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Volume 32. No 19.
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ON CAMPUS P 4-5
FOOD & BEVERAGE P 8-9
BACK PAGE P 12CENTER SPREAD P 6-7
Volume 32, No.19
Culinary Culture P 3
Until a few months ago, the gold standard at The Culinary Institute of America was a room described by the New York Times in July as a “fusty, classically inspired, formal French dining room.” The Times’’ examination of the venerable Escoffier restaurant was brought on by a drastic transformation currently taking place on the west side of Roth Hall. That article at the beginning of July gave most students, staff, and CIA groupies their first glances at what’s been rumored for years: the Bocuse Restaurant.
Slated to open in 2013, the Institute’s newest restaurant showpiece was designed by the same man who helps some of our most beloved restauranteurs make invaluable impressions on their guests every time the front door opens. Adam Tihany has been a force in the hospitality industry since the beginning of his career. With interior design and architecture credits at some of the world’s most well regarded dining rooms (Daniel, Aureole, Bar Bouchon in LA, La Fonda del Sol, just to name a few) Tihany was tapped by the CIA to take on the college’s most recent makeover. He was named Art Director by the Institute in July and will
oversee, among other things, the overall image of the college’s Hyde Park campus.
La Papillote recently got a chance to speak with Mr. Tihany after a lecture he gave to update students on Bocuse Restaurant.
“I don’t think anybody really ever wanted to do something contemporary,” Tihany proclaimed about the restaurants on the Hyde Park Campus. “[We] agreed that [we were] looking for a contemporary French brasserie that can be read in many ways.” The overhaul of E-Room was generally regarded as controversial, at best, by students until Tihany’s renderings were
released. “My interest was to create a stage for students to actually experience a modern restaurant.”
A “stage” may be the best way to describe the new Bocuse restaurant. Tihany has made it a key point to open up the space. He described the new space as “airy and soft” rather than the less delicate, more masculine and vernacular E-Room. The design team was focused on creating a space that lets student service staff experience what Tihany calls “a different way of moving in a dining
room.” One of Mr. Tihany’s signatures is service
stations in the middle of the dining room. That has not been lost on Bocuse. He wants the dining experience to reflect that of restaurants in major cities. “When you are in a contemporary room you tend to behave differently, on edge. That’s sort of the philosophical consideration behind [the design].”
The dining room will be completely different when it opens but it will be a space Escoffier would be proud of. “We wanted to keep it simple and elegant,” Mr. Tihany proudly remarked, “ [We] used natural materials like leather, wood, and glass.” He made a point to keep a few very French details as an homage to the new restaurant’s namesake. “The wall sconces are all toques... that was not enough. They are made
of porcelain from Limoges.” He took a look at his Italian design associate after he said that and asked if they ever got the porcelain from Limoges.
“Well, at least we hope it’s coming from Limoges.” Mr. Tihany is a classically charming man with
enough experience under his belt to exude confidence. He is worldly and focused. He lives in the Hudson Valley himself so these surroundings are familiar. Even though he’s been all over the world and designed restaurants and hotels from New York to South Africa to Singapore, Roth Hall still holds significance in the design of Bocuse restaurant. “The new facility is
rooted in the history of the building and what it was. I don’t think contemporary living and this traditional architecture can’t coexist. The restaurants will evolve. They will evolve in the same way the end product and the students here evolve.” Mr. Tihany is hopeful for the future of the industry and confident that the Institute
is still on the cutting edge. “Evolution and progress has its place here. You can’t just stick your head in the sand and say this is all we can do here. [The CIA] is progressive.”
BY: Jake Hauss, AOS Baking & Pastry, Copy Editor
Mr. Adam TihanyPhotography: Bill Huges
A rendering at the new Bocuse Restaurant at CIAPhoto: metropolismag.com
The man himself, Paul BocusePhoto: Thepennyuniversity.blogspot
2LA PAPILLOTE
COMPACTLa Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of Amer-ica since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrong-doing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICYAs a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
Chef Freddy BrashDan CastroEric Jenkins Shelly LovelandJeff LevinStephanie KirklandGiulianna GalianoBianca SwanepoleMatthew GrunwaldSamantha LindmeierJohn Schlichting
Chris RumleyAubrey KingJake HaussJeremy SalamonChris RumleyYosef Sahler
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jocelynn M. Neri
LAYOUT EDITOR Sydney Estrada
ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug
EDITORIAL POLICY La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability.
Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Jocelynn M. Neri, Editor-In-Chief at [email protected] POLICY Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to [email protected] with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
CONTRIBUTORS
November 9, 2012
From the Editor’s Desk
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Sydney Estrada(Layout Editor)
Dan Castro (Photographer)
I tend to become very nostalgic this time of year. It is a time of holiday celebration and turkey feasting. I am a sucker for a heart-warming mug of Mexican hot chocolate with a huge dollop of fluff or a slice of my mother’s pecan pie. She has been developing her recipe to be sans gluten, and her latest crust recipe is to die for and full of heart healthy fats. In my family this is a time where all gather around one particular thing: food.
For this issue, I decided to get the ball rolling with Thanksgiving. Here, you will find a cornucopia of recipes and tales about changing up tradition. Who says turkey has to be boring? Check out Jeremy’s story of his turkey frying escapades last year. As well, Samantha has some interesting recipes for what to do with all those leftovers!
