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Content03INNOVATIONEverything is possible in Africa

11SUNSCREENS Interview: Novel fi lm-forming polymer

13ADDITIVESClays go with the fl ow

15SAFETY ASSESSORTraining concept by DGK /IKW

17ALBAN MULLER Natrual Cosmetic Producs

27SHARON LABORATORIESUpdating Preservation concepts

42GIVAUDANThe 3D Y-zone reshaper & moodbooster

64MINASOLVEGreen solutions to protect your formulations

71BASFBlue light protection

The African Opportunity for Innovation by Berverly Claire Gardner, Skyem Consulting

It has been found that many widely held beliefs about innovation are in fact not true or conducive to innovative cultures. Contrary to the popular narrative that innovation is spontaneous, it sometimes needs to be forced. In this regard, time-based disruption can create transformative momentum. Therefore, what are the steps to pre-empt your customer’s needs in the modern Africa? One factor is to stop selling and start positioning rather. Brands need to shift from communication to connection, which is vital for Afrillenials (African millennials). Mar-ket research is sometimes perceived as the ideal basis for generating ideas, but in order to produce profound innovations, it should be avoided, to some extent. In Africa, millionaires will ‘live down the road’ from the poo-rest of the poor. Digital start-ups are working to help rural farmers and goat herders. In Africa today, anything is possible!

DRIVERS FOR INNOVATION

Key drivers for innovation are: urbanization and connectivity. Africa’s urbanization rate is already at 37%, com-parable to China, and bigger than India. Between 2020 and 2050, Africa is expected to be the world’s largest urbanizing region. Africa’s ‘youth explosion’ (defined as the percentage of young people between the ages of 16- 30 years old living in urban areas), is at 37.2%, outstripping Asia (34.6%) and LATAM (33.7%).

FIGURE 1Africa’s urban youth explosion

African millennials are a generation on the move. They are fashionable, engaged, connected, ambitious and outgoing. While Afrillenials share many characteristics with their western counterparts, the different social- and economic context leads to subtle but important nuances. To be young today means to hustle. The youth are expected to achieve from an earlier age. There are numerous pressures to be wealthy, educated, celebrated and woke, and many African youths are achieving this all through their personal hustles.Afrillenials are more agitated (portraying a vocal, no-nonsense approach to life) and ambitious – they desire to learn how to start their own business. They are also more nationalist, ie more proudly African, than generati-ons in the past. Being more demonstrative means that they enjoy being a conspicuous consumer. How is your brand speaking to this audience? Is it on eye-level with them? No one cares if your company or brand won an award. Rather than post or advertise pictures of awards your brand has achieved, show consumers who you are and how you can help. Some brands are losing the ability to connect with this group. Rather share real life stories of the application of your product or service. It needs to be authentic and aimed at their best interests and not yours. Often companies confuse their purpose and their brand. The purpose is not your brand. You - the CEO, the MD, must be authentic, tangible, relevant and sustainable. Recent studies have named millennials as the most creative generation. They had apps to design, videos to compile, music to make and the ability to see wider potential in any given object than their parents. A 2016

3 INNOVATION

survey by Deloitte showed that almost 1/3 of all UK smartphone users never actually use their ‘phones’ to make calls. This is a worldwide trend.

GETTING ONTO THE SHOPPING LIST

This proves challenging in the landscape of Africa. Everything competes with everything.

Due to minimal income wages, personal care products are often placed last on the list (or even excluded), due to the priority of staple food items or airtime/data, rather.A common purchasing method that South African citizens use is called informal buying- or savings groups. This Informal buying is called ‘Stokvel’. Selected members will do the monthly shopping on behalf of the whole group. For them to achieve the most discounted purchase prices, the designated member is most often buying in bulk, of a certain variant or brand to be shared/distributed amongst the members. Interesting purchasing dynamics such as these, have to be factored into the marketing or sales strategy of brand owners. For brands to be successful in this market arena, or to win in the informal trade, they have to embrace the African ways of commerce.

FIGURE 2Informal buying or ‘Stokvel’ is common practice in South Africa

PACKAGING

Packaging delivers a powerful argument and ultimately reframes a brand’s worth. Especially in Africa, visual cues can make all the difference! You brand must show content and use colours to differentiate. Image-led

4 INNOVATION

instructions and pictograms are popularly preferred in this market.

Careful evolution of your brand identity is key to maintaining familiarity and loyalty with your target consumer through the product life cycle, and still maintaining relevance. Multinational brand, Nivea, is a perfect example.

Value perception matters to the consumer. This is particularly evident in sales of fabric detergent products, or body glycerine oils and petroleum jelly brands, in low income economies or emerging markets across Africa. A ‘short term use shopper’ may only have a meagre weekly amount available to spend on commodities, and a product that is in a smaller sized pack, eg in a sachet, may sell well in a certain area/demographic of the country, compared to a bulk package of this same product for the ‘volume shopper’ – who receives a bulk discount in an-other region of the same country . It is always interesting when talking to brand owners/manufacturers across Africa, as to which sizes sell well. More often than not, in some geographical areas of a certain country – the smallest sized pack will have the highest month- on month sales. Both sides of the spectrum, ie whether sachet- or bulk size, can signify value to the consumer. Know which ‘value perception’ your consumer associates with.

Packaging re-design can make all the difference too. Recently, in a super-smart campaign that appeals to kids of all ages, Kellogg’s in Australia has temporarily made the packaging for its most popular cereal varieties, black and white, in a new partnership with Crayola, encouraging consumers to ‘colour and win’. Therefore, in the same vein, cosmetic companies could seek opportunistic partnerships or temporary associations with other

5 INNOVATION

companies not within their own industry to ‘bring to life’ or ‘revive’ a cosmetic brand, with such ‘out of the box’ thinking, so as to increase product sales.

Brand owners need to be aware how certain disruptive formats are appearing in packaging. For example, OMO had a 100% market share in Uganda selling detergent sachets in urban areas. Nomi (a local detergent manufac-ture in Uganda), disrupted the market a couple of years ago with a white washing powder- sold in buckets (up to 7Kg) that became extremely popular with school children, to be used as lunchboxes. Nomi now owns the lion’s share (34%) with Ariel at 30% and OMO at only 18%!

SPLINTERNET

The splinternet in-a-nutshell refers to the way certain countries, areas and cultures are cut off from the rest of the (supposedly) worldwide web. It is also referred to as cyber-balkanization or internet balkanization and is a characterization of the Internet as splintering and dividing due to various factors, such as technology, commer-ce, politics, nationalism and religion."Powerful forces are threatening to balkanize it", writes the Economist weekly, and it may soon splinter along geographic and commercial boundaries. Countries such as China have erected what is termed a ‘Great Firewall’, for political reasons, while other nations, such as the US and Australia, discuss plans to create a similar fire-wall to block child pornography or weapon-making instructions. Clyde Wayne Crews, a researcher at the Cato Institute, first used the term in 2001 to describe his concept of "parallel Internets that would be run as distinct, private, and autonomous universes." Crews used the term in a positive sense, but more recent writers, like Scott Malcomson, use the term pejoratively to describe a growing threat to the internet's status as a globe-spanning network of networks. Describing the splintering of internet technology, some writers see the problem in terms of new devices using different standards. Users no longer require web browser to access the Internet, as new hardware tools often come with their own "unique set of standards" for displaying information. Journalist and author Doc Searls used the term "splinternet" to describe the "growing distance between the ideals of the Inter-net and the realities of dysfunctional nationalisms", which contribute to the various, and sometimes incompati-ble standards which often make it difficult for search engines to use the data. He notes that "it all works because the Web is standardized. Google works because the Web is standardized". However, as new devices incorporate their own ad networks, formats, and technology, many are able to "hide content" from search engines". The risk of the internet splitting into regional and national networks rather than one global platform is increasing daily and with each new government policy.

6 INNOVATION

People in Africa without internet are not engaging with social media, or bearing the brunt of fake news. Howe-ver, they then also do not have access to critical information that could help them find the solutions they despe-rately need. As John Sanei in his book ‘Foresight’ asks: “This begs the question - does real world geography have a role to lay in business and the world of innovation? “ Famine, disease and low levels of formal education are enormous obstacles. What does this all equate to? Opportunity to try new things - opportunity to make plenty of profit! Africa is a continent of abundant opportunities– eager to join the limitless future. It is enthusiastically yearning for game-changing solutions to its many long-standing issues – a fertile ground for ‘out-of-the-box’, adaptable thinkers, to harness the tech revolution, make a real impact and change the world.

AFRICA’S DIGITAL MUSCLE

The use of the internet in Africa is becoming the heartbeat of the African shopper economy. In Kenya, 83% of the population are online already compared to South Africa (56%) and Nigeria (60%). (Business Insider SA, July 2019) But Nigeria’s internet population of 112 million means that more than one out of five African internet users are from that country. Internet penetration should get a boost from faster internet, with Google and Face-book planning separate projects to build underwater cables to bring more internet capacity to the continent.

Figure 3World Internet Usage

Last month, an estimated 525 million Africans went online. There are now more internet users on the continent that in North America (327 million) and the Middle East (174 million) combined. (Business Insider SA – July 2019) The number of African online users is already larger than in Latin America (448 million) and at current growth ra-tes could eclipse Europe (719 million) as internet penetration on the continent grows. Almost 40% of the African population used the internet in June 2019. Elsewhere in the world, the percentage was more than 60% according to data compiled by the marketing firm, Miniwatts, using information from Nielsen Online, by the International Telecommunications Union, by GfK and local regulators.

