BRECON FIFTY YEARS AGO

The following are a series of articles published in The Brecon County Times published in 1869 describing Brecon 50 years ago, or in 1819. The articles are taken from Nicholson’s Cambrian Travellers’ Guide which was published in 1813. The book is in Google Play.

These articles were written about Nicholson’s travels in South Wales with Brecon as the center point.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Brecon Fifty Years Ago – published December 4, 1869Brecon Fifty Years Ago continued – published December 11, 1869Brecon Fifty Years Ago continued – published December 18, 1869Brecon Fifty Years Ago concluded – published December 25, 1869

THE BRECON COUNTY TIMES – December 4, 1869: - http://newspapers.library.wales/view/3881122/3881127/56/Brecon%20Fifty%20Years%20Ago

BRECON FIFTY YEARS AGO.

The following description of Brecon and places in its neighbourhood is taken from a publication called Nicholson's Cambrian Travellers' Guide," published in the year 1813, and the interesting information contained therein is a sufficient apology for bringing it under the notice of our readers:--

Brecon, or Brecknock, (from Brechan, the son of Aulach, who succeeded to possess this district in right of his mother Marchell, daughter and heir of King Teudric or Theodric,) is an archdeaconry in the diocese of St. David's, containing the whole of Brecknockshire and Radnorshire, except the parishes Knighton, Norton, Presteigne, Old and New Radnor, and a small part of the Gascob in the latter county, two parishes in Montgomeryshire, seven in Herefordshire, and two in Monmoutbshire. It consists of seven deaneries and 124 parishes. The archdeacon has a house in St. David's, and a stall in the choir of the cathedral; possesses the great tithes of the parish of that name near Brecon, of which he is patron of the tithes of Llandew, of the hamlet of Penpont, in the parish of Llanspyddid, in the same county; of the tithes of the parish of Llowes, in Radnorshire, of which living he is likewise patron, and of the tithes of the parishes of Llanstephan and Llanddewi fach he has a tenement in right of his dignity in the parishes of Llanrhian and Mathrey, in Pembrokeshire, called Torrbant, consisting of upwards of 320 acres of land. In the centre o the county, but at the southern extremity of the hundred of Merthyr, upon a gentle swell, verlooking a fertile and highly cultivated valley, is stationed the town of Brecon, upon the conflux of the rivers Usk and Honddu, hence in British it is called Aberhonddu. It was not considered as a principal town till the Norman invasion, and it is certain that it owes its consequence to the demol tion of Caerbannau and the building of the castle by Bernard Newmarch. It does not appear, notwithstanding Camden's assertion to the contrary, to have been inhabited by the Romans, since no traces of this people have ever been apparent, either in coins, stones, bricks, or inscriptions, though many such have been discovered at Caerbannau and at Llanfrynach. The building of Brecon cannot be fairly attributed to an earlier period than 1092. It appears from Leland that the castle was not completed till the year 1094. The wall was perfect in Speed's time, and until the demolition of the castle in the time of Charles 1. Its track is still perfectly visible, and some parts of it are yet, standing On the outward side was a deep foss or ditch, which is supposed to have been occa- sionally filled with water. On this wall were ten towers, of irregular constructions. The entrances into the town were through five gates the two first seem entrances to the Priory, of which there are some remains. On the south-east Brecon is almost overlooked by a hill called Slwch Tump Northward we have another eminence, called Pen y crug, shelving down gradually to Brecon, so that a traveller from Hay, Battle, or Builtb, finds the town below him. On the south side is Cantreff, and a wooded brow, called Clos y coed.

The castle of Brecknock is one of the earliest structures of this description in this country. It was built by Bernard Newmarch, about the year 1094. The outward walls, which are thicker than those of the Roman camp at Gaer, still continue to display the earliest style of Norman architecture. Though the interior of the residence of Bernard Newmarch must be left to conjecture, the form of it remains perfectly visible it was an oblong square, 100 yards by 80. On the east and south the Honddu washed its walls. Hugh Thomas tells us that at each corner of what he calls the square of this building, were two watch towers. The ruins of two of them still remain at the south angle, and upon an elevated and artificial mound, to the north-east, is the keep. Within this fortress, Stafford, duke of Buckingham, and Morton, bishop of Ely, concerted the union of the houses of York and Lancaster, in consequence of which Henry VII was indebted for his station upon the throne of England. Since the confinement of bishop Morton it has been called Ely tower. The ground on this side is higher than the site of the castle, which made it more assailable on the north. There were here, therefore, in addition to the deep ravine or mote before noticed, two additional fosses, occasionally filled from Maenday well. The principal entrance was to the west, opposite to which was another called the Postern, corrupted into Postrwm. Leading from the gate a few yards east, is a stone bridge of two arches, formerly a drawbridge. According to Speed's map there was another of the same description upon the west side over the mote between the castle and the green mound called Baili glas, where the courts leet and courts baron of the lords of Brecknock were held of old. According to a survey of the manor of Brecknock, taken 13 Henry VIII (see Jones's History, v. ii, p. 804), the goodly hall with its costly pendants does not exist. A tennis-court is formed in one of the angles an under-shot water-wheel adjoins the site. The place of the chapel of Saint Nicholas is also obliterated. The castle continued not only to be the seat for the administration of public justice under the lords marchers, but after its forfeiture to the Crown, and until its demolition in the time of Charles I, the receipt of the king's audit and the common gaol for the county.

A county gaol and house of correction has been constructed on the Howardian plan, but so miserably finished that it was deemed insecure, and a strong wall has circumvironed the whole area of the prison and former wall. Besides this gaol the corporation have one adjoining Struet gate, but it is seldom used; they had also a cell near the bridge, over the river Usk, adjoining the gate. The last was taken down in 1776.

The Town-hall was built in 1770 it has a cellar or vault below it. where leather and other merchandise are preserved, above which is the market-house, where hops, butter, and other articles, are sold at fairs and markets. On the first floor is a room for the administration of justice, where the great sessions, quarter sessions, and the county and town courts are held. At the end is a jury room. The garret was formerly a receptacle for military stores but in 1805 government erected a handsome depot for arms and ammunition. Exclusive of the town courts, held on Mondays and Thursdays, weekly, they sometimes hold a court of quarter sessions, in which the recorder presides, and tries criminals.

The arsenal at Brecon is of brick, built very substantially, yet finished with elegance. It is situated by the road side on the east entrance, in that part of the town called Watton, forming a beautiful and interesting object. The main building is 99 feet in length by 35 in breadth, and two stories high, the lower story, 17 feet high, consists of the armoury, 75 feet by 30, fitted up with racks for the reception of 15,000 muskets, bayonets, &c, and 1,500 swords also a cornice of projection, appropriated for pistols, after the manner of the new armoury in the tower. In this street, at a public house, called the Shoulder of Mutton, Mrs. Siddons was born. The register of her baptism is dated July 14, 1755.

The borough is governed by 19 capital and other burgesses 15 of whom, including the bailiff, recorder, and aldermen, are common council men the chamberlains are also burgesses, and have votes in the election of a representative in Parliament. Its population according to the latest accounts amounts to 540 houses, containing 2,576 inhabitants.

Inns.—The Golden Lion, and Swan. Dr. Mavor thought the former negligently if not uncivilly conducted.

Within this borough are two parish churches,St. John's and St. David's, and, within the circuit of the town wall, a third, called St. Mary's.

St. John the Evangelist's, formerly from its cross aisles or chapels, called ecclesiasanctce crucis, and sometimes the church of the holy rood, "standeth," as Leland says, north without the waulle upon the ripe of Honddye." It was either entirely erected or considerably improved by Bernard Newmarch. It has undergone many alteratians since that time, and presents a motley appearance; the prevailing features are, however, gothic.

It stands upon an eminence formerly surrounded by a lofty wall, part of which remains on th west side. Of the Priory, or Monastery, there are now no remains, save the ontward parapet wall, which is very perfect; it stands mar the entrance into the church-yard from the north-west to the foot of the bridge over the Honddu on the south. Near the western pine end of the church is a beautiful circular stone font of the Saxon age. The naive is very lofty, and has been lately ceiled but unfortunately the same decorating and beautifying hour swept away the venerable carved screens from the tradesmen's aisles. The west end of the fabric is intersected by two cross aisles, called "The Chapel of the Men of Battle," and "The Cap- pel Cochiaid," Norman, or Red-haired Men's Chapel," divided from the vicar's chapel (formerly the Havard's) of somewhat larger dimensions. The Red-haired Men's Chapel is on the south side of the naive on the east side is a small recess used as a burying-place by the family of Hughes of Brecon and Tregunter. Still further east are the ruins of a Vestry-room. The steeple is placed immediately over the intersection of this cross, and covers an area of 10 square yards within the walls. It is said to be considerably higher than St. Mary's it contains six bells, and formerly could be entered by galleries from all parts of the church. The chancel is divided from the body of the church by a gallery, formerly the rood loft. Innovation has not effaced entirely the ancient magnificence of this church. On each side are seen three rows of light, beautifully clustered columns, broken off just above the corbels. The tombs in this church are numerous, their inscriptions frequently long, and not remarkable. The names commemorated and situations of the tombs must here suffice. The tomb of Wafers and his lady is surrounded with rails, on the left entering Cappel y Cochiaid, on which nothing remains, save the altar part, on which lie two recumbent figures in stone. The tombs of Reginald de Breos and Meredith Thomas, mentioned by Churchyard, do not exist. John Toweas, of Brecon, April 10, 1587, mutilated and defaced Matthew Towers, nephew of the foregoing, June 1, 1614 near the former, Catherine, daughter of William Awbrey, wife of Matthew Towers, July 27, 1683. Within the com- munion rails, upon a board, Mrs. Elizabeth Berriugton, wife of the Right Worshipful Humphrey, of Bishopstone, Herefordshire, daughter of the Right Worshipful Thomas Price, of the Priorie of Brecknock, February 14, 1626. Below this board to the south-west, are the outlines of the figures on the gravestone of her uncle, Richard Price, and his lady before mentioned. The next was an altar-piece,, and placed in the wall over the alter; of high antiquity the figures are in alto relievo, and represent the ascension. Below the communion, Edward Games, Esq., of Newton, Septerober 9, 1564; Southward, Frances Owen, daughter of Evan Owen, 1692; Frances Williams, of Taley, Carmarthenshire, 1731, aged 45. On the south-west, wall, Frarces Owen and Susannah Brewster, 1719; below, Sarah, wife of Hugh Powell, late of Cwmclyn, 1687, æt. 76; under a flat stone beneath Rees Powell, rector of Aberedw, Radnorshire, May 5,1687, æt. 55 This pious and good man bequeathed £20 annually, for placing out poor children, natives of the town, to trades; £10 to enable such children to set up in their trades £20 for placing out children in various other parishes, and £10 for seeing them up in trades. and several other similar donations. Descending from the communion rails, and passing the monument of Sir David Williams, two stones are placed against the wall, removed upon the interment of a Mrs. Arabella Nixon, who died at the Lion inn, and left her property to her man and maid servant. On the first is an inscription to Morgan Llewellyn of Ystrafellte; the other bears the name of William Morgan, Esq.; both are without dates. Nearly opposite, but further north, is a Welsh inscription to the memory of one of the Lewises, of Frwdgrech, 1580. Near him is the grave of his eldest son by his second wife, Edward Lewis, of this town, who married Annie, daughter of John Nott, of Shelsley, Worcestershire; he died September 27, 1654. Near the north wall, Lancelet James, who died August 18, 1716, æ. 23; upon another stone, Lancelot Morgan, town clerk, March 24, 1753, æt. 29 and Mary his wife, daughter of Meredith James near him, Rebecca James, wife of the aforesaid Meredith James, January 3, 1720, æt. 56. She was mother of Lancelot James, and one of the daughters of Lancelot Herbert, otherwise Harbottle, who died in 1691. On the north wall, further West than the burial place of the Herberts and Jameses, is a marble monument to Mrs. Mary Williams, daughter of David Williams, of Brecon, 1794, æt. 84; below her, further south, Mary, wife of Thomas Jones, of Tredustan, Esq., 1725 also Annie, wife first of Thomas Boulcott, and secondly of Jehosophat Jones 1723, æt.71 At some distance near the middle of the chancel, are interred some of the Gwynnes, of Abercraaf, who settled at Newton, Pontwilym, and Abercynrig, with their children. At some little distance, are deposited the Williames of Lower Gludy. In Cappel y Cochiaid occur inscriptions bearing the following names :-John Price, September 23, 1719, aged 74, and Ann, his wife, August 10, 1699, aged 43; Jenkin Price, barrister-at-law, April 26, 1735, aged 54; Walter Jeffreys, May 19, 1748, aged 71, and Magdalen, his wife, June 14, 1734, aged 50; William Phillips, Esq., recorder, January 18, 1721, aged 58 on the ground several to the Hugheses; Mary Powel, October 29, 1701; Thomas Powel, 1690;

