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September 2009 44 ©2009 Sommelier Journal. May not be distributed without permission. www.sommelierjournal.com

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Page 1: ©2009 Sommelier Journal. May not be distributed without ... · Sommelier Journal 49 provence rosé Château de Pibarnon Bandol 2008 $30 Bright orange-pink, with intriguing aromas

September 200944

©2009 Sommelier Journal. May not be distributed without permission. www.sommelierjournal.com

Page 2: ©2009 Sommelier Journal. May not be distributed without ... · Sommelier Journal 49 provence rosé Château de Pibarnon Bandol 2008 $30 Bright orange-pink, with intriguing aromas

Sommelier Journal 45

COVERSTORY

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Beachfront restaurant in Nice (left); Domaines Ott Clos Mireille vineyard in La Londe-les-Maures (above); bouillabaisse (below).

Withplentiful sunshine, a ruggedcoastline,quaintfishingvillages,and some of the most deliciousseafoodintheworld,Provenceis

almost as well known to American visitors asParisis.SituatedbetweentheRhônedeltaandNiceinsoutheasternFrance,Provenceiseasilyaccessiblebylandorsea.ThegrittyportofMar-seille—a city that Julia Child called home forayear,and theplacewheresheclaims tohavelearned themostabout trueFrenchcooking—iscounterbalancedbythefabulousCannes,an-choringtheCôted’Azur.

SummerinProvenceisheavenonearth.Ce-ruleanskies, ruggedmountains,Alpinemead-ows,andthecalmMediterraneansetthestage.Sunburnedtouristssiproséwiththeirleisurelylunches at chic beachfront clubs like Saint-Tropez’sClub55ontheFrenchRiviera.Onlan-guoroussummerafternoons,thematingcallsofthemalecicadas,orcigales,gentlyliftonefrom

CATHERINE FALLIS, MS, ACWP

COVERSTORYCOVERSTORYCOVERSTORY

Provence:Heaven for the Senses

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September 200946

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asultrystuporjustintimetoenjoyanotherroundasthesunsetsandtheProvençaleveningcaressesthesensesyetagain.

Grasse,theworld’sperfumecapital,ishere,asaresomeofthemostfragrantflowersontheplanet.Scentsofclassicgarrigue,theperfumeofthescrublands—olive,cypress,andAleppopinegroves—filltheair,andfieldsofwildthyme,rosemary,andlavenderabound.Garlicisintheair,too,andit’sconsumedinsalaciousquantities—mostlyintheformofaio-li,therich,homemadegarlicmayonnaise.“Provençalcaviar”(atapenadeofblackolives,anchovies,andcapers)andratatouillearestaples;herbes de Provenceroundoutmanydishes.Onthelighterside,onecanenjoytheblack-olive-and-tuna-based salade Niçoise, freshseaurchins,orafiletofrouget.Richerdishesincludebouillabaisse,aProvençalstewoffishandshellfish.Fresh, fragrantwhitesandrosésfromtheregioncomplementeventhestrongestflavorsofthesedishes,whilethemoreformidableBan-dolrouge—thefavoritewineofin-the-knowregularsandlocals—isbettersuitedforthelocalSisteronlamb.

Winegrowing areasPhoenician traders established a trading post at Marseille around

600B.C.,plantinggrapesandmakingthefirstwinesinFrenchhistory.TheGreeksandtheRomansfollowed,andtheareabecameanimportantwinegrowingcenter.JuliusCaesar,andlaterKingLouisXVandtheroyalfamily,favoredBandolwines;inmorerecenttimes,BandolswerevaluedalmostashighlyasBordeaux.

This crescent-moon-shaped land tumbles down lazily amid scrubandbrushfromtheAlpinefoothillstothesea.TheclimateisdistinctlyMediterranean.Ahighlytouted3,000hoursofsunlightperyear(avinerequiresonly1,300)helpmakeupforsharpfluctuationsinweather.Af-tershort,violentMediterraneanstorms,theblastingmistralwindquicklydriesthevines,keepingthemdisease-free.“ThemistralistheProvençalwinemaker’sbestfriend,”saysLucienPeyraud,ownerofbenchmarkpro-ducerDomaineTempier.“Anyrainisimmediatelywindblowndry,avoid-ingrot.”Thewindissostrong,however,thatitcanripapartuntrainedvinesorevenwholevineyardsplantedontheunprotectedplains.Terracedsitesonlimestonebluffsoverlookingtheseaareideal,asfoundinBandolandCassis, though the largest grape-growing areas stretch all thewayfromthecoasttothemountains.

Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, CoteauxVarois, andCôtes de Provenceare themajorsubappellations, supplying theworldwithdry,understat-ed rosés. Les Baux-de-Provence, the first FrenchAppellation d’Origine

Salade Niçoise (top left); Provençal herbs and spices (top right); ratatouille (middle); slow-roasted shoulder of lamb stuffed with herbs (above).

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Sommelier Journal 47

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Contrôlée (AOC) torequirebiodynamic farming,producesseriousredsinaddition to rosés.The tinyPaletteAOC,northofMarseille, ishometoChâteauSimone,producerofthetopwhitewinesinProvence.Cassisisalsobestknownforitswhites.Thesmall,steeplyslopedBelletAOC,producingwinesofallthreecolors,sitsontheeasternedgeoftheregion,justoutsideNice.Vins de paysarewidelyavailableintheu.S.marketandrepresent the Provençal characterwell, but because this category oftenendsupinthechainsatadiscount,it’swisetodoaretailsurveybeforemakingacommitment.

Although therewas apush towardplanting international varieties,especiallyCabernetSauvignon,overthelastdecadeorso,thefocushasrecentlyshiftedbacktoindigenousgrapes,severalofwhicharenotgrownelsewhere inFrance.Top-labelwhitesareoftenblendsofseveralvariet-ies, includingBourboulenc, Rolle, Clairette,GrenacheBlanc, Viognier,Marsanne,SauvignonBlanc,Sémillon,ugniBlanc,andChardonnay,butvins de paysareoftenvarietallyfocused.GrenacheandSyrahfactorheav-ilyintorosésandsimplerreds,withMourvèdreprovidingthestructureandlongevityforpremiumreds,mostnotablyBandol.Althoughred-wineproductionisclimbinginBandol,Bellet,andPalette,75%ofthebottlingsintheseareasarestilltheubiquitousdryrosés.

“Crisp,dryrosésandforcefulredsarewhattheregionisknownfor,”saysimporterFranKyselaofKyselaPereetFils.VictorOwenSchwartz,ownerofVOSSelections,saysheimportsProvençalwinesbecause“theyhavebright,cleanflavorsandareterroir-driven,notoak-driven.”

Sommeliers’ choiceThequalityofwinemadeinProvencetodayowesmuchtothepio-

neeringspiritofDomaineTempier’sPeyraud,whohelpedorganizeaBan-dolproducers’syndicateandurgedtheAOCtorequireMourvèdreasthebasisofBandolrouge.PeyraudhadlearnedthatmostofthevineyardswereplantedtoMourvèdrebeforephylloxerawipedthemout,andthatthegrapeaddsaheartyrichness,afirmstructure,andaflashof sauvage to thesofter, prettier Gren-ache. Over the years,the Peyrauds have ac-quired three old-vineMourvèdrevineyards—

(text continued on p. 52)

Les Baux-de-Provence village (left); port of Bandol (center); Nice carnival (right).

Calanques harbor in Cassis (top); vineyards in Vaucluse (above); Château Peyrassol vineyard in Flassans-sur-Issole (below).

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September 200948

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white

Château Routas Viognier Vin de Pays du Var Coquelicot  2007  $16Pale-straw-coloredandslightlyspritzy,thisrich,tropicalwhitehasnotesofpeach,mango,litchi,tangerine,honey,limestone,andacacia.Althoughit’sfairlyweighty,arefreshingaciditykicksinatthefinish.

Château Simone Palette Blanc  2006  $60Brightgolden-yellow,withambertingesindicatingmaturity.Onthenose,thissubtle,complexwhitedisplaysnotesofhoneydew,marzipan,rosemary,thyme,lemongrass,hay,andchalk.Roundandcreamyonthepalate,ithasthatsoft,sexygrasoffineBurgundy(orfoie),alongwithbright-lemon,peach,toasted-almond,andmineralnotes;gentleyetpersistentacids;andaseatang.it’selegant,understated,delicate,abitmysteri-ous,anddefinitelyhaunting.

Domaine de Triennes Viognier Vin de Pays du Var Sainte-Fleur  2007  $16Brightstrawincolor,withanoseofclean,freshlemon,lime,honey,nectarine,apricot,mango,banana,papaya,pineapple,andslate.Thiswineismedium-bodiedandintense,showingapleasant,roundcreaminess,thoughbriskacidswakeupthepalatelikeasplashinthesea.

Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Blanc  2007  $24Brightstraw-yellow,withuniquearomasofpineneedle,driedbrush,sage,lemonzest,acacia,andhoney.Onthepalate,itismedium-bodied,clean,anddelicate,withdriedherbsandlemonzestandalongpine-needle-sea-mistfinish.Theacidsarebrightandpersistent,butgentle.

Domaine du Gros’Noré Bandol Blanc  2008  $32Pale-straw-coloredandmoderatelyviscous,witharomasofhoney,lemon,peach,apricot,andwhiteflowers.Thepalateismedium-bodied,showingpink-grapefruitandchalknotes;bright,freshacidity;andtarandgingerbacknotes.Thisdry,elegantwinehasechoesofwhitenectarineandrosewateronthelongfinish.

Mas de la Dame Coteaux d’Aix-en-ProvenceLa Stèle Blanc  2006  $22MasdelaDame’swinesarecertifiedorganic(agriculture biologique).Thisblendof80%Rolle(Vermentino)and20%Clairetteisabrightgolden-yellow,withnotesoflemoncurd,peachnectar,lily,lavender,cinnamon,andalmondbiscotti(cantucci).Medium-bodied,bold,fresh,anddry,itfeaturesbanana,starfruit,guava,andlimeflavors;pricklyacidity;andalong,peach-mineralfinish.

outstanding recent releases

Domaine de la Bégude cellar (top) and vineyard (middle top) in Le Camp du Castellet.

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Sommelier Journal 49

provence

rosé

Château de Pibarnon Bandol  2008  $30Brightorange-pink,withintriguingaromasofpricklypear,tar-ragon,sage,basil,redlicorice,lemon,guava,starfruit,chalk,andslate.Onthepalate,it’sbig-bonedandrichlyflavored;thefruit-herb-mineraltrioshownonthenoseisjoinedbynotesoftarandseaspray.Zestyaciditydefinesthefinish.

Château Peyrassol Côtes de Provence  2008  $14Brightyellow-pink,withalightnoseofstrawberry,candiedvio-lets,wildflowers,sour-applecandy,andpinkgrapefruit.Asoft,luscioustextureisbalancedbyunderlyingacidityandfine,pithyfruittannins.Verydelicateandelegant.

Château Riotor Côtes de Provence  2008  $14Finishedwithasleek,silverscrewcap,thisbright-copper-pinkwinedeliversnotesofstrawberry,lime,watermelon,thyme,androsemary.Althoughthetextureisfleshy,thejuicyacidsaddbalance,andthefinishislonganddry.

Château Routas Coteaux Varois Rouvière  2008  $14Paleyellow-pink,witharomasofstrawberry,chalk,lemon,nectarine,applepeel,orangezest,andhay.Onthepalate,thiswineisbonedry,withrefreshinglight-raspberryfruitandracy,mouthwateringacidity.Bringonthegarlic.

Domaine de la Bégude Bandol  2008  $30Brightyellow-pink,withenticingaromasofstrawberry,pome-granate,grapefruit,watermelon,key-limepie,Meyerlemon,jasmine,honeysuckle,nutmeg,andgreentea.Thetextureisfineandsilky,caressingthepalatelikeatopMeursault.Thiswineisvibrantlyflavoredandtangy,withnotesofberry,watermelon,kumquat,andstarfruit.Complete,complex,andbalanced,withfreshunderlyingacidity,ithasthatrarecombi-nationofdepthandgrace.

Domaine de Triennes Vin de Pays du Var  2008  $16Thisbeautiful,copper-pinkpiratecapturesthesenseswithitslivelynotesofrosepetal,peach,strawberry,wildflowers,sage,andbrush.Roundandsilky,itfinisheswithalovely,chalkygrip.

Domaine du Gros’Noré Bandol  2008  $32Palecopper-pinkandmoderatelyviscous.Thenosefeaturesnotesofstraw,rosewater,strawberry,andpeach.ThepalateisbonedryandAlpinefresh,withbrisk,lemonyacidity;aveinofchalkyminerality;andalonglemon-berry-rosefinish.

