Ford Explorer Starting and Stalling Problems« 1 …5 6 7 8 9 10 11 »

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cekmommy09 Posts: 1

May 2011

hi, im having the same exact problem, and we hit the button down but it doesnt start most of the time, we have to play with the fuses, the switch button and sometimes itll start after a while. any advice?

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gonfry Posts: 2

May 2011

Did you try to replace ECC relay?

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gonfry Posts: 2

May 2011

I'm having the same problem but I'll change the EEC relay. According to message # 81 it works.....I'm keeping very positive with this option.

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gitfidel Posts: 1

June 2011

My 94 explorer wont start at times and sometimes stalls also emits an odor like the mixture is too rich,and runs rough under exelleration.

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peh53 Posts: 1

June 2011

I had this problem with my 2002 Explorer. After driving it awhile, I would shut it off and it

wouldn't start. When trying to restart it would turn over but wouldn't start. It also would start after sitting awhile. Took it to Ford and at first they

couldn't find the problem. What I realized, it had to be over 90 degrees out. Took it back to ford when it was hot out and they found that the fuel pump didn't have full pressure when it was over 90 degrees. They replaced the pump and haven't had any problems since.

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akasoul1 Posts: 1

June 2011

I'm having the same problem with my 2000 Ford Explorer, except it happened just that day. Took it to the mechanic and they don't know what it is. I see that this happened a while back...any insight you could share would be greatly appreciated.

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eduffy80911 Posts: 1

July 2011

After some trial and error, I began to remove the fuel pressure sensor and discovered one of the lines had a break in it. I believe when it got hot, the gap got larger and the fuel mixture got too rich, as the sensor was calling for more pressure from the pump. Replaced the sensor and the line, Problem solved. I got the car cheap because the previous owner couldn't figure it out. Glad I stumbled on it. If nothing else is working, check those lines!

1996-2001 Ford Explorer EGR Delta Pressure Feedback Sensor (DPFE) Bolt-on (Wells)

This code refers to the Delta Pressure Feedback EGR(DPFE) sensor voltage. The voltage in this sensor changes as it detects a difference in vacuum. Test: Engine running, so be careful and use proper care! Find the EGR valve and disconnect the vacuum line going to the top of the valve. There should be no vacuum there at this time. If there is then check for proper EVR (EGR vacuum regulator) operation and vacuum line routing. These lines could be broken, cracked or plugged. I have run across many EGR passages in the intake manifold that become plugged with carbon and prevent EGR flow, check this by removing the throttle housing that the EGR valve is bolted to and look at the passages, clean if neccessary, reset Check engine light and see if it comes back on after operation. Hope this helps, let me know.

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2000 ford explorer P0113 code, replaced the MAF, and cracked vacuum hoses. Reset the code with both the code reader and disconnecting the negative terminal. Light stays off for about an hour then comes back on. Can it be the egr vacuum solenoid?

Here's what it is doing. During the summer time when the vehicle is warmed up and it is hot outside the vehicle dies. Have to let it sit for about 20 minutes, like it is cooling down, then it will run for about 5 minutes before doing it again. any help would be much appreciated. Thanks for looking.

Dennis Weid. have u had a key on engine running trouble code test run? what are the O2 voltages? Have u checked for intake vacuum leaks with propane?

Dennis Weid. yes it is the active test that we run with the Ford scanner called an NGS.

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The DPFE cannot and will not ever set P0171 and P0174, Those are fuel codes. The DPFE will set EGR codes (EGR Low flow, excessive flow, etc) only. His comment about vacuum leaks is on the money, check for those 1st especially at the PCV lines and elbow fittings which rupture often. The other common cause of 171/174 is MAF sensor dirty/contaminated. Less common is fuel pressure issues and exhaust leaks and O2 sensor issues, but those will require deeper probing and the ones above are the problem much more often.the 171 and 174 mean engine too lean fuel mixture despite 25% or greater additional fuel being added to attempt to normalize fuel ratio. theres too much air for the gas being injected. And the computer saw this and added gas, to its max limit (usually 25-35%) and O2 sensors still reported lean. A technician with a scnatool could look at freeze frame and data stream and determine if it was a constant problem at all speeds, or only at idle. If its mostly/only at idle, vacuum leaks are most likely. If its better at idle and worse at rev, fuel supply/dirty filter are more likely. If its consistently off at all speeds...a quick check of voltage and barometric pressure reading will tell a tech if the MAF sensor is the culprit. Have it checked.

