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Hair Styling Products - Laquers, Sprays - Gels, mousse

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Lacquers, Sprays

Quick – drying preparations which are sprayed onto the dry hair.

They vary from Normal to Hard to extra hard holding.

Are presented either as puffer spray or more commonly as an aerosol.

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Setting lotions, Gels, & mousse - These are applied to wet hair. The

hair is then molded to the required style and dried.

- Styling preparations consists of a film former, usually a synthetic polymer dissolved in a suitable volatile solvent, which evaporates leaving the polymer in the form of a thin sheath.

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The properties of the film

1- It must have good holding ability2- It should be flexible, so that the hair can be

combed easily without the film flaking.3- The preparation should dry rapidly, without

becoming tacky. (especially with lacquers and sprays).

4- The film must be clear, otherwise the hair will lack sheen.

5- It should also be resistant to changes in atmospheric conditions; a humid climate render the film tacky, and an arid climate produce a brittle or an opaque film.

6- The polymer should be easily washed out.

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Solvents

1- Water is not a good solvent for lacquers, it dries too slowly. It also presents formulation difficulties with aerosols.

Setting lotion and gels contain water.2- Ethanol – An excellent solvent. It almost odorless, and

evaporates easily. Its main disadvantages are cost and legal and legal restrictions.

3- Denatured ethanol – 39 parts of ethanol mixed with 1 part of isopropanol.( cheap)

4- Isopropanol – is a good solvent, cheap, volatile, completely miscible with water, and not legally controlled. It has a characteristic unpleasant odor, which is difficult to mask.

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Film formers

1- Shellac – The oldest film former, but it is still used in cheap hair sprays.

- It is a resinous substance prepared from a secretion which encrusts the bodies of a scale insect, Laccifer lacca.

- Shellac occurs in many grades, the best are light in color, bright and transparent, and in the form of scales.

- It has tenacious holding power.- Applied as a solution in ethanol, isoprapanol

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Film formers

Shellac disadvantages:- Variable composition associated with all

natural products.- Its yellow color makes it unsuitable for very

fair hair.- Its Insoluble in water and detergent

solutions, so that it is difficult to remove from the hair.

- The film produced is brittle.

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Film formers2- Polyvinylpyrolidone (PVP)

- Is a polymer which is soluble in water, ethanol, and most propellants.

- Substantive to hair (positive nitrogen)- It gives the hair a pleasant soft feel,

due to the moisture content of the film.- It is easily removed by shampooing

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Film formers2- Polyvinylpyrolidone (PVP)

The major disadvantage of PVP (I) is that it is very susceptible to atmospheric conditions, becoming dry and brittle, flaking off in arid climates, and becoming sticky in high humidity.

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Film formers3- PVP/ Polyvinyl Acetate (PVP/VA)

These consist of polymeric chains in which PVP and VA (II) are joined together in a random fashion.

It combines the substantivity and water solubility of PVP and VA’s resistance to atmospheric conditions.

PVP/ VA 60/40 for normal use PVP/ VA 70/30 for hard hold

situations

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Film formers4- Polystyrene/ Sodium Sulphonate

It is readily soluble in water, and is stable over a wide range, but insoluble in ethanol and isopropanol.

It is claimed to form a hard tough and clear film.

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Additives

Plasticizers – 10% of the film former are added to increase the flexibility of the film.

- Examples are phthalate diesters, castor oil, isopropylmyristate and polyethylene glycol.

Luster giving additives – when the hair is dry it lacks luster, and the effect is potentiated by the transparent film. Lanolin, castor oil and silicon oil are used for this purpose.

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Additives

Dispersants - In badly formulated preparations, individual droplets can remain static on the hair, dry, and form “hotspots”. Sometimes two hairs become stuck together by a hotspot.

- This can be overcome by adding a dispersant (Surfactants).

Antistatic agents - Polymer films, like other plastics, tend to accumulate static electricity, which in turn attracts dust. Cationic surfactants and diethanolamides are used as antistatics.

Perfumes -They may have a plasticizing effect on the film, rendering it too soft, or sticky. (perfume selection)