Domaine Tempier Bandol  2008  $28Vibrantsalmon-pink,witharomasofsourcherry,strawberry,watermelon,lemon,andfreshlygroundandwholeblackpepper-corns.Onthepalate,thisfull-bodiedroséoffersbrightwater-melon,strawberry,apricot,andlemonnotes;it’smouth-pucker-ingandbig-boned,withtartacidsandgrippingfruittannins.

outstanding recent releases

Domaine du Gros’Noré winery (top) and vineyard (middle top) in La Cadière d’Azur.

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September 200950

rosé

Domaines Ott Côtes de Provence Château de Selle  2007  $42Bright,tawnyyellow-pink,witharomasofdriedfruits,goldenraisin,Boscpear,honey,sulfur,andtar,thisroséissoftandthickinthemiddle,offeringsubtlefruit,softcitrus,honey,andherbnotes.Tartacidskickintoprovidestructureandbal-ance,andthefinishisraspberry-imbued.Thisistheultimate“wearenottryingtoimpressyou”wine—takeitorleaveit.

Domaines Ott Côtes de Provence Clos Mireille  2007  $42Brightyellow-peach,withintensearomasofraspberry,straw-berry,pinkrose,driedherbs,hay,andsand.Thewineismedi-um-bodied,offeringnotesofstrawberry,cherry,watermelon,herbs,andtarcarriedbyjuicy,refreshingacidity.

Domaines Ott Côtes de Provence Les Domaniers  2008  $19ThisisOtt’svalue-pricedrosé,andalovelywineforthemoney.itisgolden-salmonincolor,withanenticingnoseofstrawber-ryjam,peach,redlicorice,banana,seasalt,mint,andchalk.Themedium-bodiedpalateishighlightedbyprettyberryandpeachnotesandgentlycleansingacidity.

Jean-Luc Colombo Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence Cape Bleue  2008  $1240%Syrah,40%Mourvèdre,20%Counoise.Colombo’sroséisbrightcopper-pink,featuringin-your-facearomasofJuicyFruitgum,banana,sour-applecandy,watermelon,pinkrose,andorangemarmalade.Medium-bodied,withaheavyhitofboldfruit—sourcherryandlemondrop—ithasalong,juicyfinish.

Mas de la Dame Les Baux-de-Provence Rosé du Mas   2008  $14Thisblendof50%Grenache,30%Syrah,and20%Cinsaultisapalepink,butshowsripe,up-frontnotesofwatermelon,cantaloupe,strawberry,lemon,andchalk.Cleanandfresh,withjuicyacidity,ithasbrightwatermelonflavorsbalancedbyabitter-lemonedge.

Xavier Flouret Côtes de Provence Nationale 7  2008  $2245%Grenache,40%Cinsault,15%Tibouren.Abright,paleyellow-pink,thiswineoffersvividnotesofstrawberry,lemon,RedDeliciousapple,Asianpear,pomegranate,nectarine,haybale,andseashell.it’smedium-bodiedandsilky,withdeca-dent,brightfruitatitsvelvetycenter,althoughtangynotesoflemonandgrapefruitclamorforattentiononthefinish.

outstanding recent releases

Château de PibarnonComte de Saint Victor83740 La Cadière d’Azur+33-494-901273www.pibarnon.comImporter: Michael Skurnik Wineswww.skurnikwines.com

Château PeyrassolRN 783340 Flassans-sur-Issole+33-494-697102www.peyrassol.comImporter: Rosenthal Wine Merchantwww.madrose.com

Château Pradeaux676, chemin des Pradeaux83270 Saint-Cyr-sur-Mer+33-494-321021www.chateau-pradeaux.comImporter: Rosenthal Wine Merchantwww.madrose.com

Château RiotorBP 1084231 Châteauneuf-du-Pape+33-490-837275www.chateauriotor.comImporter: Kobrand Corporationwww.kobrand.com

Château RoutasRoute de Barjols83149 Bras+33-498-052580www.chateauroutas.com

Château Simone13590 Meyreuil+33-442-669258www.chateau-simone.frImporter: Rosenthal Wine Merchantwww.madrose.com

Domaine de la BégudeRoute des Garrigues83330 Le Camp du Castellet+33-442-089234www.domainedelabegude.frImporter: Kysela Pere et Fils, Ltd.www.kysela.com

Domaine de RégusseRoute de la Bastide des Jourdans04860 Pierrevert+33-492-723044www.domaine-de-regusse.comImporter: Kysela Pere et Fils, Ltd.www.kysela.com