James Powel, 1670; Richard Jones, 1679; Mary, wife of John Waters, 1682; Thomas Bannister, 1737; John Davies, September 24, 1658; Richard Jones, 1694; David Jones, 1708, aged 30; Morgan Davies, March 18, 1727; Hoel Tho. Morgan, December 28, 1623. On the wall, near the Hughes's Chapel Rice Penrv, December 29. 1683; Meredith Penry, A.M., vicar of Brecon, 1676; Meredith Penry, May 6, 1799, aged 84; Tho. Philips, October 18, 1761, aged 50, and Priscilla, his wife, 1787, aged 83; Anne Watkins, their daughter, 1793, aged 53; Frances, wife of Thomas Philips, March 22, 1757; these were of the Pont-y-wal family; John Jeffrey, January 22. 1718; Elizabeth Lloyd, 1732, and her children. Upon the ground in Hughes' burying place Henrietta Wellington, daughter of George Wellington, of Haywood, Herefordshire, 1755 Mary Hughes, wife of Richard Hughes, of Brecon, 25th January, 1718. A monument affixed to the wall is in memory of Richard Hughes, June 13, 1739, his wife and children; another to the memory of Amelia Maria Hughes, daughter of Sam. Hughes, Esq June 9, 1794, and his wife. A hatchment on the interment of Sam. Hughes is over a door, now stopped up. The Chapel of the Men of Battle appears little better than a barn, being only an entrance to the church. The floor is of earth, except where it is covered with tombstones. Just below the door lies Mary, daughter of Evan David, and wife of Roger Jeffreys, of Brecon, 1695, and children; another, with a cross flory, to D»vid ap Jeuan Thomas of Battle, Oct. 2,1674 under a stone nearly square, lies Maud, wife of Meredith Thomas Richard, 1600; in the middle are tombstones to the memory of Thomas Mitchel, of Battle, Jan. 21, 1805, and his father; near this are inscriptions to the Browns of Brecon. This chapel is divided from the Havard's by a wooden partition. The arms of Havard's, three bull's heads caboched, with the motto “Hope in God," are still seen upon the eastern pine end. Upon the wall next the chancel is a marble monument to Joanna, daughter of Edw. Hughes, of Brecon, 1741. She intermarried with Thomas Rodd, of Marden, Herefordshire. She left 10s. annually towards the repairs of Cappel yr Havardiad, and 20s. annually to four poor widows. That tenement is now in the possession of Mr. Allen, of Crescelly, in Pembrokeshire. An inscription to Lewis Havard has been preserved by Mr. Townsend, now nearly obliterated. "Hir sepulcus est Idovicus Havarde Generosus, qui obyt occodecimo die mensis Octobris, 1569 cujus anime propitietur Deus." Another Lewis Havard, of Blonsenni, lies buried here, 1723, and his father-in-law, Wm. Awbrey, of Brecon, 1704; further northward Meredith Watkin, glover. Near the north wall, Elizabeth Harris, wife of Walter Harris, of Gloucester, 1st Jan., 1691; a marble monument to Gabriel Powell, of Pennant, November 5, 1735; below is a tombstone to John Robinson, of Ludlow. In the middle of the chapel are gravestones to the memory of the Prossers, mercers and saddlers of this town. Near the black marble tombstone, John Jeffreys, mercer, 1604; near him David Vaughan, town clerk, 1686 further west a Roger Thomas, 1685. Eastward is an inscription to Jenett Havard, daughter of Thomas Havard, of Carn y Castell, in the parish of Talgarth. One or two persons of the name of Harper, of the Lion Inn, lie here, and the late wife of Mr. Longfellow, near whom lies, to the soutb, Ann, daughter to Watkin Thomas William, who married Evan John Goch, 1623; another stone Gab. Jeffreys, 1766, and his wife. Upon the east pine and wall, Thomas Charles, of Brecon, gent., 1741; upon the same wall, north, a marble monument, to Esther Elliston, of London, spinster, 1737 another, nearer the churchyard, to Henry Williams, 1736, and other relations, including Thomas Williams, clerk, vicar of Brecon, 1787. Within iron railing, Richard Davies, clerk, B.D., archdeacon of St. David's and vicar of Brecon, 1768, and Richard Davies, clerk, A.M., son and successor to Mr. Williams, 1804. In a niche under an arch there are some remains of a recumbent effigy in stone. In the church the seats cover a great number of the tombstones. Proceeding to the west, and entering into the chancel, lies John William Skeel, 1680 near this stone is another to William John William Skwl, 1685 next, Lleiki, daughter of Thomas Davies, 1675; middle of the aisle, Evan ap Richard, tanner, 1507; under the pulpit, Thomas ap Jennn, 1682, and Thomas Williams, 1699; near these, Jane, daughter of Thomas Boulcott, Esq., wife of Walters, 1631; Roderick Prytherch, of Llanspyddid, 1751. Upon the wall near the pulpit are two cenotaphs one to the memory of Charles Powel and his wife, 1740; the other to Margaret, their daughter, 1774. Nearly opposite is a bedaubed stone monument, with the arms of Vaughan, and thus inscribed:-- “Ms. Danielis Price, vir ob pietatem et ecclesice amorem animique candorem et perspicacitatem conspicui cui adfuit vultu gravitas, in factis oequitas, in moribus simplicitas. In tota vita integritas. Qui vivere sic noverit non ignoravit mori. Liberos procreavit 15, superstites reliquit 10. Viz natos 4, natas 6 ex uxore Elizabetha, Gulielmi Awbrey filia. Obiit die 22 Decembris, Anno Dom. 1716, ætat. siico 52" Not far from the graves of part of the Cefnbrith family lie three or four of the Vaughans of Brecon. Further west are two Welsh stanzas, vilely spelt upon the grave of Evan, Peter, and Thomas Philips. Near them is an eulogy more valuable than the laboured epitaphs upon the monuments of the great because it is a short and simple annal: In memory of Isabella Powell, who, though the daughter and only

child of John Powell, doctor of physic, by the vicissitude of human affairs, was obliged to have recourse to servitude for a maintenance, in which station she behaved with such probity and integrity, as gained her the regard and esteem of all who knew her, and having lived respected, she died regretted, on the 4th day of February, 1757." The names of Tobias Williams, Esq., 1663, and Henry Parry, vintner, 1653, appear. The Weavers and Tuckers' Chapel contains but few tombs, and those are unimportant. The Taylors and Corvizors' Chapel is so covered with dirt, diet, and rubbish, that none of the inscriptions are visible. In a niche is a stone effigy long known by the name of Mary Drell. Dr. Milner says the tonsure is that of a layman. Within the rails, where the font is placed, Anne, the wife of William Gunter, 1777; further north a tomb to Thomas Williams, 1676; George Morgan, Esq., 1788 the Rev. David Griffiths, vicar of Merthyr, and master of the school at Brecon, 1769, and his wife, 1792. The churchyard affords little that can interest an intelligent observer. The benefactions to this priory have been rumerous. Bishop Tanner has given in his "Notitia” a list, beginning with Walter, who was appointed, about 1095, by Bernard Newmarch, the founder Robert Salder completes the list. He surrendered the priory to Henry VIII in 1537. at which time the possessions were valued at £112 14s. 2d., according to Dugdale.

The Chapel of St. F!yned, near Swlch, being parcel of the possession of St. John's, fell down about the latter end of the 17th century, and is now only a confused heap of stones; besides, there was also an hospitium with a chapel annexed, adjoining an enclosure converted to a publ coal wharf, near the Watton turnpike; the chapel stood where the Spital-barn has been placed.

The co;lege, once a Dominican Priory, stands at the east end of the town, and appears as old as the time of Bernard fe Newmarch, by whom it is said to have been founded. Part of an old gateway, built in a quadrangular form, still remains also a cloister, with the refectory of St. Mary's Church, and the ancient choir, and naive, or shell for burying. Henry VIII. converted this place into a college, called College of Christ, Brecknock," and joined to it the college of Abergelly. This institution still remains, consisting of the bishop of St. David, who presides as dean, a precentor, treasurer, chancellor, and nineteen other prebendaries.

The Church of St. Mary. according to a document of Mr. Carte's papers in the Bodleian, appears to have been built as early as the latter end of the 12th, or beginning of the following century, but it cannot be concluded that the present structure is of that early date. The eastern window of the chancel is the Gothic of the middle age, and the prevailing style of its architecture indicates that it was not erected till after the year 1515. None of its decorations or pillars have the slightest pretensions to antiquity. Not a single monument, figure or inscription is preserved within its walls. The present steeple, which is abont 90 feet in height, was built in the reign of Henry VIII.; it has a peal of eight bells, cast by Rhudhall, of Glocester. The body of the church consists of two aisles, and on the north-east is the shoemaker's chapel, from which is a door into the vestry, but since the erection of houses close to the windows both these places are become so dark that want of room only compels the inhabitants to occupy the seats in one, but the business usually transacted in the other is now transferred to the Town-hall. The principal entrance is under part of the gallery, in which an organ was placed about the year 1794. The Consistory Court for the archdeaconry is held once a month, under the southern door. This part of the building was divided from the other, where divine service was performed, by a slight partition and railing, about the year 1680. In 1805 it was repaired and improved, the aisles boarded, and two buzaglos placed there, principally at the expense of the Rev. Richard Davies, archdeacon of Brecon, who also erected several new seats in the chancel. No persons have been buried here within the memory of man, nor does tradition recognise an interment within this fabric, yet during these alterations two stones were remored, evidently sepulchral. In the wall of the north aile are some marble tablets, upon which are inscribed the Lord's Prayer, the Apostle's Creed, and the Ten Commandments, presented by Mr. Walker, of Newton and upon the wall of the chancel are two tables recording all the benefactions to this town, as well as the parish of St. John's, except Mrs. Rood's. Of this establishment the unfortunate Dr. Dodd was a prebend, who has recorded his connection with this place in the following beautiful lines, entitled

PIOUS MEMORY."Whither away, fair maid," I cried,As on old Brecknock's bank I lay,

When passing by me I espiedA modest maid in neat array.

Upon her red but well-turn'd armA little wicker basket hung,

With flowers of various hues replete,And branches ever-green and young.

The fragrant bay, the mournful yew,The cypress, and the box were there,

The daisy pied, the violet blue,The red pink, and the primrose fair.

“And why that basket on your arm,With all those fragrant sweets supplied ?"

