Denim Club Newsletter : Issue February 26, 2014

Latest Denim News & Updates from Across the Globe

Your Window To The World Of Denim

Newsletter

26 February 2014

www.denimclubindia.org

Levi Strauss testing 100% recycled water for jeans production

ONLY S/S campaign shows new denim range

Denim Trend : Return of The High-Waisted Jeans

From The Denim Directory

Jayantilal S. Gandhi and Co.

Featured

Arvind: New Production standards with KARL MAYER’s Indig-O-Matic

Uniqlo introduces selvedge for under £40

Isko Steps Out As Premium Denim Ingredient Brand

Premium Denim JeansMade in IndiaMade in IndiaMade in India

Coming Soon

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DENIM CLUB INDIAFebruary 2014 03

Denim Club : Your Window To The World Of Denim

Apparel - Sustainable Fashion

Michael Kobori, vice president of sustainability, Levi

Strauss told the Gaurdian that the company has created a process for using 100% recycled water in parts of its garment production.

The first of its kind initiative in the industry, the process is the result of a new water recycling standard – verified by third parties – that aims to reduce the impact of garment production on fresh water resources.

The process is being used in one of the brand's key Chinese factories, which bleaches, dyes and stone washes garments to achieve specific looks or feels.

The factory, located in southern China, and Levi Strauss worked together to engineer a system to pipe 100% recycled water into an industrial laundry machine used for finishing one of its jeans lines. Some 100,000 pairs have now been produced using the new technology.

Accodring to Kobori the company looked at Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) guidelines on reuse of water, as well as World Health Organization guidelines on managing waste water. "We then hired engineers from the textile industry to adapt these general guidelines into a set of standards that can be specifically used in our industry," he says.

The process is still in the testing phases, but the goal is to eventually use 100% recycled water to finish a broader range of Levi Strauss products at factories in other parts of the world, he says.

Different definitions of 100% recycledGilbert O'Neal, president of the Institute of Textile Technology was One of the third parties Levi Strauss asked to review the standard. O'Neal has worked with some of the largest textile and apparel makers in the world to help them use less water, and discharge less polluted water.

Levi Strauss testing 100% recycled water for jeans production

He says it's not impossible to finish a garment with recycled water, but that the term "100% recycled" can be misleading because saying a garment is made from 100% recycled water is not the same as saying that 100% of the waste water is recycled.

O'Neal says. "The garment industry is really good at establishing standards and talking a great game about sustainability, but the challenge is in the implementation."

And according to him there is no economically feasible way to recycle 100% of laundry machine water in a closed loop system and the same requires membrane technology which may triple or quadruple the cost of water treatment and most customers would not accept that cost.

O'Neal says Levi Strauss is probably using 100% recycled water, but isn't achieving "zero liquid discharge" – or zero waste water – the highest standard in industrial water recycling. However, the process likely does reduce the amount of effluent, or waste water, from the factory, he adds.

Levi Strauss, hopes the standard will help other apparel brands and retailers increase their use of recycled water and reduce industry effluent.

Source: www.karlmayer.com





Textiles - Sustainable Production

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Arvind: New Production standards with KARL MAYER�s Indig-O-Matic

At the end of 2012 Arvind Ltd., India's leading denim fabric manufacturer placed an order with Karl Mayer, the German textile for an Indig-O-Matic slasher/dyeing denim processing machine for its factory in Ahmedabad. The line became operational at Arvind in October 2013 and has since been operating efficiently.. Susheel Kaul, Managing Director explains “This new machine enables us to react flexibly and quickly to the changing demands of the market. It is also extremely productive.” Arvind has purchased Indig-O-Matic as a double-sheet version, enabling production to be almost doubled for the same space requirements. The dimensions of the dyeing zone are the same as in the conventional version and only the number of beam creels and beaming machines has to be doubled.

The new Indig-O-Matic operating in Arvind’s factory has dye baths which are equipped for nitrogen dyeing. Susheel Kaul explains that they can achieve dyeing results that they have never been able to achieve before. “There is also less environmental pollution with the nitrogen dyeing process. This aspect is becoming increasingly important here, too,” he went on to say.

