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WESTERN DAILY PRESS SATURDAY NOVEMBER 17 2012 WEST COUNTRY LIFE 19 WDP-E01-S3 18 WEST COUNTRY LIFE SATURDAY NOVEMBER 17 2012 WESTERN DAILY PRESS WDP-E01-S3 with ALAN DOWN Cleeve Nursery Tips Outdoors/gardening Compiled by Cleeve Nursery’s Alan Down Contact Alan at Cleeve Nursery, near Bristol, on 01934 832134. If you would like to ask Alan Down a gardening question, visit www.cleevenursery.co.uk and click on the Ask Us A Question tab. Alan can answer only emailed questions. Visit Alan’s blog at cleevenursery.co.uk/blog The Aquadulce broad beans, hardy onion and shallot sets are in, so what else can be planted in the allotment or veg plot? The answer is perennial veg. We see most perennial vegetables when we visit National Trust walled gardens but rarely do we make room for them in our less grand plots. And that’s a shame since they are cer- tainly easy enough to grow and, once established, will give us crops for many years with just the minimum of effort. Take artichokes for instance, these are not especially fussy about how good your soil is and once established will produce a good crop year after year. Of course there are two sorts of artichoke and very different they are too. Jerusalem artichokes are close rel- atives to sunflowers and once estab- lished can be hard to get rid of so think hard about where you plant them. They are also very tall and give excellent screening, albeit only in late summer. After they die down you can dig the edible tubers out like you would potatoes, but it is best to do this as and when you need them and to protect them from frost in the soil by covering and mulching them. There is no need to earth these up as they grow and there is no risk of them getting blight. The edible bit of globe artichokes on the other hand, is the flower bud and these can be delicious. Looking like a thistle on steroids, globe artichokes take up quite a bit of space and the yield from each plant can be light. However, it pays to plant a named variety or proven clone where you can. There is plenty to plant as long as it’s perennial One of the most exciting things about growing fruit and vegetables is that you have an opportunity to try new things each year. I love experimenting with new varieties and different ways of grow- ing things, just to see if they work. Often that’s the best way to find out if something will suit your particular growing space, because the advice that you otherwise find in books, and, dare I say it, the gardening pages of newspapers will, of course, be more general. But experimenting isn’t just about becoming increasingly effect- ive, or successful as a gardener, al- though that is always welcome. It is also simply to have fun. People can be a bit snooty about having fun when it comes to garden- ing. I remember reading a review of a wonderful Joy Larkcom book on growing vegetables, which more or less suggested that she was only “playing at it”. Retiring to the allotment for a spot of therapeutic weeding, I pondered that statement, and wondered, well, what exactly would be wrong with that? It’s my experience that people who treat gardening too seriously are often the ones who give up soonest. If you can approach it with a sense that enjoyment is what matters, rather than the size of a harvest, then every year will have the potential to be a good one. One of my best experiments this year involved growing the winter squash in a different way. I tried growing it vertically, rather than let- ting it sprawl over the growing beds and taking up a lot of room. At the time I decided to give this a go, there had already been a lot of summer rain, and it seemed like a good idea to keep the squashes away from the damp and the slugs, by encouraging them upwards. This turned out to be surprisingly easy. I wrapped chicken- wire around the posts that already support a grapevine, and tied in the squash plant stems as they began to shoot away. The variety I tried this year was a “Burgess vine buttercup”. If you haven’t grown winter squash before or have found them bland, I would really recommend this one. It has very good flavour. It was also in its element climbing up the posts, throw- ing out mighty coiling tendrils to support itself; it didn’t need my help at all. The stems easily reached eight to 10ft high. What I particularly liked about this variety is that the fruits don’t grow too large, ours were between six to eight inches, which I think is just the right amount to use in a recipe. Although the flesh is orange, the skin is a gorgeous glossy dark green, with minty green stripes. Suspended at different heights on the vine they looked beautiful. In a year when lots of other crops failed, it was a singular encourage- ment to see these doing so well. Plot Lines I recently visited the artichoke growers of Brittany and learnt that they keep a sharp watch for any plant among their hectares of crops that gives an above average yield. Shoots from the base are then removed from these, propagated and multiplied to form the basis of their new stock. Important though this part of France is for artichokes, the world capital for this crop is around Monterey, just south of San Francisco. Cardoons, a very close relative of globe artichokes and more often grown among flower borders for its dramatic leaves, can be forced and the new leaves blanched to make them edible, although sea kale is more likely to be grown this way. However, the real perennial veget- able that we grow much more often is of course the rhubarb. This is a veget- able (although some classify it as a fruit) that can be grown in the odd corner and will tolerate being grown in shade too. Now is a very good time to plant new rhubarb crowns after digging in plenty of well rotted farmyard manure. Let your new plants estab- lish for at least a couple of years before you even dream of forcing those tasty colourful leaf stems. Rhubarb and chard forcing pots, whether you use them or