A visual representation of the data was published on the Reddit platform, contrasting total populations with internet penetration, and clearly showing how Africa is starting to flex its digital muscle. While only 40% of Africans used the internet last month, in terms of sheer numbers this meant that more people on the continent were online than in Latin America. Companies with brands in Africa cannot ignore insightful statistics such as these – especially those companies largely only targeting an audience or consumer group who are currently not having access to the internet, whether because of geographical location or financial disparity. So many things in the world are increasing at an exponential rate (ie technology, information), whilst other things are free or becoming free (ie wifi). As incomes rise, purchasing power improves and these markets mature- new distribution systems and the digital economy are enabling a greater reach. Companies have to be digitally geared up for the future.

7 INNOVATION

Figure 4Digital Needs – Pyramid of Maslow 2.0

Figure 5Statistical Indicators for the African Region’s internet, mobile and social media users

Mobile internet adoption in Africa continues to grow rapidly. So why do businesses not adapt to technology? In many cases, they believe they do not need to or that their target market is and will largely remain untouched by digital explosion. With these statistics, it is glaringly obvious to note that the customer is experiencing your com-pany in many different channels. 70% of the sales cycle is happening before in-store purchase. The consumer is researching you! We have more data available on consumers than what we have ever had before. Oracle Cloud believes that 870 million devices will have voice recognition by 2022. No human can always predict what the consumer wants. You have employ technology to assist your brand in a world that is changing at such a drama-tic pace –and will evolve even faster for the coming generation. A customer’s digital activities and interactions result in enormous data, which needs to be structured and mined to gather relevant insights. Artificial Intelligen-ce can sift through this data to determine customer trends across the channels your customer is using.

8 INNOVATION

Figure 6Africa on facebook and twitter

ARE DISRUPTERS INNOVATORS?

Innovation is the process that solves problems in new, slightly better ways. It is the app that makes things easier and smoother. However, disruption takes that problem -solving centre and uses it to change the world! Think iPods, Airbnb, Netflix, Instagram and Uber. Technology and the exponential future do not care about our past. (Foresight – John Sanei)

Disruptors take a left turn by literally uprooting and changing how we think, behave, do business, learn and go about our day-to-day. Disruptors displace an existing market, industry, or technology and produce something new and more efficient and worthwhile. Influencer marketing is growing exponentially. The beauty industry is the first to undergo a massive shift to influencers because of the tremendous failure of traditional marketing efforts and channels. Look outside of the cosmetic industry for other worthy disruptors in Africa. Examples are: M-Pesa (cell phone based money transfer and micro financing service in Kenya, Flutterwave (a payment app in Nigeria), JUMO (a cash lender in Ghana), and Bank Zero ( a South African bank with host of cheaper financial products). Technology and the exponential future do not care about our past. ’Merely hoping that disruption is not on your horizon is not a strategy; it is an avoidance”, quotes Daniel Burns.

REVOLUTION ON THE HORIZON

Businesses in townships – areas designated for non-whites under apartheid – have largely been ignored by big banks in South Africa, Johannesburg’s financial district Sandton, even though some have tens of millions of revenue a year. First National Bank has set its sights on the townships as it prepares to defend its No 1 posi-tion from rival Capitec bank and new digital lenders such as Tyme Bank and Bank Zero which have shaken up the retail market with cheaper products and are poised to enter business banking. Among the metal shacks and narrow side streets of South Africa’s townships, one of the country’s biggest lenders sees a sizeable market it wants to be first to crack: multi-million-rand businesses operating largely in cash. FirstRand, South Africa’s biggest lender by market share, sees enterprises such as Ram Thapa’s, a beauty shop and fast-food outlet with combined annual turnover of R19 million but no business account, as ripe targets for a host of financial pro-ducts. (Reuters – Emma Rumney, July 2019)

9 INNOVATION

Figure 7First National Bank in South Africa is hoping its zero-free offering will attract price-conscious entrepreneurs in townships, giving it access to data for cross-selling and growing the market for financial products.

HOW TO BE A DISRUPTOR IN YOUR INDUSTRY?5 years from now, Millenials will not be a misunderstood demographic with a new perspective. They will be the world’s strongest spending force, and a critical part of the team you need to build for tomorrow, as they can represent the needs of a younger market. It is imperative that companies recruit a certain ratio of the youth to be the insight for a future we cannot wholly predict. Three teams, as part of a company’s innovation strategy, need to be operative at any given moment. They are: ‘Today’s team’ is the Innovation Team (focused on keeping the business profitable for the next 1-2 years). ‘Tomorrow’s team’ is the Disruption Team (focused on a 2-5 year horizon). The ‘Day-after team’ is the Revolution team (focused on 5-10 years out). The Revolution team can help your business ‘find the future’ by confronting and contextualizing trends. Ultimately, they work with a future five to ten years from now – which will be completely different from anything we know! (Foresight, John Sanei). Inno-vation with a goal of efficiency, or for the sake of efficiency, no longer applies. Most imperative too, is to engage with and bring consumers, trend experts and transformation specialist into your business.HOW TO BE AN INNOVATOR IN AFRICA?

This generation does not want to westernize. It wants to modernize! A major misconception in brand marketing in Africa has been that the emerging black middle class is westernizing and abandoning their culture. There is a big difference between modernizing and westernizing. As author GG Alcock so eloquently states, “The success of marketing lies in understanding that culture evolves- yet is maintained”. Look at Africa’s problems and ascertain how your company can come up with sustainable products that minimize waste. Maintain an eye on business models, such as peer-to-peer, or products that are truly tackling consumer’s pain points. Make use of predictive analytics and big data to discover consumer patterns that allow your company to craft targeted offers. Do not merely innovate for the sake of innovating, or to only make a profit. Africans are tired of ‘donors’. See what your brand can do for the consumer, and not how the consumer can fit the brand. Companies should use their disruptive, innovative thinking for something more profound than simply making money.

Brands are advised to acknowledge the emerging African self-consciousness and talk to Africans on an eye level. Brands should leverage millennials as a homogenous pan-African audience. They need to be authentic, true to their core and support their consumer’s lifestyle. Brands to use social media as an amplifier and do it with care. Social media is a powerful mobiliser – but it means understanding the audience and what is important to them. Brands are to be the best version of themselves and reflect values of compassion and humanity. With these intrinsic values and goals, your company is structured to succeed in recognizing opportunities and accurately innovating for the African market.

REFERENCES

• Foresight – John Sanei• Kasinomics – GG Alcock• The Anticipatory Organization – Daniel Burns• Food for Growth – Danone• Reuters – Emma Rumney, July 2019• Moneyweb, July 2019• Oracle , 2019 ( www.oracle.com)• Business Insider SA, July 2019

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Jens Müller, Global Technical Marketing Director at Nouryon

Novel film-forming polymer for emulsion-based sun screens Jens Müller, Global Technical Marketing Director at Nouryon in an interview on the performance of a recently intro-duced ingredient for sun screens.

1/ Your recently introduced a new film-forming polymer for emulsion-based sun screens. What was the key-driver for this new development?

Jens Müller: While global consumers grow awareness of the importance of sun care products, we see a trend towards higher SPF products in the market. Whether a consumer likes and applies a product multiple times is highly depending on the consumer experience and aesthetics. We saw the need of a highly efficient, easy-to-use polymer, which delivers market leading wear resistant without compromising on aesthetics.

2/ How is the performance of sunscreens formulated with this new ingredient?

Müller: Formulations using “Dermacryl X” at a usage level of 1% active solids delivers excellent SPF efficacy, while increasing water and rub-off resistance of the product. At the same time consumers experience literally no negative impact on the aesthetics due to the addition of this novel ingredient.

3/ And what about rub resistance?

Müller: Especially for high SPF sports formulation, rubbing off the product is of major concern. Due to movement there is the potential of physical wear of the skin which damages the dried down film on the skin surface, causing a reduced efficacy of the final product.

With “Dermacryl 79” we already deliver a market leading polymer for rub-off resistance in ethanol based continuous sprays. The new film-forming poly-mer widens the scope to the emulsion based systems, outperforming widely used benchmarks (such as PVP (and) PV/Eicosene Copolymer and PVP/Hexa-decene Copolymer.) 4/ For sunscreens water resistance is an important topic. How is the perfor-mance in respect?

Müller: When using the novel film-forming polymer in a SPF 50 formulation at 1% active solids, it delivered 80 min VWR SPF retention in a five panellist screener study under the FDA protocol. This has also been confirmed using ISO 24444:2010 method and COLIPA guidelines in an European chassis formulation.

5/ How can this ingredient be included in an existing sun screen formulation?

Müller: The novel ingredient is delivered as an easy-to-handle liquid emulsion polymer, which can be added to the formulation in the water phase up-front or post-added after emulsification in an oil in water system. It does not require any heat or neutralisation. Furthermore, it is compatible to the commonly used sun screen filters and due to its Acrylates Copolymer INCI can be used in global marketed products.

11 SUNSCREENS

EU Formulation SPF 50

Dermacryl X | Nouryon 2

Ingredient Weight %Phase A Deionized Water QS

Dissolvine® GL-47-S chelate 0.20%Glycerin 5.00%AMAZE™ XT polymer 0.15%Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.40%

Phase B Homosalate 6.00%Avobenzone 5.00%Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5.00%Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 3.00%C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 5.00%Carnauba Wax 0.50%Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.20%Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides 0.50%

Phase C Sodium Hydroxide 25% solution 0.60%Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer

9.00%

Phase D DERMACRYL® X 2.22%Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin 1.00%

EU SPF 50 BaseISO 24444:2010 and COLIPA guidelines

Dermacryl X | Nouryon 3

61,4 61,1

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

EU SPF 50 Base

Static

80 Min VWR

DERMACRYL X polymer provides excellent waterproofing under the ISO 24444:2010 and COLIPA guidelines

12 SUNSCREENS

0 Lincy Gurusamy 0 Melissa Fleckenstein

Clays go with the flowLincy Gurusamy and Melissa Fleckenstein of Elementis’s Personal Care business segment discuss the use of rheology and natural clay additives to address consumer trends in cosmetics and skin care

Innovative sensory experience continue to rank high among desired product attributes across all cosmetic categories. Consumers expect naturally-derived, high performance products that can deliver environmental protection, moisturisation and improved appearance. Equipped with a keen understanding of rheology, cosmetic formulators can create cutting-edge formulations that achieve both texture and product performance goals tied directly to the flow properties of a cosmetic.

