2012 juornal

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2012 Professional development! Alberto Vanoli

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Day one - Milano

Saturday, March 24, 2012

The first days itinerary started at 7:00 p.m at night. Atthe Principe bar with an aperitif, we enjoyed a glass ofprosecco with some hors doeuvres, included crostinies

with smoked salmon, with goat cheese, prosciutto andmelon, olive ascolane (stuffed fried olives), arancini(fried rice ball),pizzette (small puff pastry pizza), and thenight shifted into the first dinner in Italy.

Dinner took place in the hotels restaurant, Acanto.

The menu was based on local regional foods of

Lombardia. It was composed of appetizer family style,pasta and risotto called primi piatti, main course based onmeat and dessert.

First course

The appetizers were traditional antipasto allitaliana,which comes with variety of appetizer and usually variesfrom regions to regions, here in the Lombardia many ofthem are meat based. This evening we shared plates oflocal cured meat, tartar of beef, insalata di nervetti- vealsalad, pesce in carpi one - marinated anchovies,mozzarella, and marinated vegetables

Second course

The food was a good representation of the of Lombardia.Dishes included Risotto alla milanese- Risotto cooked

with saffron, Casoncelli alla bergamasca - ravioli filledwith meat and sausage, dressed


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with butter, pancetta and sage, and Gnocchetti- Spinachand ricotta dumpling.

Third Course

The main course included veal shank ossobuco, breadedveal milanese style, and vegetable-cheese stuffed veal.

Fourth Course

Dessert also include typical Lombardia dish; Sbrisolona-almond and corn meal cake.

Torta paradiso - is a butter sponge cake and parfaitflavored with amaretti cookies.

W i t h t h e s e d i s h e s w eenjoyed local wines. Withthe first two courses we hada white wine Brol et ti noTrebbiano di Lugana grape,and Fracia a red Nebbiologrape.

Grom Gelateria


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Day Two - Langhe

Sunday, March 25, 2012

This 1st morning, we left Milan to Piemonte region. Firststop was in the small village of Tresio, to take look at oneof many Barbaresco producers. We visited the aziendaagricola Ca del Baio

Localita trestelle- Via Ferrere, 33 Tresio (CN)www.cadelbaio.com

Here we had brief look of wine cellars and tasted a few oftheir wine.

Tresio

is a small town in the province of Cuneo in the Piemonte.The name of the town came from the Roman, it means thethird, because this small town was located on the thirdmile on the way to France

Langhe nebibiolo

Size 0.75-1.5 lt

Area Tresio and Barbaresco

Exposure West

Grape 100% Nebbiolo

Winemaking Oak barrel

Soil Calcareous marl

BarbarescoValgrande

Size 0.75-1.5 lt

Area Tresio

Exposure West

Grape 100% Nebbiolo

Winemaking Oak barrel

Soil Calcareous marl

http://www.cadelbaio.com/http://www.cadelbaio.com/

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Our lunch took place in a local restaurant in the town ofTresio, the restaurant is calledLa Ciau del Tornavento

P i a z z a b a r o c c o 7 - 1 2 0 5 0 t r e s i o ( C N )www.laciaudeltornavento.it

Chef Maurilio prepared traditional dishes based on localingredients from Piemonte. His dishes were simple yet

beautifully presented and perfectly executed every detailswere carefully thought and every dish had a story to tell.

First courseGamberetti di Sanremo impanati nella donda gentile-shrimp from Sanremo coated

with local hazelnuts.

Shrimps were freshly moistand buttery in texture, thecoating was crunchy andhazelnuts complimented theshrimp perfectly. The chefexplained that he created thisdish after tasting the shrimpsin Liguria. The taste ofshrimps reminded him one ofthe local hazelnuts so he thought it wold be a perfectcombinations.

Carne cruda battuta al coltello - Tartar of beef choppedwith the knife.

Nocciola tonda gentiledelle langhe IGPCorylus avellana

Hazelnut from Piemonte

Includes the district ofthe province ofAlssandria, Asti, Cuneo,Novara, Torino, Vercelli,

between the Langhe hillsthe Roero hills and theMonferrato.

http://www.laciaudeltornavento.it/http://www.laciaudeltornavento.it/

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A classic preparation that very simply done, use of theknife to chop the meat, gave the dish a unique texture.

