If it hurts, stop! This seems a little simplistic, but I've noticed a lot of simple-minded people out there. Don't ignore warning signs such as: any

If it hurts, stop!

This seems a little simplistic, but I've noticed a lot of simple-minded people out there. Don't ignore warning signs such as: any swelling in the eyes or face, rashes, redness, or difficulty in breathing. If any of this is occurring, stop what you're doing.

Good general rules of hygiene include:

Always wash your face before putting on theatre makeup. This keeps dirt, skin oil, and old makeup from imbedding into your pores, or transferring into your theatre base. I always make sure my hands are clean too.

Keep your tools clean and dry. Be sure to wash sponges and brushes in cool soapy water. Frankly, it'll serve your purpose to have new sponges for every performance.

Use a small spatula to scoop lipstick, makeup, etc. Do not share mascara, eyeliner, or anything else you can not get

out of the container with a small spatula. Always completely wash off your makeup; never sleep on it. Follow

your face-wash with a mild astringent and a lotion suitable for your skin type.

If you suspect that you have sensitive skin, a chronic skin condition or a tendency for acne, you will be wise to invest in your own makeup. Don't share it! You will protect yourself and others.

Objectives◦Explain why the use of makeup is necessary

on television◦Differentiate between character makeup and

straight makeup◦List the materials and products used for each

layer of makeup application◦Cite common considerations when selecting

the costumes for a production

Important Terms◦Base◦Blending◦Character makeup◦Crème Makeup◦Foundation◦Highlight

Important Terms◦Pancake Makeup◦Prosthetics◦Shadow◦Spirit Gum◦Straight Makeup

Introduction◦Makeup is the collection of various cosmetics

and materials that are applied to the skin. These cosmetics are necessary for all studio productions on both male and female talent. Even news anchors, although not considered actors, wear makeup when on camera. This lesson introduces different kinds of makeup products, the uses of each, and some application tips.

Why is Makeup Necessary on Television?◦Performers placed under bright 32K white

light look gray, pasty, flat, and unattractive without makeup

◦When using digital video, images are so sharp that even the slightest imperfection on the skin is greatly magnified on television.

◦Skin blemishes and dark circles under the eyes, acne, rashes, bruises, five o’clock shadows, and wrinkles that are insignificant in real life, are magnified on television

Why is Makeup Necessary on Television?◦Many performers resist wearing makeup, but

they need to understand it is a necessity◦Being evenly lit means that practically all

shadows are removed from the talent’s appearance

◦A face without shadows does not appear to have any depth; it looks flat

◦A face without depth, on a television screen, appears blemished and flat, like it belongs in a horror film, not a professional television production

Why is Makeup Necessary on Television?◦Most people performing on television want to

be as attractive as possible◦Sometimes the best way to convince a

performer to wear makeup is to record some tape to let them see how they look without it

◦The resistance usually melts after seeing themselves on television without makeup

Stage Makeup◦Worn for three reasons:

To make the actor look attractive under very bright stage lights

To help the actor portray a character by creating a “look” that is more appropriate for that character

To add three-dimensionality to the actor’s face by replacing natural shadows that are removed by the bright lights

Stage Makeup◦Usually applied rather heavily so people in the

audience can see the exaggerated facial expressions, regardless of their location in the theater

◦ If the actor were to move into the audience, however, the makeup would look garish and overdone

Television Makeup◦Used for the same three reasons as theatrical

stage makeup, but is more subtle◦Television makeup is not applied as heavily◦The talent should not appear to be wearing

makeup at all◦The goal is to create a natural appearance

from a distance of 8 to 12 feet, which is the average distance between a television set and viewers at home

Makeup Styles◦Two styles of makeup:

Painted Natural

◦Both styles are acceptable, depending on the type of program and the director’s goals for the program

Makeup Styles◦Painted Style

The audience can clearly see that the performer is wearing makeup

For example, an actress playing a woman who lived in the 1960s would be made-up with dark eyeliner, long dark eyelashes, and layers of blue shadow because this was the trend in fashion makeup in that era and is appropriate for a realistic portrayal of the character

Makeup Styles◦Natural Style

Enhances a person’s facial features, but does not draw attention to the makeup applied

Female performers often do their own makeup in a completely natural style and add cosmetics based on their character’s wardrobe, personality, or situation

Makeup Styles◦Natural Style

It may seem odd to spend time applying natural makeup if the purpose is to appear as though no makeup was used at all

But consider the alternative: if a natural style of makeup is not applied, the television image presents an unhealthy, unattractive, and unnatural picture

