1

1

10 Top Experiences

Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary

A slice of heaven in Kumaon, Binsar (p144) invites you to its pristine forests of pine, oak and cedar, which are a paradise for birdwatchers and hikers. Easy picturesque walks to local villages, or up hills that offer breathtaking views, are part of Binsar’s delights. Don’t forget to check out the Mary Budden Estate (p148) here, a plush homestay in a renovated 150-year-old cottage.

Sample chapter

2

210 Top ExpEriEncEs

Toy Train from Kalka to Shimla

There’s something undeniably joyful and romantic about the ‘toy’ train that winds its way up from the plains of Kalka to the grande dame of hill stations, Shimla (p122). You’ll meander along 100km of hilly tracks, through dozens of tunnels and past acres of pine-covered slopes, stopping once in a while at cute little stations, some of which are perfectly preserved from 150 years ago.

3 Shivpuri White-water Rafting

Discover the thrill of riding the rapids of the icy Ganga (p186) on an inflated raft, as the mighty river flows down to the plains. Add to this camp life full of bonhomie on white sandy beaches, with sunbathing and bonfire nights – not to mention the delightful hiking trails on the forested slopes behind – and you have a destination that you'll want to return to repeatedly.

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

3

Getting Around

TrainThe most comfortable way to travel out of Delhi by train is the express Shatabdi. The Shatabdis connect Delhi to Kalka, Dehradun, Kathgodam, Jaipur, Gwalior, Amritsar, Agra, and other cities and towns. Fast and efficient, you can reach your destination in a few hours. A short connecting car ride usually suffices to take you to your final port of call. Book well in advance (booking starts 4 months earlier), particularly in the tourist seasons (Jun–Jul, Dec–Jan). There are also a few overnight trains, which are a good option for some destinations.

CarZipping off in one’s car with a thermos full of tea, butter-laden paranthas and glove-compartment crammed with music,

As the capital city, Delhi is very well connected by rail and bus to its neighbouring states, and has a decent road network leading out of it for self-driving as well. So, you can choose from many ways of travelling to suit your trip – whether well planned or last minute, luxury or budget.

Train leaving

Agra Fort railway station

Sample chapter

4GettinG Around

has long been a favourite bonding exercise among family and friends in Delhi. National Highways (NH) connect the capital to every major city in north India, and with the growing availability of GPS, you don’t need to worry about getting lost. However, road journeys aren’t always predictable. While some of the expressways offer a smooth, ultra-fast ride, others contain more than their share of crawling trucks and crater-like potholes (especially post-monsoon). Leave early, stay calm and be sure you actually like driving, before setting out.

BusMany state tourism departments run excellent, high-end bus services from Delhi, while private operators add to the choice of timings and prices. The most comfortable options are Volvos and ‘deluxe AC’ buses, but if you’re willing to rough it out, then Delhi’s Inter-State Bus Terminals (at Kashmiri Gate, Sarai Kale Khan and Anand Vihar) are like candy shops for travellers (see Quick Facts box).

Quick FactsBUS

For booking and schedules visit:

•hrtc.gov.in–HimachalRoadTransportCorporation(HRTC)

•hptdc.nic.in–HimachalPradeshTourismDevelopmentCorporation(HPTDC)

•rtdc.in–RajasthanTourismDevelopmentCorporation(RTDC,%23383837,23386069,23381884)

•gmvnl.com–GarhwalMandalVikasNigam(%23350481,23364177)

•Privatebusbookingsitesincludewww.makemytrip.comandwww.travelyaari.com

Train

•indianrail.gov.in–trainschedules,pricesandticketavailability

•irctc.co.in–ticketbooking

The National Highways are a well-maintained network

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

5

Highlights• tip ‘n’ top: Catchgorgeousviewsofthelandscapefromhere.

• Darwan singh sanghralaya: WalkdownGarhwal’smemorylaneatthismuseum.

• Bhulla Lake:Havealovelyeveningwithaboatride.

Lansdowne

Why go?Few know of Lansdowne, which makes it an attractive hideaway. Visit this quaint hill station to ‘escape’ in the real sense. Surrounded by oak and pine trees, it off ers picturesque walks and trekking opportunities – and bad phone networks, which works out well! While this small cantonment settlement doesn’t have luxuries, it certainly has character and ambience.

