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14 HOURS AND56 MINUTESThat is how long it took for Amelia Earhart to fl y solo across the Atlantic in 1932.Her fearless spirit proved stronger thanthe icy winds and mechanical failures.The fi rst woman to connect the continents relied on her Longines Chronographas a navigation tool.

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T h ec e l e b r a t i o n

i s s u e

NOVFoodPARTY STARTERSEnsure you’re the host with themost with these flavour-packed party snacks and drinks.

Pork and sugarcaneskewers .................................80

Beef tartare with wontoncrisps......................................80

Prawn toasts..............................81Roast five-spice chicken

baos.........................................81Frozen Thai basil and

makrut lime Mojito..............84Lemongrass and tamarind

iced tea..................................84Crab, coconut and pomelo

betel leaves..........................84Tropical fruit salad with

coconut jelly and gingersyrup.......................................85

Vietnamese coffeeice-creams with saltedcashew crumb .....................85

78 LET’S DRINK TO THATGimlet’s Andrew McConnellnods to the elegance ofa classic cocktail party.

Party Sangria .............................91Peaches and Campari ............91Champagne Gimlet ................91Rock oysters with seaweed

butter on rye ........................92Spring crudités with

house-made curd ...............92Tuna sandwich.........................93Classic seafood salad............95Bambino ....................................95Saltwater duck with pickled

blackberries .........................96Rhubarb and Tonic..................96Whiskey and Dry .....................96White peach, basil and

shiso gelato..........................97

88

TACO TIMEChef and newly publishedauthor Rosa Cienfuegos servescolour and flavour with recipes that are dear to her heart.

Tacos de suadero(Slow-cooked briskettacos)....................................100

Totopos (Tortilla chips) ......... 102Tacos de carnitas

(Slow-cooked porktacos).................................... 102

Tacos de carne asada(Grilled steak tacos) ......... 104

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ON THE COVEROur best party bites (p78)

Photography Alicia Taylor

Styling Olivia Blackmore

SUBSCRIBEmagshop.com.au/GMT

Details p74

Regulars

Travel

13 UPFRONT Editor’s letter, contributors and news.

27 FIVE OF A KIND Champagne.

28 COMMUNITY X KYLIE Jon Owen.

32 HOW I TRAVEL Rose Carlyle.

35 FAST Simple, everyday meals.

45 ANATOMY OF A DISH Prawn cocktail.

46 MASTERCLASS Sausage rolls.

108 THE ART OF TRAVEL Celebration.

118 A CHEF’S GUIDE Lennox Hastie on Sydney.

120 CHECKING IN United Places, South Yarra.

126 HOME Style and design.

128 STYLE Cocktail hour.

129 BEAUTY Party prep.

130 OBJECTS OF DESIRE Tea party.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF COUNTRYGourmet Traveller acknowledges the Gadigal people of theEora Nation as the traditional custodians of the place wenow call Sydney, where this magazine is published. Gourmet Traveller also pays respects to Elders past and present.

This issue of Gourmet Traveller is published by Are Media Pty Ltd (Are Media). Are Media may use and discloseyour information in accordance with our Privacy Policy, including to provide you with your requested products orservices and to keep you informed of other Are publications, products, services and events. Our Privacy Policy islocated at aremedia.com.au/privacy/. It also sets out how you can access or correct your personal information andlodge a complaint. Are Media may disclose your personal information offshore to its owners, joint venture partners,service providers and agents located throughout the world, including in New Zealand, USA, the Philippines and theEuropean Union. In addition, this issue may contain Reader Offers, being offers, competitions or surveys. ReaderOffers may require you to provide personal information to enter or to take part. Personal information collected forReader Offers may be disclosed by us to service providers assisting Are Media in the conduct of the Reader Offerand to other organisations providing special prizes or offers that are part of the Reader Offer. An opt-out choice isprovided with a Reader Offer. Unless you exercise that opt-out choice, personal information collected for ReaderOffers may also be disclosed by us to other organisations for use by them to inform you about other products,services or events or to give to other organisations that may use this information for this purpose. If you requirefurther information, please contact Are’s Privacy Officer either by email at privacyofficer@aremedia.com.au or mail to Privacy Officer, Are Media Pty Ltd, 54 Park St, Sydney, NSW 2000.

HOSPITALITY HONOURSPresenting the Gourmet Traveller Hospitality Honourslist. Showcasing the creativity and community spirit born out of 2020.

50Features

BIG DAY OUTWith international adventures stalled for theforeseeable future, Michael Harry explores luxury travel closer to home.

110

MIND OVER MANNERSGeorgie Meredith sets out the group dining regulations here to keep you safe this silly season.

72

NEW IN TOWNWe raise a glass tothe best restaurantsto open over thepast 12 months fromaround Australia.

63

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F A M O U S A U S T R A L I A N S T Y L E

F A M O U SP O L I S HG L A S S

Featur ing Duet , a co l lec t ion of g las sware pa i r s . Now ava i lab le in lead ing homewares and depar tment s tores .

krosno.com.au

Michael Harden, Michael Harry, Anna Hart,Kylie Kwong, Jessica Rigg Intern Grace MacKenzie

Contributors

Editorial office GPO Box 4088, Sydney, NSW 2001, Australia phone +61 2 9282 8758email askgourmet@aremedia.com.au website gourmettraveller.com.au Instagram @gourmettraveller

Published by Are Media Pty Limited. ABN 18 053 273 546. 54-58 Park St, Sydney, NSW, 2000, (02) 9282 8000. The trade mark Gourmet Traveller is the property of Are MediaPty Limited and is used under licence. ©2020 All rights reserved. Printed by Ovato, 8 Priddle St, Warwick Farm, NSW, 2170. National distribution by Gordon and Gotch Australia Pty Ltd.1300 650 666. Gourmet Traveller cannot accept unsolicited manuscripts or photographs. If such materials are sent to the magazine, they will not be returned. Price in Australia, $9.99;in New Zealand, NZ$10.99; digital edition, $3.99. Subscription rates: 1 year (12 issues) $74.99 via automatic renewal; 1 year (12 issues) $79.99 via credit card or cheque; NZ (airspeed)

1 year, $120; overseas (airspeed) 1 year, $180; digital edition monthly, $2.99; 6 months, $9.99; 1 year, $19.99. Vol 20 No 5 ISSN 1034-9006

SubscriptionsGourmet Traveller, Reply Paid 5252, Sydney, NSW 2001, Australia, phone 136 116, email magshop@magshop.com.au

WordsYvonne C LamJordan KretchmerGeorgie Meredith

Digital EditorWriter

Writer & Editorial Coordinator

Joanna HunkinHannah BlackmoreKarlie Verkerk

EditorCreative Director

Deputy Editor

Anna Mistilis (02) 9282 8111

Rhyl Heavener (02) 8114 9420

Kate Orsborn (02) 9282 8364

Mikayla Skarzynski (02) 9282 8142

Cate Gazal (02) 8116 9342

Karen Holmes (02) 9282 8733

Jaclyn Clements (03) 9823 6341

Will Jamison (03) 9823 6301

Judy Taylor (07) 3101 6636

Clare Catt (02) 8116 9341

Sally Jefferys (02) 9282 8321

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AdvertisingHead of Brands

Group Commercial Brand ManagerAdvertising Production Manager

Brand ExecutiveSenior Events ManagerDirector of Sales (NSW)

Director of Sales (Vic, SA, WA)Victoria Head of Direct Sales

Queensland Head of SalesCreative Director

Production ControllerAdvertising Production Coordinator

Louise CankettJillian HoganSarah WebsterDariya KaingMaddie BowkerSean McLintockEllie XuerebJesvin VincentTanuja Singhsyndication@aremedia.com.au

Marketing, Research & CirculationMarketing Director

Senior Marketing ManagerBrand Manager

Circulation ManagerSenior Research Analyst

General Manager Subscriptions & E-CommerceSenior Subscriptions Campaign Manager

Subscriptions Campaign ManagerSyndication Content Sales Manager

Syndication inquiries

Bauer MediaBrendon HillSally EagleAndrew CookJane WaterhouseGeorgina Bromfield

Chief Executive OfficerGeneral Manager Publishing

Director of SalesGeneral Manager Media Solutions

Business Manager

FoodSophia YoungCynthia Adey

Group Food DirectorGroup Food Editor

ArtLaura JacobsJeannel Cunanan & Kelsie Walker

Art DirectorGroup Designers

THE NEW E-CLASS COUPÉ.Made to win the day.

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Best newopenings

p63

These are the stories captured inour Hospitality Honours list, whichexemplifies how adversity can beturned into opportunity.

You will also find a round upof the best new restaurant openingsfrom the past 12 months.

Again, to open a new restaurantis always a challenge. To do so in2020 and survive as a new business,is something else entirely.

It’s not over yet, we know that.But we’ve come a long way – andthat, surely, deserves a toast. Cheers!

EMAIL ASKGOURMET@AREMEDIA.COM.AU // FOLLOW @GOURMETTRAVELLER // ONLINE GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU

C ongratulations reader, youmade it! November is hereand you are still standing.Well done you. Well done

us. Let’s toast to that!Christmas is still to come but

this issue is a cracker. A CelebrationSpecial dedicated to sharing thesuccess stories of 2020; victoriesboth big and small. They have beenhard fought and each and everyone deserves to be celebrated.

This year has challenged us all;forcing individuals and businessesto rethink, recalibrate and reposition.The hospitality industry, in particular, has undergone seismic change,driving new levels of creativity,resilience and social enterprise.

We wanted to celebrate theindustry as a whole and toast eachand every business that has fought tosurvive this year. To every restaurant,bar, pub or cafe that has reopened its doors – we salute you.

Then there are those whomanaged not simply to survive thisyear, but found new ways to thrive.

What we’re eating

Gnocchetti Sardi alla campidanese,Acqua e Sale

Handmade by chef Fabio Concas, thisSardinian classic is reason enough to

flock to Perth’s best new Italian osteria.391 Fitzgerald St, North Perth, WA.

Max Veenhuyzen, WA state editor

Scallops with Aleppo pepper,Rockpool Bar and Grill

Fresh from Western Australia, these sweetand plump Abrolhos scallops are paired

with a delicate spiced seasoning andorange oil. 66 Hunter St, Sydney, NSW.

Jordan Kretchmer, writer

SUBSCRIBE NOWmagshop.com.au/gmt

Details p74

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ANDREW McCONNELLchef and restaurateurLet’s drink to that, p88In the spirit of celebration,Andrew McConnell hascreated a menu of elegantshare plates with cocktailsto match, all inspired by hisglamorous new Melbournevenue, Gimlet at CavendishHouse. “The sweet spot formatching food with cocktailsis restraint,” says McConnell.“I like flavours that make youstop and think; that get yourattention without screaming‘look at me!’.” It’s a delicious and sophisticated affair.

ROSA CIENFUEGOS chef and authorTaco time, p98Sydney’s resident “tamalequeen” Rosa Cienfuegos hasbeen dishing up authenticMexican street food since2018. Finding inspiration inthe Mexican laneways of herchildhood, the flavours areas vibrant as the colours. Inthis issue, we share recipesfrom her new cookbookComida Mexicana. “Food isvery important to Mexicans.It reconnects us to our past,our families and our feelings,” explains Cienfuegos.

ALICIA TAYLORphotographerParty starters, p78Alicia Taylor was hookedon photography from themoment she was givena Pentax K1000 cameraas a child, and has sincesnapped everything frompeople and food, to designand architecture. For ourcelebration issue, Taylorcaptured a bold and playfulvibe for our cover shoot,which features fun, flavour-packed bites. “I adoreanything wrapped in betelleaves or baos,” she says.

SOPHIA YOUNGgroup food directorParty starters, p78New York-trained chef SophiaYoung has contributed tosome of Australia’s best foodmagazines and cookbooks,both as a food editor andstylist. For this month’s covershoot, Young took inspirationfrom the punchy street-foodflavours of Southeast Asia.“This cheerful menu, completewith drinks and cooling sweettreats that can be preparedwell in advance, is perfect fora cocktail party on a balmy evening,” says Young.

p78

Party starters

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N O V E M B E R

NEWS

Chefs on the move for pop-ups, celebration essentials,the picnic renaissance and David Chang’s new memoir.

PA R T Y P O P P E R

Naga opensin Brisbane

p18

Edited by JORDAN KRETCHMER

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MELBOURNEAs Victoria slowly reopens, with it comes

some new offerings from bold and brave

hospitality folk. Tiny pop-up pasticceria

Monforte Viennoiserie has cropped up

in Carlton North. You’ll find a changing

rotation of short-run pastries: one week

you may get a leatherwood honey and

sea salt croissant, the next, one topped

with asparagus, goat’s curd and hazelnut.

Owner Giorgia McAllister Forte spent

the past four years learning tricks of

the trade from Boris Portnoy at All

Are Welcome.

As Marion reverts back to its original

wine bar format, just a few doors down

you’ll be able to enjoy the community

grocery vibes of this pivot permanently.

Morning Market will take cues from

the Marion Grocer, offering sandwiches,

salads and coffee, alongside fresh fruit,

vegetables and flowers, and bread by

Baker Bleu.

SYDNEYAfter the upheaval of this year, chefs are

now on the move to bring new life to

Sydney mainstays. Nik Hill has taken to La

Rosa at The Strand for a pop-up dubbed

The Milan Cricket Club. It’s pitched as

a British-Italian steakhouse, but there’s

not a squiggle of pasta in sight. “The food

is far more British than Italian,” says Hill.

Similarly, Nigel Ward (formerly of Sagra)

will breathe new life into the Ivy’s Uccello.

He’ll make the most of the existing

wood-fired oven, serving up Ulladulla

ruby snapper with salsa verde and

Melanda Park suckling pig. Mitch Orr is

also on the move, heading up the kitchen

at Freshwater’s Pilu Baretto Nights.

BRISBANEEagle Street Pier has welcomed Naga.

Bangkok-born head chef Suwisa

Phoonsang is returning to her roots,

steaming chor muang (flower-shaped

dumplings), stir-frying pad kra pao gai

(Phoonsang’s lunch of choice) and

slow-cooking khao soi, Chiang Mai’s

curry-noodle-soup. The 150-seat venue

is pinned as a “long-term pop-up”, driven

by Andrew and Jaimee Baturo of

French-Vietnamese restaurant Libertine.

