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water prep | installation | startup

standard pool system

Professional installation by a licensed bonded pool professional is recommended.

Please read this installation instruction guide COMPLETELY prior to starting the installlation. This will help ensure that you have the appropriate tools, fittings and plan.

If there are multiple pumps, use the primary filter pump for the system installation.

IMPORTANTNOTE

2

Water Prep: Balance Your Water

Installation

Startup

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Troubleshooting/Service

System Programming

Water Chemistry

Water chemistry plays a key role in the effectiveness of your CL Free Water System.

1 If your pool was a salt water pool you must completely drain it, pressure wash it, flush the plumbing and filter, and fill with fresh water.

2 If your water is over 2 years old, consider replacing it and starting with fresh water. You have purchased a system designed to provide you with chlorine and chemical free water, why start with leftovers and unknowns from previous chemical use?

3 Test for Phosphates. Treat if present. Phosphates are algae food. Your pool should have no phosphates present.

4 Balance your Water. The Langlier or Saturation Saturation Index is a calculated number used to predict the stability/balance of water. That is, whether the water will precipitate, dissolve, or be in equilibrium with calcium carbonate (scale). This index is used to determine standard pool water parameters as well as the ability of the water to hold copper and be within the limits required for the effective application of your CL Free Water System. The target water chemistry will result in an index value of 0.0 (zero). Any index value that is -0.3 to 0.3 with a pH not exceeding 7.6 is an acceptable range. However, 0.0, balanced water, is your objective

Compute the water’s Langelier/Saturation Index Value.

a) Determine your water’s Hardness, pH, Total Alkalinity and Temperature (use worksheet on page 6)

b) Go to www.clfree.com/watertest and use the online calculator to determine your water’s Index Value. (Alternatively you can call your dealer or email the numbers to us at [email protected] and we will do the calculation for you.)

water prep: balance your water 4


c) Treat as necessary to balance your water. (see “Swimming Pool Water” appendix in your CL Free manual or the instructions online at www.clfree.com/watertest)

5 Filtration System. We do not ask you to change your Filtration System, just the Media inside the filter.

Your old filter material is completely contaminated with chlorine, algaecide, stabilizer and any other chemical that was used in the pool. We simply need to start fresh.

If you have a Cartridge filter replace the Cartridge element.

If you have a sand filter, remove the old sand, check inside the sand filter to make sure the laterals on the bottom of the filter are hand tight and replace the sand with new.

If you have a D.E. filter you must take the D.E. filter apart. Clean all the grids of the old D.E. material and replace with new D.E. powder

Test Date: / /

Test Date: / /

Test Date: / /

IDEAL VALUES

hardness 200 to 400

pH 7.0 to 7.6

total alkalinity 80 to 150

temperature —

Langelier/Saturation

Index Value0.0


Please visit www.clfree.com/watertest and use the online calculator to determine your water's Index Value.

Test #1 Test #2 Test #3


Installation

Startup

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System Programming

Water Chemistry

installation components 8Before Getting Started...

Please review the following components of the system, and ensure that the appropriate tools are available.

controller

flow cell

harness

installation components 9

Tools:• Phillips Head Screwdriver

• Box/Open-End 9/16” wrench

• PVC Saw

• Primer & Glue

• Aladdin Magic Lube (or similar product)

• AC/DC Volt/AMP Meter

• 120 VAC GFCI Outlet

• Outdoor Water-proof AC Outlet Housing

pressure fitting

pressure switch

power supply

5/32” tubing

pressure switch components

installation 10

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installation 11

flow cell

1 The Flow Cell is typically installed after the filter, before the heater. It can be installed between the pump and filter, but should never be installed directly above the filter pump. If a plate came loose and fell into the pump it could damage the pump impeller.

2 Carefully measure cut out dimensions = 13 1/2”.

3 Install the Flow Cell so the water flow is Titanium first, then Copper. Be careful not to get glue on the threads or union surfaces.

