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AROMATHERAPY
Aromatherapy comes from two Greek
wordsAroma : meaning fragranceTherapy: meaning healing
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Aromatherapy
Aromatherapy is a form of energetic healing and balancing of thephysical, mental, emotional and spiritual states of the body.
The powers of these essential oils are used for;1. Therapeutic treatment for various systems of the body2. Esoteric emotional and spiritual state of the body3. Holistic incorporates the healing of the physical, mental, and
emotional4. Scientific study of fragrance perfume and cosmetic chemistry
Essential oils affect the limbic system in the brain so therefore how weTHINK and how we FEEL.
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Absorption
Three ways of absorption:
1. Inhalation occurs through both the lungsand the nose.2. Skin absorption through massage. (liquid)
3. Ingested . (liquid)
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Inhalation via the NoseInhalation: via oil burners, essential oil candles and incense.Large amount of the aroma will pass up through the nose andmake its way through the olfactory cilia, into the olfactory bulbwhere the odour is processed.The processed olfactory messages are sent to two parts of the
brain.Thalamus, the first region where sensory processing occursand it allows us to identify a particular smell .Hypothalamus , the second region forms part of the limbic brainwhich is responsible for smell related emotions and
behaviours as well as hormone regulation, digestive activity,blood pressure, respiration and regulation of heart rate andsexual responses.The inhaled oils will have an affect on the physical andpsychological aspects of clients.
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InhalationHypothalamus
Cilia
Olfactory bulb Thalamus
Cerebral cortex
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Inhalation via the Lungs
The therapeutic value of essential oils arealso inhaled by vapour into the lungs.The vapour enters the bloodstream throughthe lungs.Lungs have a large surface area, high bloodflow which allows for a greater rate ofabsorption.The therapeutic value of the essential oil isdelivered to all organs for healing.
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Liquid absorption
Liquid absorption occurs through the dermis ororal ingestion.Essential oils are blended with a carrier oil andmassaged into the face or body.
Absorption of essential oils occurs through thedermis of the skin and enters the blood stream
via the cutaneous capillaries.The oils will first reach areas of high blood flow,therefore skeletal muscles, kidneys and liver andthen other body tissues and organs.
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Skin Absorption
Absorption through the skin is slower than thelungs.Factors affecting absorption include the
following:1. Temperature of the skin.2. Skin condition, eg. Eczema or psoriasis.
3. Viscosity of the essential oils and cold pressedoils used.4. Area/s of body where products are applied to.
e.g. The epidermis is thinner on the face than the
soles of the feet and palms of the hands.
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E x c r e t i o n
Aromatic plant oil
Liquid Vapour
A p p l i c a t i o n
Massage Inhalation
A b s o r p t i o n
skin nose lungs
muscletissue
brain
joints chemicalrelease
blood stream mental emotional effect
liver,pancreas
body tissues andorgans
reproductive organs
skin kidneys lungs
bladder
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Methods of Extraction
Essential oils are extracted from a variety ofplant sources such as:
Petals, leaves, seeds nut kernels, bark, stalks, flowerheads, gums and resins from trees.
The main methods of extraction of essential oilsinclude:
DistillationEnfleurage
MacerationExpressionSolvent Extraction
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Distillation
Distillation is done with plants that can not be damaged byheat.
Distillation can be done either with water (old method) or bysteam (more common now) or both.
The principle of distillation by steam is that high pressuresteam is passed from a boiler through pipes into a still.
The principle of distillation by water is that the still is filledwith water then brought to the boil and converted into steam.
Either way, the steam goes through a vessel containing theplants to be distilled. The steam, now carrying the particles ofessential oil, then goes through a cooling system into anothercontainer where the water and oil separate out because oftheir different densities.
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Plant material
Steam inlet
Essential oil from top ofSeparator
Cold water into Condenser
Cold water out ofCondenser
Hydrosol from bottom ofSeparator
Steam and essential oil
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Methods of Extraction
MacerationThis is a process for plantswhich do not generate
essential oils afterharvesting.Flowers are soaked in hotoil to break down the cells,releasing their fragranceinto the oil, which is purifiedand the aromaticsextracted.
ExpressionThis is used to extract citrusessences from the peel of
lemon, orange, tangerine andbergamot.The peel is broken down bypressing and the resultantliquid is absorbed by
sponges, from which it is thenexpressed.
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Solvent Extraction
The raw materials are covered by a solvent such asether, benzene, petroleum, hexane or acetone andthen heated to extract the essential oil before thefiltration process.
