A BOAT INTERNATIONAL MEDIA PUBLICATION

MAY 2013

PlusFANTASY YACHTS: WHERE YESTERDAY & TODAY COLLIDE

INTERVIEW:TOM PERKINS ON TAKING RISKS

132'

5Radical Refits

INCREDIBLE TRANSFORMATIONS ADDING LENGTH AND LUXURY

PEACE & QUIET NOISE REDUCTION TRICKS

BE MINE LÜRSSEN’S FIRST MEGAYACHT REJUVENATED

SHOWBOATS INTERNATIONAL 102

EMOTIVE LIMESTONE ISLANDS, TROPICAL WATERS AND EXOTIC FLAVORS CREATE A SENSORY EXPERIENCE FOR GUESTS CRUISING

ABOARD PHUKET!BASED CHARTER YACHT CALISTO."#$" %& KARA MURPHY

ANDAMAN

PHO

TO B

Y KA

RA M

URPH

Y

A

of theTASTE

103 SHOWBOATS INTERNATIONAL

Ko Phi Phi Don lies uncomfortably warm beneath a shrunken, worn emerald cloak, and the humidity fills the salty, lazy air, licking all surfaces in its vicinity.

!"’# $ %.&., %'( (%)*'+## ,!'-+)# ./+) the restless rises of Ko Phi Phi Don, the largest of six limestone islands known collectively as Ko Phi Phi in Thailand’s Krabi Province. The island lies uncomfort-ably warm beneath a shrunken, worn emerald cloak, and the humidity, 90 percent and heavy as an anchor, 0lls the salty, lazy air, licking all surfaces in its vicinity.

I wipe moisture from the a1 deck table on 136-foot motor yacht Calisto as I sit sipping the day’s 0rst potent co2ee, breathing in perfume from my jasmine-and-rose welcome garland and taking in my surroundings. Before me is an imposter star—a light atop a nearby mast hung low against the island’s crown. Portside, to the northwest, cli2s peter down to form the trans0xed face of a forlorn puppy gazing toward an egg-shaped rock just o2shore, like a ball that has strayed just out of reach.

The previous evening, we motored 40 nautical miles southeast from Phuket’s Yacht Haven Marina, on the island province’s northeastern tip, and along its eastern coastline before delving further into the Andaman Sea. By the time we arrived here, in the quiet cove of Monkey Bay, I’d already passed out amid a cocoon of cool Egyp-tian cotton sheets, weary from a lengthy plane journey and lulled by calm waters and a dinner of fresh pan-fried white snapper, “sarong” prawns, smoked salmon salad and a 0ne French rosé.

With senses freshly alert, I smile and wait for sunrise, basking in the knowledge that, aside from an eight-strong

crew, I have this grand, beautiful vessel all to myself. Calisto began her life in 1944 as an YMS-1 class mine-sweeper, built for the U.S. Navy but transferred upon completion to the Royal Navy of Great Britain. In the early 1950s, the late Thomas Loel Guinness, an Irish tycoon and former Member of Parliament, purchased and trans-formed her into his personal luxury yacht. A prestigious French family was the next owner; when they sold her to Saigon-based entrepreneur Eric Merlin, they did so with the stipulation that she continue her glamorous life as a cruising yacht and not become stuck idly in port, spending her days as a tourist bar or restaurant.

And so in early 2007, she made the journey from France to Southeast Asia where she underwent a fairly extensive re0t—which included, among other things, repairing the hull, new paint, an interior re0t and joinery updating—before being relaunched as a Phuket-based charter yacht. Aside from one cabin, which once 0t both the captain’s and second o3cer’s cabins, the existing layout was maintained, and all seven guest staterooms were refurbished with the help of an interior designer selected by the owner.

Life in this tropical paradise seems to suit Calisto. This gracious lady is gloriously tethered to history through structure, 0ttings and old photos, and she stylishly beams in anticipation of future explorations. I join French Captain Philippe Cathala in the wheelhouse for a chat about the day’s activities and cruising itinerary. This room

these pagesCalisto’s classic lines stand out against the rugged, limestone cli's of Ko Phi Phi, while local long-tail boats, known as Ruea Hang Yao, maneuver through the tighter passages (right page). Calisto’s interior is Old World charm meets refined luxury and incorporates some of her original 1944 fittings, such as the bronze telegraph (above).