R E S TAU R A N T N E W ST H E L A T E S T F R O M C H E F S A N D R E S T A U R A N T S A R O U N D A U S T R A L I A

Pad Thai with Moreton Bay

bugs at Naga. Clockwise from

top right: leatherwood honey and

sea salt croissant at Monforte

Viennoiserie; Nigel Ward joins

Uccello as head chef.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R18

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PARLOUR GAMESNorth Bondi’s Porch & Parlour hasreopened with a fresh refurb forsummer and a new side hustle,launching Porch Ceramics. Co-owner Sammy Smith has collaboratedwith ceramicist Ryan Der to crafta beautiful range of neutral-tonedcrockery. Handmade in a garage-studio in Tamarama, Porch Ceramicsare now the base for serving mealsand coffees in-house. Each piece isavailable for purchase, from piccolo cups to plates in the café, andthrough the soon-to-be-launchedonline store. porchceramics.com

Keep an eye out for akoya. The pearl oyster is native to WesternAustralia, and while originally known for producing salt water pearls,the bivalve flesh is also an edible delicacy in its own right. WesternAustralia is now home to the first farm producing food-scaled pearl meat, which can be served raw, cured, poached or fried. harvestroad.com

The Museum of UnderwaterArt (MOUA) has opened justoff the coast of Townsville

in North Queensland.The series of subterranean

sculptures by Jason deCairesTaylor draws attention to theconservation and restoration

of the Great Barrier Reef,merging art, science and thejoy of diving. moua.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 19

N e w s

PEACHY KEENCelebrated American chef, restaurateur,and television and podcast host DavidChang has added yet another book to hisburgeoning list of achievements, with therelease of his debut memoir Eat a Peach.Eight years in the making, the book isa culinary coming-of-age which unpacksChang’s struggles and triumphs in bothhis personal and professional life. “Thebook touches on my Asian identity andmental health, plus the crazy ride that hasbeen the culinary world for the past 15 orso years,” says Chang. From stories ofgrowing up as an “outsider” in Arlington,Virginia, to working as a line cook, dealingwith negative criticism and managing bipolardisorder, the book reveals an intimate andhonest account of Chang’s experiences. “The hardest part was shaping it intosomething that makes sense for someoneelse to read, rather than it just being a streamof consciousness,” adds Chang. “The firsthalf is more linear than the second, as I’mstill working through the past 10 years; I’mstill trying to make sense of it all. It has beena long process.” And as for his success? “Somuch of the world today is preparing you tobecome successful. No one tells you whathappens after success – that’s the hard part.”Eat a Peach: A Memoir by David Chang (Square Peg, $42.99) is out now.

Festivals are back onthe cards, and MonaFoma is one of thefirst to announcedates. Mona’s Festivalof Music and Art willdouble down onlocations next year,hitting Launceston(January 15-17) andHobart (January22-24). With twolocations morepeople can attendthe left-of-centreimmersive festival.monafoma.net.au

F l y i n g h i g hPhotographer Peter Hendrie has been taking photos from aircraft sincethe early ’80s. His new book The Window Seat documents these loftyvignettes. The planes he shot from range from 10-seat propeller-poweredaircrafts to large passenger jets, with photographs capturing alien-liketerrains of deserts, endless cityscapes, patchworks of olive and citrus groves and mosaics of crop patterns. $29.95, peterhendrie.com

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1Alex and Trahanas ceramic Apulian large oval serving platter

Didn’t know your life was missing a large lobster platter? Now you

do. This Italian-made, handpainted centrepiece is the ideal summer

server, whether it’s topped with a pile of lobster tagliolini, fried calamari

or rows of freshly shucked oysters. $280, alexandtrahanas.com

2Hermès Bleus d’Ailleurs round platter

This regal white and blue porcelain platter is the ultimate party

piece. Measuring 44 centimetres wide, the large round plate can

be used as both a centrepiece and a practical serving platter, for hors

d’oeuvres or whole meals. $2545, hermes.com/au

3Mud Australia Paris platter

Mud’s handmade ceramics are as practical as they are beautiful, and

this broad platter exemplifies this. It comes in 19 different colours,

meaning there's a shade to match any party mood. Plus its high-edged

sides make it ideal for serving and presenting anything from individual

snacks to a sweet celebration cake. $294, mudaustralia.com

The art of sabrage (where

Champagne is opened

using a sabre) is usually

reserved for big-ticket

events, but Cygnet Sabres

offer three different sabres,

so you can crack open a

bottle in style, whenever

the mood strikes.

cygnetsabres.com.au

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Poolside FM is a new, easy-to-use music app that serves as the ultimate

summer jukebox. With channels curated for different moods (including

the original Poolside FM, Indie Summer, Hangover Club and Tokyo Disco),

it’s a crowd-pleasing way to soundtrack a party. poolside.fm

Connoisseur’s new plant-based range has just

been released, with celebratory, summer-ready

flavours in both tubs and chocolate-coated

individual serves. Scoop up mango and

passionfruit ice-cream or bite into chocolate-

covered coconut cream with acai and berries.

connoisseuricecream.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 21

N e w s

Picnics aren’t a new summertime thing, but with the emergenceof Covid-19 and preference (and at times necessity) for outdoordining, chefs, restaurants and start-ups are celebrating themoveable feast now more than ever. Chez Micky is a Sydney-based picnic purveyor, focused on delivering packs ofhandmade preserves, pickles, cheese and condiments. OwnerMichaela Morgan uses vegetables and herbs from her plot atCamdenville Paddock Community in Newtown and seasonal

L I F E ’ S A P I C N I C

market hauls, to create her own pesto, harissa and labne(which you can order as a three pack); alongside a limemayonnaise and pink mignonette (ready to slather on prawnrolls and spoon on oysters respectively, as pictured above).For now, she’s servicing the greater Sydney region, enlistingfriends and family to help deliver the goods, with hopes to expand across NSW and Australia.

Stalwart chefs are also turning to portable al fresco affairs:in LA, Australian chef Curtis Stone has opened Picnic Societyby Gwen at The Grove, while closer to home his events offshootin Melbourne is doing large-scale catering packs designed forpicnics and outdoor celebrations. Melbourne’s Meatsmith is alsojoining the park party, hampering small goods (including wagyupastrami, duck terrine and chicken liver pâté), artisan cheese,bread and skin-contact wine, all in a neat Meatsmith cooler bag.Meanwhile, catering business Cookes Food has expanded its offerings to send out European-inspired grazing packs.

RAISING THE BARSydney cocktail bar Maybe Sammy has scooped the Michter’sArt of Hospitality Award as part of The World’s 50 Best Bars 2020.The gong is given to one bar that the academy – a 540-memberpanel of industry experts – voted as their single best hospitalityexperience from January 2019 to March 2020. Located at TheRocks, Maybe Sammy takes inspiration from Hollywood’s goldenage of the 1950s; bar staff are decked out in matching double-breasted pale pink jackets, guests are sprayed with bubbleson arrival, and cocktails are delivered with smooth service andtheatrical flair. You’ll also find a mini Martini happy hour, whichsees seven different half-serve Martinis served up for just $5.50, from 4.30-5.30pm, daily. maybesammy.com

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O N T H E PA S S w i t h J I N C H O I , H A R D Y ’ S V E R A N D A H

Your mum is a chef as well – what are some things you learned

from her? Definitely having respect for each ingredient. I used to

go to the markets with my mum all the time. I remember clearly

that she would utilise each and every part of an ingredient, and

she taught me how to take advantage of this. And this why

I have a “no waste” mentality in my kitchen.

What’s your favourite dish on the menu right now? Our Mayura

wagyu brisket with pearl onion and nashi pear. I was inspired by

galbi, a classic Korean dish normally served during celebrations.

Most of our diners are usually celebrating a special occasion so

I like to share a bit of my background with them.

When you’re hosting a dinner party at home, what do you

usually like to cook? Korean barbecue. It’s a great opportunity

to chat with my guests outside of the kitchen.

What do you love about living in Adelaide? I’ve lived in Adelaide

for more than 10 years, and it’s a very calm and serene city. I feel

a lot more relaxed when I’m here. I also have three girls and a

loving wife. I couldn’t think of any better place to raise my family.

Now that Adelaide is reopening to Australian tourists, what do

you recommend they do while they are there? At Mount Lofty

House we’re surrounded by a lot of great wineries and beautiful

scenery. I would recommend going for wine tours around the

Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and the Adelaide Hills.

Hardy’s Verandah, 1 Mawson Dr, Crafers, SA.

e Everleigh Bottling Co. has released two new carbonated bottled cocktails.

e effervescent numbers include an old-world Americano and an elegant

ench 75. $48 for four, everleighbottling.com

The

The

Fre

C a f f e i n e h i tQuality comes at a price, which explains why Single O’s latest offering will see

you pay $20 for a single cup of coffee. Sourced from Ethiopia, the Rumudamo

beans claimed second place at the prestigious Cup of Excellence coffee

awards, which saw nearly 1500 entries blind-tasted for quality and flavour.

When you sample it in-house at Single O, you’ll get a full barista-guided

experience, to explain flavour notes, the context of the competition and the

brewing process. There’s also a limited number of whole-bean bags available,

online and in-store. singleo.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 23

N e w s

NEW SOUTH WALESIn a bold move all Ovolo Hotels

across Australia have announced their

restaurants will be wholly vegetarian

for the next year. Woolloomooloo’s Alibi

set the tone (it’s been vegan since it

first opened), while other restaurants

will welcome new chefs to spearhead

the vegetarian shift, including Canberra’s

Monster Kitchen & Bar (Paul Wilson) and

Brisbane’s Za Za Ta (Roy Ner, previously

from Nour and Lilah).

Glamping accommodation Sierra Escape

is bringing some extra off-grid luxury to its

Mudgee site. The eco-focused stay has

been given a refresh and now has a pool

(crafted from a shipping container) and

deck to relax on.

MELBOURNEWhile the opening of W Melbourne has

been pushed back to February 2021, the

hotel has announced chef Adam D’Sylva

(co-owner and chef of Tonka and Coda)

will head up the creative culinary direction

for Lollo, which is set to be one of the

hotel’s signature restaurants.

QUEENSLANDFollowing Covid-related delays, Crystalbrook

Flynn is set to open in sunny Cairns on

November 10. The Sea King and Sea Suite

rooms enjoy views of the pristine Coral Sea.

Just north, Accor will open the first

Fairmont-branded hotel in Australia, with

the opening of the Fairmont Port Douglas

in Queensland in 2023.

H O T E L N E W ST H E L A T E S T B O U T I Q U E A N D L U X U R Y H O T E L S A R O U N D A U S T R A L I A

Clockwise from top left: Sierra

Escape in Mudgee; one of the

new suites at Crystalbrook

Flynn; the dining room at

Ovolo’s Za Za Ta in Brisbane.

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Discover plantbased indulgence.

A G o u r m e t Tr a v e l l e r p r o m o t i o n

Astand-out dish begins with quality produce,and nowhere demonstrates this sentimentbetter than Nobu Perth. The fine-diningrestaurant fuses Japanese flavours and

innovative techniques with the best produce to createan exclusive eating experience. And this experiencehas been elevated even higher with the introductionof two Western Australian brands, both of whichshare a passion for sustainable and ethical produce:Leeuwin Coast’s akoya and Rose Mallee beef. “Wehave created three unique dishes in our exclusiveNobu style, utilising quality Western Australianproduce,” says Crown Perth Executive Sous ChefChristopher Hori. “The team thrives on exploringnew and exciting ways to expand the Nobu Perthmenu. We are always expanding our palette withnew ingredients as we learn about the produce andwhere it comes from.”

A H I D D E N S E A F O O D G E MAs pristine as the waters in which it is grown, Leeuwin Coast’s akoya is a unique delicacy. This seafood treasure, nestled inside a striking pearlescent shell, grows native to Western Australia, but is cultivated and harvested through innovative aquaculture techniques from Mistaken Island in Albany. Akoya taste like a refreshing dip in the Southern Ocean and can be enjoyed cooked, cured or simply raw. “The akoya is new to Western Australia,” says Hori. “At Nobu Perth, it’s shucked like a scallop and mixed with di�erent sauces.”

F R O M T H E L A N D Western Australia boasts a wonderfully pristine landscape, which makes it ideal for producing the finest quality beef. At Nobu Perth, Rose Mallee Wagyu short rib is coated in a rich Japanese barbecue sauce, cooked until meltingly tender and served with sautéed onion and sweet corn, before being topped with shaved Australian white spring tru�e and pickled fennel with wasabi sesame seeds. The result is a seamless fusion of passion and provenance.

Experience Western Australia’s finest produceon the menu at Nobu, with local Leeuwin

Coast akoya and Rose Mallee beef.

O N T H E M E N UAt Nobu Perth, you’ll find akoya served with ceviche dressing and topped with a fresh fennel, cucumber and jalapeño salsa, or seared with hot olive and sesame oil and finished with a spicy coriander-lemon soy sauce.

F I N I S H I N G T O U C HDelicate shavings of Australian white spring tru�e perfectly complement Nobu Perth’s rich Rose Mallee Wagyu short ribs.

F R E S H W E S T E R N

F L A V O U R S

BRUNO PAILLARDPremière Cuvée

A blend of more than30 crus, this smooth,

citrus-forward drop hasless sugar than most,resulting in a rounded

flavour with a crisp, cleanfinish. Citrus notes are

underpinned by hints ofberry from the pinot noir.The perfect pairing with

summer shellfish.750ml for $110,

dynamicwines.com.au

FLEURYBlanc de Noirs

The Fleury vineyardswere the first in theChampagne regionto gain biodynamic

certification, officiallygranted in 1992. Madefrom nothing but pinot

noir, this full-bodied bottlebrings a fruit-driven

flavour that’s pleasantlycrisp and refreshing.

750ml for $75, differentdrop.com

BOLLINGERLa Grande Année

2012 was a very goodyear for the Champagne

region, resulting inthis special drop from

Bollinger that will only getbetter with age. A classicblend of pinot noir andchardonnay, it brings

a soft creaminess to thepalate, followed by notes

of honey and apricot.750ml for $260,

danmurphys.com.au

PERRIER-JOUËTBelle Epoque

You should never judgea wine by its label –

except in this instance.Perrier-Jouët’s Belle

Epoque is every bit asdelightful to drink as its

famed Art Nouveau bottleis to look at. This elegant,

floral champagne isanother sterling resultfrom the 2012 season.