After filtration, the oil which leaves a paste made upof wax and fragrance called concrete, then mixedwith alcohol and distilled at low temperatures.The alcohol absorbs the fragrance and when thealcohol is evaporated off an aromatic absoluteremains.
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Identifying plant oils
A genuine essential oil must have the following;Botanical name a latin name e.g. LavenderangustifoliaFamily name Lavender is from the LabiataefamilyGenus collective name for a group of plants
e.g. Lavender is Lavandula.Species is the specific name therefore typicalLavender is known as Lavandula Angustifolia
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Profiles of Aromatic Oilsor Essential Oils
In order to use aromatic plant oils safely and effectively youneed to determine oil profiles which include:
Plant information Botanical name
Origin of the plant where was it grown?Extraction methodParts of the plant used bark, peel, nut, leaf, flower, leaf orfruitCharacteristics of the oils, including the chemical components
and the noteProperties therapeutic qualitiesPrecautionsSynergy
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Therapeutic properties
The purpose of essential oils is to heal thephysical, mental and emotional bodies.The therapeutic qualities are determined by thechemical constituents or compoundsTherapeutic qualities are listed as;
Alterative,antiseptic,analgesic, anti-
inflammatory, antifungal, antiviral, astringent,carminative, cholagogue, diuretic,emmenagogue, rubefacient, sedative, woundhealing.
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Chamomile - Roman Plantinformation
Anthemis nobilis from the Asteraceae family, also known asEnglish chamomile, sweet chamomile and garden chamomile.
Origin A stocky perennial approximately 30 cm high with featheryleaves and daisy-like white flowers, native to but now widelycultivated.
Extraction Extracted from the flowers by steam distillation.
Characteristics Sweet, fruity odour, light clear blue colour with a wateryviscosity.
Note Middle
Components Angelic, Methacrylic, Butyric and Tiglic acids and Azulene.Properties pain reliever
skin conditioner
stress relief.
Precautions Can act as an emmenagogue so should not be used during
pregnancy.Synergy Bergamot
Lavender
Geranium
Tea tree
Lemon
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Quality of Aromatic Plant oils
There are many factors that affect the quality of oils suchas:the soil the plant has been grown inthe country in which the plant has been grownthe annual quality of the crop, which depends on climaticchangesthe way the plant has been grown, for example, organically orwith chemicalsthe way plants are collected and stored.
The price of an oil depends on:the country of origin, (quality of the crop and cost of labour)the numbers of plants required to produce commercial quantitiesease of collectionthe number of intermediaries in the trade.
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Classification of Oil NotesThere are three notes used to classify aromatic plant oils:1.
Top notesStrong, penetrating aromas , but also highly volatileThe first part of the fragrance that you noticedUsed to stimulate the body and refresh the mind
2. Middle notes
Less volatile.The majority of essential oils are considered middle notesand are used to give body a blend as they are longer lastingthan top notes.
Stabilises the mind and body3. Base notes
Least volatile substances which are used to give morepermanence to blends.Strengthening, relaxing and sedating to both the body andmind
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Ratios
Ratios are subjective and candepend on the following:
Personal preference of theclient for a particular aromaThe intended use of theblendThe size and age of theclient
The treatment requirements
A common starting point forthe ratio of essential oil tocarrier oil is 1:5 or 1ml ofessential oil to 5ml of carrieroil.
When dealing with children,the elderly or pregnantclients, you should adjustthe ratio to the lower end ofthe scale.Top notes 15-25%Middle notes 30-40%Base notes 45-55%
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An appropriate 1:5 blend for a 30 year old client whowas suffering from insomnia and wanted to relax with amassage would contain the following ingredients:
Ingredient Ratio Reason
Lavender 1 drop Top note with relaxingproperties.
Romanchamomile
1.5 drops Middle note with tensionrelieving properties.
Sandalwood 2.5 drops Base note used to treatinsomnia.
Almond 30 drops Non greasy fine textured oilwhich is easily absorbed.
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Blending
Essential oils are highly volatile substances, whichshould be handled, mixed and stored with care and usedsparingly.
Essential oils are blended with each other and otheringredients when used in beauty treatments dependingon the clients requirements and the method oftransmission into the body.
These ingredients used include: Carrier oils Emulsifiers and dispersants Additives Mediums
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Carrier Oils
Aromatic plant oils should never be applied directly tothe skin (with a few exceptions) they are blended withcarrier oils. Carrier oils are extracted from seeds andnuts and are cold pressed, which means no heat is used
when extracting the oil.