PHO

TOS

BY IN

GIM

AGE/

PAKH

NYU

SHCH

YY (R

IGHT

PAG

E); T

OUR

ISM

AUT

HORI

TY O

F TH

AILA

ND

(TO

P LE

FT);

KARA

MUR

PHY

(TO

P CE

NTE

R, T

OP

RIGH

T, L

OW

ER R

IGHT

, LO

WER

LEF

T AN

D B

OTT

OM

)

105 SHOWBOATS INTERNATIONAL SHOWBOATS INTERNATIONAL 106

Calisto moves on towards the 40-plus enchanting lime-stone islands of Phang Nga Bay in Phang Nga Province. Venture on the shores of James Bond Island, Ko Phing Kan, a location for The Man with the Golden Gun. Also nearby is the famed 66-foot-tall limestone rock Ko Tapu, which is thin at its base, then weirdly doubles in diam-eter as it rises out of the water (pictured far right). On the 0nal evening, Calisto anchors at Ko Hong, deliver-ing her guests back to Phuket the following day.

For keen divers, Captain Cathala recommends an itin-erary to the Similan Islands instead. A marine park, these nine small, low-lying islands—set approximately 55 nautical miles northwest of Phuket—are known for their exceptionally clear waters, beautiful corals and abun-dant sea life. A typical weeklong dive-focused charter picks up guests from Patong Bay, on Phuket’s touristy west coast, and visits the Similans as well as the Surin Islands, a 0ve-island archipelago located another 55

nautical miles north and also known for its excellent coral. Richelieu Rock, one of the Surins’ dive sites, lures underwater explorers with the possibility of whale shark encounters in March and April. Other cruising destina-tions aboard Calisto include Myanmar’s Mergui archi-pelago and India’s Andaman Islands, both of which, says Captain Cathala, o2er very good diving.

Calisto’s sister ship, Calypso—also built as a mine-sweeper and once owned by Guinness—facilitated the deep-water ocean explorations and studies of none other than Jacques Cousteau for nearly 40 years. John Denver even wrote a song about her, “Aye, Calypso, the places you’ve been to, the things that you’ve shown us, the stories you tell….” Exploring the ocean’s wonders alongside Cous-teau would have been an incredible experience. Although Calypso’s classy relative doesn’t have an underwater observation area or famous resident explorer on board, embarking on a semi-deep-sea adventure from her

polished vantages is still an exciting prospect. Following a 45-minute cruise, including a brief dinghy

jaunt into Phi Phi Leh’s Maya Bay, famous for its role in the 2000 movie The Beach starring Leonardo DiCaprio, we arrive at the formidable, lonely cli2s of Bida Nok. Captain Cathala and I enter the 82ºF water at the island’s southern end and swim north along a steep, cotton candy pink coral wall, sticking to a shallow depth of about 39 feet. Visibility is average, perhaps 33 feet, but I don’t spot any of the marine life that one of the dive books say should be here—leopard sharks, black tip reef sharks, Kuhl’s stingrays, bamboo sharks. However, the vibrant corals along with brilliant blue pu2er0sh, several anemone0sh and huge schools of other colorful 0sh make our 50 minutes under-water plenty enjoyable. And a couple other 0sh greet us back on Calisto as well, although this time part of a table laden with prawn Pad Thai, salad Niçoise with fresh chunks of local tuna and a spicy white snapper.

these pagesA combination of scenic hikes, secluded coves and prime diving spots—all hidden away from other visitors—are part of a weeklong, 205-mile cruising itinerary aboard Calisto in the Andaman Sea.