Consumers increasingly expect the cosmetics and skin and

sun care products they buy to provide environmental protection, moisturising capabilities, improved appearance and convenience, as well as a silky-smooth feel and sensory experience when applied. In addition to this, makers of these products face pressure to maintain brand integrity while seeking approaches and processes that enable them to remain cost-competitive and compliant with international health, environmental and safety standards.

The challenge to personal care chemists and formulation experts is thus to use naturally derived, high performance additives to

deliver such key attributes as: ease of application; perfect pigment distribution and stability for more consistent colour quality; drying without transfer; instant brightening and illuminating effects; soft, silky, weightless textures; improved emulsion stability; anti-ageing; hydration; and sun-protection properties.

Importance of rheology

Cosmetic formulators can address trends in consumer attitudes and purchasing behaviours by using the science of rheology for the development of personal care products. Achieving texture and

First published by • SPECIALITY CHEMICALS MAGAZINE • FEBRUARY 2019

13 ADDITIVES

* Kimberly Burch, Kate Watermann, and Christina Schenatzky of the Elementis Personal Care Business Segment also contributed to this article.”Bentone” is a registered trade mark of Elementis

CONTACT Elementis Personal Care

elementis.communication@ elementis.com www.elementis.com

0 Effect of Bentone clay loadings on formulationproduct performance goals are tied directly to the rheology of a product. Effective rheology control using multi-functional, natural clay-based rheology modifiers offers positive impacts on both formulas and consumer perceptions.

Rheology is the science of flow. Every time a lotion is poured, a cream squeezed from a tube or a lipstick applied, rheology is involved. Even when products are at rest, it plays an important part in controlling stability and suspension. Understanding a formulation’s rheological needs enables cosmetic formulators to create the best possible products.

The rheology of a system is described in terms of viscosity measurements, characteristics of flow behaviour and the determination of material structure. Basic knowledge of these subjects is essential to product design and quality evaluation. The user experience will change by simply adjusting the rheology of a system. Perceptions of key performance attributes, such as moisturisation, skin protection and anti-ageing benefits, are tied to the rheology properties of a system.

Hydrophilic claysRheological additives can be broadly divided between aqueous-and non-aqueous-phase thickeners. Among the former are natural hydrophilic clays. These provide thixotropy – acharacteristic flow behaviour where viscosity reduces as shear is applied and recovers once it is removed, allowing the product to display a desired application property, as well as suspension and product stability – to personal care and cosmetic products.

Controlling the degree of thixotropy through these natural clays creates a system that thins

viscosity, without affecting its shear-thinning flow behaviour. This results in a light and elegant sensory feel for the consumer, while providing the formulator with effective rheological control.

The other pictures show the difference between formulations

0.5% Bentone

clay

magnesium aluminium

silicate

with 0.5% “Bentone” magnesium aluminium silicate clay and the same level of a competitor clay of the same type when it comes to two different aspects: long-term stability and the suspension of walnut scrubbing beads in an exfoliating facial scrub formula after centrifugation.

ConclusionHectorite and magnesium aluminium silicate clays provide rheology transformation for the creation of elegant cosmetic products, offering important functional benefits to meet demanding consumer expectations for superior aesthetics and formulation stability in a wide variety of cosmetic formulations. They are also approved by Ecocert Greenlife as compliant to the Cosmos standard for natural and organic cosmetics.

0.5% Competitive

No clay magnesiumaluminium

silicate

0.5% Bentone

clay magnesium aluminium

silicate

0 0.5% Bentone clay v. 0.5% competitive clay

upon the force of application and allows it to recover its lost viscosity once the application force is removed. This flow behaviour enhances the aesthetics of a cream on the skin, allows flawless application of nail polish and prevents antiperspirants from dripping.

Hydrophilic clays, specifically natural hectorite and magnesium aluminium silicate smectite-type clays, are highly effective in building viscosity andproviding suspension, due to their superior yield value. Yield can be considered as an internal resistance to flow under stress.

Viscosity can improve this internal resistance by reducing the rate of particle movement, but increased viscosity alone is not enough to maintain emulsion stability when it comes to the coalescence of droplets from the internal phase. This is what differentiates these clays from other rheology modifiers: they provide viscosity, stability and suspension, while creating elegant aesthetics in emulsion systems.

As shown in the top picture, when the loading of natural “Bentone” clay from Elementis is varied from 0.5% to 5%, the texture of the formula transforms from a sprayable milk lotion to a dewy lotion and finally into a rich butter cream, while providing similar moisturisation and skin protection. The addition of clay in the emulsion system increases

0.5% Competitive magnesium aluminium

silicate

14 ADDITIVES

68 sofwjournal | 145 | 03/19

training | DGK safety assessor

For the first time, the principle of safety assessment of cos-metic products was anchored in the European Cosmetics legislation through Directive 93/35/EEC (6th Amendment to the EC Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EEC). Prior to its placing on the market, manufacturers and distributors of cosmetic products were required to subject every product to a com-prehensive assessment of its safety for human health. In the meantime – after the entry into force of the EC Cosmetics Regulation [Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009] in January 2010 – the requirements concerning the safety assessment have been specified in more detail and concretised (in Annex I of the Regulation).

This legal requirement of the EU now serves as a model for many other regions, and there, too, the safety assessment is required by law. But even in countries where safety assess-ment is not legally required, manufacturers want to make sure to bring safe products to market for the consumers. These manufacturers are often also guided by the requirements of the EU, although the comprehensive documentation does not necessarily have to be carried out.

In the EU, the law requires that a safety assessor who is per-sonally responsible for the safety of a cosmetic product has to be appointed. This means that the product must meet all requirements of the EC Cosmetics Regulation in terms of its effects on human health in the event of normal or reason-ably foreseeable use of a cosmetic product. When preparing a safety assessment, first of all, the expert must review all existing basic requirements of cosmetic legislation (substance regulations, labelling provisions etc.). The more extensive as-sessment must be in conformity with Article 10 and Annex I of the EC Cosmetics Regulation. In this connection, the tox-icological profiles of all ingredients and the exposure condi-tions to be expected must be taken into due account.

For the elaboration of the safety assessment, the legislator has specified a certain group of individuals. Article 10 of the EC Cosmetics Regulation stipulates in Section 2:

“The cosmetic product safety assessment, as set out in Part B of Annex I, shall be carried out by a person in possession of a diploma or other evidence of formal qualifications award-ed on completion of a university course of theoretical and practical study in pharmacy, toxicology, medicine or a similar discipline, or a course recognised as equivalent by a member state.“

Such an education is, however, not sufficient as a rule. For the competent assessment of the safety of cosmetic prod-ucts, interdisciplinary knowledge is required, in particular in the fields of chemistry, toxicology, dermatology and (cos-metics) law so that the corresponding person must engage in specific continuing education in these fields. Together with IKW and university experts, DGK developed continuing education courses for safety assessors for the first time in 1998. The structure and the content of the courses were extensively revised and updated in 2006. More emphasis was placed on their orientation towards practice. The lec-turers for these courses are highly qualified experts from the respective disciplines from universities, public authori-ties and industry, including, for instance, several members of the Cosmetics Commission of the Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR) or the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety).

The cycle of courses regularly offered consists of seven in-dividual courses of two days in each case. At the end of each course, the learning contents are checked by a written test (participation on a voluntary basis). In this connection 18 of 24 questions must be answered correctly. A corresponding certificate for the attended course is then issued. After suc-cessful participation in all 7 individual courses, overall partici-pation is confirmed.

The series is divided into the following courses which can be attended in any order

• Exposure of Cosmetic Products/Percutaneous Penetration

• Topical Safety, Immunology and Sensitisation

• Metabolism, kinetics and structure-activity relationships

• Carcinogenesis and Mutagenesis

• General and Systemic Toxicology

• Reproduction Toxicology

• Microbiological Safety of Cosmetic Products

In addition, DGK and IKW offer two to three seminars for safety assessors per year. The morning session features lectures on latest developments or specific topics in the area of safety assessment. In the afternoon session, par-ticipants have the opportunity to work together in small groups on practical exercises which have been provided ahead of the meeting. Meanwhile, such seminars are also offered in other countries like Poland, India, South Africa etc..

A Training Concept for Safety Assessors of Cosmetic ProductsJ. Burfeindt, B. Huber

content

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In the beginning, courses and seminars have been pro-vided in German language only. For some years now, they have also been available in English. From spring 2019, the courses will also be available as webinars. It is, of course, possible to mix any number of face-to-face trainings and webinars to get the certificate of successful participation in the full 7-course cycle. Trainings and webinars will be fully equivalent in this respect.

Safety assessors who fulfil the minimum education re-quirements in Article 10 of the EC Cosmetics Regula-tion, who have successfully completed the 7-course se-ries of trainings, and who have participated in at least three seminars for safety assessors in the past three years, may apply for the optional certificate “DGK Safe-ty Assessor”.

This concept is unique in this form worldwide. So far, al-most 200 people have completed all 7 courses, and the certificate “DGK safety assessor” has already been awarded more than 100 times.

For upcoming courses and seminars please consult www.safetyassessor.info:https://www.safetyassessor.info/trainings.htmlhttps://www.safetyassessor.info/seminars.html

Publisher

Dr. Jens BurfeindtBirgit Huber

The German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW)Mainzer Landstraße 55 | 60329 Frankfurt am Main | Germany

save the date

www.sepawa-congress.com

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In the beginning, courses and seminars have been pro-vided in German language only. For some years now, they have also been available in English. From spring 2019, the courses will also be available as webinars. It is, of course, possible to mix any number of face-to-face trainings and webinars to get the certificate of successful participation in the full 7-course cycle. Trainings and webinars will be fully equivalent in this respect.

