Adventures in Evolution (Nov 11 Caltech presentation)

First female ascent of the Evolution Traverse

Adventures in Evolution

The Mystique

How we got spanked on Evolution Traverse (Shay of pullharder.org, 2007)

“16 hours car-to-car; 22 miles; peaks reached: 0/9” (Warren C and Dave J, 2009)

“Cycling through 3 partners over 3 attempts…” (Ryan H in reference to Josh G, 2011)

“The best traverse I have done.” (Peter Croft in The Good, The Great and the Awesome; FA on attempt #3)

17 documented successful ascents prior to my 2011 attempt (all by men)

The Route

• 5.9, VI

• 10 mile approach over Lamark Col (3,600 ft of gain and 1,600 ft of descent)

• 8 mile ridge traverse over nine 13K ft peaks

• ~16 mile hike out

The Route

• 5.9, VI

• 10 mile approach over Lamark Col (3,600 ft of gain and 1,600 ft of descent)

• 8 mile ridge traverse over nine 13K ft peaks

• ~16 mile hike out

Thunderbolt to Sill(5.9, IV)

• 10 mile approach with 5,200 ft of gain (Glacier Lodge start/end)

• ~1.6 mile ridge traverse over five 14K ft peaks

• ~9 mile hike out

My Background

Climbing Been climbing on/off since the mid-90s Since ~2006 increased focus on trad/alpine climbing Comfortable leading 5.10 trad Enjoy exposure, soloing, and mega days

Work Have a full-time job at a local search company in

Glendale, but fortunate to work remotely

The Prep

First (half-assed) attempt in Sep 2010 Base camp support from Jascha Bailed before the Mendel summit due to (chronic) hip flexor

issues Major focus on the Aug 2011 attempt

Made the decision to do the traverse alone and unsupported Ton of climbing (trad, sport, bouldering, alpine soloing) with

a focus on alpine speed and endurance Planning & logistics (balancing weight and comfort/safety) PT

The Prep

Surprisingly early start to the alpine season given the winter’s record snowfall

N Ridge of Lone Pine Peak (5.5), 30 May

The Prep

Spent much time on Temple Crag to avoid sloggy conditions

Moon Goddess Arete (5.8)

The Prep

Sun Ribbon (5.10a) | Galey | Sill traverse

The Prep

Last minute Evolution crux recon and bivy gear stash 1.5 weeks prior

The Approach

Darwin and Mendel from Lamark Col

The Approach

Darwin Canyon 2010 Darwin Canyon 2011

The Approach

Base camp at Darwin Benches

Darwin Canyon

DarwinBenches

The Climb

13,360 from Darwin Benches

Darwin CanyonDarwinBenches

The Climb

Looking into Evolution Basin fromthe ridgeline on 13,360

Darwin Canyon

DarwinBenches

The Climb

Self portrait en route to 13,360

Darwin Canyon

DarwinBenches

Mendel from the 13,360 summit (5.6)

The Climb

headwall

The Climb

Ridge traverse to Mendel

The Climb

Mendel headwall (~25 ft, not 5.9)

The Climb

Darwin from Mendel

The Climb

Picket fence to Darwin (5.8)

The Climb

Darwin summit block

The Climb

Chimney section off the Darwin summit (5.9)

The Climb

More down-climbing off the Darwin summit

The Climb

Traverse to 13,332 (5.9)

The Climb

Golden slab (photo from recon)

The Climb

Bivy #1 with the evening’s entertainment, This American Life

The Climb

13,332 summit

The Climb

Haeckel from 13,332 (class 3)

The Climb

Wallace from just below the Haeckel summit (aka the spot where Emma saved my ass with an apple).

The Climb

Huxley, the final obstacle (~5.7)

The Climb

The last summit!

The Descent

Hike back on the JMT through Evolution Basin

The Descent

First real food in 2.5 days

Darwin CanyonDarwin Benches

Summary

• ~22.5 hours of climbing over 2.1 days

Tips

Go as light as you can taking into consideration your limits and conditions.

Be efficient at route-finding, moving quickly unroped over 4th and easy 5th class terrain, and rope/gear management if you plan to use them.

Consider your water options (snow melt versus dropping down 500’ to Haeckel Col).

Acclimate. A full day at the Darwin Benches helps significantly especially if you are a flatlander.

Note to self: Have your food plan perfected and make sure your camera is fully functional.

Have fun. It’s an amazing climb no matter how far you get.

What’s Next?

I don’t know where I’m going from here, but I promise it won’t be boring.

- David Bowie

What’s Next?

I don’t know where I’m going from here, but I promise it won’t be boring.

- David Bowie

Questions | Beta

user name fossana on summitpost and mountainproject

Gear List

80’ of 7mm Mammut Pro Cord – did 1 pack haul, 1 pack lower and 1 rap 3 nuts (sm, med, lg) – didn’t use ATC guide / locker Camp XLH 95 harness 40’ 9/16” tubular webbing – way too much Lightest pair of climbing shoes I could find at the Gear Exchange Western Mountaineering VersaLite (10 degree bag) 2L MSR Dromedary bag (for melting snow) + 100 oz hydration bladder Black Diamond Speed 40 pack Montrail CTC approach shoes Camp Corsa ice axe (left this at Lamark Col on the hike in) Cheap closed cell foam pad cut down to ½ length and minimal width* Rab Storm Bivi* * Cached on recon

More Eye Candy | TRs

Josh Garrison’s video covering 3 attempts: http://vimeo.com/15555114

Patituccis’ blog: http://dolomitesport.com/2009/12/climbing-the-sierra-nevadas-evolution-traverse/

Alan Cattabriga’s TR: http://neice.com/2010/09/the-evolution-traverse/

My TR: http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Evolution-Traverse-How-I-Owe-it-All-to-an-Apple/t11143n.html

Many Thanks To

the following people for beta, encouragement, company on recons/training climbs, and tolerating my obsessive ramblings:

Alan C, Vic L, Peter C, Mike C, Ben H, Jason L, Ian C-B, Tricia L, Matt S, Tai D, Em H, Todd T, Joe L, Lisa R, Wills Y, Jascha L, Joan P, Miguel F, Sandra S, Janel C, Jessie M, Yoshiko and Jim M, Nathan W, Laura M

and especially Emma