This lean condition can be cause by leaky vacuum hose and / or defect DPFE manifold pressure sensor. On top of the engine / near the end of the air intake,you will see the DPFE sensor. It should has FORD part #

F77E-9J460-AB

Check the connector and the body of the sensor for crack (vacuum leak) Follow each plastic tubes and look for leaks.

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P0113 code indicates that the intake air temp sensor has Hi voltage. This sensor is located in the air intake near or in the air cleaner. It is a 2 wire sensor that looks like it does nothing. It measures air temp coming into engine and then the computer knows what kind of fuel mixture it should be delivering. This may be something to look at. The reason the check engine light comes on later is that the computer only self checks at certain times. Rate me if this helps

Moe Another problem just occurred to me. If your engine has a minimum idle spec. that requires the dissconnetion of the IAC and set the throttle plate to a specified RPM.. If this is required as an adjustment for "tune-up" , then there is a possibility that the air intake has a build-up of carbon between the throttle plate and throttle bore. This spec is called "Minimum air rate" Does this help?

May 18, 2009

Moe ALERT Check for EGR operation. If the egr were to leak at idle then your problem is occurring. To check the egr valve operation, remove the vac hose to the valve and see if there is any change to the idle. If not then the control to the egr is o/k. Apply vac to the egr and check if engine running changes. If the engine still runs the same then the egr valve is leaking internally. Replace egr.

May 21, 2009

jeremyk80 Posts: 1

July 2011

As of today- the day of the posting. I have the same problem , I bought a brand-new Starter and

a new battery(the good one)No luck! just a click each turn of the key !! I have straced the wire for any short in them. I'm stuck!! I think the starter gets stuck by the flywheel.. but not sure :mad:

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olalde Posts: 1

July 2011

I have a 1998 mercury mountaineer and about a month ago I went to go somewhere and it would not start. Then later on in the day it started. It never did that again until last week then everyday it seemed to be a hit or miss thing so we had the fuel filter changed and a new battery put in and it ran fine for a few days but then the next day it wouldnt start. Yesterday It wouldnt start and it ran fine the day before then we tried it lastnight ,started right up and we drove it with no problems then this morning wont start...we tried jumping it but it still wouldnt start. Does anyone have any idea what this could be????

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rywalker Posts: 1

September 2011

Check your crank shaft position sensor. If you get under the car and locate the crank shaft you should see a plastic piece with 3 bolts that brushes up against the crankshaft. You will see a plug going into that piece. Give it a jiggle next time it wont start then try to start it again. I had the same problem with my 97 explorer and it always works. However, If you go to the auto stores to get a new one they will give you something that looks nothing like the existing sensor. Still trying to figure that one out.

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luckycali Posts: 15

September 2011

I recently notice that my 02 explorer is hesitating to start. I have change the battery out I even went way over the cc amps I would figured that would resolved the problem due to it had a under rated battery in it but the problem is still there. It sounds like the fuel pump life is near for it but don't want to replace fuel pump if its not that.

Would appreciated if any one has had this same problem would let me knw wat they did to fix it.

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orcalover Posts: 1

September 2011

Replaced my fuel pump, battery, and several other parts it is not any of them it is still not starting every once in a while. I plan on checking the fuel pumpl lines like that other post said he did. Good luck.

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luckycali Posts: 15

October 2011

I'm thinking it might be the starter relay. I have a 01 Lincoln ls V8 and I also had the same problem with it. It would start fine sum times then it would hesitate to start till it really wouldn't start at all I thought it was maybe my starter so I took that out and took it to get check and it came back ok. So wat I did was I took my car to the Ford dealer since I had warranty on the car and they told me it was the starter relay that was screw up. And it sure was they replaced it and the car starts with no hesitation.

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tchaps Posts: 1

October 2011

after replacing starter, ingnition switch and neutral safety switch, battery goodthe truck will not start if I jump the starter with screw driver it starts and stays running, it sounds like the problem is between ignition and starter,anybody has any ideas thank you

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melodys Posts: 6

November 2011

RE: Truck was DEAD! After a lengthy going over, my mechanic brother--who was determined it was the fuel pump causing my truck to not start--found that a little bitty part was dirty! He cleaned it up, blew out the dirt, just wiped it off with his hands, you know. It hasn't had a problem like this since! Everybody I talked to, including Ford, said it was the fuel pump; but I had a gut feeling about it, so I didn't give up looking for answers. I can't tell you what it was, and my brother can't recall what it was--2 years ago, you know. He just put his hand on everything, cleaned up every little gadget he touched; that's how he found it, as he was stumped for an answer. I've had one problem that's chronic: it burns up blend (air) door actuators about as fast as I can get one put on it. I searched for a recall, as I noticed in other forums, that many people had the same problem. Now, I'm no mechanic, and my brother won't even touch this one! But I have torn that truck up--I found it--got a little advice from a forum--I'll have it on there tomorrow! The shop wanted it for 2 days, $55/hour!!! (And to think, I've been teaching school...!)