With all this excitement around food, I realize that you are all probably jonesing for a hearty meal now. Bianca has all the details on what to try, before you split for break! Rumor has it Caterina has a new Alforno MIT and she’s shaking things up on the menu. Have you seen her ricotta and roasted grape pizza? Check it out today!
The winter chill seems to be lingering now, and with the scent of baking spices in the air I have been cooping myself up a bit. As I am surely not the only one with this issue, I advise you check out Aubrey’s blurb on winter working out. She has some helpful tips that will help you put down that third slice of pie and pick up that P90x video before you get stuck in a rut.
I hope you all make your way to your families safely this Thanksgiving. For those of you that won’t be departing campus, do not feel confined to your dorms! CIA will be hosting a wonderful Thanksgiving dinner. All they ask of you is a food or monetary donation, if you can. Be sure to RSVP via the Student Web Portal by November 13th!
On an unrelated note, I would like to inform you all that La Papillote is currently holding a Survey. I ask of you to please visit the La Papillote Facebook page, or check the Scoop, for the link. Please take it today! It will only take a few minutes of your time and will be a great help to our team.
With love & fire,
Alicia Yandell(Copy Editor)
Jake Hauss (Copy Editor)
3November 9, 2012
In the last issue, I wrote about flavor in a professional manner. It is important to realize the difference of flavor on a more personal note.
As you may know, my wife, Chuan, is Chinese and is from Beijing; the capital. When we first got to know each other, it was quite common for her or her parents to greet me not by saying hello, but by asking if I had eaten yet.
For example, if it was two in the afternoon she would ask me what I had for lunch at eleven in the morning and whether or not I ate breakfast. We don’t express ourselves like that usually in American culture, but it shows how the Chinese culture is all about food.
A major reason why I do feel that I am a good cook and understand flavor is due to my relationship with Chuan for the twenty years we have been together. When I first started cooking dishes for Chuan, they often lacked flavor to her palate and were much too heavy for her. I started watching her Mom cook. She uses light aromatics and a lot of
really tasty vegetables.Of course in our house we stir fry a lot. That is
a base for Chinese cuisine but nothing like you see here. Stir fried celery—a lot of it-- with a little hint of pork, garlic, ginger, and scallion. Purple eggplant with cilantro braised with rice vinegar and a good balance of sweetness. We never go a week without that famous five layer pork belly cooked with star anise. Probably making you hungry right?
Oh and not to mention that we love making stir fried silken tofu. Many Chinese families have a ritual of dumpling Sunday when everyone pitches in; they always make fun of my dumpling shapes. Interestingly, when it’s your birthday one of the dishes has to be noodles to signify long life.
I started to incorporate these flavors to my method of cooking and here are my wife’s favorites:
Star Anise Braised Tile Fish: I take Tile Fish 1. and coat it with corn starch, add an egg to make a batter, then I stir fry the fish, add lots
of ginger and julienned scallion and finish with Chinese rice wine, rice vinegar, soy and sugar.Anything with mushrooms Chuan loves so 2. I take shitake, white mushrooms, and some oyster mushrooms, stir fry them with garlic, ginger and scallion and finish with soy, oyster sauce, sesame oil, and a little sugar.Batter Stir Fried Chicken Thighs: batter the 3. chicken the same way as the Tile Fish then finish with onions, peppers, ginger, garlic, scallions, broccoli and an orange soy glaze.
These are simple dishes but that is how we eat at home. For a green vegetable stir fry, cook baby bok choy with lots of garlic and let the moisture content in the bok choy steam it.
One of the gifts of this business is that we will always be able to keep our families’ tummies happy. Bon Appetite Chefs.
BY: Chef Freddy Brash, Culinary Arts Instructor
Two recent cookbook releases have created quite a stir for fans of the sweet and buttery. The Bouchon Bakery Cookbook was created by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel of the French Laundry and Per Se. The Elements of Dessert, by the Culinary Institute of America’s own Apple Pie Bakery Chef Instructor, Francisco Migoya, was also recently released. The two cookbooks vary wildly, despite their similarities with the glossy covers and a larger size that make them as good of a centerpiece for a coffee table, but more importantly, they are inspiring students and chefs nationwide.
The Bouchon Bakery Cookbook is focused on both pastries and breads. The theme of the book plays off of the ideas of memory and nostalgia of childhood, and Americana mixed with classic French technique that has been an important part of all of Thomas Keller’s kitchens. Many modern versions of classic recipes that you remember from childhood are what make this book stand out. This theme is reflected on the cover which displays the characteristic combination of milk and cookies, featuring the iconic 1950’s soda counter striped straw with their elevated version of the Oreo. The book connects its recipes through vignettes of the day-to-day work in the bakeries with script assistance from Michael Ruhlman.
These recipes are made for a home kitchen
utilizing the equipment that your mom might have in her house. The book is also filled with huge photos of both the finished product and full pages of photos of techniques accompanying recipes.
The Elements of Dessert, however, contrasts because it will not hold your hand with pictures of technique. The recipes require elaborate equipment that your mom’s kitchen will most likely not have. This cookbook is designed for the professional chef that wants to see new and innovative ideas in a food service setting. From passed desserts and huge platters, to more traditional plated ideas, this book is built of elements that can be combined to make something infinitely complex or serve as inspiration for your own desserts, or elements of desserts. For the author, Chef Francisco Migoya, that kind of inspiration comes from anywhere, “there’s nothing new, there is just new ways of seeing things… It can be a great ingredient or a painting. You just never know what will trigger an idea.”
