cotton
were available.
• A very cheap material made of hemp
was worn by weavers and laborers
• Wool was woven into chaddars
ASSIGNMENT
• Make a project on Satavahana period
with illustrations displaying the
people main area of design and
stylization
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