Captain Cathala and I enter the 82ºF water at the island’s southern end and swim north along a steep, cotton candy pink coral wall, sticking to a shallow depth of about 39 feet.

features a couple items original to the yacht: a beautiful bronze telegraph and magnetic compass. Captains would have used the former to relay desired speed to the mechanic, who would then adjust the speed in the engine room. Wheelhouse activities are, of course, much easier with modern equipment, and Captain Cathala says as soon as the tides have shi1ed in our favor we’ll cruise south around Phi Phi Don, past the impenetrable cli2s of uninhabited Phi Phi Leh, to the small nearby islands of Bida Nai and Bida Nok where we’ll scuba dive. And tonight we’ll anchor in Phi Phi Don’s southern bay, Ton Sai, which is much busier, but it will give Captain Catha-la’s antsy sole passenger the chance to go ashore for a walk whenever she likes.

Captain Cathala is likely accustomed to guests with rest-less energy. He tells me the owner occasionally brings his young family aboard for holidays, emphasizing that the yacht is well suited for family groups as it easily accom-modates three couples and some kids. “Sometimes the family lives abroad, like in America and Australia and Hong Kong, and they want to have a holiday in Phuket. [So all the families] will meet … together again on the boat.”

Our time in Ko Phi Phi is actually the 0rst leg of a family-friendly, weeklong cruising itinerary, which travels 205 miles of the Andaman Sea in a counterclockwise loop and allows plenty of opportunities for stretching one’s legs on beautiful beaches and kicking one’s 4ippers along-side colorful 0sh. Captain Cathala has drawn on 26 years and 106,000 miles of Andaman sailing experience to create this itinerary, which covers scenic highlights—top snorkeling spots, nature stops and hidden coves—while providing plenty of downtime to relax on and o2 the yacht.

To the southeast, in Trang Province’s Rok Island group, guests can explore Ko Rok Nok and Ko Rok Nai, setting o2 on a jungle walk up to a viewpoint, meandering along beaches and dri1 snorkeling over a coral reef at low tide. If tides are low enough at Ko Muk, also in Trang, you can wander through Tham Morakot, known as the Emerald Cave, a 263-foot-long, winding limestone cave that empties onto a beach with a glistening emerald-color pool. A1erwards, Calisto cruises to Bamboo Island, just north of Phi Phi Don, for lunch, and stops at snorkel sites en route to the Dam islands in Krabi Province. Here, feel the sand beneath your toes on one of the larger islands, Ko Dam Hok and Ko Dam Kwan, and, if tides are low, walk a sand bridge, dubbed “Miracle Beach,” between Ko Dam Kwan and one of the smaller islets.

At uninhabited Ko Hong, visit a pretty cove before

THAILAND

PHO

TOS

BY IN

GIM

AGE

(TO

P LE

FT);

INGI

MAG

E/PA

KHN

YUSH

CHYY

(TO

P RI

GHT)

; IST

OCK

.CO

M/S

HUTT

ERW

ORX

(B

OTT

OM

); KA

RA M

URPH

Y (C

ENTE

R RI

GHT)

TO

URIS

M A

UTHO

RITY

OF

THAI

LAN

D (B

OTT

OM

RIG

HT)

PHO

TOS

BY iS

TOCK

.CO

M/C

HIRA

SAK

TOLE

RTM

ON

GKO

L (T

OP)

; IN

GIM

AGES

(BO

TTO

M);

KARA

MUR

PHY

(TO

P LE

FT);

KJER

STI J

ORG

ENSE

N (B

OTT

OM

LEF

T)

SHOWBOATS INTERNATIONAL 108107 SHOWBOATS INTERNATIONAL

! " " # # $ % $

M A Y 2 0 1 3CONNECT WITH US

&'%&( )*!"#$" #!%&'!(#

PHANG NGABAY

KoPhi Phi Don

KoDam Hok

Ko Yao Yai

Bida Nok

Ko Rok NokKo Rok Nai

Ko Yao

KoPhi Phi Leh

MAYA BAY

Nai Harn

PATONG BAY

Ko Lanta Yai

Ko Lanta Noi

Phuket Town

THAILAND

PHANG NGA

KRABI

ANDAMAN SEA

PHUKET

Koh Panyi

James Bond Island

to life aboard Calisto. The next morning, a1er Captain Cathala and I go for a short run ashore, hauling ourselves up to the second of Phi Phi’s viewpoints and back down again, I realize another enticing aspect of this vessel: the presence of a Thai masseuse among the crew. Chalisa gives Thai massages on the open but semi-private upper deck behind the wheelhouse, where she works wonders on aching muscles earned during the day’s activities.

