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MAINTENANCE GUIDELINES

INTRODUCTION

1. A Home Inspection is not a Maintenance Inspection. 2. Home Inspectors are not Specialists. 3. Home Inspectors have limitations.

“…to detect observable conditions…” 4. They can not predict the future.

Example: The State of WI Standards of Practice for Home Inspectors Chapter RL 134.03 (7) (a) f), A home inspector shall observe and describe the condition of all of the following: The operation of a representative number of installed lighting fixtures, switches and receptacles located inside the house, garage and any exterior walls. A representative number is: one per room. Therefore, if your Home Inspector checks one electrical outlet in a given room and you move in a month later you may discover that a different outlet in the same room is not functioning. It is possible. The same is true for windows. There is also a possibility that some light bulbs may be missing or burned out at the time of inspection. Sometimes the occupant’s furniture and belongings may block access to check outlets, heat registers and windows. If the Standard of Practice dictated that inspectors check every outlet, every switch and every window, in every room, the inspection would take longer and cost more money. Therefore, to help minimize your risk of an unwelcome surprise when you move in, take some time right now to read the State of WI’s Standards of Practice. It is included with this report (pages 29 & 30). It will help you better understand what we inspect and what we do not. The contract contains other limitations of a Home Inspection. For example; well and septic system inspections are usually the responsibility of the seller. Prior to closing, consider this checklist:

1) Check all windows and doors for operability 2) Check all electrical outlets, switches and light fixtures. 3) Check all appliances that may have been included.

If you think your inspector missed something:

1. Ask yourself: Is this a “Major Defect”? 2. Check the Standards of Practice (pg 29) 3. Call US RIGHT AWAY - 262.534.5075

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Helpful Resources 2

The Perfect House 3

Maintenance Checklist 4

The Roof 6

The Exterior 8

Air Conditioning 10

Basements/ Crawl Spaces 12

Plumbing 13

Electricity 15

Heating 18

Venting & Insulation 24

Diagrams 27

Standards of Practice 29

Ref 1.1.1 – 1.1.8 31

Ref 1.2.1 – 1.2.8 32

Ref 2.1.1 – 2.1.8 33

Ref 2.2.1 – 2.2.8 34

Ref 3.1.1 – 3.1.6 35

Ref 3.2.1 – 3.2.6 36

Ref 4.1.1 – 4.1.6 37

Ref 4.2.1 – 4.2.6 38

Ref 5.1.1 – 5.1.8 39

Ref 5.2.1 – 5.2.6 40

Ref 6.1.1 – 6.1.6 41

Ref 6.2.1 – 6.2.7 42

Ref 7.1.1 – 7.1.8 43

Ref 7.2.1 – 7.2.6 44

Ref 8.1.1 – 8.1.7 45

Ref 8.2.1 – 8.2.7 46

Ref 9.1.1 – 9.1.6 47

Ref 9.2.1 – 9.2.6 48

Ref 10.1.1 – 10.1.7 49

Ref 10.2.1 – 10.2.6 50

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Helpful Resources

Asbestos www.asbestos.org www.lungusa.org 800/586-4872 www.mlaic.com

Cedar Shingles Lifetime Roof and Chimney (Sean Mangan) 262/224-5916 www.cedarbureau.org/

Chimneys Smoke Stacks (Kurt Soens) 262/797-8181 Royal Chimney Service (Howard) 414/771-2282

WI Building Codes www.commerce.state.wi.us/SB/SB-HomePage.html/ www.biasew.org

Contractors www.angieslist.com - 414/831-5478 Vic’s Home Repair - 414/321-4618

Holterman 414/425-3890 Wellenstein 262/695-3580

Drain Tile Testing Kevin Maynard 414-546-6560 Randy Burczyk 262.790.0539

Contractor Problems WI Consumer Protection 800/442-7128 - Roy Wagner 414-287-1354 rwagner@vonbriesen.com

EIFS Paul Dehler – 262.389.4877 www.eima.com 800/294-3462

Electrical KWK Electric Inc. (Ken Kmet) 414-374-2076 Spring City Electric (Mike Kelliher) 262/549-9474

Fencing Milwaukee Fence Inc 414-483-5522 www.milwaukeefence.com

Foundation Inspections Mike Shadid Consulting 414/379-1265 Charles Weber Consulting 414/536-1300

Foundation Repairs www.wafrp.com B&R 414.649.0777 Basement Specialists - 414/425-0600 Verette - 262/781-7101

Garage Doors Rinderle 262/662-5200

General www.buildingscience.com www.hometime.com www.jlconline.com www.hgtv.com www.diynet.com

Grading A Grade Above – Randy – 262.790.0539

Heating Donovan Jorgenson 262.784.6440 Gregg Heating & A/C 262/782-1200 Gross Heating 262/793-6000 Boilers –

Andy Busalacchi 414.276.9594 Joe Debelak 262.251.2630

Home Inspections www.anspect.com AIS – 262/534-5075 www.ashi.org http://drl.wi.gov/prof/homi/def.htm

Insulation & Ventilation Total Energy Savers 414/647-9601 www.owenscorning.com www.professionalroofing.net

Law – Intelectual Property David Stein www.boylefred.com 414/225-9755

Lead 800/532-3394 www.epa.gov/lead www.hud.gov.lead www.mlaic.com

Legal Advice Dan Stevens Attorney 262/251-5700 Roy Wagner 414-287-1354 rwagner@vonbriesen.com

Log Homes Kevin Maynard – 414.546.6560

Masonry Bayer & Bayer – Ralph Bayer 414/425-7488

Mold www.epa.gov/iaq/molds/index.html www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/moldresources.html htm www.ci.nyc.ny.us

www.cdc.gov/nceh/airpollution/mold/default. www.aiha.org/governmentaffairs-pr/html/mold-home.htm

www.cal-iaq.org/cal-iaq%20moldinformation.htm www.health.state.mn.us/divs/eh/indoorair/mold/index.html

Testing: www.michaelsengineering.com 414/257-9590 Remediation: A&J Services 800/727-8990

Cryo blasting: 414/476-5861 www.badgerremediation.com

Mudjacking Concrete Raising Corp. - 262/827-5000 The Mudjackers – 800/262-7584

Oil Tanks Gene Gotowitz 262/782-8895 A-1 262/252-4030

Paint Problems www.paint.org www.pdra.org

Pests www.pestworld.org www.batcon.org/ 512/327-9721

Plumbing Oak Creek Plumbing 414/762-4060 Gene Wagner 414/541-9217 Perez Plumbing 262.534.9740

Radon Affordable Radon Reduction 414/352-2862 www.epa.gov/radon/

Remodeling Design Build Associates, LLC Jim Jendusa PE 262.369.3800

Roofing J&B Roofing & Sheet Metal 414/265-2200 Residential Roofing 262.534.2042 www.roofhelp.com

Sewer/ Drain Problems Pipes Inspector - 262.789.8003 Expediters, Inc – 800/657-0879

American Leak Detection 262/538-5000 www.americanleakdetection.com

Siding Custom Trim Inc (Siding, Trim Windows & Gutters) 262/782-0252 www.vinylsiding.org

Structural Inspections Jim Jendusa PE 262/369-0700 Don Cohen PE 262/242-9791

Martin Aquino P.E. 414/332-5824 414/708-2547

US Consumer Product Safety Commission www.cpsc.gov/

Well Drilling & Pump Installation/ Inspection Fred Richert Co (Malcolm Richert) 262/797-8209

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The Perfect House

(READ ME BEFORE CALLING FOR HELP) There will come a time that you discover that your house is not perfect. It might be the day you move in. The systems and components of a house have a “typical” life expectancy and will not last forever. (NAHB study on Home Component Life Expectancy - http://www.nahb.org/fileUpload_details.aspx?contentID=72475 ) Some problems can only be discovered by living in a house. They cannot be discovered during a few hours of a Home Inspection. A sink, faucet, trap or shower stall may leak during normal use but not leak when you simply turn on the faucet. A roof or basement may leak when specific conditions exist. Some problems will only be discovered when carpets are lifted, furniture moved or finishes are removed. These problems may have existed at the time of the inspection but there were no clues to their existence. If there are no clues, we probably won’t find the problem. Our inspections are based on the current visible condition of the house. You may feel we are inconsistent because we identify some minor problems but not others. The minor ones were discovered while looking for the major ones. We note them simply as a courtesy. The intent of the inspection is to identify the $2,000 not the $200 problems; things that affect your decision to buy. One source of dissatisfaction comes from comments made by contractors. Contractors’ opinions often differ from ours. Do not be surprised when three roofers all say the roof needs replacing when we said it would last a few more years with minor repairs. While our advice represents the most prudent thing to do, contractors may be reluctant to undertake these repairs. The fear is that the last person to work on the roof will get the blame if it leaks regardless of whose fault it is. A contractor may be reluctant to do a minor repair with high liability when re-roofing the entire house for more money will reduce the likelihood of a callback. The Last-One-In Syndrome suggests that it is human nature for homeowners to believe the last bit of “expert” advice they receive, even if it is contrary to previous advice. As home inspectors, we are the “first one in” and our advice often goes unheaded after consulting with the “expert”. Though a contractor may criticize an inspection, they do not know the circumstances at the time of inspection. Anyone can say the basement is wet when it is wet. Predicting is a different story, especially when there are personal belongings preventing full view of the basement walls. We are generalists, not specialists. If we spent ½ hour under a sink or 45 minutes disassembling a furnace, we would find more problems too, but the inspection would take several days and cost considerably more. A Home Inspection does not eliminate all risk. Do not consider it to be an insurance policy.

State of Wisconsin Offer to Purchase Inspection Contingency

(Excerpt) DEFECT DEFINED: For the purposes of this contingency, a defect is defined as a structural, mechanical or other condition that would have a significant adverse effect on the value of the Property; that would significantly impair the health or safety of future occupants of the Property; or that if not repaired, removed or replaced would significantly shorten or have a significant adverse effect on the expected normal life of the Property. Defects do not include structural, mechanical or other conditions the nature and extent of which Buyer had actual knowledge or written notice before signing this Offer.

IF YOU FEEL WE MISSED A DEFECT , PLEASE CALL US RIGHT AWAY. 262.534.5075

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HOME MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST Year/Date: __________

1 ROOFS: Water is the worst enemy of your home. a. Check all flashings, roof penetrations and transitions (chimneys , vents, etc.) for signs of leaks. b. Look for damaged, loose or missing shingles. Repair or replace as needed.

c. Check gutters and downspouts for blockage, holes, alignment, slope, etc; clean, repair and replace as needed. d. Be sure downspouts direct water away from foundation.

e. Cut back tree limbs at least 2 feet away from roof. Wind may cause branches to rub and wear a hole in the roof.

f. Check chimneys for nests and blockage. Blocked chimneys can cause Carbon Monoxide to back up into the house. Check for cracked and damaged chimney caps, loose and missing mortar and/ or caulk.

g. If ice dams are common in your area, consider heat tape in the gutters and at the gutter edge of your roof. 2 EXTERIOR: Improper grading aournd your foundation is the number one cause of foundation failure.

a. Maintain proper slope of earth, walks and drives away from foundation walls. ½” per foot for 10’ or to the lot line. (Or expect wet basements and costly foundation repairs.)

b. Check foundation walls, steps, retaining walls, walks, patios, driveways, etc., for cracks, missing mortar and damage. c. Check window wells and drains for blockage. Window wells are one of the most common sources for wet basements.

d. Check painted or stained surfaces (fascia, soffits, sideing, trim, etc.) for wear, rot, etc. Maintain as needed. e. Cut back and trim shrubbery against front, back and sidewalls. Keep vegitation 4’ – 5’ away from foundation walls. f. Check weather stripping and caulking around doors and windows to prevent air and weather penetration problems. g. Check for rot around doors, windows, corner boards, and joints. Repair or replace as needed. h. Check glazing compound around windows. Leave a little paint or sealant on the glass to retard moisture infiltration.

3. GARAGE

a. Duplicate the checklist for the house

b. Test the overhead door operator safety mechanism.

4. CENTRAL AIR CONDITIONING UNITS

a. Turn off the power to the compressor when you enter the heating season. Field mice tend to chew exposed wiring.

b. Turn the power back on 24 hours prior to operating the system to prevent damage to the compressor.

c. Do not cover the compressor with a tarp or plastic. Trapped condensation will accelerate rusting.

d. Use a cable tie on the exterior disconnect to prevent inquisitive children from gaining access to high voltage wiring.

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5. INTERIOR FOUNDATION WALLS

a. Check basement (crawlsapces too) walls and floor for dampness, seepage and leaking after wet weather. b. Check your palmer valve or sump pump. (If applicable) c. Check walls for cracks. If cracks exist, document crack size & location to determine future wall movement.

6. PLUMBING: For preventive maintenance.

a. Check main supply valves for leaks, corrosion and ease of operation.

b. Check isolation valves, faucets & hose bibbs for leaks and corrosion.

c. Shut off interior and open exterior hose bibb valves in the fall.

d. Check your toilet for movement. Lie on it while tightening. Fill your tub before caulking it.

e. Flush water heaters twice per year or per manufacturer's recommendation.

7. ELECTRICAL: For safety, always touch panels with the back of your right hand prior to opening. a. Know the location of the main power disconnect in the electrical panel box. Never over fuse.

b. Mark and label all circuits in the main and sub panels. c. Check appliance cords, extension cords and outlet plugs. Replace all worn cords and outlets immediately. d. If fuses blow or breakers trip frequently, have a licensed electrician determine cause.

e.If you feel a tingling or shock from any electrical tool or appliance, have it repaired immediatley. f. If lights flicker or dim unnecessarily, call a licensed electrician.