Safety assessors who fulfil the minimum education re-quirements in Article 10 of the EC Cosmetics Regula-tion, who have successfully completed the 7-course se-ries of trainings, and who have participated in at least three seminars for safety assessors in the past three years, may apply for the optional certificate “DGK Safe-ty Assessor”.

This concept is unique in this form worldwide. So far, al-most 200 people have completed all 7 courses, and the certificate “DGK safety assessor” has already been awarded more than 100 times.

For upcoming courses and seminars please consult www.safetyassessor.info:https://www.safetyassessor.info/trainings.htmlhttps://www.safetyassessor.info/seminars.html

Publisher

Dr. Jens BurfeindtBirgit Huber

The German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association (IKW)Mainzer Landstraße 55 | 60329 Frankfurt am Main | Germany

save the date

www.sepawa-congress.com

16 SAFETY ASSESSOR

brings together suppliers from every point of the production chain shows new product ideas gives brands and manufacturers of cosmetics and personal and products exclusive access to all services

FOR THE COSMETIC AND DETERGENT INDUSTRY 7 – 8 OCTOBER 2020 WARSAW | POLAND

www.hpci-events.com

Home and Personal Care Ingredients ExhibitionCentral & Eastern Europe

Vincentz Network GmbH & Co. KG | P.O. Box 6247 | 30062 Hannover

HPCI_CEE2020_ad_A5H_open.indd 1 13.02.2020 14:25

ALBAN MULLERSOLUTIONS

NATURALCOSMETIC

L’Expert du NaturelSince 40 years

Alban Muller’s environmental-friendly andexclusive processing technology extractsactive molecules from local plants withoutdamaging them.

high-integrity, biocompatible extracts safe and efficient natural cosmetics

17 ALBAN MULLER

GREENINNOVATION

Our novelties

Organic plant extracts

Plant dyes for Emulsions & Make Up

Skin Hydration Booster

18 ALBAN MULLER

Cosmetic products with INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate

Ongoing interest

Hyaluronic acid Cosmetic Market

Efficacy /Science/ skin-identical molecule Consumer confidenceAlternative to injections of HA Biotechnology production process GMO BacillusEnergy-consumingprocess

> Need for a new and better solution

GlucohyamiNatural & innovativealternativeInnovative skin-identical booster of hyaluronic acid synthesis

Plant-based alternative to existing Glucosamine• 100% local• Chicory produces glucosamine, the molecule

essential for hyaluronic acid synthesis• Innovative & eco-responsible process• Mode of action respecting skin natural mechanism

New active

Glucohyami:An original & renewable source

19 ALBAN MULLER

Glucohyami:An innovative eco-responsible process

Glucohyami:An innovative booster of hyaluronic acid synthesis

On fibroblastsEquivalent efficiency at a dose 3 times lower

Significant increase of hyaluronic acid synthesis from 0.2% to 0.4% of Glucohyami in a finished product

Glucohyami:Slow ageing active

Clinical evaluation : Protocol

20 ALBAN MULLER

Glucohyami:Slow ageing activeResult: Firmess effect

(1)Instrumental assessment(Cutometer®)

Firmer skin observed in 95% ofthe volunteers (versus 50% forplacebo)

Glucohyami is significantly more efficient to strengthen the skinversus placebo

Glucohyami:Slow ageing activeResult: Anti-wrinkle effect

(1)Instrumental assessment (3DPrimos®)

Glucohyami has an anti wrinkle effect

Significant decrease for eachparameters

21 ALBAN MULLER

Glucohyami:Slow ageing activeGlobal anti-ageing effect

(2) Clinical scores bydermatologist

Glucohyami:Slow ageing active

Glucohyami has a smoothing effect higher thanplacebo

Result: Smooth effect

(1)Instrumental assessment (3DPrimos®)

22 ALBAN MULLER

Glucohyami:Slow ageing activeSubjective evaluation

The cream with Glucohyami is much appreciate by the volunteers for all criteriaevaluated

Glucohyami:Slow ageing activeConclusion

Restores skin firmnessReduces wrinkles, fine lines and eye ptosis Replumps the skin

23 ALBAN MULLER

The ideal plant-based active ingrediant for natural skincare of high-performance

GlucohyamiSlow ageing active

Cosmetic use

• Anti-wrinkle, replumping cream• Hydrating skincare• Anti-ageing products• Recommended usage dose:- 0.2% -0.4 %• INCI:- Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Root Extract (and) Maltodextrin

Glucohyami:The new active to keep the skin’sbeauty

ECOVALORIZEDINGREDIENT

24 ALBAN MULLER

Sustainable & Eco-responsible commitments:40 years of sustainable commitments and expertise in natural & eco-responsible products

• Environmental Prevention Policy• Environmental Management System (EMS)• Reduction of greenhouse gas and energy (electricity, heating,

fuels)• Saving water resources• Sorting of waste, recycling, ecovalorisation• Eco conception• Product life cycle• Protection of biodiversity, water gardens

Sustainability is a big trend > a key selling point!

ENVIRONMENTAL DASHBOARD

SLIGHT INCREASE

- increased production => increasedcleaning cycles.

- increased sanitations of purifiedwater loop in summer to preventfrom microbial contaminations

- In 2019 Investment in a coolingloop.

STABLE

Several actions in 2017/2018 have contributed to a reduction of ourelectricity consumption : relamping, change of Skydomes…

STABLE STABLE

2017-2018

WATER

+ 11 %+ 11 %

ELECTRICITY

- 7 %- 7 %

GAS

+ 2 %+ 2 %

WASTE

- 2 %- 2 %

But 0% effluent discharge in the environment for more than 300

days !

13155

9980

88289760

1412

9 10

2015 2016 2017 2018

Annual consumption (m3) Litres of water used per kg of manufactured product

2 953 158

3347038

2892417

3 112 018

3,06

4,03

2,98 3,05

2015 2016 2017 2018

Annual consumption (kWh) kWh per kg of manufactured product

-25%

1 662 222

1626400

1705936

1 661 396

1,72

1,961,76

1,63

2015 2016 2017 2018

Annual consumption (kWh) kWh per kg of manufactured product

87%89%

92%90%

2015 2016 2017 2018

Reutilisation rate (%)

-3%

-25%

-10%

Consumption 2016-2017

Overall reduction of consumption

Waste treatment distribution

25 ALBAN MULLER

A unique initiative to restore wetlands in industrial zones

Development of these water gardens contributes to the landscaping of the production site and the improvement of the livingenvironment and the well-being of the employees.

• Introduction of specific plants: reeds, buttercups, wild irises, water lilies, bamboos....

• Habitats for animal species: treefrogs, ducks, partridges, herons, hares ...

• Windbreak effect: hedgerows composed of shrubs to provide shelter and cover for small wildlife.

Biodiversity restorationWater and biodiversity gardens

26 ALBAN MULLER

U p d a t i n g P r e s e r v a t i o n c o n c e p t s : b a l a n c i n g c o n s u m e r s , m a r k e t i n g & f o r m u l a t o r c h a l l e n g e s

2 5 t h S e p t e m b e r 2 0 1 9 , H P C I W a r s z a w a

Sharon Laboratories Facts & Figures

• 2 Manufacturing sites

• 2 Microbiology laboratories

• 100+ employees

• Over 100 products on our growing portfolio

• 4 Patent applications

• Exhibitor in all main trade shows worldwide

• Major supplier to multinational cosmetic companies worldwide

• Supplier premium, multi-national and Pharmaceutical companies, meets IPEC –

PQG standard

Founded in 1977

27 SHARON LABORATORIES

Quality Standards

• As leading player in global market, we are committed to keep and deliver highest quality standards applied by all departments involved in the development, production and logistics of our products.

• Quality certificates : ISO 9001, ISO 14001, ISO 18001, EHS Policy, and more.

• Sharon meets local authorities requirements, and being audit by them :

Ministry of Health

The Standard Institution

Ministry of Environment.

• Customer Audits: we are audited by our global customers according to international standards, such as IPEC-PQG, and others.

Our Mission:

Innovation that matters

Building Links, Providing solutions Cosmetics suppliers, Consumer, Regulatory, Science, Nature

28 SHARON LABORATORIES

The Arena

Formulator | Marketing | ManufactureConsumer | Regulation | Raw Material Supplier

And this is what we hear

29 SHARON LABORATORIES

Science • Water solubility

• Efficacy enhancement

• Flexibility /Solvent free

Emotion•FREE: Preservative Free

Free-of

•Consumer appealNatural

Green

Sharomix™ AMPLIFY

Where LESS is MORE

Sharomix™ AMPLIFY

30 SHARON LABORATORIES

Cationic surfactants

Primary uses: surfactants, conditioning

Some have antimicrobial activity,

Few are listed on Annex V

But…

at what level of use?

Impact on formula performances ?

…and so the screening process begins!