KARL MAYER’s dyeing machine with integrated nitrogen technology celebrated its Indian premiere with Indig-O-Matic being installed and made operational at Arvind and the advantages of nitrogen technology can now also be exploited in India.

With use of nitrogen, the phase transition of the dye onto the fibre from a reduced to an oxidised

state into the ambient air can be slowed down. Since only liquid substances can be absorbed by the yarn, the reaction time of the dye can be extended. The dye is fixed better onto the cotton fibre and the core of the yarn remains undyed, as with the ring dyeing process typically used for denim.

This results in optimum dye and rubfastness for the same high weaving efficiency. The nitrogen technology also enables the amount of textile auxiliaries used in the machine to be reduced – which makes an important contribution to the increasingly important issues of environmental protection and sustainability.

KARL MAYER’s new Indig-O-Matic machine operating in Arvind’s factory is not only the first denim machine with nitrogen dyeing technology in India, it is also the first indigo dyeing machine that can process the fine yarns used to

produce cotton shirting. Here too, this innovative warp preparation technology is supporting the move away from using jeans fabric to produce typical, hard-wearing workwear and towards using it to produce more stylish denim fashions.

Arvind began producing denim at the end of the eighties and the early made Arvind a pioneer in the Indian denim business. The company has had a clear strategy of combining state-of-the-art production technology and innovative product development. Today Arvind operates in a variety of segments, including denim, woven and knitted fabric production, advanced materials, Arvind Brands, retail, and the Mega Mart and Arvind Store department stores.

Source: www.theguardian.com

http://www.theguardian.com




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Apparel - Trends

Denim Trend : Return of The High-Waisted Jeans After years of dominance of low-cut skinny-jeans, a new era of high-waisted jeans is coming and bringing a paradigmatic shift in denim fashion.

BuzzFeed Business reports that the trend was explicitly called out in recent earnings c a l l s . S u s a n K e l l o g g , president of VF predicts high-waisted jeans will be "the biggest trend of the spring" high rise jeans appeal to the mil lennial and the older customer "who just needs more coverage" alike, and the CEO of Levi Strauss & Co has also promised more styles for the high waisted jeans.

The noted fashion mavens at, er, Goldman Sachs, also believe this could be the year that women’s pants with high waistlines go mainstream among the discerning youth of the US.

The pants, which shorten the torso and "amplify the bottom," Goldman says, are already the norm in Europe, where trends typically run ahead of the US. They are becoming more prevalent in pop culture, being worn by the likes of Taylor Swift, Miley Cyrus and the cast members of HBO's iconoclastic series, Girls. Compiled from various sources

The last “macro shift” in fashion, according to Goldman, was the advent of skinny jeans in the middle of the last decade. The bank’s analysts say this led to widely disparate performance among retailers, depending upon whether they were able to capitalize upon it or not.

Such shifts are rare, and d i f f e r e n t f r o m m i c r o shifts—such as the advent of colored pants, which could be combined with clothing from seasons past. Macro shifts, in contrast, are further reaching, much longer in duration, and serve as catalysts for complete wardrobe turnover.

In simpler words, they are huge sales opportuni t ies. Urban Outfitters embraced skinny jeans before the rest of its peers in 2005. That initially hurt its sales and margins, but the chain benefitted from being seen as the “go-to” destination for the trend, and its sales, margins and prof i ts r e c o v e r e d d r a m a t i c a l l y i n subsequent years.

The influx of high-waisted jeans will come in right at the fall of colored denim, a trend that industry insiders claim has already peaked.

Apparel - Campaign

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ONLY S/S campaign shows new denim range

Image Source : thefashionache.blogspot.in

Image Source : thefashionache.blogspot.in Image Source : thefashionache.blogspot.in

ONLY shows off its denim DNA through its brand new fashion forward Spring/Summer campaign which centers on ONLYs latest denim collection and features model Sonja Van Den Heever. Sonja fiercely portrays the core of ONLYs denim universe through intriguing pictures, in which she models.

