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TUTORIAL FOR BABY AND TODDLER SLIPPERS. This pattern is for the 12-18 months size. For smaller sizes photocopy the pattern using the reduction function. To make sure you have printed the pattern at the right size measurement, check across the straight seam of the slipper top. It should measure 5 ¼ inches. I have used cotton for the outside, flannelette for the lining and non-slip gripper fabric for the soles. I used iron-on Vilene for the interlining fused to the cotton. What you need: 2 cotton tops, 2 flannelette tops, 2 Vilene tops, 2 cotton heels, 2 flannelette heels, 2 Vilene heels, 2 flannelette soles 2 non-slip soles Elastic. 3/8ths of an inch seam allowance included. 1. Cut out all pattern pieces in cotton, iron-on interfacing, flannelette and non-slip gripper. 2. Iron on interfacing to cotton (slipper tops and heels) 3. Mark slits for elastic on flannelette and cut with seam ripper

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TUTORIAL FOR BABY AND TODDLER SLIPPERS. This pattern is for the 12-18 months size. For smaller sizes photocopy the pattern using the reduction function. To make sure you have printed the pattern at the right size measurement, check across the straight seam of the slipper top. It should measure 5 ¼ inches. I have used cotton for the outside, flannelette for the lining and non-slip gripper fabric for the soles. I used iron-on Vilene for the interlining fused to the cotton. What you need: 2 cotton tops, 2 flannelette tops, 2 Vilene tops, 2 cotton heels, 2 flannelette heels, 2 Vilene heels, 2 flannelette soles 2 non-slip soles Elastic. 3/8ths of an inch seam allowance included.

1. Cut out all pattern pieces in cotton, iron-on interfacing, flannelette and non-slip

gripper.

2. Iron on interfacing to cotton (slipper tops and heels) 3. Mark slits for elastic on flannelette and cut with seam ripper

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4. Sew the slipper top and lining together, right sides together, and press flat:

5. Fold exactly on the stitching line so that the outsides are uppermost and press again. Stitch close to the edge.

6. Sew the heel tops and lining together. Stitch from the corner up the side, along the straight top and down the other side. Clip the corners and turn right side out.

7. Press:

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8. Fold the straight top of the heel over about ½ inch. This is to make the heel casing for the elastic. Fold from the outside to the inside. Stitch:

9. Prepare the sole by putting the flannelette on the wrong side of the non-slip gripper. I based it using temporary spray adhesive (505):

10. Place the top on the sole making sure the non-slip part of sole is touching the cotton (rightside) of the top. When stitching the left sole the top should be placed so that the stitching starts about ¼ of an inch lower on the right hand side. Reverse this for the right sole. Stitch the top to the sole ease around the toes area (see picture below). I used a size 14 machine needle as the non-slip fabric can break smaller sized ones.

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11. Fold the heel piece in half and mark the centre (I do this with the iron so no mark is on the fabric) Do the same with the slipper foot. Start in the middle of the heel and stitch both sides easing as you go.

12. Trim the seams and zig-zag right around the inside of the slipper. Turn the slipper right side out:

13. Using a small safety pin in your elastic start to thread this into the slipper. Go through the two slits on the top first,

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14.

then proceed through the casing on the heel:

15. Make sure that the elastic isn’t twisted inside the casing. Pull the ends of

elastic until the backs of the slippers are drawn in (see finished picture) but there is still enough “give” in the elastic for easing onto small feet. Stitch elastic ends together and trim. (It is hard – but not impossible – to stitch the ends on the machine, I use a needle and thread at this stage. Also don’t be tempted to tie the elastic into a knot as this will dig into the foot of the wearer) Make sure both slippers have the same amount of elastic and then work the stitched ends into the casing. You have now finished your slippers. Cute eh?

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