Vitello tonnato -Veal in tuna sauce

Another traditional appetizer of Piemonte; the veal wascook to a medium temperature to retain the pink color.The sauce was coarsely prepared and served on the side ofcurled slice of veal

Second course

Asparagi in tazza, uovo pochet, schiuma di parmigiano etartufo nero - asparagus poached egg, parmigiano foamand truffle

V e r y

d e l i c a t epreparation,

Atraditionalmatching off l a v o r s ,asparagus,e g g s a n dtruffle.

As para gu swere placedo n t h e

bottom of the bowl, and the egg yolk was warm andrunny, the egg white was whipped with milk, cream andparmigiano, then poured over the dish and baked at lowtemperature till texture became silky, foamy and smooth.

Third course

Cipolla al fornof a r c i t a d isalsiccia di Bra

a m a r e t t i ef o n d u t a - o v e nroasted onionss t u f f e d w i t hs a u s a g e a n dcheese fondue.

Every chef must have a moms recipe, this is chefMaurillio interpretation of his mothers dish. A slowroasted onions stuffed with a typical sausage from city ofBra, the stuffing had creamy mouth feel from fontina andtaleggio cheeses, it had sweetness from the onions andsome texture from pieces of sausage.

Salsiccia di Bra

The only sausage in Italy that isprepared by using vela as a leancomponent of the sausage and fattypart is pork.

Seasoning are sea salt, whitepepper, nutmeg, cinnamon,mace

Then sausage is placed in thinmutton casing


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Four course

Agnolotti del plin di seirass cotti nel fieno maggengo -Pinched ravioli filled with aged ricotta, cooked in haystock and dressed with alpine butter.

Agnolotti is also typical from Piemonte. This particularvariation of Agnolotti is called del plinwhich meanspinched, because the pasta is pinched between the fillingthen cut to the shape of agnolotti. This dish was verydelicate, the taste of the fresh and aged ricotta,combined

with the alpine butter is unique and full of flavor. Whatmade this dish so distinct was the cooking liquid. The chef

boil hay and wild thyme together to make an aromaticliquid, agnolotti cooked in this water picked up all theflavor. This agnolotti were presented cleverly in a nest ofhay.

Fifth course

Piccolo fritto misto alla piemontese - mix of savory andsweet fried preparations

Fritto misto is a typical Italian dish prepared in differentways, depending on what region you are in. This one is

Seirass

is a dialect word for ricotta in Piemonte. In this region,ricotta is done using the whey of local cheese sometimeswith the addition of a small amount of milk then drained inconical linen cloth. Seirass de fen means ricotta aged inhay. This ricotta is traditionally done in the mountain andtransported down to the valley, wrapped in hay to preventricotta from breaking.


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from Piemonte, very unique, consist long list of differentcut of meats and sweet items. The chef for this menumade only a small version of it; included lamb brain andmeat, apples, semolina flour dumplings, and amaretto

cookies.Sixth course

Formaggio con cogn - Cheese with wine mostcondiment.

This dish was very good selections of local cheese, andtypical condiment from Piemonte, which made withreduced grape most, quince, pears, figs, prunes andhazelnuts reduced to a sort of thin jam.

Seventh Course

Minestrone di frutta e verdura, sorbetto di mele- Fruitand vegetable salad with apple sorbet.

This was the perfect ending for a long meal like this one.Very fresh and refreshing. The chef mixed fruits andvegetables with moscato most. As strange it may soundspeas, carrots, cauliflower matched very well with berriesand other fruits.

At the end of the meal, we were served a digestive liquorcalled cedronella, the taste reminded me the limoncello.The liquor is similarly done by infusing the leaf of lemon

balm in alcohol, then mixed with simple syrup.


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Wines served with this meal were of course local winesfrom Piemonte;

Metodo classico coppo 2005

Barbaresco Cecilia Monte 2007

Barolo Pajana Domenico Clerico 2004

Moscato dAsti Saracco 2011


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Day Three -Torino and Parma

Monday, March 26, 2012

After a quick walk through to historic city of Torino, wehead to Eataly, you may know it from the same storerecently opened in New York City.

This is the original place, a market where youll find largevariety of traditional italian products. The market helpcustomers to find traditional products which theynormally wont find in regular stores, making thoseselected items available at reasonable price (I may have toargue about this, after seeing the prices at Eataly in New

York City) The philosophy behind this place is to sharethe goods and knowledge, also help the smaller producersto sell and promote their products.