With blushing look and pensive air,And voice of meekness soft she sigh'd:

"To yonder churchyard do I haste,To dress the grave where Henry sleeps

No maid a truer lover bless'd,By maid more faithful lover weeps.

Stern death forbade us to unite,And cut him down with ruthless blow,

And now I speed to deck his grave,As 'tis our weekly wont to do."

The melancholy custom pleas'd,She left me wrapp'd in pensive thought,

Ideas sad, but soothing, rose,When my slow steps the churchyard sought.

There kneeling on her Henry's grave,Adorn'd with all her basket's store,

The rural maiden sighing hung,Her eyes with tender tears ran o'er!

She rais'd those eyes so full of tears,Which now and then stole down her cheek,And much to Heav'n she would have spoke,

But sorrow would not let her speak.

Yet tho' her thoughts could find no vent,There's One who reads her honest mind,

And the true heart to Him devote,Shall ample satisfaction find.

Then, gentle maid do not fear,Again thy Henry shalt thou meet,Till then thy tender task pursue,

And strew thy greens and flowers so sweet;

And you, whom all around I see,

The same dear mournful task employ,-Ye parents, children, husbands, wives,

The melancholy task enjoy ?

Oh 'tis delicious to maintain,Of friends deceas'd a true respect;

Then bring me flow'rets, bring me greens,Straight shall my parents' graves be deck’d;

And many a friend's (whom faithful loveStill keeps alive within my breast)

Luxuriantly sad I'll seeWith choicest garlands weekly drest!

Come then, the wicker basket bring,Come, memory, and with me go

Each lovely flower that breathes the spring,Affection's gentle hand shall strew.

A tender tear of soothing woe,Shall o'er the graves spontaneous fall,

While Heav'n the hearts still wish shall hear,And to each other grant us all

( To be continued.)

THE BRECON COUNTY TIMES – December 11, 1869: - http://newspapers.library.wales/view/3881131/3881136/43/Brecon%20Fifty%20Years%20Ago

BRECON FIFTY YEARS AGO.(Continued.)

After the priory and castle have been explored, the town of Brecon and the parishes of St. John and St. Mary have few antiquities that can be enumerated.

The wreck of Bannio, or Castrum Bonii, the Roman altar, which Hugh Thomas introduced to the atten- tion of the curious, is now no longer seen. Perhaps some savage Celtic, equally indifferent about the Romans and their works, may have applied its fragments in the erection of a cottage or a pig-stye. It is certain that about the middle of the eighteenth century it retained its situation under the western gate entering into the priory, as appears from Mr. Hugh Thomas's collections for a history of Breconshire, now in the Bodleian library.

About two miles north-west from Brecon is the encampment of Gaer, one of the earliest stations of the Romans in Britannia Secunda, the ill-fated metropolis of the unfortunate Bleddin ap Maenarch, and the parent of Brecknock. It is situated upon the angle between the river Usk and Iskir, commanding a view of the former, and is a parallelogram of 624 feet by 426. The foundation of the wall which bounds this area remains entire, and even the ruins of it above ground are in some places, particularly on the north and east sides, from three to six feet high. Part of the facings is still perfect. The thickness of the walls is nearly 71 feet. It is in every respect similar to the walls of Caerleon and Caerwent. The farmhouse and offices are built on the north-west angle of this camp. This account appears in the English Archaiology, vol. 1, written by Mr. Strange. At present the walls are much overgrown, and in some places concealed by underwood. The whole area is covered with fragments ot bricks. One, inscribed "Leg. II Aug.,” is possessed by the proprietor of the soil, and some coins of Nero and Trajan.

Maen y Morwynion, or Maiden Stone, is a stone standing on the right side, near the hedge, in passing from Brecon to Gaer. It is now fixed in the ground, though it was dug up some years back in hopes of making discoveries, but without any success. The lower part of the inscription only is visible. It represents a Roman citizen and his wife, each having an arm over the shoulder of the other, and the inscription seems to have run thus:-- “Alagicina civis, et conjunx ejus, h. s. (probably hic sepultus) est." There is a cross-lane leading from Pool to a gate upon the old Roman way, about 100 or 150 yards east of the Maen y Morwynion.

The British entrenchment at Benni Wood is probably of higher antiquity than even the Roman camp, but it is now concealed by trees, and its foss and other vestiges defaced.

Pen-y-crûg, or The Summit of the Mount, is another entrenchment not far distant. It is of an oval figure, and surrounded with three very deep ditches. It appears to be one of the most curious and best preserved remains of the kind. It contains within its area 200 yards, running north and south, by 144. The west and south-west sides are nearly precipitous. The ditches are five or six yards in depth. The entrance is from the south. Upon an eminence opposite to this, called Slwch, formerly Penginger, or Pen cefn y gaer, is another British camp, of nearly the same form, but not of equal dimensions, with a double foss, in some places nearly destroyed. The dissenting chapels in this place are four, viz., the first for Independents, the second for Ana- Baptists, one for the persuasion of Wesley and another for Whitfield. The Roman Catholics meet in a private house.

Of the mansions of those once accounted great, little remains. Their grandeur has perished, and their castellated fronts have been obliterated by the capricious taste of later times. Slwch, the manorhouse and piincipal residence of the 'Awbreys, is extinct. The Priory, possessed by the Prices and the Jeffreyses, has hitherto preserved in some degree its respectability. A family of note once was settled at Pontwilym (now a farmhouse, about one mile north of the Priory), called the Havards, abbreviated from de Havre, or Havre de Grace, designating the place in Normandy whence they came. Thomas Havard occurs as heriff as late as 1543, but is described as of Cwrt Sion Young--a mansion, the site of which is on the left of the road leading to Battle, near the turnpike house, It appears to have been surrounded by a mote. One mile west wns Pennant, now in ruins, once the property of Meredith Morgan, and in 1598 it was called Llwyncelin. It became afterwards the property of the Lewises and the Evanses. The ancient families of this district are the Wiliiam-es of Abereamlais,

Penpoint, and Aberbrân, Wynters, Morgans, and Wilkins. By application ard industry, by purchases and improvement of the soil, ethers have risen to wealth and influence.

Within the parish of St. John's are two beautiful groves of wood. One of them, called Vensi, is extremely beautiful, and in some respects superior to the Priory Grove, which is a considerable ornament to the vicinity of the town.

Within this parish the Honddu and the Brynich empty themselves into the Usk. The Escir falls in upon the confines.

Over the river Honddu, within the town of Brecon, are three bridges. The upper one, leading to the Priory, is very old, the arches extremely clumsy, narrow, and inconvenient. The next below once led to the castle: it is of two arches, with an immensely thick prop in the middle, which once supported a drawbridge. The third bridge over the Honddu, near its junction with the Usk, is of three heavy arches. It was considerably widened in 1794.

Brynich (from Bryn hill, and eich water) is an inconsiderable river, which passes about one mile below the Watton turnpke gate, but is intercepted in its progress to the Usk by the Brecknock canal, which arrests its current, and commands its assistance in carrying coal and other articles.

The general market day is Saturday; another, smaller, is on Wednesday, and for cattle on Fridav, weekly. There are five fairs in the year, viz., first Wednesday in March, May 5, July 5, September 9 and November 17, principally for cattle.

The mail-coach takes the road through Gloucester, Monmouth, Abergavenny. Brecon, and Carmarthen, to Milford, every night in the week, excepting on Tuesday, and Friday on the return.

The most fascinating attraction of the town is its delightful walks. One of them is traced on the margin of the noble Usk; the other called the Priory walk, is a luxuriant grove impendant over the brawling Hondny. “Few towns" says Sir Richard C. Hoare, “surpass Brecknock in picturesque beauties The different mills and bridges on the rivers Usk and Honddy, the ivy-mantled walls and towers of the old castle, the massive and embattled turretand gateway of the priory, with its luxuriant groves, added to the magnificent range of mountain scenery on the south side of the town form, in many points of view, the most beautiful, rich, and varied outline imaginable."

The Monuchdenny, or Pennervaen, is a very high mountain on the south side of the town, which from the quickness of its ascent, and pointedness of its summit, bears a miniature resemblance to Cader Idris, as seen from Dolgelly.

Christ Church is separated from the town of Brecon by the river Usk, to which part of the ancient wall surrounding the College precinct nearly adjoined thence it continued directly southward to the lane leading from St. David's Church to Llanfrynach, along which it turned west for a few hundred yards, then north by east to the turnpike road, where it became a fence upon the south side to the foot of the Usk bridge. Within this nearly oblong square (which is extra parochial) are the ehurch, a dwelling-house, the residence of two or three bishops of St. Davids, a barn and outhouses, a school-room with rooms above, two small cottages adjoining two cottages, formerly making part of the porter's lodge, three or four more upon the west side of the road leading from the church, and five or six pieces of excellent pasture and meadow ground, upon part of which near the road to Llanfrynach, was formerly a “fair wood." At an early period there was a house of priory here of dominicans, some of whom were laymen. and a church belonging to the monastery, dedicated to St. Nicholas, but when and by whom founded is uncertain. Not a name has been transmitted to posterity, except that of Richard David, who was the last prior, and surrendered it to Henry VIII. In 1283, Thomas Beck, bishop, of St. Davids, conceived an intention of founding a similar establishment at Llangadoc, in Caermarthensbire. This intention failed, but was revived by Henry Gower or de Gower, at Abergwili. The various dignities which attached to the church of Llangadoc continued in Abergwili till 1531, when bishop Rawlins representing the inhabitants of Brecon of that time “as a parcel of illiterate and beggarly savages, ignorant alike of their duty to God and man;” --or in the regal phrase of Henry IV, “barefooted rascals,"—prevailed on our dread sovereign Henry VIII, to translate the corporation of Abergwili to Brecon, and to become the founder, or as Hugh Thomas calls him, the "confounder" of Christ's College, in order that the prelate or his dignitaries might improve the morals and amend the manners of the kings liege subjects in this vicinity. They continued in quiet possession of their revenues, their bishops occasionally residing among them at this manse near the church, until the civil war in the time of Charles I, when this establishment was seized by the puritans, its plate, ornaments, and vestments