8. HEATING & COOLING: (The arrow on the filter points towards the furnace or A/C motor)

a. Change or clean furnace and air conditioning filters monthly or per manufacturers recommendation.

b. Schedule a clean/ service/ safety check up every fall. c. On steam systems, "blow off" or drain low water cut-off per manufacturer's recommendation. d. Check the electric shut off switch prior to requesting a service call if the furnace or A/C suddenly stop working.

9. INTERIOR:

a. Check grout and caulk at bathroom tiles. With tile surrounds, fill tub prior to caulking. b. Check all windows for ease of operation and signs of moisture damage due to high humidity or leaks from exterior.

10. ATTICS a. Check for leaks, water stains, rot and microbial growth around roof penetrations such as chimney & plumbing stack.

b. Repair or replace damaged vent screens to prevent entry of wasps, birds, squirrels, bats, racoons and mischevious rascals.

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ROOFS STANDARDS OF PRACTICE (SOP) Some states require Home Inspectors to be licensed the same as Real Estate Agents, Architects and Engineers. Along with licensing comes a Standard of Practice which will contain definitions of certain terms and conditions. In regards to Home Inspections, one of the most important definitions to consider is the word “DEFECT”. The definition of “defect” may be different under the SOP for Home Inspectors than it is under the SOP for Real Estate Agents. It is generally agreed that a “Defect” has a significant negative affect on the value of the house. If a roof is not leaking at the time of an inspection, does that mean it is not a defect? Since it usually is not raining at the time of an inspection, this would be poor criteria to determine if the roof is leaking or not. The more significant issue is whether or not the roof is showing signs of being past or near the end of its life expectancy. If you are looking at replacing the roof covering within the next 2 years at the cost of $4,000 - $15,000 or more, do you think that this cost has a negative affect on the value of the property? It is interesting how our view of the same roof might be different depending on whether we were buying it or selling it. REASONALBLE EXPECTATIONS The most important purpose of a roof is to keep rain and other elements from entering our home. If rain or melting snow enters our attic or the building envelope, it may cause rot and possibly a microbial growth if not addressed in a timely manner. When we purchase a home, we may feel that the roof should last 10 years or more. Is this reasonable? Consider that most home loans will not pass underwriting guidelines unless the roof appears to have at least 3 years anticipated future life with “normal maintenance”. So when you think about how long the roof will last, realize that unless you are buying a new house, “reasonable expectation” means 3 years of future life… with “Normal Maintenance”. NORMAL MAINTENANCE Normal roof maintenance deals with preventing water infiltration. It includes caulking around roof penetrations and transitions such as the chimney, plumbing and electrical flashings as well as dormer sidewall, front wall and valley flashings and exposed nail heads. If you are buying a 60 year old home, it is reasonable to expect that the chimney flashing may need to be replaced in the near future. Keep tree branches trimmed away from the roof by at least two feet to prevent wind from blowing branches across the roof creating a condition that may cause premature wearing and eventually a hole in your roof. Roof maintenance also includes tuck pointing the chimney if applicable and maintaining the chimney crown and flue in good condition. A rain cap is often installed on top of a chimney to prevent moisture from rusting out a flue damper.

Ice damming is often an issue in northern climates. Be sure to keep your gutters (eave troughs) clean in the winter. Leaves can block the normal water flow and if ice dams occur, melting snow can cause water to enter your home. The water can cause rot and even start a mold growth. Some people choose to use a gutter or leaf guard to help prevent blockage of the gutter system. Some people even use a heat tape along the eaves edge. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s installation recommendations. Be proactive. Check your roof for signs of leaks annually. Remember that a roof in normal condition will not be leaking through the shingles, but if there is worn flashing, you could be getting leaks around the chimney or other roof penetrations. A simple tube of caulk can go a long way in preventing a more serious water problem such as rot and mold. If you do climb on top of your roof, be sure to secure the ladder to the gutter system with a bungee cord or rope on top and anchoring it to a wood or metal stake at the bottom. Make sure you stay away from electric power lines. Do not climb on roofs when they are wet, snow covered or icy. MAJOR CONCERNS Because we want to protect our home and belongings from the elements, our primary roof concerns are: 1) is the roof leaking now or will it be in the near future. This may be a maintenance issue rather than a defect and 2) will it need replacement in the near future. What costs are involved? LIFE EXPECTANCY Depending on the roof design, geographic location, material, and other factors, roofs may last from 7 to 60 years or more. Factors affecting the life expectancy other than design life are naturally occurrences such as Wind, Rain, Snow, Ice, Hail, Sun/ Heat and Moss. Improper installation by a non professional may have a significant affect on longevity and would likely void the warranty.

Most shingles are not intended to be installed on a low slope roof. This type of installation may void the manufacturer’s warranty.

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MATERIALS Depending on the slope of a roof, (is it steep, flat or somewhere in between), the recommended roof covering will be different. On medium to high pitched roofs, you may have wood shingle or shake, asphalt or fiberglass mat (composition), rolled composition, clay tiles, cement tiles, metal, slate and transite (cement asbestos board).

Flat or low sloped roofs are often covered with rubber (sometimes with stone on top of the rubber), layers of tar & felt – often with a gravel top coating for protection (commonly called a built up roof), modified bitumen and TPO (Thermoplastic Polyolefin).

FLASHING Flashing is typically a metal fabrication between the roof and a penetrating component such as the chimney (1.2.1, 1.2.2), electrical mast head, plumbing stacks, transitions in valleys (1.1.2), at sidewalls (1.2.3), at dormers (1.1.3), etc., that prevents water from entering the home. Often a homeowner will try to save money when installing a new roof and they may hire an inexperienced contractor who happens to have the lowest price. Sometimes if a homeowner feels handy, they may try installing new roof shingles themselves. Typically a homeowner does not know enough about flashing to replace it when needed. You may be looking at a newer roof that will require flashing work in the near future if the last roofer decided it was not quite time to replace the flashing or did not have the skill or inclination to replace the flashing.

LEAKS Leaks happen due to inadequate, failed or non existing caulk or sealant at flashings and nail heads (Maintenance) or failure of the roof covering (Defect). Maintenance issues are often addressed with a tube of caulk and sometimes the replacement of flashing. A defective roof is much more expensive to address if you are looking at roof replacement; especially if you need to tear off the old roof covering prior to the new installation or if you have an older house that has skip sheathing (2” +/-) spaced roof boards. Often you are looking at the cost to install a new roof deck over skip sheathing to assure that the nails fastened into something solid.

THE CHIMNEY

Some houses have masonry chimneys. They may be built of brick, stone, concrete block, clay, etc. It can be quite expensive to line, reline or rebuild a chimney that has been neglected over the years. When it comes to chimneys, we recommend a separate inspection by a licensed chimney sweep. Some companies use a camera with a fiber optic lens to look for defects not readily visible with the naked eye.

VENTILATION Proper roof venting is important. A roof without vents or without enough vents will likely overheat and not last as long as the intended design life. Improper venting may also void the warranty of the roofing material. Most building codes require ventilation which is a 1 to 300 ratio of the footprint of the property. Vents are typically installed high near the top of the roof (ridge) and low in the soffits or the overhang of the roof. The lower vents allow fresh cooler air to enter as the higher vents allow rising heated air to escape. Your attic will stay cooler and your roof will last longer.

There are power vents, gable vents, pan vents, soffit vents and more. Make sure they are not blocked. Often the soffit vents are painted over and the air flow is reduced to an unacceptable condition. In the winter months, birds often feel heat rise from the high vents and pick at the protective screen until the have an access to build a nest. Look in the attic every so often to be sure you do not have a mound of nesting material below a roof vent. Nesting material would likely include droppings which could be a health concern, especially if you have a compromised respiratory system. If you find this condition and choose to clean it up yourself, be sure to use rubber gloves and a mask to prevent inhalation of dust contaminants.

COSTS If replacement will be needed in the near future, consider issues that affect the cost. Be sure to get at least 3 written estimates. You may need to make 4 times as many calls as you think you should to get 3 estimates. Do not be lazy about making the calls. If you do not compare pricing of reputable contractors, you will be at the mercy of whoever you think “seems” trustworthy. Trust but confirm!

When you compare contractor costs for a new roof, make sure you consider what is being included. Prices may differ considerably. One contractor may include all of the proper “appointments” such as an ice & water shield, drip edge flashing, new metal flashings around the chimney etc, while another contractor may just be charging for shingle installation. When it is time to hire a roofing contractor, be sure they are insured – ask for a copy of their certificate of insurance. Ask how long they have been in business. Ask for references; ask to see a copy of their guaranty or warranty, check with the Better Business Bureau for past problems.

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THE EXTERIOR GRADING/ PLANTS & WATER CONTROL When we think in terms of prioritizing our home maintenance, we should think in terms of what will cost us the most amount of money if not addressed in a timely manner. Unquestionably, repairing basements in northern climates is the number one concern. Neglecting the exterior grade around a structure can often result in foundation repair costs that can range from $2,000 - $30,000. Foundation wall reinforcement, which may include excavation, is not unusual when a home owner has neglected the exterior grading around the home. Water is the worst enemy of your home. Whether it is in the form of rain, melting snow or condensation the effects can be devastating. Water will cause wood to rot, water pressure against a foundation wall can cause it to collapse, and condensation can help promote a microbial or mold growth that can turn into a significant health concern if not addressed in a timely manner. Melting snow turns to ice as temperatures drop overnight. When water freezes, it expands with a tremendous amount of force being exerted against the foundation walls.

If you have been through a property inspection, you may already have heard your inspector mention something about the grading around your home. Proper grading along with clean gutters and downspouts will have the most significant affect on the structural integrity of the foundation of your home. Building codes in Wisconsin for example, require a pitch of the soils around the foundation to be ½” lower for every foot away from the foundation to a distance of 10 feet away from the foundation wall or to the lot line, whichever is nearer. If your house is located in an area that is predominantly flat rather than on a hill, you may need to create swales, a French drain or consider directing the water to a “rain garden” that you can create. (www.raingardens.org)

Another code requirement that is often ignored is the height of the grade around the foundation. The IRC 404 & the Wisconsin UDC Comm 21.10(2) (d) & (e), requires that soil, concrete, asphalt, etc. adjacent to the foundation shall be 8" below sills and rim joists and a minimum of 6" lower than the siding material (2.2.6, 2.2.7) at all elevations to help prevent wall rot and subsequent damage. When snow melts, some of the water is pulled into the soil by gravity, but there is a capillary or wicking action that occurs. Some of the water is actually pulled up behind the siding. This water can rot out the rim joist of a house. Subsequently, the weight of the house, especially with snow loads on the roof in the winter, can crush the rotted rim joist and in turn cause cracking of the interior walls and windows. If you have a brick or masonry exterior wall covering, you should check to see if you have weep holes at the base of the walls. Without them, water may end up trapped behind the masonry and be subject to expansion which can damage building materials and initiate microbial growth if the water seeps to the interior of the structure. Weep holes are required to allow a path for the water to escape.

Though your landscaper may disagree, vegetation, shrubs, plants, flower beds and especially trees near the foundation can have a significant negative affect on the foundation

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walls. When you water your plants, you are also watering your foundation walls. If the soils around the foundation include plantings, the soil is porous enough to allow water from melting snow to create hydrostatic pressure against the foundation. Recently, builders have been placing stone or lava rock over polyurethane sheets to a distance of 5’ or more away from the foundation walls. This helps direct water away from the foundation. Remember to properly pitch the soil before placing the polyurethane; otherwise the water will follow the path of least resistance into the basement. Planting shrubs etc. beyond this 5’ barrier will help to minimize your risk of moisture related problems. In the case of trees being planted too close to the foundation walls, the root system of the tree may put pressure against the foundation wall as the tree grows. The roots can also enter and damage the drain tile system and worsen foundation moisture problems.

EXTERIOR WALLS As with the roof, the exterior walls will help shed water and protect other building material and the interior from the effects of nature. Each type of wall material will have its particular set of advantages and disadvantages. Wall surfaces can be Aluminum, Vinyl, Fiberglass, Wood (boards, panels or shingles), Brick, Stucco, EIFS (synthetic stucco), Steel, Permastone (synthetic stone), Natural Stone, Transite (cement asbestos board), fiberboard (wood or cement fibers) and Asphalt. Depending on the material, your maintenance could entail dealing with dents, cracks, rot & rust. Similar to a roof, the wall cladding will often shed water rather than be water proof. For example, if you have vinyl siding, take a look at the bottom of any piece of siding and you will see drainage holes. When it rains, there may be a wind forcing the rain up against the wall of the house. Water may be blown behind the siding. These drainage holes allow a path for the water to escape.

If you have wood siding, the surface, whether it is painted or stained, is subject to wear. The longer you let the surface wear without a proper protective coating, the more likely you will be dealing with replacing sections rather than just repainting or staining. Whether it is siding or the trim on your house, you need to maintain the surfaces to eliminate the higher costs of replacing them. The most likely places for water infiltration are the transitions around your windows, doors and utility penetrations such as Air Conditioning lines, sump pump piping and gas lines. Pay special attention to these areas during your annual maintenance inspection of the exterior walls especially if J moldings or drip edge trim was not originally installed around doors and windows. (2.1.1, 2.1.2) As with the roof, pay special attention to the South and Southwestern sides of the house. They are more prone to the negative affects of the sun and temperature differences. The north side may be more subject to mildew or algae growth. SPRING/ FALL CHECK LIST Check for worn finishes on siding and trim. Check masonry for cracks and tuck point as needed. Check and adjust the height of the grading. Check and adjust the slope of the grade at all sides. Check gutters and downspouts for rust, holes and debris. Check to be sure no shrubs or trees rub against the house. Check caulking around windows, doors and utility openings. Pay special attention in looking for anywhere water may find its way to the interior. Paint or stain exterior wood or hardboard walls & trim on the average of every 3 to 5 years to prevent rot. Follow manufacturer’s recommendation carefully for surface preparation. The motivated homeowner can do many repair and maintenance tasks. The motivated homeowner that lacks time, desire or skill should contact a qualified specialist. Always check references. We all like to save money, but hiring an under qualified handyman, may cost you more in the long run if the work will need to be redone properly.