Lets Be Smart

Seasonal product, taste better and cost less


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After a quick look of Eataly, we continued our journey tothe small town of Montbore, located in the Curone

valley. Here we visited a small cheese maker that producethis very historic cheese.

This cheeses history goes back to the end of 1400s, it wasalmost extinct since the last producer was closed 30 yearsago. The cheese has been brought back to life, thanks tothe presidium of slow food which contracted CarolinaBracco in 1999. Ms. Braccos is the last traditionalproducer of this cheese. Her skill was passed on to theanother producer whom studied ancient cheese makingtechnique.

The curios shape of the cheese, tiered just like a weddingcake, is inspired by the Montbore ancient tower. Thecheese is made with 70% of cow milk (originally made

with the Tortona caw milk, now this particular breed isalmost extinct) 25% of ewes milk. The milk curd is

broken two times with a wooden spoon, then place todrain into mould of three different sizes, then salted.Removed from the mould, three are stack on top of eachother like a wedding cake, and left to age for two weeks totwo months.

The Aroma of the cheese is a distinctive animal-like

fragrance, it appears milky and buttery, when you eat ittowards the end chestnuts and grass-like flavor emerges.The rind is smooth and moist and becomes dry and

wrinkly as the cheese ripens, the color ranges from whiteto straw yellow, the texture is soft and uniformed.


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Our lunch took place in the Vallenostra Agriturismo

Valle Mongiardino Ligure, (AL)www.vallenostra.it

The menu includedv a r ie ty o f l o c a ldishes, again this

was a very simplecuisine, home styleservice -typical oftrattoria. All thecheese, cured meats

vegetables , swinemeat from cintasenese breed, theovine meat, andtimorasso wine areproduced on site,every thing else ont h e m e n u a r eorganic productscoming from localfarmers.

(See video??)

First course

Salmuni dei nostri con fersulla calda - Cured meat withfocaccia, Insalata di fagiolane della val borbera - Large

white bean salad,La torta pasqualina - the Easter cake

Appetizer started with tasting of the local cheese includedRicotta, Mollano ru, mangiardina, cadetto, Montbore.

Mix of home made cured meats, two types of salame andlardo, all cure meats were made locally with free-ranged

pork cinta senese breed.

Salad made with large white beans, buttery taste withsilky thin skin. Tart is a traditional savory one, prepared

with ricotta and vegetable, the chef today use dartichokes.

http://www.vallenostra.it/http://www.vallenostra.it/

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Second course

Malfatti con la nostra ricotta e ragout vegetariano-Ricotta and spinach gnocchi with a vegetable ragout,risotto in salsa di Montbore-Risotto with Montborecheese and asparagus.

This course was simple yet full of flavors - gnocchi wasvery delicate and light. Risotto perfectly cooked. Localcheese beautifully complemented the preparations withits tingly sharp flavor.

Third courseBarberine al forno con salsine - Local cheese with homemade condiments, La nostra porchetta con patatequarantine-Roasted pork with potato.

The choices were one of the followings; baked cheese withfig spread and spicy pepper jam, or roasted pork wastenter and succulent, served with buttery bright yellowlocal roasted potato.

Fourth courseBunet al cioccolato- Chocolate and amaretti cookies,creme caramel, Torta di mele Carla-Apple tart

To finish the meal we had classic cream caramel whichflavored with cocoa and amaretti cookies, and a crumblytart topped with slices of warm local apples.


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Late in the afternoon we left Piemonte and enter theregion of Emilia Romagna. We went to visit a producer oftraditional cured meat in Parma, followed by a tasting oftheir products.

We visited the factory and store Fattoria di Parma viaE m i l i a O v e s t , 9 6 , 4 3 0 1 2 S a n g u i n a r o , P a r m a

www.lafattoria.it

Culatello di Parma

This is a traditionalp r o d u c t o f P a r m aprovince, made fromlarger group of leg muscleincluding top-round, eye-

round and bottom-roundsof hogs that are born andraised in both Lombardiaand Emil ia Romagnaregions.

The diameter is 20-25 cmand its length is about 40cm, and weight about 4.5kg. Those meats are agedfor 12 to 18 months, thecolor is red with whitesteaks of fat.