This book is a way for Chef Migoya to share the output of his inspiration. Migoya also has a frequently updated blog where he posts pictures
of new creations that he develops at the Apple Pie Bakery, as well as his own experiments. The blog is a part of his work, as he says, “The goal is to share, always to share and give information. If you keep it all to yourself, what good can come from that?”
For any students inspired to write their own cookbook and wondering how they can start out, the author of The Elements of Dessert had this advice, “Write something no one else had thought to write. We don’t need another book about cupcakes… I always wanted to have a good book about frozen desserts (not just ice cream), and there’s a couple but they are not comprehensive. They are not in English and they aren’t very thorough. So I just wrote it.” Even if you do not have any aspirations to have your book in the bookstore in Roth Hall, Chef has words of inspiration for you as well, “That which will ensure your success is something you either have or you don’t, and that is integrity. Doing the right thing no matter what is also part of that integrity. When you think the world is against you, you are wrong. You are the master of your destiny.”
If Chef Migoya’s advice feels helpful, you can find his most recent book, as well as his two previous works, in the school bookstore. If you want to spend a couple of hours looking at fantastic desserts check out his blog at www.thequenelle.com
BY: John Schlichting, AOS Culinary
Elements od Dessert is on store shelves now!Photo: amazon.com
Chef Migoya’s Passion Fruit Curd with ChocolatePhoto: facebook.com/chef-francisco-migoya
4LA PAPILLOTE
BY: Jeff Levin, Communications Manager
BY: Matthew Grunwald, AOS Culinary
Culinary Institute of America (CIA) junior Jackie DeGrandpre won the individual title and was the first of three runners from the CIA among the top five finishers, leading the Steels to the Hudson Valley Women's Athletic Conference (HVWAC) cross country championship on Sunday, October 21, 2012. The victory marks the third consecutive conference crown for the CIA women's cross country team.
DeGrandpre (Merrimack, NH) has now won the conference championship race each of her three years at the CIA. This year, she completed 5k course at Bard College in Annandale, NY in 20:44, 19 seconds ahead of her closest challenger. She was followed by senior Brittany Ronan (Bridgewater, CT) in third place and sophomore Shannon Haggerty (Upper Dublin, PA) in fifth place for the Steels. All five CIA runners finished in the top 23 as the Steels handily beat runner-up Pratt Institute in the team standings.
On the men's side, the CIA had its best-ever finish in the Hudson Valley Men's Athletic Conference (HVMAC). The Steels took second place in the 8k championship race at Bard, with senior James Avenoso (Hershey, PA) finishing third overall and junior Dylan Rutherford (West Cape May, NJ) and sophomore Michael Stafford (Baldwinsville, NY) also placing in the top 10, at 9th and 10th place respectively. The Steels had six of the first 18 finishers and placed just behind Yeshiva University in the team standings.
The success of both the women's and men's teams in 2012 gave CIA head coach Lowell Fisher a sweep of Coach of the Year honors. This is the fourth straight year that Fisher has earned the top coach award in the HVWAC, and it's his first award in the HVMAC.
Photo Captions:
Photo 1: The 2012 CIA women's cross country team won the Hudson Valley Women's Athletic Conference championship for the third consecutive year on October 21. (Photo credit: HVWAC/Anthony Macapugay)
Photo 2: CIA junior Jackie DeGrandpre nears the finish line at the Hudson Valley Women's Athletic Conference championship race in Annandale, NY on October 21, 2012. DeGrandpre won her third HVWAC individual cross country title in three years of running for the Steels. (Photo credit: HVWAC/Anthony Macapugay)
This year, I was chosen to represent the Culinary Institute of America in the, “10th annual San Pellegrino Almost Famous Chef Competition.” The primary reason the competition is held is to give up-and-coming chefs the opportunity to show their faces in the culinary industry and start to develop some practical credibility. The competition starts with a preliminary round where competitors must develop an original recipe and compose that dish eight times for a selected panel of judges. This preliminary competition will be held in NYC on February 21, 2013. Once a competitor qualifies in this round, they will be flown to the CIA campus in Napa Valley.
The final competition consists of two rounds. First, is a mystery basket round where students will have a two hour block of time to prep, execute and plate an entrée from the items found in the basket. To prepare for this, I have been watching Chopped quite a bit. The second part of the finals involves replicating the dish that you served to the eight judges in the qualifying round, however, this time for a panel of esteemed judges consisting of: Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin, Luciano Pellifrini and Piero Selvaggio of Valentino, Tony Mantuano of Spiaggia, as well as editors for national publications such as Bon Appétit, New York Times, Food and Wine, and Saveur Magazine. Also, I will be executing the dish for 400 distinguished guests at the event. To say the least, I am very excited!
I am going to be entering an Asian inspired concept. On the left of a small, rectangular plate will be a Vietnamese lemon soup that is served in a shot glass. Resting on top of the shot of soup is
a shitake mushroom, lemongrass, and cloud ear fungus stuffed shishito pepper that has been dipped into tempura batter and fried until super crispy, very similarly served the way tapas would be served in Spain. To the left of those components will rest a jumbo shrimp that has been marinated in tons of aromatics like ginger and garlic, as well as a few acidic components like lemon juice and sambal chili.