Sample chapter

Quick FactsGetting There 250kmk 6hr NH24, NH58, NH119

•Route: ViaGhaziabad,Meerut,Bijnor,Najibabad,KotdwaraandDugadda.Toavoidthetraffic-congestedMeerutcity,taketheMeerutBypassleadingtoBijnor.

g 5hr 30min

•InterstatebusesrunfromDelhitoKotdwara.Fromhere,sharetaxis(jeepsusually)canbeeasilyfoundforthe41kmclimbtoGandhiChowkinLansdowne(`50perhead).

d 7hr + 1hr 30min drive Kotdwara

TheGarhwalExpress(14044)runsfromOldDelhi(departsat7.20am)toKotdwara(arrivesat2.20pm),whiletheMussoorieExpress(14041)leavesDelhi(SaraiRohilla)at9.30pmtoarriveinKotdwaraat6.05am.FromKotdwara,sharetaxi(asabove).

Top Village houses perched on slopesBottom Bhulla Lake, perfect for a picnic

Trip Planner

Best time to Visit

J F M A M J JA S O N D

gReat foR

AtModinagar,there'saJainShikanjiatVikasNagar,Kadrabad,andalsooppositetherailwaystation;inBijnor,trytheKwalityRestaurant.

6Lansdowne

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

7

Grand Dame of the HillsIn 1823, Captain Young built a house in Landour, Mussoorie, and a shooting box on Camel’s Back. Soon, other British officers and Indian royal families followed. By the 1920s, Mussoorie had become the most sought-after hill address in India. Even today, whispers of its flamboyant past echo in its heritage buildings and landmarks.

Central Mussoorie consists of two busy areas: Gandhi Chowk (also called Library Bazaar) and the livelier Kulri Bazaar and Picture Palace, linked by the (almost) traffic-free 2km Mall. Beyond Kulri Bazaar, a narrow road leads to the settlement of Landour. Up on Gun Hill, a canon used to be fired at precisely 4pm every day; the hill can be accessed by cable car from the Mall.

Today Mussoorie is a major holiday draw with cars, taxis and mules blocking the roads, vacationers taking walks along the Mall, and monkeys stealing fruit from the shops in the bazaar. But as dusk settles, the town is lit by pretty wrought-iron street lamps and the view of the valley twinkling with lights is a sight to behold. This hill station wakes up early and takes its time in winding down for the night.

Highlights1 gun Hill2 Camel’s Back road3 Jawahar aquarium4 Kempty falls5 everest House6 Happy Valley

Gandhi Chowk is

where you will find

maximum shops

Sample chapter

8 Mussoorie

1 guN HillFrom midway along the Mall, a cable car runs up to Gun Hill (8300ft), which, on a clear day, has views of several big peaks. A steep path also winds up to the viewpoint. The most popular time to go up is an hour or so before sunset. There’s a mini-carnival atmosphere in high season, with kids’ rides, food stalls, magic shops and honeymooners having their photos taken in Garhwali costumes.return ticket `55; 8am–9pm may–Jul & oct, 10am–6pm aug–sep & late Nov–apr

2 Camel’s BaCK roaDCamel’s Back Road is popular with walkers, as well as couples who find the 4km stretch attractive for its seclusion. There are some good mountain viewpoints along the way, and you can ride a horse (one way/return `200/250) along the trail, if you start from the Gandhi Chowk end. If you are looking for something more to bite on, there is the British Cemetery near the Valley Presbyterian Church. There is no sign post, and the dusty plot is recognised by stark white wooden crosses and headstones marking mounds of soil. Walk in and find graves going back to Mussoorie’s early years. Pioneers and settlers, soldiers and memsahibs all rest in peace in this little cemetery.

3 JawaHar aquarium This is a relatively new attraction and is popular with kids. It’s right above the cable-car station and is worth a try if you are trying to kill a half-hour or so. Not very informative and rather badly maintained, but small children do still enjoy it.`15; 10am–7.30pm daily

Value for Money: Sightseeing with GMVNgarhwal mandal Vikas Nigam (GMVN; Library bus stand; %013563–2631281; 10am–5pm Mon–Sat) organises a number of local bus tours, including to Kempty Falls (3hr, `70), Mussoorie Lake (full-day, `160) and Dhanaulti, Surkanda Devi Temple (p57). Tours can be booked at the GMVN office on the Lower Mall.