stolen, and the building nearly pulled down. It seems formerly to have consisted of two aisles running the whole length of the present church yard, as appears from the foundations of the pillars still visible. In 1660, on the restoration of the monarchy, Dr. William Lucy was consecrated bishop of St Davids. He attended to the rebuilding of the church, and in 1666 the building was completed as it appears at present. Upon the left, entering the church, was Awbrey's chapel, separated from the naive by a wall, part of which remains. In this wall was formerly an arch, perhaps supported by pillars upon each side, in continuation of the range whereof parts of the plinths appear. After the church was nearly destroyed in the time of Charles I, the arch was filled up, and a wall on each side built, where the pillars stood. The building as it now appears was only the choir and chancel of the old church; it is in length from the door to the eastern pine end wall, in which there is a magnificent but expensive Gothic window, 63 feet long and 25 in breadth. Over the door, on entering, is a small bell, with the following inscription upon it :-- “Venite exvltate lavr: womock :rev. apisc. 85." Upon the east pine end is a beautiful stone cross, removed from the ruins of the Awbrey Chapel, and placed there in 1806. On entering the church, the stalls of the deans and prebendaries are on each side. On the right, close to the door is that of the bishop, having a wooden canopy over it, and inscribed “Dominus Epus Becanus." After this follow the other stalls of the other prebendaries, upon which the names of the respective parishes annexed to their prebends are painted. A stone, forming the threshold under the door at the entrance, bears an ornamented cross, with the following inscription in ancient characters: -- “ Hic jacet Llewelinus ap Howel cujus animæ propicietur Deus, amen." Not far from this last stone is another, upon which are sculptured the outlines of a female. The traces of the canopy over her head are nearly defaced, and the features of the face entirely so. It may commemorate the interment of the mother, wife, or sister of Sir David Gam. Another stone, near that of Morgan ap Llewelyn, contains an inscription of greater antiquity. The cross upon it is plain, and from the escallops upon each side John Hill, of Almley, in Herefordshire, may have made a pilgrimage to the Holy Land, and might have been a friar ot this bouse. Another stone bears the name of Edward Games, of Tregaer. In the middle of the church is a stone, with a cross flory, supported by a shield, with the arms of Cradoc ap Gwilym, impaling Walbeoff, having the following inscription round the edge, and continued in the middle:— "Here lyeth the body of John Thomas Llewelyn, of Cantreff, who married Margaret, the daughter of Thomas Walbeoff, of Llanhamlach, esq.; they had issue, Thomas, Rees, Walkin, Edward, William, John, Howel, Jane, and Nest; he died the 10th day of October, 1639." Other names recorded here, with the dates, areas follow :—Near the pulpit, William, the son of Meredith Games, 1605 within the communion rails, Thomas ap James ap Thomas of Slough, paternally descended of Bleddin ap Maenarth, lord of Brecon, 1605; beneath the communion table, Howel Gwine, 1605 near, Thomas of Slough, Richard Parry of Court Gilbert 1620; Griffith Hattley, M.A., rector of Bringwyn, 1684; under the pulpit, with a long Latin inscription, Owen Griffiths, curate of Brecon, schoolmaster and lecturer, 1688 near Hattley's grave, Anne Hughes, 1739 upon the south wall, Charles Pryse, 1733 upon the same wall, in marble, Thomas Lloyd of Cayre upon a broken stone, near Chancellor Lucy, is inscribed, “Hic jacent Richardus ———— Richardi Milbourne Menevenis Episcopi, hæc obiit anno salutis, 1619, æ?atis suæ—" Bishop Manwaring's grave is within the communion rails, 1653." He nearly rebuilt the college, laid out much upon his dwelling-house, and repaired the school. The liberality of Sir Jeffrey Jeffreys afterwards supported the school and recently it has been nearly rebuilt by a subscription, under the superintendence of the present master, the Rev. Thomas Williams. Uprn the wall, on black marble, Bishop Wm. Lucy, 1677 Martha, his wife, 1676 in sculptured marble, Richard Lucy, M.A., chancellor of St. David's, &c., recumbent, with his wife by his side, and tbeir eldest son, aged 22, in a full-bottomed wig, and a sword by his side. In the south wall, within the communion rails, is an ambrey (a cupbord, to hold sacred utensils) and a niche for holding holy water. Across the church, from north to south, three small marble slabs, inserted lozenge wise in the pavement, record Spencer Lucy, son of Bishop Lucy, 1691 Martha Lucy, daughter of Bishop Lucy; the third commemorates the mother. Bishop Bull's gravestone, within the communion rails, is an English inscription, and another to the memory of his wife, with whom he cohabited 52 years. The Latin eulogium upon the monument is by Archdeacon Stephens, The latter is affixed to the north wall. In what was the Awbrey's Chapel is a tombstone, with the sculpture of a man in armour in profile, his sword by his side, and a ruff round his neck. There remains of the inscription only, “Obiit X die martis, Anno Domini, 159-.“ In this recess are two inscriptions William Thomas, descended from Brychan, lord of Brecon, 1747, and Mary and Margaret Thomas, 1697, 1700.

Llanddew is a village lying in a somewhat detached situation upon the east bank of the Honddu. Its name is perhaps an abbreviation of Llanddewi or St. David, the saint to whom the church is dedicated. This

place is the seat of the Bishop of St. David's, where the archdeacon and dean of Brecon had habitations, and where the prelate, with his other dignitaries and ecclesiastical officers, resided occasionally on his visits to the diocese. The church is cruciform, and one of the earliest in the county, but has been so much altered that it would be difficult to point out the original parts of the building it consists at present of a naive, only intersected by two chapels. The place is dark and the floor of earth is uneven, in consequence of the vile and pernicious practice of burying the dead within the walls. The pews are irregular, the windows lancet, not pointed, the steeple heavy, with four bells. There are no monuments and but few gravestones. This is a perpetual curacy, augumented by Queen Anne's bounty. The road from Bronllys by Talachddu through this village to Tairdirwen, and thence to Aberyscir, divides the church and yard from the ruins of the castle; within the area is an arched well of most excellent water, which supplied a court on each side of the present wall. The side of what appears to have been the castle, contains about an acre of ground, of an oblong square upon the north side the wall of what was the chapel, still remains, in which are three gothic windows the pine ends are in part standing, with a window in each. The foundation only of the south wall appears. There are no remiins of the houses of the archdeacon or other dignitaries.

Adjoining the manor is another lordship belonging to Sir Charles Morgan of Tredegar, called the Alexanderstone and Mara Mota, comprehending parcels of this and two or three other parishes. Nearly adjoining this farmhouse is another called Troed yr harn or rather Tref Trahern, it having been part of the possessions and one of the mansions of Trahern Fychan, lord of Llangorse, who was inhumanly murdered by William de Breos. In the latter end of the seventeenth century it was purchased by one of the Gwyns, of Pant y corred, and is now the property of John Llewelyn, Esq of Penlle'r gaer. In this precinct may be seen specimens of the best and worst husbandry.

Garthbrengy parish lies on the east banks of the Honddu, about two and a half miles north from Llan- ddew. The parish is mostly sidelong ground, rising rather abruptly from the Honddu. The church is surrounded by a few straggling cottages. On the north and north-east side is a hill or high ridge; hence Garthbrengy has been conjectured to mean Gallty bryn gu, (the woody ascent to mount pleasant). The church consists of a naive and an aisle on the north equal in breadth to the church, separated by three pillars and gotbic arches, the roof pannelled fret-wise, the naive is barn-roofed, the pulpit resembles the section of a meal-tub near it are the steps to the rood loft, the loft taken down. Not far distant is a little bell, formerly rung on the elevation of the host in the time of mass. The tower contains four small musical bells. In the chancel lie many of the Gwyns.

Upon the north banks of the Usk river occurs the place where the Escir falls into the Usk, called Aberescir. A church stands upon the west bank. The Sarn Helen, in its progress from Gaer to Neath, here united itself with the Via Julia, and crossed the river Escir a little higher up the stream than the church, and thence proceeded along the present road, or near it, to Aberbran, where it crossed the Usk, pursued the turnpike road to within a few yards of Bettws or Penpont Chapel, where the two ways separated-one south-south-west to Neath, the other nearly due west to Carmarthen.

Trallwng (perhaps corrupted from Tre'r lleng, "The Town of the Legion") contains a church, situated half way up an ascent from the Usk, rising north. At the west end is a kind of steeple, with one bell. The seats belonging to the houses of Penpont and Abercamlais are in the chancel. Tombs appear to the memory of the Lloyds and the Williamses.

(To be continued.)

THE BRECON COUNTY TIMES – December 18, 1869: - http://newspapers.library.wales/view/3881140/3881145/51/Brecon%20Fifty%20Years%20Ago

BRECON FIFTY YEARS AGO.(Continued.)

To Merthyr Cynog, pass the church of Battle, placed upon an eminence on the east side of the Escir river, three miles from Brecon. It is a low edifice, surrounded by a cemetery, bounded by a wall. A few straggling houses give this place the name of a village. History has fixed this spot as the scene of action where the fate of Breconshire was decided, upon its attack by Bernard Newmarch. The vestiges which indicate such an event are, a well called Ffynon Pen Rhys, a lane called Heol y Cymri, and a Maen hir, or long upright stone, below the church, on the south side. No vestige remains to recall this event. Half a mile eastwards from Battle appears the stately residence of the Rev. Thomas Watkins, vicar of Llandevalle. Upon the wall of an inner court is the following inscription:-- “ Pennoyre Watkins, armiger, pater ille optumus, et vir venerandus, terram circumjacentum emit et eccoluit, donum cedificavit filius ipsius Thomas, A.M., F.R.S., F.A.S., nepotulus ille charissimus penaur, fundamentum jecit Anno Christi 1799. Eheu! sicut omne humanum peribit. Th. Watkins." From the windows of this house are three most beautiful views. On the east, through a small vista, are seen the village of Llanddew, the residence of David Gam, called Peytyn Gwin, and in the background the Black Mountain beyond Talgarth; from the library, in which is a capital picture of our Saviour bearing the cross, by Correggio; looking west is the vale of Usk, with the highly ornamented grounds above Penpont, beyond which is Abercamlais, and the mountains in Llywel and Devynock close the scene; nearly opposite is the gradually rising knoll of Benni, covered to the top and on all sides with wood, beyond which appear the precipitous and majestic summits of the Beacons. About one mile further up the banks of this river is the mansion of the late Peter Chabert, Esq., aid-de-camp to Lord Waldgrave at the Battle of Minden, and now of his widow, Mrs. Chabert, built about 1769.

Merthyr Cynog, or Saint Cynog, lies about four miles north of Mrs. Chabert's mansion. Cynor, or Canoe, was the illegitimate son of Brychan Brecheinog. He was slain or murdered in one of the early eruptions of the Saxons into Wales in the fifth century, on the summit of a hill in this parish, nearly opposite Castle Madoc, called Vanoleu, and, according to Owen, was buried in Merthyr church. The edifice which remains does not appear to be of an earlier date than the Norman era. It is situated upon a lofty ridge between the vales of Escir fawr and Escir fechan, in nearly the centre of the parish. It resembles a large barn, in which some divisions are, like pens for sheep, thrown in disorderly regularity, to rot, when unfit for use. Among the ancient tombstones which remain appear the following names and dates :-David ap David Morgan, 1602 Roger sonne to John ap Lien ap Morgan ap Sir David Gam of Peyton, knight, 1600. The uncultivated parts of this parish consist of two vales, the vale of Honddu and the vale of Escir, the latter of which diverges into two forks or dells at Pontfaen the west is called Escir fechan and Escir fawr. These vales have much the same appearance as the Honddu, but are more bare of wood near their sources. Upon their junction, however near Pontfaen, the narrow glen in which their united streams flow becomes extremely picturesque, and, in following its numerous stations, furnish studies for the pencil.

Though the direct road to Builth does not suppiy the amusement of a wider circuit, yet it contains some objects of curiosity, Two miles to the north-west is a very large British encampment, somewhat oval, surrounded by three deep and broad entrenchments. There is no account of it either in Leland, Camden, or any of the great antiquaries. It occurs upon the left side of the road, just opposite to where you see Llandevaylog on the right. The church of Llandevaylog is two miles five furlongs on the way to Builth, upon the bank of the Honddu. Like most of the edifices for religious purposes in this county, it is barn roofed and unceiled. It consists of a naive only, with a tower at the west end. in which are four bells. The gravestones bear the names of the Powels of Castle Madoc, the prytherch of this place. Upon a stone forming the threshold at the entrance are rudely cut the following letters:-- “Catvc"-- Cattwg or Cadocus. Against the steeple of the church is another relic of early days. It is an upright stone 2½ yards, and across its broadest part 4¾ feet. It has been denominated by different antiquaries, Roman, British, and Saxon. Tradition has placed it upon the grave of Brochwell Yseythrog. Mr. Jones infers, from the legend called “Cognacio Brychan," preserved in the Cottonian library, and copied in the appendix to his first volume of the History of Breconshire, that it is the place of interment of

Rhain or Drem Dromrhudd, one of the sons of Brychan Brecheiniog. To this church belongs a chapel of ease, lately rebuilt, principally at the expense of one of the Powels of Castle Madoc, situated also on the road to Builth, called Llanvihangel fechan (St. Michael's the lesser), and sometimes the Lower Chapel, two miles three furlongs. This chapel is a light neat ceiled structure, the floor well flagged, and surrounded by a walled cemetery, with some inscriptions in memory of the Powels of Castle Madoc.