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CENTRAL AIR CONDITIONING systems normally have four basic components: the blower, or fan; the evaporator coil; the condenser unit, consisting of a compressor pump and a condensing coil and fan; and the ductwork and vents. The blower, not visible unless you remove the cover, looks like a squirrel cage. Its function is to push air through the system. In most centrally air-conditioned homes the cooling and heating systems are combined, so that air from the blower passes through the furnace unit. When the furnace is off during the summer, the heating system does not interfere with the cooling system. However, if your house has hot-water or steam heating, the blower and evaporator coil will be separated from the boiler. The important thing to remember about the blower is that this is where the filter is usually located. Your system may have filters behind the return-air vents in the rooms of the house, or inside the return-air plenum, but a filter at the blower is the most common arrangement. You may have to unscrew and remove a cover to get at the filter. Its purpose is to clean the air before it passes through the blower, and it is probably the single most important maintenance item in the entire system. Check your filter every month, and clean or replace it as often as suggested by the manufacturer.

FUNCTION The operation of air conditioners is based on the behavior of refrigerant and its ability to absorb and give off heat. The evaporator coil and the condenser unit of an air-conditioning system are designed to remove heat from your house and carry it outside. A refrigerant circulates in a closed system from the compressor to the condenser coil to the evaporator coil and back to the compressor. The compressor, condenser coil, and a fan are located outside the house. The condenser coil may resemble a car radiator, or the design may be a coiled tube with fins on it. The evaporator coil is located inside the house, within the flow of circulating air, downwind of the blower. When one coil (the evaporator) removes heat from room air and the other coil (the condenser) transfers the heat to the outside of the house, cooling takes place.

When the air-conditioning unit is running during the summer months, the evaporator coil should get very cold, so cold that it "sweats," that is, it collects condensing moisture from the circulating air. Water dripping off an evaporator coil is collected in a pan and piped to a drain. However, if you have a horizontal flow unit in your attic, it should be equipped with a secondary condensation

drain. Sooner or later the primary drain will clog up with airborne dust or algae growth, and the secondary drain will prevent an overflow of water into the ceiling below. The pipe from the secondary drain pan should run through the eaves to the outside of the house somewhere near a front or rear door. This way you are more likely to notice water flowing from the secondary drain, a clear warning that the primary drain is clogged. Your air-conditioning system should not be operated when the outside air temperature is below about 65 degrees F. At colder temperatures the refrigerant gas, under high pressure, will condense to a liquid inside the compressor, and this may damage the pump.

MAINTENANCE It is advisable to inspect your central air-conditioning system at least once a year. You will need a flashlight, a thermometer, a screwdriver, a 1-foot-long piece of yarn, tissue paper, and a pen and paper. Make written notes of any problems you find to help you organize your main-tenance tasks later. Always shut off electricity to the system before poking around near motors, blowers, fans, drive belts, or other moving parts.

On a day when the outside temperature is above 65 degrees F, start inside the house at the thermostat; turn the thermostat to "automatic" and "cool." Set the thermostat at 65 degrees F. To see if there is a good airflow coming from the room registers take a 1-foot-long piece of yarn and hold it in front of each one. The breeze should be strong enough to make the yarn flutter. The registers should be adjusted for proper airflow as needed for comfort and energy saving. In a two-story house with one central system, most of the cold air should be directed to the second floor supply registers (outlets). Since heat rises and most of the heat energy strikes the roof, sending more cool air to the upstairs rooms will compensate for those effects. Because cool air falls, gravity will bring some of the air to cool the downstairs rooms, thus compensating for the lower flow to them. Check the return-air vents by placing a tissue over the return registers. If the draw is good, the tissue will adhere to the grilles. Go to the furnace and check the cover to the blower compartment; it should be secure so that air cannot be sucked in from the furnace area. Listen for a hissing or whistling noise that would indicate the blower cover is not fitted properly. The blower cover should never be off when the system is operating; call for service if it is.

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Shut off the electrical power to the system and remove the cover. Check the blower compartment to locate the filter. If you don't find it there, it will probably be behind a louvered grille nearby. Using a flashlight, check to see if the filter is clean. If not, wash it, or replace it if it's a replaceable filter. Washable filters are usually made of a synthetic or metal fiber. They should be washed in de-tergent water, then dried and sprayed with a dust collector of the type used on a dust mop. Replaceable filters are made of thin fiberglass in a cardboard frame. When inserting such filters, be sure the air-flow arrow printed on the edge of the cardboard frame is pointing toward the blower area. While you have the blower compartment open, look at the blades on the blower with a flashlight. They should be fairly clean. A thin layer of dust is acceptable, but not a thick coating. If the blades need cleaning, call a service company; cleaning a blower is a surprisingly dirty job. While you're in the furnace area, look for the air-conditioning condensation drain. It's usually a 3/4-inch plastic or copper pipe coming out of the bottom of the evaporator coil, and it leads to a drain. The condensation drain should not be overflowing into the furnace or on the floor. If it is overflowing, call an air-conditioning specialist. Replace the cover, turn the air conditioner on, and let it run about 5 minutes. A properly functioning system reduces the temperature of the incoming air 15 to 20 degrees F as it passes through the evaporator coil. Place a thermometer in the blower compartment or tape it to the return-air grille for about 5 minutes and take a reading. Now place the thermometer in the supply register nearest to the cooling unit for 5 minutes and take another reading. You should note a 15 to 20-degree difference. Expect smaller temperature drops in humid weather or if the system has long duct runs. Keep the outside condenser coil clean. Check to see that no vines, plastic covers, or anything else such as tall grass or shrubbery obstructs the airflow. If you find any obstructions, clear them away. Two refrigerant lines usually come out of the condenser unit in the same location, near the ground. The pencil-sized copper pipe should never be hot to the touch, but just about 20 degrees above the outside temperature. If the line is hot to the touch, the condenser coil may be dirty. You can look at the coil with a flashlight. It should be visible behind the louvers on the exterior of the case. If the fins on the coil appear to be dirty, shut off the electricity to the condenser unit and wash the coil with high-pressure water from a garden hose. Be sure to spray the water through the coil from the side opposite the dirty side so that the dirt will be washed out of the coil and not forced deeper into it.

With the system on, check the suction line. The suction line is the tube that carries refrigerant gas to the condenser unit. It is about the diameter of a hotdog and should be insulated with foam rubber. The suction line should be cold, like a glass of ice water, never warm and never frozen. If the line insulation is badly deteriorated or missing, you can buy replacement insulation at most hardware stores. The condenser unit should be sitting on a level platform, usually a concrete slab. It doesn't have to be perfectly level, but if the unit is obviously tilted, it should be adjusted or else the compressor can be damaged. It's best to have a professional make this adjustment. You could bend the refrigerant lines while moving the unit; the bent pipes could restrict the refrigerant flow and damage the compressor.

Some Common Problems If there's hardly any air coming out of the air-conditioning vents, the problem might be a dirty filter. Simply clean or replace it. The blower belt might be loose or broken. In that case change the belt or adjust the tension. The fins on the blower might be dirty. Dirty fins can't blow as much air as clean ones. If the blower is dirty, the evaporator coil is probably dirty too. Have them cleaned. The evaporator coil might be frozen so that no air can pass through it. If the suction line at the condenser unit is frozen, the evaporator coil is frozen too. Shut off the air conditioning for a few hours until the coil defrosts. Check and clean the filter, blower, and evaporator coil. If everything's clean and the unit still freezes, you may be low on refrigerant. Call for service. If cooling is a problem in only one room, you may have a disconnected, damaged, or undersized duct. For a start, however, make certain that the room's register is open. If you can hear the condenser unit operating outside and the blower is pushing air into the rooms but the air is not cool, your compressor may have developed a leak and become low on gas refrigerant. Shut the unit off, and call for service If water is dripping out of your air conditioner's evaporator coil box onto the floor, the drainpipe is clogged. Remove the evaporator coil cover, clean out the drain pan, and unclog the drainpipe. If the condenser unit outside keeps cycling on and off usually indicate a dirty condenser coil, which is causing the unit to run hot with unusually high pressures. The compressor may also be low on refrigerant. Call for service.

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BASEMENTS, CRAWL SPACES & THE COSTLY CONSEQUENCES OF COMPLACENCY.

Most houses with basements and crawl spaces experience some dampness or moisture. Block foundations are more susceptible than poured. Postponing required maintenance can lead to costly foundation or structural repairs. Wetness develops by Leaking, Seeping and Condensation. Poor drainage around the house is the most common source of water problems. It is rare though possible that a broken water line, drainpipe or a high water table may be the source. The water table may be higher at certain times of unusually heavy rainfall. A waterproof basement is practically impossible. Water management is the key. Damp proofing, different from waterproofing, is typically applied to exterior foundation walls with either a tar layer or moisture resistant paint or coating. Though water infiltration can lead to costly repairs, water control systems can be relatively simple to achieve. Control measures start with grading. First, a minimum distance of 6" - 8" should be created and maintained between the top of the soil and the top of the foundation wall to minimize effects of moisture wicking into exterior walls. (Ref 2.2.7) Next, starting right at the house, slope the earth away from the house approximately ½” per foot to 10’ away from the house or the lot line, whichever is closer (WI UDC Comm 21.12). Start at the wall. Do not create a flat surface for plantings. Install curtain drains (Ref 2.1.3), or create swales (Ref. 2.2.3), if the lot line is less than 5’ from the house. Compact the soil, cover with a moisture barrier such as polyethylene sheet plastic or even rubber roofing material and finally a covering of rock or stone to keep the moisture barrier in place. Avoid organic material such as mulch or bark chips which tend to attract earwigs and wood destroying insects. Check out www.raingardens.org to learn more about water control. Another method of grade adjustment is by replacing topsoil with a clay soil. Remember to compact the clay and provide the proper pitch away from the house at 1/2" per foot. Cover with topsoil and grass seed or sod. Gutters and downspouts should remain clean and extend about 5’ away from the house. (Ref 2.2.4) The larger size gutters (4-5") work better to minimize clogs and handle water capacities during times of heavy rain. If the

downspouts lead into a storm sewer system, check for blockage with a garden hose. Investigate gutter covers. Some work very well, others require more maintenance than they are worth. Clear blocked drain tiles and repair broken tiles or redirect downspouts to grade if allowed by your municipality. Basement windows are well-known for water entry. As needed, install window wells to a level 4" above the finished grade. (Ref 2.2.5) Fill the wells with a minimum of 16" of a washed stone or gravel (no fines) to a point 4" below the window to minimize rotting of the wood window frame. Using plastic window well covers helps minimize water entry into the basement. Consider installing glass block windows. They do not rot and they provide more security as well as better thermal qualities. Be sure concrete walks and patios are sloped away from the house at about 1/4" per foot. Seal concrete and masonry joints adjacent to the house with a flexible sealant such as urethane caulk. Do not buy the cheapest caulk. It will not last. Keep all vegetation at least 4' from the foundation wall in order to minimize water infiltration. Be sure clothes dryers vent to the outside and use a dehumidifier in the warmer seasons to minimize effects of condensation on basement walls. When these measures are not enough, you made need more costly repairs. Some contractors will suggest installing new interior drain tiles or interior drainage systems at a lesser cost than excavation of the exterior but remember these systems encourage water infiltration. Read warranties carefully. Some states have codes regarding foundation repairs and define contractor’s responsibilities and liabilities. Call your municipality to find out. Always get three or more estimates and check references of contractors. The Better Business Bureau is a good starting point. Please call us prior to making an expensive financial commitment. Unlike a contractor, we have no vested interest in selling you expensive repairs. There are no miracle cures for a wet basement. It is an issue of moisture control vs. moisture elimination. KEEP THE GRADE PITCHED AWAY FROM YOUR HOME OR EXPECT A WET BASEMENT AND CRACKED WALLS.

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PLUMBING A municipality, utility company, or a well supplies your drinking water. If you have a well, water is pumped into a pressure tank, and then into the supply system. When demand in the house causes pressure in the tank to drop, the pump turns on and water is drawn out of the well to refill the tank. The pump shuts off automatically when the pressure is reestablished. Water flows into most homes through a water service line at a pressure of 20 to 80 pounds per square inch (psi). Typical psi is between 25 and 50. A main shut-off valve is usually installed on the line close to where it enters the building. You should know where the valve is located because you may need to shut off your water supply if you have a leak or are having plumbing work done. Once inside the house, the pipe may connect to the water softener (if you have one) and then to the water heater. From the water heater, the piping branches out horizontally and vertically to fixtures such as tubs, toilets, showers and sinks. Horizontal pipes may be installed on a slight decline so that, in case of power failures or major repairs, the entire system can be drained through a valve at its lowest point. Supply pipes are sometimes designed with air chambers which act as "shock absorbers" when faucets are rapidly turned off. Without these, the system could develop ruptures from the pressure created by water flow being abruptly stopped. Sometimes these chambers become filled with water and you will hear banging in the pipes, known as "water hammer." If the banging persists, the air chambers can be re-established by a plumber or a handy homeowner with the aid of a repair manual. If your plumbing system is operating properly, water pressure should be consistent. For example, water coming out of an upstairs sink should not be significantly reduced when the bathtub is running simultaneously. Sometimes, even if water pressure is in the normal range, water flow can be diminished if mineral deposits have built up on the inside surface of pipes or in faucet nozzle screens. These screens should be periodically cleaned. Most interior residential water supply systems use one or more of the following materials for piping: galvanized iron, copper, brass, lead or plastic. If your piping is lead, you may want to have your water laboratory tested to determine if the lead is contaminating your water supply. Regardless of the material used, all piping systems must be adequately supported by or attached to the studs or joists with compatible hangers, clamps or other approved devices.