not, are lovely artefacts for the garden and I have collected several old ones for just that reason. Of course, you can still buy new ones and they would be a good item to put on your Christmas wish list. Horseradish could not be easier to grow, indeed once you have it you will find it hard to get rid of it. If you come across it in the countryside, the chances are it is all that is left visible of an old dwelling that has long since disappeared. For horse radish will last several lifetimes. Beware when making your own horseradish sauce from fresh roots of this one, it can be almost as hot to the taste as its relat- ive wasabi. Finally, the last perennial vegetable that I recommend to you is as- paragus. Slow to get going but very long lived, this is well worth the effort. You will need to earth this one up to blanch the new shoots as they emerge in spring, and you need soil that is well drained and free of perennial weeds too. But asparagus is well worth the effort and until recently one of the few real luxury vegetables that you could easily grow on your plot. Almost all the books recommend that you plant in March or even April. This is far too late, unless you are planting pot-grown plants, as estab- lished plants will be already cropping by then. Far better to plant this one, and all the other perennial vegetables when you have had time to prepare the soil well and the soil is easy to work, anytime from now until late February. Alan’s gardening tips for the weekend If you haven’t done it already, trim the dead flower heads off summer and autumn-flowering heathers. A good pair of secateurs such as Felco (an excellent gift) is suitable for this. Trim a little of the shoot tips off too as this will keep them nice and com- pact. Fork over borders and work into the soil a slow release feed such as Fish, Blood and Bone or Bonemeal. Pot up amaryllis (hippeastrum) bulbs. Use quality multipurpose com- post and leave the top third of the bulb standing proud of the compost. Water very little until leaves appear. Repot older plants into fresh compost now too. Wash the glass down with Jeyes multipurpose disinfectant and cleaner to let in as much light as available. Try propagating plants by taking root cuttings now. It is surprisingly easy to do but not all plants can be multiplied this way. Oriental poppies, border phlox, some primula, mullein, sea holly, bear’s breeches and dicentra are well worth trying. Dig up a healthy plant, cut thicker roots into 5cm to 7cm lengths and “sow” them in pots filled with cutting compost. They root by late spring. Reduce the feeding of indoor plants to just fortnightly and reduce the amount of water too. Treat paths with Armillatox or Patio Magic Path Cleaner to control algae and moulds that make them slippery when wet. Control moss on the lawn with Vitax Green Up Mosskiller. Ask Alan Question I would like to move some well-estab- lished trees around my garden in Failand. Is there a best time to do this? From A Densley Answer After leaf fall and before the buds start to move in late winter is a good time but, provided that the trees are dormant, now is the best time. I am a little concerned that you describe your trees as “well estab- lished” and if they are, they are less likely to transplant well. Nursery- men root prune their trees on a regu- lar basis to encourage fibrous roots to grow close to the trunk and then these are not cut off when a tree is transplanted. It is the hairy roots that are the important ones and the thick ones are more for stability. Given more time I would have re- commended that you had root pruned your trees in the late summer of the year before you intended to move them (about 14 months before) so that they had a chance to make new fibrous roots. Younger trees would not need that treatment. Get as much of the roots out as you can, keep them moist until replanted, Now is the perfect time of year to get some rhubarb crowns in the ground The Mahonia Lionel Fortescue – a tough plant that’s easy to grow The length in centimetres that you will need for a root cutting 5 to 7 ‘Once established, perennial vegetables will give crops for many years’ Alan Down prepare the planting hole very well, support the trees with a stake and water well next summer. Alan’s Plant of the Week Mahonia Lionel Fortescue Mahonias are such useful easy-to- grow and tough plants. When most shrubs are shutting down for winter, mahonia gets in to top gear. There are three widely planted types with the spring-flowering slightly invasive mahonia aquifo- lium now less popular with garden- ers than it was. This one has a cluster of scented blooms followed by blue berries, and will grow in remarkably inhospitable places. The other widely planted one is mahonia japonica which generally flowers early in the new year and has gorgeous lily of the valley scented lemon yellow flowers that trail from the top of each evergreen shoot. But the mahonia that is in bloom now has upright scented yellow flowers and its growth habit is up- right too, so fits neatly into a border and adds evergreen height. There are several named varieties of this hybrid type and Charity is probably the best known. This is an excellent choice, but I am fond of the variety Lionel Fortescue which is, I believe, just as good and with blooms less hidden by the attractively sub- divided glossy leaves. Events at Cleeve Nursery Decorations For Christmas a demonstration by Felicity Down, is on Wednesday November 28, at 7.30pm This will be a charity evening. This popular demo is regularly over subscribed. Tickets costs £5 which includes a glass of wine. To book email [email protected] or call 01934 832134. From top down, globe artichokes and Jerusalem artichokes can be planted now, as can asparagus. It is also a good time of year to take root cuttings with FIONA SANDERSON For Good Advice & Excellent Home Grown Plants visit your local nursery! Cleeve Nursery 138 Main Road, Cleeve, BS49 4PW 01934 832134 www.cleevenursery.co.uk