Gwenffrwd, or Waun y ffrwd, “The meadow of the torrent," seems no way descriptive of the situation of this mansion--now a farmhouse. It was formerly possessed by the descendants of Bleddin ap Maenarch for several centuries.

On the west side of Llandevailog, near the commencement of its south boundary, and thence in a line to the north, is a common, or waste land, near which is a tenement called Sarnaw, whence Mr. Jones conjectures that the Sam Helen pursued its course from Gaer to Cwm in Llanyre along this ridge, entering the parish of Merthyr Cynog, leaving the summit of the mountain as it rises, and the vale of Honddu to the right or the east, and so on in a direction nearly from north to south until it crossed the river and the road from Brecon to Mass y Genffordd, about one mile beyond the Upper Chapel, where its remains are still visible rurming in a straight line towards Maes mynis.

In the vale of Honddu, when we come near Llanfihangel fechan Chapel, the horizon of the Vanoleu forms a kind of amphitheatre, the ascent rising almost precipitously. At the same time a cottage appears to cling to the side of the mountain near the top to the left is a beautiful knoll, covered with wood near to the summit, on the right, is a projecting rock, which completes the landscape.

Beyond Llanfihangel fechan, on the right, is Castell Madoc, perhaps so called from Madoc,' the third son of David ap Rhys y ddimau. The house was built in 1588 by Thomas Powel, who married the daughter of Watkin Vaughan. Before this time it was a castellated mansion, with a keep for prisoners, upon an elevated artificial mound, the latter of which still remains adjoining the farmyard. The last of the Powels were three children, who all died single. The survivor Catherine devised the property, charged with annuities, to the Reverend Hugh Price, son of her aunt, and afterwards to his son. After passing the woods near Castell Madoc. the remainder of the valley is principally tillage ground.

At Duffryn Honddu chapel the Honddu is joined by another stream, of nearly the same size, called Llogin, whence the dingle is crossed by the road to Builth, which separates from the road to Maes y Genffordd on Rhoȝ y capel, about a quarter of a mile beyond the chapel, and diverges to the north-east. Following for a short distance a dell called Cwm Bogin, or Cwm Halogyn, we penetrate into the mountains, which form one-half of this parish--a tract on which scarcely a house is to be seen, except a few cots at the head of the Honddu, called Pentre Blan dol Honddu. The right of common is the principal advantage here, as the holders of small farms raise very little more corn than will supply their own families.

Llangynog, or St. Cynog, lies on the right. The church is a modern building, placed in an exposed mountainous district. The verdure of Llanddewir cwm makes its appearance some weeks before the russet or snow has disappeared from this howling region.

Llanddew ir Cwm, or St. David's in the Vale, has nothing attractive in its appearance. Two families of opulence resided here in the seventeenth century, one a branch of the Lloyds of Caerau, and the other Vaughan of Aberdihonw. The river Dihonw, falling into the Wye near this house, is a corruption (according to Mr. Theophilus Jones) of Du hawn wy. The land in this parish is chiefly arable, and it contains several luxuriant groves.

A little further on the left is Maesmynis, a poor-built church, situated upon an eminence between the rivers Irvon and Dihonw, has a ceiling divided by cross ribs, and boards are placed under the tile, formed into 72 panels, on each of which are two lions sejant, with scrolls under them, with the words "Nal," or "Nor is this," in German text. The parsonage house and barn are poor buildings ad- joining the churchyard.

Within one mile of Builth, at the foot of another bill, there is an old bridge over the Dihonw river, which unites with the Wye a little to the left. On the left is a very considerable fissure in the rock, through the portal of which the river forces its way in a foaming cascade.

According to Dr. Mavor (see his tour in “Modern Travels," p. 42), the road to Builth is impassable for carriages, or, if attempted, four horses are necessary to the lightest vehicle, and to reach Aberystwith in safety it is necessary to drive round by Llandovery and Lampeter.

To Crickhowell, reach Llanhamlach, three miles (pronounced Llanhamwlch). The church is stationed upon a state rock; rebuilt in 1804, except the steeple. Adjoining Llansaintfread is a farm called Mannest, or Cwm Anest (Nest or Agnes' dingle), formerly belonging to the family of Walbeoffe. From this cwm the ground rises to Mannest, and about half a mile west becomes a considerable hill, upon the summit of which stands the house, or hermitage, of Illtyd, or Iltutus Ty Illtid, composed, according to Gough, of four flattish stones, three of them pitched in the ground, and the fourth laid upon them as a covering, about eight feet long and four feet wide and high. Upon the two sides are a variety of crosses. It is of Druidic age, and corresponds with Kett's Cottyhouse, in Kent, and the cells in Rollrich, Abury, &c. Such is the account of Gough. The historian of Breconshire says, "This venerable relique of antiquity is but a small cromlech, the two stones one and a half yards asun- der at the height of one yard from the ground the crosses appear such as might be made with a ten- penny nail. 'Tis most probable this may have been a beacon, or a watch tower, and afterwards converted into the hermitage of the holy Illtid. At a little distance is a well called Ffynon Illtid. Nearly due north from Ty Illtid is the ruinous chapel (and almost equally ruinous village) of Llechfan or Llanhamlech fan, which fell in 1700."

Scethrog is the residence of John Jones, Esq., one and a half miles. It was once the inheritance of the Pychards, then the Williamses, and Vaughans. The present house was not erected upon the site of the ancient residence, which stood where the mansion house, now converted into a farm house called the Tower, is seen at present. Part of the walls of the old edifice is still remain. Its mame indicates that it was costlleted, and was undoubtedly surrounded by a moat.

Llansaintfread, juxta Usk (the church of Sancta Freda, Ffraid Lian, Bridget, the virgin, or St. Bride or Bridget), one and a half miles. The church is situated close upon the turnpike road, the steeple containing one bell, resembles a beehive turned upwards it was rebuilt in 1690. The Roman road from Caerleon to Bonni runs the whole length of Llansaintfread parish, from Cathedine in the east to Llanhamlach on the west, and upon the highway side, half a mile east of Scethrog, is the stone described by Camden, which commemorates the interment of a son of Victorinus, whose name is now effaced. It was formerly in the middle of the road, but when that was enlarged it was removed close to the hedge on the righthand side. The little dingle, at the bottom of which it stood, is called Cwm gelleddion, or Cwm gelainion, or Cwm gelanedd, the dell of slaughter. Upon the left, one and a half miles, lies Llangasty Tal y Lyn. Crossing to this place, north from Llansaintfread church ascend an abrupt eminence called Allt yr Esgyr. From this summit the prospect is worth examining. Upon the south lies the vale of Usk, with its serpentine river; to the west is Brecon and the adjacent country, terminated by Bwlch Aberbran; north, catch a glimpse of Ponti wal, Trephilip. and the country about Talgarth and in the back ground the Radnorshire hills. Contracting the view to the foot of the hill, the beautiful lake of Llynsavaddan appears surrounded by the pleasing village of Llanvibangel Tal y llyn, the churches of Llangasty and Cathedine, the ruins of Blanllyfni, and the church and village of Llangorse. The church of St. Gastayn is at the foot of this hill, and close to the lake. It is a small, neat edifice, the tower containing four bells. In this parish are two mansions once of great eminence, Tallyn-House and Trebinshwn. The first was the manor house, and the residence of Gwrgan ap Bleddin ap Maenarch Bernard Newmarch, the Wallbeoffes, the Parrys, Davieses, which last sold the estate to Philip Campion Crespigny, Esq., father of the present proprietor. Trebinshwn, Tref-pen-Sion, or Pentre-Sion, Johnston or John's villa, was anciently the patrimony of Watkins of Llangorse. A family of Jones sold it to J. Williams, and he again to-- James, land valuer and surveyor.

At the south end of Llynsavaddon formerly stood the castle of Blanllyfni, of which some fragments only remains, in a small dell upon the borders of a swamp. When and by whom built cannot be ascertained. “In some auncient writing," says Leland, “this castel was caullid Everi castel, and Leveni water caullid Everi-brook. The honor of Blane Llexeni standing in a valley ys in the Walsche Talegarth, where there is yet the shape of a veri fair cassel, now dekeiyng, and by also was a borrow town, now also in decay, both longged to the Erie of Marehe." About one mile north of this castle is Cathedine. The church is sometimes called Llanvihangel Cathedine, and its structure is of the most ordinary kind. The lake Llynsafeddan is called also Langorse mere and Brecknock mere. Concerning ordinary kind. The lake Llynsafeddan is called also Langorse mere and Brecknock mere. Concerning its origin a most marvellous story is recorded in the Harleian manuscripts, 1386. A young man pays his addresses to the lady of Llynsafeddan, who rejects him on account of his poverty. He then robs and murders a carrier, bringing and displaying to her his ill-gotten wealth. He urges again his suit, but was interrogated respecting the attainment of the property he had brought. He confesses to her the means under an injunction of secresy, but still failed to comply unless he repaired to the grave of the deceased and appeased

his ghost. This he readily undertook, and on his approach a voice cried, "Is there no vengeance for innocent blood?" when another answered, "Not until the ninth generation." Satisfied to find the evil day long protracted, the lady marries him, and their issue multiply so quickly that they live to see even the ninth generation but the judgment not following, they made a great feast, when, in the middle of their jollity a mighty earthquake swallowed up the whole generation, and their lands became covered with water. So much for wonderful tale-telling. This beautiful sheet of water is about two miles in length, one in breadth, and five in circumference. It is broadest between the churches of Llangasty tal y llyn and Llangorse, and takes a sweep or curve as it approaches towards the source of the Lynfni, which runs through the middle. The general depth is from nine to twelve feet. The approach to the shore is generally so gradual that flat-bottomed boats only can be used. Three or four ordinary ones of this description are sometimes used by parties of pleasure. The fish of this lake are pike, perch, and fat muddy eels (Anguillis lutosis) sometimes of enormous size. The Llyfni contains trout, but they either do not like the waters of the lake, or the voracious pike deters them from approaching his territories. The pike have been known to weigh thirty or forty pounds each, but are deemed inferior in flavour to those of the Wye; the perch are generally five or six to the pound, but there have been instances of some weighing 2lbs. each. The dorsal fin of this fish, armed with litle lances, protects him from the attack of the fresh water-shark. The thawing of the ice in this pool is attended with an uncommon noise. Upon the sides for a considerable distance from the shore are reeds of different kinds, but principally the Arundo Phragnite, which is of luxuriant growth and great beauty. Llanvihangel Tal y llyn, St. Michael's, at the head of the lake, is a whitened Sepulchre, containing within little besides rottenness and filth.

(To be continued.)

http://newspapers.library.wales/view/3881149/3881154/54/Brecon%20Fifty%20Years%20Ago

THE BRECON COUNTY TIMES – December 25, 1869:

BRECON FIFTY YEARS AGO.

