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This project is about the product development in American Apparel This course is an-depth study about the apparel mass production process. Topics cover evaluation of apparel quality, development of and written garment specifications, garment costing, the sourcing of fabrications and findings, product development and sustainability and corporate social responsibility. Skills in computer-aided specifications development are emphasized.
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American Apparel Product Development
Layla Mostaghimi, Pa Dao Yang, Mariam Shamsid-Deen
American Apparel
Vision: “Guilt free shopping”Mission: To serve as a model for free society that is
both happy and profitable
About American Apparel Vertically Integrated manufacture, distributor,
wholesaler, retailer based in downtown LA Employ approximately 10,000 people globally,
operates 285 retail stores in 20 countries Target market: young metropolitan adult (20-
32) in major urban market with disposable income
Long-term goal: To become #1 in basic apparel (t-shirts, sweatpants, etc.)So that American Apparel the first name that comes to mind.
Vertical Integration Economy, Environment and Consumer
Business Model Focus on manufacturing operations of a small
circle of buildings in Southern California. Scraps
Mixed markers Accessory styles Bag O Scraps Rags Recycling Creative Re-Use
Continued… Solar Panels
150 Kilowatts 15% of energy needs
Organic Line 30,000 lbs. of cotton- Cleaner Cotton Initiative USDA approved Low-impact dying process
Transportation Bike program Bus passes
Product: Wedge Shoulder Chiffon Blouse
Changes
Fiber content Dye process Low impact care 3rd party Packaging Transportation
Fiber Content: 100% Recycled Polyester
What is it? Benefits
Recycle Polyester is polyester that is made from pre- and post- consumer polyester scrap, including water and soda bottle also known as Fortel Ecospun
Reduce waste going to landfills
Create less air, water, and soil contamination
Lessen dependence on oil
Help promote a new recycling stream for polyester clothing that is no longer wearable
Recycling Process
Collect Sort Shred & Compact Wash Melt Finish
SustainTex Founded in 2008 by
Jack Miller & Jerry Wheeler
Product and Service is all about the fabric & F.A.S.T Foot Print
Products: 100% certified Texas
organic cotton Recycled Polyester Blended option
SustainTex Vision: to minimize the environmental and social impacts of the textile industry by creating a strong and growing market for environmentally superior fabrics made in the USA.
Dyeing Process Low impact dyeing
Petroleum based, synthetic dye with higher absorption rate (70-80%) Less water in rinse process and less dye is being run off by the water Do not contain metals (chrome, copper and zinc) The dye and rise water often used again
AirDye “AirDye technology manages the application of color to textiles
without the use of water. It is today's sustainable alternative to traditional dyeing and printing processes.”
Does not pollute water in color application process, by using air instead of water.
Reduces energy = lower costs Do not use: boilers, screen printers, drying ovens or cleaning and
scouring chemicals Gives customers a way to choose style and sustainability at a
reasonable price.
Spring Ready-to-Wear 2010 (WWD) Jeffery Costello & Robert Tagliapietra
Eco-friendly clothes, with out giving up beauty and design
Matched up with AirDye Worked with water color palette and ombre effects
Jersey knits and washed silk http://blog.airdye.com/goodforwater/2009/09/19/rave-reviews-for-costello-tagliapietra-and-airdye-at-new-york-fashion-week/
Low Impact Care
Micro-Poly
Light weight fabric No shrinkage Machine wash hang
dry Wicks away
moisture Helps prevent odor
Nau (now)- sustainable urban and outdoor apparel
Avoid dry cleaning- Perchloroethylene
Cold water wash- full load Avoid Chlorine bleach
Hydrogen peroxide bleach Non-toxic detergents Line dry Product after life
Product Care
3rd Party Certified American Apparel believes being profitable is a social
and environmental successGreen America’s Green Business Certification
-Actively using their business as a tool for positive social change
-Operating a "values-driven" enterprise according to principles of social justice AND environmental
sustainability-Environmentally responsible in the way they source, manufacture, and market their products and run their operations and facilities-Socially equitable and committed to extraordinary practices that benefit workers, customers,
communities, and the environment-Accountable for their work by continually improving
and tracking their progress, and operating with radical transparency in every facet of their business
Packaging Water-based Printing
Eco friendly No plastic Screens cleaned with
just water Not toxic No lead no heavy
metals No ozone depleting
chemicals.