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WESTERN DAILY PRESS SATURDAY NOVEMBER 17 2012 WEST COUNTRY LIFE 19WDP-E01-S318 WEST COUNTRY LIFE SATURDAY NOVEMBER 17 2012 WESTERN DAILY PRESS WDP-E01-S3

with ALAN DOWNCleeve Nursery Tips

Outdoors/gardening Compiled by Cleeve Nursery’s Alan Down Contact Alan at Cleeve Nursery, nearBristol, on 01934 832134. If you would like to ask Alan Down a gardening question,visit www.cleevenursery.co.uk and click on the Ask Us A Question tab. Alan cananswer only emailed questions. Visit Alan’s blog at cleevenursery.co.uk/blog

The Aquadulce broad beans, hardyonion and shallot sets are in, so whatelse can be planted in the allotment orveg plot?

The answer is perennial veg.We see most perennial vegetables

when we visit National Trust walledgardens but rarely do we make roomfor them in our less grand plots. Andt h at ’s a shame since they are cer-tainly easy enough to grow and, onceestablished, will give us crops formany years with just the minimum ofef fort.

Take artichokes for instance, theseare not especially fussy about howgood your soil is and once establishedwill produce a good crop year afteryear. Of course there are two sorts ofartichoke and very different they aret o o.

Jerusalem artichokes are close rel-atives to sunflowers and once estab-lished can be hard to get rid of sothink hard about where you plantthem. They are also very tall and give

excellent screening, albeit only inlate summer. After they die down youcan dig the edible tubers out like youwould potatoes, but it is best to do thisas and when you need them and toprotect them from frost in the soil bycovering and mulching them. Thereis no need to earth these up as theygrow and there is no risk of themgetting blight.

The edible bit of globe artichokeson the other hand, is the flower budand these can be delicious.

Looking like a thistle on steroids,globe artichokes take up quite a bit ofspace and the yield from each plantcan be light. However, it pays to planta named variety or proven clonewhere you can.

There is plentyto plant as longas it’s perennial

One of the most exciting things aboutgrowing fruit and vegetables is thatyou have an opportunity to try newthings each year.

I love experimenting with newvarieties and different ways of grow-ing things, just to see if they work.Often that’s the best way to find out ifsomething will suit your particulargrowing space, because the advicethat you otherwise find in books, and,dare I say it, the gardening pages ofnewspapers will, of course, be moregeneral. But experimenting isn’t justabout becoming increasingly effect-ive, or successful as a gardener, al-though that is always welcome. It isalso simply to have fun.