750ml for $260,bws.com.au

PALMER & COBrut Réserve

Established in 1947 bya co-operative of growers,Palmer & Co has earneda global reputation for its

commitment to quality.Its brut réserve is aged onlees for four years – fourtimes longer than legally

required. The resultis a soft, buttery wine

with an intense aroma.750ml for $75,

wineexperience.com.au

Elegant and refined, Champagne has long been the life of theparty. Here, we showcase five of the most memorable drops.

Champagne

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F i v e o f a k i n d

Jon OwenKylie Kwong celebrates the individuals helping to grow a stronger community.

This month, we meet Wayside Chapel’s chief executive and pastor Jon Owen.

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I first met Jon Owen at a WaysideChapel fundraising event held atBilly Kwong in 2018. I felt an instantconnection; Jon exudes a naturalwarmth and openness that instantlymakes those around him feel reallycomfortable. For me, he is like oneof my brothers, and with our sharedAsian backgrounds the conversationalways turns to food and family. I’d

like to celebrate and thank Jon for his continuous careof those who are the most vulnerable in our community.

W ith every challenge, comes anopportunity. Which means 2020has not been without its positives,says Jon Owen, chief executive and

pastor of Sydney’s Wayside Chapel.“We’ve been getting people off the street and

into hotel rooms, the Government has been payingfor that. It’s been quite an amazing moment to beworking in this space. There’s been lots of pleasantsurprises through it all,” he says, radiatinga charisma so strong, you can feel it even througha glitchy Zoom call.

Wayside Chapel has been a fixture of Sydney’sKings Cross since 1964, when it first opened itsdoors to offer a place of sanctuary and supportfor those who had fallen by the wayside.

“Wayside is this beautiful placewhere we are the family of humanity.From the person walking out of theirapartment in Potts Point to theperson waking up in the gutter, youcan come to this place where you willbe treated as equals.”

Wayside has long held a special place in thegreater Sydney community – and it takes a specialperson to lead the organisation. For years, thatwas Rev. Graham Long, who retired in 2018,choosing Owen as his successor.

Born in Malaysia, Owen came to Australiaas an infant as his parents sought a better life fortheir young family. From an early age, his life wasclearly mapped out.

“I’m the only boy out of four kids in an Asianimmigrant family so there was a lot of pressure and

value on providing for the family. To the pointwhere my mother chose my university coursefor me,” he laughs fondly.

Owen was a year away from completinga double degree in computer science andengineering when he took an elective paperon social justice – and derailed his mother’splans forever.

“It captivated me and captured my heart.I found my fit in the universe, really. I thoughtthere’s no cost too high to pay, I need to investin this lifestyle.”

Owen took a gap year from his studies. Butinstead of travelling the world and “findingmyself in saffron robes”, he stayed in Melbourne,volunteering in one of the city’s poorestneighbourhoods to work with the vulnerableand disadvantaged: asylum seekers, refugeesand those recently released from prison.

“All of a sudden, this feeling of growing upas an outsider and being excluded made sense.I had this great empathy and compassion andI could connect with people in that space. Thatwas what sparked the passion and the journey.”

After more than 20 years, that journey ledOwen to Wayside – via a decade in Mt Druitt,where he and his wife Lisa opened their hometo those in need, at times sharing their four-bedroom home with up to 13 people, alongsidetheir two young daughters.

His mission has always been to spread love andcompassion, which he achieves through creatingcommunity and connection. And often the firststep in that process, he says, is through food.

“An Aboriginal lady once said to me... youare who you eat with. Food is the catalyst forconnection and community. The shortestdistance between two people is a shared meal.

“At Wayside, when we hand out a meal, welook people in the eye and call them by theirname and say you’re not forgotten.”

As we approach Christmas, Owen says thatphilosophy is more important than ever.

“Christmas is always hard for our guys. It’soften a reminder of what they’ve lost, not whatthey have. This Christmas, we’re really facing thereality that every family is going to have to choosethe 20 people that they want at their house. Weknow our guys are not going to make the cut.

“What the world puts last, we’re going to putfirst. And food is the way we get them in. Comeand eat prawns and ham, cherries and meringues. But what we’re really saying is ‘I love you’.” ●

“The shortestdistance between

two people isa shared meal.”

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 29

The adventurer,lawyer and author

on sailing acrossthe Indian Ocean,

swimming withsharks, and lessons

learnt along the way.

RoseCarlyle

TRAVELLING WITH

Next up... I’m heading onmy book tour, and the last stop will be Tauranga.

Just back from... WaihekeIsland in New Zealand, for a mini getaway.

I hadn’t done that much travelling before I hadchildren. I didn’t leave New Zealand until I was15. I started practising law at 21 and had my firstchild at 26. When I had my third child, she wasquite unwell and I stayed at home for a while,and then we started going on these sailing trips.We realised it was such a great way to give bothourselves and our children a way to see the world.

I did a year-long sailing trip across the Indian Oceanwith my family in 2014. My three children, myhusband at the time and I set off from Thailand and ended up in South Africa.There are so many differentcultures and landscapes along theway. We went to the Maldives anddestinations I’ve written aboutin my book, including Thailand and the Seychelles.

One of our favourite places wasthe Salomon Atoll of the ChagosArchipelago. It’s an uninhabitedatoll that can only be visited byyacht. You can only stay there for a month, andyou just live this Robinson Crusoe life. The watersare absolutely teeming with life. Sharks circled ourboat but we’d still go swimming, even though theywere bigger than our daughter. It seems crazy now, but that’s what we did.

At sea, you begin to see your children as capablein their own right. You have no choice but to trustthem. They learn there’s no one else to help them,perhaps other than the boat next door. It’s sointeresting to see them learn. It’s also amazinghow busy you can be when you’re just anchoredin paradise. We’d get on with home schoolingand cook every meal by hand. We’d snorkel a lot and we’d go to the beach and exercise.

You’d think we’d live off noodles and tinned food,but travelling on a yacht is so much about mealtimes and cooking, even if you’re in the middleof nowhere. There’s something about the seaair that makes you hungry. We’d catch fish andmake Thai fish curries. We’d also bake coconutchocolate brownies, using coconut flesh we’d just scraped out.

We also circumnavigated New Zealand in over sixweeks. It’s quite challenging but it’s so beautiful,pristine and unpopulated. You see so many whales and seals, it’s an incredible part of the world.

I think one of the big things I’ve learned from sailingis that when you put yourself in extreme situationsyou gain so much. You sail out of port and you losecell phone connection… You fret for a second, andthen you embrace it and end up feeling so muchmore connected and alive, despite the fact thatyou’re disconnected from much of the world.

There’s also something abouttravelling as a family – eventhough you can get literal cabinfever, you get through that.Also there’s nothing as good as landfall breakfast!

I also love travelling on sleepertrains. I’ve done the Trans-Siberianand trains through Zimbabwe, SriLanka and Iran. When you catcha train you can often meet the

locals that are just using the train as a way to travelwithin their own country. There’s this magic ofa bygone age – there’s space and privacy, comparedto a plane. It’s also a form of travel where you cantake a good book and really settle in. I love the slowerpace of travel, and I hope they have a resurgence.

When I wrote my first novel, I was newly divorcedand raising three teenagers. It was pre-Covid, butI was already in a position of not being able totravel, so I really used fiction as a substitute fortravel. It allowed me to return to these places reallyvividly in my imagination, to places I had been.There’s nothing like fiction to put you withina scene, whether you’re a writer or a reader, oftenmore so than a movie, and that’s where I’ll be escaping to until we can travel again. ●

Rose Carlyle’s debut novel, The Girl in the Mirror

(Allen & Unwin, $29.99), is out now.

One of the bigthings I’ve learnedfrom sailing is thatwhen put yourself

in extremesituations yougain so much.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 33

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N O V E M B E R

FASTCreate simple, flavourful

meals in less than 30 minuteswith these everyday recipes.

GLUTEN FREEVEGETARIANPhotography BEN DEARNLEY Food preparation NADIA FONOFF

Styling STEPHANIE STAMATIS, VIVIEN WALSH & SOPHIA YOUNG

Blue cheese and mushroom soufflé omelettes SERVES 4

COOKING TIPIf the handle of your frying pan is notheatproof, wrap it in two layers of foilto protect it from the heat of the grill.

500 gm mixed mushrooms, suchas king brown, Swiss brown, oyster and enoki

100 gm butter2 tsp thyme leaves2 garlic cloves, crushed

150 gm baby spinach leaves8 eggs, separated

200 gm mild blue cheese, crumbled

1 Thickly slice large mushrooms (kingbrowns and Swiss browns), tear oystermushrooms in half and enoki mushrooms into smaller clusters.2 Melt 60gm butter in a large frying panover high heat. Cook mushrooms andthyme, without stirring, until colouredunderneath (2 minutes). Turn mushroomsover, cook until browned and softened(2 minutes). Add garlic and spinach,and cook, stirring, until spinach is just wilted (30 seconds).3 Place eggwhites in a large bowl of anelectric mixer and yolks into a secondlarge bowl. Beat eggwhites with anelectric mixer until stiff peaks form. Usinga hand-held whisk, whisk egg yolks tobreak them up. Using a large metalspoon, gently fold eggwhites into yolks, in two batches, until just combined.4 Preheat grill to high. Heat 10gm butter in a small non-stick frying pan overmedium-high heat. Spoon a quarter ofthe egg mixture into the pan, spreading mixture to the edge, and cook untilstarting to set and come away from edge of pan (1 minute). Top omelette witha quarter of the mushroom mixture anda quarter of the cheese. Place pan underthe grill until omelette is set (1 minute).Using a spatula, fold omelette over and slide onto a plate. Season to taste.Repeat with remaining butter, eggmixture, mushroom mixture and cheeseto make four omelettes in total. (You willneed to lightly whisk the egg mixture after making each omelette.)

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R36

1 Preheat oven to 200°C and linea large oven tray with baking paper.Line another tray with a clean tea toweland spread chickpeas on tray to absorb excess moisture.2 Cut chillies in half lengthways, keepingthe stalk attached, remove and discardseeds. Combine mustard and cuminseeds, chilli flakes, turmeric, oil andcurry leaves in a large bowl. Add chillies,chickpeas and tomatoes, season to taste and toss to combine.3 Spread mixture out over tray and topwith extra curry leaf sprigs. Bake, turningoccasionally, until tomatoes collapse andchillies are tender (15 minutes). Serve with yoghurt. ➤

Spice-roasted chilli,tomato and chickpeas SERVES 4 (OR 6 AS A SIDE)

400 gm canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed

6 long red chillies1½ tsp brown mustard seeds

2 tsp cumin seeds½ tsp dried chilli flakes2 tsp ground turmeric

80 ml (1/3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil¼ cup curry leaves, plus 3 extra sprigs

500 gm cherry truss tomatoes,cut into small clusters

Greek yoghurt, to serve

SERVING SUGGESTIONTry this with our super-speedy

spiced prawns on p42.

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MIX IT UPTry this recipe withother curry pastes,such as korma for

a gentle, nuttyflavour, or vindaloo

for a fiery kick.

1 Preheat oven to 200°C. Line an oventray with baking paper. Score cut sidesof eggplant diagonally with a sharp knifeand place cut-side up on tray. Combine paste and oil, season to taste andspread over cut side of eggplant.2 Roast eggplant, cut-side up, untilbrowned (10-15 minutes), turn and cook until tender (10 minutes).3 Meanwhile, combine yoghurt,cucumber and garlic in a bowl and season to taste.4 Combine lentils, sprouts and juicein a bowl and season to taste. Placeeggplant on a platter and spoon over dhal salad and yoghurt. Top with cashews to serve.Note If you cannot find finger eggplants, cut a large eggplant into thick slices.

6 finger eggplants (720gm), halvedlengthways (see note)

2 tbsp tandoori paste2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

180 ml (3/4 cup) Greek yoghurt½ Lebanese cucumber, coarsely grated1 garlic clove, crushed

400 gm canned lentils, drained and rinsed80 gm (2 cups) snow pea sprouts

2 tbsp lemon juice50 gm (1/3 cup) roasted cashews,

coarsely chopped

Tandoori eggplant with dhal salad SERVES 4

Lamb kofta withbeetroot salad SERVES 4

35 gm (1/2 cup) fresh breadcrumbs2 tbsp milk

600 gm minced lamb1 tsp ground allspice

1/3 cup fresh oregano leaves, coarsely chopped

100 gm feta, crumbled1½ tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

350 gm (11/4 cups) Greek yoghurt1 lemon

200 gm beetroot, coarsely grated2 tbsp chopped fresh mint1 garlic clove, crushed1 baby cos lettuce, trimmed,

leaves separated

1 Place breadcrumbs and milk in amedium bowl and stand until milk isabsorbed (3 minutes). Add lamb, allspiceand oregano and season to taste. Using your hands, work mixture until wellcombined, then add feta and mix untilcombined. Roll heaped tablespoonfulsof lamb mixture into kofta shapes andthread onto metal or wooden skewers.2 Heat oil in a large non-stick fryingpan over medium-high heat and cook

kofta, turning occasionally, until browned and cooked through (10 minutes).3 Meanwhile, finely grate the rind fromthe lemon and juice the lemon. Combine 70gm (1/4 cup) of the yoghurt and thejuice in a small bowl and season to taste.4 For beetroot salad, combine lemonrind, beetroot, remaining yoghurt, mintand garlic in a bowl and season to taste.Serve kofta with lettuce and beetroot, drizzled with lemon yoghurt. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 39

PRODUCE TIPLook for firm, bright,smooth asparagusspears with closed,

compact tips.

Seaweed-wrappedasparagus salad SERVES 4

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3 nori sheets500 gm asparagus, trimmed

60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil55 gm (1/4 cup) natural almonds,

coarsely chopped50 gm (¼ cup) pepitas

1 tsp coriander seeds, crushed1 tsp black sesame seeds2 tsp sesame oil2 tbsp cider vinegar1 tbsp maple syrup1 tsp finely grated fresh ginger2 avocados, sliced2 Lebanese cucumbers,

cut into long wedges

1 Preheat a barbecue or char-grill panover high heat. Cut nori into 3cm-widestrips with scissors then pat with a damppiece of paper towel to soften slightly.Wrap a nori strip around each asparagusspear, starting 2cm from the end and drizzle with 2 tbsp olive oil. Grillasparagus until tender (4 minutes).2 Meanwhile, heat remaining olive oil ina small non-stick frying pan over mediumheat, add almonds and pepitas and cook,stirring until pale golden (1 minute). Addcoriander and sesame seeds and cook until toasted (2 minutes). Cool.3 Combine sesame oil, vinegar, syrupand ginger in a small bowl and seasonto taste. Place avocado, cucumber and asparagus on a platter, drizzle withdressing and sprinkle with seed mix.

