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How did the embroidery/lace business between Austria and Africa start? What is the current situation? How can the future look like?
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International Marketing
„African Embroideries“ produced in Austria
Silke Jurkowitsch, Ph.D.
Personal BackgroundEducation:- Master: Project and process management, University of Applied
Sciences Vorarlberg- PhD: Marketing at the Leeds Metropolitan University, UKMain focuses & interests:- Creativity, Trends & Innovation New Business Development- Project & Process Management- Marketing - Lobbying & Networking- Extras:
- Luxury products in the fields of Fashion, Interior Design, Architecture, Art- Crystal and Gem components (Chatons, Hotfix, etc.)- Development of various international Innovation and Creativity projects for
Industry goods and consumer goods (Asia, Africa, America, Eastern Europe, Near Middle East)
- Valuable contacts (Africa, Near Middle East, Asia, Europe)
© Silke Jurkowitsch 2
For African embroideries produced in Austria
3
Embroidery = Decoration1. Fabric 2. Decoration of fabrics with Yarn & Lurex Embroidery Components (pearls, Kauri shells, crystals, …) Colors Motives, Symbols, Metaphor, Brand logo
4© Silke Jurkowitsch
Design
Home textiles Lingerie
Clothing
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Looking into Africa
6© Silke Jurkowitsch
Africa´s Basics Family & Society is the focus Time – Improvisation - Creativity “God/Gods is/are leading our life” –
Voodoo/Islam/Christianity Body decoration = personalized style Social status,
prestige Jewelry Hair Tattoos Henna Textiles
© Silke Jurkowitsch 7
Body decoration
8© Silke Jurkowitsch
Religion
9© Silke Jurkowitsch
Voodoo market
10© Silke Jurkowitsch
Beginning of exporting to Africa
In the 50s/60s Sudan consumers bought Sudanvoile from Austrian embroidery companies, Sudanese had customers in Nigeria
Mid 60er Kurt Nachbaur & Oswald Brunner acting in Ghana & Senegal Embroidery contacts in Lagos (Nigeria)
New market by chance!
© Silke Jurkowitsch 11
© Silke Jurkowitsch 12
Exporter
Design
Embroidery Production
Finance & Administration
Sales (Marketing)
Design
Embroidery Production
Typical company: 1-30 employees Family-oriented - introverted Inheritance generation
(young – old) Small scale Small budgets Little internationalization
Embroidery Industry Development in Vorarlberg
© Silke Jurkowitsch 13
0
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
3000
3500
4000
1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2008
Machines
Companies
Employees
2008:289 machines146 companies798 employees
Export volumes per region
© Silke Jurkowitsch 14
1995 2000 2007
Australia/Oceania
Asia
America
Near Middle East
Africa
Europe
37.116
45.399
9.744
28.610
47.586
7.300
Europe Africa Rest
2007 in 1.000 € 2008 in 1.000 €
Embroidery Exports
© Silke Jurkowitsch 15
>60% Africa
Production
© Silke Jurkowitsch 16
17
Embroideries Customers Junctions
© Silke Jurkowitsch 18
Dubai
London
Vorarlberg
Bird´s eye view
African customers
© Silke Jurkowitsch 19
African embroideries
© Silke Jurkowitsch 20
© Silke Jurkowitsch 21
Point of Sales
© Silke Jurkowitsch 22
Tailors
23© Silke Jurkowitsch
Wearing occasions
© Silke Jurkowitsch 24
For African embroideries produced in Austria
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Austria Visa – entry requirements (Schengen) Import regulations (WTO) Structure problem of the embroidery branch Follow-up problem – Youth is not interested in
taking over the own companies Company positioning open Cooperation between embroidery companies
needed to survive Production from Austrian embroidery producers
outsourced to Asia
© Silke Jurkowitsch 26
Clash: dressed African marketvs. undressed Western market
© Silke Jurkowitsch 27
To do modulesPositioning
Brand
Organisation Lobbying Safe industry's competitiveness
Communication Marketing Distribution
Market protection New markets Investments
Design Product development
© Silke Jurkowitsch 28
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Organisation
1 company 1 project
3 companies 1 project6 companies 3 projects
? ?
1-xy companies 1-xy projectsIndustry solution
© Silke Jurkowitsch
New markets South Africa (Namibia,
Angola, etc.) East Africa (Tanzania, Kenya,
Mauritius, etc.) West Africa (Senegal,
Cameroon, etc.) Emirates
New customersNew distribution channel/sNew designs/products
© Silke Jurkowitsch 30
Africa & consumersAfrica Political instable situation Corruption $ exchange rate risk Brands vs. No-names Original vs. Copy Communication (Internet, Handy, etc.)
Consumer 2 types of customers: „old“ and „new“ Consumer becomes more demanding (service, communication,
etc.) World crises affects the money of the actual consumers
market is moving, new people get into the elite class Embroidery can get the cloth of the poorest
© Silke Jurkowitsch 31
32© Silke Jurkowitsch
Product & DistributionProduction Differences in the quality disappear Cheap Asian imports Second hand cloth is pouring in Innovation needed
Distribution Trend towards Brands Market vs. Shops/shopping
malls Opening of own shops/flagship stores (guarantee of
quality, protection against forgery) Africa is recognized as market more competition
© Silke Jurkowitsch 33
Original vs. copy
34© Silke Jurkowitsch
Second hand
35© Silke Jurkowitsch
Market
36© Silke Jurkowitsch
Shop
37© Silke Jurkowitsch
Inside a Shop
38© Silke Jurkowitsch
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Marketing Global competition in the luxury market More and more competitors and productions in the Asian
region are prospering Marketing across cultures Intercultural aspects Market entries into new regions Customer relationship management Sales people get a
more important role Communication & Social Media activities
© Silke Jurkowitsch
41© Silke Jurkowitsch
42© Silke Jurkowitsch
43© Silke Jurkowitsch