Synonyms: PQ-80

CAS 1309865-14-2

Naturally derived from polymerized alkyl

polyglucosides

Polyquaternium - 80Didecyldimoniumchloride

Synonyms: Quaternium-12, DDAC

CAS 7173-51-5

Commonly used in the personal care industry

Mostly in hair care – rinse-off cleansing and conditioning

Broad-spectrum performance attributes, formulation flexibility

Cationic surfactants

31 SHARON LABORATORIES

Amplify Gen II

Amplify

Sharomix™ AM20 Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Didecyldimonium Chloride

Sharomix™ AM24 Methylpropanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyquaternium-80, Didecyldimonium Chloride

Sharomix™ AM25 Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, DidecyldimoniumChloride

Platform for high efficacy preservative systems

Broad spectrum & Non pH dependent

S. aureusATCC 6538

E. coliATCC 8739

P. aeruginosaATCC 9027

A. nigerATCC 16404

C. aglbicansATCC 10231

Sharomix™ AM20

Phenoxyethanol, EHG & Didecyldimonium Chloride

200 100 200 100 100

Phenoxyethanol+EHG blend 4000 5000 4000 3000 4000

* MIC (minimum inhibition concertation) in ppm

MIC Values Comparison

32 SHARON LABORATORIES

S. aureusATCC 6538

E. coliATCC 8739

P. aeruginosaATCC 9027

A. nigerATCC 16404

C. aglbicansATCC 10231

Sharomix™ AM20

Phenoxyethanol, EHG & Didecyldimonium Chloride

200 100 200 100 100

Phenoxyethanol+EHG blend 4000 5000 4000 3000 4000

PHENOCHEM NIBINCI : Phenoxyethanol &

Methylparaben & Ethylparaben&Propylparaben & Butylparaben

1500 2000 2000 1750 1000

* MIC (minimum inhibition concertation) in ppm

MIC Values Comparison

MIC Results Sharomix™ Amplify

S. aureus E. coli P. aeruginosa A. niger C. albicans

Sharomix™AM20 200 100 200 100 100

Sharomix™AM24 800 <400 2000 1600 <400

Sharomix™AM25 <500 <500 <500 <300 <300

* MIC (minimum inhibition concertation) in ppm

Phenoxyethanol+EHG blend 4000 5000 4000 3000 4000

33 SHARON LABORATORIES

Sharomix™ Amplify Organic Acids solutionTailored solutions for wet wipes and low-pH products

MIC comparison between popular preservative solutions and Sharomix™ Amplify 720

Product S. aureus E. coli P. aeruginosa A. niger C. albicans

Sharomix™ 713Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, water

4000 25000 13000 7000 4000

Sharomix™ AM720 <200 <200 300 <200 <200

Sharomix™ AM 720 INCI: Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Didecyldimonium Chloride, Water

Phenoxyethanol+EHG blend 4000 5000 4000 3000 4000

* MIC (minimum inhibition concertation) in ppm

Safety & Regulatory

Safety first! Clinical dermatological studySharomix™ Amplify was evaluated for acute cutaneous tolerance of

a cosmetic product on adult subjects

Method: single patch test | Conclusion: non irritant

Global Regulatory StatusAllowed for use in cosmetic products

Clinical study conducted by -

34 SHARON LABORATORIES

• Broad spectrum

• Globally approved

• Low Level of use

• Cost effective

• Heat stable

• Easy to formulate

• Versatile platform

Features & Benefits

• Parabens

• Formaldehyde

• CIT / MIT

• Halogens

• Phenoxyethanol free option

Free Of

Product Applications

35 SHARON LABORATORIES

SharoSENSE™ Plus

Maltol introduction• Naturally occurring organic compound

• Found in several plants, e.g. Ketsura trees

• Used primarily in the food industry

• Used as an intermediate in pharmaceuticals

• Used in personal care as a flavoring agent

• White crystalline powder

• Freely soluble in water

• EWG score of 1

• Regulatory - food additive (E636), FEMA GRAS, CosIng

https://www.foodsweeteners.com/applications-and-uses-of-maltol/

36 SHARON LABORATORIES

Mechanism of Action – Maltol

A versatile mode of activity

Metal chelating agentAnti-oxidantAntimicrobial sensitizer

Maltol – Antimicrobial Efficacy

MIC comparison of maltol vs. benchmark

37 SHARON LABORATORIES

Synonyms: PQ-80

CAS 1309865-14-2

Naturally derived from polymerized alkyl

polyglucosides

Polyquaternium - 80Didecyldimoniumchloride

Synonyms: Quaternium-12, DDAC

CAS 7173-51-5

Commonly used in the personal care industry

Mostly in hair care – rinse-off cleansing and conditioning

Broad-spectrum performance attributes, formulation flexibility

Cationic surfactants

MIC Results SharoSENSE™ Plus

38 SHARON LABORATORIES

• Low level of use

• Flexibility

• Consumer appeal

• Broad Spectrum, High efficacy

• Better solubility

• performance at high pH

Features

• Safety first

Benefits

• Improved supply chain

• improved formula stability

• Natural-Synthetic, Preservative Free

Product ApplicationsProduct Applications

39 SHARON LABORATORIES

40 SHARON LABORATORIES

Sharon Natural Line

Thank you!

41 SHARON LABORATORIES

Active Beauty

"Natural beauty with “The 3D Y-zone reshaper & moodbooster” 25 September 2019

1

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan

Stress-free ageing Well-being

Mindfulness =

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 2

From anti-ageing to ageing well

42 GIVAUDAN

PAST PRESENT

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 3

50+ is not old anymore Women over 50 changed in the last 30 years. It’s time to change perspective

“It’s not about hiding my age anymore but finding solutions to be the best version of myself.”

For example ; 50+ can see they are ageing but do not see it as a negative thing anymore. They are looking for products that help them stay as youthful as possible in their mind and bodies (1)

Part of a holistic wellbeing, skincare is used to feel more confident and look healthier (2)

Women are interested in trying new skincare products – they are beauty and tech savvy (3)

(1) Euromonitor 2019, (2) Mintel 2018, (3) By bloggers Anita Willemars,

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 4

Wellbeing - ageing well The new goal of 30+; 40+; 50+

43 GIVAUDAN

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Our creations

5 Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 6

Agefinity™- The 3D Y-zone reshaper

1

44 GIVAUDAN

‘The first feminine feature that goes, with advancing age, is the neck.’

Gloria SWANSON – Silent films american actress

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 7

The Y-zone (face and neck) Requires specific care with age

• Skin undergoes progressive structural and functional decline.

• Epidermis decreases in thickness by more than 6% every decade (especially lower cheeks, neck and upper part of the chest).1

• Epidermal turnover is reduced.2

• Active melanocytes are reduced from -8 to -20% every decade leading to uneven skin tones.3

• Loss of molecular integrity of the reticular dermis leading to rigidity, decrease of torsion extensibility and elasticity

1- Waller JM, Maibech HI – Age and skin structure and function, a quantitative approach(I) blood flow, pH, thickness, and ultrasound echogenicity. Skin res Technol 2005, 11:221 2-Suter-Widmer J, Elsner P: Age and irritation. The irritant contact dermatitis syndrome. 1996 257:265 3- Phillips Tkanj L Clinical manifestation of skin ageing. The effect of skin ageing in oral mucosa and skin. 1994. 25-40.

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 8

45 GIVAUDAN

The neck is even more under pressure with new technologies

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 9

Tech neck Dermatologists and other skin care experts believe

that constantly looking downward at our smartphones could lead to premature skin sagging and wrinkles.

Agefinity™ Concept of the product

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 10

46 GIVAUDAN

Mannose-6-Phosphate Recharge your skin with energy

• We use a natural source of Mannose and activate it into its high energy equivalent Mannose 6P to deliver a clean beauty active ingredient.

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 11

Mannose + Phosphate Mannose 6P (plant)

enzyme

In human cells:

Mannose 6P Fructose 6P Energy

• Mannose 6P is a human metabolite involved in the production of Fructose 6P, which is itself involved in glycolysis and mitochondrial activity.

Mode of action Agefinity™

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 12

To replenish the energy of the cells, Active Beauty has crafted Agefinity™, a Mannose-6-Phosphate complex, which will:

• Reprogram mitochondrial energy metabolism in older cells.

• Promote skin matrix restructuring.

• Reinforce Dermo Epithelial Junction (DEJ).

• Reorganise skin matrix similar to younger skin.

• Significantly reduce visible age spots.

• Visibly reduce crows feet wrinkles.

• Reduce neck wrinkles to remodel the Y-shape of the face.

47 GIVAUDAN

A unique technique to analyze the reticular dermis Atomic Force Microscopy

• Scan the surface of skin cells. A sharp tip identifies and follow the relief of the support during the scanning and gives information about biomechanical properties and topography of the studied support.

Protocol:

Skin explants from 2 donors (30 and 65 year old Caucasian women) were topically treated every day with 4% of Agefinity™ for 8 days or left untreated. The organisation of collagen fibres into young and mature explants was evaluated using Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) and Small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS).

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 13

Young skin (30yo) Untreated – D8

Matured skin (65yo) Untreated – D8

Matureed skin (65yo) 4% Agefinity™ – D8

Clinical efficacy

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 14

48 GIVAUDAN

Visible reduction of age spots

Results:

After 28 days, Agefinity™ significantly reduces the number of visible ageing spots compared to placebo, with a reduction down to 2.1 times more efficient.

The effect is still visible and significant versus placebo after 56 days.

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 15

-5,0%

-4,0%

-3,0%

-2,0%

-1,0%

0,0%

D28 D56

Placebo Agefinity™ 4%

* p<0.05 Student’s t-test vs placebo ** p<0.05 Student’s t-test vs D0

∆D0Dx (%)

Decrease of visible spots number

x2.1*

**

*

Improvement of collagen organisation

Results:

Agefinity™ significantly stimulates relative collagen density compared to placebo with an increase up to 3.8 folds.

The collagen is better organised after only 1 month.

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 16

x3.8* x2.2* **

***

0,0%

2,0%

4,0%

D28 D56

∆D0Dx (%)

Placebo Agefinity™ 4%

* p<0.05 Student’s t-test vs Placebo ** p<0.01 Student’s t-test vs D0

*** p<0.001 Student’s t-test vs D0

Increase in collagen density

Low collagen density High collagen density

Plac

ebo

Age

finity

™ 4

%

** ***

49 GIVAUDAN

-6%

-4%

-2%

0%

2%

4%

6%

8%

10%D28 D56

∆D0Dx (%)

Reduction of crow's feet wrinkles

Placebo Agefinity™ 4%

Significant reduction of crow’s feet wrinkle number

Results: Agefinity™ at 4% induces a significant reduction of crow’s feet wrinkle number, down to -11.5%. A visual improvement of the bottom part of the face (jowls) can also be noticed on the captured pictures.