Legs are deboned, trimmed and tied, then hand seasonedwith mix of aromatics such as coriander, pepper, garlic,wine, potassium nitrate, ascorbic acid and 2.1% of salt.The legs rest for 12-15 hours then seasoned again and letit rest for 72-96 hours, the twine is removed then

wrapped in a pig bladder, tied again. The bladder is

poked and Culatello is aged for 2-3 months at 10-12Cthen transfer into cellars where it aged up to 18 months.

Fiocco di culatello

This is another type of cured meat, using the remainingpart of the leg from the earlier production of culatello,

Apply same ingredients and methods, but aged up to 12months.

Strolghino

This is another typicalcured meat from theprovince of Parma,

made from trimmedpart from the culatelloproduction. It is asalame, 20-40 cm longdepends on length of thecasing, weigh about200-300 gr. The salamehas distinctive largepieces of fa t , w el ldistributed in the meat

of red color.Ingredients are porkleg ,salt, pork casing andc o a r s e l y g r o u n d e dpepper. Meat and fat ares e p a r a t e d a n d c u t

accordingly. Mixed with seasoning and placemechanically in casing, then tied by hands.

http://www.lafattoria.it/http://www.lafattoria.it/

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Salame felino

This salame is about 6-7cm diameter, 30-50 cmin length, and weigh

800-1000 gr. It has agrayish exterior color.

When cut, it appears redin color with distinctive

white fat, the grain ismedium, and it is agedfor at least 20 days up to60 day

Ingredients: meat is from

the lean part of the lega n d t h e s h o u l d e r(70-85%), and fat from

j a w , l a r d a n d b e l l y(15-30%), salt (2.4%)and black pepper andgarlic, dextrose, andaddition of preservativesand antioxidant.

The meat is chopped

with machine and fat iscut by hand, dressed with

seasoning, then ground to amedium grain. Mixed and placed in casing,this casing isso called budello gentile, which is the last part of theintestine.

Dried at 17-22 C and 60-83% humidity for 4-7 days.

Aged at 15C with 77-90% humidity for 20 days.

Culatta or culatello con cotenna

It is made with the same leg part of the culatello but theskin is left on, this one is not wrapped in bladder likeculatello.

The half of culatello covered by skin, rest of the part isprotected by smeared fat, The diameter is 20-25 cm it islong 40 and weight about 5 kg it ages for 12 month up to18 month, the color is red with white steaks of fat.

After the leg is deboned and trimmed, it is tied andseasoned with salt, mix of aromatics which varies byproducer to producer, and additions of potassium nitrate,and ascorbic acid.

Every 2-3 days for 12-15 days the meat is massaged withsalt and aromatics. It ages for 2-3 months at 10-12C thenexposed part of the meat is rubbed with pork fat, thentransfer in cellars where it continue to age up to 18months.


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STROLGHINO

PROSCIUTTO DI PARMA

FIOCCO

SALAME DI FELINO

GRASSO DI CULATELLO

CULATELLO


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Day Four-Modena

Tuesday, March 27, 2012

This morning we travel to Modena to visit the acetaiaagriturismo, Paltrinieri

V i a V e r d e t a 1 1 4 1 0 3 0 S o r b a r a , ( M O )www.acetaiapaltrinieri.it

Modena and Reggio Emilia are the only two provinces inItaly that produce the aceto balsamico tradizionale. You

will find a large variety of so called balsamic vinegar inthe market, but only the specifically designed bottles canhave the name of Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di

Modena and Reggio Emilia. Those bottles also have theD.O.P. label which guaranties the authenticity of theproduct.

Aceto balsamico diM o d e n a o n l y produced in thep r o v i n c e o f Modena with theTrebbiano grapes.These grapes onlyc o m e f r o mp r o v i n c e o f Modena.

The minimum ageof Aceto balsamicodi Modena is 12

years. It is also sold as extravecchio which means aged for25 years. The same extravecchio can be tagged as riserva

DOP (Denominazione di OrigineProtetta)

designates a product, originatingfrom a region, whose qualities andfeatures are essentially orexclusively due to the geographical

environment.

Production, processing and finishingof the product must take place in therelevant limited area, complying witha clearly defined traditional recipe.

when it reach to 50 years. Since aceto balsamicotradizionale is done by constantly replenish older vinegar

barrel with newer vinegar, after many years it becomedifficult to establish the proper age of the vinegar.