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hexenvalor Posts: 1

November 2011

I just picked this up yesterday and was under the impression it was only the mass airflow sensor gone bad. The problem I am having it when I start the car, it will right away rev itself to about 3000 rpms and stay there for 5-10 seconds then will calm down. But when I switch to reverse or drive, it wants to die on me, I always have to make sure Im ready to rev the engine up when I switch to it(and when i come to stops as well, I put it in Neutral before I stop to prevent it from dieing). Also it does not want to accelerate fast at all, and if I were to try and "floor" it, it will try to die on me and I have to let off. I have been reading this whole discussion thread and would you think it could be the EEC relay? or would it be my throttle positioning sensor? EGV issues? im at a loss. im not a very knowledgeable person when it come to cars. PLEASE HELP!

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melodys Posts: 6

November 2011

I am experiencing the same thing! --one foot on the gas, one on the brake.... But I still don't have heat...first things first, you know! If you figure this out, speak up, as I have a feeling that's the next thing I have to fix. Thanks, and best wishes for continued success with your Explorer--now I know why they named it that--I've never EXPLORED a vehicle as much as I have this one!

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franchesca Posts: 2

December 2011

I recently had the AC compressor replaced, along with a new serpentine belt and they replaced the fuel filter. Now my Explorer only starts sometimes...cranks fine...but takes like ten tries before it catches and starts. Could this have something to do with replacing the fuel filter? Doesn't show up any codes at all when tested but of course it starts at the mechanics shop. It's not due for spark plug replacement for another 5 thous miles...it only has 55K on it.

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franchesca Posts: 2

December 2011

After reading other people's suggestions I located the fuel pump relay in the engine compartment and gave it a jiggle, took it out and back in again and now it started today.....fingers crossed , maybe that was it, sure don't want to take it back to the shop where, of course, it always starts up and they can't find anything wrong with it.

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melodys Posts: 6

December 2011

Go through and clean everything under the hood you can put your hand on; there is a small sensor setting in there that can get dirty/clog up that can give you grief like that. I found it BEFORE I put in a new fuel pump, as EVERYBODY said I should...even the dealer! It was a dirty sensor. I HOPE that's your problem, instead of a fuel pump! I would certainly consider a new fuel filter, though. My brother's friend wasn't so fortunate; replaced the fuel pump and it wouldn't even start--dirty sensor. (I cannot remember the name of one sensor in particular, I just know he cleaned everything he could touch.) I speak from experience only, Lord knows I'm not an expert! LOL

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2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac Fuel Pump Replacement?

E asked 9 months ago

My 01 Sport Trac has been giving me problems. At first it took a while to start after turning the key so I thought it may be the spark plugs, but before I could take it in, it went to barely being able to start and as soon as I gave it gas it would die. I got the error codes read from Auto Zone and it gave me 2 codes.P0113, which is intake air temperature sensor circuit high and the other code is P0101, which is mass or volume air flow "A" circuit low. I took the vehicle to a mechanic and he measured the pressure of the fuel pump and told me that I needed a new fuel pump. I had the fuel pump replaced less than 5 years ago and have only put on about 35,000 since then. When the mechanic got under the vehicle to drop the tank and replace the fuel pump he said there was a kink in the plastic line that runs along the fuel tank(I would assume this is the fuel line). He said unlike a rubber line he couldn't just straighten it out and would have to put in a new line. That's where I stand right now and I guess I have 2 questions. First, is it true that a bad fuel pump could throw other components out of whack and cause these other error codes? Second, could a kink in the line be the problem and not the fuel pump itself so that if the line is replaced that may fix the problem? I would assume that it would be a lot cheaper if it's just a line that has to be replaced instead of a complete fuel pump with fuel filter.

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It's highly unlikely that your fuel pump died especially after just 35000 miles. There are plenty of mechanics out there that are dishonest and replace parts unnecessarily and then charge you for something that didn't need to be done. It happens all the time. It's possible that a line was kinked between the fuel tank and the trunk floor but that wouldn't mean the fuel pump would need to be replaced. The kinked line would reduce fuel pressure and volume to the point that it wouldn't run or run well but in your case he lied to you. The codes that came up have NOTHING to do with the fuel system.