Rainbow troutwith lemon andthyme butter SERVES 4

4 rainbow trout (450gm each), cleaned640 gm baby leeks, trimmed

2 tbsp olive oil2 lemons, halved

12 thyme sprigsGrilled flatbread and aïoli, to serveLEMON AND THYME BUTTER

175 gm butter, softened2 garlic cloves, crushed2 tbsp finely chopped thyme leaves1 tbsp lemon juice

1 Preheat oven to 200°C. To make lemonand thyme butter, combine ingredients in a bowl and season to taste.2 Pat fish dry with paper towel and season both sides well.3 Wash leeks to remove grit, then cookin a saucepan of boiling salted wateruntil just tender (2 minutes); drain.

4 Heat half the oil in a large frying panover high heat, add one-third of thelemon and thyme butter and swirl panto coat base with butter. Once butterstarts to foam, add 2 trout, 2 lemonhalves, cut-side down, and 6 sprigsthyme. Cook, turning half way, until fishis browned and almost cooked through(6 minutes) and transfer to an oven tray. Repeat with remaining oil, one-thirdbutter, trout, lemon halves and thymesprigs. Transfer tray to oven and roasttrout until cooked through (10 minutes).5 Heat remaining butter in same panand cook leeks until golden (2 minutes).Divide ingredients among plates andspoon over pan juices. Serve with grilled flatbread and aïoli. ➤

MAKE IT GFReplace the flatbread

with corn tortillasfor an easy gluten-

free dinner.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 41

Spiced prawns SERVES 4

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil1 kg uncooked medium prawns2 garlic cloves, finely chopped1 long red chilli, finely chopped1 tbsp rosemary leaves

60 gm butter Lemon wedges and crusty bread

(optional), to serve

1 Heat half the oil in a large frying panover high heat. Add half the prawns tofill the pan in one layer and cook untilshells turn pink and crisp (1½ minuteseach side). Add half each of the garlic,chilli and rosemary, toss until fragrantand just cooked (1 minute). Remove frompan. Repeat with remaining ingredients. 2 Return all prawns to the pan, addbutter, and when melted remove fromthe heat. Serve with lemon wedgesand bread for mopping up the juices. ●

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Invite a rich, dark & mysteriousstranger to breakfast

Kumato® TomatoBreakfast Burger

Be adventurous. Add the dark colour and rich, bold fl avour of Kumato® tomatoes to salads, sandwiches and snacks.

For inspiring recipe ideas visit perfection.com.au

T he prawn cocktail is,quite possibly, one ofthe most iconic dinnerparty dishes in recent

history; see-sawing, as Nigel Slateronce wrote, “from the height offashion to the laughably passé”.Its popularity in Britain can betraced back to chef and foodwriter Fanny Cradock, who firstpublished a recipe for the dishin 1967. However, its origins arebelieved to stem from the UnitedStates and the 1920s Prohibitionera. Today, the retro appetisercontinues to appear on menusin various guises but always withthat signature Marie Rose sauce.

SK Steak and Oysterin Brisbane sticksto tradition, with

Mooloolaba king prawns,iceberg lettuce and

a dollop of Marie Rosesauce. The Gidley in

Sydney serves a spicy,decadent version,

accompanied by fourgolden, deep-fried prawn

heads on the side.

THE GREENSCos or gem lettuce leaves

are best for the job andshould be crisp, crunchy

and straight from theheart; they add anotherlayer of texture, acting

as a fresh, texturalcounterpart to the sauce.Avocado, while not strictly

traditional, has becomeanother popular addition,offering a soft creaminess

that pairs with thesweetness of the prawns.

F i n do n e

This classic seafood starter is a partypleaser that will never go out of style.

THE PRAWNSSteer clear of small, watery crustaceans; this

dish calls for plump king prawns, large enoughto dangle over the edge of the glass they adorn.Good-quality prawns are a must – they shouldbe slightly firm with a sweet, lingering flavour

and buttery richness. Most recipes call for themto be cooked, peeled and dried.

THE SAUCENot to be confused with

Thousand Island dressing,the original Marie Rose sauce

is made from mayonnaise,tomato sauce and lemon juice.Worcestershire sauce, Tabascoor horseradish can be added forheat, while some recipes suggest

a dash of Cognac or brandyto bring a sweeter edge.

Prawn cocktail

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 45

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A n a t o m y o f a d i s h

Encased in golden, buttery puff pastry, this simple party favourite is a guaranteed crowd pleaser.

Sausage rolls

Step by step

1To make rough puff pastry,place 3 cups (450gm) bread

flour and 2 tsp salt in a largebowl. Rub in 500gm cold,unsalted, chopped butter withyour fingertips until mixtureresembles coarse crumbs.Make a well in the centre.Add 1 cup (250ml) chilledwater and mix gently witha butter knife to a streakydough. Knead for 2 minutesor until a firm rough doughforms. Shape dough intoa rectangle. Cover withplastic wrap; refrigerateuntil chilled (20 minutes).

2 Roll dough on a lightlyfloured surface into

a 20cm x 50cm rectangle,

with the short side in frontof you. Fold dough into thirdsby bringing the top third downover the middle third, thenthe bottom third up to coverthe folded dough. Turn pastrya quarter turn to the right.Roll out to a rectangle again;repeat folding, turning androlling two more times, threetimes in total. Cut dough inhalf crossways. Cover withplastic wrap; refrigerate for a further 20 minutes.

3 To make sausage filling,dry-roast 1 tsp each

coriander and cumin seeds,and 1/2 tsp black peppercornsin a frying pan over high heatuntil fragrant (1-2 minutes).Cool briefly, then finely poundwith a mortar and pestle, andreserve. Heat olive oil in same

frying pan over medium heat,add 1 finely chopped smallonion and fry gently untilsoftened and translucent(10-12 minutes), then transferto a bowl to cool (15 minutes).

4 Soak 80gm breadcrumbsin 1 tbsp milk until soft

(1 minute), then combine ina large bowl with 600gmminced beef, 1/4 tsp groundcinnamon, cooked onion andpounded spices; mix well andseason. To check seasoning,fry a little mixture and taste.

5 Preheat oven to 200°C.Line three oven trays

with baking paper. Roll onehalf of the dough into a 30cmx 50cm rectangle; trim edges to straighten. Cut dough crossways into four

rectangles, about 12cm x28cm in size. Divide beefmixture into eight portions.Shape each portion intoa log with moistened hands.Place a log along the longside of a pastry rectangle;roll up to enclose. Placeseam-side down on trays.Repeat with remaining pastryand beef mixture. Refrigerate until chilled (15 minutes).

6 Cut each roll into threepieces and brush with

eggwash. Cut a couple ofslashes in the top of each roll,then season with salt flakesand freshly cracked blackpepper. Bake sausage rolls,in two batches, until puffedand golden (20 minutes).Serve with homemadetomato sauce or relish. ●

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W hat’s a party without a sausage roll? Not one we’dlike to be invited to. Wrapped in a blanket of goldenpuff pastry, these classic finger-food morsels are theperfect one-handed party snack (to keep your other

hand free for a Champagne glass, of course!).The secret to a show-stopping sausage roll is the pastry – it

should be sturdy enough to contain the filling yet wonderfully flakywhen you bite in. For the best result we prefer to make our own,but if you’re short on time use a good-quality store-bought pastry,such as Carême all-butter puff. This recipe makes 24 rolls and takes1 hour and 20 minutes (plus cooling). It’s time to crank the oven and get this party started.

F l a v o u r c o m b i n a t i o n s

When it comes to the filling you are only limitedby your imagination. The recipe below is forclassic beef sausage rolls, but you can mixit up with different herbs and spices, or evenadd some grated Parmesan for extra flavour.Alternatively, replace the minced beef with pork(make sure it’s fatty) and add toasted fennelseeds to replicate the beloved pork and fennelversion from Sydney’s Bourke Street Bakery.

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While 2020 has been a year of challenge andchange, amid the hardship and headaches have

been extraordinary tales of creativity, resilience andsocial enterprise. To celebrate the big ideas, bold

moves and successes, great and small, we presentthe Gourmet Traveller Hospitality Honours List.

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ADAM LISTON + SHOBOSHOIt was an impassioned social mediacall out from Shobosho head chefAdam Liston that helped promptthe Shobosho team into twocommunity-focused cookingprojects. The team took overlunch service duties at Adelaide’sWestCare Centre, where manyof the cooks were 60-plus andunable to keep volunteeringduring lockdown. Liston’s teamalso temporarily transformedShobosho into Dr Sho, using theirculinary skills to prep nourishingmeals exclusively for healthcareprofessionals. While the restauranthas returned to regular trading,Liston reflects on the difficult timeand how his team rallied together,positively. “It was rewarding,” hesays. “We didn’t do it for fame,we just wanted to keep busy.”

JESSI SINGHChef and restaurateur JessiSingh handed over the reinsof his newly opened Mr BrownieRooftop Hotel in Melbourne tochefs, winemakers and otherhospitality folk that neededa space to sell their wares(all rent- and commission-free).Singh also delivered meals to theSt Vincent’s Hospital emergencydepartment and sent meals tonurses and healthcare workerswho were stuck in quarantine.

HO JIAK GIVES BACKThe Town Hall outpost of thisexcellent Malaysian eatery inSydney offered free and low-costtakeaway meals to hospitalityworkers ineligible for JobKeeper.This isn’t the first iteration of therestaurant’s Ho Jiak Gives Backinitiative; earlier in the year theteam raised more than $20,000 for the Rural Fire Service.

COVID-19 EADBar owners Jason Chan(Seamstress) and Henry Le (Ends& Means) and chef Jez Berwickstarted the Covid-19 EmployeeAssistance Directive (EAD) as away to keep their stood-down stafffed, but it quickly grew, morphinginto a volunteer-staffed, donation-funded quasi-outreach programfor the Victorian hospitality industrythat has been pumping out up to

HOPE DELIVERYNeil Perry officially retired from Rockpool Dining Group in July but remainsin service thanks to his Hope Delivery initiative. The social enterpriselaunched in March, creating restaurant-standard meals for those in need– from the homeless and unemployed to migrant workers ineligible forJobKeeper and JobSeeker. Partnering with OzHarvest to distribute meals,as well as handing them out to people in the street in Sydney andMelbourne, Hope Delivery has shared more than 200,000 meals sinceit launched – and is still going strong. As Perry told GT in September:“A restaurant belongs to the community, and part of being in a communityis taking care of people who are less privileged.” Perry has certainlystepped up to the mark, both manning the pans to cook for Hope Deliveryand working the phones to raise funds to keep the initiative going.

3000 meals a week. Iain Ling (The Lincoln) and JasonLui (Flower Drum) are also on board, adding further ballast to the award-winning initiative.

BANKSIA SOUP KITCHENInspired by his work with food charity OzHarvest, chefand restaurateur Colin Fassnidge and his team fromBanksia Bistro in Sydney’s south supported familiesin their local community by supplying thousands offree meals to those doing it tough during lockdown.The project has continued well beyond lockdown into the latter half of this year.

OPEN KITCHENThis initiative from Milieu Hospitality, the peoplebehind Congress, Future Future and Lagottorestaurants in Melbourne, was set up to help feedhospo workers who lost their jobs or were facingdrastically reduced hours, and were ineligible forGovernment assistance. By coralling a group oflike-minded sponsors, Open Kitchen has been ableto supply free vegetarian meals twice a week sinceMay using an innovative ticketing system withallocated collection times to ensure social distancing.

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GIVING BACKWe salute those who reached out to the widercommunity, spearheaded charitable efforts andoffered practical support for the industry at large.

HARVEST BITESOriginally launched duringlockdown and continuing today,this swish meal-delivery servicefrom the always altruisticOzHarvest sees chefs from someof Sydney’s best restaurants(including Nomad, Quay, Firedoorand Spice Temple) take turns atcooking restaurant-quality mealsfor home diners. Each order allowsOzHarvest to deliver at least 40meals to people in need. “HarvestBites grew from the idea of notonly raising money to help supportthe growing number of peoplesuffering from food insecurity, butalso to get our chef ambassadorsback in the kitchen,” explainsOzHarvest founder Ronni Kahn.

THE ENTREE.PINAYSThis Melbourne-based collective of Filipinas is theperfect example of a modern food movement. Thecollective’s mission is to educate Australians aboutthe diversity of Filipino cuisine through food events(pre-Covid-19) and Instagram cookalongs (duringCovid-19), but it also has a strong sense of socialjustice. “Food has been our gateway to illicit prideamongst our community, but beyond that food lets usexplore issues within our community that run underthe surface,” says co-founder Grace Guinto. This year,the collective joined forces with Migrante Melbourneto support Filipino international students affectedby Covid-19 restrictions, by selling calamansi trees(native Filipino citrus) and drumming up financialsupport from local chefs, restaurant owners andits connected followers. “Food is the reason whyEntree.Pinays exists. So when food becomes soinsecure for someone, how can we truly celebratefood without recognising the hardship for others.”

ATTICA SOUP PROJECTWhen Attica owner Ben Shewry and food writerDani Valent learnt that temporary visa holders wereexcluded from government assistance they sought tomake soup with serious soul. When ordering Attica’sin-home menu, Melburnians can choose to add ona Thai-inspired chicken broth – $5 of the sale goestowards feeding unemployed hospitality workers on temporary visas.

COLOMBO SOCIALEven before the pandemic,Colombo Social in Sydney’sEnmore had good intentions atheart – set up as a restaurant andsocial enterprise that supportsasylum seekers and refugeestransition into their new lives.When the pandemic hit, therestaurant did what it does best:help others. “When Covid struckand we were forced to shut therestaurant, Kyle Wiebe fromMission Australia reached out witha request for food relief for tenantswho were left most at risk,” saysco-founder Peter Jones-Best.The team went on to cook 2000meals a week, also distributingthem through additional charitiesincluding Glebe Youth Servicesand Redlink Housing in Redfern.Now, Colombo Social has sentout more than 30,000 meals andlaunched its own kitchen trainingschool called Ability Social, whichoffers a comprehensive 20-week training program and paidemployment, while cookingmeals for the community.