Application Techniques◦Character makeup: makeup application

technique used to make a performer look like someone or something other than the performer’s own persona For example, the performer can be made to

appear older or younger, as a different race, or an alien from another world

Categories include special effects makeup and injuries, including cuts, bruises, scars, and warts

Application Techniques◦Prosthetic: a cosmetic appliance, usually

made of foam or putty, which may be glued to the skin with special adhesives

◦Creates or exaggerates physical features on performers, for example, noses, wounds, swelling, and warts

◦Added to a performer’s appearance based on the character they portray or the action in the scene

Application Techniques◦Spirit Gum: a type of adhesive commonly

used to apply prosthetic items◦Spirit gum is as thin as water and is applied

with a brush

Application Techniques◦To attach a prosthetic using spirit gum:

Brush the spirit gum onto the skin in the area where the appliance is to be attached. Let the adhesive set for a few moments.

When the spirit gum is no longer shiny, gently tap it with your fingertip. If it is tacky and strings of adhesive attach to your finger, the gum is ready for adhesion.

Clean any adhesive off your fingers. Attach the prosthetic item with gentle, even

pressure

SAFETY NOTE◦Do not use spirit gum around the eyes.

Irritation, rash, or inflammation can occur when the chemicals in the adhesive come into contact with the sensitive skin around the eyes.

Application Techniques◦To remove a prosthetic, as well as any adhesive

on your hands, use spirit gum remover◦The remover chemically dissolves the gum on

contact◦To apply the spirit gum remover:

Dip a cotton ball or makeup brush into the remover

Gently work it into the edges of the prosthetic appliance

This dissolves the gum and allows the appliance to be detached from the skin easily

Application Techniques◦Straight Makeup: makeup application

technique used to correct or hide blemishes, make the complexion more even, and generally help people look attractive and like themselves under bright television lights

Makeup Products◦Theatrical

Less expensive than over-the counter makeup

◦Over-the counter Packaged in smaller quantities, so must be

purchased more frequently than theatrical makeup

The amount of powder and fragrances included irritates and dries the skin

More convenient because it can be purchased at the corner store

Makeup Products◦Makeup is available in two forms:

Crème makeup Pancake makeup

Crème Makeup: an oil-based product that easily blends with other colors.◦Colors can be mixed together to create a more

natural progression from one shade to another◦Much better than the greasy products of

yesteryear◦There is a stigma that oil-based makeup

creates problems with already oily skin◦However, natural human oil and makeup oil do

not clog the pores of the skin if properly removed

Pancake Makeup: a powder makeup foundation that is water-soluble.◦It is pressed into a compact container◦Once the most common type of makeup used

by most television and film performers, but is no longer the case

◦Can clog the pores of the skin and cause breakouts

◦Does not blend well with other colors◦Once the color is applied, it remains at the

applied intensity until removal

Pancake Makeup◦Therefore, a very light touch is required to

apply this makeup◦Any additional layers of color must also be

powder-based◦When pancake and crème products are

mixed, a sticky goop results

Makeup Application◦Several layers of makeup are required to

create a realistic appearance on camera◦This is true for both character and straight

makeup applications ◦Makeup should be applied under lighting

conditions that closely reproduce the lighting on the studio set or shoot location

First Makeup Layer◦Base: the first layer of makeup applied –

usually covers the entire face, neck, ears, back of the hands, and bald spot, if present. Also called foundation.

First Makeup Layer◦The first layer of makeup applied usually

covers the entire face, neck, ears, back of the hands, and bald spot, if present.

◦This layer is called base or foundation◦Base is best applied with a slightly moistened

cosmetic sponge◦These dense foam sponges are available at

retail outlets in the cosmetics section and come in a wedge shape

First Makeup Layer◦Cosmetic sponges are effective for applying

base on everyone except males who are old enough to shave

◦The beard stubble on a man’s face shreds the sponges and leaves bits of foam all over their face

◦Use a different kind of sponge on adult men, such as a natural sea sponge or one made of polyester

First Makeup Layer◦If base is applied properly, the performers

should not feel the makeup on their faces at all

◦ If they feel this layer of makeup, it was applied too heavily

PRODUCTION NOTE◦To simplify the process, use the same kind of

sponge to apply makeup on everyone. This way, there is no need to keep a supply of both cosmetic and sea sponge or polyester sponges on hand for each production. However, performers should each have their own set of sponges. Polyester and sea sponges can be cleaned after each use with soap and hot water.

Second Makeup Layer◦Blending: incorporating applied makeup into

the areas surrounding it by brushing the makeup with the fingers or a brush.

Second Makeup Layer◦Shadow: makeup that is three or four shades

darker than the base makeup applied.