The shrimp is then going to be grilled and sit tail up on top of a Japanese pancake otherwise known as okonomiyaki. The okonomiyaki will be filled with chopped shrimp, udon noodles, and pork lardons
and topped with a sweet and savory reduced soy glaze. To the very right of the plate I am going to place a “candied diver scallop.” Think about the textures that you experience when eating crème brûlée: the crunchy thin layer of crystallized, burnt sugar and the luscious creaminess that you achieve in the custard. I am going for the same textures in the scallop. The top layer of the diver scallop will be crystallized with ingredients like hoisin, brown sugar and mae ploy. Sitting daintily on top of the scallops will be a crown of pickled orange rind that has been finely julienned as well as fried lechuga del mar (lettuce of the sea). The dish will be dynamic, bold, acidic, luscious, savory, sweet, and slightly bitter. I will be “bringin’ it,” in the words of Professor Gaby because this combination will be delicious.
This competition is happening at the perfect time this March because that is when I will start working for Food Network
in Chelsea, New York. Winning first place in the competition would mean a $22,000 check in my pocket and rent for a cool loft in the city. Also, as a hopeful food writer for the New York Times, perhaps one of the editors at the event will offer me a freelance job. Success is gauged on the visualization of grandeur in each individual and obtaining your dream is very possible.
ON CAMPUS5
November 9, 2012
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Have you ever compared coffee to wine? The mug as your glass and the Dark Roast as your fine Cabernet Sauvignon. Have you ever considered the mouth feel of coffee, the body, the texture on your palate? It’s hard to imagine that your “Vanilla Soy Latte, hold the foam”, could be so complex. When all things are considered, coffee can be the caffeinated wine.
That’s what the Fine Grind Society at CIA (FGS) is out to explore. FGS promotes the awareness of good coffee. As the President of the club, my mission is to define coffee as the “approachable wine, all natural energy drink and foundation of the culinary industry; forging the caffeinated (and decaffeinated) alliance of coffee lovers near and far.
Last Wednesday FGS was fortunate enough to
host Stumptown Coffee Roasters as their first guest speaker. The company was started by “a small group of tattooed indy rockers” in Portland,Oregon. Based in the Pacific Northwest, Stumptown expanded up and down the East coast, placing themselves in some of the country’s most notable dining establishments to further their business. Some of the company’s notable clientele includes: Danny Meyer, Andrew Carmellini, Tom Colicchio, and April Bloomfield.
So, what makes Stumptown’s coffee in such high demand? It is their belief that coffee is just as
involved as wine. From the soil it’s grown in to the individually hand packaged bags, Stumptown is raising the bar of Java standards. It only seemed appropriate that I get in touch with them ASAP. When I spoke with Stumptown’s Director of Operations for NYC, John Feldman, I was excited to learn that he was in fact a ’05 CIA alumnus. Coming back “home” was already a priority to him and this was the perfect excuse.
To the lecture, John
brought with him Stumptown’s Nicholas Kirby, Drew Cattlin and a considerable amount of coffee and brewing equipment. Along with their unique hospitality the guys put out Stumptown postcards that read “Good Luck and Best Wishes” and brewed fresh french press coffee for the tired students. Drew, who is to say the least, a passionate expert, explained to me that coffee is an experience that puts the customer first.
With a great turnout of students and plenty of coffee mugs in hand, our guest speakers began with a picture of wild coffee trees that were lush with branches with small red fruit. From there we embarked on a journey from “farm-to-cup.” They explained that Stumptown is a Direct Trade company, meaning that they personally meet with their famers face-to-face two weeks out of each month. You can find they’re beans on selected farms in Kenya, Ethiopia, and Guatemala.
The hand-picked, high quality Arabica coffee is transported through a cycle of washings and drying without the use of mechanized production. The beans are then roasted at their Red Hook, Brooklyn facility in a vintage 1950 German made Probats. Each bag is hand packaged with a tag identifying its location of origin. They are then shipped not only to their restaurant customers but to Stumptown’s Cafes, one of which can be found in the Ace Hotel located in Manhattan. When tasting, you should be able to experience fruit like qualities that are clean and mild in acidity. Most importantly, the folks at Stumptown want the coffee to feature terroir; the essence from the soil and environment from which it was harvested.
Fortunately, we got to experience their “Hair Bender” espresso blend. Its location of harvest comes from Latin America, East Africa and Indonesia. Flavors of milk chocolate, caramel,
jasmine, Meyer lemon, apricot and pineapple are dominant in this blend. That’s before you even add the flavored creamers and syrups.
Stumptown left us feeling excited and curious (not to mention caffeinated) about the evolution and future of coffee. FGS will be looking forward to their return and possible involvement with our very first coffee house.
*For more information on FGS please visit Facebook.com/TheFineGrindSociety
*For more information on Stumptown Coffee Roasters please visit Stumptowncoffee.com
BY: Jeremy Salamon, AOS Culinary
Stumptown’s Finest lecturing on brewing.
Students during the coffee cupping & discussionAll Photos: Jeremy Salamon
Postcards given to students
LA PAPILLOTECENTER SPREAD6
BY: Aubrey King, BPS Culinary, italktofood.com
Cooking, eating, eating some more, and then passing out wherever one may fall is the tradition of Thanksgiving. For the American majority, we know the whole Thanksgiving history play-by-play. Some of you may have even been in said play during the second grade as well. It is one of the great American holidays, and, for a very long time, I thought it was
strictly American. What about our vast international student body? What is expected of them during this five-day break? Many of them actually have a similar holiday celebrated in their faraway hometown.
Canada celebrates Thanksgiving. There has often been some small back and forth debate on who celebrated it first, the United States or Canada? Americans celebrate this holiday to remember the Pilgrims coming to the new world, but Canadians celebrate it to show appreciation for a good harvest.