CHAT THAI COMMUNITYChat Thai connected with itscommunity by providing freemeals to frontline staff, includingpolice, ambulance and fire services,as well as any staff who werestood down, and many othersin need. All while preparingto open a new restaurant in Sydney’s Neutral Bay.

Clockwise from top right: Harvest Bites’ chef ambassador Peter Gilmore and his team at Quay;Colombo Social’s free meals for those in need; Colombo Social co-owners Peter Jones-Best (left)and Shaun Christie-David. Opposite, from top: Hope Delivery’s Neil Perry; Ho Jiak’s charity meals.

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CHEFS ON WHEELSSpearheaded by Paul Baker (Botanic Gardens Restaurant), this home-delivery dining service quickly mobilised the chefs of Adelaide to deliverrestaurant-quality meals to private homes, providing a much-needed newrevenue stream for the city’s restaurants. “The Adelaide community isso tight,” says Baker. “When the chips are down, we pull together. That’swhy the success of Chefs on Wheels was easy.” Devised as a short-termsolution, Baker soon realised the business had a long-term future,stepping away from his restaurant role permanently and enlisting fellowtop chef Emma McCaskill (Sparkke at the Whitmore) to join him full-time.

LUMI HOME DININGLuMi’s intricate dégustation may seem impossible toreplicate in takeaway boxes, but that didn’t stop theteam from delivering some of the best takeaway mealson offer during Sydney’s lockdown. Each week, chefFederico Zanellato and his team created a comfortingseven-course extravaganza, inspired by the flavoursand techniques for which the restaurant is famous,including its signature pork pie, Sicilian caponata, and caramelised white-chocolate cheesecake.

FINE-DINING DELIVERYOutstanding examples of high-end,standard-setting food deliveredwith integrity, quality and heart.

PROVIDOOR

When lockdown hit and chef-restaurateur Shane Delialooked into delivery options for his venues, he didn’tlike what he found. So he decided to create his owndelivery platform: Providoor. The industry-led solutiongained traction with some of Melbourne’s best, includingSupernormal, Sunda, Maha, Flower Drum and Tipo 00,who were all quick to sign on. Providoor has beengrowing steadily for six months now, and focuses ondelivering premium restaurant experiences to your door.Rather than compromise the quality of meals, which riskarriving soggy and sweaty if delivered hot, each meal isprepared by a chef, then safely cold-freighted, with thefinishing touches added by diners at home. For manyrestaurants, Providoor has delivered a vital new incomestream that will continue as a long-term player in thefood delivery ecosystem. “Innovation has been key,”says Scott Pickett of Estelle, Lupo and Matilda. “Shane’sProvidoor is a great new way to purchase a restaurantexperience online to enjoy at home. Now more thanever it’s important to keep supporting your localrestaurants where you can as they work hard to keeptheir livelihoods, staff and suppliers afloat.”

Above: Providoor founder, chef Shane Delia. Opposite, clockwise from top: Attica at Home’s beeflasagne, garden salad and pull-apart garlic bread; Atlas chef Charlie Carrington hosted online cooking classes to accompany his masterclass meal boxes; Vue to You’s chocolate soufflé.

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VUE TO YOUVue de Monde’s executive chefHugh Allen fronted a series ofonline video masterclasses, whichaccompanied meal kits dubbedVue to You. Diners joined in thefun from home, learning how towhip up hard-to-master dishesby following easy, instructionalvideos. This made for anexperiential event that helpeddistract Melburnians from thedrudgery of lockdown, and keptthe Vue de Monde team inspiredand hopeful. “2020 was aboutbeing flexible and overcomingthe toughest challenge there hasmaybe ever been for restaurants,”says Allen. “It was remarkable tosee how everyone put egos asideto help each other, from differenttypes of businesses. There’s neverbeen more of a sense of communityin Australian hospitality than now.”

SUNDA EXPFor any restaurant to survive in 2020 is a feat in itself,but to creatively thrive through the process is trulyimpressive. Sunda head chef Khanh Nguyen tookhis culinary creativity to new heights when he beganplaying with pastry this year, delivering all manner ofinventive Southeast Asian mash-ups of the Frenchclassic, pâté en croûte. From mud crabs to wholechickens, there was nothing the chef didn’t wrap inpastry. He even shared video masterclasses to revealhow he created each culinary showstopper. At thesame time, he launched Sunda EXP, the restaurant’sown heat-and-eat-at-home offering, which includeda red curry sauce-stuffed prawn toast; wagyu beefcheeks with toasted coconut and a mushroom-soyglaze; and even a playful cheeseburger roti. Manyof Nguyen’s staff were encouraged to start their ownculinary side hustles, including sous chef Nabil Ansari,who made traditional Indian takeaway inspired by hismum’s cooking. While chef de partie John Riveralaunched an ice-cream business called KaritonSorbetes, drawing on flavours from the Philippines.If that’s not enough, Nguyen also made free meals for hospitality workers.

ATTICA AT HOMEWith the words “Never Give Up” spray-painted on thekitchen wall, the Attica team were driven to think up allkinds of accessible and interesting delivery options.From fine dining to family meals, Ben Shewry and co.cooked up a multitude of at-home offerings, includingthe playful Attica Bake Shop. You can even purchasethe ceramics used in the restaurant, made on-site byAttica chef and ceramicist Claire Ellis. As Melbourne’ssecond lockdown came into effect, the Attica teampartnered with Melbourne Food and Wine Festivalto keep spirits lifted with a live-streamed, cook-at-home dinner party, featuring music from The Avalanches.

ATLAS DINING MASTERCLASSMelbourne chef Charlie Carrington was a pioneerwhen it came to hosting online cooking classes withan accompanying meal box. Just like his restaurantAtlas Dining, which changes its menu every fourmonths to showcase a different regional cuisine, everymeal box offered a different flavour from around theglobe. The destination-inspired kits fed Melbourne,while also providing a slice of much-needed escapism– via Sri Lankan egg hoppers with dahl and greencoconut sambal, through to hearty German dishes ofpotted smoked pork hock, potato rosti and apple slaw.

“2020 was about being flexible andovercoming the toughest challenge.”

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SIMULATION SENPAIBY CHASE KOJIMAThis high-grade, masterfullymade sushi spin-off from Sokyohead chef Chase Kojima gaveSydneysiders a chance to indulgein a luxury many missed while inlockdown. Kojima elegantly packed boxes with strips of fatty toro,sweet prawns, rich tongues ofurchin and fleshy snapper, alldraped over sushi rice. MaximisingKojima’s connections with specialisttuna dealers and his knowledge ofthe seafood markets, SimulationSenpai set new standards fortakeaway meals. The luxe sushiboxes are still going strongwith deliveries continuing to goout every Friday and Saturday.

CHACO BAR’S TAKE-HOME RAMENAs Sydney went into lockdown, our May issue coverstar Chaco Bar was forced to shut its doors. But itwasn’t long before head chef Kieta Abe workedout how to reproduce his famous ramen from home.Freezing the broth and sending out ready-made noodles took some tinkering, but once mastered the ramenpacks were some of the first and finest out there.

PIPIT’S VIETNAMESE POP-UPChef Ben Devlin and wife Yen Trinh’s regional NSWrestaurant is typically known for its contemporary-coastal cuisine, but from May to August it transformedinto a Vietnamese hotspot called Mr Trinh’s. Thetakeaway shop dished up Moreton Bay bug bánh mì,spanner crab rice porridge, and doughnuts filled withVietnamese coffee custard. “It felt like such a stressfulwhirlwind at the time, but I did appreciate that whenyou have everything and nothing to lose, there’s realcreative freedom,” says Trinh. “The importance andenergy of local communities was also magnified.” Thetemporary Vietnamese takeaway was so loved bylocals, it will return as a weekend pop-up in the future.

LAGOON DINING EXPRESSAll about ease and convenience,Lagoon’s vacuum-sealed heat-and-eat meals – from fiery dan dannoodles to rich butter chicken –have a shelf life of up to 15 days,a boon for when the inevitableday came each week whenMelburnians just could not facecooking again. But it wasn’t allabout shelf life – weekends weremarked with daily specials. A friedchicken roll or a Lagoon fave, hotand sour shredded potato, gavethe weekend meaning again.

SÁNG BY MABASA DELIVERYSáng By Mabasa pedalled hard,with manager Kenny Yong SooSon doing home-delivery roundson an electric bike. In the kitchen,his parents Jin Sun Son and SeungKee Son made take-home batchesof Korean specialties, includingmandu (dumplings), jokbal (braisedpig’s trotters) and kimchi jjigae,which were complemented bybeautifully shot instructional videos(with bonus mukbang content) byKenny and his partner YoumeeJeon. Proof that a tiny family-runrestaurant can do very big things.

MR NILAND AT HOMEJosh Niland and the Fish Butcheryteam created meal kits that werethe highlight of many Sydneysiders’lockdown. One night it could besemolina spaghetti (made by MitchOrr, formerly CicciaBella) with XOvongole; the next, tiger prawn andocean-trout sausage jambalaya.Much like at his standalone venueSaint Peter, Niland executed the dishes with finesse and flair.

PIVOTING HARDFrom take-home ramen packs to a drive-throughpasta shop, these quick and clever pivots sethigh standards and paved the way for others.

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NAPIER QUARTERThis friendly neighbourhoodwine bar in Fitzroy, Melbournetransformed into a homelytakeaway wine store, providoreand “paninoteca” where punterscould pick up mortadella-loadedsandwiches, gorgeous galletes,lamb roasts, jars of pâté andvegetable soups, alongside groceries and pastries.

RUYI AT HOMESheng Fang and his wife Qian QianLuo-Fang got the memo early:Melburnians in lockdown wantedcomfort food. And nothing sayscomfort like a dumpling, so theirsuave, modern Chinese restaurantbecame a handmade dumplingmachine pumping out excellentshao long bao, chilli wontons, porkand chive dumplings. An addedbonus? The frozen dumplingsbeing delivered by the charming owners themselves.

LEE HO FOOK AT HOMEVictor Liong twigged thattraditional takeaway wouldn’tdo his food justice, so he wentthe finish-at-home option. Thecrowning achievement is thePeking Duck for the Homepack; the dry-aged, malt-glazed,air-pumped Aylesbury duck,pancakes, and accompanyingvegetables and sauces are simpleto prepare but with just enough cooking to feel a sense of achievement.

LUNE DELIVERYThis ever-buzzy Melbournecroissanterie selected differentsuburbs to drive to each day todeliver freshly baked croissantsand cruffins, so folks living outsideof Lune’s five-kilometre radius couldstill enjoy the cult baked goods.The lucky dip saw them visit morethan 150 suburbs, from Coburgto Mt Eliza in the Lune-mobile.

RAGAZZI + FABBRICA: PASTA TO GOTransforming a dine-in restaurant intoa drive-through is a standout idea, andone that Ragazzi owners Nathanial Hatwell,Matthew Swieboda and Scott McComas-Williams executed within days of closingtheir Italian wine and pasta bar in Sydney’sCBD. Customers could simply drive (orwalk) by and pick up a fresh pasta packwith duck ragù or puttanesca sauce to go.On the other side of town, Hatwell andSwieboda’s other venues – Dear SainteÉloise and Love, Tilly Devine – pivoted tolush produce boxes, trays of lasagne andtheir own line of pantry goods. Now, allof their venues have reopened, includinga shiny new location called Fabbrica:a stand-alone pasta deli and bar on KingStreet. “The world has changed a lot thisyear,” says Swieboda. “We wanted to createa shop that empowers customers toproduce amazing restaurant-quality pastameals at home.” It was the enthusiasticresponse they received during lockdownthat empowered them to push forward withthe project, which opened in early October.Alongside the permanent retail offeringof Fabbrica, the team is also focused onfinessing the outdoor seating at their sisterwine bars, Dear Sainte Éloise and Love, TillyDevine, thanks to City of Sydney’s relaxedrestrictions around al fresco dining.

“We wanted to createa shop that empowerscustomers to produce

restaurant-qualitymeals at home.”

Above: Fabbrica co-owners (from left) Nathanial Hatwell,Cam Birt, Scott McComas-Williams and Matthew Swieboda.Opposite, from bottom left: Hoseki bako box from SimulationSenpai; Lagoon Dining’s butter chicken, lu rou fan and beefrendang; Lagoon Dining Express beef rendang; Mr Trinh’s duck bánh mì.

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BABAJAN 2.0Babajan owner Kirsty Chiaplias permanently switched her Carlton North brunchhaven to a takeaway Turkish emporium. Floor-to-ceiling timber bakery shelvesare now packed with boreks, simits, bread and pastries, while the front counteris filled with an abundance of rice pilafs and salads, Turkish fish sandwiches,cakes and family meals of moussaka, 12-hour braised lamb shoulders and more.The new-look Babajan also includes Turkish and Middle Eastern pantry staples,such as harissa, Aleppo, za’atar, zhoug and olives, alongside groceries.“Customers might not be able to sit down and enjoy an eggplant-Aleppo toastieright now, but they can buy a jar of Aleppo, a loaf of sourdough, eggs andpickles to recreate it at home,” says Chiaplias. While positive in this interimperiod, Chiaplias is pinning her hopes on the introduction of outdoor seatingas restrictions are eased. “I’d love to have people sit outside with a coffee ora glass of wine," she says. “To put food on a plate would really be something.”

AGNES BAKERY + BOTTLE SHOPChef Ben Williamson was slatedto open his new Brisbanerestaurant in March, but insteadAgnes opened as a bakery andbottle shop. The temporary fixturesold smoked potato sourdough,fig and custard kouign-amanns,pumpkin and pork pizzette, androsewater brûlée choux buns,alongside cheese, salumi, pickles and smoked butter.

SIXPENNY GENERAL STOREFor three months this fine-diner inSydney’s Stanmore operated as ageneral store. Instead of preparinga modern-Australian tasting menufor 34 diners, Dan Puskas and histeam baked cakes and loaves ofsourdough, made jam, and filledbottles with Sixpenny chilli sauceto be sold to a never-ending line ofcustomers that formed outside therestaurant each weekend. “We’dopen orders at 5pm on Friday, andby Saturday morning there wouldbe 90 or so orders. Some peoplespent $300 on cake!” recallsPuskas. “We weren’t expecting such a positive response.”

THE SUMMERTOWNARISTOLOGIST VEGETABLE BOXThis Adelaide restaurant offeredorganic vegetable boxes fromthe beginning of lockdown. Theshop-pivot also included bunchesof freshly picked native flowers,wine and coffee. It was the perfectwarm-up for its larder-meets-cellar door, which opened in June.