ONLYs ultimate denim must-haves, include this season’s trendy jumpsuits and the classic slim fit jean. With her fresh look and understated intensity, Sonja is the quintessence of coolness and consequently the perfect pick for portraying ONLYs denim world.

The campaign was shot in the streets of Bologna, and the monochrome look of these visual surroundings functioned to further strengthen the vitality and power that that frames collectively radiate.

These simple settings - along with Sonja’s strong portrayal has made the campaign successful in objectifying the very essence of the ONLY attitude and denim feel.

Source: www.fibre2fashion.com

http://www.fibre2fashion.com




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Apparel

Uniqlo introduces selvedge for under £40When it comes to jeans, a pair cut from selvedge denim is the undisputed holy grail. However, getting a pair with the trademark white edges when you flip up your hems, often means high price. Uniqlo, has now provided an alternative, by introducing Japanese selvedge jeans for under £40.

The selvedge jeans are available in washed deep indigo denim and cut slim with a straight leg, they're the kind of classic shape and colour that transcends any trends. Because it's selvedge, its going to move with you as you wear them and mould around you. A tailoring service is offered free-of-charge in store, in case the pair is too long.

All this of course makes that small price tag all the sweeter. The only thing to work out now really is how high you're going to roll those cuffs after you get your pair out of the shop.

Source: www.gq-magazine.co.uk

Image Source: www.gq-magazine.co.uk

Premium Denim Jeans : Made in IndiaLooking for an exclusive premium class jeans? A few minutes of surfing will bring up a Momotaro jeans for USD 2000 and a 3x1 customized jeans for USD 1200. And, there are a large number of brands offering jeans for 200+ USD.

The discerning jeans lovers in India have had to go in for foreign brands and labels to satiate their desire for a premium category jean.

It is not that international quality jeans can not be made in India - we have the best of fabric available, along with dedicated jeans makers and expert washers.

In the near future, a few indigenous jeans designers will be coming up with premium denim jeans under the Made in India initiative being taken by Denim Club.

Watch out this space for some exciting news about Made in India Premium Denim Jeans!

http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk




Fabric : Strategy

Isko Steps Out As Premium Denim Ingredient Brand

For years, Isko was content to operate as a business-to-business player, a well-known global manufacturer of functional fabrics to which high-end designer denim brands could turn to make their jeans stretchier or stronger or otherwise more appealing.

Recently, however, the Turkish company has been taking a page from other so-called ingredient brands that have become household names in their own right, in a quest to garner consumer attention and preference in-store. It’s a timely move, given consumers’ heightened interest in value, brand purpose and sourcing.

The move is also timely given the lagging momentum in a once-hot market. Premium denim has seen some fraying in recent years. As NPD Group Chief Industry Analyst Marshal Cohen wrote in a recent blog post, the total denim market is a $17 billion business, up 5 percent vs. the same time period a year ago. But the premium denim market - denim priced at $75 and above, accounting for 7 percent of all denim sales, is down 18% compared to last year, according to NPD. Sales are down all over, including on the west coast. With growth rates down and consumers feeling maxed out with jeans purchases, opportunity lies in new, alluring technologies, according to Cohen: “Wake up denim makers! It’s time to give the consumers what they want: a reason to buy and to make that backside look even better.”

Isko, the textile division of Sanko Group, one of the five largest conglomerates in Turkey, and covering more than 35% of the global premium denim market. “One jean out of three is made out of this denim,” said Head of Worldwide Marketing Marco Lucietti. Isko, founded in 1983, ships to 60 countries, and its “wearable technology” is in 2,500 products. Eighty-five percent of its denim innovations are patented. Certain jeans brands, like Diesel, with which the company has an existing co-branding project for its JOGG jeans, can use certain of its technologies on an exclusive basis, for example, for two seasons. Isko even claims creation of the jegging—a stretchy denim legging. “We own the trademark,” Lucietti said.