WATER HEATERS

Most homes have their water heated by electric, gas or oil-fired heaters. Tanks normally range in size from 30 to 82 gallons. Modern tanks are covered with a thin layer of enamel to prevent corrosion. Insulation is placed between the tank and the outer metal jacket to minimize heat loss and condensation. To guard against excessive temperature or pressure, every water heater must have a temperature/pressure relief valve that automatically releases water when the temperature or pressure in the tank reaches its limit. There should be an extension to this valve that ends 1-1/2” to 6” above the floor. (Ref. 6.1.4) The temperature setting should be kept as low as is safe to conserve energy and prolong tank life. Water should be at least 110 degrees Fahrenheit to kill microbes and no more than 130 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit, to prevent scalding. Inside some tanks, replaceable magnesium rods are suspended in the water to attract corrosive electrolytes that would otherwise consume the tank walls. These rods can be checked and replaced periodically; however, as a practical matter, this is rarely done.

WATER SOFTENERS In some geographic areas, water contains excessive amounts of calcium and magnesium, and is known as "hard" water. Hard water leaves rings around bathroom fixtures and can build up mineral deposits in water heaters and pipes. Water softeners remove these minerals and replace them with sodium. The sodium in a properly operating system is minimal. However, if you are concerned with excess sodium in your diet, the softener can be connected to the water heater only, so the drinking water is not treated. Consider having the water analyzed to determine if there is reason for concern.

TOILETS To most people, the workings of the toilet seem quite complicated - but they're really quite simple. When the tank handle is pushed or lifted, a connecting rod raises a rubber stopper from a valve at the bottom of the tank. Water from the tank rushes into the bowl and the tank's float ball drops with the water level. As water fills the bowl, gravity and a siphoning action draw the contents of the bowl through the trap and into the drainage system. After the tank water is released, the rubber stopper drops down to seal the valve at the bottom of the tank. Water from the supply line flows through a ballcock valve to refill the bowl and then the tank. The float ball rises with the water on an arm that shuts off the ballcock valve when the water in the tank reaches the proper level.

THE DRAIN-WASTE-VENT SYSTEM

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Used water and wastes are carried through drain waste pipes to public sewage lines or to on site sewage systems, the most common being septic systems. These pipes are sloped one quarter of an inch per foot, since waste flows by gravity only. Overflowing fixtures and slow-draining wastes are signs that your fixtures or drainage system should be checked. Decomposing waste material in the sewage system emits malodorous and unhealthy fumes. To prevent sewer gases from flowing back into the house, each fixture's drain has a U-shaped pipe called a trap. A trap should always be filled with water to create a seal against sewer gases.

Usually, water draining out of the fixture will automatically seal the trap. However, improper venting can create a siphoning action that draws the water seal out of the trap, allowing sewer gases to enter the house. Venting is necessary to maintain equal atmospheric pressure within the drain waste pipe system and to safely dispose of sewer gases outside the house. Vent pipes are connected to the drain-waste system at each fixture's drain line downstream from the trap and extend outside of the house, usually from the roof. There shouldn't be any cross connections in your plumbing system. A cross connection is any point where contaminated water or wastes might mix with potable water, such as the point where a sink or bathtub spout is below the flood rim of the fixture or a toilet ballcock valve is under water. This could present a serious health hazard, for example, if there was ever a sudden drop in water pressure resulting from a water main break. Contaminated water or wastes would be drawn into the fresh water supply system through these cross connections.

GENERAL TIPS • Clean pop-up sink drains and strainers, and pour a pot of

boiling water down drains every month to prevent clogging.

• Try to keep fat, greases and coffee grounds out of drains and dishwashers.

• Never pour paint or chemicals down drains. They may damage pipes or interfere with the proper functioning of septic systems.

• Flush the garbage disposal with one pot of hot water and a half-cup of baking soda each month.

• Take note of any pipes that have been patched. These should be replaced, since patches are only meant to be temporary.

• Periodically check all fixtures - tubs, shower stalls, sinks, basins and toilets - making sure they're free of cracks, rust or other forms of surface damage.

• Make sure caulk and putty seals are in good condition. Fixtures should be firmly attached to the wall or floor, especially hung sinks and toilets.

• Periodically inspect your water heater for signs of rust or leakage. Don't mistake condensation for leaks. If your heater is leaking, it must be replaced. Also, check for discharged water from the relief drain valve - if water is present, have a plumber check it immediately.

• Minimize sediment build-up in water heaters by draining a few gallons of water every six months. (See your owner's manual). Gas-fired heaters should be professionally serviced every other year; oil-fired, annually.

• Make sure your sump pump (if you have one) is connected to surface grade or to a storm drain and not a septic tank or sewage system. Those systems are not capable of handling large amounts or water at one time. The pump should also have its own (dedicated) electrical outlet. Check your sump crock at least once a year. If the normal condition is dry, be sure to add about 5 gallons of water to the crock every 12 months to keep the pump from seizing.

• If your house has a palmer valve in the drain system instead of a sump pump, be sure the valve opperates freely. Check it once a year and use a liquid penatrant to free it if needed. PB Blaster works wonders.

• Water heaters usually last 8 – 12 years. They generally do not need to be replaced unless they leak.

• If you are courageous enough to replace piping; galvanized pipes usually last 20 – 30 years, copper as long as 60 years and PEX is expected to last 100 years or more.

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ELECTRICITY has become an indispensable fact of life in today's world. With it we control our comfort and many of the functions of daily life in our homes. Yet electricity also brings with it the potential for great danger. Inadequate wiring and improper installations can create serious, even lethal conditions. It is critically important for you, as a homeowner, to know enough about your electrical system to operate it safely

UNDERSTANDING ELECTRICITY Electricity results from the flow of electrons. The force, or pressure, that is needed to push electricity through wires is called voltage. The volume of electricity, or current, is called amperage. Just as the volume of water flowing through a pipe depends on its pressure and pipe's diameter, so the amount of electricity flowing through a wire depends on both the number of volts (pressure) and the number of amperes (volume) that can pass through it. A home's electrical system most often originates at the main service panel. It is then divided into branches, called circuits, and connected by wires to wall outlets, appliances, and switches throughout the house. The metals copper and aluminum carry electricity efficiently are called conductors. Materials that are not good conductors such as glass, rubber, plastic, ceramic, wood, and paper, are called insulators.

ELECTRICAL SERVICE In order for an electrical system to be safe, it must be properly installed according to the requirements of the National Electrical Code (" and any local regulations. Licensed electricians follow the Code when they install, repair, or improve electrical circuits inside a house. As new materials and devices appear, however, the Code is periodically revised. Wiring which was in compliance with the Code when a home was built may no longer be up to modern standards. Your licensed electrician can tell you if upgrading your electrical system would be beneficial. In older neighborhoods or rural areas, the utility company provides power to homes through overhead conductors called the service drop. In urban areas and newer neighborhoods the power comes to the house underground, and is called a service lateral. In almost all areas the homeowner is responsible, through his or her electrical contractor, to maintain the wiring throughout the house up to the connections at the end of the service drop or service lateral.

Size of the Service:

The service voltage can usually be determined by counting the number of wires connected to the service entrance, the cable that carries the current from the service drop to the electrical equipment. Two wires mean 120 volt service, while three wires indicate the availability of both 120 volt and 240 volt service. Voltage on a service lateral usually can be assumed to be 240 volts. While lights and most small appliances operate on 120 volts, heavy-duty electrical appliances such as ranges, heat pumps, and clothes dryers require 240 volts. The available amperage is determined by the size and the type of service entrance cable, and is something your electrician or ASHI inspector can identify for you. By today’s standards, any service that provides less than 100 amps at 120/240 volts may be considered inadequate for the average family. A home equipped with an electric water heater, range, clothes dryer, and central air conditioning may require 150 amps. If, in addition, the house is heated by electricity, it should typically have a 200-amp service. If an electrical service has not been upgraded within the last 20-30 years, the chances are that the amount of power being supplied is inadequate. An inadequate service may have:

• Fuses that blow or circuit breakers that trip often • Lights that flicker/ dim when appliances are turned on • A TV image that shrinks • Too many extension cords in use • Smoke from receptacles, switches, or devices.

The Electric Meter: Electrical usage is measured in units call watts, which are equivalent to the number of volts times the number of amps. The utility company charges you according to the number of watts that are registered your electric meter. The meter itself, which belongs to the utility, may be located inside or outside the house.

Main Service Panel: The main service panel, which is usually located on a wall close to the incoming cables, is the central command post of your electrical system. From here power is fed to the outlets and appliances throughout the house. Some electrical systems have a single switch, lever or handle called the main disconnect which can shut off all the power to the house in case of emergency, but the National Electrical Code"® allows up to six disconnects to shut off all the power in a residence. It is essential that you know the type, number, location, and operation of the main disconnects in the event of an emergency. A single disconnect will usually be located close to the meter; multiple disconnects will nearly always be on the panel.

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Overload Protection: When too much current flows through a wire, the wire gets hot, sometimes hot enough to destroy the insulation and cause a fire. This situation, called an overload, may develop from a short circuit, where two bare wires are touching each other, or, more frequently, when too many appliances are being used on the same circuit at one time. To prevent this from happening, the wires in a circuit are protected with safety devices which are designed to open, or disconnect, the circuit from its source when too much current is passing through them. There are two kinds of over-current protective devices: fuses, which must be replaced it they blow, and circuit breakers, which can be simply reset. Once the overload situation is remedied (e.g. by unplugging some of the devices, or by replacing worn insulation or defective appliances), circuit breakers can be reset by moving the switch from the "trip" position to "off" and then back to 'on". Even if they are never tripped, all circuit breakers should be turned off and on at least once a year to prevent sticking due to corrosion buildup or mechanical failure of their moving parts. Since blown fuses must be replaced, it helps always to have a supply of the correct sizes on hand. Fuse and breaker sizes: The National Electrical Code® specifies the maximum current or amperage that can be carried safely by each size and type of wire used in a home. Therefore, fuses and breakers must be the correct amperage in order to properly protect each circuit. In other words, if you blow a 15-amp fuse, it should be replaced only with a 15-amp fuse or a Type S (tamper-proof) 15-amp fuse and adapter. Larger size fuses would allow too much current to flow in the circuit, making it unsafe.

Service Ground:

Every electrical system must be grounded so that, in case of a faulty appliance, worn insulation, or a voltage surge caused by a lightning strike, the electricity will be harmlessly discharged into the earth, rather than into the house system or a person. System grounding is achieved by connecting the neutral wires from all the electrical circuits to a metal strip in the main service panel called the neutral bus bar, which is in turn connected by a wire to a rod driven into the earth, or to the metal cold water supply pipe which goes into the earth.

ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS

If there are too few circuits, or their loads are not distributed properly throughout the house, there may be frequent overloads. This kind of service is unsatisfactory and can be a potential fire hazard. A good way to evaluate your power distribution is to test and label the individual circuits in your home. Simply turn off the fuses or circuit breakers one by one and notice which outlets and appliances are affected. Then mark the circuits accordingly, either on the main service panel box or on a master list kept nearby. After identifying the individual circuits, calculate the number of watts each one uses. Many electrical devices have the wattage stamped on their I.D. tag or nameplate. If only the amperage is identified, multiply this by the voltage of the circuit to arrive at the wattage. [Watts = Volts x Amps] Be sure to add up the wattage ratings of all the light bulbs and appliances on each circuit. No 15-amp circuit (at 120 volts) should carry more than 1,500 watts. For a 20-amp circuit, the maximum is 2,000 watts. Heavy-duty appliances are almost always wired for 240 volts and each must be on a separate circuit with its own fuse or breaker. If the wattage used on an individual circuit exceeds the maximum, you should consult a licensed electrician about having that circuit rewired. Outlets/ Receptacles: The modern, ideal arrangement of duplex receptacles, for safety and convenience, is one for every 12 feet of wall space, or one on each wall of the average 10' by 12' room. No point on any wall should be further than 6' from an outlet to avoid the use of extension cords, which can become worn, broken, or simply overheat and cause a fire. In the kitchen there should be 20-amp appliance outlets every two feet at the counters. Modern homes are equipped with grounded three-hole receptacles. Appliances with three-prong plugs are thus safely grounded in three-hole receptacles. A three-prong appliance plug can be connected to a two-hole outlet by means of a properly installed grounding adapter. Even if a system is properly grounded, minor faults in a circuit can cause dangerous shock to a person using an electrical appliance in a damp location or near water. For this reason, the National Electrical Code now requires a Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) to be connected to (a) every bathroom outlet, (b) at least one garage and one basement receptacle, (c) kitchen counter receptacles within 6 feet of the sink, and (d) all outdoor receptacles with direct access to the yard or a pool.