MARTA ROMAN BAKERYIt wasn’t unusual to see a queuesnaking 20-plus metres fromthis Rushcutters Bay restaurant-turned-Roman bakery. That’sbecause its sfogliatelle stuffedwith prosciutto and herbed ricotta,mortadella- and provolone-filledpanini and profiteroles withpiped coffee cream had half of Sydney talking.

CAFE PACI’S FINNISH BAKERYPasi Pentänen has always beenfiercely innovative, so it was nosurprise that his iteration ofa bakery was one of the mostclever and forward-thinking inSydney. Punters queued in neatlydistanced lines to snap up Finnishpastries and playful bakery treats,like black pudding sausage rolls,carrot-and-licorice cakes (a funtake on a Cafe Paci dessert), andpotato and molasses rye bread topped with gravlax.

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ST ALI GENERAL STORECalling St Ali coffee roastersor a café no longer suffices.In response to the pandemic,it produced hand sanitiser,sustainable hemp and copperface masks, and ran a generalstore, which showcased thebest producers from right across Victoria.

SEASONS FRUIT MARKET ONLINEWhen lockdown saw Sydney’sChinatown shuttered, the hit tothis mostly wholesale grocerystore was instant. So the Fufamily decided to take SeasonsFruit Market online, sellinghome-delivered Asian groceries.The online store was a radicalchange, considering the shop onlyinstalled an Eftpos machine in late2019. But the future-proofedonline store is now here to stay.

KING & GODFREE GROCERIESJust after a substantial renovationtransformed King & Godfree fromdeli and bottle shop to a sleekdining hub, Melbourne’s oldestlicensed grocery store deftlyreturned to its roots offering anextensive, Italian-leaning array ofgrocery, deli and bottle shop items alongside a take-home mealsmenu of Italy’s greatest hits.

THAI KEE IGA: CHEF MEALSThis independent grocery storein Sydney’s Haymarket suppliedchef-prepped meals from the likesof Ho Jiak, Chaco Ramen, Ippudoand Sydney Cebu Lechon, aswell as chilli oil made by PatrickFriesen and dumplings by Lotus head chef Sam Young.

TEDESCA OSTERIA’SCURATED WEEKLY BOXBrigitte Hafner’s MorningtonPeninsula osteria was createdwith a fierce focus on localproduce when it opened inJanuary. No surprise then thatits beautifully considered WeeklyBox of cooked goods and rawproduce stuck to the theme.Local lamb, vegetables, cheeseand fruit came in themedcombinations, matched with cocktails and wine.

BRAE PRODUCE BOXDan Hunter and his team hadput too much love into thevegetable gardens, orchards andpaddocks surrounding Brae to letany of that good stuff go to waste.So they became market gardeners,selling boxes of fresh organicproduce alongside baked goodsfrom the woodfired oven, take-home meals and a few groceries.

BAKERY + PRODUCE PROSLeaders in transformation, these restaurants andstores supplied baked goods and gourmet groceries at a time when supermarket shelves were empty.

MARION’S COMMUNITYQuick thinking kept AndrewMcConnell’s Fitzroy wine barpowering through the pandemicvia vegetable boxes (with recipesuggestions for signature dishes)and a collaboration with one ofMelbourne’s best bakeries BakerBleu that granted northsidersaccess to that raisin and cinnamonchallah. Along with selling wine,bread, produce and take-homemeals, Marion also dished up amuch-needed sense of communitythat’s now taking roost at MorningMarket, the permanent grocerystore just a few doors from Marion.

From above:Marion’s freshpastries;mortadella fromKing & Godfree’sdeli. Opposite,from top left:Babajan’sflourless orangecake; Babajanowner KirstyChiaplias; theFu family outsideSeasons Fruit Market.

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JUICE TRADERS BOTTLE SHOPStarting an online bottle shop wassomething Leigh Street Wine Roomowners Sali and Nathan Sasi hadalways wanted to do, but neverquite had the time. Then Covid-19hit and Juice Traders finally cameto fruition. “The Adelaide Hills hassome incredible producers andwinemakers – and we’d havecustomers in our venue drinkingit and asking ‘This stuff is so good,how come you can’t buy it frombottle shops?’ – so we knew therewas a market out there,” saysNathan, who announced in Julythat he was hanging up his chef’sapron to focus on growing the twobusinesses full-time. “It’s amazingthe great opportunities that cancome out of a bad situation.”

PS40’S SOFA SERIESThis Sydney bar was one of thefirst to offer their world-classcocktails in delivery form, withowner Michael Chiem hand-delivering bottled tipples on hisVespa. Dubbed the “Sofa Series”,the cocktails encapsulated PS40’s enthusiasm and originality.

JACOBY’S + EARL’S JUKE JOINT:COCKTAILS TO GOThe Enmore tiki bar and Newtown cocktail den both bottled theirsignature cocktails in playfulhand-labelled vessels at the verybeginning of lockdown. Now theyhave become permanent offerings– Jacoby’s partnered with Curatifto release a canned Mai Tai, whilethe Earl’s range is available at BWS.

CONTINENTAL DELI:COCKTAILS IN A CANSuccess comes in cans, not can’ts– especially when it comes toSydney’s Continental Deli, whichbegan delivering its popularcanned cocktails mid-lockdown.The bar and restaurant’s Mar-tinny– rechristened the Quaran-tinny –was offered alongside Can-hattansand Cosmopoli-tins. Cocktailsweren’t the only thing to get thetinned treatment, with soups andstews also on the menu, along with the now infamous flan in a can.

1889 ENOTECA WINE DELIVERYThe team at Brisbane’s 1889 Enoteca is typicallyknown for recreating the robust flavours of Rome.But during peak-Covid-19 the restaurant moved intothe burgeoning wine-delivery market. Vino a Casawas born out of circumstance, but met with a sell-outresponse, with packs of hard-to-find minimal-intervention wine delivered straight to your door. Its ongoingsuccess has seen it become a permanent fixture.

QUARANTINI TIMEA toast to the clever booze offerings thathelped us see our glasses as half full (with delicious drinks) instead of half empty.

READY-TO-DRINK COCKTAILS

The Everleigh Bottling Co. released two “volumes” of theMelbourne Mixtape – a mixed pack of ready-to-drink cocktails fromsome of the city’s best cocktail bars. The pre-mixed tipples servedas a tasty way to support small bars as they remained closedthrough Melbourne’s lockdown, with all proceeds going directly tothe bars involved. The second volume included drinks from AboveBoard, Bar Americano, Bar Margaux, Black Pearl, Byrdi, Capitano,Mjolner and The Everleigh. Now that’s something worth toasting.

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Clockwise from top: The Everleigh Bottling Co. MelbourneMixtape; Juice Trader’s Nathan Sasi. Opposite, from top:Cookbooks by Somekind Press; Nomad’s Cook for the Bush brunch.

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SOMEKIND PRESS COOKBOOKSSomekind rapidly launched Project Take Away, a

crowdfunded cookbook series, which raised more than

$200,000 for local restaurants and businesses. Some

of the recipes immortalised in the series came from

Australia’s best restaurants, including Lee Ho Fook,

Pipit, Lankan Filling Station, Ester and more.

MELBOURNE FOOD AND WINE FESTIVALOne of the first major events to be put on hold, the

Melbourne Food and Wine Festival maintained

a positive presence via online cooking demonstrations.

It also celebrated culinary icons through its legends

series and hosted an epic celebrity sandwich battle.

DEEP IN THE WEEDS PODCAST Food writer Anthony Huckstep played the role of host

and counsellor in this prolific series, which shared

stories from throughout the industry in real time. From

initial dismay and despair, to surprise successes, these

deep-dive interviews became essential listening.

HONOURABLE MENTIONS

Outside of restaurants and bars, wesaw friends of the industry rally tooffer all manner of support.

This year has shown how

adversity can drive innovation,

so it’s little surprise that the

states and cities most severely

affected by Covid-19 and

subsequent restrictions saw

businesses pivot the hardest.

States such as Tasmania, WA

and Qld have enjoyed greater

freedom than others, and thus,

are not equally represented in

this list. We acknowledge every

hospitality business across

Australia has done it tough this

year and we salute them all.

HUMMUS LE BEIRUT Melbourne’s Bar Saracen raised

more than $20,000 for Red Cross

Lebanon, following the devastating

Beirut explosion. Head chef Tom

Sarafian made and sold more than

300kg of hummus. Sarafian said:

“Beirut is an incredibly special city.

It taught me to make the best

hummus... I owe a great deal of

my career to Beirut’s hospitality

and generosity.” The Hummus Le

Beirut project went down in the

middle of Melbourne’s lockdown,

but it turned the humble dip into

a symbol of hope and connection.

Covid wasn’t the only cause to mobilise the industry in 2020 to come together for a greater good.

COOK FOR THE BUSH FUNDRAISER As bushfires ravaged the country at the start of 2020,

Nomad executive chef Jacqui Challinor rallied

together some of Sydney’s best chefs and restaurants

to raise funds for the Red Cross with an epic Sunday

brunch and bake sale. Peter Gilmore, Lennox Hastie

and Palisa Anderson were just some of the good sorts

who donated their time and baked goods, raising

more than $140,000 in the process.

BRUNCH FOR BEIRUT

Kepos & Co’s Michael Rantissi called upon hospitality

friends to host a special brunch series in August,

raising $15,000. Pepe Saya’s Pierre Issa and Almond

Bar’s Carol and Sharon Salloum joined the cause,

while sharing stories of their time spent in Beirut.

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G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 61

N E W I N

Opening a new restaurant is always challenging. Opening a newrestaurant and weathering the storm of 2020 requires Herculeanlevels of grit, determination and resilience. We toast the best new openings around Australia from the past 12 months.

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Maha Bar

Opened February 2020Who Shane DeliaVibe Handsome and romantic modern Middle Eastern bar.

Verdict Is Shane Delia’s gorgeous, glamorous Collingwood barhis best work yet? The harissa and turmeric braised beef-stuffedborek bun, arak pickled cucumbers and brilliant hummus servedwith maple-roasted carrots would say yes. Service is great too,as is the on-theme wine list with its Lebanese wine producers and selection of raki and arak.86 Smith St, Collingwood, (03) 9417 3531, mahabar.com.au

Gimlet at Cavendish House

Opened June 2020Who Andrew McConnellVibe New York-style French bar and bistro given a McConnell makeover.

Verdict The 10 minutes it was allowed to open in June gavea tantalising glimpse of chic Gimlet’s potential – a big, beautifulManhattan-referencing room with a central bar, leather booths anda menu that mixes marron with saffron rice, wood-fired flatbreadwith clams and chilli, house-made gelati and great cocktails –Gimlets, of course, alongside Leanne Altman’s superb wine list.33 Russell St, Melbourne, (03) 9277 9777, gimlet.melbourne

Lagoon Dining

Opened November 2019Who Chris Lerch, Keat Lee and Ned Trumble (co-owners)Vibe Smart, tasty Melb-Asian in the heart of Little Italy.

Verdict A crack team of Ezard alumni joined forces atthis modern pan-Asian diner to great, super-tasty effect.Whitewashed brick walls, a black granite bar and a focal-pointopen kitchen play backdrop to a menu of playful, vibrantdishes including not-to-be-missed hot-and-sour potatoes toXinjiang-spiced lamb ribs and a vibrant mango pudding. There’s great wine too and must-do, theme-appropriate cocktails.263 Lygon St, Carlton, (03) 9349 1939, lagoondining.com

Tedesca Osteria

Opened January 2020Who Brigitte HafnerVibe A modern Australian takeon a traditional Italian osteria.

Verdict Brigitte Hafner’sMornington Peninsula trattoria isone of the best-looking restaurantsin the country and one of themost original. Nailing the illusive“eating in someone’s house” vibe,it features a fixed-price menu oflocal ingredients cooked by Hafnerin a kitchen that’s not so much“open” as in the room. Immersiveand heartfelt, Tedesca should be at the top of every to-do list.1175 Mornington-Flinders Rd, Red Hill, tedesca.com.au

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Omnia

Opened November 2019Who Larry Kestelman (owner) and Stephen Nairn (chef)Vibe Casual high-end bistro for local scenesters.

Verdict Chef Stephen Nairn cooks some of the best, most finessedbistro food in town – pastry cigars filled with smoked ocean troutand lemon crème fraîche, Gruyère custard tart with marinatedcapsicum, dry-aged pork belly with roasted peach – in a huge,surprisingly well-serviced room kitted out for comfort and SouthYa Ya razzle dazzle. A voluminous wine list completes the picture.625 Chapel St, South Yarra, (03) 8080 8080, omniabistro.com.au

V I C T O R I AE D I T E D BY M I C H A E L H A R D E N

The Hardware Club

Opened November 2019Who Andrea Ceriani (co-owner) and Nicola Dusi (chef and co-owner)Vibe Retro cool Melb-Italian.

Verdict It’s flavour over dogma at this stylish retro diner thatdelivers northern Italian trattoria goods through a distinctlyMelbourne filter. Chef Nicola Dusi combines big flavours with animpressively deft sense of balance – Brussels sprouts elevatedby tonnato sauce; radicchio tossed with honey, walnuts andlentils; ravioli stuffed with toe-curlingly good ossobuco – plus solid Italian wine and thoroughly good-natured service.Upstairs, 43 Hardware Lane, Melbourne, (03) 9670 1110, thehardwareclub.com

From far left: Beef buns and arak at MahaBar; Tedesca Osteria’s welcoming diningroom; fried sardines at The Hardware Club.

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Mimi’s & Una Más

Opened January 2020Who Jordan Toft (executive chef)Vibe Two opulent seaside eateries with seductive Mediterranean vibes.

Verdict At Mimi’s, expect silver service in a breezy beachsidesetting. The menu is seasonal with dishes centred around animpressive Josper charcoal oven, including whole grilled fish,salt-baked mud crabs, and wagyu rib eye. As for drinks, thewine list could be the most extensive in town. For a morerelaxed experience, saunter next door to Una Más and graba couple of flavour-packed tapas plates – charred octopuswith fermented habanero sauce, hot pork terrine – and a bottle of funky minimal-intervention wine for a real good time.Coogee Pavilion, 130a Beach St, Coogee, (02) 9114 7324, merivale.com

Nomad

Opened October 2020Who Jacqui Challinor (executive chef), Rebecca and Al Yazbek (owners)Vibe Old space, polished new energy.

