10W Retro Futuristic LED Lamp

8/13/2019 10W Retro Futuristic LED Lamp

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http://www.instructables.com/id/10W-Retro-Futuristic-LED-Lamp/

Intro: 10W Retro-Futuristic LED Lamp

LEDs could be very efficient and economical in long term use. A 10W LED lamp can replace a 100w incandescent lamp or a 30W compact fluorescent lamp. Despite anrelatively high initial cost, compared with other kinds of domestic lamps, your electric bill could drop significantly if you use it instead.

Here I will show to you how to make your own stylish 10W Retro-Futuristic LED Lamp, spending around US$ 25 bucks. Let's go!

Step 1: Materials

You will need:

1. One old burned compact fluorescent lamp, for the LED lamp socket (anyone serves);

2. Two grip flat connectors;

3. One 10W LED: www.satisled.com/10w-high-power-led-white-600800lm_p134.html - color of your choice;

4. Two little screws (search in your tech scrap);

5. One 10W LED driver: www.satistronics.com/constant-current-power-supply-for-10-w-power-led-100240vac-input_p2174.html

6. Thermal paste;

7. One old computer cooler (search in your tech scrap);

8. Heat shrink tubing;

9. 30 cm of wire (2 mm).
http://www.satistronics.com/constant-current-power-supply-for-10-w-power-led-100240vac-input_p2174.htmlhttp://www.satisled.com/10w-high-power-led-white-600800lm_p134.html


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Step 3: Disassembling the compact fluorescent lamp

Be careful to not break the CFC lamp. The glass could cut you and there are mercury inside the lamp.

Slowly try to open the base of the lamp, inserting the flat screwdriver and moving it up and down along the junction. These could damage the plastic a l ittle, but it's notcritical. You could after scrape the plastic with a knife or sand it to minimize the faults.

Carefully cut the two wires that join the circuit with the socket, without break the connection. Now cut about 0.5 cm of the insulation of the wire.


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Step 4: Welding the LED driver to the socket

Place two pieces of heat shrink tubing around the wires. It is important to isolate them and make a good finish.

Now solder the two wires to the AC wires of the LED driver and position and heat the heat shrink tubing for shrinking.


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Step 5: Cutting the base

Make a little V cut in the plastic base to pass the wires.


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Step 6: Boring the base

Make two little aligned opposite holes with the soldering iron, and scrap them with a knife.Now pass the 30 cm wire through them.


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Step 7: Bolting the LED

Place the LED in the center of the cooler.

Mark the holes with a pencil-case and make a punctuation in them.Drop a bit of oil and make the holes with the driller. Choose a drill a little smaller then the screws. They will make the screw when you tighten it in the soft metal of thecooler (cooper or aluminum).

Before you tighten them, apply some thermal paste below the LED.


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Step 8: Connecting the grip flat connectors

Cut a little dent in the side of the connector of the LED, to not interfere with the sliding of the grip flat connector.

Make some adjustment in the grip connector with the plier, if necessary. They have to stay tightly connected in the LED contacts.

Step 9: Linking the parts

Now, put the cooler above the driver and pass the wire inside the fins of the cooler.

Cut the wire leaving approximately 1 cm above the cooler.

Bend tightly the wire on the cooler, so that all stay firm.


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Step 10: Linking the LED

Grip the DC wires of the LED driver to the LED connectors. If one wire is short because the position, solder another piece on it.The standard polarity is positive (red) to the LED contact with a little semicircle mark.

However, the chinese have poor standards and I have found some LEDs that have inverted polarity. Don't worry, i f it does not turn on in three seconds, just switch thetwo wires that go to the LED contacts. The LED will not burn out.

Don't look directly to the LED! It's very, very bright and could damage your eyes. Be safe.


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Comments

50 comments Add Comment view all 95 comment

burn317 says: Jan 8, 2011. 12:11 PM REPI'm very amateur when it comes to electronics but still trying to self teach as much as I can. wouldn't you be able to use the current power supply in the cfbulb housing and run a series of leds off of that?its my understanding that the bulbs burn quicker than the components behind them.