The reasons for using cold pressed oils are that they: Have therapeutic properties of their own
Help the absorption of essential oils into the skin Are rich in fatty acids and other nutrients.
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Carrier Oils
Carrier oils are used to dilute aromatic plant oils and aid transmissioninto the body.
They are vegetable oils in which aromatic plant oils easily dissolve.
Carrier oils for use in aromatic plant oil blends should be cold pressedto ensure that their beneficial fatty acids are not affected by theextraction method.
Vegetable oils for use in cooking are not suitable for use in aromaticplant oil blends since they are usually extracted by solvents and then
refined which destroys the therapeutic properties of the oil.
Mineral oils such as baby oil should not be used as they act as skinprotectors and form a barrier, making it difficult for the aromatic plant oilto be absorbed into the skin.
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Emulsifiers and Dispersants
Emulsifiers An emulsifier is a moleculeconsisting of a hydrophilic anda lipophilic part.It is used to produce anemulsion out of two liquids thatnormally cannot be mixedtogether, such as oil andwater.
Natural emulsifiers includeglycerin, carageenan andlecithin.
DispersantsDispersant is an agent that isused to reduce the surfacetension of two liquids.
In aromatic plant oil blends,dispersants are used todistribute the plant oil evenlyinto the surface of water.Dispersants prevent single
drops of aromatic drops ofaromatic plant oil from cominginto direct contact with skin,reducing the chance of asensitive skin reactions.
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Additives
Additives, such as infused oils and waxes,can also be used in aromatic plant oil blendsto enhance the benefits of the blend.Infused oils consists of a carrier oil that hasbeen infused with one or more herbs.Infused oil has the therapeutic properties ofboth the carrier oil and the herbs used in theinfusion.
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Other Mediums
GelsThere are a number ofdifferent gels which can
be used to enhance theeffectiveness ofaromatic plant oils.Eg. Aloe Vera
Clays Aromatic plant oils canbe blended with clay
masks to enhance theskin care properties ofa facial treatment for aclient with acne.
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Aromatic Plant OilChemistry
CompoundsFormed when molecules containing two ormore elements join together.Saturated compounds with single bonds.Unsaturated compounds with double ortriple bonds.
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C C C C C C
C
C
C C C C
Straight chains are represented as:
Branched chains are represented as:
Rings most commonly have 5 or 6 carbon atoms and are represented as:
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Aromatic Plant OilChemistry
Isoprene UnitMolecule consists of 5carbon atoms and 8
hydrogen atoms.Form progressivelyheavier and morevolatile chemicals.
Benezene RingMolecule consists of 6 carbonatoms formed into a ring withalternate single and double
bonds.De-localised ring referred towhen one of the electrons fromeach of the carbon atoms isable to move freely around the
ring.
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Chemical Components
Aromatic plant oils have a complex chemicalmake up. The main chemical components orconstituents include terpenes and the
functional groups which are: AlcoholsPhenols
Aldehydes
Ketones AcidsEsters
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Terpenes
Hydrocarbons which are based on theisoprene unit (C5H8). Terpenes can be categorised into:Monoterpenes = 2 isoprene units (C10H16).Sesquiterpenes = 3 isoprene units (C15H24).Diterpenes = 4 isoprene units (C20H32 ).
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TerpenesLimonene
Part of terpene family. Anti-viral propertiesFound in majority of thecitrus oils ( eg. orangeand lemon).
Pinene Also part of terpenefamily.
Antiseptic propertiesFound in juniper oil andcamphor oil.
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The Function GroupsAlcohols
Most beneficial ofaromatic plant oilconstituents as they have
low toxicity and pleasingodurs and low irritant.
Generally have antisepticand anti-viral properties.
CompoundsMonoterpenols= alcohol + monterpenes.
Antiseptic, anti-viral and anti-fungal propertiesTerpineol juniper and tea treeoilsLinool rosewood and lavenderoils.Citronellol rose and geraniumoils.
Sesquiterpenols= alcohol + sesquiterpenes.
Anti-allergen and anti-inflammatory properties.
Diterpinols= alcohol + diterpenes
Not often found in essential oils.Scalerol clary sage oil
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The Functional GroupsPhenols
Appear superficially similarto alcoholsVery strong chemicals and
should be used with care asit could be neurotoxic if usein large quantities.Exist in aromatic plant oilsas phenolic ethers.
AldehydesDervied from alcoholsthrough the process ofoxidation.
Anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory anddisinfectant properties.Slightly soluble in waterGenerally as volatile asalcoholsEasily oxidise to an acidicform and are often skinirritants.
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The Functional Groups
KetonesTheir names alwaysend in -one.