Verdict If there’s one thing Jacqui Challinor has provenover the past 12 months, it’s that she can create deliciousfood in any space – with or without a woodfired oven. Now,back at the original Foster St digs, a year after fire destroyedthe restaurant, Nomad 2.0 breathes new life with refreshed interiors and a larger, open kitchen centered arounda woodfired oven, once again. An extended kitchen counter offers the best seat in the house.16 Foster St, Surry Hills, (02) 9280 3395, nomadwine.com.au

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Cafe Paci

Opened November 2019Who Pasi Petänen (chef and owner)Vibe A cool, casual taste of Europe in (mostly) snack form.

Verdict Pasi Petänen brings his Finnish heritage toa modern Australian menu of mostly small, shareableplates. Cloud-like pillows of potato come smotheredin a rich trout sauce that radiates mellow heat. It’s XObut not as you know it. Start with the devilled eggs– buttery, whipped yolk topped with salty bursts of troutroe – and work your way through to sourdough pasta orClarence River prawns. A natty wine list of predominantly Italian drops comes courtesy of Giorgio de Maria.131 King St, Newtown, (02) 9550 6196, cafepaci.com.au

Restaurant Leo

Opened June 2020Who Federico Zanellato (chef and co-owner) and Karl Firla (co-owner)Vibe Clean and minimalist Mediterranean.

Verdict Tucked away in an inner-city laneway, Restaurant Leois the destination of choice for those looking to indulge in anold-fashioned long lunch. The minimalist decor is mirrored bythe menu, which offers a handful of refined, seasonal dishesthat hero single ingredients. Ruby red tuna crudo comesbathed in thick golden olive oil, while the koshihikari risottowith cuttlefish is a glossy, black flavour bomb. A truffle-infused tartufo may just be the best new dish in town.1/2-12 Angel Place, Sydney, (02) 9235 3383, restaurantleo.com.au

The Gidley

Opened November 2019Who Pip Pratt (head chef), James Bradey and Warren Burns (co-owners)Vibe An American-style steakhouse in a labyrinthine den.

Verdict Old-school charm meets pure gluttony at The Gidley,a cracking basement steakhouse by the Bistecca crew. There isbeef, of course, and boy is it good; the 220gm spinalis the pickof four prime-rib roast cuts. Other highlights include a prawncocktail complete with a side of fried prawn heads, a meticulouslylayered potato gratin, and a zingy salad of shaved Brusselssprouts jewelled with peas, corn and hazelnut. Settle into a plushvelvet booth and sip big, juicy reds from Piedmont to Burgundy. 161 King St, Sydney, (02) 9169 6898, thegidley.com.au

Ho Jiak Town Hall

Opened March 2020Who Junda Khoo (chef and co-owner) and William Xie (co-owner)Vibe The buzzy, neon-lit sister of a Chinatown stalwart.

Verdict Sydney’s third Ho Jiak outpost is big, bustling andoffers an impressive menu of punchy Malaysian fare as we’vecome to expect from its first two. Portions are generous andmade to share; wok-kissed char kway teow comes adornedwith your seafood of choice, wagyu is slow cooked until buttersoft in a fiery rendang curry, while duck and chicken eggscombine in a silky custard known as sam wong dan. Quirkyand colourful cocktails are accompanied by a decent wine list. 125 York St, Sydney, (02) 8065 6954, hojiak.com.au

Clockwise from top left: Interiors at Mimi’s;Cafe Paci’s chicken liver Paris-Brest withonion jam; dishes at Ho Jiak Town Hall;relaxed Mediterranean vibes at Una Más.

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Q U E E N S L A N D

Agnes

Opened August 2020Who Ben Williamson (chef and co-owner), Tyron Simon, Frank Li and Bianca Marchi (co-owners)Vibe A darkly beautiful venue manned by a team with talent to burn.

Verdict Expect myriad grill thrills and plenty of dry-aged carnivoretreats. But Agnes is way more than just a “hot coals, good times”kinda gal. Consider the snacks. Smoky bonito sandwichedbetween soft rounds of white bread and dialled up with creamywhite ’nduja with a tangy white strawberry salsa. Or scarletprawn doughnuts amped with Vietnamese mint. This moodily litwarehouse conversion, with its hidden al fresco rooftop terrace and well-stocked bar is 2020’s surprise package. On fire. 22 Agnes St, Fortitude Valley, (07) 3067 9087, agnesrestaurant.com.au

SK Steak & Oyster

Opened December 2019Who Kelvin Andrews (chef and co-owner), Simon Gloftis and Theo Kampolis (co-owners)Vibe Glamorous dining with grown-up service in a venue tailored to impress.

Verdict Ensconced in the capital’s most fashionable hotel,SK Steak & Oyster feels like Brisbane’s ultimate virtual getaway.An escape portal to better times, abetted by a tome-like winelist, white-jacketed staff and an evocative fit-out. It’s bright andairy by day and flatteringly low-lit by night. Soaring ceilings,plush banquettes and linen-napped tables provide a cossetingbackdrop for the lush likes of lobster risotto and oystersfinished with frothing Billecart-Salmon. Or perhaps just a $32wagyu burger and a Martini, or three. A contemporary takeon the US grill that’s become an instant institution.The Calile Hotel, 48 James St, Fortitude Valley, (07) 3252 1857, sk-so.com

Same, Same

Opened November 2019Who Ben Bertei (chef and co-owner), Tyron Simon and Frank Li (co-owners)Vibe High-octane Thai prettily elevated to suit upscale surrounds.

Verdict Striking digs with pale oak timber detailing, graciouscurves and tropical plants make this chic successor to theowner’s wildly popular Longtime a feast for the eyes as well asthe belly. An on-trend wine list, mainly organic, is compellingly puttogether. Kick off with a signature G&T and snacks – prawn larbtacos and betel leaf miang perhaps, then segue to smoky grilledprawns daubed with pickled chilli butter, or a signature yellowcurry of Bundaberg Bay bug. There’s a cracking $65 banquet, too. It’s loud and it’s fun. But it’s definitely not same-same.Ada Lane, 46 James St, Fortitude Valley, (07) 3188 1418, samesamerestaurant.com.au

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Yoko Dining

Opened November 2019Who Jonathan Barthelmess (owner) and Kitak Lee (chef)Vibe High-energy, tightly focused Japanese fun.

Verdict There’s never a dull moment at Yoko, a sleeksubtropical interpretation of boisterous Japanese izakaya.Head upstairs to a hidden mezzanine area for late-night partytimes, or relish Brisbane’s climate in a sunny riverfront booth.Inside, skilfully lit double-height interiors provide insight intothe original warehouse building. Try a creamy fleshed kingfishcollar or get beefy with sesame and onion boosted wagyuintercostals. The Yoko Feast ($80) provides a tasty overviewand Yoko’s heaped shaved milk iced dessert, enriched withnutty roasted soy kinako, is a suitably chilled-out finish.Howard Smith Wharves, 2/5 Boundary St, Brisbane, (07) 3236 6582, yokodining.com.au

Stanley

Opened November 2019Who Louis Tikaram (executive chef)Vibe Enduring Chinese classics served with panache in chic waterfront digs.

Verdict Set dramatically on the riverfront beneath the industrialribs of the Story Bridge, this bustling newcomer brings old-schoolHong Kong style to Brisbane. It’s a feeling that persists whetheryou’re dining al fresco on the deck or installed at a table in theheritage two-storey venue. Expect (mainly) Cantonese favourites– roast duck with five-spice sauce, say, or a chilli-amped kungpao chicken and sweet and sour pork all skilfully elevated bya kitchen headed by gun chef Louis Tikaram.Howard Smith Wharves, 5 Boundary St, Brisbane, (07) 3558 9418, stanleyrestaurant.com.au

Clockwise fromtop right: Stanleyexecutive chefLouis Tikaram;Yoko Dining’sokonomiyaki;bar seating atSame Same;Lamb ribs withsesame wheycaramel, andcharred carrotswith smokedlabne at Agnes.

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Hearth

Opened November 2019Who Jed Gerrard (executive chef)Vibe The West Australian barbecue, reimagined.

Verdict From the polished, high-ceilinged dining room to thebespoke staff uniforms, Hearth looks every part the glam,in-house restaurant you’d expect to find at Perth’s Ritz-Carlton.Less expected, however, is the elegant way the kitchen uses fireto showcase and celebrate West Australian ingredients. From thepleasures of cold-smoked snapper carpaccio to a camembertice-cream with grilled quince and toasted sandalwood nuts,Hearth offers a compelling taste of the west.The Ritz-Carlton Perth, 1 Barrack St, Perth, (08) 6559 6888, hearthrestaurant.com.au

Coogee Common

Opened March 2020Who Scott Brannigan (executive chef), Nic Trimboli and Adrian Fini (co-owners) Vibe A kitchen-garden restaurant with a side of history.

Verdict Post office. Orphanage. Racecourse. The sprawlingCoogee Hotel site on Cockburn Road has assumed variousidentities over the past 120 years, but none quite as ambitious as this vision of mid-century beauty and old Australiana.Thoughtfully renovated dining rooms aside, the sprawlingkitchen garden is Coogee Common’s other USP with eachday’s pickings informing the comforting menu that runs from barbecued broccoli and pumpkin agnolotti to elevated counter meals and ploughman’s platters.371 Cockburn Road, Coogee, 0451 830 371, coogeecommon.com.au

Left: Spiced Mottainai lamb,zucchini and sheep’s yoghurtat Hearth. Below: interiors andgarden at Coogee Common.

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S O U T H A U S T R A L I A

Fino Vino

Opened December 2019Who David Swain (executive chef and co-owner), Sharon Romeo (co-owner)Vibe A taste of wine country in the city.

Verdict An open kitchen hums with focused energy to delivera compact menu that places emphasis on seasonal freshness.The bar is busy, stocked with an intelligent wine collectionspanning a broad church of regions, flavours and textures.Informed staff suggest appropriate combinations of dishesbest shared, from luscious pork cutlet with celeriac purée andtoasted quinoa to a winning bowl of braised king mushroomswith riced potatoes. Spare some room for dessert. With foodthis consistently good, the temptation is to keep grazing.82 Flinders St, Adelaide, (08) 8232 7919, finovino.net.au

ShoSho

Opened July 2020Who Adam Liston (chef and co-owner), Simon Kardachi (co-owner)Vibe A fun, flirty snack attack of Japanese flavours.

Verdict The fun-loving little sister to Leigh Street’s celebratedShobosho, ShoSho focuses unapologetically on tempura, whilekeeping things fresh and light. The menu brings a smile beforethe dishes arrive; think shallot pancake with Laughing Cowcheese; scallops and crunchy potatoes for snacks; and tempurawhiting with a wasabi tartare sauce. A tempura lattice of scallop,prawn and kohlrabi kakiage is a highlight, best eaten immediatelyafter you’ve poured over hot dashi. A solid wine list sits alongsideJapanese liqueurs (umeshu and yuzushu), sake and cocktails.164 King William Rd, Hyde Park, (08) 8349 0891, shosho.com.au

Tuna tataki, wasabi,ponzu, ginger oil atShoSho. Top left: winestorage at Fino Vino.

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New regulations for restaurants mean new expectationsfor diners. GEORGIE MEREDITH lays out the golden

rules for group dining this party season.

M I N D

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M A N N E R S

P arty season is upon us – that time of year, kicking off in November, whenelated summer gatherings merge with Christmas festivities and every dayof the week feels like an occasion. Traditionally, it’s a time when friends,colleagues and loved ones gather in groups and descend upon our cities’

bars and restaurants to drink and dine, creating that infectious, flirtatious energyone might witness at a music festival.

This year, however, is looking a little different; restaurants across the countryare required to comply with a new, uncompromising set of rules put in place bythe Government to minimise the spread of Covid-19. This includes strict physicaldistancing and table restrictions in some states; alcohol can only be served toseated diners, menus must be laminated, and self-serve buffets are a definite no.There’s also a cap on the number of guests allowed to dine in a venue at any onetime, with numbers differing from state to state.

Kane Way, operations manager at The Apollo in Sydney, believes understandingthese regulations is the key to being a gracious guest in the current dining climate.“There are more regulations around restaurants than ever before, and that’s a bigadjustment for the restaurant and the guests,” says Way. “But it’s about keepingeveryone safe.”

It is with these new rules for restaurants that, consequently, another set emerges for diners, particularly those in groups. Here, with guidance from three front-of-house experts, we lay out the golden rules for group dining this party season.

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For restaurants, a no-show is always disappointing. But now, with

such limited capacity, a group not turning up to their booking or

cancelling last minute can seriously deplete a restaurant’s revenue.

“It’s quite hard,” says Tasso Della Noce, general manager at Icebergs

Dining Room & Bar in Sydney. “If someone goes onto a set menu,

which is usually prepped and laid out beforehand, then you can’t

really sell that à la carte,” he says. “We also staff for groups, so if

there’s a cancellation or a no-show we have to send staff home.”

S E L F - A S S E S S

While cancelling last-minute can hurt, it’s important to note that

if diners are not feeling well they should stay at home. “I think with

larger groups, everyone needs to do that self-assessment before

going out,” says Way. “I think that idea of not wanting to let your

mates down or cancel because of a cold has all been turned on its

head now. Everyone would prefer for you to stay at home if you

felt like you had a bit of a sniffle.”

A R R I V E A T Y O U R A L L O C A T E D T I M E

Guests not arriving at their allocated time can lead to large crowds

filtering out onto the streets; not only is this a health hazard, it can

also result in the restaurant incurring a hefty fine. “If you’re in a large

group and you arrive 15 minutes early, your table won’t be ready,”

says Way. “You’re not legally allowed to wait inside, so you have

to crowd onto the street and it just becomes a bit of a jigsaw.”

S T A Y S E A T E D Rules are now in place to limit the amount of “mingling” within and

between large groups. This requires guests to remain seated, with little

to-ing and fro-ing between tables. “We are in a very communal area,”

says Judith Hurley, general manager at Gerard’s Bistro in Brisbane.

“When people used to walk past the restaurant, they would see

someone they knew and pop in to say hello. They can’t do that now.”

O P T F O R T H E S E T M E N U

Many restaurants, like Gerard’s Bistro, are exclusively offering a set

menu, no matter the size of the dining party. For restaurants that are

still offering à la carte, opting for a group set menu makes life a lot

easier, for both diners and the restaurant. “The set menu is the way to

go,” says Della Noce. “It makes the customer happy because things

come out on time, and kitchen-wise they can prep and plan for it.”