An hour of jasmine-scented, blissful relaxation later, and we’ve arrived at the doorstep of Nui Bay, which lies on Ko Phi Phi Don’s northwestern section, near the stationary limestone pup and ball I sighted yesterday morning. Following a short snorkel o2 the bay’s invit-ing beach beneath jagged, paralyzed limestone drip-pings, we say goodbye to Ko Phi Phi, continuing on towards the other Andaman treasures that await us.

Calisto’s galley isn’t large or overly fancy, but I’m astounded by the magic that happens there. Chef Sowat Naknonhan prepares French and Thai dishes for just about every meal, although he can cater to any taste. On this cruise, the spicy Thai creations are clearly for me, while the French in4uence is intended to please Captain Cathala. Recognizing my love of heat, he serves up tiny, individual dishes of fresh, chopped chilies in vinegar and 0sh sauce as well as ground chili with each meal, includ-ing breakfast. And he begins challenging my tolerance with at least one dish per sitting; the tofu, coriander and lime juice Thai noodle salad nearly breaks me, but, as serious chili lovers will understand, reaching one’s thresh-old, where you’re swallowing loads of water and sweat-ing profusely, is an immensely fun experience, one that propels your senses into a state of feeling totally alive.

Taste, however, de0nitely isn’t the only sense brought

PHO

TO B

Y IS

TOCK

.CO

M/S

HUTT

ERW

ORX

fact file CLIMATE: Tropical monsoon

CURRENCY: Thai baht

LANGUAGE: Thai, although many Thai people also speak English

TIME ZONE: UTC +7

AIRPORT: Phuket International Airport, Phuket Island

WHEN TO GO: The best time to visit the Phuket area is between December and May, when the wet season is over. The sea state in the Andaman is the most comfortable in April/May.

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS: A passport with at least six months’ validity, visa and proof of onward travel is required for entry.

ARRIVING BY PLANE: If you’re a citizen of one of the approximately 40 nations that qualify for a visa waiver or visa exemption and are staying 30 days or less, you may not require a visa.

ARRIVING BY BOAT: Captains and crew without a pre-arranged visa will be issued a non-extendable, one-month visa

upon arrival. Persons (but not passengers) with this type of visa will need to pay a refundable bond if they need to leave Thailand during this time. Regardless of method of arrival, it’s best to check visa requirements with your nearest consulate or embassy prior to travel.

YACHT ENTRY: Visiting yachts must complete all incoming/outgoing clearance at the Ao Chalong office, located south of both Phuket marinas. Yachts will receive a six-month permit, which may be extended. Longer stays are also possible; inquire with your agent or marina manager.

MARINAS: Yacht Haven Marina (Phuket) can accommodate yachts up to 262 feet in length, with up to an 18-foot draft. Yachts with more than a 14-foot, nine-inch-plus draft should approach at high tide. www.yacht-haven-phuket.com

Ao Po Grand Marina (Phuket) accommodates yachts up to 262 feet in length. www.aopograndmarina.com

CHARTER: To charter Calisto, contact Fraser Yachts, Tel: +377 93 100 480; Email Massima.Piras@fraseryachts.com; www.calisto-cruises.com

SUPERYACHT AGENTS: Asia Pacific Superyachts, gordon@asia-pacific-superyachts.com

SEA Marine Services, rogerg@seamarineservices.com

SUPERYACHT REFIT AND SERVICES: Meteor Yachts, Duncan@eclipsemarine.net

Absolute Yacht Interiors, info@absoluteyachtinteriors.com

TOURISM: www.tourismthailand.org

THAILAND