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The GFCI senses the flow of electricity through a circuit. If more current is flowing through the black ("hot") wire than the white ("neutral") wire, there is a current leakage. The GFCI, which can sense a ground leak of as little as .005 amps, will shut off the current in 1/40 of a second, which is fast enough to prevent injury. If you do have Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupters, it is recommended that you test (and reset) them monthly. When you push the test button, the reset button should pop out, shutting off the circuit. If you don't test them once a month, the breakers have a tendency to stick, and may not protect you when needed. Further protection is provided in the electrical system by the use of polarized plugs and outlets. These ensure that the hot and neutral wires of an appliance connect to the hot and neutral wires inside the receptacle. Polarized plugs have one prong wider than the other, so that the plug can only be inserted the correct way. Three-prong plugs are automatically polarized because the hot and neutral prongs are properly positioned in the outlet by the grounding plug.

Conductors: Most electrical wire is made of copper. Some houses built or remodeled between the early 1950s and 1979 were wired with aluminum. The letters AL or the word ALUMINUM stamped on the plastic covering or cable can identify such wiring. In some very early cases, the aluminum wiring was in a steel metal jacket. Aluminum wiring can be hazardous because of its tendency to oxidize and its incompatibility with other metals used in the electrical system. Poor connections can create electrical resistance, which may in turn cause overheating and fire. A house with aluminum wiring may not need to be completely rewired, but may require "pig tailing" of each wire with copper, the only method approved by the Consumer Products Safety Commission. Warning signs of unsafe aluminum wiring include: • Warm or warped outlet and switch cover plates • Smoke or sparks coming from outlets and switches • Strange odors in the area of outlets and switches • Periodic flickering of lights • Untraceable problems with plug-in lights and appliances. Only a licensed electrician should be allowed to evaluate and repair these potentially dangerous situations. Modern electrical cables are usually composed of two, three or four insulated wires enclosed in a metallic (called armored) jacket, or in a non-metallic plastic or cloth jacket.

In older homes, the conductors are sometimes not enclosed in jackets, but run singly, supported on porcelain fittings or behind special wood molding. This is called knob-and-tube-wiring. Sections of the system may be visible in an unfinished basement or attic or the molding may be seen on finished walls and ceilings. While knob-and-tube wiring is not inherently dangerous, it is old, and its insulation may no longer be intact. Much of it will be concealed behind walls, ceilings, and insulation, where its condition cannot be completely evaluated. It is also not a grounded system, and is therefore more hazardous than others, especially in kitchens, bathrooms, and garages, as well as near pools, outdoor outlets, and indoor outlets. If you have knob-and-tube wiring it would be wise to have the system inspected and repaired by a licensed electrician. If necessary, it should be replaced. SAFETY RULES 1. Never work with electricity when hands or feet are

damp. 2. Never remove service panel covers. 3. Don't use outlet multiplier plugs to connect lamps

and appliances whose amperage totals more than the capacity of the circuit.

4. Avoid using extension cords whenever possible. Never run them across hallways or doorways, under carpeting or furniture, or through walls. Never staple them in place.

5. Never replace blown fuses with larger amp fuses. 6. Don't cut the grounding (3rd) prong off a plug to fit

it into a two-hole receptacle. 7. Keep electrical appliances (e.g. hair dryers, radios,

shavers) away from bathtubs, sinks, and showers. 8. Don't pull cords out of receptacles by the wire. Hold

by the plug and pull. 9. Replace worn or frayed lamp and appliance wires. 10. Don't try to extinguish small electrical fires with

water. Use baking soda or a Type 'C' household halon extinguisher that is rated for electrical fires.

11. All electrical work done in a house should be inspected and approved by the local authorities.

12. Always disconnect a circuit before making repairs on it or installing a light fixture.

13. When in doubt, call a licensed electrician.

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HEATING systems in Northern climates are generally either forced warm air or a boiler system. Electric baseboard heating is usually controlled locally and is not considered to be a central system. The life expectancy of a cast-iron boiler is from 35 to 50 years; the newer steel boilers last from 15 to 25 years. In hot air systems, the heating unit is called a furnace, which has an average life expectancy of 15 to 25 years. Heating systems differ in how they work, but have a few common features.

The Burner

All heating systems that use gas or oil as a fuel burn this fuel in a combustion chamber, or fire box. Oil fuel is injected into the combustion chamber by an oil or fuel gun powered by an electric motor. An oil gun mixes droplets of oil with air and then shoots this mixture into the combustion chamber under pressure, very much like a perfume atomizer or carburetor. Oil systems use an electrode, which works like a spark plug, to ignite the fuel. Gas enters the combustion chamber either under its own line pressure, just as gas enters the kitchen stove, or under boosted pressure. Gas systems use an electrode or pilot light to ignite the gas when the furnace or boiler turns on. A draft diverter protects pilot lights, which is a system of baffles that prevents the blower from extinguishing the pilot light. Safety Devices

In an oil-burning system, if the thermostat calls for the heating system to come on, and fuel enters the system but does not ignite, highly flammable and explosive fuel spews into the combustion chamber and creates a dangerous situation. To prevent this from continuing, one or more of the following cutoff devices are used in oil-burning boilers and furnaces. A flame tester operates like an electric "eye" and automatically shuts down the system if it senses no flame (light) in the combustion chamber after oil is pumped in. A stack relay senses temperature in the flue and shuts off the system if temperature remains low after the boiler or furnace kicks on and fails to ignite. A system that has been shut off by the flame tester or stack relay will not operate again until a reset button is pressed. Pressing the reset button is one of the few troubleshooting procedures the homeowner can safely perform in trying to get a nonfunctioning oil system to work. However, if a safety device shuts down the system twice, a professional must service the system. In short: Never press the reset

button more than once in an attempt to get a system to work.

All gas-fired systems have a safety device called a thermocouple. It shuts the gas off if the pilot light goes out or the thermocouple is defective. The Thermostat

Familiar to all homeowners, this temperature-sensitive device contains metal elements that close an electrical circuit at a set minimum temperature and turn on the heating system. When a set maximum temperature is reached, the circuit opens and the system shuts down. Clock thermostats have a small clock that can be adjusted so the system maintains a lower temperature during the night, thus conserving energy. Multiple-setback thermostats permit even more complex and frequent temperature setting changes, and may be desirable if no one is home during the day. An Essential Safety Inspection Every month during the heating season, examine an oil-burning system for signs of "puff backs." These are black soot stains around the doors of the boiler or furnace, or at the seams of the flue pipe where it enters the boiler or furnace. If such signs appear, it is imperative that a professional repairperson corrects the problem; puff backs indicate a fire hazard exists; poisonous gases are escaping into the house, or both. Examine the flue pipe of an oil- or gas-burning system for soot, holes, or corrosion. Call a professional to correct these conditions. Professional and Do-It-Yourself Maintenance The professional heating contractor is the best person to take care of regular servicing, particularly those items in each system recommended for annual or semi-annual performance checks. Not only will the professional perform the specific tasks you request; he or she should adjust the entire system for optimal operation. When you do those homeowner's tasks suggested for each system, always shut off electric power to the heating system so that the system doesn't operate unexpectedly. When you have completed your tasks, remember to turn the system back on.

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Use a vacuum to clean every thermostat every 3 months, but be careful. The mechanism is fragile and should remain level. Vacuum radiators, baseboard units, and heat registers about every month so that they remain free of dust and radiate heat efficiently. On oil systems, examine the fuel gun and lubricate it three times a year if there are exposed lubrication points. Chimneys used in oil-fired systems should be cleaned by a professional chimney sweep every other year to prevent the accumulation of incompletely burned materials. These can cause chimney fires. Furthermore, it is possible for debris to build up at the base of the chimney, and this could block the passage of flue gases on their way up. Buildup in gas-fired systems is less of a problem and need only be evaluated periodically by a chimney sweep.

Hot-Air Systems A forced-air furnace in a typical small residence burns either gas or Number 2 fuel oil. This produces hot gases that pass through a heat exchanger. The heat exchanger transfers heat to clean air while keeping that air separated from the hot flue gases, which may contain carbon mon-oxide and can be lethal if allowed to accumulate in the home. The flue gases, after giving up much of their heat, are directed up the flue and out the chimney. A blower or basket fan blows the warmed air through the plenum and the house ductwork.

After reaching the rooms through outlet vents, called supply registers, the air cools and is drawn back to the furnace through return registers. At the furnace, the air is again heated and distributed throughout the house. Somewhere in the system, usually at the point where returning air enters the furnace, a filter or two is positioned to clean the air.

Forced-air heating systems are also equipped with automatic blower-control switches. It is usually undesirable for the blower to come on immediately after the house thermostat calls for heat, because this would only circulate cool air around the house. Instead, a setting on the blower-control switch keeps the blower off until the air near the heat exchanger reaches a preset temperature. A different setting on the blower control keeps the blower on for a while after the furnace turns off. The furnace is still very hot, and it would warp and buckle if the blower did not continue to force air through it.

Limit switches are safety devices that shut down the furnace when the temperature inside the heat exchanger exceeds the maximum allowable, usually 205 degrees F.

Since the air coming from a forced-air system is inherently dry, many systems are equipped with

humidifiers. Different types of humidifiers are available, the most effective being an electrically operated model that sells for about $300 to $500 installed. It puts controlled amounts of moisture into the air. The drip type and other similar humidifiers, although appreciably less expensive, don't permit as precise control, and may not provide an acceptable level of comfort. They may also cause premature corrosion of the heat exchanger by allowing too much water into the system. Inspection Inspect your forced-air heating system twice a year, at the beginning of and midway through the heating season.

A good sense of smell is an important tool in inspections of heating systems. If you ever detect the odor of oil or gas anywhere in the house, turn off the system and contact a heating contractor immediately. Fuel odors may be due to an ignition failure caused by a simultaneous malfunctioning of the pilot light or electric ignition and failure of the safety shutdown elements. Odors are more likely to be noticed in an oil-fired system than a gas-fired one, since natural gas is lighter than air and tends to vent up the flue. Fuel odors indicate a hazardous and potentially deadly condition. Don't delay having this situation investigated.

Likewise, the odor of flue gases should be looked into and corrected immediately. A blocked chimney or flue pipe, or a damaged heat exchanger can cause this odor. Dark stains appearing around the room registers are a subtler symptom of these problems. Another sign is excessive condensation, especially noticeable around win-dows, because a major component of flue gas is water vapor. This could signal a leak in the heat exchanger or flue that requires immediate repair.

Begin your investigation by taking a close look at the furnace. Listen to it as well. If you hear unusual clunking or growling noises while the blower is on, the problem might be worn fan bearings or a loose or defective fan belt. These noises could indicate either the need for relatively simple furnace manufacturer's manual for the homeowner.

Lubricate the fan motor twice a year, once at the beginning of the heating season and once midway through the season, or as recommended by the manufacturer. At the same time, lubricate any other motor or bearing in the system. Flush mineral deposits from the humidifier twice a year.

Once a year, vacuum all exposed accessible surfaces in and around the furnace, particularly within the blower compartment and burner. Have your furnace professionally serviced every year before the start of the heating season.

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Many utility companies provide this service for their customers.

Replace disposable air filters, or clean washable and electrostatic filter plates, every month. Examine the registers periodically for dark stains. Steam Heat As the name implies, steam is the medium by which heat is distributed through the house. An oil- or gas-fired burner heats water in the boiler until it becomes steam. The hot steam rises through pipes that bring it to radiators in each room. After the steam gives up its heat, it cools and condenses into water again. This water is known as condensate. It returns by the force of gravity to the boiler, where it is recycled into steam.

Steam heating may use a single pipe system, in which the steam rises and the condensate falls through the same pipe; or a two-pipe system, in which steam rises through one pipe and condensate falls through another. Most private homes with steam heat have single-pipe systems. Radiators must be tilted so that the condensate does not accumulate and block the pipe. Each radiator must be equipped with a valve called an air vent that permits air to escape from the radiator, allowing steam to enter. If an air valve is blocked or closed, no steam will be able to enter the radiator, and it will not get hot. Additional air vents called quick vents are usually installed on branch circuits of the system to allow air to escape. Many large houses with two-pipe steam systems use steam traps instead of air vents. A steam trap is a thermostatically controlled device located in each radiator at the return pipe. The steam trap closes and blocks off the return pipe when it senses the hot steam. The steam can then fill the radiator. When the steam condenses, the cooler water lowers the temperature at the trap, and the trap opens. The water returns to the boiler, and the radiator can vent itself through the return system.

There are several devices on a steam boiler that control its operation. One such safety device is the low-water cutoff. Since some water is lost from a steam system through unnoticeable leaks and air vents, it is important for the homeowner to check and replenish the water supply, as needed, at least once a week-twice a week is preferable-during the heating season. (The boiler will have a sight glass, a gauge that shows the water level.) If this is not done, or if there is a large loss of water for some other reason, the low-water cutoff prevents the boiler from firing and seriously damaging itself, possibly beyond repair. It is also imperative that water be drained until it runs clear from the low water cutoff once a month during the heating season, and that the boiler is refilled with clean water.

Many steam boilers also have an automatic water feed, either as part of the low-water cutoff or as a separate unit. This monitors the water level in the boiler and adds water to the system when it drops below a preset level. Although this feature eliminates the need to fill the boiler by hand, the homeowner must still check the boiler's water level to make certain the water feed is working.

An aquastat, a thermostat that senses water temperature, triggers the boiler periodically, even when the room thermostat is not calling for heat, in order to keep the boiler water hot. An aquastat is installed when the boiler is used to provide hot tap water, which is kept hot by passing through a coil of pipe or tubing that is submerged in the boiler water. There must be no mixing of boiler water and hot tap water. Boiler water picks up corrosion from radiators, pipes, and the boiler itself, and it is unfit for domestic use. In addition, boiler water frequently contains poisonous chemical additives that inhibit rust.

