STEP AHEAD

Presented By – Abhinay Gupta AD - V

Preface

An industrial orientation was done on leather shoes in red chief. The presentation talks about how a leather shoe is made right from scratch. It involves several processes which cannot be determined when we take a glance at the shoes. There are several secondary processes also like packaging, cleaning, etc. Shoe making is a very tedious task involving an array of processes at each step which requires to be done perfectly in order to achieve best results.The presentation is an insight about its processes.

Rohit Surfactants private limited (RSPL)Started in 1988 Fast - moving consumer goods

Red Chief (1997)

Domestic

LEAYAN GLOBAL PRIVATE LIMITED ( 1995)

Exports

FMCG Footwear Wind Energy Real Estate Dairy Products

RED CHIEF

Tannery & Manufacturing Units

1 Tannery in Unnao 2 Factories in Kanpur 1 Factory in Haridwar E-commerce & store

36 Stores in Uttar Pradesh Madhya Pradesh Deals in Men's Footwear

Main colors, Leathers & Sole colors – Elephant Tan Leathers – Nubuck Soles – PU Black, Brown Oily PVC Rust TPR Tobacco

Logo

Production5000/ day

DERBY SHOE OXFORD SHOE

MOCCAINS

SLIP-ON SHOE

HIGH ANKLE SHOE BOOTS

Vamp

Logo

Quarter

outsole

Eyelet facing

Plug

Tongue Eyelet

Heel Counter

Lining

Collar

Sampling Department

Cutting is done manually

Tin pattern of approved design

Only one side is made

Skiving

Marking & attaching components

Closing

Lasting

When one odd pair is made. They send it to retail department for approval and if it is approved then they make sample for all sizes in even pair

CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Swing arm machine

Also called clicking machineWorks on hydraulic systemBoth hand operatedPoly propylene boardCutting dieLess wastage ( marker planning) For cutting leather components & lining Goat lining, B/C lining, B/C tek lining

Travelling head machine

Works on hydraulic systemOperated with both hands32mm or 52mm die is usedFor cutting In-sole, toe puff, foamIn-sole ( leather board )Toe puff or stiffener ( cellulose rubber board thickness 1.2mm )Padding foam 20mm, 5mmEva ( ethylene- vinyl acetate) foam 1.5mm, 4mm

Fabric cutting machine

Straight blade fabric cutting is usedFor cutting vamp cloth, mesh fabric & sugar coated cloth

Cutting Die

A. Single Edge Die

B. Double Edge Die

Size

19 mm For Goat Leather , Sheep Leather & Lining 32 mm For Thick Leathers

52 mm For Foam

A

B

Skiving

Folding Skive ( 11-12 mm )

Raw Edge Skive( 35 Degree & 2/3 Thickness)

Underlay Skive ( 08-10 mm )

Splitting & Fusing

Thickness is reducedWhole leather skin

Sugar coated drill cloth Sugar coated cloth

CLOSING DEPARTMENT

Marking

Marking Marking & Component Attaching

Crayon markingColor is selected according to leather colorMarking pattern is made of PVC ( Polyvinyl chloride ) sheet

Neoprene ( dendrite ) & Latex rubber solution a Hand hammer

Stitching & Stiffener Attaching

Flat bed double needle stitching machine Post bed stitching machineZigzag stitching machine Threads 3PLY ( needle no- 14,16,18 ) 6PLY ( needle no- 19-21 ) 9PLY ( needle no- 21,22 )12PLY( needle no- 24,25 )HS31 ( needle no- 24 )Stiffener inserting

Thread Burning & Upper Quality Check

Thread Burning & Upper Checking

Burn extra threads from upperIt’s a kind of blower Upper quality is checkedThey see stitch lines

LASTING DEPARTMENT

Counter Molding

Stiffener is insertedMachine has aluminum lastUpper is fixed2 pairs of pincers are just placed below the mold

Forepart Lasting

Last is set on the machinepincers engage and grip the entire fore part of the upperNo creases at the feather edge.Lasting allowances are flat to the insoleUpper stucked to the insole firmly.Proper position of vamp on the last

Seat & Side Lasting

Hot melt cement is deposited on the unlasted waist of the insoleBack height to be correctBack seam is placed centrally,upright and straightSeat and quarter portions are molded nicelyNo crease at the feather edge.Top line correctly balanced

Wrinkle Chasing

Roughing or Scoring

Steel wire wheel Brass wire wheel Scouring paper

Wrinkle chasing is done through electric heatersIts is done for giving smooth surface

Sole Attaching

PU ( polyurethane) adhesive is usedHeat setting

Sole Pressing

Sole is pressed manually on the last Then they keep it in sole pressing machine After that they send it to cooling chamber

Removing last & Finishing

Finishing is done through buffing machineCrape is used to remove extra adhesive & marking lines PolishingPackaging

Conclusion

After doing the industrial orientation I have understood the basics of shoe making. This orientation really helped in terms of gaining knowledge and exposure.I really enjoyed my work there and also learned as how relations are maintained in a professional world.I would like to thank my faculties and everyone else who helped me to do my orientation succesfully.