I hunted down my favorite Canadian of all, Emma Goertzen, and asked her about her Thanksgiving, “I didn’t celebrate it this year, although I did make some eggnog in celebration of fall. We roast turkey with stuffing, make mashed sweet potatoes, turnips and potatoes, and load on lots of gravy. My mom usually makes some sort of pie (typically pumpkin.) So it is very similar to the US… interesting side note: it is a statutory holiday in all provinces but the Maritimes (PEI, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Newfoundland)
where it’s optional.”In Korea, they celebrate Chuseok. This is a three-
day long festival and, like many other holidays, it is held during the Autumn Equinox. Fall is the season of great harvests of fresh vegetables and fruits. The ancient ancestors celebrated Chuseok and it is a time for families to get together. Locals celebrating
customarily eat “Songpyeon.” This is half-moon shaped treat stuffed with sesame seeds and sugar, sweet beans or chestnut filling.
Not all Koreans celebrate this holiday. My classmate, Eunhye Jasmine Hong, said she did not celebrate Chuseok when I asked, nor would she be celebrating Thanksgiving.
One of our recent graduates, Kevin Abella, was born and raised in the Phillippines. The closest thing to Thanksgiving that he celebrates is “Flores de Mayo” (Flowers of May), also known as “Flores de Maria” (Flowers of Mary). He explained it as,
“A month long celebration in May. Traditionally, this celebration began
because May is a very rainy month and all the flowers bloom almost all at once. Also, it’s to thank God for a good harvest season. We hold flower festivals all over the country [even in] small villages like Angono, my home town. These festivals get really elaborate with presentation and each place picks young women to be the center of the parades (representing young flowers), they are sometimes dressed in traditional Filipino clothing. As for the food, it’s all traditional celebratory Filipino, Pancit… [and] Sisig. There is a lot of drinking, music, and house parties. What we used to do in my neighborhood was [hold] a block party in one street and change the block the following day. I don’t think I’ll be celebrating Thanksgiving this year because I’ll be working, nature of the job and I accept it.”Some Thanksgiving Facts:
-91% of Americans eat turkey on Thanksgiving.The first TV dinner was Thanksgiving leftovers. A representative at Swanson seriously overestimated
the amount of turkey that would be eaten on thanksgiving. With 260 tons of bird to get rid of, an assembly line was created, where women were fitting mini-feasts of turkey, corn-bread dressing, peas and sweet potatoes into containers to freeze.
-Originally, our holiday was intended to be a fast. The devout settlers in the Plymouth Rock area saw abstaining from food and prayer as “giving thanks.” During their three day celebration, however, the Wampanoag Indians, who were joining in, contributed their own harvest traditions — dancing, games and feasting — from their ancient festival, Nickommoh, meaning “to give away” or “exchange.”
-About 20% of all cranberries that are consumed in the U.S. per year are eaten on Thanksgiving About 280 million turkeys are sold annually for Thanksgiving, which is about 7 million of Turkey and about a $3 billion dollars worth of sales.
-Due to the white meat being the most popular part of the turkey, they have been bred to have huge breasts. So much so, that modern day domesticated turkeys are no longer typically able to mate, due to the breasts getting in the way of a male mounting a female. Most hatchers use artificial insemination to fertilize the eggs of domestic turkeys.
-Whether you want to go traditional with a turkey, or a little more present-day with the Macy’s Thanksgiving Parade in NYC, Thanksgiving is not a holiday that should be missed. Even if you aren’t American or celebrate, you have the day to feast up! If you have no plans, the school always puts together a wonderful Thanksgiving feast so keep an eye out for email announcements.
Works Cited:http://blog.nwf.org/2011/11/twelve-unusual-and-fascinating-facts-about-wild-turkeys/http://www.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,1862503_1862505_1862507,00.htmlh t t p : / / w w w. t o d ay i f o u n d o u t . c o m / i n d ex .php/2010/11/10-interesting-thanksgiving-facts/
BY: Bianca Swanepole, AOS Baking and Pastry
A traditional Chuseok ArrangementPhoto By: blog.ningin.com
7November 9, 2012
Fall has gone almost as quickly as it came. By the time the leaves were changing into their vibrant colors, they were falling to the ground the next week. Now that the you-pick farms and farmers markets are slowly dwindling their offerings of the last of this seasons’ apples, squashes, and dark winter greens, your only option is to look forward to the coming holiday festivities and celebrations. If any or all of these are your thoughts toward the end of fall, I’m here to show you the bright side of things! There is no reason to be gloomy about snow, when right here in our backyard, there is going to be plenty going on. Right here in the Hudson Valley, as well as NYC there is a lot to do. Before we have a flashback to last years’ late snowfalls, make sure to get out and enjoy the events I am about to share with you. Even when the first flakes begin to fall, you will still find many options to enjoy, appreciate, and relish in during these changing seasons.
The first event, November 11-12 at Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York City, comes to us in the form of The International Hotel, Motel, and Restaurant Show. Over 25,000 attendees are expected. Remember, at these events to have fun and constantly network as you never know who you may run into or onto whose countertop you may be laying your knife roll on top of next.
On both days, the IHMRS offers free seminars that are able to focus on and cover a variety of
topics in our industry. Restaurant design, media and technology, marketing, as well as personal and professional development are among the talks and meetings. They are sure to inspire you to make your next career move.