Lindsley says: Jan 9, 2011. 4:42 AM REPThe CFL power supply can't be used for LEDs. They use high frequency AC to light the tube. You have to use current constant drivers for LEDs, voltageand current according with the LED specs. Or use resistors to limit the current, but they are inefficient.

Electronics Blurred says: Sep 9, 2010. 11:29 AM REPNice instructable !Nice design , too , but there's one thing , add a cover like those ceiling CFL's have , or else somebody's gonna go blind looking at it , for real .How about installing a fan too ? It might get hot , why not ;) especially if you encase the cooling fin in a case , i might be wrong , but you could correct me .

sreeci says: Nov 26, 2010. 10:43 AM REPI have done this project about 3 years ago, with 1 watt LED.The heat sink was from an old CPU cooler with integral fan.without the fan , junction temperature was recorded as 140 F.As soon as the fan kicked on, it dropped down to room temp, ie 70 F.Thanks for the info.Sree...

Lindsley says: Sep 9, 2010. 12:28 PM REPThanks.The diffuser have the function to soften the light, and it's ok. These LED is really very bright and there are many other options to dif fuse his light. I choosea very cheap.The fan is not necessary, if the cooler is exposed. It reaches 53 Celsius, and the LED supports it. Don't close this thing with a case or it will fry. In thiscase, the fan is mandatory.

ac-dc says: Sep 23, 2010. 7:39 AM REPYour conclusion is premature. It is not the temperature of the heatsink that matters, it is the temperature of the LED die. Similiarly you don't know thetemperature of a car engine by measuring the radiator temperature.

Further, I cannot recommend using the generic power supply l inked, it appears to not be UL listed and may be unsafe. I would be glad to be wrongthough, if you will provide the CE and FCC certificates for i t that are implied by the stamps on its label and a proof that the components are the sameas submitted for the certification.

Further, mounting the power supply above the heatsink will heat it up, I would be worried about it causing a fire.

rattyrain says: Sep 27, 2010. 6:36 AM REPI think people need to stop judging others' intelligence based on how well they speak English; it doesn't work too well. I judge intelligence basedon whether or not one has a profile picture.

gnawlej says: Sep 23, 2010. 10:44 AM(removed by author or community request)
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sreeci says: Nov 26, 2010. 10:48 AM REPEGO issue !

gnawlej says: Dec 1, 2010. 6:15 PM REPThen allow me this: I apologize and didn't mean to troll.

Lindsley says: Sep 23, 2010. 9:46 AM REPWell, I'm using five of these LED lamps in my home without any problems. The circuit inside the CFL heats a lot also (in a closed case), and don'tburn out. The temperature of the air around the LED could be up to 80 degree Celsius, so 53 degree in the cooler is OK.

drbill says: Oct 29, 2010. 4:06 PM REPJust ordered the parts for the light. Wish there was something like this for Hot Water Heaters in apartments. Not allowed to modify the heater at all oranything else for that matter. Very good project.

Thank you Instructables for the spell checker.........

frankmiao says: Oct 26, 2010. 10:57 PM REPHi Lindsley, I run into this post by accident. I am Frank from SatiLED company. I would l ike say Thanks on behalf of all our company. My question is if wecan quote this article on our blog. And as a reward, we would like to send you one 10W power LED for free. Please contact me via [email protected] toleave your registered email on our website.

Best regards

Lindsley says: Oct 27, 2010. 2:51 AM REPDear Frank,Thank you for your interest in my article. Of course that you can quote it in your blog. I'm working in other projects with your LEDs and I will send the linkto you when they are finished.Thanks for the 10w LED too!

Airazz says: Oct 9, 2010. 12:07 PM REPWould this one http://www.satistronics.com/10w-led-driver-ac85v265v-for-high-power-led-light-lamp_p2619.html work? It's cheaper.

Lindsley says: Oct 10, 2010. 3:29 PM REPYes. It is more cheaper because don't have the case or the wires, but i t works well.

switch62 says: Sep 24, 2010. 11:27 AM REPnice instructable. I like the use of the soda bottle as a diffuser,

Lindsley says: Sep 24, 2010. 5:11 PM REPThank you. I'm working in another recycled diffusers.

Johenix says: Sep 26, 2010. 10:27 PM REPSome vitamins and some mini "energy drinks" come in small WHITE PETE bottles. They seem to have potential as omni-directional difusers.