4 Tighten Copper and Titanium screws hand tight, not wrenched on tight.

5 Lightly lube the Flow Cell threads and o-ring with a pool lubricant designed for o-rings and gaskets, such as Aladdin Magic-Lube. Tighten unions hand tight.

electrical

6 Power the provided power supply with a 120 vac GFCI outlet.

copper plates

union union

titanium plates

direction of water flow

installation 12

7 Attach the harness to the controller. Mount on wall.

8 Plug the power supply into the controller.

controller

power supply

harness

to120 vac GFCI

3 amp Blade fuse holder(LED lights up when fuse is blown)

installation 13

9 Attach the harness leads to the Copper and Titanium flow cell leads at this time. The leads are labeled and attach individually to the plates. DO NOT attach more than one lead to one terminal. Polarity does not matter.

titanium leads

copper leads

flow cell

to pressure switch

proper pressure switch orientation: vent hole on bottom, aiming down

pressure switch connectors to controller harness

pressure switch

push to release push fittings

5/32” tubing

installation 14

10 Attach the Harness leads to the Pressure Switch, polarity does not matter.

11 Push the 5/32” tubing into the Pressure Fitting, run the tubing over to the Flow Cell

12 Remove the Pressure/Impeller Drain Port Plug on the pool pump and replace with the Pressure Fitting

13 Push the other end of the tubing into the Pressure Switch

14 Proceed to Start Up Instructions

5/32” pressure fitting 5/32” push x 1/4” male pipe thread

pressure switch components

5/32” tubing

pressure switch

to p

ool p

ump

installation 15

pressure fitting

replace pressure/impeller drain port plug on pool pump with pressure fitting


Installation

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System Programming

Water Chemistry

startup 18

voltage test - titanium plates

flow cell

titanium plates(oxidation)

copper plates(ionization)

startup 19

start-up

1 Plug the power supply into the 120 VAC GFCI outletand CL Free controller. When the pool pump is not running you will see the display make red circles. This indicates that the controller is powered, but not active.

2 Turn on the pool pump. The circles should now be replaced with an active display. If the display is still making circles you may have to adjust the pressure switch pressure setting. See last part of this section.

3 Set Oxidation (Titanium) on the controller to “9”, test voltage across Titanium plates with a Voltage Meter set to DC volts. Reading should be between 20 & 22 volts DC.

4 Set Ionization (Copper) on the controller to “9”, test voltage across Copper plates. Reading should be between16 & 18 volts DC. If these readings are significantly different, call your dealer to discuss.

controller

set ionization to “9” for

voltage test & startup

set oxidation to “9” for voltage test & startup

always leave on “9”

9 9

startup 20

controller

to INCREASE ionization power

ionization LED light

oxidation LED light

to INCREASE oxidation power

to DECREASE oxidation power

to DECREASE ionization power

startup 21

start-up

5 Lit LEDs indicate power to their respective plates.

LEDs flash slowly = indicates low power

LEDs flash quickly = indicates power to the plates

NOTE:

To indicate higher power, LEDs are lit solid for full power.

LEDs change colors from red to green to red every 2 minutes. This is because the controller alternates plate polarity to prevent buildup.

controller

ionizationset to 9 during start-up

full power whenever the pump runs;

NOT INTENDED for ongoing operation

ionizationOFF

oxidation highest

always set on 9

9 9

ionizationhighest

ionizationlowest

0

8

7

6

5

4

32

1

0

8

7

6

5

4

32

1

oxidationhigh

oxidationlowest

oxidationOFF

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settings

5 Oxidation will always be set on “9.”

6 Set Ionization to “9” during start up. At this setting the Copper Ionization runs full power whenever the pool pump runs. This setting is used to bring the copper level up quickly. It is intended for Startup ONLY.

After the Cooper level in the pool reaches 0.5 – 0.7 ppm of Copper, use settings 1-8, 8 being the highest power and 1 the lowest. These settings, 1-8, only run one hour per 24 hour period or filter cycle and are used to maintain the copper setting (these are the default settings and can be changed if needed).

There is a Ionization Start-Up Option. When set, the controller will run Ionization at high power, 9, for the number of days set, then automatically change over to the set maintneance level. See Appendix Ionization for instructions on how to set.

7 Be sure to maintain chlorine in the pool during the startup period. This protects your water until the CL Free System can take over.

startup 23

copper levels0.15 ppm: addresses bacteria

0.5 - 0.7 ppm: addresses algae

1.3 ppm: the amont of copper allowed in drinking water

startup 24

pressure switch (bottom)

counter clockwise increase pressure

clockwise decrease pressure

vent

+

+

–

–

pressure adjustment screw

startup 25

The Pressure Switch is Field Adjustable from 3.6 psi to 25 psi. The switch must see a higher pressure than its setting for it to trigger the CL Free controller on.