People can be a bit snooty abouthaving fun when it comes to garden-ing. I remember reading a review of awonderful Joy Larkcom book ongrowing vegetables, which more orless suggested that she was only“playing at it”.

Retiring to the allotment for a spotof therapeutic weeding, I ponderedthat statement, and wondered, well,what exactly would be wrong withthat? It’s my experience that peoplewho treat gardening too seriously areoften the ones who give up soonest. Ifyou can approach it with a sense thatenjoyment is what matters, ratherthan the size of a harvest, then everyyear will have the potential to be agood one.

One of my best experiments thisyear involved growing the wintersquash in a different way. I triedgrowing it vertically, rather than let-ting it sprawl over the growing bedsand taking up a lot of room. At thetime I decided to give this a go, therehad already been a lot of summerrain, and it seemed like a good idea tokeep the squashes away from thedamp and the slugs, by encouragingthem upwards. This turned out to besurprisingly easy. I wrapped chicken-wire around the posts that alreadysupport a grapevine, and tied in thesquash plant stems as they began toshoot away.

The variety I tried this year was a“Burgess vine buttercup”. If youh ave n’t grown winter squash beforeor have found them bland, I wouldreally recommend this one. It hasvery good flavour. It was also in itselement climbing up the posts, throw-ing out mighty coiling tendrils tosupport itself; it didn’t need my helpat all. The stems easily reached eightto 10ft high.

What I particularly liked about thisvariety is that the fruits don’t growtoo large, ours were between six toeight inches, which I think is just theright amount to use in a recipe.

Although the flesh is orange, theskin is a gorgeous glossy dark green,with minty green stripes. Suspendedat different heights on the vine theylooked beautiful.

In a year when lots of other cropsfailed, it was a singular encourage-ment to see these doing so well.

PlotLines

I recently visited the artichokegrowers of Brittany and learnt thatthey keep a sharp watch for any plantamong their hectares of crops thatgives an above average yield. Shootsfrom the base are then removed fromthese, propagated and multiplied toform the basis of their new stock.Important though this part of Franceis for artichokes, the world capital forthis crop is around Monterey, justsouth of San Francisco.

Cardoons, a very close relative ofglobe artichokes and more oftengrown among flower borders for itsdramatic leaves, can be forced and thenew leaves blanched to make themedible, although sea kale is morelikely to be grown this way.

However, the real perennial veget-able that we grow much more often isof course the rhubarb. This is a veget-able (although some classify it as afruit) that can be grown in the oddcorner and will tolerate being grownin shade too.

Now is a very good time to plantnew rhubarb crowns after digging inplenty of well rotted farmyardmanure. Let your new plants estab-lish for at least a couple of yearsbefore you even dream of forcingthose tasty colourful leaf stems.

Rhubarb and chard forcing pots,whether you use them or not, arelovely artefacts for the garden and Ihave collected several old ones forjust that reason. Of course, you canstill buy new ones and they would bea good item to put on your Christmaswish list.

Horseradish could not be easier togrow, indeed once you have it you willfind it hard to get rid of it. If you comeacross it in the countryside, thechances are it is all that is left visibleof an old dwelling that has long sincedisappeared. For horse radish willlast several lifetimes. Beware whenmaking your own horseradish saucefrom fresh roots of this one, it can bealmost as hot to the taste as its relat-ive wasabi.

Finally, the last perennial vegetablethat I recommend to you is as-para gus.

Slow to get going but very longlived, this is well worth the effort. Youwill need to earth this one up toblanch the new shoots as they emergein spring, and you need soil that iswell drained and free of perennialweeds too.

But asparagus is well worth theeffort and until recently one of thefew real luxury vegetables that youcould easily grow on your plot.

Almost all the books recommend thatyou plant in March or even April.This is far too late, unless you areplanting pot-grown plants, as estab-lished plants will be already croppingby then. Far better to plant this one,and all the other perennial vegetableswhen you have had time to preparethe soil well and the soil is easy towork, anytime from now until lateFebr uary.