Some ketones can bevery dangerous, havingconvulsant properties.Oils high in ketonesshould be used withcare during pregnancy.
AcidsMostly water solubleThese are weaker thanmineral acids such ashydrochloric.
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The Functional Groups
EstersFormed by a chemical reaction between analcohol or phenol and a carboxylic acid(COOH).They are named after both of their originalmolecules. Eg. alcohols from ol to yl andthe acids ic to ate Provide the sweet or fruity aromas. Eg.Linalyl acetate found in lavender.
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Product Storage and Handling
Aromatic plant oils should be stored andhandled with care. Aromatic plant oils areclassed as volatile, which means theyevaporate easily.The storage and handling of productsdetermines to some extent their shelf life and
effectiveness.
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Product Storage and HandlingThe following are the guidelines for the storage and handling of aromatic
plant oils:Oils should be stored in a cool area away from direct sunlight and inamber coloured glass as they are damaged by ultraviolet light.Bottle caps should be replaced immediately after oils are decanted andclosed tightly.
Once the oil has been diluted with a carrier oil its shelf life is prolonged.Citrus oils have a shorter shelf life than other oils.If the smell of the oil changes and the carrier oil becomes rancid theproducts should be disposed of.Oils should be stored on impervious surfaces as they can damage
plastic, painted or polished surfaces.Care should be taken when using aromatic oils on children and dilutionsshould be lower when to children.
A strong dilution does not mean that the blend will be more effective. Itmay cause unwanted side effects. Product labelling should be followedat all times.
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Precautions Aromatic plant oils have general precautions
associated with them, however each client shouldbe assessed before a blend is recommended. Thefollowing factors are of particular importance when
choosing blend ingredients:PregnancySensitisationPhototoxicity
Client preferenceNeurotoxicHepatotoxic
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PrecautionsPregnancy
Certain oils should not be used during pregnancy as they caninduce labour.
SensitisationSkin can react to certain oils with an allergic type of rash,blistering or redness. If the offending product is persistently used,contact dermatitis may occur.
Client preferenceYou should establish if there are any particular aromas that aclient doesnt like.
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Precautions
PhototoxicityPhototoxic reaction, the skin absorbs more UV light andproduces abnormally dark areas of pigmentation and burning ofsurrounding skin. The pigmentation can last for years.When using phototoxic oils, care should be taken with dilutionsand clients should be advised to avoid exposure to the sun, sunbed or UV lamps for a period of 12 to 24 hours after the productapplication.These oils include: bergamot, angelica root, grapefruit, lemon,lime, mandarin and orange.
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Precautions
NeurotoxicSome essential oilshave the ability to cross
the blood-brain barrierand have a profoundadverse affect on thecentral nervous system.
These effects mayinclude convulsions andhallucinations.
HeptatotoxicRefers to compoundswhich can be toxic to
the liver.Damage to the liverthrough topicalapplication is rare since
only a small amounts ofpre-blended oils areused on the skin.
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Aromatherapy Massage
The general objectives foraesthetic aromaticmassage are:RelaxationSkin rejuvenationSkin healingRelief of muscular
tensionImproved sleepingpatterns
Massage movements:
Effleurage
PetrissageVibration
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Before the Massage
Do not soak in a hot bath as the oils willimmediately seep into the skin.Do not have a large meal just before any
massage as the bodys systems will have towork too hard at digesting to be thoroughlyrelaxed.Do not drink alcohol before a treatment.Do not exercise prior to a treatment.Do not have a massage if you have flu or afever or any serious condition.
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After the MassageLie still for at least five minutes before getting up.Do not bath or shower for at least three hours after atreatment to allow the oils to absorbed by the skinand then to detoxify the body.
Drink plenty of water. Avoid alcohol for at least twelve hours after thetreatment.Encourage relaxation strategies to reduce stress.
Eg. Buring oils, correct breathing, meditation ®ular massage.Increased exercise. Eg. Walking, swimming, yoga.Balance diet.
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Homecare Advice
If the client has purchased homecareproducts they should be advised:
Where to apply the productHow to apply the productHow much product to useHow often the product should be applied
When the product should be used time of day,after bathing.
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Adverse Effects
It is important to observe the clients reactions during thetreatment and encouraging them to tell you how they feelboth during and after the treatment.Client should be reminded of any contra-indications to
pre-blended oils used for homecare and also be advisedof any adverse effects. If they are in any doubt theyshould be encouraged to contact you.
Adverse effects can include:Extreme erythemaNauseaHeadachesDizzinessSkin reactions