In one of the Food Shows’ exhibits, The Salon of Culinary Art, organized by the Société Culinaire Philanthropique, features live cooking demonstrations and competitions in a variety of culinary skills as well as more than 300 static food displays. Being showcased are multiple Master Chefs and Pastry Chefs, culinarians, and others who will compete for prizes at the end of the weekend’s events.
Hudson Valley Restaurant Week is also going to be in full swing for two weeks from November 5-18. From the Red Devon in Bangall to Terrapin in Rhinebeck, over 150 restaurants have agreed to take part in this two-week food spectacular. It offers either lunch or dinner prix fixe menus to their guests. The menus feature each specific restaurants’ most popular or special menu items.
To compliment Restaurant Week, The Moviehouse in Millerton, NY is having a Food Film Festival to bring even more attention to the celebrations in the surrounding area. Multiple documentaries and films are going to be shown throughout the two weeks. Viewers bellies I’m sure will be rumbling after watching Jiro Dreams
of Sushi, or Fried Green Tomatoes and will be even more inclined to go to any one of the participating restaurants to satiate their appetite.
On November 17, Millbrook Vineyards’ Grand Portfolio Tasting is going to be welcoming visitors from 12-5PM at Millbrook Vineyards & Winery. They will be opening their entire wine portfolio for a special wine tasting to kick off the holiday season. Tastings will be accompanied by light snacks and specials on wine purchases. The Millbrook winemaking staff will be on hand to guide you and answer questions as they pour at wine stations throughout the winery.
The international pickle festival in Rosendale, NY is coming our way again on November 18 from 10 AM- 5PM. After attending last years’ fare I remember seeing companies, large and small, that came to the Hudson Valley from Vermont, Connecticut and beyond showcasing their many classic pickles as well as different vegetables and offerings, boasting proudly in their packed glass jars.
I hope that destination seekers like me have their schedule filled with these events and more to start getting you into the winter spirit and leave you hungry for more, regardless of our impending weather.
Kitchen of Americas has its American Southwest and Pacific Coast day for days 5 and 6. Ancho Rolleno: Stuffed ancho chilli with brown rice, mushrooms, and goat cheese.
For those who are on the fence about goat cheese, this pizza is perfect for you. The ricotta takes down the goat flavor a notch.
Atlantic Salmon is not in season for much longer, so try and get your hands on this dish before it leaves the menu. It is a special, meaning it will never be used on the menu again.
I know Brussels sprouts may be a food aversion for some, but when roasted with pancetta, how could anyone resist?
K16 may begin to transition into a “vegan with a side of meat” menu soon. With more whole grains appearing such as barley and quinoa, vegetarians and health con-scious individuals will be able to enjoy a hearty entree without meat.
From left to right:Caterina D’ MediciK-16Cuisines of the AmericasApple Pie Bakery Cafe
BY: Bianca Swanepole, AOS Baking and Pastry
BY: Stephanie Kirkland, AOS Culinary
8LA PAPILLOTE
Kingston, NY
MUST SELL(for health reasons)
Small Quaint Restaurant & Full BarExcellent Clientelle and Reputation
Premium Location forLunch and Dinner
Fully Furnished - Turn Key Operation
(845) 417-7746
BY: Samantha Lindmeier, AOS Culinary
A Trio of TriflesPhotos By: gormet.com
Turkey-cakes for breakfast!Photo: lawrys.com
Soup to warm the soul!Photo: bbcgoodfood.com
FOOD & BEVERAGE 9November 9, 2012
It is pitch black in Germantown. The town sits in the hills fifteen miles north of Rhinebeck, twenty-five miles north of the Culinary Institute of America, and about one hundred miles north of Manhattan.Complete silence is the only companion to the still, cold air of late October until an electronic alarm breaks the placidity. An iPhone screen flashes “4:00 AM” and an infant begins to cry. A wife stumbles in one direction towards a crib as her husband stumbles in the other direction towards the bedroom door. He makes his way to the tiny wine-room, turns
on the unshielded florescent lights, and picks up an odd tool. A stainless steel handle with a perforated disc about the size of a spade or shovel; like a potato masher for giants. He opens a huge wood box and gently punches down the cap of Cabernet Franc skins. He would likely be wondering if wine making is worth all this trouble, but his mind is too clouded with sleep.
There has been a slow, but steady progression in New York’s wine history. It was once believed that New York could never produce any quality wines and would be doomed to always produce inferior hybrid wines. However, Dr. Konstantine Frank of Odessa Russia changed that mindset when he prooved just that. With science and special breeding practices, he was able to grow high quality Vinifera in the Finger Lakes region of New York. Tradition and conventional wisdom still limits New York to growing white grape varieties like Chardonnay and Riesling. There are, however, some wine makers who dare to break rank and produce big red wines. One such avant-garde wine maker is Ben Peacock of Tousey Winery.Ben, his wife Kimberley, and her father Ray all work together as a team to produce some exceptional European style wines. The focus of the winery is on producing the highest quality Riesling possible. Their Riesling is currently the only Estate Riesling in the Hudson River Region. Tousey also produces a Chardonnay and a Cabernet Franc worth mentioning. If there is one thing I think Tousey is doing better than their Pinot Noir, it is delivering value; the quality of their wines and the very limited supply does not match the prices. However, the prices are bound to go up and match those of Dr. Frank and Millbrook once people learn about this relatively hidden gem.