To adjust, look at the bottom. There are two holes, one is a vent, the second is the pressure adjustment screw. Note the directions, counter clock wise increases the amount of pressure to activate the pressure switch, clockwise reduces it.

After adjusting, turn the pool pump on and off several times to ensure that the controller turns off as well as on.

pressure switch adjustment


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Water Chemistry

troubleshooting/service 28

© Copyright 2005 • CL Free Water Systems • 866-NO-CHLORINE • 866-662-4567 • www.clfree.comtrouble shooting/service

trouble shooting/service CLFree pool sanitation water system

weekly procedure

Weekly Maintenance 1. Observer water level in the pool and adjust if necessary.

2. Observe pressure in the filter and backwash as needed.

3. Test for pH, Copper and Total Alkalinity. pH should be between 7.0 and 7.8, Copper 0.5 and 0.7, Total Alkalinity 80 and 150. Adjust as required.

4. Brush the tile, walls and bottom of your pool.5. Empty skimmer and pump baskets, skim, remove all

organic material.6. Observe the Flow Cell. If significant buildup is present,

clean/service as described below.

Regular Service/Maintenance

abnormal conditions steps

Cloudy Water

Algae Bloom

This system is not as aggressive as Chlorine, which is one of the reasons the water is so pleasant to swim in. Because the active oxidation only occurs within the flow cell, adequate filtering time is required. 2-3 pool turnovers per filtering cycle are recommended.

Cloudy water can occur after a storm or heavy bather load. Additional filter cycles should take care of this. A faster solution is to shock the pool using either a non-chlorine or chlorine based shock.

In the event of an algae bloom, test your pH, adjust as required. Thoroughly brush the pool, the algae should be dead and come off easily in a brown cloud. Filter/vacuum out the algae.

Backwash the filter to eliminate the extra organic load. The copper level may have lowered, adjust the ionizer settings as required. A non-chlorine or chlorine pool shock treatment is also recommended.




symptom procedure

No lights on the Controller. 1. Unplug the power supply either from the wall or from the Controller, wait 30 seconds and reconnect.

2. Test the AC outlet for power.

3. Unplug the power supply feed to the controller and test the power supply (it should be 18 volts ac minimum).

4. Check the fuse in the bottom of the controller, ensure it goes back in correctly (it can miss).

5. Call your local dealer/distributor or CLFree Water Systems for further help.

CONTROLLER

error messages meaning/steps

flashing “oc” This means the system current protection circuit senses a currrent overload and the system has gone into a self protection mode.

If “ion/oc” is flashing, only the copper ionization has been shut down. If “ion” by itself is flashing no power is going to either set of plates.

This condition is caused by too conductive of water.

1. Reduce Ionization power until the “oc” condition stops.

2. Call you dealer for advice on internal settings.

3. Drain and fill the pool with fresh water.




symptom procedure

Copper plates are green. 1. A light green color/coating is normal for copper and not a problem.

Plates are heavily coated, look dirty, etc.

Clean the plates/flow cell.

1. Ensure that power is off to the pool pump and connot be accidentally turned on.

2. Carefully disconnect the leads from the flow cell.3. Unscrew the flow cell at the unions.4. Use something like a paint stirring stick to dislodge any

buildup in the flow cell, hose out thoroughly.5. Soak until clean in Mineral Magic (sold by CFWS and

safe to put your hands into), or a mixture of Muriatic Acid and water (25% acid, 75% water). Use a plastic container, always pour the acid into the water to prevent the splashing of acid, use gloves and eye protection.

6. Rinse thoroughly (save the Mineral Magic for reuse, save or dispose or the acid/water mixture safely).

7. Gently tighten the terminal screws on the flow cells.8. Reassemble. Strong hand tight should be enough.

Reverse steps 3, 2, and 1 above.

Copper plates need replacement.

1. Follow the procedure above to disassemble the flow cell.

2. Unscrew copper plates.3 . Clean flow cell as described above.

IONIZATION / OXIDATION CHAMBERPlates need to be cleaned when they show signs of build-up. This removes any oxidation or buildup and maintains good conductivity with the water



Installation

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System Programming

Water Chemistry

system programming 32

© Copyright 2005 • CL Free Water Systems • 866-NO-CHLORINE • 480-422-5710 • www.clfree.comcopper / ionization setup guide, page 1

system programming instructionsCLFree Pool Sanitation water systemCOPPER/IONIZATION SETUP GUIDE

NOTE: No change should be made to any of the following default settings without first checking with your dealer of CL Free Water Systems.

enter copper/ionization internal programming mode

1 Hold the ionization up arrow 4 seconds until the display blinks once. Hold the ionization down arrow 4 seconds until the display blinks once.