Domaine de TriennesRN 56083860 Nans-les-Pins+33-494-789146www.triennes.comImporter: The Sorting Tablewww.thesortingtable.com

Domaine des Terres Blanches79100 Oironterres-blanches.frImporter: Beaune Importswww.beauneimports.com

Domaine du Bagnol12, avenue de Provence13260 Cassis+33-442-017805Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchantwww.madrose.com

Domaine du Gros’Noré675, chemin de l’Argile83740 La Cadière d’Azur+33-494-900850www.gros-nore.comImporter: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchantwww.kermitlynch.com

Domaine TempierLe Plan du Castellet83330 Castellet+33-494-987021www.domainetempier.comImporter: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchantwww.kermitlynch.com

key producers

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Sommelier Journal 51

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Château de Pibarnon Bandol  2005  $59Richruby-garnetintheglass,withnotesofplum,tar,pancetta,andstewedtomato,thewineissoft,round,andearthyatfirst,butthenslightlygrippingfruittanninsandfreshaciditykickin.ThisBandolisshowingitsmaturity.

Château Pradeaux Bandol  2003  $30Bright,lightlysaturatedruby-garnet,withagoodone-fourth-inchrimvariationconfirmingitsage.Thecomplexnosefeaturesaromasoffreshlypolishedwood,mocha,vanilla,raisin,fig,cherrycobbler,strawberryandraspberryjam,stewedtomatoes,tar,sage,andmenthol.Thepalateismedium-bodied,wellstruc-tured,andslightlygrippy,withripeberryfruit,mildoaktan-nins,andlingeringflavorsofcedar,tar,lavender,andpeach.

Château Routas Syrah Vin de Pays du Var Cyrano  2005  $16Despiteitsage,thiswineisvividlycolored,sendinguparomasofblacktea,orangezest,raspberry,cherry,tar,mineral,andsmoke.Thepalatefeaturesbrightboysenberryandfignotesandgentlygrippingfruitandoaktannins.Overall,thewineiswellstructuredandfairlydelicate,withalongfinish.

Domaine de la Bégude Bandol  2005  $39Deep,vibrantcrimson-rubyincolor,withforthrightaromasofcassis,plum,boysenberry,bramble,crushedleaves,bakingspice,cedar,andvanilla,thisBandolisbeautifullybalancedandelegant.Notesofdarkberries,sourcherry,driedleaves,driedmushrooms,andcedaremergeonthepalate.Onthefin-ish,theMourvèdrekicksintogearwithgrippytannins,butthejuicyaciditylendsbalance.

Domaine de Régusse Pinot Noir Vin de Pays des Alpes-de-Haute-Provence  2007  $12Thislight-rubyredhassexynotesofcherry,raspberry,straw-berry,rosewater,bramble,andbrush.it’sdelicateandsilky,thoughwithfarbrighter,jammierfruitthanisfoundinitscounterpartsupinBurgundy.Lovelymineralbacknotesroundoutthewine,andrefreshingacidsbringeverythingintobal-ance.Excellentvalue.

Domaine des Terres Blanches Les Baux-de-Provence  2005  $20Bright,vividrubywithapinkmeniscus,thiswinedisplaysnotesofrosepetal,blackcherry,wildstrawberry,cassis,cedar,graphite,andredsoil.itismedium-bodiedandwellstructured,withpithyfruittannins,softoaktannins,andbrightacidity.AquintessentiallyMediterraneanwine,ithasmorebitethanaBordeaux,butismoreelegantandabitlighterthanaBandol.Becauseitisstillquiteyoung,decantingisrecommended.

outstanding recent releases

key producers Domaines OttChâteau de Selle à TaradeauRD 7383460 Taradeau+33-494-475757Clos Mireille à La Londe-les-MauresRoute de Brégançon83250 La Londe-les-Maures+33-494-015350www.domaines-ott.comImporter: Maisons Marques & Domaines, Inc.www.mmdusa.net

Jean-Luc ColomboPied de la Vigne07130 Cornas+33-475-403609Importer: Palm Bay Internationalwww.palmbay.com

Mas de la DameCD 513520 Les Baux-de-Provence+33-490-543224www.masdeladame.comImporter: Palm Bay Internationalwww.palmbay.com

Xavier FlouretImporter: Cognac Onewww.cognac-one.com

Catherine Fallis, aka “Grape Goddess,” is the fi rst woman in the world to have earned both the Master Sommelier diploma from the Inter-national Court of Master Sommeliers and the Advanced Certifi ed Wine Professional diploma from the Culinary Insti-tute of America. She is founder and president of Planet Grape LLC (www.planetgrape.com), a wine consulting fi rm provid-ing education, content, sommelier services, and innovative custom cellar systems from Revel Cel-lars for restaurants, wine bars, retail locations, and personal collections.