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 17

-1.6%

-11.5%*

** ***

* p<0.05 Wilcoxon test vs placebo

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Crows’ feet evaluation with Agefinity™ at 4% (Vol GP038, 56 yo) Anti-wrinkle efficacy

18 Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan

D0 D56

50 GIVAUDAN

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Crows’ feet evaluation with Agefinity™ at 4% (Vol GP180, 66 yo) Anti-wrinkle efficacy

19 Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan

D0 D56

Y-zone reshaper (clinical)

Protocol n°2:

20 women (average age 56 years old)

Neck wrinkles

Twice a day

56 days

Full face: with a formula containing 4% Agefinity™ or a Placebo.

Neck wrinkles properties (volume and depth) were evaluated on the neck area using AEVA HE® at D0, D28 and D56.

Panelists were also asked to assess both products efficacy on their neck after 56 days of use.

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 20

51 GIVAUDAN

Reduction of the neck wrinkles volume and depth

Results:

Agefinity™ induces a significant reduction of the neck wrinkles volume and depth, respectively by up to -32.5% and -8.3% versus placebo.

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 21

-30

-20

-10

0

10

∆D0Dx (%)

Placebo Agefinity™

Neck wrinkles volume Neck wrinkles depth

Wilcoxon test vs D0, Mann Whitney test vs placebo: * p<0.05 ** p<0.01 *** p<0.001

Reduction of neck wrinkles

D28 D56 D28 D56

-32.5%*** -23.2%*

-8.2%** -8.3%*

** **

*** ***

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Reduction of neck wrinkles with Agefinity™ 4% vs placebo (Placebo: Vol 008, 46 yo, Agefinity™: Vol 273, 55 yo)

3D Y reshaper

22 Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan

D0

D28

D56

D0

D28

D56

Placebo Agefinity™ 4%

52 GIVAUDAN

Take home messages Agefinity™ uniqueness

• Pure and clean source of biomimetic energy for your skin

• Relaunch mitochondrial activity, even in older cells Recharge your skin batteries!

• Restructure reticular dermis “younger” collagen network (~35 years gain in 8 days observed under AFM)

• Reactivate skin detoxification Disappearance of age spots

• Works on both face and neck visible reduction of wrinkles, including “tech” wrinkles

• Patent-pending

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 23

Main applications

1. Anti-ageing serums or creams

2. Anti-ageing products for the reduction of deep wrinkles

3. Intensive treatments for facial rejuvenation

4. Nasolabial anti-wrinkles products

5. Anti tech-neck products

6. Anti-crow’s feet products

7. Anti-age spots serums

8. Skincare for mature skin

9. Dermocosmetics

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 24

53 GIVAUDAN

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 25

Sensityl™ - The moodbooster

2

‘Happiness is the secret to all beauty. There is no beauty without happiness.’

Christian Dior

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 26

54 GIVAUDAN

The brain-skin axis Happy skin, happy mood?

• Skin and brain share the same origin and there is indeed an entire branch of the peripheral nervous system in the dermis and epidermis.

• This constant communication is a legacy of our adaptation1. The skin interfaces with the brain, as an external sensor for all the stress that we receive.

• This brain-skin axis2 enables an efficient management of our reaction to stress and all of the consequences of our mood and emotions, specifically in continuous skin stress conditions.

1 D. B. Yarosh et al. 2016 2 See this dedicated lab in Manchester Univ: http://research.bmh.manchester.ac.uk/dermatology/research/brainskin/

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 27

The role of cosmetics Can we bring happiness through the use of skincare?

• So far, the emotional dimension of cosmetics was mostly driven by:

The fragrance,

The texture,

The visual attractiveness.

• Would it be possible to go further, and impact consumers’ mood and emotions through a biological action on their skin?

• How would it be possible to qualify and characterise this action scientifically?

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 28

55 GIVAUDAN

Sensityl™ Concept of the product

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 29

Sensityl™ Crafted from the Sea

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan

• Sensityl™ is a natural extract obtained from the most active compounds of Phaeodactylum tricornutum, thanks to a bioguided evaluation combined with a metabolic profiling.

• Coming from the dominant class of marine phytoplankton (diatoms), this microalgae is found in coastal marine or brackish waters in temperate zones.

• This algae is grown in our Marine Biotechnology Centre of Excellence (Ile Grande, Britany, France) using only sunlight and seawater, and it captures atmospheric CO2, isn’t it great for our planet?!

56 GIVAUDAN

Mode of action Sensityl™

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 31

Acting through microbiome, epigenetic & genetic regulation, Sensityl™ takes control over the whole inflammation process, and acts on:

• rebalancing and protecting skin microbiota,

• reducing immune cells recruitment,

• reducing pro-inflammatory mediators (IL-8),

• decreasing the pain sensation (TRPV1),

• increasing the anti-microbial defences of the skin.

Sensityl™ reduces redness and soothes the skin, but even more, it helps to enhance consumers' mood.

From microbiota to mood & emotions

Clinical studies

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 32

57 GIVAUDAN

Microbiota diversity protection

Results:

Sensityl™ protects the diversity of skin microbiota, a key factor which can be linked to various inflammatory skin conditions when impacted1.

No significant modification of diversity has been observed at D28, while the placebo has decreased it drastically.

1 Dreno et al. 2017

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 33

-14,0%

-12,0%

-10,0%

-8,0%

-6,0%

-4,0%

-2,0%

0,0%Placebo Sensityl™ 3%

Microbiota diversity protection

-6.5%

-12.8% *

Wilcoxon test: * p<0.05

Shannon index DD0D28 (%)

-40%

-30%

-20%

-10%

0%

10%

20%Propionibacterium Corynebacterium

Placebo Sensityl™ 3%

Microbiota composition improvement

Results:

Additionally Sensityl™ improves the microbiota composition, by:

• Stabilising Propionibacterium population (now known as Cutibacterium)

• Significantly decreasing Corynebacterium population,

both of which having been linked to proinflammatory features2.

2 SanMiguel et Grice 2015, Ridaura et al. 2018, Ray et al. 2015, Ma et al. 2018

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 34

+15.5% #

Microbiota composition improvement

+1.0%

-25.2% #

-32.4% **

Wilcoxon test: # p<0.1, ** p<0.01

Genus relative abundance DD0D28 (%)

58 GIVAUDAN

Skin irritation reduction in just 7 days

Results:

Sensityl™ at 3% significantly reduces:

the skin irritation,

down to -18% versus placebo,

with a visible effect on 100% of the volunteers.

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 35

0

10

20

30

40

Control Placebo Sensityl™ 3%

-18%*

Wilcoxon test: * p<0.05, ** p<0.01

*

**

*

Skin irritation reduction

a* parameter DD0D7 (%)

Improvement of cutaneous reactivity

Results:

A significant increase in capsaicin concentration is observed at D28 for both placebo and Sensityl™.

Sensityl™ at 3% enables a significant improvement of the skin reactivity, up to 2 times more efficiently than the placebo.

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 36

0

20

40

60

Placebo Sensityl™ 3%

x2.0#

+28% *

+55% ***

Cutaneous reactivity improvement (reactivity threshold to capsaicin)

Mann Whitney test: # p<0.1, * p<0.05, *** p<0.001

Cutaneous reactivity DD0D28 (%)

59 GIVAUDAN

(non-verbal clinical studies)

A soothed skin for a better mood…

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 37

1 - Mood Portraits®: a non-verbal method

Protocol:

Mood Portraits® is a unique non-verbal neuroscience method, developed by Givaudan1, using pictures to measure consumers’ mood and emotional responses to various stimuli.

• This test follows our microbiome clinical study on 41 volunteers during 28 days.

• All participants completed the method on Day 0 (baseline) and Day 28 (post usage).

INCI AQUA/WATER, CETYL ALCOHOL, GLYCERYL STEARATE, PEG-75 STEARATE, CETETH-20, STEARETH-20 ISODECYL NEOPENTANOATE, ± PHY TRICORNUTUM EXTRACT, PHENOXYETHANOL, METHYL PARABEN, PROPYL PARABEN, ETHYL PARABEN, DIMETHICONE, FRAGRANCE, HEXYL CINNAMAL, BUTYLPHENYL METHYLPROPIONAL, CITRONELLOL, ALPHA ISOMETHYL IONONE, HYDROXYISOHEXYL 3-CYCLOHEXENE CARBOXALDEHYDE

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 38

1 A. Churchill et al., 2010

60 GIVAUDAN

Description 1 - Mood Portraits®: a non-verbal method

During this study they were asked to answer one question at D0 and D28, by selecting pictures randomly displayed on a wall in front of them:

“Thinking about your skin, how do you feel about it now? Please pick all the pictures that reflect your feelings.”

Based on their pictures selection, our neuroscience experts are able to analyse the main moods expressed by the participants.

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 39

1 - Mood Portraits®: a non-verbal method Pictures significantly selected by the panel

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 40

Baseline @D0 Sensityl™ @D28

61 GIVAUDAN

2 - Emotion Decoding System®: Evaluating the unconscious emotions

An expert PhD in non-verbal communication used a unique grid to analyse over 200 non verbal reactions (facial reactions, postures, gestures, voice), and remove all verbalization barriers1.

This test follows our microbiome clinical study and was carried out on 40 volonteers during 28 days, and was used to measure the impact of a soothing facial cream containing Sensityl™ or a placebo on consumers’ emotions.

