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HAIR STYLING ENCAPSULATIONSKIN CARE SUN CARE ORAL CAREHAIR CARE
Vida-Care Universal Sunscreen Blends: The secret to adding UV protection to cosmetic products
Mandeesh Suman
Technical and Sales Manager
28th September 2016
HAIR STYLING ENCAPSULATIONSKIN CARE SUN CARE ORAL CAREHAIR CARE
• UK company, etablished in 1960
• Family business, remains privately owned
• Manufacturing in UK,Far East & US
• Owns IPR with R&D programs globally
• Annualised Sales Turnover: USD 50 million
Lambson History and Business
HAIR STYLING ENCAPSULATIONSKIN CARE SUN CARE ORAL CAREHAIR CARE
Sun Protection – Why is it important?
Source: Canadean’s global consumer survey, 2014
HAIR STYLING ENCAPSULATIONSKIN CARE SUN CARE ORAL CAREHAIR CARE
Sun Protection Trends and Influences
HAIR STYLING ENCAPSULATIONSKIN CARE SUN CARE ORAL CAREHAIR CARE
Sun Protection
Suncare benefits are now widespread across the beauty and personal care categories
Source: Canadean’s Product Launch Analytics; Clinique website
HAIR STYLING ENCAPSULATIONSKIN CARE SUN CARE ORAL CAREHAIR CARE
What are the formulation challenges when adding UV protection to cosmetic products?
• Broad-spectrum protection
• Photo-stability
• Global regulatory challenges
• Solubility of sunscreens in formulations
• Interactions with ingredients
• Skin-feel
• Rheological considerations
• Media comments
• Ease of use
• Cost effectiveness
HAIR STYLING ENCAPSULATIONSKIN CARE SUN CARE ORAL CAREHAIR CARE
Vida-Care SP Blends (USB’s)• Sunscreen systems
• Lambson’s unique Universal Sunscreen Blends (USB): ready made and easy to formulate systems:
– Offer formulation flexibility
– Can be used in a wide range of formulations
– USB-25: Easily achieve up to SPF 25 in body care
– USB-30F: Better suited to facial care. Free-from EHMC (Vida-Care SP1) and BP-3 (Vida-Care SP3)
– USB-50+ : For High SPF systems, easily formulated into creams, lotions, sprays etc., with no requirement for pre-dispersion or heating, photostable, and high efficiency
HAIR STYLING ENCAPSULATIONSKIN CARE SUN CARE ORAL CAREHAIR CARE
INCI name: Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Benzophenone-3, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate; Ethylhexyl Salicylate, C 12-13 Alkyl Lactate (Globally Approved)
Physical Properties:Appearance: Pale yellow liquidSpecific Gravity (25°C) 1.068 g/mlRefractive Index (25°C) 1.550Colour (Gardner) 3-4
Inclusion level In-vitro SPF range UVA PF range c range UVA Permitted
6 6-10 4.5-6.5 371-376 Yes
10 10-15 7.5-11.2 372-378 Yes
15 15-20 11.3-13.5 373-379 Yes
20 20-25 14.2-15.9 374-380 Yes
25 23-30 17.2-19.8 376-381 Yes
Vida-Care USB 25 – Globally approved
HAIR STYLING ENCAPSULATIONSKIN CARE SUN CARE ORAL CAREHAIR CARE
Phase Ingredient INCI Name % w/w Supplier
A Deionised water Disodium EDTA Vida-Care Carbomer CG Glycerin
Aqua Disodium EDTA Carbomer Glycerin
65.45 0.05 0.50 3.00
Lambson Ltd
B Dermol 816 Vida-Care USB 25 Vida-Care AVP 20 Sabowax FL 65K Sabowax ST-21 Cetearyl Alcohol 65% Preserve 430
Ethylhexyl Palmitate Octocrylene (&) Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl methane (&) Benzophenone-3 (&) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (&) Ethylhexyl VP/Eicosene Copolymer Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate Steareth-21 Cetearyl Alcohol Phenoxyethanol (&) Methylparaben (&) Ethylparaben (&) Propylparaben (&) Butylparaben
5.00 15.00 1.00 2.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
Also/Lehvoss Lambson Ltd Lambson Ltd Kemcare Kemcare A & E Connock Kemcare
C AMP Ultrapure 2000 Deionised water
Aminomethylpropanol Aqua
0.50 0.50
Angus/Banner
D Vida-Caps 1021 Vida-Caps 1022 Vida-Caps 1039 Vida-Caps 1001
Vida-Caps custom made, please contact your Lambson representative for full details. Capsule wall: Chitosan (vegetal) & Acacia gum Internal phase: Various
1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
Lambson Ltd Lambson Ltd Lambson Ltd Lambson Ltd
Total 100.00
Rainbow Release Water Resistant sun cream SPF 15+ UVA
HAIR STYLING ENCAPSULATIONSKIN CARE SUN CARE ORAL CAREHAIR CARE
INCI Name: Octocrylene; Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane; Ethylhexyl Triazone; Homosalate; Diethylhexyl MalateFree-from Cinnamate and Benzophenone it is suitable for facial skin-care at use levels up to 30%
Physical Properties:Appearance: Pale yellow liquidSpecific Gravity (25°C) 1.041 g/mlRefractive Index (25°C) 1.542Colour (Gardner) 3-4
Vida-Care USB 30F
Inclusion level In-vitro SPF UVA PF c range UVA Permitted
6 6 4.5 371-376 Yes
10 10 7.5 372-378 Yes
15 15 10 373-379 Yes
20 20 15 374-380 Yes
25 25 18 376-381 Yes
30 30 22 376-381 Yes
HAIR STYLING ENCAPSULATIONSKIN CARE SUN CARE ORAL CAREHAIR CARE
Phase Ingredient INCI Name % w/w Supplier