The system will display a the programming step for 0.7 seconds, then change to the value of the corresponding setting. Adjust the displayed value as appropriate using the pH up and pH down buttons. Push the calibrate button to proceed to the next program step.

1 Program Step -01: configuration id is displayed, then current system configuration (PO for POOL, PU for WELL or HO for House system). Use the ionization up and ionization down button to set the desired configuration. Push the calibrate button to proceed to next program step. POOL (default)

2 Program Step -02: flow or pressure switch setting is displayed, then “y” or “n” for yes or no if a flow or pressure switch is being used. Selecting yes means the system will not power the plates unless the flow or pressure switch circuit has been completed. Use the ionization up and ionization down button to set the desired configuration. Push the calibrate button to proceed to next program step. No Flow or Pressure Switch present (default)

3 Program Step -03: ionization duration hours is displayed, then the number of hours ionization is powered in maintenance mode (power settings 1-8). Use the ionization up and ionization down button to set the desired duration. Push the calibrate button to proceed to next program step. 1 hour (default)

pH CALIBRATE

pH CALIBRATE

oxidation down button

ionization up arrow

ionization down arrow

system programming 33

© Copyright 2005 • CL Free Water Systems • 866-NO-CHLORINE • 480-422-5710 • www.clfree.comcopper / ionization setup guide, page 2

system programming instructionsCLFree Pool Sanitation water systemCOPPER/IONIZATION SETUP GUIDE

NOTE: No change should be made to any of the following

4 Program Step -04: ionization duration minutes is displayed, then the minutes ionization is powered in maintenance mode (power settings 1-8). Use the ionization up and ionization down button to set the desired duration. Push the calibrate button to proceed to next program step. 0 minutes (default)

5 Program Step -05: ionization delay is displayed, then the length of time the system waits before beginning the ionization cycle. Use the ionization up and ionization down button to set the desired wait time. Push the calibrate button to proceed to next program step. 45 minutes (default)

6 Program Step -06: plate power % is displayed, then the % factor of plate power that is applied by the controller settings. This setting can be used to reduce overall power to the plates. Use the ionization up and ionization down button to set the desired power factor (99%, 75%, 50%, or 25%). Push the calibrate button to proceed to next program step. 100% plate power (default)

7 Program Step -07: over current delay is displayed, then the number of milliseconds delay for the over current protection circuit. 3.2 is the default. A higher number allows greater current before the system goes to self protect mode and protect against shorts and too conductive water. This setting should not be changed without cosulting your dealer or the factory. Push the calibrate button to proceed to next program step. 3.2 over current delay (default)

8 Push ionization down button to exit system programming.


Installation

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System Programming

Water Chemistry

water chemistry 36

WHY YOU SHOULD TEST YOUR POOL WATER?

1. The goal of every pool and spa owner is to have sparkling, clean water. Unfortunately, a variety of undesirable substances will often enter a pool or spa. Such items can make the water unhealthy. There are bacteria on every person’s body that can get into water; some forms can cause infections or rashes. Bather perspiration and urine break down to undesirable nitrogen compounds and Mother Nature can also contribute: rain, algae spores, leaves and other organic materials. All of these necessitate the use of a sanitizer (Active Oxidation and latent bacterial and algae protection). Your CL Free Water Systems, LLC Pool/Spa system, provides active oxidation in the flow cell when the pool pump runs and latent bacterial and algae protection with Ionized Copper.

2. Everything that the water touches is affected by the chemistry of the water itself. The surfaces of the pool or spa, the heater, the filter, the steps, and the pump can be damaged if the water is either corrosive or scale forming. The goal of the water analyst is to keep the water “in balance” so it does not damage the pool and its equipment. By maintaining each test factor of pH, alkalinity, and hardness within the Ideal Range, the water will not harm the pool or spa surfaces and components. Since most water has the tendency to either corrode or leave small, crusty “scale” deposits, it is important to properly balance the factors of pH, total alkalinity and hardness. Depending on where you live, the water can contain a variety of minerals. These minerals directly affect whether the water will corrode, scale or be in balance.