Regaining the road to Crickhowell, Buckland, the mansion of the late Roderick Gwynne, Esq., father of the present proprietor. Within a mile Crickhowell, on the left of the road, was formerly an ancient chapel, called Welsh Llanfair. A field not far from the site of this fabric is called Cae y chrochenwydd, or the potter's field, which was anciently used, according to tradition, to bury strangers in. In a close adjoining is a high artificial mound, covered with underwood, considered Mons placita of the manor, by others a sepulchral barrow, or, from its situation upon the Roman road, an arx speculatoria of the Romans. No other vestige of that people appears in this neighbourhood, except a stone noticed in Gough's Camden, said to be about one mile from Crickhowell. It is now prostrate its dimensions are nine feet long, by one three-fourth feet broad, and six inches thick. It lies near the hedge-side on part of a farm called Ty yn y wlad (the house in the country); the field is in the parishes of Crickhowell, Llanbedr, ard Llangeney, and is called Cae Cynta goffi, or the first horses field. A writer in the Gentleman's Magazine tor July, 1768, makes the inscription to be Tvrpilivs Iacit, veri tr Filivs Dvnocati." Mr. Theophilus Jones says: "The first word is certainly Turpilii, and not Turpiliani, as asserted by Gough the rest may be anything the reader pleases,

As the bell clinketh,So the fool thinketh."

On entering Crickhowtell the old gateway upon the right generally attracts attention. It was the castellated mansion of the first Herberts, and is now called Cwrt Garw, or Cwrt y carw.

In moving towards Merthyr Tidvil, Cantreff, which lies about two miles south of Brecon, is a parish which contains several objects of interest. The church is romantically situated upon an eminence near the river Cynrig, containing nothing remarkable. One mile to the south-east lies Llanvrynith. The neighbourhood of the church and village is antiquarian ground. Tregaer and Caerau are names which distinguish two tenements, one of which was probably the summer residence of a Roman general. A Roman bath was discovered in the year 1775, in a field near the village called Carnau bach, but soon after destroyed. Mr. Hay, of Brecon, however, fortunately took a drawing of it, a copy of which is given in Mr. Jones' History of Breconshire. Several Roman coins have also been found here. A plate of sixteen of them is given in the same work. They are in the possession of Mr. Jeffreys Wilkins, of the Priory of Brecon.

In the beginning of the year 1808, in a field called Cae gwin, part of a farm named Ty yn y llwyn, was discovered under an immense carn, a Cist faen, formed of four stones set edgewise, with a fifth upon the top, without any inscription, and human bones were in the enclosure and on the lid. These stones were cleared by order of Mr. J. Powell, of Brecon, attorney, the proprietor, for agricultural purposes. This was probably the place of interment for one or more British chieftains; for the Cistfaen, or coffin, succeeded the Cromlech or sepulchral monument.

Perhaps in this neglected spot was laidA heart that glow'd with patriotic fire;Hands that the rod of Cambria once had sway'dOr wak'd to ecstacy the living lyre;Some rival Craddoc, who with dauntless powerFrom base usurpers did his country save,Yet felt, like all, th' inevitable hourWhen paths of glory lead but to the grave.

The tombs in this church evince that some of the descendants of Sir David Gam settled in this neigh- bourhood. The soil of this neighbourhood is gravel mixed with loam in the lowlands, chiefly used in raising

corn, and moist and boggy at the feet of the mountains. The rivers Mehassin, on the south-east, and the Cynrig, on the wist, bound this parish, both of which fall into the Usk.

Previous to a descent into Cwmdu, the lofty summits of Brecon Beacons attract our notice. The southermost is the least the other two are higher, and sometimes called Cader Arthur, or Arthur's Chair. Probably the demigod Arthur, and the warrior of the saffle name were very different personages. [See Owen's Cam. Biog] The mythological Arthur is pourtrayed a tremendous figure His head soars above the clouds, and is encircled by the rainbow he breatbs in the zephyrs of spring and in the summer breeze and roars in the tempests of winter. The back of his chair is a semicircular sweep of two or three miles. His quoits (the covering stones of our cromlechau) are dispersed over the face of the principality. His seat is upon the site of Llyn-cwro-llwch. Where his seven-league boots are deposited, time has, in an envious mood, concealed. Leland tells us that “Arture’s hill is iii. good Welsh miles (almost five English south-west from Brecknock, and in the veiri toppe of the hille is fair well spring. This hille of some is counted of the highest hille in Wales, and in a veri cleere day a mane may see from hit a part of Malvern hilles, and Gloucestre, and Bristow, and part of Devonshire and Cornwall. Ther be divers other hilies by Arture's hille, the wich with it being commonly called Bane Brekenianc." Holinshed does not mention the well, but he gives us a wouderous marvel instead. "One mountain in the south, and three miles from Brecknock, is of such hight and operation as is incredible, and were it not that I have witnesses to affirme what I shall speak, I should blush to let the report, thereof passe from my pen. From the top of that bill, called Monuch Denny, or Cadier Arthur, they had often times cast frome them and doune the north-east rocks their cloakes, hats, and staves, which notwithstanding would never fall, but were by the air and winde still returned backe and blown up, neither, said they, will anything descend from that cliffe, being so easterly, unless it be stone, or some metalline substance, affirming the cause to be the clouds, which are seen to racke much lower than the top of the hille!” Camden asserts that "A fountain springs upon the very top of this hill which is as deep as a draw well, and square, affording trout, though no water runs out of it." These are the strious assertions of respectable historians other writers since their time have taken such assertions for facts, and repented them. Sir Richard Hoare, however, declares that there is no such well upon the summit of Cader Arthur. The most southern Beacons appear perfect cones at a very short distance, and in reality do not contain upon their summits above twenty or thirty yards of flat surface. The centre Beacon contains a deposit of rain water, which is sometimes perfectly dry. Its point is 850 yards above the bed of the Usk at Brecon, and about 1,000 yards above the level of the sea. The north-east is a terrific precipice of at least nearly two hundred perpendicular yards from the top to where the descent begins to be more gradual. From the centre Beacon we commad a view of the Bristol Channel from the Mumble Head to Kingroad, with parts of thirteen or fourteen counties. The Malvern hills are objects in this prospect, but Bristol cannot be seen Upon the south-west side the ascent is more gradual. From the summit of this peak the line takes a concave sweep to the west till it rises again with boldness and majesty to the third peak. In this descent and a few yards lower, towards the south, is the source of the lesser Tâf. The west Beacon shews a more flattened summit. The sides, like those of its con- comitants, shelve from the top to the south-west, and break almost precipitously on the north-east, producing that appearance which Giraldus calls instar cathedrae.

At their feet, is the circular pool called Llyn cwm llwch, about one mile in circumference. The lacerta aquatica. or common water newt, called in Welsh Pwdrwhilen, is found in great abundance in this pool. There are no fish except eels, to which our little harmless lizard, the terror of both little and great children, becomes a prey. It has not been ascertained whether this pool is a crater or a pan, an inverted cone or concave bowl. The convulsions which have produced the astonishing rents and disruptions presented in these mountains, and from which a mineralogist would have expected much, as displaying the internal composition of the earth to a considerable depth below the surface, have produced nothing.

In proceeding on the road to Merthyr Tydvil, leave the Beacons on the left, and cross the infant, Tâf fawr river at Cwmdu, eight miles from Brecon, which continues on the right all the way cross the tributary stream called Cryw, two miles, cross Nantddu brook, a mile and a half, a half-mile further Nantddu chapel, situated close upon the east bank of the Tâf fawr, or greater Tâf .It is a chapel of ease to Cantreff. The original endowment was only 40s. per annum, to the minister of Cantreff, for his tedious ride. It has, however, been augmented four times by Queen Anne's bounty. One mile further, cross the Llysenog river; another mile, cross Carr brook Garawen Morgan, one mile; Coed y Cymer, two miles. Merthyr Tydvil, two miles.

To Neath, cross the Usk into the parish of St. David's, cross the Tarell river, and pursue the Merthyr Tydvil road for four miles, when take the right for two miles more on the right to Senny, two miles.

On the same side is Capel Illtid. Towards the farmhouse of Mannest the ground rises, and about halt a mile west becomes a considerable hill. At the summit of this eminence is the hermitage of Illtid, before referred to. Within a few yards is a heap of stones, and the appearance of an entrenchment. Mr. Theophilus Jones thinks this may have been an arx speculatoria in the time of the Romans, especially as the Roman road ran only a few yards below. Such a watch tower, or station of Roman sentinels, may have been converted into the hermitage of the holy Illtyd. At present, a yew-tree grows upon the spot: hence it may have since been a Christian oratory.

Five miles further on the Neath road, occurs, on the right, a large stone, called Maen Llia, at the foot of a mountain called Ban Gyhytch. It stands upon the summit of the vale of Blansenni. This stone is evidently not Druidic: it is a rude rhomb, with the angles truncated, about 11½ feet hii;h and 9½ feet broad, composed of secondary granite. Mr. Jones thinks it was intennded as an object to the eye of the traveller in the time of snow, on entering the glen of Llia from Ystradfellte, whence it is perceptible for nearly three miles, and whence the Sarn Helin proceeded in a line as straight as it can be drawn.

About one mile from the village of Trengarth, a little above the Aber, is a mound or barrow, of nearly the circumference of that of Crickhowell.

Cross the Llia river, two miles, to Ystradvellte, two miles. The church at this place is like most of the churches in this country--crude and out of repair. This is a chapel of ease to Devynock. The Via Helina, after passing the great stone upon the mountain, near the summit of the vale of Senni in Devynock, enters Ystradfellte upon the east confine, when, after accompanying the turnpike road from Brecon to Neath for a mile or two, it takes its direction west-west by north, into the little valley of Neath, and, skirting the north boundary of Ystradvellte, crosses Ystradgynlais a little way helow Blan Nedd. Near this road, after it has departed from the Brecknock track, and upon the hill, before the traveller reaches Blan Nedd, is a stone, now thrown down, called Maen Madoc, a plate of which is given in Gough's Cambden. At a little distance, at a place which he calls Penmynidd, is another stone, having a sympuvium upon it. Upon the north of the village are kilns, the lime from which is conveyed chiefly on horseback.

The vale preserves strong traces of the ravages of some violent concussion which has at some time affected this country. It may be remarked in the Fall of the Mellte several yards below its former channel. In the summer season it runs in a confined rocky channel, till it flows opposite the village of Ystradvellte, when it steals into a small whirlpool on the south bank, where it is lost. The channel however, which it pursues in the time of floods is seen covered with stones for about half a mile, till we come to a cave below. called Porth yr ogof (The Mouth of the Cave). Here the banks on both sides are nearly precipitous. This portal resembles the long and heavy stone mantelpieces over the fireplaces of our ancient halls. On entering this cavern, the rocks upon which we tread are of unequal heights,-- at one step low enough to permit a tall man to advance without stooping, and at the next a child of ten years old must bow his head, creeping upon all-fours. On the left on entering, a nearly perfect dome is discovered, from the roof of which are suspended stalactytes and other calcareous concretions in great abundance, which make a brilliant appearance when lights are introduced, On the same side of the river a little lower and further in the cave, the river Mellte is heard rippling among the stones, and soon after it falls into a tremendous deep and black pool in the centre of the cavern. The whole of the scene is horridly grand. At the lower end of this acherontic gulph, in a black rock, is a vein of calcareous spar, supposed to resemble a naked child standing upon a pedestal, whence it is called Llyn y baban. Here the river is again lost for about 120 yards, after which, in floods, it boils out below, with great fury. On the right is another branch of the cavern, supposed to extend many miles in length, where persons are said to have lost their way. Emerging from this cavern into light, the traveller may observe that the stones on which he treads, as well as the lower strata of the natural bridge, are of firmer texture, and more ponderous than the superincumbent rock, and, if he ascends to the top of the bridge, he will see evidently marks of its having been formerly overflowed with water. The rage of this mountain torrent after its ebullition from the rock is such during a flood as completely to divest it during its descent of the appearance of water all is vapour, foam, and wild confusion. At one time it falls in an unbroken cascade, and produces a misty cloud for several yards round. It then rolls and tumbles in fantastic directions, buffeted from side to side by irregular obstructions of projecting rocks, for upwards of three miles, till it loses itself and its fury in the Neath. Pont-Neatb-Vaughan, three miles.