Lindsley says: Sep 27, 2010. 11:38 AM REPYes, they don't need the sand step, and they are more homogeneous. But they are also small.

GENERALCHAOS says: Sep 23, 2010. 2:29 PM REPcan u use coollaboratory >>>> http:/ /www.coollaboratory.com/en/

Lindsley says: Sep 23, 2010. 6:03 PM REPAny good thermal paste could be used. These are very efficient, so the LED will be more cool, but the normal is OK.
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GENERALCHAOS says: Sep 23, 2010. 6:14 PM REPsweet!!!

nerys says: Sep 23, 2010. 10:21 AM REPsuggestions on other drivers? this one is rated for 900mah (warm white) but the driver is rated for 1000mah. I would like to run it underspec say 800mah.

IF the specs are true the lumens for this LED are actually pretty good as its getting 60 to 90 lumens per watt. 60 is pretty bad but if you get a few at 90 thatspretty good actually.

The warm CFL I have in my hands is 900lumens for 13 watts. or 69 lumens per watt so unless I get a few sucky 600lumen LED's these are superior to youraverage CFL.

Its superior again because the light is directional. ALL the 900 lumens go in the same direction instead of "all around" like the CFL. so if your usage is set upto take advantage of that its that much more efficient than the CFL.

I have about half the house converted to LED. This might let me convert the rest so I just might build one of these and see what happens.

yes these can get 50k hours if you under burn them a little bit. even 40k hours would mean around 40 years of usage.

Lindsley says: Sep 23, 2010. 10:32 AM REPThis driver is current constant, it will deliver only the current that your LED requires, and not more, even if it rated for more. Your comment about thedirection of the light is very important. This LED sprays the light in a cone of 120 degrees, concentrating then on it.

nerys says: Sep 23, 2010. 12:25 PM REPYes current constant at 1000mah or 100mah more than the warm white is supposed to get. I want to under drive it - lower power and longer life. Itdelivers the current its designed to deliver.

how would it "know" otherwise?

another trick with LED's is multiple fixtures all crossing each other. Eliminates the hash shadows.

Lindsley says: Sep 23, 2010. 2:24 PM REPI have measured the voltage and current in the circuit for the cool and warm white LED:10W Cool and Warm White: 9.73 V x 0.94 A (9.15W)

Lindsley says: Sep 23, 2010. 1:14 PM REPYou can see many other LED drivers here .

Lindsley says: Sep 23, 2010. 1:07 PM(removed by author or community request)

nerys says: Sep 23, 2010. 7:44 PM REPahh maybe these work differently but its you that does not understand how this works.

LED's are Current Hungry. the whole REASON you need to use "fixed current" power supplies with an LED is because as it gets HOT (andthey DO get hot 80% of the power comes out as heat) they increase in resistance. as the resistance increases they draw MORE CURRENTwhich makes them hotter which makes them draw MORE current which makes them hotter.

you get the idea. eventually you get a run away effect and they DIE as they "melt down"

this is the whole reason you have to RESTRICT the current to the LED and this is the whole reason so many Mass Produced LED bulbs DIEfar far before they need to (over driven to make them brighter)

so running a 900mah LED at 1000mah won't make it blow up but IT WILL shorten its lifespan.

You plug a 100mah LED into a 1000mah power supply that LED IS DEAD and FAST.

Running it (the 900mah led) at 800mah will LENGTHEN its lifespan while only losing a tiny bit of lumens.unless "something else" in the loop is restricting the current somehow if you plug a 900mah led into a 1000mah power supply IT WILLEVENTUALLY DRAW 1000mah from that power supply especially in the summer or unless you really go crazy on the cooling.

its LED 101.

9.15watt is nice. How long was it running and how hot was it when you measured that? how hot did the actual emit ter get? Lumens from that?