This vinegar is made from the grape most and not fromthe wine. Only the aceto blasamico tradizionale D.O.P.,supervised by the consortium, it can be called assuch,otherwise it will be referred as condimentobalsamico. Aceto balsamico I.G.P(not tradizionale) isaged balsamic vinegar most mixed with wine vinegar.

IGP (Identificazione Geografica Protetta)

takes industrial development of the sectorinto account, by attributing moreimportance to production techniques withrespect to territorial restrictions.

IGP identifies a product originating from aregion, where quality, reputation, recipeand characteristics can be traced back to

its geographical origin.At least one production and/or processingphase must take place in the designatedzone of production.

http://www.acetaiapaltrinieri.it/http://www.acetaiapaltrinieri.it/

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Large barrels

Batteria

Final barrels

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Process for the aceto balsamico tradizionale

First step is to reduce grape most to about 50%, this isdone in an open vessel over direct flame, for about 30hours.

The reduced most is then placed in large barrels, whichcontains the mother vinegar, rich in acetic bacteria

The yeast will convert sugar into alcohol, the bacteria willthen transform the alcohol into acetic acid

The process of aging the vinegar is done in a set of barrelcalled batteria. Batteria is a series of 6-7 barrels, yieldingfrom 50-60 liters to 10-20 liters. These barrels are storedin the attic, usually in old farm houses, because of the hotsummer in this province. Moisture in the barres willevaporate.

The process of making balsamic vinegar is unique. Everyyear, moving small amount of vinegar from the largerbarrels to the smaller ones next to them. Barrels inbatteria are also replenished with new vinegar for theevaporated amount.

Vinegar from the last small barrels are stored in separateraw of barrels, these are the vinegars that aged aminimum of 12 years, these vinegar they will be pour to

tasted by the expert of the consortium and ready to bebottled.

(See video??)

The acetaia that we visited today is an Agriturismo, lunchwas served after the visit to the vinegar attics. The lady inthe kitchen, is a part of the family who runs theagriturismo, and she prepared traditional dishes from theregion for us.

First course

Lunch started with two classic dishes from the EmiliaRomagna.

R i s o t t o a l l ap a r m i g i a n a ,Parmesan risottodrizzled with aged

bas amic vinega rand tagliatelle alrag T a gl ia te l l epasta with a typicalragu alla bolognese.

Through out the

meal they servedtigel le with thepesto modenese.

Tigelle is a littleround bread cookedin a special pan.They are cooked toorder and served

hot. They are usually consumedby cutting them in a half andfilled with pesto modenese, themelting pesto flavors the bread


Pesto modenese is prepare bypounding lardo with garlic androsemary to a cremy consistency

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Second course

Was two varieties of meats, pork and chicken, bothcooked slowly in a pan with pancetta and milk. Both were

very tender, had a rich flavor from the pancetta and

butter. Milk gave the dish creamy sweet taste.

The whole meal was servedwith bottles of sparklinglanbrusco wine

Third course

Two home made desserts,chocolate cake and crumbly

tarts filled with prune jam.T h e d e s s e r t s w e r eaccompanied by grappaand nocino

Nocino is a liquor found in different areas of Italy, itobtains from the green hull of the walnuts. Usuallyprepared in the summer when the hull is green and soft,the hulls are first macerate in sugar then alcohol is added.The nocino rest for 6 months before it is bottled. Nocinocan be aged longer in wood barrels for more complexedflavor.

During the visit, we stopped by a few differentAgriturismo. Agriturismo is very common in Italy, itusually run by family who owns the property. Theyprovide local products, food, beverage and place to sleep.

They sustain agriculture activities in order to besupported by Italian government which provideincentives and funds to promote the Italian products andeconomy.


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Day Five-Bologna

Wednesday, March 28, 2012

After a visit to the local market in the morning, we took apasta class. Mina, is an native Bologna, invited us to herhouse where she showed us a traditional pasta making.

The pasta here isreferred as sfoglia,it is kneaded byhand, stretched byh a n d , c u t a n dshaped by hand.

The basic ratio isone egg per 100 grof flour 00 it iskneaded for 10-15minutes until all theingredients are wellcombined. Pastaneed to have feel ofs i l k y s m o o t htexture.