On the road to Llandovery, on the left, is St. David's, the name of a parish, forming the suburbs of the town of Brecon, though formerly it was detached, and culled Llanfaes, or Llanddewi yn y maes (St. David's in the Field). This church contains nothing attractive in its exterior, yet the building is light and neat, consisting of a chancel, naive, and tower at the west end, in which are four bells. Its interior is ceiled and flagged, the seats painted and nunbered. Over the entrance into the steeple is a gallery. The inscription mentioned in a manuscript in the Harleian collection is nearly effaced, and the stone broken, so that only the two first and part, of the third and last words can be read. The inscription was: "Hic jacet ievan vab iohan vaeson cujus animæ propicietur deus amen." There are almshouses here, with a portion of garden ground attached to each, about 100 yards nearer to the town than the church, given by one of the family of Games of Newton for twelve female decayed housekeepers of the town of Brecon. Another receptacle for the unfortunate is situated upon the banks of the Tarell, in this parish, i.e., the county gaol, secured by a strong outward wall.

To Llanspyddid, 1¾ mile, formerly written Llanspytty, a house of entertainment for guests, an hospitium much different from our inns in modern tinHs, where good refreshment for man and horse was to be had without expense. The church is close to the turnpike road, and though not ceiled it is well flagged, and the seats in good repair. It consists of a naive only, and on the outside is a small shed, containing a bell. The gravestones in the church are numerous, and a headstone in the churchyard bears the name Gustavus Adolphus John, of Llanlloony, Carmarthenshire, who died 1765, aged 40. There is a stone in the churchyard, under which (the tradition of the country informs us) Brychan Brecheinog was buried. It is upon the south side of the church, measuring three feet high. Near the top is a cross within a circle.

Aberbran, one and a half miles, the seat of the junior branches of the house of Abercambiis, is many centuries prior to that mansion. Upon a hill above Aberbran, called the Gaer, are the vestiges of a small British camp, and in the vale below, at the fall of a small brook, running by Bettwas Chapel into the Usk, was Einon Sais's castle, of which not a stone remains. In 1738 this chapel became ruinous, and was repaired, after a law suit, by the parishioners. About 1789 this chapel became dilapidated again, when the late Mr. Philip Williams, of Penpont, rebuilt it nearly at his own expense, erected a wall round the chapel yard, and planted evergreens and flowering shrubs. It wants only an elegant spire to make it a perfect subject for the pencil. Upon the west side is a vault belonging to the Penpont family. Penpont and Abercamlais are both the residences of the Williamses.

Three miles beyond Aberbran, one mile to the left, is Devynock, or Defvnoc, from St. Dyfnog. The church consists of two ailes a strong well-built tower contains two bells. The monuments and inscriptions are few. The church yard is next to Llanfrynach in extent, ard the tombs and gravestones numerous. The pernicious custom of burying within the walls was very properly discontinued about the year 1786. Besides Sir John Davy's benefaction for the erection of houses for five poor people, a house for a schoolmaster, and a schoolroom, there are several others, as recorded upon a table placed in the dilapidated entrance into the church. The whole of the hilly part of this country formed part of the Forest of Brecon, inhabited by wild beasts and uncivilised natives, who retaliated upon their invaders by descending into the vale of Usk for plunder. It was to protect travellers and the conquerors of Brecknockshire against the incursions of the barbarians of the forest that Rhyd y briw Castle was erected during the reign of Edward III. It is situated upon a small knoll, upon the west side of the Senny, near its fall into the Usk. It seems to have consisted of a tower only, surrounded with a walled court. The name of the farm on which it stands is Castell du, the Black Castle, or the black hole or dungeon, where the robbers from the mountains were confined, and frequently executed without trial.

Llwyncyntevin lies oil the right, having crossed the Usk, three and a half miles, near which is Rhyd y briw the chapel was originally built for the accommodation of the family of Llwyncyn tefn; it is now more valuable than the living from the product's of a coal mine.

Cross the Clydach river, one mile, to Trecastle one mile. This place is considered as a ward of the borough of Brecon, and as forming part of the town of Llywel, though it is distanr. from that church and village about half a mile; it consists of one straggling street, formed of thirty or forty houses, remarkable for nothing but a good inn. It is divided by a brook called Llogyn or Halogyn. Upon the other side of the rivulet are some cottages and land, called Tre'r Escob or Bishopstone. Though not a market town, Trecastle has fairs on January 17, April 5, May 21, July 2, August 14, October 14, November, 13, and December 14. From Trecastle mountain flow numberless rivulets, which fall into the river Gwydderig in its way to the Tawe, as the latter widens on the north side of the mountains; while the Usk, upon the south, receives all the streams that fall upon that side. The

vale of Tawe might be conveniently visited from this place. The last arises from a pool, abounding with eels, called Llyn y fan, between the two lofty summits of Ban Brechieniog and the Ben Sir Gaen.

North from Trecastle, a range of hills occurs, connected with those of Epynt, intersected from north to south by two valleys. Mr. Theophilus Jones says, “The Via Julia, from Caerleon to Carmarthen, unquestionably intersected the parish of Llywel, from south to west." He thinks it kept upon the south side of the Usk from Aberbran, and of Towy till it reached Caermarthen. “In Llywel, I think it proceeded nearly along the turnpike road called the Admiral's, from its having been suggested and planned by the late Admiral Lloyd, of Dan yr Allt, and there appears to me to be clear vestiges of it, upon several parts of the mountain, and particularly at Tal y sarn, and so on to Llys Brychan, in the parish of Llangadoc, in Caermarthenshire. Others say this road passes Rhyd y briw and Trecastle, across the mountain, by the Black Cock public-house, at Llandovery, but I never could discover the least trace of causeway upon this line. Antiquaries have adopted the latter opinion from a supposed miliary upon the mountain and the camp at Llanfair y bryn, near Llandovery. The stone referred to by Strange, engraved in the Archæologia, vol. iv., is said to have been dug up on the top of Trecastle mouniatn, near the Heath Cock public-house. Gough gives the inscription thus: “Imperatori nostro Marco Casiano Latino Postumo Pio Felici Aug.,” which may mean anything the reader pleases. It was removed in 1767, at the expense of a Mr. Latham, supervisor of excise, to Llandilo fawr, but the words Imp and Cassaino are now only legible. With respect to the Roman station at Llanfair ar y bryn, after a minute survey of the ground, I have not discovered the smallest vestige of the labour of man. Part of the Legio secunda Augusti may have made this an occasional residence, but does not prove that it was upon the Via Julia. The situation indeed is precisely such as was chosen by the Romans. This capability reminds me of a story related by a gentleman to whom I had the honour to be introduced. An Englishman, travelling in Ireland, observing a milestone upon the brow of a hill, not many yards from Tipperary, on which was inscribed “To Tipperary 11 Miles," said “what the deuce does this mean? the town is under my nose." “O'ch my jewel,” said O Rourke, “I see you arg no admirer of nature! What the dibble signifies the distance ? only look at the situation; did you ever see so beautiful a situation for a mile-stone in all your born days ?" Rhys ap Tudor, in gratitude to his nephew, the wild Irishman, or Idio Wyllt, for hiz assistance in subduing his rebellious subjects conferred upon him the lordship of Llywel; a yoke which did not sit easy. He endeavoured, however to strengthen his interest by marrying the daughter of Bleddin ap Maenarch, lord of Brecon, and the melancholy fate of his brother-in law made it necessary to take double precautions, both against the disaffection of his own subjects, and the power of his Norman conquerors. The heights of Llywel were admirably calculated for the station of his army. To. the salutary measures of Idio W yllt, this district was preserved from the rapacity of Bernard Newmarch.

On quitting Trecastle for Llandovery, the rale of the Uk is deserted. Pass the village of Llywel one mile one furlong. The church, according to Giraldus Cambriensis, was burnt about the latter end of the 11th century, by a contending enemy. The present, fabric consists of a naive and chancel only, with a strong tower at the west end, containing four bells. The rood loft remains. The following names are inscribed upon tombs, and otherwise Edward Jeffreys, 1684: Roger Jeffreys, 1714: Sibill, wife of Howel Morgan, Esq., 1687. On this road a charm- ingly wooded dingle is entered, with the brawling stream upon the left, working its way over a rugged bed of rocks.

Cross the Nant y Meirch brook, to the Heath Cock public-house, three miles. The Gwydderig, devolv- ing from the hills, works its noisy way by the side of the road, till it falls into the Tawe, a little below Llandovery. At the distance of about one mile a fine plan is disclosed, stretching both to the right and left to a great extent, through which winds the pastoral Tawe, which gives the name of the vale. Lime in this district is the commonest manure. The houses are whitewashed. Velindra, four miles five furlongs; Llandovery, three-fourths of a mile.

From Brecon Mr. Malking made an excursion to visit the vale of Tawe, but thinks it might be more conveniently explored from Trecastle downwards, or up from Swansea. The following is an abridged account, from this minute and ingenious writer. A village at the mouth of the small river Isker, where it fads into the Usk, is enlivened by the vicinity of Aherisker Court. On a rising ground is a Roman camp, commanding a view of the vale between Brecknock and Trecastle. Some part of the enclosing wall remains, and the foundation wall is entire.

A quarter of a mile from this place, on the causeway, is what Camden and others have denominated the Maidenstone; it is believed to represent a man and woman.

Llanspyddid is a village on the south side of the Usk, with a small neat church, surrounded by vener- able yews. At a short distance the Brean joins the Usk, where the spacious lawns and extensive plantations of Penpont adorn the borders of the larger river. Abercamlais is a place well adapted to a philosophic and dignified life. It belongs to the Rev. ____ Williams, canon residentiary of St. David's church, and archdeacon of Cardigan, who has also a place near Brecon. In this district are Scots firs, which girt six feet, and upwards. The castle of Devynock is in a state of considerable decay. On approaching Trecastle the softer features of nature give way to the rude vastness of a mountainous district. The Black Mountain, towering above the village, is a leading object in this untameable scene. This mountain, upon which arises the Usk river, is forked like Mountdenny, and it has not been ascertained whether is the highest. In front of the inn at Trecastle the site of the castle may be distinguished, but all its honours are laid low. Beyond is the small village of Llywe1. On crossing the Black Mountain in a southern direction from Trecastle, the ascent is very long, and the character of the mountain impresses the mind with tiresome uniformity; but the descent into the Vale of Tawe is singularly beautiful. This vale supplies scattered white cottages, depositories of lime, and the villages Capel Collwyn and Tywyn. The trreatest curiosity of this extraordinary neighbourhood is the Cribarth lime rock, which is elevated to an immense height. On reaching the level of the vale the sinuous river assumes very charming features. The confined descent to Henneuadd by the railroad is romantically overhung, where a view from the wooden bridge is uncommonly beautiful, particularly by moonlight. There is an incommodious public-house just by. The present head of the Swansea canal is at this place. At Capel Coelbren, between Henneuadd and Ystradvelltau, are the remains of a Roman road.

To Hay, about the third mile, Talachddu, the church of which place is neatly ceiled and tolerably flagged and seated, with a clumsy tower, in which are three bells, Part of the rood-loft, as well as the steps, remain. A branch of the Lewises of Ffrwdgrech were formerly settled here, and had the advowson of the living. There is a parsonage house, a garden of about half an acre, a barn, beasthouse, and 47 acres of land, belonging to it.