Second Makeup Layer◦Highlight and shadow are applied after the

base makeup◦The bright studio lights remove all the

shadows on the face and makeup replaces these shadows

◦Highlight and shadow should be blended◦There should be no definitive line or

separation between areas with only base makeup and areas with additional colors or layers applied

Second Makeup Layer◦Anywhere shadow is placed makes that area

appear to sink into the plane of the face◦Shadow is commonly places:

Above the eyes, but below the brow Below or to the side of the nose Below the chin In the temple area for an aged appearance On the cheek, below the cheekbone

Second Makeup Layer◦Cheek shadow, also called rouge, should not

be placed directly on the cheekbones because this makes the cheekbones appear crushed or damaged

Second Makeup Layer◦Highlight: makeup that is three or four shades

lighter than the are to which it is applied.◦Usually applied to;◦The bridge of the nose◦The bone just above the eye, below the

eyebrow◦Above the eyebrow, on the bony ridge across

the forehead◦The chin and jaw line of men to give the

appearance of strength◦The cheekbones

Second Makeup Layer◦Always keep in mind that the makeup

applied to talent should help the performer portray exactly the type of character necessary for the betterment of the program

Third Makeup Layer◦After the crèmes of various shades have

been applied, the entire face must be powdered

◦The object of powdering crème makeup is to dull its shine and to set the makeup

◦Setting makeup with translucent powder keeps it from easily smearing

◦Never use baby or talcum powder; you must use translucent powder

Third Makeup Layer◦To apply the translucent makeup powder:

Place a powder puff on the powder and work some powder into the puff with your fingers

Gently pat the powder on the face; do not rub the powder onto the face

Use a makeup powder brush to gently brush off any excess

PRODUCTION NOTE◦A bald spot, or a completely bald head, almost

always needs to be powdered to avoid reflecting large light hits.

Fourth Makeup Layer◦Lipstick should be applied after powdering◦Glossy lipstick should not be used because

it causes distracting light hits◦Talent wearing glossy lipstick appears to

have sequins glued to their lips

Fourth Makeup Layer◦Eyeliner rarely is used on men or children◦Women should wear eyeliner only if it

should be obvious that they are wearing makeup

◦It does not look natural and television amplifies the intensity of eyeliner

Fourth Makeup Layer◦Mascara thickens and lengthens eyelashes◦Men should never wear mascara unless

they are extremely blonde and their eyelashes are not visible without it

PRODUCTION NOTE◦A single tube of mascara should never be

used on multiple people. Mascara should never be shared with another person. It is a fertile breeding ground for bacteria. Eye diseases such as conjunctivitis, or “pinkeye,” are highly contagious and could affect the entire cast if mascara is shared. Even if only one person uses mascara, the product should be discarded and replaced once a month.

Makeup Removal◦Cold cream used to be the most common

product to remove makeup and is still used

◦The disadvantage of using cold cream is that it is messy and must be slathered on the face and wiped off with many tissues

◦The face must then be washed with hot soap and water or else the skin will breakout the next day

Makeup Removal◦Makeup Remover is another alternative

Expensive Also messy

Makeup Removal◦Baby wipes are used today by most

makeup artists and performers They are readily available and cost effective Some brands are fragrance-free and may

contain moisturizers like aloe Two or three wipes remove all traces of

makeup without the mess of the other products

Makeup Removal◦Regardless of the removal product used,

the talent should always wash their face with soap and warm water after removing the layers of makeup

Makeup Application Considerations◦Each product brings a unique set of

challenges for a makeup artist◦The action in the production, the

characters involved, and the characteristics of individual performers are all considerations for a makeup artist

Makeup Application Considerations◦Eyes

Always ask if the talent wear contact lenses and if the lenses are “hard” or “soft”

The response determines which application techniques to use and the ease with which makeup can be applied around their eyes


Hard Lenses Do not press too hard when applying

makeup to the eyelids The edge of the contact lens can scratch the

cornea of the eyeball underneath the lid You can coach the person to apply their own

makeup You can obtain assistance from a more

experienced makeup artist that knows how to deal with performers wearing hard lenses


Soft Lenses Pose no special challenges in applying

talent makeup Talent feels comfortable because they deal

with their lenses daily Talent is ware that working around the

eyes is not painful or uncomfortable


Talent who do not wear contacts may be more squeamish when others work near their eyes

Female performers may be more comfortable because they apply their own eye makeup on a regular basis