1 Work of Marina CAVASSILAS, PhD in Linguistic, based on work from US psychologist P. Ekman, demonstrating that emotions drive non-verbal reactions, in a universal way.

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 41

2 - Emotion Decoding System®

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 42

62 GIVAUDAN

Take home messages Sensityl™ uniqueness

• Natural & marine origin, sustainable, great for the planet! Clean & Natural Beauty

• An holistic action on sensitive skin Sought-after by 66% of consumers!

• Regulate inflammation through epigenetic & genetic pathways, while protecting & rebalancing microbiota!

• For the very first time, two scientific Neuroscience tests with astonishing results Huge benefits on consumers mood!

• Good for the planet, Good for me, Good for the others!

• Patent-pending

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 43

Main applications

1. Every day cream for sensitive skin

2. Relaxing night cream

3. Feel-good serum

4. Healthy glow lotion

5. Cold cream

6. After-sun

7. Shampoo / Scalp care lotion

8. Post-epilatory / Post-peeling cream

9. After-shave balm

Confidential and proprietary business information of Givaudan 44

63 GIVAUDAN

Booth #221

Clémentine Calvet-Arnoult 25/09/2019Business Unit Manager

64 MINASOLVE

Minasolve® is a brand of the Minafin® Group

- 4 EU + 2 US sites- 868 employees worldwide- 80+ R&D scientists - Net Sales EUR 192M

Beuvry-la-Forêt, FRA

Dunkerque, FRA Louvain-la-Neuve, BE

Leuna, DEU

DEUBELFRA

Memphis (TN), USA

Pittsburg (PA), USA

USA

Key Figures 2018

Minafin® Group – Sites overviewBEUVRY-LA-FORÊT

FRADUNKERQUE

FRALOUVAIN-LA-NEUVE

BELLEUNA

DEUMEMPHIS, TN

USAPITTSBURGH, PA

USA

– R&D

– Scale-up

– APIs

– Custom manufacturing

– Key intermediates

– Starting materials

– Building blocks

– Cosmetic ingredients

– Regulatory affairs

– inspected

– R&D

– Scale-up

– Generic APIs > 200 MT

– Custom manufacturing

– Key intermediates

– Starting materials

– Building blocks

– Regulatory affairs

– inspected

– R&D

– Scale-up

– Custom manufacturing

– Green, cost-efficient chemical manufacturing

– Furfural derivatives

– Pentanediol green

– Renewable resources

– Hydrogenation

– Distillation

– certified

– Scale-up partner

– Multi-purpose facility

– High pressure reactions

– Hydrogenation

– Special chemicals

– Fine chemicals

– Niche polymers

– Renewable resources

– R&D

– Scale-up

– APIs

– Custom manufacturing

– Key intermediates

– Starting materials

– Building blocks

– Toxic and Hazardous chemistry

– Regulatory affairs

inspected

– R&D

– Scale-up

– HAPIs OEB class 5

– Controlled substances

– Custom manufacturing

– Key intermediates

– Starting materials

– Building blocks

– Regulatory affairs

– inspected

→ Global Human Chemistry

65 MINASOLVE

Minasolve – Personal Care Solutions provider Our Unique Value Proposal:Proposal

Green Proposal:

Green SolvingSolving Attitude

Origin is green We bring innovation Constant focus on customer

Our product range:

Personal Care formulation Protection

Source: Mélodie DEBACKER, « Conservation des produits cosmetiques : evolutions, risques associes et strategies d’optimisation » Université de Lille 2, Faculté de Pharmacie de Lille, 2018.

66 MINASOLVE

Personal Care formulation Protection

INCIBEAUTYCOSMETHICSCLEAN BEAUTYYUKAQUELCOSMETIC…

→ Need to formulate conscious products: Slow Beauty conceptSustainable for the environmentSafe for HumanMinimum wasteNo competition with food and feed

New tools available to figure out chemicalsubstances in the INCI list

Consumer awareness is higher than ever

Sustainability – a worldwide trendCosmetics launched with claims “Ethical / Environmentally Friendly”

EuropeAsia PacificNorth AmericaSouth AmericaMiddle East & Africa

“Green” cosmetic products are demanded by the consumers,

and hence offered by all key cosmetic players.

67 MINASOLVE

Sustainability – Does it matter for us ?!

We are all consumers ...… and if we consume a

non-renewable resource today …,

It’s about our children !

… it will not be available for the next generation tomorrow !

A-Leen 5 - Pioneer of bio-based Pentylene GlycolMultifunctional Ingredient for Sustainable Self-preserved Cosmetics

o Natural index (ISO 16128-2) > 0.9o 100 % Renewable carbono Halal complianto Vegan complianto Natrue compliant

Pharma

Rubber

Cosmetics

Food

FURFURAL APPLICATIONS

« Pennakem, our US sister company is active in renewable chemistry since the 1940’s »

Green Chemistry

Back Integrated Raw Materials – Full Traceability

SUGAR CANE BAGASSERESPONSIBLE SOURCING

A-Leen 5FurfurylAlcoholPurified

Agro

FURFURAL COSMETIC GRADE

ODOURLESS

Preservative booster

Bio-degradable

Easy to use

Emolient

Moisturizer

Extraction solvent

Solubilizer

68 MINASOLVE

Formula Protection Body / Scalp Odor Body / Scalp Disorders

Minimum Inhibitory Concentrations (MIC) of A-Leen 5

A-Leen 5A set of properties & efficiency data vs petro version:

Corneometry: Purity:

Challenge test:MIC:

A-Leen 5

→ Pentylene Glycol of vegetable origin→ typical purity: > 99.9 %→ 100% odorless

Pentiol

→ Pentylene Glycol of petrochemical origin→ typical purity: 99.8 % → odorless or faint

Comparison of purity (GC-FID)

0

14

28

49

A. brasiliensis

C. albicans

S. aureus

E. coli

P. aeruginosa

B. cepacia

E. hirae

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

log

(cfu

/mL

)

Days

0

14

28

49

A. brasiliensis

C. albicans

S. aureus

E. coli

P. aeruginosa

B. cepacia

E. hirae

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

log

(cfu

/mL

)

Days

Variation of germ count with time in aqueous growth medium with 0.3 g/L BSA at 20°Ccontaining 5 % Pentiol / 5 % A-Leen 5 (cfu = colony forming units, BSA = bovine serum albumine).

A-Leen 5 Pentiolvegetal origin petrochemical origin

Both ingredients provide the same antimicrobial efficacy

E-Leen rangeOur clever mixtures, based on A-Leen 5, for a wide range of applications

A-Leen 5

Sodium Benzoate, Benzoic

Acid

GlycerylCaprylate/Caprate

Unique combination

of Citrus Extracts

Phenyl-propanol

+

++

+

EE-E-LeenLeen Green BpH range of activity 3→6Soluble in waterECOCERT/COSMOS approvedNaturality Index: 0,84Odorless or faint odorEfficient against yeast,

mold and bacteriaUse level: 1.0 →3.0%

EE-E-LeenLeen Green CpH range of activity 4→7

Dispersible in waterECOCERT/COSMOS approved

Naturality Index: 0,93Odorless or faint odor

Efficient against yeast, (mold) and bacteriaUse level: 1.0 →3.0%

EE-E-LeenLeen Green ORpH range of activity 3→6,5

Soluble in waterECOCERT/COSMOS approved

Naturality Index: 0,93Odorless or faint odor

Efficient against yeast, (mold) and bacteriaUse level: 1.0 →3.0%

EE-E-LeenLeen Green AUnlimited pH range of activitySoluble in water at ≤ 3%ECOCERT/COSMOS approvedNaturality Index: 0,93Faint odor, aromaticEfficient against yeast,

mold and bacteriaUse level: 1.0 →3.0%

Bio-sourcedBio-degradable

Eco-certifiedSkin-friendlyAllergen-free

Easy to useReady to use

69 MINASOLVE

E-Leen rangeA set of safety and efficacy data:HRIPT test

Challenge test:

A / B : challenge test result, fulfils criteria A/B of ISO 11930 : not recommended for this application

A-Leen 5… + Phenylpropanol:

E-Leen Green A

+ Benzoic Acid/ Sodium Benzoate:

E-Leen Green B

+ GlycerylCaprylate/Caprate:

E-Leen Green C

+ Citrus Extracts:

E-Leen Green OR

Pentylene Glycol

A-Leen 5pH 1,5% 2,0% 3,0% 2,0% 3,0% 2,0% 3,0% 2,0% 3,0% 2,0% 3,0% 5,0%

#1:

O/W-Emulsion

4,5 A A A A B A A5,5 B A A B A A A6,0 A B A A A6,5 A A B A7,0 B A A8,0 B A

#2:

Sulfate Free Shampoo

4,5 B A A B5,5 B A A B B A7,0 B B A B8,0 A

HRIPT protocol :

Skin compatibility study and absence of allergenic potential, after repeated applications of the ingredients under occlusive conditions.Patch material : Occlusive patch Finn Chamber Large, 50 µL

HRIPT A-Leen 5Focus group 101Age 18-65Skin Phototype (Fitzpatrick) I to IV

Type of skin 67% normal / 33% sensitiveResults - No irritative reaction

- Very good skin compatibility - No allergic reaction

“E-Leen range is making possible to create “modern“ self-preserved formulations with the help of sustainably made multifunctional ingredients …”

Minasolve – Application LabTechnical support to customers Guide FormulationsDevelopment toolsMarket trends…