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

9

4 AccommodationHotel crown Plaza Hotel `%01376–226230, 9412025336; near New chakrata; d from `999; p Nothing to do with the big city’s Crowne Plaza, this is a great budget hotel with wonderful views from the rooms. The small reception area is housed in a large hall that doubles up as a dining room. Rooms are relatively clean for a no-frills hotel. It is located next to an outdoor dhaba. Note that there is no wi-fi or connectivity for Airtel phones. Only cash payments are accepted.

eco Hut Hotel `%01376–226234, 9456300003; close to the main bazaar; d from `1513; p Situated near the Apple Orchard Resort, this is a camp-type hotel that offers bamboo huts framed by spectacular mountain views. Tents will be introduced shortly. As of now Eco Hut offers a very authentic village-like experience with no TVs in the bedrooms and no net access. Guests eat together in the rather basic restaurant but there is also sporadic room service available. Run by the Dhanaulti Eco Tourism & Eco Development Committee, this is a small, unspoilt no-frills establishment.

Heritageapple orchard resort Hotel ``

%01376–226245, 226243; www.appleorchardresort.co.in; 1km from main market; d incl breakfast from `2500; p A little gem situated almost at the beginning of town in a large apple orchard. Owned by the royal family of Tehri-Garhwal, it has 12 comfortable rooms, furnished with comfy sofas, quirky lamps and plenty of blankets on the beds. All rooms have a view of the Himalayas, and the restaurant is housed inside a lovely glass house adorned with family photos and some hunting trophies. The owners themselves attend to guests, ensuring a warm and hospitable atmosphere. Cherry-picking season starts end of April and apple-picking end of July. Guests

The balcony restaurant at Apple Orchard Resort

Sample chapter

10Dhanaulti

Hill View North indian `%01376–226264, 9412141481; opp Hotel Drive inn Flanked by Mehfil restaurant, Hill View in comparison has awesome views from the dining area. It is also larger and has more comfortable chairs. The cuisine is north Indian and their parathas are fluffy and hot off the tawa. Don’t give Hill View a miss if you want atmosphere and a real feel of the mountains, while staring at the snowy ranges beyond.

2 Activitiestrekking%01376–226243, 9412052113; www.appleorchardresort.co.in; 1km from main market The most popular treks from Dhanaulti are through the dense alpine forests. Apple Orchard Resort organises a 20km trek from the resort to Nag Tibba, and charges `2000 per day along with a trained guide to accompany you. Travellers must bring their own trekking gear, however.

Horse ridingeco Parks, amer & Dhara, Dhanaulti main rd on the chamba–tehri rd There are horses for hire at the foot of the Eco Parks. The ponies are tame and friendly and are accompanied by a horseman. They can be hired at `200 per hour. Available year round, except during rainy season when the trails are muddy and slippery.

are welcome to join in. Ask for help in arranging treks to Nag Tibba. Credit/debit cards are accepted. Overnight accommodation for drivers is available at no extra cost. There's no connectivity for Airtel phones.

Hotel Drive inn Hotel ``

%9412320056; mussoorie-chamba Highway; www.bcchotels.com; d from `4000; ap A relatively plush hotel for the little town. Rooms are comfortably furnished with clean bathrooms. The restaurant Kadai Ketli serves mostly north Indian food but also has some sandwiches and soups. Be sure to carry cash as the hotel does not accept credit/debit cards.

5 Eatingshivam restaurant `Next to Hotel crown Plaza; 6am–10pm Standing on a raised stone platform right next to Hotel Crown Plaza, this is a small dhaba with a charming rooftop on which you can dine. Great views of Dhanaulti and the mountains beyond are a sure attraction. Serves both veg and non-veg dishes.

Mehfil North indian `%9410983102; opp Hotel Drive inn Right opposite Hotel Drive Inn, this little eatery serves both veg and non-veg food and has a decent variety of salads, paneer dishes and dals. A real treat is the fresh fish in October, as that’s when the Bengali tourists arrive in town.

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.