I want LED for the low cost low power and MOST IMPORTANT to me. LONG TIME. I would rather have a dimmer product where I use TWOto get more lumens and have it outlive me than have a brighter product that dies in 10 years.
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josephlebold says: Sep 24, 2010. 9:23 PM REPmore resistance = less current. less current = less heat....as an led overheats it's junction allows more current through which causes it to explode or melt down.

cdousley says: Sep 28, 2010. 7:25 PM REP josephlebold the resistance is inside the led so it does not decrease current inside the led it decrease current as itmove through the resisted energy is then turned to heat and the more electricity resisted the more energy turns to heat

I hope i helped a little bit

josephlebold says: Sep 29, 2010. 12:35 AM REP

hmm so I would ask this question. what makes a resistor different?

why does a lower rated resistor get hot faster than a high rated resistor when connected to a power source? ofcourse the resistor with less resistance draws more current. how is an LED different?

nerys says:but not if the resistance increases HEAT which increased resistance and increases power demand.

now incandescent light bulbs have an increased resistance once the tungsten filament is heated up but there is norunaway overheating because of it because increased resistance = reduced current.

lindsley and switch62 seem to correspond to what I thought I knew about leds.

skrubol says: Sep 29, 2010. 5:15 PM REPV=IR, so if V is constant, as R increases, I must decrease to satisfy the equation. Also, be careful of yourterminology with resistors. The value of a resistor is in ohms (resistance.) It also has tolerance in % and power

rating in watts. A resistor with a higher power rating will get hot more slowly than a similarly rated resistor with alower power rating, simply because it's bigger, and therefore has more thermal mass and surface area to shedthat heat. Some high-power resistors come in small packages, but must be heatsinked.

LED's are not resistors. As they heat up, their current increases for a fixed voltage (similar to resistance goingdown.) This is how most semiconductors work. Normal conductors such as metals behave the opposite, as theyheat up their resistance increases. Ceramic resistors resistance usually drops a very small amount as theirtemperature increases. The compounds used in resistors is chosen very carefully to minimize changes in theirresistance due to temperature.

josephlebold says: Sep 30, 2010. 6:34 PM REPThank youThat was a perfect explanation. It corresponds Exactly to what I had in mind.nerys please read and understand the truth in his explanation.

nerys says: Sep 30, 2010. 9:24 PM REPThere is nothing really for me to read at least not as you intended.he is saying what I said but he is using the correct terminology : -)

end result is the same

"As they heat up, their current increases for a fixed voltage"

as current increases they heat up as they heat up current increases as current increases they heat up.

We are saying the same thing I was just using the wrong words.

Point stands. if you don't properly cool and properly control the current to an LED it will get hot and as itgets hot it draws MORE CURRENT which makes it get hotter etc.. etc.. till it nukes itself.

I am sorry I used the wrong words - I got them from someone else without fully understanding them. I just understood the "process" without having the correct words to describe the process I knew.

josephlebold says: Oct 2, 2010. 8:06 PM REPgood good. I understand you now. :)

cdousley says: Oct 2, 2010. 5:29 PM REPAnd it really smells when an led nukes itself too

josephlebold says: Oct 2, 2010. 8:08 PM REPI read somewhere that laser diodes can emit arsenic gas when they are destroyed.
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cdousley says: Oct 3, 2010. 4:06 PM REParsenic_that_sounds_bad!__my_space_bar_is_broke

skrubol says: Sep 23, 2010. 1:42 PM REPLindsley, I think you need to read up on what constant current and constant voltage mean.A 1000mA CC driver [should] deliver 1000mA as long as it's within operating spec (output i s between it's min and max voltage.) Most Chinesedrivers are overrated, so a 1000mA driver really probably puts out 800-900mA, but it does not 'sense' what current the LED needs. It adjuststhe voltage to what the LED needs, as LED's have negative thermal coefficients (if given constant voltage, their current draw will increase asthey heat up, often causing thermal runaway.)

If you hook up a 350mW LED to a 1000mW driver it wil l pop within seconds.

Kasm279 says: Sep 23, 2010. 2:55 PM REPYou have it backwards, its a constant voltage and the LED only sucks the current (mAh) that it needs...

nerys says: Sep 23, 2010. 7:46 PM REPNo you have it completely wrong.

LED's will suck AS MUCH CURRENT AS THEY CAN till they melt.

and they have NO effect on voltage besides the normal effect any device has.

Enough volts and it works. Not enough and it dies too much and it dies.

as they get hotter they draw MORE CURRENT which is why you need to use a FIXED CURRENT power supply to STOP the meltdown from happening.

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