Solesphere Silicas for Cosmetic & Personal Care Products

AGC Chemicals Americas, Inc. Your Global Source for Fine Silica Gels Case Studies: Solesphere™ vs. Other Microspheres for the Personal Care Market October 2013

Introduction and Background

AGC Chemicals is leading producer of fine silica gels for use as ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products. Its Solesphere™ products are widely used to provide smooth texture and soft-focus, or light diffraction properties. Also, to adsorb skin oils and perspiration. These three (3) studies demonstrate this in a quantitative way. Detailed, prototypical, oil-in-water (O/W) formulations are used. Comparison of texture and soft-focus effects, relative to other petrochemical based micro-spherical materials, is made. Summary of results are that, Solesphere™ H-121 is most effective to impart smooth textures and soft-focus effects, across many oil formulations and relative to other petrochemical based micro-spherical materials.

Three Studies Completed

AGC micro-spherical silica: Solesphere™H-121 1. Oil-in-water (O/W) skin care formulations:

A.  Measure of smoothness of application B.  Measure of soft focus: matte effect

2. Comparison to other petrochemical beads

3. Using Silicone elastomer with Solesphere™ H-121

STUDY #1

Solesphere™ H-121 Performance in Oil in Water

(O/W) Skin Care Formulations

Study #1: O/W Sample Formulation

COMPONENT (wt-%)

A

Water Up to 100

Pypus cydonia seeds extract 5.0

Carboxyl Vinyl Polymer 2% dispersed 10.0

Phenoxy ethanol 0.5

B

Hydrogenated lecithin 0.2

Muriatic acid poly-glycerin-10 1.0

Ceteallyl alcohol 1.5

Glyceryl Stearate 1.0

Stearic acid 0.5

Palmitic acid cetyl 0.8

Mineral oil 70cs 5.0 ~ 12.5

Dimethicone(100cs) 0.3

Glycerin 3.0

C Sodium hydroxide 5% water solution 5% 0.5

D Solesphere™, H-121 0 ~ 3.0

Propanediol 6.0

Order of Addition/ Process Sequence

A: Main aqueous phase

B: Oil phase emulsion

C: Neutral- ization

D: Powder Cooling 40°C

Cooling 30°C

Evaluation of Properties: O/W Skincare Formulations

•  Properties of H-121, by content of silica, in O/W skincare formulation: Oil type: Mineral oil(70cs) = 10% Powder： H-121 silica = 0% Control, 1%, 2%, and 3%

Evaluation: A. Smooth Texture B. Degree of Soft Focus

•  Properties of H-121, by content of oil

Oil type： Mineral(70cs) = 5%, 7.5%, 10%, 12.5% Powder: H-121 silica = 3%

Evaluation A. Smooth Texture B. Degree of Soft Focus

H-121 O/W Property Evaluation: Smooth Texture

0.15

0.17

0.19

0.21

0.23

0.25

0 1 2 3 Content of H-121, %

Aver

age

Fric

tiona

l Coe

ffici

ent (

MIU）

Smooth Texture

Bad

Good

H-121 O/W Property Evaluation: Soft Focus  

20

24

28

32

36

40

6 6.5 7 7.5 8

Diff

use

Tran

smitt

ance／

Tota

l Lig

ht T

rans

mitt

ance×1

00

Good

Soft focus

Bad

Matte　　　　　　Gloss Glossiness

3% 2%

1%

Control

H-121 by content

H-121 By Oil Content Property Evaluation: Smooth Texture

0.15 0.17 0.19 0.21 0.23 0.25 0.27 0.29

4 6 8 10 12 14

H-121

Control

Mineral Oil Content (%)

Aver

age

Fric

tiona

l Coe

ffici

ent (

MIU

)

Smooth Texture

Bad

Good

H-121 By Oil Content Property Evaluation: Soft Focus

20 25 30 35 40 45

50

4 5 6 7 8 9 10

H-121

Control

By oil content %

Diff

use

Tran

smitt

ance／

Tota

l Lig

ht T

rans

mitt

ance×1

00

Soft focus

Good

Bad

Matte　　　　 Gloss

Glossiness

7.5%

10% 5% 12.5%

12.5% 10% 7.5% 5%

Summary: Solesphere H-121 O/W Study #1

•  Data show for skincare and foundations:

–  Improves smooth texture properties by 20% and more –  Improves soft focus by approximately 30% –  Long lasting effect by absorbing sebum and perspiration

STUDY #2

Solesphere™ H-121 Performance Comparison to Other Petrochemical-based

Microspheres

Evaluation of Properties: Petrochemical-Based Microspheres

•  Oil Content, 10% of either: a) Triethyl hexanonin (refractive index (R.I.) 1.445) b) Mineral oil 70cs (R.I. 1.4624) c) Phenyl trimethicone (R.I.1.498)

•  Powder Content, 3% of either: a) Solesphere™ H-121 fine silica b) Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) (7µm) c) Silicone Resin (5µm) d) Nylon-12 (10µm)