Re-Use Donate to local schools
Sustainable Packaging Coalition Meets performance
and cost It is sourced,
manufactured, transported and recycled
Physically designed to optimize materials and energy
Environmental Programs International: Coalition for Responsible Transportation -
http://www.responsibletrans.org The Clean Truck Initiative (CRT) are private sector members working in partnership
with America’s ports to establish clean action plans to develop and implement industry-supported clean truck protrams that are both environmentally and econmically sustainable
It’s a development with federal and state governments, and local ports around the country - it’s to improve the environmental quality of port communities and ensure that our nation’s ports remain an engine for job creation and a thriving economy
Objectives: Mission: Working with local policymakers and communities to develop innovative
solutions that reduce port truck pollution while maintaining flow of commerce CRT's Five Goals: 1) Develop a pro-active compliance attitude regarding the development
and administration of environmental emission regulations 2) Partner with ports across the country in support of clean air programs 3) Demonstrate our commitment to the environment and the communities
we serve 4) Facilitate the inclusion of industry perspective in legislative and
regulatory activities 5) Continue to build upon the collective strength of the Coalition
Environmental Programs Local: Pier Pass -
http://www.deq.state.or.us/aq/fleet/ A non-profit company created by marine terminal
operations at the ports of Los Angeles and Long Beach in 2005 to address multi-terminal issues such as congestion, security and air quality Discontine Clean Truck Fee Monitoring Traffic Flows Air Emissions Reducing TMF- Traffic Migation Fee Marine Terminal Operations Goods Movement Industry Minimizing daytime traffic congestions Enables truck owners to deliver more loads
Transportation They believe to keep the manufacturer under the same roof to
give the ability to quickly mobilize all departments, to respond directly to changes in the market, and to have complete visibility over their products
This model method is not only effective of the company but also for the environment
When buying a product from American Apparel a smaller portion of the margins goes towards fuel, trans-ocean container ships, middlemen, boxes, pallets and entropy - believing to spend more of the money on paying living wages to their workers, higher quality materials for the garments, and investing in the future for the company
They hold themselves accountable and responsible for their actions to do everything in-house with themselves to ensure adherence with US environmental regulations (effluents, waste disposal, airborne particulate matter, and more)
Module 1 Module 2
Brand Total Score 27.9 44
Product Total Score 45.9 64.5
5
15
25
35
45
55
65
Overall Score
Tota
l Sco
redP
oint
s
General Materials Packaging Manufacturing Transportation Use & Service End of Life (EOL)
Module 1 7.1 5.7 0 0 0 7.9 7.1
Module 2 5.7 7.1 4 5 0 7.9 14.3
1
3
5
7
9
11
13
15
Brand
Scor
ed P
oint
s
Materials Packaging Manufacturing Transportation Use & service End of Life (EOL)
Module 1 3.8 0.1 7.8 16.7 3.3 14.2
Module 2 6.3 0.3 7.8 16.7 16.7 16.7
13579
11131517
Product
Scor
ed P
oint
s
References http://www.kidbean.com/what-are-low-impact-dyes.html http://fashion.airdye.com/press/Article150_Press_091209_WWD/150_Press_0
91209_WWD.pdf http://fnasf.wordpress.com/2010/10/05/to-dye-for-new-sustainable-ways-of-
dyeing-and-printing-fabric/ http://www.airdye.com/about/what/ http://www.sustaintex.com/our_approach.html http://www.americanapparel.net/ http://www.natural-environment.com/blog/2008/01/24/what-is-ecospun/ http://www.libolon.com/recycled-polyester-1.html http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2009/07/14/why-is-recycled-polyester-con
sidered-a-sustainable-textile/ http://www.ecosperformance.com/intelligent-fabrics.aspx
The End