Tousey Winery originally began by producing only one wine (Creme de Cassis) in small batches. When applying for state licensing, they realized was made that a larger investment of time and resources was needed, and the only way to justify it was with an increase in production. Tousey is still extremely
small, but now owns a vineyard along the Hudson River which produces about 60% of the grapes they need. At first glance, the Peacocks seem to be a romantic couple living in a wine-filled fantasy. Something people do not seem to realize though, is the extent to which old money and politics influence the selections in wine stores. Simply producing good wine does not ensure success. In fact, producing great wine results in financial losses more often than not, and many wineries find themselves out of business very shortly after releasing their
first vintage. As Professor Michael Weiss says, “The fastest way to make a small fortune in the wine industry is to start with a large fortune.”
The Peacocks have several advantages, and have made a very important decision that makes their long-term success more likely than other new wineries. In the early days, they sought out Peter Bell of Fox Run Vineyards, Seneca Lake, Finger
Lakes, New York, and worked with him as a
mentor to produce their first wines. The grapes for some of their wines were even purchased from Fox Run Vineyards. One of those wines, the 2009 Pinot Noir, is particularly noteworthy.
This Pinot Noir is one of the most exceptional wines I have ever tasted. There are three wines that I have fallen in love with on first taste: Lolonis, Orpheus, Redwood, Mendocino, California, 2006; Castello di Gabbiano, Chianti Classico, Reserva, 2006; and this Tousey Winery, Pinot Noir, 2009. All three wines have several things in common, like having some age and a very long, complex finish. From what I have read about this wine is that the 2010 vintage is even better than the 2009, and the 2012, which will be released around July 2013, will be better still. When I asked about the 2011 crop, I was told because of the large amount of rainfall, the red wines of that vintage are not expected to be good quality. They are thin and watery and lack a robust body and character. Many wineries, including Tousey, are considering not releasing them at all in order to preserve customer loyalty and trust in quality and consistency.
Ben is a chemist and businessperson, and Kimberley has a background in hospitality and restaurant business. That sort of seems like an investment firm owned by a statistician, a financial consultant, and an economist. In that regard, Tousey is simply poised for success. The only remark I have is that perhaps their production is too small to reach an audience large enough to keep them in business as they currently only fill two barrels with each batch of each wine.
The Pinot was fermented and then aged in French oak, for two years before release. The wine was recently re-released after the 2010 Pinot Noir
earned 90 points on Snooth and subsequently sold out. This Pinot Noir is not the average cold climate. Just open the bottle and the cork yields a surprise of its own. The un-marked cork was crusted in light purple tartrate crystals. Pour this wine from its Burgundy bottle to reveal a brick color typical of an aged Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese or Barolo. The wine itself is very much in the old style with a bold display of minerality in the nose and on the palate. It is an earthy amalgam with notes of mushroom, wet rocks, and hay. A crash of spicy black pepper notes contrast the base plum aroma. Mellow tannins cling to the cheeks causing a fuzzy sensation, and the high acidity makes the mouth salivate. Although this wine is medium-full body and would pair well with food, the balanced acidity and fullness of flavor make it very palatable (for me, at least) on its own.
This is a wine with a surprisingly long complex finish. As I am writing this, it strikes me again that this is a Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir should have a light body, and typically has a simple show of terroir or fruit flavors, and a fairly short finish. Part of me thinks that is just not right, while part of me doesn’t care and loves that it tastes like a big aged Barolo or Grenache or even Syrah. It makes me question why ‘varietal characteristic’ is considered a quality factor at all. Contrary to what many of my mentors and instructors at the CIA normally think, I don’t care what variety the grape is as long as it results in a great tasting wine.
This Pinot Noir would pair well with mildly spicy meat stews, braised duck legs, lamb shanks, and would be amazing with a line up of aged soft, semi-hard and hard cheeses. I would be wary of goat cheese though. While bridging with a simple salad
dressing over frisee and radicchio would likely work very well, I would not pair this with most fish dishes as the fish will likely get lost. I would gladly die for Osetra blinis with this wine.
BY: Yosef Sahler, AOS Culinary
2009 was one of the best vintages at TouseyPhoto: Tripadvisor.com
In the tasting roomPhoto: touseywinery.com
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SITE NAME STATE STUDENTBaking and Pastry Group
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Raymond Bickson is managing director and chief executive officer of Taj Hotels, Resorts, and Palaces. Mr. Bickson, whose hospitality career spans
more than 30 years and four continents, joined Taj Hotels in January 2003 to oversee all luxury property operations. That July, he was named managing director and chief executive officer of The Indian Hotels Company Limited (IHCL), a division of India’s Tata
Group conglomerate, with responsibility for all Taj Hotels operations and management, as well as its hospitality and travel subsidiary companies.
Under his leadership, the Taj Group has seen rapid global expansion, with new developments and acquisitions in key world markets including Africa, Australia, Bhutan, Dubai, India, Maldives, Malaysia, and the United States. The Taj Group has formed strategic partnerships with other luxury hotel chains and cruise lines; developed innovative new products, including India’s first luxury safari lodges and tours; and launched the Ginger Hotels, Gateway Hotels and Resorts, and the Vivanta by Taj brand.
Before joining Taj, Mr. Bickson served as vice president and general manager for The Mark hotel in New York City, first as part of The Rafael Group Hoteliers—Monaco and then as part of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group. His prior experience includes management positions with Regent International Hotels in New York, Chicago, Dallas, Puerto Rico, Melbourne, and Shanghai, as well as training positions with the Hôtel Plaza Athénée Paris, Le
Montreux Palace Switzerland, and the Kahala Hilton Hawaii.