Once the thermostat signals for heat, the boiler fires until the minimum room temperature reaches that set on the thermostat. This could keep the boiler firing all day in frigid weather, and pressure in the boiler would become excessive. For this reason, a device known as a pressurtrol is attached to the steam boiler. The pressurtrol shuts down the boiler once a preset pressure is reached, usually about 3/4 to 1'/2 pounds per square inch (psi). When the pressure drops by another preset amount, usually '/2 to 1 psi, the boiler is again allowed to fire until the preset pressure is reached again.

The pressurtrol is an operating control as opposed to a safety device. It is expected to shut down and turn on the boiler firing mechanism during normal operation of the system. The relief valve, on the other hand, is a safety mechanism that allows hot steam to blow off into the boiler room when the pressure becomes excessive and threatens safety, usually between 12 and 15 psi. This mechanism is not expected to be triggered during normal operation of the steam boiler. A relief valve is needed in case the pressurtrol fails.

Sometimes found in steam boilers in private homes, and required in certain parts of the United States for steam systems in multiple-family dwellings, the manually resettable pressurtrol is a cross between a high-pressure relief valve and a pressurtrol. The pressure setting on a manually resettable pressurtrol is higher than that for the regular pressurtrol, but much lower than the setting for a safety relief valve. Still, this pressure should not be reached during the normal operation. If it is, something is wrong with the system and this device shuts it down. The resettable pressurtrol prevents the boiler from firing again until the reset button is pushed. The reset button is usually red and appears only on the resettable pressurtrol; otherwise the two types of pressurtrols look very much

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alike. The purpose of the reset button is to get the attention of the homeowner or superintendent responsible for the operation of the system. Do not simply reset it and forget it. Call in professional help. Inspection and Maintenance Conduct an inspection of your steam heating system at the start of and midway through the heating season.

Turn off the power to the boiler, and locate the sight glass. Check the level of water in the boiler, and fill the boiler as necessary. Once the water is up to its proper level, fire up the boiler by setting the house thermostat to a temperature higher than that in the room in which it is located. The boiler should fire and continue to run. With the boiler running and a bucket placed under the low-water cutoff cleanout, open the cleanout (or blow-off) valve and let some water run into the bucket. The boiler should shut down automatically as water runs out the cleanout. If the boiler does not shut off, the low-water cutoff is not working properly. In that case, fill the boiler to the correct level, and call a heating contractor to repair or replace the device.

While the system is working, monitor the water level over several days. If you note an excessive loss of water, as compared with your previous experience with the boiler, search for leakage. Water can leak from a cracked pipe, a defective air vent, a shut-off valve, or, in the worst case, a cracked boiler. Usually a cracked boiler will flood the basement, and the loss of water will shut down the system. But a boiler that is losing water does not always leave telltale puddles nearby. Sometimes the boiler leaks into the burner, and the leaking water evaporates and goes up the chimney. If this is the case, the only way to determine whether the boiler is leaking is to give it a pressure test, a job that must be left to a professional heating contractor.

You may find that the water level in the boiler is rising rather than staying the same or falling. It may be that a hole or crack in the hot tap water coil, if you have one, is allowing water to pass out of the coil into the boiler water. If so, the coil needs replacement. Another possible cause of rising water level is a defective automatic-fill valve. In either case, call a professional heating contractor.

Look for smoke stains around the boiler wherever there is a joint or seam. This may indicate puff backs caused by late ignition, calling for an adjustment of the oil gun by a professional.

After inspecting the boiler itself, go from room to room checking the radiators and looking for problems. If you find one or more radiators that do not heat up when others on the same floor do, there is a good chance that the air vents on the cold radiators are broken. To replace an air vent, turn off the heating system, unscrew the defective

vent, and take it to your hardware or plumbing-supply store so that you can purchase an effective replacement. Simply screw the new part into the same radiator. Air vents differ in how readily they release air out of the radiator-they operate at different pressures. Lower numbers (l, 2, 3, 4) or letters earlier in the alphabet (A, B, C, D) normally indicate a lower pressure rating, which means the vent will work and the radiator heat up more quickly. If you want the radiator to heat up faster, a vent with a lower number or an earlier-in-the alphabet letter should be used to replace the existing one.

Another reason for a cold or cool radiator is a defective shut-off valve or one that is simply turned off. Shut-off valves are usually right-hand valves and close down if turned clockwise; they turn on when rotated counterclockwise. If opening the shut-off valve completely doesn't cause the radiator to function, the valve may be defective. Replacement of a radiator shut-off valve should be done by a plumber or heating contractor.

Once a month during the heating season, shut off the power to the boiler, drain off the low-water cutoff until the water runs clear, and fill the boiler to the appropriate level. Lubricate all motors in the system twice a year, once at the beginning of and again midway into the heating season. Replace air valves when they get noisy or when a radiator refuses to heat up. Never paint air valves. Dealing with Problems If during the heating season your steam system shuts down, there are a few things to check before calling a service person: • Check to see that the power switch has not been inadvertently shut off. • Check the circuit breaker or fuse protecting the circuit to the boiler. Replace the fuse if it's blown, or reset the circuit breaker. Examine the sight glass to determine whether there is adequate water in the boiler. This is a common cause for shutdown. Press the reset button. Do this only once; more often will tend to flood the boiler with fuel. Check the thermostat. Turn the setting down and then up to see if the unit goes on. It may be that the contacts on the thermostat are dirty. Wipe the contacts with a clean piece of rough paper from a brown paper bag. Do not disturb other elements of the thermostat as you do this.

If the above steps don't restore the system to normal operation, call a professional.

Hot-Water Heating In this type of system the medium for the transfer of heat is water. The water is not boiled and turned into steam, but

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heated to a maximum temperature of about 200 degrees F. One of the advantages of the hot-water system is that the water can be circulated at a temperature well below the maximum if it is not very cold outside. The circulating water temperature can be in the 90 to 100 degree range and provide sufficient warmth at less cost and without very hot radiators.

When the thermostat signals for heat in the circulating hot-water system, the boiler fires and a pump called the circulator turns on. Water circulates through the system as it increases in temperature, warming radiators, baseboard units, or, in the case of radiant heat, coils embedded in the floor or ceiling. If the boiler is designed to fire when triggered by the thermostat, it is called a "demand operation."

If the boiler is also used for heating household water, a minimum boiler temperature must be maintained continuously, even when the thermostat is not calling for heat.

Devices that measure the temperature of boiler and circulating water are called aquastats, and are either low-limit or high-limit switches, depending on their function. Low-limit switches turn on and high-limit switches turn off the system.

Most boilers in hot-water systems are equipped with an automatic fill mechanism that adds water to the system when the pressure drops below a preset value, usually about 12 psi for single- or two-story homes. Frequently a combination regulator/ relief valve is used. The regulator allows fresh water to enter when the system pressure drops below the 12-psi limit, and the relief valve allows water to drain out when the pressure exceeds the upper limit, usually 30 psi. The relief valve is a safety device; pressure should not exceed 30 psi during normal operation. If the relief valve is allowing water to drain, something is wrong in the system.

A common cause of excessive pressure is a waterlogged expansion tank. Water cannot be compressed, and its volume increases greatly as it is heated; therefore pressure increases greatly when water is heated within a confined space. The expansion tank is included in the system to allow water to increase in volume without creating excessive pressure. (The expansion bottle attached to your car's radiator works the same way.) There are two types of expansion tanks used with hot-water heating systems. One is a bladder type that can be serviced only by a professional. It usually requires very little, if any, maintenance. The other is a plain empty tank, which needs to be bled of excess water annually. The homeowner can do this by closing the isolation valve, which shuts the tank off from the system, and opening the drain valve. Water emptying from the tank should be directed either to a large bucket or by hose to a sink. Continue until the tank is

empty. Then close the drain valve and open the isolation valve so the system will again function.

A common distribution system for hot-water heating is the single-pipe series loop. Hot water leaves the boiler and moves in one continuous line through each radiator or baseboard unit in succession, eventually returning to the boiler. The main difficulty with this arrangement is that no one radiator can be turned off individually, since doing so would stop circulation in the entire system. For this reason, some single-pipe loop systems have branch pipes that individually connect each radiator or baseboard unit to the main supply line. If one unit is shut down, the hot water simply bypasses it.

Another configuration, the two-pipe system, has one line that supplies the hot water and another that brings the cooled water back to the boiler to be reheated. Radiators and baseboard units, equipped with shut-off valves, are individually connected to each of these two pipes, allowing for any unit to be turned off without affecting the others. This type of system requires the periodic bleeding of each of the radiators or baseboard units. To bleed a radiator means to open its bleeder valve and release trapped air. The bleeder valves are operated either by a screwdriver or by a special key that can be purchased at most hardware stores. With the circulator running, the bleeder valve is kept open until all the trapped air is released and a steady stream of water begins to come from the valve. Be sure to have a cup ready to catch the water before opening the valve. The valve is then shut.

A circulating hot-water heating system can be easily "zoned," allowing for separate areas of the home, or zones, to be heated independently. Each zone has its own thermostat and an electrically operated valve on its supply line. Whenever a thermostat demands heat, the valve to that zone opens and the circulator pushes hot water through it. In some zoned systems, usually in larger homes, each zone has its own circulator.

The motors of the circulators must be oiled at least once and preferably twice a year with electric motor oil. With proper lubrication, a circulator should last 25 years. But if left un-lubricated, the life expectancy can be as little as 6 months.

In the past, gravity hot-water heating systems were used. Although not common today, they are still found in a few older homes. In a gravity hot water system the circulator and expansion tank are not present, and the water system is usually vented through the roof. Some of these systems do use an expansion tank, placed close to the roof vent.

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Inspection and Maintenance An inspection should be done at least twice a year, once at the beginning and once during the middle of the heating season.

First check the relief valve on the boiler to make sure that it is not dumping water on the floor. If it is, check the reading on the pressure gauge on the boiler. If the pressure is excessive (30 psi or more for a single-family home), the expansion tank is in need of purging, as described earlier. If the pressure gauge reads normal (12 psi for a single family home) and water is still being dumped, either the relief valve or the pressure gauge itself is defective.

Bear in mind, a damaged hot-water coil in a boiler that produces household hot water as well as heat may also cause excessive pressure. If the coil develops a leak, water from the main supply system will leak into the boiler water. A faulty pressure-reducing valve on the automatic feed can also cause excessive boiler pressure.

If you notice that the circulator is noisy, try some lubricating oil. If this doesn't work, have it serviced by a heating contractor.

You should regularly carry out a few procedures to maintain your system. Shut off electric power to the heating system before doing the following maintenance work:

• As mentioned, lubricate the circulator and motors twice a year, once at the beginning of and once midway through the heating season.

• Drain water from non-bladder type expansion tanks at the beginning of each heating season.

• Check the relief valve each week during the heating season for water dumping, and check the reading of the pressure gauge.

• Bleed the expansion tank if necessary. • Bleed radiators or baseboard units before each

heating season and as needed. Electric Heating in Brief There are two types of electric heating systems: the heat pump type, in which heat is extracted from the outside air, and the resistance type, in which electricity passing through an element is converted to heat. A heat pump is actually an air conditioner working in reverse (see chapter 10). In both cases, management of the system is very important because of the high cost of electricity. Fortunately, maintenance is low, and since there is no fuel combustion in the house, no chimney is required.

Proper insulation is critical to the satisfactory and economical operation of electrical systems. Having sufficient insulation in the attic is particularly important since heat rises and most of the heat loss from a house is through its top. Most homes designed for electric heating are adequately insulated. In cold climates, homes that use

electric heat require a minimum of 12 inches of fiberglass insulation in the floor of the attic. (Homes warmed by non-electric heating systems require a minimum of 6 inches of such insulation.) Frequently foam board insulation is placed around the foundation of a building when electric heat is to be used. In some cases, additional panels of insulation are placed on the exterior walls before installing the exterior siding.

Resistance heating usually employs either baseboard panels secured to the wall, each containing its own heating element, or electric "radiant" heating panels in the ceilings. The only maintenance required with this type of system is periodic vacuuming of the baseboard units to keep them dust free.

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VENTING If you're like most homeowners, you know the importance of insulating and tightening up your house to conserve energy. But what you may not know is that certain areas of a house need to breathe. One of these areas is the attic, which requires proper ventilation not only to maintain comfort below, but also to keep the very roof over your head solid and secure! There are two particular villains that proper ventilation will fend off. These are heat and humidity. Heat comes from the sun, and in summer a poorly ventilated attic can reach temperatures as high as 150 °F. - which means that even with insulation in the attic floor, the rooms below will be hotter than is necessary, less comfortable, and more expensive to air condition. Excess heat can also shorten the life of some roofing materials.

Soffit Vent Humidity comes primarily from within the house, drifting upward from showers, unvented clothes dryers, humidifiers and kitchen ranges. It also comes from other, not so obvious sources. The very act of breathing expels water into the atmosphere - at the rate of 1/2 pint per hour for the average family of four! Mopping the kitchen floor (about 150 square feet) releases 4 1/2 pints of water, and washing the dinner dishes - 1/2 pint. A windblown rain can also cause water to enter and evaporate into the attic area through roof leaks. During cold weather, water vapor may condense in various areas of an insufficiently ventilated attic, seeping into wooden rafters or roof sheathing and rotting them. Moisture in the attic area can cause roof shingles to buckle and insulation to lose its effectiveness. It also creates an environment that is conducive to mildew.