The typical set upfor pasta making isa hard wood boardapproximately 2 1/2x 4 in size, and a long rolling pin 2 -1/2 inch in diameterand long 3.

After a 30 minute rest of the dough, it was stretched withthis typical one meter long rolling pin. The dough was

constantly rolled and turned until the dough stretched tothe proper thickness. The sfoglia is now ready to shapeinto the pasta.

Pasta from this region are all shaped from this large sheetof dough sfoglia. Today we had a demonstration oftagliatelle and tortelli. Other typical pasta from the regionare; tagliolini, taglierini, garganelli, stricchetti, maltagliatiand quadratini. Also filled pasta such as tortellini, anolini,cappelletti, and tortelloni.

(See video??)As pasta takes its shape, we worked on the ragu at thesame time. The rag done in this region is the rag alla

bolognese, one of the most well know rag. In America itis so well known that any rag is referred incorrectly as

bolognese. Bolognese is a style of rag typical from city ofBologna, the capital of Emilia Romagna. The proper

wording should be Rag. Every rag is different, heyhave its own style, method of preparation and name.

This rag was done by cooking finely chopped mire poixwhich cooked in oil and finally processed pancetta, thenbeef and a small amount of sausage was added to the mirepoix. Tomato, bay leaf, stock and seasoning were addedand cooked for 2 hours. Mina was pointing out that howthe rag alla bolognese is a traditional sauce in thisregion, however, everybody here have their own variation.One certain common practice is that ragu is dressing thetagliatelle but not spaghetti.


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The following page shows photos of daily market inBologna. Markets are common everywhere and every daythey bring unbelievably fresh food to the public.

If you ever wonder why food in Italy is always taste good,

no-matter how fancy or simply prepared, when you standin front of one of these market, you will understand why.

(See video??)


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Day six-Firenze

Thursday, March 29, 2012

Today nothing was on the schedule, so I visit the localmarket. The San Lorenzo Market in via dellArientoFirenze. It is an indoor market that you can find freshmeat, fish, vegetables, fruit, cured meat of any kinds andcheese, olive oil and dry porcini mushrooms, food courtfor a quick bite of local food. As the previous photo showsthe market in Bologna, this market displays a largeramount of products and the quality is still top notch. I

want to point out a particular product of Firenze, beefstomach and offals in general, very typical and related to

the history and the people of this city.

This part of theanimal were served asfood since ancientt i m e . R e a s o n i ssimply did not wasteany food. It wascommonly consume da m on g the poor .Today it is still a parto f t h e F l o r e n c ecuisine. I found afood stand, selling the

L a m p r e d o t t o .L a m p r e d o t t osandwich. I came tounderstand it is a

very popular dish in

all over the Firenze enjoyed by Locals and tourists.Lampredotto is a part of beef stomach, the leaner part, itis boiled with aromatics until it gets tender and slicedover tuscan bread, dressed with salsa verde, a typicalgreen sauce made from parsley

(See video??)

And of course we couldnot leave the market

w i t h o u t l o o k a t t h e

f a m o u s B i s t e c c afiorentina, the T-bonesteak florentine style. It isa porterhouse steak, cut 11/2 inch thick, weighting 11/2 kg. Seasoned with seasalt and cooked rear ormedium rear, (they refuseto cook more done thanmedium rear), then slice

and served over the bone


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FINOCCHIONA

PROSCIUTTO TOSCANO

LARDO

PROSCIUTTO DI PARMA

DEER PROSCIUTTO

SALAME TOSCANO

PANCETTA

SOPPRESSATA

BOAR PROSCIUTTO

Cure meat is a typical wayto start the meal, everyregion offer a large varietyof local salumi, distinctivefrom one to another.

The photograph on the leftshows a plate with different

variety of salami andprosciutto.

With this appetizer, westart our meal with asparkling wine BerlucchiFranciacorta

Berlucchi 61 Franciacorta

Sizehalf bottle (375 ml), Standard bottle (750

ml), Magnum (1,5 l), Jeroboam (3 l)

Area Franciacorta

Grape 90% Chardonnay 10% pinot noir

Color straw yellow with greenish highlights.

Bouquetcrisp, fragrances of apple, pear and whiteflowers, notes of citrus.