•  Evaluation Items: a) Smooth Texture b) Degree of Soft Focus

Study #2: Sample Formulation

COMPONENT (wt-%)

A

Water Up to 100

Pypus cydonia seeds extract 5.0

Carboxyl Vinyl Polymer 2% dispersed 10.0

Phenoxy ethanol 0.5

B

Hydrogenated lecithin 0.2

Muriatic acid poly-glycerin-10 1.0

Ceteallyl alcohol 1.5

Glyceryl Stearate 1.0

Stearic acid 0.5

Palmitic acid cetyl 0.8

Oil phase 10.0

Dimethicone(100cs) 0.3

Glycerin 3.0

C Sodium hydroxide 5% water solution 5% 0.5

D Powder 3.0

Propanediol 6.0

Order of Addition/ Process Sequence

A: Main aqueous phase

B: Oil phase emulsion

C: Neutral- ization

D: Powder Cooling 40°C

Cooling 30°C

H-121 Property Evaluation Other Microspheres: Smooth Texture

Mineral Oil (70cs) Triethyl hexanonin Phenyltrimethicone

Good

Bad Av

erag

e Fr

ictio

n co

effic

ient

(MIU

)

0.24

0.20 0.18

0.26

0.14

0.22

0.10 0.12

0.16

Sole

sphe

re™

H

-121

Silic

one

resi

n (5

µm)

Nyl

on-1

2 (1

0µm

)

PMM

A (7

µm)

Con

trol

Smooth Texture

H-121 Property Evaluation Other Microspheres: Soft Focus

0.8 0.9

1 1.1 1.2 1.3

1.4

0.6 0.7 0.8 0.9 1 1.1

Mineral Oil (70cs) Phenyltrimethicone

Haz

e R

atio

Soft focus

Good

Bad

Matte　　　　 Gloss

Gloss Ratio

PMMA

Silicone Resin

H-121/W

Nylon 12

PMMA

H-121

1.5 1.6

Triethylhexanonin

H-121

Silicone Resin

PMMA

Nylon 12

Nylon 12

Silicone Resin

Summary: Solesphere™H-121 Other Microspheres Study #2

•  Solesphere™ H-121 silica is a better component

for improving smooth texture and soft focus effect compared to other petrochemical-based microspheres.

•  When combined with each oil, Nylon powder is easily aggregated in each oil. –  More effective to combine Nylon and H-121 –  Improves slippery nature of Nylon

STUDY #3

Solesphere™ H-121 Fine Silica with Silicone

Elastomer

Evaluation of Properties: H-121 with Silicone Elastomer

Silicone Elastomer: General term for paste and a cross-linked silicate polymer Can be used to improve: •  Soft touch feel •  Matte effect

Evaluation of Texture: •  Friction variation •  Smooth texture •  Soft focus effect

Study #3: Sample Formulation COMPONENT (wt-%)

A

Water Up to 100 Up to 100

Pyrus Cydonia seed extract 2% dispersed liquid 5.0 5.0

Carboxyl Vinyl polymer 2% dispersed liquid 10.0 10.0

Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5

B

Hydrogenated lecithin 0.2 0.2

Muriatic acid poly glyceril-10 1.0 1.0

Ceteallyl alcohol 1.5 1.5

Glycerol Stearate 1.0 1.0

Stearic acid 0.5 0.5

Palmitic acid cetyl 0.8 0.8

(Dimethicone/Vinyl dimethicone) cross-polymer, Dimethicone 3.0 3.0

Dicapric acid neopentyl alcohol 5.0 5.0

Glycerin 3.0 3.0

C Sodium Hydroxide 5% water solution Na　5% 0.5 0.5

D Solesphere™ H-121, fine silica 3.0 ｰｰｰ Propandiol 6.0 6.0

Evaluation of Textural Properties: Friction Change"

50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95

100

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Friction times

(# of application strokes)

Fric

tion

ratio

(%)

H-121 Control

Reduce friction of silicone elastomer when drying on skin by combining Solesphere™ H-121, fine silica

Increase friction by evaporating volatile oils

and water.

Friction change (variation) of cream

Evaluation of Textural Properties: Smooth Texture

0.2

0.21

0.22

0.23

0.24

0.25

Control H-121

Aver

age

Fric

tiona

l coe

ffici

ent（

MIU

)

Smooth Texture

Bad

Good

Evaluation of Textural Properties: Soft Focus

25

30

35

40

45

50

3 3.5 4 4.5 5

Soft focus

Good

Bad Glossiness

Matte　　　　 Gloss

H-121

Control

Summary: Solesphere™H-121 with Silicone Elastomer Study #3  

By combining silicone elastomer with Solesphere™ H-121, both smooth and soft touchtextures are improved:

–  H-121: smooth texture –  Silicone elastomer: soft touch texture

In Conclusion Solesphere™ H-121 fine silica is effective to improve: •  Smooth texture •  Soft focus •  Long-lasting effect Additionally, Solesphere™ H-121 fine silica absorbs sebum and perspiration.    

AGC Chemicals Americas, Inc."

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