Sanko Textiles-Isko denim division hired, Fatih Konukoglu, CEO, four years ago and he started building the global marketing team. “We’ve always been an innovation company; now we’re becoming an innovation and marketing company,” Lucietti said, as it seeks to grow the business. The company’s ingredient-brand strategy began in 2010, but it now is working to build greater awareness among consumers. The company launched an ad campaign to the denim community and has experimented with displaying the Isko brand with hang tags on products at the point of sale.

Besides Diesel, the company has projects with brands such as British brand MiH, 3×1, J. Crew and Esprit as they seek to create higher-value and sometimes higher-priced jeans. In fact, Isko doesn’t want to be in all denim, but rather, “stick to premium denim,” Lucietti said. Kutay Saritosun, who oversees North American marketing said that Primary U.S. target markets, are New York and Los Angeles.

“We need to be consistent to build an ingredient brand,” Lucietti acknowledges. “We are moving our marketing and communications strategy toward being the thought leader of our category,” including with involvement in industry-educational program i-Skool. “[Our goal] is not to speak about ourselves, but to have the industry speaking about Isko.”

Source: www.forbes.com

Image Source : www.forbes.com

http://www.forbes.com




Industry - Network

Mr. Ponnusami Palaniappa, Director

Five P Venture India Pvt. Ltd., Erode, India

Mr. Aamir Muhammad, Marketing DirectorMarks International Ltd., Faisalabad, Pakistan

Mr. Samarth Singh, Director

Indiana Clothing, Rudrapur, India

Mr. Dushyant Thapa, Business DeveloperAlamode Retail, Gangktok, India

Mr. Udit Agarwal, Merchandiser

Aashutosh Enterprises, Kanpur, India

Mr. Vaibhav Mathankar, Sr. Marketing ExecutiveLNJ Denim, Banswara, India

Mr. Ali Sammour, Founder

Twelveounce Denim Lab, Los Angeles, USA

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From The Denim Directory

Company:

Segment: Machinery

Jayantilal S. Gandhi & Co. (Mach. Div.) better known as Jaytex in the textile world, is a pioneer and a leading manufacturer of weaving preparatory equipment in India. Jaytex was formed in 1964 with the main aim of manufacturing 100% indigenous machinery for weaving preparatory department in lieu of the costly imported machines which were being used by mills up to that time.

Jaytex made it's beginning by developing Reaching-In Machines by using Indigenous technology, which received overwhelming response. Encouraged by their success, they started manufacturing Warp Tying Machine in the year 1968.

Jaytex is well known for reliable and world class machines made with 100% indigenous material and the company has over 45 years experience in the manufacturing of warp tying machines.

Being 100% indigenous, cost effectiveness and operational simplicity, Jaytex in a short span of time made a large number of weaving mills as their clients. Jaytex has a extensive network with satisfied customers in India as well as overseas.

Jaytex products have easy adaptability to different methods of use, suitable for all types

Jayantilal S. Gandhi and Co.

of yarn, looms and departmental layouts. Jaytex has a extensive network with satisfied customers not only in India but also in other countries like USA, Iran, Indonesia, Burma, Bangladesh, Nepal, Nigeria, Taiwan, Kenya, Tanzania, Sudan and so on.

The warp tying machine by Jaytex is a highly complicated & sophisticated and deals with delicate yarn at a very high speed. The working range of this machine is practically unlimited and can tie any material with or without lease may it be cotton, spun, worsted, filament, P.V., woolen, denim slub, furnishing auto or industrial fabric from finest to coarsest with high efficiency at low labour cost. Jaytex also manufactures dressing frames which are made from specially extruded alloy sections, which are very sturdy and lightweight and at the same time durable for years of service. Jaytex also offers heavy duty bar tensioning yarn dressing frame specially developed for denim and courses warps.

Mr. Zubin [email protected]+91 79 2642 3312www.jaytexindia.com

Jaytex Warp Tying Machine

HD/UB For Very Coarse Warps

http://www.jaytexindia.com