You need proper attic ventilation to help: • Prevent structural damage caused by moisture • Increase the life of the roofing material • Reduce energy consumption • Enhance the comfort level of the rooms below the attic. Now that you know why it is crucial to maintain adequate ventilation in your attic, how do you do it? There are a variety of ways, and the right one will depend on the style and structure of your own roof. CHECK YOUR ATTIC First, it is wise to determine whether or not the existing ventilation is adequate. You can do this by placing a thermometer in the attic on a warm windless day to see if

the temperature that is being maintained is more than 10° to 15°F warmer than the outside temperature. If it is, then more ventilation is needed. In addition, if periodic inspections during the winter reveal any signs of condensation - such as moisture, rot or mildew - then improved ventilation would be helpful. Regardless of roof geometry, there is usually a small amount of built-in ventilation where the roof and wall structures meet. That slight space allows for some amount of air circulation through the attic. In addition to the free flow of air, insulation plays a key role in proper attic ventilation. In fact, the ideal attic has: • A gap-free layer of insulation on the floor to protect the

house below from heat gain or loss • A vapor barrier under the insulation next to the warm

ceiling below to stop moisture from rising into the attic enough open, vented spaces, properly located, to allow air to pass in and out freely

• A minimum of 1 1/2" between the insulation and the roof sheathing.

RULE OF THUMB: The requirements for proper attic ventilation may vary greatly, depending upon the part of the country in which the home is located as well as the conditions at the home site, such as exposure to the sun, shade and atmospheric humidity. Nevertheless, the general formula is based on the length and width of the attic itself. The minimum recommendation, set by the Federal Housing Administration, is one square foot of free vent area for each 150 square feet of attic floor - if there is no vapor barrier under your insulation. With a vapor barrier you need half that amount. For example, 1200 square feet of attic floor would require eight square feet of free vent area, or four square feet if there were a vapor barrier. You don't need to crawl around the attic to determine the square footage of the floor. Simply measure the length and width of the house itself and multiply them to get the necessary square footage figure. The next question is: What determines free vent area? It's not as simple as the size of the opening the vent sits in. Louvers and screening - which are necessary to keep out rain, insects and so on - decrease the amount of air that can pass through, and that must be taken into account in calculating adequate ventilation. Therefore, if louvers and screens are present, multiply the needed vent area by three.

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(Helpful Hint: If you're buying new vents, most now on the market are labeled with the free vent area they provide.)

OUT WITH THE OLD AIR, IN WITH THE NEW Once you've determined your ideal total free vent area, then you need to divide it roughly in half for: Inlet vents, which should be located under the eaves (called the "soffit" area) or low on the roof face, and Outlet vents, which should be located at the roof ridge, in gables or cupolas, or otherwise, near the top of the roof. Since hot air rises, this type of system takes advantage of a natural "chimney effect" and air movement will be created through the attic, even when there is no wind. (Wind will cause an even greater movement of air.) The "ridge and soffit" vent combination can be applied to the majority of roofs in this country, which are gable style, or pitched. In most cases, houses of this type feature louvered openings in the end walls of the roofs; but unless these vents are perpendicular to the predominant breezes, their effectiveness is limited. In regions of the country where the heat is extreme, attic ventilation can be enhanced by the use of a wind turbine exhaust vent. On a hot, still day, the heat rising up in the attic will start the turbine spinning - and the more heat going out, the faster it will spin. Add a little wind, and you've got almost a self-propelled vacuum cleaner!

ROOFS WITH SHALLOW PITCHES Flat roofs and roofs with shallow pitches are another story. It can sometimes be difficult to ventilate properly the cavity beneath such roofs. If there are overhangs, continuous soffit venting can be employed. In some cases, louvers placed in the fascia board will do the job. Another important point about flat or slightly pitched roofs: Since there is very little air space between the lower ceiling and the underside of the roof structure, your insulation should be at least 1-1/2" thinner than the roof cavity. Otherwise, water condensed from moist house air can be trapped in the insulation, making it useless, and allowing rot and mildew to get a foothold.

MOTORIZING YOUR VENTILATION Some people want to give the natural circulation created by ridge, soffit and gable vents a helping hand. In this case, the solution may be a motorized attic fan - not to be confused with a whole house fan, which is usually located in the ceiling of the top floor.

Attic fans are generally mounted on the outside of the roof structure or in a gable end. A thermostat usually activates them. As the temperature increases, the fan will go on automatically. This type of fan can also be activated by a humidistat. As the humidity level increases, the fan turns on. Ideally, attic fans should have both a humidistat and a thermostat, since ventilation is needed to remove winter moisture as well as summer heat.

SOME FINAL POINTS REGARDING ATTIC VENTILATION : • To maintain the most efficient attic ventilation, make sure

that vents from your bath, kitchen and laundry are not routed to the attic, but instead go directly to the outside.

• Never block off your attic ventilation in winter, since

moisture generated inside the house that rises to the attic can cause more problems in winter than in summer. With proper insulation between the attic floor and ceiling below, the ventilation will not lower the temperature in the house.

• If you are unsure about the correctness and efficiency of your attic ventilation, consult an ASHI home inspector. He is highly qualified to judge the current condition of your ventilation, and to recommend methods to increase its effectiveness.

26

1. Gable stud 25. Doorjamb 49. Window well wall 73. Finish floor 2. Collar beam 26. Garage door 50. Grade line 74. Ash dump 3. Ceiling joist 27. Downspout shoe 51. Basement sash 75. Door trim-casing 4. Ridge board 28. Sidewalk 52. Window well 76. Fireplace hearth 5. Insulation 29. Entrance post 53. Corner brace 77. Floor joists 6. Chimney cap 30. Entrance platform 54. Corner stud 78. Stair riser 7. Chimney flues 31. Stair riser 55. Window frame 79. Firebrick 6. Chimney 32. Stair stringer 56. Window light 80. Newel cap 9. Chimney flashing 33. Girder post 57. Wall studs 81. Stair tread 10. Rafters 34. Chair rail 58. Header 82. Finish stringer 11. Ridge 35. Cleanout door 59. Window cripple 83. Stair rail 12. Roof boards 36. Furring strips 60. Wall sheathing 84. Balusters 11. Stud 37. Corner stud 61. Building paper 85. Plaster arch 14. Eave gutter 38. Girder 62. Pilaster 86. Mantel 15. Roofing 39. Gravel fill 63. Rough header 87. Floor joists 16. Blind or shutter 40. Concrete floor 64. Window stud 88. Bridging 17. Bevel siding 41. Foundation footing 65. Cornice molding 89. Lookout 18. Downspout gooseneck 42. Paper strip 66. Fascia board 90. Attic space 19. Downspout strap 43. Drain tile 67. Window casing 91. Metal lath 20. Downspout leader 44. Diagonal sub floor 68. Lath 92. Window sash 21. Double plate 45. Foundation wall 69. Insulation 93. Chimney breast 22. Entrance canopy 46. Sill plate 70. Wainscoting 94. Newel 23. Garage cornice 47. Backfill 71. Baseboard 24. Fascia 48. Termite shield 72. Building paper

27

FOUNDATION CONCERNS

An independent inspector with no contractor affiliation means that the inspection may cost more than a contractor’s, but there is no motivation to find problems.

Hire an independent inspector because: 1) Many basements require only grading

changes. 2) Many cracked walls do not

require immediate reinforcing or

excavation. 3) An inspector does not need

to keep a repair crew and equipment busy.

4) An inspector can tell you what fair and

reasonable prices should be. 5) An

inspector can help plan the least costly

appropriate repair.

Don't hire a contractor to inspect a basement because:

1) They have men and equipment that they

need to provide work for all year. 2) Many

use unusual methods that art not approved

by local codes. 3) They make money off

repairs, not inspections. 4) If you have one

or two contractors bid on the job how do

you know the prices are fair.

Test – True/ False 1) An independent inspector is more likely to provide an unbiased opinion than a repair contractor.

2) It is required in most municipalities to get a permit before structural repairs or waterproofing is done.

3) It is illegal in most municipalities to reinforce bowed walls with rods and concrete.

4) Municipalities do approve other methods to reinforce some bowed walls.

5) You'll pay less in the long run with an independent basement inspection. 1) T 2) T 3) T 4) T 5) T

28

29

Chapter RL 134 STANDARDS OF PRACTICE RL 134.01 Authority. The rules in this chapter are adopted pursuant to ss. 227.11 (2), 440.974, 440,975, 440,978 and 440.999, Stats. RL 134.02 General requirements. (l) A home inspector shall perform a reasonably competent and diligent home inspection of the readily accessible installed systems and components required to be inspected under s. RL 134.03 to detect observable conditions of an improvement to residential real property. A reasonably competent and diligent home inspection is not required to be technically exhaustive. (2) This section does not require a home inspector to do any of the following: a) Offer a warranty of guarantee of any kind. b) Calculate the strength, adequacy or efficiency of any component of an

improvement to residential real property. c) Enter any area or perform any procedure that may damage an

improvement to residential real property or a component of an improvement to residential real property, or enter any area or perform any procedure that may be dangerous to the home inspector or to other persons.

d) Operate any component of an improvement to residential real property that is inoperable.

e) Operate any component of an improvement to residential real property that does not respond to normal operating controls.

f) Disturb insulation or move personal items, furniture, equipment, vegetation, soil, snow, ice or debris that obstructs access to or visibility of an improvement to residential real property or a component of an improvement to residential real property.

g) Determine the effectiveness of a component of an improvement to residential real property that was installed to control or remove suspected hazardous substances.

h) Evaluate acoustic characteristics of a component of an improvement to residential real property.

i) Project or estimate the operating costs, of a component of an improvement to residential real property.

j) Predict future conditions, including the failure of component of an improvement to residential real property.

k) Inspect for the presence or absence of pests, including rodents, insects and wood-damaging organisms.

l) Inspect cosmetic items, underground items or items not permanently installed.

m) Inspect for the presence of any hazardous substances. n) Disassemble any component of an improvement to residential real

property, except for removing an access panel that is normally removed by an occupant of residential real property.

(3) This section does not prohibit a home inspector from doing any of the following: a) Reporting observations or conditions in addition to those required

under this section. b) Excluding a component of an improvement to residential real property

from the inspection, if requested to do so by his or her client. c) Engaging in an activity that requires an occupation credential if he or

she holds the necessary credential. RL 134.03 Mechanical and structural components included in a home inspection. A reasonably competent and diligent home inspection shall meet the standards in subs. (1) to (11) and shall include an inspection of, and report on, all of the following items that are present on the property at the time of the home inspection. (1) FOUNDATIONS. A home inspector shall observe and describe the type and condition of the foundation. (2) COLUMNS. A home inspector shall observe and describe the type and condition of columns. (3) FLOORING SYSTEMS. A home inspector shall observe and describe the type and condition of flooring systems.

(4) ROOFS. (a) A home inspector shall observe and describe the condition of all of the following: a) Roof coverings, including type. b) Roof drainage systems. c) Flashings. d) Skylights, chimneys and roof penetrations. e) Signs of leaks or abnormal condensation on building components. (b) A home inspector shall describe the methods used to observe the roof. (c) A home inspector is not required to do any of the following: a) Walk on the roofing. b) Observe attached accessories including, but not limited to solar systems,

antennae and lightning arrestors. c) Observe internal gutter and downspout systems and related underground

drainage piping. (5) EXTERIORS. (a) A home inspector shall observe and describe the condition of all of the following: a) Wall claddings, including type. b) Flashings and trim. c) Entryway doors and at least one window per side of a dwelling unit. d) Garage door operators, including whether any garage door operator

automatically reverses or stops when meeting reasonable resistance during closing.

e) Decks, balconies, stoops, steps and porches including railings. f) Eaves, soffits and fascias. g) Grading, drainage, driveways, patios, walkways and retaining walls that

abut the dwelling unit. (b) A home inspector shall operate all entryway doors, garage doors, and at least one window per side of a dwelling unit. (c) A home inspector is not required to observe the following: a) Storm windows, storm doors, screening, shutters, awnings and similar

seasonal accessories. b) Locks, latches or other security devices or systems. c) Intercom systems. d) Fences or privacy walls. e) Insulation or vapor barriers in exterior walls. f) Safety glazing. g) Garage door operator remote control transmitters. h) Geological or soil conditions. i) Recreational facilities. j) Out buildings other than garages and carports. k) Trees, shrubs and other vegetation. (6) PLUMBING SYSTEMS. (a) A home inspector shall observe and describe the condition of all of the following: a) Interior water supply and distribution systems, including piping materials,

supports, fixtures, faucets, functional flow and drainage, leaks and cross connections.

b) Interior drain, waste and vent system, including traps, drain, waste and vent piping, piping supports and leaks.

c) Hot water systems, including water heating equipment, normal operating controls, automatic safety controls and the exterior surfaces of chimneys, flues and vents.

d) Fuel storage and distribution systems, including interior fuel storage equipment, supply piping, venting, supports and leaks.

e) Sump pumps. (b) A home inspector shall operate all plumbing fixtures including

their faucets and accessible exterior faucets attached to the dwelling unit. (c) A home inspector is not required to do any of the following:

a) State the effectiveness of anti-siphon devices. b) Determine whether the water supply and waste disposal system are public

or private. c) Operate automatic safety controls or sump pumps equipped with internal

or water dependent switches. d) Operate any valve except water closet flush valves, fixture faucets and

hose faucets. e) Observe water conditioning systems, fire and lawn sprinkler systems, on-

site water supply quantity and quality, on-site disposal systems, foundation drainage systems or spas.

f) Observe the interior of flues, chimneys and vents, or solar water heating systems.