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Day Seven-Perugia

Friday, March 30, 2012

Through the morning we traveled from Firenze to Umbriaregion. In Terni, we visit the Universita dei Sapori, it isone of the most recognized cooking school in Italy

Just before dinner time, we visit the Azienda AgricolaAntonellilocated on the hills of Montefalco in the heart ofthe Umbria Region

Localit San Marco, 50-06036 Montefalco (PG)www.antonellisanmarco.it

The property extend over420 acres, in the center ofMontefalco DOCG region.This hilly landscape is anideal microclimate for

v i n e y a r d s a n d o l i v egrooves.

Wines are made exclusivelyfrom organic grown grapes.The cellar is located belowthe manor house. Thefermentation vats receivethe crashed grapes bygravity, avoiding the use ofpumps.

T h e e s t a t e o f f e r sapartments for rent and a cooking school Cucina inCantina. This school provides course in Umbrian cuisineand wine tastings.

Dinner took place at the estate, we taste specialty fromthe region of Umbria paired with Estate wines.

http://www.antonellisanmarco.it/http://www.antonellisanmarco.it/

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First course

They served mixappetizers; freshp e c o r i n o f r o m

Umbria, Lonzino -cured pork loin,

Frittata di cipolle-o n i o n f r i t t a t a ,

bruschetta with theirextra virgin olive oil,

and pizza rustica- flat bread cut in half and filled withprosciutto

Wine for this course was the Grechetto dei colli Martanidoc

Grape 100% grechetto

Wine making

Grape and skin are allowed to separatenaturally, fermentation is at 18C. Wine iskept in contact with the yeast for 90 daysafter fermentation

Aging Stainless steel vat, bottle aging for 3 month

Tasting notestraw yellow, Fruity and floral with notes ofpeach, almond and hawthorn

Service

Temperature12C-54F

Size 0.75 lt

Second course

pasta di farro con le prime verdure, pasta was made withEmmer wheat, it was tossed with fresh vegetables, likezucchini, eggplant and aged pecorino cheese

Wine served with this dish wasMontefalco rosso doc

Grape65% sangiovese, 15% sagrantino, 10%merlot, 10% cabernet sauvignon

Wine making

Each varietal is vinified separately, usingthe force of gravity. Fermentation incontact with the skins for 14 days at 25C.Malolactic fermentation take place, wineclarifies spontaneously, no filtration

Aging

25hl Slavonian and Allier oak casks for 9months. The varietals are blended and thefinal wine settles in fibre-glass linedcement vats for 3 months, bottle aging for6 months

Tasting note

Deep ruby red with purple tints, cherry,plums and toasted aromas. In the mouth itis generous warm and beautifully balanced

Service

Temperature16C-70F

Size 0.75 lt, double magnum 3 lt


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Third course

A g n e l l l o c o npa ta te , the lastcourse was simple

r o a s t e d l a m b ,served with potato.

We often tastedlamb in this areaand meat is alwaysh a s b e e nincredible, verytasty, moist andtender - cooked simply in oven with just herbs, sea saltand garlic. Again it remind us how important it is to start

with good raw material.wine served wasMontefalco Sagrantino docg

Grape 100% sagrantino

Wine making

Vinification, using the force of gravity.Fermentation in contact with the skins for15-20 days at 25C. Malolacticfermentation take place, wine clarifiesspontaneously, no filtration

Aging

In lightly toasted 5 hl French oak for 6month, in 25hl Slovenian and French oakbarrels for 9 months. The wine settles infibre-glass lined cement vats for 3 months,bottle aging for 12 month

Tasting note

Deep ruby red. Complex notes of elegantfruits blackberry and plums, backed upwith sweet wood. repleted with red fruitand final tannins

Service

Temperature18C-64.4F

Size 0.75 lt, magnum 1.5 lt, double magnum 3 lt

Fourth course

pere cotte nel vino, ciambelline allolio,we finish the mealwith pear cooked in sagrantino, served with small cookiesmade with olive oil and emmer wheat. For their last

Fiber-glass lined Cement Vats


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course they served the dessert with a passito. Wineserved with this wasSagrantino di montefalco passito

Grape 100% sagrantino

Wine making

Vinification, using the force of gravity.Fermentation in contact with the skins for18 days at 25C.