Mildness

Baby care

Face care

Body care

pH > 6

Odourless

Natural

Rinse off

E-Leen Green A

E-Leen Green B

E-Leen Green C

E-Leen Green OR

EasySafe Hexam +

Consumer study, tested at 3 % in an O/W emulsion, by 23 volunteers

70 MINASOLVE

Dziękuję za uwagęThanks for your attention

Much more to discover on Safic Alcan Booth #221:✓ Cost Champion solutions

✓ Actives: anti dandrfuffs, anti aging, cooling, lightening

Booth #221

Blue light protection

stanislaw krus

BASF Global Technical Center Sun Care • 09.2019

71 BASF

Blue light is part of visible light

HPCI 2019 | Global Technical Center Sun Care2

Blue light is able to damage skin and promotes premature aging

Blue light (HEV = High Energy Visible) Part of the visible light spectrum

Deeply penetrates into the skin

Emits high energy

Blue light damages skin (400-455 nm) Generates oxidation (free radicals)

Creates dermal damage (MMP-1)

Damages mitochondrial DNA (8-OHdG)

Nakashima Y et al, Blue light induced oxidative skin in live skin. Free radicals Biology and Medecine, 108: 300-310, 2017Denda and Fuziwara 2008; Mizutani et al 2016; Nakashima et al 2017Mizutani et al 2016

The majority (64%) of free radicals on the skin is generated by UV (mainly UVA) radiation, but HEV also contributes to radical generation (36%)

The main factor of accelerated photoaging is radical formation under irradiation

UVA irradiation is most important in radical formation For anti aging claims efficient UVA protection is most important Additional absorption in long UVA and HEV provides even improved

protection

Blue light generates Free Radicals

HPCI 2019 | Global Technical Center Sun Care3

Zastrow et.el. „The missing link – light induced (280-1600nm) free radicals formation in human skin“, Skin Pharmacol Physiol,2009, 22:31-44

0

0,1

0,2

0,3

0,4

0,5

0,6

0,7

0,8

0,9

1

280 300 320 340 360 380 400 420 440 460 480 500 520 540 560 580 600 620 640 660 680 700

RG

act

SP

(x

· 10

12ra

dica

ls /

mg

per

mJ/

cm2 )

Wavelength (nm)

UV HEV

Free radicals

HPCI 2019 | Global Technical Center Sun Care4

Blue light protectionPhysical protection with Tinosorb® M

72 BASF

Tinosorb® M offers a physical protection against blue lightMechanism of action

HPCI 2019 | Global Technical Center Sun Care5

Tinosorb® M absorbs, reflects and scatters the UV radiation thanks to its chemical structure and physical form.

Scattering effect provides additional protection against blue light

Absorption (due to its organic nature)

Reflection (due to its particulate nature)

Multiple Scattering (due to its particulate nature)

Blue Light Protection with Tinosorb® M

HPCI 2019 | Global Technical Center Sun Care6

Notable protection of Tinosorb® M in the visible range related to its scattering properties. Protection increases with increase concentration of organic particulate UV filter

𝐁𝐁𝐁𝐁𝐁𝐁𝐁𝐁𝐁𝐁𝐁𝐁𝐁𝐁𝐁𝐁 𝐁𝐁𝐁𝐁𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥 𝐩𝐩𝐩𝐩𝐫𝐫𝐫𝐫𝐫𝐫𝐫𝐫𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐁𝐁𝐁𝐁𝐫𝐫𝐫𝐫𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐫𝐫𝐫𝐫𝐫𝐫𝐫𝐫 𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐫𝐫𝐫𝐫 𝐯𝐯𝐯𝐯𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐥𝐫𝐫𝐫𝐫𝐫𝐫𝐫𝐫= 4

HPCI 2019 | Global Technical Center Sun Care7

Blue light protection Biological protection with Ciste’M® and/or Tinosorb® M

73 BASF

Blue light creates dermal damage: collagen degradation

HPCI 2019 | Global Technical Center Sun Care8

MMP-1: matrix metalloproteinase Collagen fibers are the most important fibers

in the ECM of the dermis. Type I and III collagens are the main collagens of the dermis.

MMP-1 is a collagen degrading enzyme induced in the skin by UV and HEV radiation

0 J/cm² 40 J/cm² 60 J/cm² 80 J/cm²

Histological results

Blue light biological protection with Ciste‘M® and/or Tinosorb® M

9

TestSkin protection from blue light

Irradiation Solarbox device BioEcdelivers Blue Light with a maximum intensity of 5.9 mW/cm² at 455 nm (85 J/cm²)

Skin explants Abdominal skin from plastic surgery (12 mm) Put in culture with BIO’EC’s explant

medium at 5% CO2 / 37°C Donor: woman 51 yo

Formulation testedCMC (Carboxymethylcellulose) gel with 0.1% Ciste‘M®

4% Tinosorb® M 0.1% Ciste‘M® + 4% Tinosorb® M

Biomarkers (endpoints) MMP-1

Study protocol

HPCI 2019 | Global Technical Center Sun Care

Study protocol

HPCI 2019 | Global Technical Center Sun Care10

Application 2 mg·cm-2

(4 times)

24 hours in cultureMatrix metalloproteinase-1Immunostaining

Solarbox device (BioEc) Blue Light with a maximum intensity

of 5.9 mW/cm² at 455 nm (85 J/cm²)

Natural and artificial sources of blue light

Blue light exposure (455 nm) Time

Sun light 2 h

Solarbox 4h

Laptop (1) standard white 70 days

iPad 9 days

Blue light biological protection with Ciste‘M® and/or Tinosorb® M

(1) Bigger et al. Frontiers in Public Health, 2015 (2) Christian Cajochen, J Appl Physiol, 2011

Irradiation

85 J ·cm-2

74 BASF

HPCI 2019 | Global Technical Center Sun Care11

Ciste’M® protects collagen fibers from the deleterious effects of blue light.

Synergistic effect of the combination of Ciste’M® and Tinosorb® M was found.

Blue light biological protection with Ciste‘M® and/or Tinosorb® MResults

HPCI 2019 | Global Technical Center Sun Care13

Blue light protection Biological protection with Arganyl® and/or Tinosorb® M

Blue light creates DNA oxidative damage in the mitochondria

HPCI 2019 | Global Technical Center Sun Care14

DNA oxidation

8-hydroxy-2'-deoxyguanosine (8-OHdG) 8-OHdG is one of the major products of DNA

oxidation in the mitochondria and has therefore been widely used as biomarker for oxidative stress

It is used to estimate the DNA damage after Blue Light exposure.

Histological results

0 J/cm² 40 J/cm² 60 J/cm² 80 J/cm²

75 BASF

Blue light biological protection with Arganyl® and/or Tinosorb® M

15

TestSkin protection from blue light

Irradiation Solarbox device BioEcdelivers Blue Light with a maximum intensity of 5.9 mW/cm² at 455 nm (85 J/cm²)

Skin explants Abdominal skin from plastic surgery (12 mm) Put in culture with BIO’EC’s explant

medium at 5% CO2 / 37°C Donor: woman 51 yo

Formulation testedCMC (Carboxymethylcellulose) gel with 0.21% Arganyl®

4% Tinosorb® M 0.21% Arganyl® + 4% Tinosorb® M

Biomarkers (endpoints) 8-OHdG

Study protocol

HPCI 2019 | Global Technical Center Sun Care

HPCI 2019 | Global Technical Center Sun Care17

Blue light biological protection with Arganyl® and/or Tinosorb® MResults

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

Basal Untreatedblue lightcontrol

0.21% Arganyl®+ blue light

0.21% Arganyl® +4.0% Tinosorb®M

+ blue light

StatisticsMean œSEM

N=9t test

vs blue light control(*) p<0.05

(**) p<0.01(***) p<0.001

8-OHdG(% vs blue light control)

(***)

-48%

(**)

-84%

(*)

8-hydroxy-2'-deoxyguanosine (8-OHdG)

Arganyl® protects DNA from blue light.

Synergistic effect of the combination of Arganyl® and Tinosorb® M was observed.

Study protocol

HPCI 2019 | Global Technical Center Sun Care16

Application 2 mg·cm-2

(4 times)

Irradiation

85 J ·cm-2

Solarbox device (BioEc) Blue Light with a maximum intensity

of 5.9 mW/cm² at 455 nm (85 J/cm²)

Natural and artificial sources of blue light

Blue light biological protection with Arganyl® and/or Tinosorb® M

24 hours in culture8-OHdGImmunostaining

(1) Bigger et al. Frontiers in Public Health, 2015 (2) Christian Cajochen, J Appl Physiol, 2011

Blue light exposure (455 nm) Time

Sun light 2 h

Solarbox 4h

Laptop (1) standard white 70 days

iPad 9 days

76 BASF

HPCI 2019 | Global Technical Center Sun Care19

+

Blue light protectionOur portfolio

Ciste’M®

INCI: Maltodextrin, Cistus Monspeliensis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Biological protection Dermal protection

(MMP-1)

© B

AS

F B

CS

© B

AS

F B

CS

Arganyl®

INCI liquid: Water, Glycerin, Argania Spinosa Leaf Extract

INCI powder: Argania Spinosa Leaf Extract, Maltodextrin

Biological protection DNA protection

(8-OHdG)

Tinosorb® M

INCI: Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (nano)

Physical protectionAnti free-radicals

(Blue light transmission)

While the descriptions, designs, data and information contained herein are presented in good faith and believed to be accurate, itis provided gratis and for your guidance only. Because many factors may affect processing or application/use, we recommend that you make tests to determine the suitability of a product for your particular purpose prior to use. NO WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE ARE MADE REGARDING PRODUCTS DESCRIBED OR DESIGNS, OR THAT DATA OR INFORMATION MAY BE USED WITHOUT INFRINGING THE INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY RIGHTS OF OTHERS. IN NO CASE SHALL THE DESCRIPTIONS, INFORMATION, DATA OR DESIGNS PROVIDED BE CONSIDERED A PART OF OUR TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF SALE.

For more information visit us at www.personal-care.basf.com or www.carecreations.basf.com

Disclaimer

HPCI 2019 | Global Technical Center Sun Care21

77 BASF