The P0113 code has the following possible causes: - Faulty Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor - Dirty air filter - Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor harness is open or shorted - Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor circuit poor electrical connection The P0101 code has the possible following causes: - Faulty (MAF)mass air flow sensor

- Intake air leaks - Dirty mass air flow sensor - Dirty mass air filter - Mass air flow sensor harness is open or shorted - Mass air flow sensor circuit poor electrical connection You got scammed. Always go to see the problem before you have it OK'd for repair or demand to get back the old parts.

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Uploaded on Dec 12, 2011

Here I demonstrate the simple steps involved with cleaning your mass airflow sensor. In this particular case I was troubleshooting a rough idle on a 2006 Chevy Colorado 3.5, but these steps can work for almost any vehicle. If you have any questions feel free to post them and I will do my best to help!

Here are some of the codes you might see related to your MAF:P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input P0104 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Intermittent

P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1) P0172 System too Rich (Bank 1)P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)P0175 System too Rich (Bank 2)

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Expert:  chris replied 2 years ago.

Hi there

on this unit the IAT , intake air temp sensor ,,has been made into the MAF, the mass air flow sensor,, and the is the component right after the air filter

its number 6 in the pic above

any more info just ask ,we can go back and forth on this page

Chris

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Expert:  chris replied 2 years ago. yes ,, the two wires for the IAT , located inside the MAF are the GRAY wire and the GRAY/RED wire ___________________________________________-

’

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PN8Q1Z_9EFo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vPT8rL0noYg

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A Clean MAF Sensor helps mpg (how to Clean MAF)

<< < (34/56) > >>

BADalanche:I did it over a month ago and I got almost 1 1/2 MPG out of it.  Was around 380s a tank, and now back up to 420s.  I can also tell a difference in accelleration.  Easy to do, and cheap... 

motodj:I also did this, bought CFC cleaner at napa autoparts, cost like 5  bucks

cleaned, and i think it helped... maybe... with accelerationbut more notably it helped the idle, smoothed it out quite a bit

MAKE SURE YOU USE MAS CLEANER!!!

carb cleaner is too abrasive, and may damage your electrodes...

but, in addition to the air filters.... I love my Amsoil air filter, dry, just vaccuum or shake or air compressor to clean, cost 40 bucks,, bigger improvement than the clean MaS itself

plus i modified the air box and tube, all in all, all "intake" mods including the air filter, CFC cleaner, parts for intake cost like 60 to 80 bucks....

love the intake sound i have now (due to tube replacement :)gas went up from 9.2mpg to 9.75mpg.... keep in mind, that i have a heavy foot, a 2500 truck, and this is all stop n go drivinghighway went from 13 or less to over 14.5i travel at over 75 anywhere on a highway...(if posted 70... ill be over 80 easy...)

anyway, worth the money, dont think its a "real gain" for power, but is an efficiency thing, improved the smoothness off idle

now plugs, wires, exhaust, all fluids flushed to amsoil, ect....

I'll have a post with all my mods... as far as MPGs are going with these mods... hoping to get 12 to 14 city, and 16 or better highway (with keeping my heavy foot)  i believe its within reason, guess we'll see

Sarge E5, USMC:did mine today. I'll have to do the wif's Impala too.

aval02:Doesn't the MAF sensor clean itself? I read somewhere, that when the engine is shut off, the element is heated to a high temperature and any deposits should burn off.        Maybe it is not so much in cleaning the element itself as cleaning the honeycombed screen.        

Can most of the improvements be explained because K&N filter had been used and there were some oil deposits?

I always use stock filter.     I have to try it out on my truck.     I think any improvement is worth $5 and 15 minutes of time :D.

motodj:i do agree aval02cause some speak of "noticeable" gains, and i dont think there is a good amount of "hidden" or "trapped" hp... but if filters were over-oiled, and they are getting the MAS filthy, then i do see some gains being made that would be noticeable

but with all the time n effort most of us put into the truck, the $5 can of cleaner is worth it too me... the only reason i did mine was cause i had it on the counter, and i could wipe dust off with my finger...

all i rubbed was the metal screen, so without ever hearing that the element heats up and burns off any deposits is quite possible??? i dont have a clue..

but i did notice smoother idle... barely noticeable gain... didnt fully improve the idle either...when i changed plugs n wires, added the amsoil filter and modded my box -after- i cleaned the MAS, i notice much more of a gain :)cost more than $5 though... but was needed at 100,000 miles plus.