Domaines Ott Clos Mireille cellar (top).

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September 200952

Tourtine, Migoua, and Cabassou—which theybottle individually to great acclaim. These aretheunofficialgrandscrusofProvence.

Commercial wines have also improved,thoughtheywouldprobablysell justaswell inanycase to the thirstymasses.“ifirstcametoProvence in 1985, and i have been back therejustabouteveryyearsince,”saysKysela.“Whatihavenoticedistheincreaseinqualityacrosstheboard.Thewinemakershavemoretrainingandfocusonuniqueterroirs.Fortunately,Provenceisstilloneregionoftheworldwherethewineshavenotyetbeen‘internationalized’toanygreatdegree.”

While sommeliers have virtually unlim-itedoptionsthesedayswhenitcomestorosés,Provenceisamustonanylist,especiallyiftheestablishment serves Provençal-inspired cui-sine. Thewhites, especially those fromCassisandPalette,areunique:floral, fresh,andmin-eral-laden.AccordingtoKysela,CassisBlancistypicallypairedwithbouillabaisse,whileCôtesdeProvencewhitesarebestwithgrilledmeatsandvegetables,oftenpreparedwithlocalherbs.KyselarecommendsBandolrougewithSisteronlamb and Bandol roséwith the popular black-olivetapenadeormonkfish-liverpurée.

French wine importer and merchant Ker-mitLynch,anotedproponentofterroirandsub-tlety, adds, “i think regionallywheni thinkofwine-and-foodcombinations,becausethewineandcuisineofanyregiongrewuptogetherandmakemagic together. i love the smell of Pro-vençalherbslikethymethatyoucanfindinthewines,andthereis,asinsomeitalianwines,aslightbitternessthatmakesthemsogoodwithtomato-based dishes and garlicky concoctions.Thetanninoftheredsisrightwithredmeats,therosésperfectwithfishandpork.AgoodPro-vençalredlikeBandolisgoodyoung,old,andinbetween.”

September 2009

deProvencewhitesarebestwithgrilledmeatsandvegetables,oftenpreparedwithlocalherbs.KyselarecommendsBandollamb and Bandol roséwith the popular black-olivetapenadeormonkfish-liverpurée.

French wine importer and merchant Ker-mitLynch,anotedproponentofterroirandsub-tlety, adds, “i think regionallywheni thinkofwine-and-foodcombinations,becausethewineandcuisineofanyregiongrewuptogetherandmakemagic together. i love the smell of Pro-vençalherbslikethymethatyoucanfindinthewines,andthereis,asinsomeitalianwines,aslightbitternessthatmakesthemsogoodwithtomato-based dishes and garlicky concoctions.Thetanninoftheredsisrightwithredmeats,therosésperfectwithfishandpork.AgoodPro-vençalredlikeBandolisgoodyoung,old,andinbetween.”

red

Domaine du Gros’Noré Bandol  2006  $36Thisslightlyhazy,well-saturatedruby-redwineofferscomplexnotesofwildstrawberry,plumcompote,cherrycobbler,blacklicorice,anise,spearmint,tarragon,lavender,vanilla,androastedcoffeebeans.itisfull,round,deeplyfruity,andfairlyoaky,bal-ancedbylivelyacidsandseamlesslyintegratedtannins.

Domaine Tempier Bandol  2006  $38Slightyhazyandamoderatelysaturatedruby-red,thiswineoffersaromasofblackcherry,raspberry,mulberry,roses,andblackandgreenpeppercorns.itismoderatelyfull-bodied,withpithyfruittannins,darkfruit,andpepperyspice.AlthoughpastreleaseshavereallyshowntheirMourvèdremeatiness,thisver-siononlyhintsatthat,softenedbylayersofcompoteandblackpepper.Despiteitsslightgripandspiciness,it’soneofthemoreelegantbottlingsihavetastedfromTempier.Pricesareestimatedretail.

outstanding recent releases

Château de Pibarnon estate (top left) and vineyards (top right, above) in La Cadière d’Azur.