3. How much treatment product to add - By testing the water and using treatment tables found in most pool test kits or the product label, the analyst can closely predict how much of the treatment product will be needed. This testing avoids a costly overdose of product that can create larger problems than the original one.

water chemistry 37

WHAT TO TEST WEEKLY

1. Copper – Ionized Copper provides latent bacterial protection in water at 0.15 ppm (parts per million), protection from algae at 0.5 – 0.7 ppm. If your pool/spa is exposed to a high organic load (leaves, dust, high bather load, etc.), keep the copper level closer to 0.7 ppm. The ideal Copper Level of pool or spa water is 0.5 – 0.7 ppm.

2. pH – pH is effectively your Water Balance. pH is the measure of the acidity of the water. The pH scale extends from 0 to 14 with 7 being neutral. As the pH moves lower than 7.0, the water becomes more acidic and tends to be corrosive; as pH moves up higher than 7.0, the water becomes less acidic (or more basic) and could lead to a scale forming condition. Temperature plays a role in water balance and must be considered when determining ideal levels in pools or spas. The reason is because in warmer water a substance called calcium carbonate tends to fall out of solution more rapidly, thus leaving behind scale deposits. For example, in 60°F (16°C) pool water, a good practice would be to keep the pH level closer to 7.6 if the alkalinity and hardness are in the ideal range. In 80°F (27°C) pool water, a pH of 7.3 would be best. A professional pool and spa retailer and/or many web sites can provide a “saturation index” calculation to target your ideal pH level. The ideal pH of pool or spa water is 7.2 - 7.6.

WHAT TO TEST MONTHLY

3. Total Alkalinity - To avoid undesirable changes in the pH level the alkalinity must be maintained in the ideal range. Total alkalinity helps to stabilize the pH of the water so that treatments or environmental conditions will not rapidly raise or lower the pH to a damaging level. Use of a “saturation index” will help target the ideal Total Alkalinity level for your pool/spa. The ideal Total Alkalinity of pool or spa water is 100 -150.

water chemistry 38

WHAT TO TEST SEMI ANNUALLY

4. Total Hardness - When a hardness level is too low, it can cause corrosion. If it is too high, it can settle or “drop out” of solution as chalky white or tan colored deposits on component surfaces. These deposits, often referred to as “scale,” could eventually lead to clogged pipes, or damaged motors, heaters, and filters. Use of a “saturation index” will help target the ideal Total Hardness level for your pool/spa. The ideal Total Hardness of pool or spa water is 200 - 400.

5. Nitrate and Phosphate - The combination of nitrate and phosphate is the building block for algae. Fortunately, if one is eliminated the other cannot produce algae on its own. High Nitrate and Phosphate levels are common in seasonal pools that have just been reopened because nitrates can enter the water from leaves or debris that were recently removed. Other sources of nitrate intrusion come from well water supplies and localized spraying of garden or crop fertilizers. Since nitrates can only be removed by draining the water, most water treatment experts have focused on removing the other algae nutrient, phosphate. A variety of phosphate removal products are available to eliminate and control Phosphates. The ideal Phosphate level of pool or spa water is 0.

6. Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) - A total dissolved solids reading indicates the amount of dissolved substances or minerals in the water. These come from the original water supply and from treatment chemicals. As water evaporates, the dissolved solids remain and over time continue to increase. A high dissolved solids level can lead to corrosion. If the water exceeds 1,500 ppm, investigate ways to replace a portion of the water supply. Most pool stores have a dissolved solids meter designed to measure TDS in seconds. The ideal Total Dissolved Solids level of pool or spa water is less than 1500.

water chemistry 39

ALGAECIDES & SHOCK

1. Algaecides - The copper residual level maintained by a CL Free pool/spa system is the best defense against algae and is usually all that is necessary. Although not normally needed, algaecides may be used in conjunction with a CL Free pool/spa water system. Since the pool already has copper in it, select a different based algaecide.

2. Shock - If algae are observed, brush the spot thoroughly. Ensure your pH, copper and phosphate levels are adjusted correctly.

With extreme algae conditions, manually shocking the pool is the best option. Shock the pool water with either non-chlorine shock, liquid or granular chlorine. Because your pool water is not stabilized, if you use a chlorine based shock, do so after the sun has set as UV destroys the chlorine. Filter for the next 24 hours, brush and vacuum any remaining alga, backwash the filter.

After shocking, check to ensure your pH, copper and phosphate levels are adjusted correctly. Algae can deplete the copper level so you may need to adjust your Ionizer setting.

notes

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