Born and raised in Honolulu, HI, Mr. Bickson’s attended L’École Hôtelière de Lausanne in Switzerland and the advanced management program at Harvard Business School. In addition, he was awarded an honorary doctorate degree in hospitality management from Johnson & Wales University in Rhode Island.
Mr. Bickson is a member of the World Travel & Tourism Council (WTTC), the International Business Leaders Forum (IBLF), and the advisory boards of The Leading Hotels of the World (LHW), Cornell Hotel School Center for Hospitality Research, and L’École Hôtelière Lausanne. In 2007, he was honored with the Corporate Hotelier of the World Award from HOTELS magazine.
Provided by: Shelly Loveland, Coordinator
11November 9, 2012 POT LUCK
Prep time: 10 mins Cook time: 50 minsTotal time: 1 hour Serves: 4
Gluten-Free and Vegan
Coming In december!Arriving in Wappingers Falls!Eat in, Take Out, and Delivery!www.mexicali-blue.com
Mexicali Blue
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Ever have trouble deciding what to have for dessert during the fall months besides the ever popular pumpkin pie and cobbler? Instead of dreading the fall and winter months, be creative in the kitchen and try a unique bread pudding recipe. Eight months ago, I did that very thing. I decided to revive the traditional “grandmother’s” bread pudding recipe and put my own culinary twist on it. The traditional bread pudding recipe calls for left over biscuits, milk, eggs, sugar, and a little vanilla. My recipe utilizes standard white bread, eggs, heavy cream, sugar, vanilla, cinnamon, chopped pecans, maple syrup, and southern pecan coffee creamer. I serve the finished product with orange-scented chantilly cream and roasted pecan bourbon sauce. This delicious bread pudding is sure to warm you up with just one bite. For those food and beverage pairing aficionados, pair this fall delight with bourbon, Frangelico or a delicious, creamy beer. My inspiration for the following recipes below came from the use of local ingredients in both North Carolina and New York such as pecans, heavy cream, vanilla, and bourbon. The first recipe presented below is one utilizing an International Delight coffee creamer product popular in North Carolina. The recipe, following the original, is one utilizing similar flavors to the coffee creamer, but with the use of a different product.
Ingredients2 Tbsp. stevia3 Tbsp. Earth Balance Vegan Butter Sticks1 tsp. ground cinnamon1 Tbsp. orange zest3 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces3 Honey Crisp apples, peeled, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces1/2 cup gluten-free all purpose flour¼ cup finely chopped pistachios1/4 cup gluten-free oats2 Tbsp. freshly squeezed orange juice1/2 cup So Delicious Coconut Milk Yogurt
Instructions1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Prepare a baking dish with nonstick baking spray.2. In a medium bowl, combine stevia, 1 tablespoon melted butter, cinnamon and orange zest. Add apples, gently toss to combine. Trans-fer mixture to the prepared baking dish.3. In a small bowl, combine flour, pista-chios, oats, and remaining butter. Using your fingers, mix to form a crumb consistency. Sprinkle crumbs over apples. Drizzle with freshly squeezed orange juice. Cover dish with aluminum foil and bake for 30 minutes or until bubbling. Uncover and bake for another 20 min-utes.4. Remove from oven, set aside to cool for 15 minutes before serving.5. Serve with a dollop of yogurt.
NotesServings: 4 Serving Size: ~ 1 cup Calories: 333 cal • Fat: 14.4 g • Protein: 3.8 g • Carb: 57.2 g • Fiber: 17.3 g • Sugar: 29.3 g • Sodium: 91.7 mg
Roasted Pecan Bourbon SauceIngredients2 qt. bourbon2 cups white granulated sugar½ cup pomegranate juice1 cup grape jelly1 pint butter roasted pecans¼ cup peach schnapps
Method:Bring bourbon to a boil. Whisk in sugar and grape jelly until both ingredients are dissolved. Add pomegranate juice and peach schnapps. Turn sauce down to a simmer and reduce by half or until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Stir in roasted pecans. Hold warm until ready to serve.
Orange Scented Chantilly CreamIngredients1 pint heavy whipping cream2 Tbsp. Triple Sec1 cup powdered sugar
Method:Combine cream and triple sec in mixing bowl. Whip on high speed until soft peaks form. Add powdered sugar and continue whipping until medium peaks form. Keep chilled until ready to serve.
*Note: Fresh peaches and melted chocolate compliment the bread pudding.
Southern Pecan Maple Bread PuddingRoasted Pecan Bourbon Sauce
Orange Scented Chantilly CreamYields: 14 servingsPrep Time: 45 minutesCook Time: 30-45 minutesTotal Time: Approximately 2 hoursBread Pudding:Ingredients:1/2 loaf white bread1 pint heavy cream1 cup Southern Pecan flavored coffee creamer (International Delight brand preferred)3 eggs2 cups white granulated sugar2 Tbsp. ground cinnamon3 Tbsp. maple syrupMethod:Tear bread into one inch pieces and toast in a 375 degree oven for 20 minutes. While bread is toasting, combine all other ingredients in a mixing bowl. Mix until the sugar is dissolved completely. Once the bread is toasted, combine with the custard and toss, and let sit until all the liquid is absorbed into the bread. Grease fourteen muffin tins with cooking spray and place in a 350 degree oven in a water bath. Bake for 30-45 minutes until the bread is golden brown and slightly firm to the touch. Hold warm until ready to serve.
BY: Chris Rumley, BPS Culinary
