2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved Permanent
Waving Cosmetology: Milady Standard Cosmetology Slide 2 Results!
Why, man, I have gotten lots of results. I know several thousand
things that wont work Thomas A. Edison Slide 3 Objectives List the
factors of a hair analysis for chemical texture services Explain
the physical and chemical actions that take place during permanent
waving List and describe the various types of permanent waving
solutions Slide 4 Chemical Texture Services Slide 5 Permanently
Alter Wave Patterns Curl straight hair add volume Straighten curly
hair smooth Soften coarse, straight hair Slide 6 Types of Texture
Services Permanent waving Soft-curl perms Chemical hair relaxing
Slide 7 Hair Structure Cuticle Strong compact cuticle Damaged
cuticle Slide 8 Cortex Medulla pH and texture Hair Structure Slide
9 Building Blocks of Hair Amino acids Peptide bonds Slide 10
Polypeptide chains Keratin proteins Side bonds Building Blocks of
Hair Slide 11 Side Bonds Disulfide bonds Salt bonds Hydrogen bonds
Slide 12 The Client Consultation Greet client Ask open-ended
questions Determine haircolor use Review photos Determine texture
service history Slide 13 Determine how client styles her hair
Determine desired results Perform hair analysis Fill out chemical
record card The Client Consultation Slide 14 Metallic Salts Test
1oz of 20-volume peroxide 20 drops of 28% ammonia Immerse 20
strands for 30 minutes Assess lightening Slide 15 Client Records
Slide 16 Hair and Scalp Analysis Scalp abrasions Texture Density
Porosity Elasticity Growth direction Slide 17 Hair Texture Coarse
hair Medium hair Fine hair Slide 18 Hair Density Number of hairs
per square inch Referred to as hair thickness Slide 19 Hair
Porosity Resistant hair Normal hair Porous hair Slide 20 Elasticity
and Growth Direction Normal Low Elasticity test Slide 21 Permanent
Waving Physical change wrapping on rods Chemical change perm
solution and neutralizer Curl size determines rod Slide 22 Perm
Tools - Rods Concave Straight Long Short Slide 23 Other Perm Rods
Soft bender rods Loop rods Slide 24 End Papers Double flat wrap
Single flat wrap Bookend wrap Slide 25 Sectioning Panels Base
sections Slide 26 Base Placement and Direction On-base Half-base
Off-base Base direction Slide 27 Wrapping Techniques Croquignole
Spiral Piggyback Slide 28 Chemistry of Perm Waving Reduction
reaction: addition of hydrogen or removal of oxygen Disulfide bond
joins sulfur atoms Solution breaks a disulfide bond Sulfur atoms
attach to solution hydrogen Once broken, polypeptide chains form in
new shape Slide 29 Reduction Reaction Reduction breaks disulfide
bonds Oxidation reforms them Slide 30 Reducing Agents Thio
compounds Solution strength Thioglycolic acid Ammonium
thioglycolate Perm pH Slide 31 Perm Solution pH Slide 32 The pH
Scale Slide 33 Types of Permanent Waves Alkaline waves or cold
waves o Use ammonium thioglycolate o pH between 9.0 and 9.6 Acid
waves o Use glyceryl monothioglycolate o pH between 4.5 and 7.0 o
Require heat to speed processing Slide 34 Acid-Balanced Waves pH of
7.8 to 8.2 Three components o Wave solution o Activator (contains
GMTG) o Neutralizer Slide 35 Other Types of Waves Exothermic
Endothermic Ammonia-free Thio-free Low-pH o Use sulfates, sulfites,
and bisulfites Slide 36 Processed Hair Average processing time
Overprocessed hair Underprocessed hair Slide 37 Perm Selection
Slide 38 Perm Waving Neutralization Stage one: deactivates waving
solution o Rinse thoroughly o Towel-blot o Apply a preneutralizing
conditioner Slide 39 Stage two: Rebuilds disulfide bonds Post-perm
hair care Perm Waving Neutralization Slide 40 Safety Precautions
Protect client clothing Determine allergic reaction Examine scalp
Determine extent of damage Determine prior hydroxide relaxer use
Perform metallic salt test Slide 41 Apply protective barrier Do not
dilute or add ingredients Protect eyes and skin Follow
manufacturers directions Wear gloves Replace wet cotton or towels
Discard unused product Safety Precautions Slide 42 Summary and
Review What is the difference between end bonds and side bonds?
Describe three types of side bonds Slide 43 Summary and Review How
do different services change side bonds? Explain the difference
between croquignole and spiral wrapping How does the reduction
reaction in a thio solution work? Slide 44 What is the function of
thio neutralization? Summary and Review Slide 45 List and describe
the 8 major types of permanent waving solutions Summary and Review
Slide 46 Congratulations! Youve just completed one unit of study
toward program completion!