Alan’s gardening tipsfor the weekend■ If you haven’t done it already, trimthe dead flower heads off summer andautumn-flowering heathers. A goodpair of secateurs such as Felco (anexcellent gift) is suitable for this.Trim a little of the shoot tips off too asthis will keep them nice and com-pact.■ Fork over borders and work intothe soil a slow release feed such asFish, Blood and Bone or Bonemeal.■ Pot up amaryllis (hippeastrum)bulbs. Use quality multipurpose com-post and leave the top third of the bulbstanding proud of the compost. Watervery little until leaves appear. Repotolder plants into fresh compost nowt o o.■ Wash the glass down with Jeyesmultipurpose disinfectant andcleaner to let in as much light asava i l abl e.■ Try propagating plants by takingroot cuttings now. It is surprisinglyeasy to do but not all plants can bemultiplied this way. Oriental poppies,border phlox, some primula, mullein,sea holly, bear’s breeches anddicentra are well worth trying. Dig upa healthy plant, cut thicker roots into5cm to 7cm lengths and “s ow ” them inpots filled with cutting compost.They root by late spring.■ Reduce the feeding of indoorplants to just fortnightly and reducethe amount of water too.■ Treat paths with Armillatox orPatio Magic Path Cleaner to controlalgae and moulds that make themslippery when wet.■ Control moss on the lawn withVitax Green Up Mosskiller.

Ask AlanQuestionI would like to move some well-estab-lished trees around my garden inFailand. Is there a best time to dothis?From A DensleyAnswerAfter leaf fall and before the budsstart to move in late winter is a goodtime but, provided that the trees aredormant, now is the best time.

I am a little concerned that youdescribe your trees as “well estab-lished” and if they are, they are lesslikely to transplant well. Nursery-men root prune their trees on a regu-lar basis to encourage fibrous roots togrow close to the trunk and thenthese are not cut off when a tree istransplanted. It is the hairy roots thatare the important ones and the thickones are more for stability.

Given more time I would have re-commended that you had root prunedyour trees in the late summer of theyear before you intended to movethem (about 14 months before) so thatthey had a chance to make newfibrous roots. Younger trees wouldnot need that treatment.

Get as much of the roots out as youcan, keep them moist until replanted,Now is the perfect time of year to get some rhubarb crowns in the ground

The Mahonia LionelFortescue – a tough plantthat’s easy to grow

The length in centimetres that you willneed for a root cutting

5 to 7‘Once established,perennial vegetableswill give crops formany years’

Alan Down

prepare the planting hole very well,support the trees with a stake andwater well next summer.

Alan’s Plant of the WeekMahonia Lionel FortescueMahonias are such useful easy-to-grow and tough plants. When mostshrubs are shutting down for winter,mahonia gets in to top gear.

There are three widely plantedtypes with the spring-floweringslightly invasive mahonia aquifo-lium now less popular with garden-ers than it was. This one has a clusterof scented blooms followed by blueberries, and will grow in remarkablyinhospitable places.

The other widely planted one ismahonia japonica which generallyflowers early in the new year and hasgorgeous lily of the valley scentedlemon yellow flowers that trail fromthe top of each evergreen shoot.

But the mahonia that is in bloomnow has upright scented yellowflowers and its growth habit is up-right too, so fits neatly into a borderand adds evergreen height.

There are several named varietiesof this hybrid type and Charity isprobably the best known. This is anexcellent choice, but I am fond of thevariety Lionel Fortescue which is, Ibelieve, just as good and with bloomsless hidden by the attractively sub-divided glossy leaves.

Events at Cleeve NurseryDecorations For Christmas – ademonstration by Felicity Down, ison Wednesday November 28, at7.30pm

This will be a charity evening.This popular demo is regularly

over subscribed. Tickets costs £5which includes a glass of wine. Tobook email info@clee v enursery.co.ukor call 01934 832134.

From top down, globe artichokes and Jerusalem artichokes can be planted now, as canasparagus. It is also a good time of year to take root cuttings

with FIONA SANDERSON

ForGoodAdvice&Excellent HomeGrown Plants

visit your local nursery!

Cleeve Nursery138 Main Road, Cleeve, BS49 4PW

01934 832134www.cleevenursery.co.uk