Arteinscena Texmedin

Arteinscena: a case study

Maria Adele Cipolla

[email protected]

www.arteinscena.biz

mailto:[email protected]

http://www.arteinscena.biz/

Texmedin WorkshopAthens, Sept 24, 2009

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TheatricalCostumes

Theatrical costumes are a synthesis of creativity, taste, historical research and… technique Sewing Cutting


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MySources

Museum collections (V&A, Kyoto…) Historical costume books based on

analysis of old garments (Kohler…) Tailoring magazines from the ‘20’s

through the ’50s, found second hand Private collections in Palermo of

original garments (two, in need of funding)

Family heirlooms: in Palermo even from the 18th century

Period portraits etc.


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Starting point:the base pattern

The human body is 3D but fabrics are 2D; we need to cut and insert darts to fit the fabric to the body

The base pattern is the result of a centuries-old tradition with precise rules

Nearly every distance between two points has a mathematical relation with one or more body measurements


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Variationson a theme

Costumes for an opera chorus are made from the same base pattern and developed for each singer’s measurements


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The pattern cutter(“chief”)

The key figure in a costume atelier is the “pattern cutter”

An atelier’s reputation depends on his skill

A mistaken cut leads to longer production time (and additional expenses)

But it is a disappearing craft No attraction for the young Uncomforable working position


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I’ve beenthrough it

I was tired of managing lots of cardboard shapes and depending entirely on a disappearing profession

I thought: could computers help me in this job?


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Industrial CAD doesn’t solve my problem

Industrial CAD uses fixed distances to draw the base pattern

From there, grading systems normally develop different sizes by increasing and decreasing the shape


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Macrogen© software: my solution. How does it work?

Like CAD, the software is based on cartesian coordinates

But each pattern is constructed using the traditional cutting method

Every distance is espressed as a function of a body measurement


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Why it fitsmy needs

With Macrogen you can create base patterns (called Macros) using default measurements

Replacing the default values with those of a specific body, the pattern fits with the client’s shape and proportions

A macro file can be created for each model, taking the place of the old base patterns in cardboard


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The Macros maintainthe cutter’s expertise

The Macro is thus the closest thing to the traditional technique

That is the process still followed by theatrical costume houses (especially for opera)


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My digitalarchive

One by one I transfered my own collection of base patterns into the Macrogen system

My collection used to require two bookcases, now it all fits on a pen-drive I can take with me


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I decided to offer my collection to others

Arteinscena is an ecommerce service providing theatrical costume patterns developed to individual measurements, throughout the world


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On-line clientsselect a model

Clients browse a catalogue of over 200 models Men and Women From 1060 to 2000

Using a tape measure they take their traditional tailoring body measurements (circumference, length and width)


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And I generate theircustom pattern as a pdf file

I input the client’s measurements to replace the default values in the macro, adjusting where needed

Using an associated CAD module I place the pieces, colour the elements, add notes and generate the pdf file

Within max 3 working days from the order, the client receives a set of A0 sized pdf files (normally 2-8 sheets), which can be plotted at a local service


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The softwareis precise

Just as Microsoft Word cannot write a novel, MacroGen doesn’t transform any user into a costume designer

For that you need passion, lots of historical research, and years of back-stage experience

However, the software helps you to save time, avoid mistakes and reduce repetitive tasks


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I add myexperience… The software optimises the work process without

changing the important parts The rules of cutting follow the traditional practice Every pattern is manually adjusted where the drawing

lacks harmony Just as an experienced cutter would do to complete a job For example, in the curve of the armhole

Nothing generated automatically escapes my personal control


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…andhuman support

My clients prefer to have a personal contact (mail and sometimes phone), not an anonymous “shopping cart”

The client is accompanied through the process of making the costume with handbooks and mail and phone support

An online community forum is available where clients exchange tips and tricks (with me and between them), signal events of common interest and post photos of their creations

Thank you for your attention

Maria Adele Cipolla

[email protected]

www.arteinscena.biz

mailto:[email protected]

http://www.arteinscena.biz/

Design

Arteinscena Texmedin