A Deionised water Glycerin Na2 EDTA Vida-Care Carbomer CG
Aqua Glycerin Disodium EDTA Carbomer
54.45 3.00 0.05 0.50
Lambson Ltd
B Ceraphyl 368 Vida-Care AVP-20 Vida-Care USB 30F Sabowax FL 65K Sabowax ST-21 Cetearyl Alcohol Preserve 430
Ethylhexyl Palmitate VP/Eicosene Copolymer Diethylhexyl Malate (&) Octocrylene (&) Homosalate (&) Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl methane (&) Ethylhexyl Triazone Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate Steareth-21 Cetearyl Alcohol Phenoxyethanol (&) Methylparaben (&) Ethylparaben (&) Propylparaben (&) Butylparaben
5.00 1.00 30.00 2.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
ASI Lambson Ltd Lambson Ltd Kemcare Kemcare A & E Connock Kemcare
C AMP Ultra PC 2000 Deionised water
Aminomethylpropanol Aqua
0.50 0.50
DOW Chemicals
Total 100.00
Simple SPF 30 Cream with UVA protection
HAIR STYLING ENCAPSULATIONSKIN CARE SUN CARE ORAL CAREHAIR CARE
Vida-Care USB 50+INCI Name: Diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexylbenzoate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Diisopropyl Adipate
Exceptionally photostable blend provides the full range of SPF values permitted in EU while maintaining the UVA absorbance required to claim broad-spectrum protection
Physical Properties:Appearance: Viscous yellow liquidSpecific Gravity (25°C) 1.040 g/mlRefractive Index (25°C) 1.550Colour (Gardner) <8
Most effective when used in emulsions, in anhydrous formulations use of polar solvents is strongly recommended to maintain critical wavelength.Typically SPF = ½ of the dose rate (e.g. 10% addition = SPF 20) but this is highly dependant on other formulation ingredients.
HAIR STYLING ENCAPSULATIONSKIN CARE SUN CARE ORAL CAREHAIR CARE
Phase Ingredient INCI Name % w/w Supplier
A Ethanol Dermol CL Dermol DOM Propylene Glycol Vida-Care USB 50+ Vida-Care C VA37E
Alcohol Denat Cetyl Lactate Diethylhexyl Malate Propylene Glycol Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (&) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (&) Octocrylene (&) Ethylhexyl Triazone (&) Di-C12-C13 Alkyl Malate (&) Ethylhexyl Salicylate (&)Diisopropyl Adipate VP/VA Copolymer
35.00 7.00 10.00 5.00 35.00 8.00
Alzo Alzo Lambson Ltd Lambson Ltd
Total 100.00
Scalp Protection & Styling Spray 50+
HAIR STYLING ENCAPSULATIONSKIN CARE SUN CARE ORAL CAREHAIR CARE
Vida-Care Sunscreen Blends (USB’s) –Applications
Formats available USB 25 USB 30F USB 50+
Tanning Oil
Cream
Lotion
Sprayable lotion
Anhydrous Stick
Clear Spray/mist
Beauty Balms
Colour Cosmetics
HAIR STYLING ENCAPSULATIONSKIN CARE SUN CARE ORAL CAREHAIR CARE
Vida-Care Sunscreen Blends (USB’s) –Global Use Limits
Maximum Permitted Use level
Trade Name INCI declaration EU USA Australia Mercosur Japan ASEAN
Vida-Care USB 25
Octocrylene (&) Butyl
Methoxydibenzoylmethane, (&)
Benzophenone-3 (&) Ethylhexyl
Methoxycinnamate (&) Ethylhexyl Salicylate
(&) C12-13 Alkyl Lactate
25% 15% 25% 25% 25% 25%
Vida-Care USB 30F
Diethylhexyl Malate (&) Octocrylene (&)
Homosalate (&) Butyl
Methoxydibenzoylmethane (&) Ethylhexyl
Triazone
30% N/A 30% 30% 37.5% 30%
Vida-Care USB 50+
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl
Benzoate (&) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
(&) Octocrylene (&) Ethylhexyl Triazone (&)
Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate (&) Ethylhexyl
Salicylate (&) Diisopropyl Adipate
38% N/A 38% 38% 38% 38%
HAIR STYLING ENCAPSULATIONSKIN CARE SUN CARE ORAL CAREHAIR CARE
Advantages of using Vida-Care USB’s Easy to formulate with
Taking the guesswork out for SPF
Stable liquid formulations that can be formulated directly into a variety of creams, lotions and sprays
Reduces the requirements for each product to have a specifically designed blend of actives.
Ready‐to‐go sunscreen formulations
Provides SPF benefits to daily use cosmetic formulations, such as moisturizers, lipsticks and foundations.
Saves bench time in formulations
Saves quantity time through reduced intake testing
Saves production time through fewer addition steps
Reduced need for premixing, heating and/or cooling; and number of raw materials
HAIR STYLING ENCAPSULATIONSKIN CARE SUN CARE ORAL CAREHAIR CARE
The Lambson AdvantageAccess to high calibre teams with vast industry expertise
Highly adaptable and flexible approach
Innovative problem solving
New product development
Formulation solutions including efficacy testing and claims support
Custom encapsulation
Consultancy services
UK Headquarters: Clifford House, York Road, Wetherby, West Yorkshire, LS22 7NS
Tel: +44 (0) 1937 840162 Fax: +44 (0)1937 840151
Personal Care Division and Encapsulation Technologies: 6 Mead Lane, Farnham, Surrey, GU9 7DY
Tel: +44 (0) 1252 739760 Fax: +44 (0)1252 739769
www.lambson.com
Stand 520
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