30

g) Observe any exterior plumbing components such as water mains or swimming pools.

h) Determine water temperature. i) Determine the proper sizing, design or use of plumbing materials. (7) ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS . (a) A home inspector shall observe and describe the condition of all of the following: a) Service entrance conductors. b) Service equipment, grounding equipment, main over current device. c) Main and distribution panels, including their location. d) Amperage and voltage ratings of the service, including whether service

type is overhead or underground. e) Branch circuit conductors, their over current devices and the

compatibility of their ampacities and voltages, including aluminum branch circuit wiring.

f) The operation of a representative number of installed lighting fixtures, switches and receptacles located inside the house, garage and any exterior walls.

g) The polarity and grounding of all receptacles within 6 feet of interior plumbing fixtures in the garage or carport and on the exterior of inspected structures.

h) The operation of ground fault circuit interrupters. i) The functionality of the power sources for smoke detectors. (b) A home inspector is not required to do any of the following: a) Insert any tool, probe or testing device inside the panels. b) Test or operate any over current device except ground fault circuit

interrupters. c) Dismantle any electrical device or control other than to remove the covers

of the main and auxiliary distribution panels. d) Observe low voltage systems, telephones, security systems, cable TV,

intercoms, or other ancillary wiring that is not a part of the primary electrical distribution systems.

e) Measure amperage, voltage or impedance. (8) INTERIORS. (a) A home inspector shall observe and describe the condition of all of the following: a) Wall ceilings and floors. b) Steps, stairways, balconies and railings. c) Counters and all sink base cabinets. d) A random sample of doors and windows. e) Separation walls, ceilings and doors between a dwelling unit and an

attached garage or another dwelling unit. f) Signs of water penetration into the building or signs of abnormal or

harmful condensation on building components. (b) A home inspector is not required to observe any of the following: a) Paint, wallpaper and other cosmetic finish treatments on the interior

walls, ceilings and floors. b) Carpeting. c) Draperies, blinds or other window treatments. d) Household appliances. e) Recreational facilities or another dwelling unit. (9) HEATING SYSTEMS: (a) A home inspector shall observe and describe the condition of all of the following within a permanently installed heating system: a) Heating equipment and distribution systems. b) Normal operating controls and energy source. c) Automatic safety controls d) Exterior surfaces of chimneys, flues and vents. e) Solid fuel heating devices. f) The presence of an installed heat source in each room. (b) A home inspector shall operate the systems using normal operating controls and open readily accessible access panels provided by the manufacturer or installer for routine homeowner maintenance. (c) A home inspector is not required to do any of the following: a) Operate heating systems when weather conditions or other circumstances

may cause equipment damage. b) Operate automatic safety controls. c) Ignite or extinguish fuel fires. d) Observe the interior of flues, fireplace insert flue connectors, humidifiers,

electronic air filters, or the uniformity or adequacy of heat supply to the various rooms.

e) Observe a heat exchanger unless it is readily observable and normally accessible to an occupant of a dwelling unit.

(10) CENTRAL AIR CONDITIONING . (a) A home inspector shall observe and describe the condition of all of the following: a) Cooling and air handling equipment, including type and energy source. b) Normal operating controls. c) The presence of an installed cooling source in each room. (b) A home inspector shall operate the systems using normal operating controls and open readily accessible access panels provided by the manufacturer or installer for routine homeowner maintenance. (c) A home inspector is not required to do any of the following: a) Operate cooling systems when weather conditions or other circumstances

may cause equipment damage. b) Observe non-central air conditioners. c) Observe the uniformity or adequacy of cool-air supply to the various

rooms. d) Operate electronic air filters. e) Observe the pressure of the system coolant or determine the presence of

leakage. f) Test the electrical current drawn by the unit. (11) INSULATION AND VENTILATION . (a) A home inspector shall observe and describe the condition of all of the following: a) The presence or absence of insulation in unfinished spaces. b) Ventilation of attics and foundation areas. c) Kitchen, bathroom and laundry venting systems. (b) A home inspector is not required to observe any of the following: a) Concealed insulation. b) Venting equipment that is integrated with household appliances. RL 134.04 Contents of a home inspection report. (1) After completing a home inspection, a home inspector shall submit a written report to a client that does all of the following: (a) Lists the items described in s. RL134.03 that a home inspector is required to inspect. (b) Lists the items described in s. RL134.03 that a home inspector has inspected. (c) Describes the condition of any item identified in s. RLI34.03. (d) Describes the condition of any item identified in s. RLI34.03 that, if not repaired, will have significant adverse effect on the life expectancy of the identified item. (e) Lists any material adverse facts that a home inspector has knowledge of or has observed. (2) A home inspector is not required to report on any of the following aspects of items identified in s. RLI34.03: a) Their life expectancy. b) The reason for the necessity of a major repair. c) The method of making any repair or correction, the materials needed for

any repair or correction, or the cost of any repair or correction. d) The suitability for any specialized use of an improvement to residential

real property. e) Whether they comply with applicable regulatory requirements. (3) A home inspector may, not report in Writing or verbally on any of the following: a) The market value or marketability of a property. b) Whether a property should be purchased. (4) A home inspector is not required to retain inspectors or investigators to perform follow-up inspections or investigations of any material adverse facts that a home inspector has knowledge of or has observed under sub. (1) (d).

31

Ref. 1.1.1 ↑ Ref. 1.1.2 ↓

Ref. 1.1.3 ↑ Ref. 1.1.4 ↓

Ref. 1.1.5 ↑ Ref. 1.1.6 ↓

Ref. 1.1.7 ↑ Ref. 1.1.8 ↓

32

Ref. 1.2.1 ↑ Ref. 1.2.2 ↓

Ref. 1.2.3 ↑ Ref. 1.2.4 ↓

Ref. 1.2.5 ↑ Ref. 1.2.6 ↓

Ref. 1.2.7 ↑ Ref. 1.2.8 ↓

33

Ref. 2.1.1 ↑ Ref. 2.1.2 ↓

Ref. 2.1.3 ↑ Ref. 2.1.4 ↓

Ref. 2.1.5 ↑ Ref. 2.1.6 ↓

Ref. 2.1.7 ↑ Ref. 2.1.8 ↓

34

Ref. 2.2.1 ↑ Ref. 2.2.2 ↓

Ref. 2.2.3 ↑ Ref. 2.2.4 ↓

Ref. 2.2.5 ↑ Ref. 2.2.6 ↓

Ref. 2.2.7 ↑ Ref. 2.2.8 ↓

35

Ref. 3.1.1 ↑ Ref. 3.1.2 ↓

Ref. 3.1.3 ↓

At least once a year be sure to test the reverse of the Overhead Door Opener. Kids and cats are often tragic victims. If your automatic overhead door closer does not have a safety photo cell, consider replacing it with one that does.

Ref. 3.1.4 ↑ Ref. 3.1.5 ↓

Ref. 3.1.6 ↓

If you have an attached garage, occasionally check for leaks or moisture stains at the upper portion of the wall where it meets the house. You may find worn flashing to be the source of leaks. If the door between the garage and house is not fire rated, consider switching to one that is. Consider installing an automatic door closer or spring-loaded hinges. Install a smoke detector and

36

Carbon Monoxide detector in the house near the entry door from the garage, and in any room that is directly above the garage. In winter, do not warm up your car in the garage.

Ref. 3.2.1 ↑ Ref. 3.2.2 ↓

Ref. 3.2.3↓

Do not use the tops of the rafter ties for storage. They are not designed to hold any significant weight. Excessive weight in this area is often the cause of sagging garage roofs.

Ref. 3.2.4 ↑ Ref. 3.2.5 ↓

Ref. 3.2.6↓

As with the house, keep the exterior grade lower than the siding and keep it pitched away from the structure. Though not mandatory by certain municipal codes, proper roof venting is recommended by shingle manufacturers. Occasionally Central Air conditioning is added to homes after the construction is complete.. Often, the existing ductwork is undersized for the additional load of heavier, cooler air. Though efficiency is compromised, cost conscious homeowners often choose not to replace the existing undersized ducts during a retrofit.

37

Ref. 4.1.1 ↑ Ref. 4.1.2 ↓

Ref. 4.1.3 ↓

Ref. 4.1.4 ↑ Ref. 4.1.5 ↓

Ref. 4.1.6 ↓

Be sure to change the air filters per manufacturer’s recommendation (usually monthly).

38

Be sure to keep debris, leaves, branches, etc, away from the condenser housing. Clean the fins on a regular basis to help keep the unit running efficiently. Have the system serviced regularly to help minimize operating costs.

Ref. 4.2.1 ↑ Ref. 4.2.2 ↓

Ref. 4.2.3↓

Ref. 4.2.4 ↑ Ref. 4.2.5 ↓

Ref. 4.2.6↓

If you feel cool but clammy during times of Air Conditioning operation, the fan speed may be too fast. Contact your service man to adjust the unit.

39

Ref. 5.1.1 ↑ Ref. 5.1.2 ↓

Ref. 5.1.3 ↑ Ref. 5.1.4 ↓

Ref. 5.1.5 ↑ Ref. 5.1.6 ↓

Ref. 5.1.7 ↑ Ref. 5.1.8 ↓

40

Water is the worst enemy of a house. In northern climates, freeze/ thaw cycles in winter can have a dramatic effect on foundation walls. Ice can move walls past the point of structural stability. Properly pitching the soil away from your house helps keep a sound foundation. Years of poor water management on the exterior of a house can lead to expensive repair bills.

Ref. 5.2.1 ↑ Ref. 5.2.2 ↓

Ref. 5.2.3 ↓

Ref. 5.2.4 ↑ Ref. 5.2.5 ↓

Ref. 5.2.6 ↓

The negative effects of poor grading are often only noticed when the time comes to sell your home and a Home Inspector discovers that the basement walls have moved.

41

Be sure to flush your water heater as recommended by the manufacturer. Usually twice per year is sufficient (daylight savings time may help jog your memory).

Ref. 6.1.1 ↑ Ref. 6.1.2 ↓

Ref. 6.1.3 ↓

Ref. 6.1.4 ↑ Ref. 6.1.5 ↓

Ref. 6.1.6 ↓

Often a slow flow rate at a faucet is due to a corroded aerator or screen in the faucet. Sometimes it is due to a shut off valve below a fixture that is not completely opened.

42

Ref. 6.2.1 ↑ Ref. 6.2.2 ↓

Ref. 6.2.3 ↑ Ref. 6.2.4 ↓

Ref. 6.2.5 ↑ Ref. 6.2.6 ↓

Ref. 6.2.7 ↓

With age, galvanize water pipes often become blocked. During a Home Inspection, if a low flow or drain rate is discovered it is difficult to know the extent of the needed repair.

43

Ref. 7.1.1 ↑ Ref. 7.1.2 ↓

Ref. 7.1.3 ↑ Ref. 7.1.4 ↓

Ref. 7.1.5 ↑ Ref. 7.1.6 ↓

Ref. 7.1.7 ↑ Ref. 7.1.8 ↓

44

Most insurance companies are refusing to insure a home unless it has a minimum 100 amp electrical service. Be sure to install ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI’s) in your bathrooms, kitchens and areas near water.

Ref. 7.2.1 ↑ Ref. 7.2.2 ↓

Ref. 7.2.3 ↓

Ref. 7.2.4 ↑ Ref. 7.2.5 ↓

Ref. 7.2.6 ↓

Older homes with knob and tube wiring in the attic should not have insulation covering the wiring. The extra heat could start a fire. If you have the older 2 prong outlets, consider replacing them with 3 hole grounded outlets.

45

Ref. 8.1.1 ↑ Ref. 8.1.2 ↓

Ref. 8.1.3 ↑ Ref. 8.1.4 ↓

Ref. 8.1.5 ↑ Ref. 8.1.6 ↓

Ref. 8.1.7 ↓

Be sure to change furnace filters monthly or per the manufacturer’s recommendation. Dirty filters reduce furnace life and block airflow to the heat exchanger. If not cooled adequately, it may develop a crack that could allow carbon monoxide into your home creating a very hazardous condition. Be Safe!

46

Ref. 8.2.1 ↑ Ref. 8.2.2 ↓

Ref. 8.2.3 ↓

Ref. 8.2.4 ↑ Ref. 8.2.5 ↓

Ref. 8.2.6 ↑ Ref. 8.2.7 ↓

47

Occasionally check the interior wall/ ceiling areas for signs of moisture due to ice damming.

Ref. 9.1.1 ↑ Ref. 9.1.2 ↓

Ref. 9.1.3 ↓

Ref. 9.1.4 ↑ Ref. 9.1.5 ↓

Ref. 9.1.6 ↓

Ice dams can cause damage to insulation, wood framing, plaster and drywall and even lead to mold problems that might not readily be discovered.

48

When refinishing wood windows, leave some of the clear finish on the glass instead of scraping it clean. This provides a seal between the glass and wood sash, which helps prevent premature rotting of the windows.

Ref. 9.2.1 ↑ Ref. 9.2.2 ↓

Ref. 9.2.3 ↓

Ref. 9.2.4 ↑ Ref. 9.2.5 ↓

Ref. 9.2.6 ↓

Be sure to change batteries in your smoke alarms twice each year. (Daylight savings time) Replace the units every seven years. Mount the units on ceilings, not walls. Install at least one carbon monoxide detector.

49

Ref. 10.1.1 ↑ Ref. 10.1.2 ↓

Ref. 10.1.3 ↑ Ref. 10.1.4 ↓

Ref. 10.1.5 ↑ Ref. 10.1.6 ↓

Ref. 10.1.7 ↓

50

Be sure your attic is vented adequately. Try to maintain an indoor/ outdoor temperature difference of no more that 15 degrees. Slightly more low venting than high is preferable

Ref. 10.2.1 ↑ Ref. 10.2.2 ↓

Ref. 10.2.3 ↓

Ref. 10.2.4 ↑ Ref.10.2.5 ↓

Ref. 10.2.6 ↓

Be sure to exhaust kitchen and bathroom fans through the roof or sidewall and not directly into the attic. This may create moisture problems.