Llan y wern (The Church in the Swamp) lies about the same distance from the road upon the right. This small chapel is not ceiled, but has the common transverse ribs under the tile. It is tolerably flagged, and has a shed over the bell. Under the communion table are some tombstones. The estate of Llanywern is inherited by the family of the Bowens. Trawstre, another tenement in the same parish, belongs to tho Philipses of Pont y wal. Wayn y mynach, or Monk's Head, is the property of David Lloyd, Esq., of Blanclydach. Llwyn yr eida belongs to Mr. Thomas Williams. These are the principal proprietors of land within the precinct, who claim an exemption from the payment of tolls throughout the kingdom, as constituting part of the duchy of Llancaster.

Previous to crossing the Talachddu brook, Llanvillo lies one mile to the right. The church is dedicated to St. Milburg, eldest daughter of Merwald, king of Mercia, and abbess of Wenlock, in Shropshire, where she was buried. The feast here is on the first Monday in March annually. This fabric, surrounded by a few houses, has a clumsy ill-built steeple, containing three bells. In the front are twelve niches or spaces, probably once occupied by statues of the twelve apostles. The inscriptions are to the memory of James Parry, Esq 1779; Henry Powell, A.M., vicar of Llangadoc, in the county of Carmarthen, 1731; William Vaughan, clerk, 1709 -- a tombstone with a beautiful cross upon it; in the yard, Thomas Bowen, Esq., of Tyle Crwn, 1764; near the church, Maudlen, wife of John Bowen, of Tyle crwn, 1731.

For dust from dust at first was taken,Though dust to dust be now forsaken,But dust to dust must still remain,Till dust to dust return again.

An eminence called Alltfillo, west of the church, where there is a British camp of great extent, affords a beautiful prospect. It forms an elongated circle upon the summit of the hill. It is 208 yards long, and 46 broad. A foss surrounds it. A little west is a smaller eminence, appearing to have been a Disgwylfa, or station of a sentinel, fortified by an entrenchment. The only mansion here of any celebrity within the memory of man is Tredomen, the seat of the Awbreys for two or three generations.

Cross the Talachddu brook at the fourth mile from Brecon. Pass a mile and a half, and one mile to the left is Trebarried, erected by,William Parry or William ap Harry Vaughan, about the middle of the seventeenth century, at present the inheritance of Mrs. Harley. This house is situated in hollow ground, to which we descend

abruptly on all sides except the east. It has been for many years in the hands of tenants, consequently it is in an indifferent state of repair. The lower rooms contain some good portraits: a black, with the words, "Mora per lu partitia;" General Vaughan, in armour, dated 1560 an admirable portrait in sashed sleeves; a female in the habit of a nun. In the chambers are portraits of Sir John Hawkins, 1591. and of his lady. The soil of the greatest part of this parish is good, and the state of agriculture on the road from Hay to Brecon is exceedingly favourable to the industry and skill of the farmers; but an exception must be made as to the road through this parish, which is extremely bad.

Llandefalle lies at a short distance north of Trebarried. The church consists of a naive of about 60 or 70 feet in length, a narrow aisle on the south, and a chancel 20 or 30 feet long. In the steeple are five bells. In the window of the south aisle is the crucifixion, beautifully coloured upon glass, and in some others of the windows are painted glass. The tombstones are rather numerous. Upon an eminence, being part of a farm called Pwllcwrw, in Llandefalle parish, are the vestiges of a small British encampment. Upon the north confines of this parish is another, and in a lane, running nearly east and west, called Heol Enion, but more generally Penheol Enion, on the side of which, near a gate leading to Crickadarn, is a stone of about four feet high by some supposed sepulchral, by others as markineg the boundary of Enion's property, probably Einon Glyd, lord of Elvel. Returning to the road, one mile upon the right is Tregunter, or Gunterstone, a lordship given by Bernard Newmarch to Sir Peter Gunter, or Gauntd'or. This family removed hence to Gileston, in Llanfigan, after seven generations, and continued in the male line till 1683, when it failed in most of the collateral branches, The present house of Tregunter was built about 1764 by Thomas Harris, who purchased the estate, and devised it to Mrs. Hughes, the daughter and heiress of his elder brother, Joseph Harris, who resides here. This family of Harris was originally of Carmarthenshire, but settled at Talgarth about 1700. The eldest brother Joseph wrote several astronomic and mathematic treatises, held an offic in the Mint, and was esteemed by the learned and great of his day, yet has not one biographer deigned to write his life. Superior to the love of fame, he forbore to have his name printed upon his books. It appears from the inscription upon his monument in Talgarth church that he invented many mathematical instruments, and his political talents were well known to the ministers in power in his days, who failed not to improve on all the wise and learned ideas which greatness of mind, candour, with love of his country, led him to communicate. His reward is in heaven. Of Thomas Harris it is said that he was a great loss to the neighbourhood, as in him the poor always found a most bountiful benefactor, his heart and mansion being ever open to the feelings of humanity. The youngest brother, Howel, was more singular. Born at Treveca, 1713, placed at school by his parents at the age of eighteen, and destined for the church; in November, 1735, he entered St. Mary's Hall, Oxford, continued only one term, applied soon after for orders, but was rejected. In 1744 be married Anne, daughter of John William of Skreen, Esq., by whom he had a daughter, who married Charles Pritchard, of Brecon, surgeon. In 1752 he laid the foundation of the Trevecca house. Many to support this establishment contributed largely, and others sold their all to reside among the family at that place, employing themselves in carding and spinning. In 1756 he offered to supply, at his own expense, ten light horsemen, completely armed and accoutred, to attend the troop of the Breconsbire Agricultural Society, which was not accepted. He, however, raised ten recruits at his own expense. In 1759 he received an ensigncy in the Breconshire Militia, and soon afterwards had the command of a company, accompanying them in their march through various parts of England. Ludicrous scenes occurred on these marches. One part of the regiment sung hymns, another roared loyal or bacchanalian songs. To appreciate so volatile a character is difficult. Religious frensy or the ambition of becoming a leader of a sect, became his ruling passion. Some ascribed to him the intention of enriching himself at the expense of his poor deluded followers, but his will proved the reverse. His discourses were calculated to inflame the passions of the mind to convince by reason and solid argument was remote from his object. He either soothed the elect with dulcet phraseology, or hurled his anathemas against the carnal mind, terrifying this part of his hearers by denunciations of fire and brimstone without end. He was assailed with both prosecution and persecution, which inflamed his zeal and increased his popularity. It has been often remarked that a persecuted cause always prospers. Measures entirely opposite to those have reduced his followers to an insignificant body. Though he reared this fabric with care, and devised it to trustees in order that it might continue to be applied to the religious and charitable purposes he intended, yet it is decaying rapidly, and the holy family of love disperse or die. Mr. Harris was warmly supported by Selina, the late countess dowager of Huntington, who resided principally at a house called

Lower Trevccea, which was adapted for the instruction of young men designed for preachers. That, purpose is no longer in view, and it is let.

Part of Trevecca, as appears from the date, 1141, upon a stone in the front, which is a circle divided by a cross into four compartments, in each of which is a clumsy Batavian angel, with something like a bib and apron, holding a shield upon the breast, and a cross avellane over the head, and near the centre of the cross “Jesus, 1576." This house gives name to the hamlet Trevecea or Trefecca, meaning Rebecca's Home, from a heiress of the name of Rebecca Prosser, who built it. Cross the Tri Frwd brook, one mile and a half.

Brynllys (The brow near the court), a mile and a half, is a small village upon the turnpike road, about half way from Brecon to Hay. The church is a very indifferent, edifice. The steeple, containing five bells, is detached from the church, and placed at the east end. The Castle of Brynllys, according to Mr. King, in his third volume of “Observations on Ancient Castles," is of Syrian architecture, and asserts that Breconshire was part of the country of the Silures. At, Brunless has been found again, as at Launceston, the remains of a keep or tower, of a singular construction, unlike anything Roman or Norman. Its situation seems to correspond with Charden's account of the subordinate kind of Median or Mingrelian ancient eastern castles. In latter ages it has been surrounded with magnificent edifices, all of which have perished, while this tower has defied the power of time, and remained, as at first, insulated and permanent It is built, in part, of small hewn stone. This tower, though it does not stand upon a high conical hill, yet seems to have been placed upon a small artificial mount, formed of stone, upon a little rise of ground beneath. At the bottom of this mount appears a modern forced entrance, made with great. difficulty, by way of breach. The original door of entrance is much higher, composed of two pieces of stone bending so as to meet at the top in a kind of arch The LJyfni river flows by this fortress. Mr. T. Jones thinks this castle was built, by William the Conqueror, in his expedition into Wales in 1079 and 1080, and afterwards repaired and garrisoned by William Rufus. In 1608 it appears that the castle of Brynllys was the property of Sir Robert Knollys, in right ot his wife, who was of the Porthamal family. He conveyed it early in the reign of Charles I to a Cecil of Allt yr ynis. About the middle of the seventeenth century, Thomas Cecil sold the castle and lands to William Morgan, of Llangasty tal y llyn, M.D., one of the Morgans of Wenallt, in Llan- ddetty, who by his will (1737) devised them to Edward Williams, Esq, of Llangattock Court, whose son, Edward Williams of Llangeny, in 1752 again sold the castle and lands to Francis Lewis, of Llanelly, by whom it has been transferred to Mr. William Davies, the present tenant of the demesne.

Talgarth lies about one mile to the right of Broynllis, and nine miles from Brecon. This town or village is a borough by prescription, without privilege, jurisdiction, or municipal officers. The church is superior to most of the churches in the county; it consists of two aisles, which are ceiled and flagged it is rather low; the tower consists of six bells; solidity rather than elegance predominates in the construction. The building upon the north side was intended for a school or vestry-room; it is now used for a lumber room. The inscriptions to the memory of the dead are numerous; among which are, upon the north wall of the chancel a monument, with a long inscription, to Howel Harris, who, in the affected language of Methodism, "fell asleep in Jesus at Trevecca, July 23, 1773." Not far from this is another to the memory of his two elder brothers, Joseph and Thomas. Joseph died in London, September 26, 1764, aged 62; Thomas, or Tregunter, died September 23, 1782, aged 77. There are eight fairs held at Talgarth in the year, i e., Feb. 2, March 12, April 18, May 31, July 10, September 23, November 2, and December 3.

Cross the Llyfni river, and two miles beyond Broynllis Castle pass The Lodge on the right. (On the left to Builth, upon the banks of the Wye.) One mile further Pipton Chapel, on the right. A little further on the right is Glasbury, pronounced Glazebury, situate in the counties of Brecon and Radnor; in British Y Clas, the green or verdant enclosure. The site of the late parish church may still be seen near the fall of the Llyfni into the Wye, where a few yew trees remain. The modern church, was finished about the year 1665, in a close, which is in the county of Radnor, given by Sir Henry Williams, of Gwernyver, called Close dan Coed y Bolin (the close under the pole wood). It stands upon shelving ground upon the south side of the road, consisting of a nave and chancel only, with a heavy tower, in which are six bells, and below a school-room, where children are taught reading, writing, and arithmetic. The inscriptions are to the memory of the Sollers, Guuters, Williamses, Watkinses, &c. Upon an eminence south-west of the church are intrenchments, formerly surrounding a British camp, called Gaer, but not a vestige remains of any mansion which belonged to the Norman conquerors who settled in this neighbourhood. The Solers, or de Solariis, had great property here until the middle of the 17th century. A farm

house and some cottages are still called Pentre Solers, or Solerville. The Powels and Williamses were ancient families resident in this parish.

Tre'r coed (pronounced Tregoid) a mile south- west of Glasbury, in English Woodtown, or Wotton, is the residence of the Dowager Viscountess Hereford. It is supposed to have been built during the reign of Elizabeth by a family of the name of Watkins, and descended to Pryce Devereux, Esq., of Montgomery, grandfather to the present possessor. To Hay, four miles. Cross, by the way, the brooks Nantyscallen and Digedi.

(Concluded.)