Aging

In 10 hl Slavonian oak barrels for 15months. The wine settles in fibre-glasslined cement vats for 3 months, bottleaging for 12 month

Tasting note

Deep ruby. Blackberry, blackcurrant andraspberry jam, delicate taste, lovelybalance of sweetness and long length with

persistence of red fruitService

Temperature16C-70F

Size 0.375 lt, 0.75 lt.


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Day Eight-Perugia

Saturday, March 31, 2012

Black and white truffles are found in different areas ofItaly. Today we meet with Federico Balestra who is anowner of Sabatino Company. If you are using truffle inUSA most likely they are imported through his company.

We drove into one of his property, where we meet one ofthe truffle hunter and his dog Diana. Unfortunately this isnot the season for truffle hunt, we were only able to find ahandfull of truffle while we walked one hour.

Umbria is well known for the black truffles but whitetruffles are also found in this area.

The most prestigious black truffle Tuber melanostopumvittadinimature between November and March, it is alsocalled the winter truffle. During the summer you find

black summer truffle -Tuber aestivum, what we call inItaly theScorzone. Today we hunt a few pieces of summer

black truffles but because is too early in the season theydid not have very strong aroma, and the color of the gleba,the pulp, was still white.

(See video??)

Some of the differences from the winter and the summerblack truffles are of course price, which depending on theseason, the winter truffle always more expensive, morerear and required more specific condition to grow.

The winter black truffle has more deep dark brown-purplish pulp with very fine white veins, the summer oneshas lighter color especially early in the season. For bothtruffles shapes are globular, sometimes lobate, with

brown-black rind and tightly-spaced warts the externalcharacteristics are more pronounced in the summertruffle.

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Truffles are hunted by dogs, which they are trained sincethey were puppies. These dogs are very valuable,necessary to find truffles. Today, Diana found 10-12truffles, as mentioned before, it is too early in the season,normally she can find 3-4 pound of truffles in an hour.

Black truffle, especially the summer one, is easy to find,because they grow close to the surface, no need of digging.Also like mushrooms they grow next to each other sowhen you find one there are many others just around it.This is not the case with the more prestigious whitetruffles. They are usually deeper under the ground andthey grow all over the place without distinctive pattern.

One of the reason forthis tuber to sold so

expensively is that,they are very rear andhard to find. Trufflesare very delicate andr e q u i r e d p r o p e rcondition to grow,specific altitude, soil,a n d r i g h t P h ,humidity, water andproper exposure to thesun.

They also grow next tospecific trees, generallyoaks and hazel tree,

w h e r e t h e y s h a r eminerals, nutrients and

w a ter thro ug h theroots.

The chart above shows the biological cycle of truffle life. Itis through the mycrorhize - lamps that forms at the end ofthe roots, that mycelium - very fine tubes departs, whenmycelium find the proper condition in the ground, they

will form the truffle. When the truffle reach propermaturity it releases the characteristic aroma, animal willfind and eat it, spread the spore through their feces which

with the mycorrhize they will form a new tuber andcontinue the cycle.

For black truffles, since they grow so close to the surface,spores can also be spread by sheep grazing. The dirt withspore will get stuck in between the hoof and thereforespread thought the land.

Today, they were successful with the black trufflecultivation, unlike the white truffle which they haventfind a away to cultivate it yet. The cultivation is quitesimple process, yet it is not a guaranty that the truffle will

2012 Professional developmnent! Alberto Vanoli

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grow. As explained before it requires many specificconditions which makes all this hard to grow. The processof cultivating truffle consists in micorrhizing the roots ofthe plant when still young, then rely on the delicate cycleof the truffle life to do the rest.

Pasta cacio pepe e tartufo

As a conclusion of the trip, confirms the good food comesfrom great fresh ingredients, raised naturally, locally withpassion and care. As a chef, it was revitalizing to see howmuch effort is put into each product they produce, weshould always research for the best product, becausequality of the raw material can elevate our cuisine evenhigher. As a teacher, I should share this philosophy withmy students who are the ambassador of the future.Weshould teach students to understand highest quality andhistory of each product. Also we should introduce ourcustomer to better foods with clear understanding of eachcuisine.

At the Caterina de Medici, we are promoting Italiancuisine as best it can be out side of Italy with typical

recipes, research of the traditional dishes and selectedingredients. Dishes are prepared and served in ourcontemporary restaurant in a learning environment withour students.

2012 Professional developmnent! Alberto Vanoli

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