Men and children may react with unintentional resistance because they are not used to anything being near their eyes they may blink, tear, or move away Just be patient and rely on your personality Try to distract them with constant

conversation You can coach them in applying their own

makeup


Talent who wear glasses may present unique difficulties The glass lenses or the frames can

produce unattractive light hits Have the talent remove their glasses If poor vision or a character trait prevents

removal, the glasses can be tilted slightly downward to direct the light reflection to the floor


Talent who wear glasses may present unique difficulties Another option is to move or re-aim the

lighting instruments in the studio, which is a more time consuming task

Makeup Application Considerations◦Skin Sensitivity or Allergies

The FDA has not officially defined the term “hypoallergenic”

The ‘hypoallergenic” label on some products can be misleading

Usually it means the omission of fragrance If a person is allergic to lanolin or wool, they

should not wear crème makeup and must use pancake makeup

However most people can use theatrical makeup without problems

Makeup Application Considerations◦Men and Makeup Males usually resist the concept of

wearing makeup Not viewed as a masculine attribute in

our society This is ironic because actors, politicians,

and sports figures all wear makeup on television, when in a studio environment for an interview or in promotional product spots

Costume Selection◦Selecting the costumes for a program is

dependent on many existing factors: Plot Setting Set dressing Program format Lighting arrangement And many others

Costume Selection◦Selecting the costumes for a program is

dependent on many existing factors: For example, the type and style of costumes

for a Western set in the late 1800s is different from a science fiction program set in the year 3035

Costume Selection◦The actual program set and set dressing must

be considered when selecting the costumes The patterns and colors used on the set must

be coordinated with the talent’s costuming Both striking clashes and perfect matching of

colors and patterns should be avoided Clashes of color or pattern can be distracting

and cause your message to become lost Perfect matching could cause the talent and

background to blend together and disappear from the shot

Costume Selection◦Lighting◦If the lighting designer uses colored gels in

the lighting instruments, the colored lights will change the appearance of the costume

◦Include the lighting designer’s plans in the selection process to help avoid problems with costuming that meets all the other needs of the program

Costume Selection◦Avoid extreme contrast between individual

items of clothing, between clothing and skin tone, and between clothing and the background; always remember the limitations of contrast ratio

◦Avoid the color white unless the set and other costumes are light in color

◦Avoid the color black unless the set and other costumes are dark in color

Costume Selection◦Costume colors should not match the

background color; when these colors match, the depth created between the performer and the background is lost

◦Avoid the color red, if possible, because red is the most difficult color to accurately process, for both the television camera and the home viewer’s television set

Costume Selection◦Be aware of the chromakey color, if used in a

production. The talent should not wear a color that matches or is very similar to the chromakey color.

◦Avoid flashy jewelry because the pieces of jewelry produce distracting light hits

◦Avoid vertical or horizontal thin stripes and small, busy patterns, such as herringbone. These patterns appear to vibrate in rainbows of color called moiré.

Planning for Productions◦If a scene is scheduled for shooting over a

period of a few days, both the costuming and makeup on the talent must not change from one day of shooting to the next

◦All the footage shot for the scene is likely to be edited down to a scene that lasts mere minutes

Planning for Productions◦To ensure consistency:

Take photographs of the talent on the first day after their makeup and costuming is complete

The brands and colors of makeup should be written on the first day after their makeup chart specific to that performer. The makeup chart also includes the placement and application techniques for the products used

Create a chart that records which articles of clothing each performer wears and the scene in which the clothing is worn

Planning for Productions◦Mistakes happen

For example, an actor has a large wound of a certain shape on his face in one shot and in the very next shot of the same scene, the wound is smaller and shaped differently. Ina third shot, the wound is larger and returns to its original shape. This error in continuity may occur because the first and third shots were taken on a different day than the second shot.


The makeup artist did not accurately duplicate the wound on both days. A makeup chart helps prevent errors in makeup continuity. On each consecutive day of shooting, the makeup artist uses the photographs and the makeup chart to duplicate the makeup application.


The same applies to costumes used in a production. If a scene began with a male actor’s shirttail tucked into his pants, but the scene ends with the shirttail untucked, the shirttail must be retucked if the scene is shot a second time. Costuming records and photographs are reviewed before additional takes of the same scene are shot.

Wrapping Up◦Much practice is necessary in order to become

competent with makeup application and design techniques. Television makeup is almost identical to theatrical makeup, except in the amount and intensity of application. Subtle application is the rule. To gain some practical experience, volunteer to help with makeup for the next theatrical production in your school. A variety of theatrical makeup books are also available through local libraries and bookstores.

THE END

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If it hurts, stop! This seems a little simplistic, but I've noticed a lot of simple-minded people out there. Don't ignore warning signs such as: any