R E S P E C T T H E P R O C E D U R E S To ensure restaurants stay open, it’s imperative diners abide by the

venue’s regulations. This means sanitising, signing in and expecting

to have your temperature checked. “There’s an onus on the guest

to understand that we’re not putting in these things to make people’s

lives harder,” says Way. “We want everyone to come in and have

a great time. But it’s about staying safe and working with the venue

to make sure we all do the right thing.” ●

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 73

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For those who are coeliac or gluten intolerant, baking can seem more of a hassle than it’s worth, with ‘funny’ ingredients and complicated cooking methods. But with our collection of triple tested recipes, including both the staples of pastry cooking and new revamped classics, we’ll have you rushing back to your oven and mixing bowl.

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N O V E M B E R

FOOD

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Prawntoasts

Soirée snacks inspiredby the bold flavours of

Southeast Asia, cocktailhour at Gimlet, and RosaCienfuegos’ taco party.

Flavour town

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Photography ALICIA TAYLOR Styling OLIVIA BLACKMORE

Food preparation CHARLOTTE BINNS-McDONALD

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Pork andsugarcane

skewers

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Prawn toasts

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Lemongrassand tamarind

iced tea

Turn up the cheer – and the heat – at your next summer soiréewith this colourful collection of party bites, inspired by the

vibrant flavours of Southeast Asia.

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Beef tartare withwonton crisps

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Frozen Thaibasil and makrut

lime Mojito

Pork and sugarcane skewersSERVES 6 AS A SNACK // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 16 MINS

The perfect one-handed bite made even more flavourful with a punchy, nutty dipping sauce. Pictured p78

Beef tartare with wonton crispsSERVES 6 AS A STARTER // PREP TIME 40 MINS // COOK 20 MINS

A fun twist on beef tartare. Pictured p79

1 tbsp white rice18 wonton wrappers

Vegetable oil, for deep-frying300 gm beef fillet, trimmed of all sinew,

very finely diced4 qukes (baby cucumbers), finely diced1 red shallot, finely chopped1 tbsp coarsely chopped Vietnamese

mint leaves2 tbsp coarsely chopped shiso leaves,

plus extra small leaves to serveNUOC CHAM

1 tbsp each caster sugar, white vinegar and fish sauce

½ small garlic clove, finely chopped1 birdseye chilli, finely chopped,

or to taste1 tsp lime juice, or to taste

1 Dry-roast rice in a small frying panover low heat, stirring occasionally, untildeep golden (10-15 minutes). Cool, thenfinely grind in a spice grinder or using a mortar and pestle; set aside.2 For nuoc cham, combine sugar and50ml boiling water in a bowl; stir todissolve. Stir in vinegar and fish sauce;stand to cool (10-15 minutes), then add garlic, chilli and lime juice.3 For wonton crisps, heat oil in a wok to180°C. Deep-fry wontons, in batches, untillight golden and crisp (20 seconds); drain.4 Combine beef, ½ tsp roasted rice, onethird of the nuoc cham, cucumber, shallotand herbs in a bowl. Check seasoningand adjust with more nuoc cham ifnecessary. To serve, spoon tartare ontowonton crisps and top with shiso leaves.

1 stalk of fresh sugarcane (see note)1 bunch coriander, washed4 cloves garlic, roughly chopped1 stalk lemongrass4 makrut lime leaves, finely chopped

500 gm minced pork1 eggwhite1 tbsp fish sauce

11/2 tsp cornflour2 tbsp vegetable oil

Baby cos lettuce leaves, Vietnamesemint and Thai basil leaves, to servePEANUT DIPPING SAUCE

50 ml (2½ tbsp) fish sauce30 ml (1½ tbsp) lime juice25 gm caster sugar

2 tsp finely chopped ginger2 tbsp roasted peanuts, finely chopped

PICKLED CARROT2 carrots, finely shredded3 tsp caster sugar

11/2 tbsp rice vinegar

1 Using a sharp knife or cleaver splitsugarcane into 12 thin 10cm batons;soak in a bowl of water (15 minutes).2 Roughly chop 1/3 cup coriander rootsand stems; reserve leaves for serving.Process chopped coriander, garlic,lemongrass and lime leaves in a foodprocessor until finely chopped. Addpork, eggwhite, fish sauce and cornflour, season with salt and white pepper,and process until smooth and mixtureholds together. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate until needed.3 For peanut dipping sauce, combinefish sauce, lime juice, sugar and ginger in a small bowl; stir until sugar isdissolved, then stir in peanuts.4 For pickled carrot, combine carrot,sugar, vinegar and ½ tsp salt in a bowl;toss to combine and set aside to pickle.5 Shape ¼ cupfuls of pork mixture ina sausage shape around half of eachskewer. Heat oil in a large frying panover medium heat. Cook pork skewers,turning, until golden and cooked through(8 minutes). Serve with lettuce, pickledcarrot, herbs and peanut dipping sauce.Note Fresh and frozen sugarcane isavailable from Asian supermarkets,or ask your grocer to order for you.If unavailable, substitute lemongrass stems or bamboo skewers.

Roast five-spice chicken baosSERVES 6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 45 MINS

For leftovers, shred remaining chicken meat from bones and use for banh mi, fried rice or noodle salads. Pictured p82

Prawn toastsSERVES 10 AS A SNACK // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 15 MINS

Whole prawns take this crowd-pleasing snack to the next level. Pictured p78

1.5 kg medium uncooked prawns1 spring onion, thinly sliced2 garlic cloves, finely chopped1 tbsp finely chopped coriander1 tbsp finely chopped ginger1 eggwhite1 tsp each soy sauce, sesame oil

and cornflour10 thick slices of day-old white bread

Black and white sesame seeds,for sprinklingVegetable oil, for deep fryingVINEGAR AND CHILLI DIPPING SAUCE

80 ml (1/3 cup) Chinkiang (black) vinegar 60 ml (¼ cup) light soy sauce

1 long red chilli, finely chopped1 tbsp finely grated ginger1 tbsp finely chopped coriander2 tsp sesame oil1 tsp caster sugar

1 Peel and devein 12 of the prawns,leaving tails intact. Carefully slice in halfhorizontally then set aside. Peel anddevein remaining prawns and processwith spring onion, garlic, coriander,ginger, eggwhite, soy sauce, sesameoil and cornflour in a food processoruntil a smooth paste; season salt andwhite pepper. Transfer to a bowl andrefrigerate until well chilled (2 hours).

2 For vinegar and chilli dipping sauce, place ingredients in a bowl, stir to combine and set aside.3 Spread prawn mixture onto bread,cut off crusts and cut each piece in halfdiagonally. Scatter with sesame seeds andgently press to adhere to prawn mixture.4 Heat 4cm oil in a large, deep fryingpan over medium heat. Fry toasts inbatches, turning occasionally, untilgolden and crisp (3-4 minutes; be careful,hot oil will spit), then drain. Fry reservedprawns, turning, until golden and cooked(2 minutes). Serve hot with dipping sauce.

1 x 1.2kg chicken, butterflied1 tsp five-spice powder1 tbsp sea salt flakes

12 bao buns, warmed, to serveGREEN CHILLI SAUCE

1 cup firmly packed coriander leaves1/3 cup coriander stems1 long green chilli, trimmed, chopped3 tsp lime juice2 tbsp peanut oil

PEACH SALAD500 gm yellow peaches, halved, stones

removed, thinly sliced1 Lebanese cucumber, sliced

½ cup (loosely packed) coriander and mint1 tbsp fish sauce1 tbsp lemon juice2 tsp caster sugar1 long red chilli, finely chopped1 garlic clove, finely chopped

1 Preheat oven to 200°C. Pat chickendry with paper towel then sprinkle withfive spice and salt, rubbing in well. Placechicken on an oven tray and roast untilbrowned and tender (45 minutes). Set aside in a warm place to rest.

2 Meanwhile, for green chilli sauce,process all ingredients in a small foodprocessor until smooth; season to taste.3 For peach salad, combine peach,cucumber and herbs in a bowl. Whiskfish sauce, lemon juice and sugar ina separate small bowl to combine,then stir in chilli and garlic. Drizzle oversalad, then toss gently to combine.4 Quarter chicken then transfer toa serving platter. Serve with green chillisauce, peach salad and bao buns. ➤

This page Solid brass chopsticks with restfrom Studio Visser. All other props stylist’s own.PREVIOUS PAGES Tumbler (holding iced tea)from Riedel. Pink bowl (holding skewers) fromBatch Ceramics. All other props stylist’s own.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 81

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Roast five-spicechicken baos

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Crab, coconutand pomelobetel leaves

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 83

Lemongrass and tamarind iced teaSERVES6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 5 MINS (PLUS CHILLING, INFUSING)

If mocktails aren’t your thing, add a splash of vodka or gin to each glass. Pictured p78

Crab, coconut andpomelo betel leavesSERVES 6 // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 3 MINS

Crab and pomelo are a great match inthese zingy one-bite wonders. If pomelois out of season, substitute pineapple. Pictured p83

Peanut oil, for frying6 red shallots, thinly sliced

500 gm picked crab meat1 small pomelo, segmented,

coarsely torn½ cup shredded coconut, toasted¼ cup each mint and Thai basil,

finely chopped4 makrut lime leaves, finely shredded

30 betel leaves (see note)Finger lime pearls, to serveCHILLI DRESSING

1 small red chilli, coarsely chopped1 tsp chopped ginger

40 gm light palm sugar, or to taste2 tbsp each lime juice and fish sauce,

or to taste

1 Preheat peanut oil in a wok to180°C. Add shallot, in batches, andstir until golden (2-3 minutes); drain.2 For chilli dressing, pound chilliand ginger using a mortar and pestle to a fine paste. Add palm sugar,pound to break up, then add limejuice and fish sauce and stir until palm sugar dissolves.3 Combine remaining ingredients(except betel leaves) in a bowl,add dressing and toss to combine.Place tablespoons of mixture onbetel leaves, top with fried shallots and finger lime pearls to serve.Note Betel leaves are available from Asian grocers.

5 jasmine tea bags3 stalks lemongrass, white-part finely

chopped, stalks reserved200 gm palm sugar, chopped

10 gm ginger, chopped80 ml (1/3 cup) tamarind pulp

Lemon slices, mint leaves, crushed ice and chilled soda water to serve

1 Pour 1.5 litres (6 cups) boiling waterinto a large heatproof bowl. Add teabags and set aside to infuse (10 minutes). Remove bags and transfer tea to the fridge to chill (3 hours).

2 Combine chopped lemongrass, palmsugar, ginger and 250ml (1 cup) waterin small saucepan over medium heat.Stir to dissolve sugar then simmer untilinfused (1 minute). Set aside to cool then refrigerate until chilled.3 Strain syrup then combine in a largejug with tea, tamarind, lemon slices andmint. Fill serving glasses with ice, thentop with tea and a splash of soda water.Serve with a lemongrass-stalk stirrer.

Frozen Thai basil and makrut lime MojitoSERVES 6 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 5 MINS (PLUS CHILLING)

If Thai basil is unavailable, substitute sweet basil or a mix of basil and mint. Pictured p85

220 gm (1 cup) caster sugar10 makrut lime leaves, torn

11/2 cups firmly packed Thai basil leaves, plus extra to serve

125 ml (1/2 cup) lime juice160 ml (2/3 cup) white rum

6 cups crushed ice

1 Combine sugar, lime leaves and 250ml(1 cup) water in a small saucepan overmedium heat. Stir until sugar is dissolvedthen simmer 1 minute. Set aside to coolthen place in the fridge to chill (2 hours). Strain syrup once cool.2 Blend syrup and basil in a blenderuntil very smooth. Add juice and rum andblend until combined. Divide crushed icebetween 6 serving glasses, top with basilmixture and stir to combine. Garnish with extra Thai basil or mint leaves.

Tropical fruit saladwith coconut jellyand ginger syrupSERVES 8 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 5 MINS (PLUS CHILLING)

For the perfect showstopper, set the jellyin a large serving dish instead and spoondiced fruit on top. You’ll need to reduce gelatine to 31/2 leaves in this case. Pictured p86

41/2 titanium-strength gelatine leaves1 litre coconut cream

220 gm (1 cup) caster sugar2 limes, zested and juiced1 tbsp finely grated ginger1 tbsp finely shredded mint leaves2 star fruit, sliced1 large mango, cut into wedges

1/2 papaya, cut into wedges1 small pineapple, sliced1 young coconut, flesh removed

1 To make jelly, soak gelatine leaves ina large bowl of cold water until softened(5 minutes). Combine half the coconutcream and half the sugar in a saucepanover low heat, stirring to dissolve thesugar. Bring to a simmer then add thesqueezed gelatine and mix well. Stir inhalf the zest and juice and remainingcoconut cream, then pour into a 1-litrecapacity shallow tray and transfer to the fridge until set (4 hours).2 Meanwhile, to make syrup, combineremaining sugar, 125ml (1/2 cup) waterand ginger in a small saucepan overmedium heat, stirring to dissolve sugar.Remove from heat and add remaininglime zest and juice. Transfer to the fridge to chill (30 minutes), then stir in mint.3 Arrange fruit and coconut in servingbowls. Inverting jelly onto a board; cutinto 2cm pieces and scatter over fruit. Drizzle over ginger syrup to serve.

Vietnamese coffee ice-creams with salted cashew crumbSERVES 10 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 10 MINS (PLUS FREEZING)

This is a fresh take on the sweet and strong coffee served in Vietnam. Pictured p87

This is a fresh take on the sweet andstrong coffee served in Vietnam.

100 gm freshly ground coffee2 cinnamon quills, coarsely broken

395 gm can condensed milk125 ml (1/2 cup) pure cream150 gm unsalted cashews, finely chopped

1 tsp sea salt flakes1 tsp ground cinnamon

1 Combine coffee, cinnamon quills and600ml boiling water in a coffee plunger;stir to combine, cover and set aside toinfuse (10 minutes). Push plunger downand pour coffee into a large bowl. Addcondensed milk and cream; mix well, thencover and refrigerate until chilled. (2 hours).

2 Churn mixture in an ice-cream machineaccording to manufacturer’s instructions,then divide between 10 lightly oiled 80ml(1/3 cup) capacity silicone popsicle moulds.Insert popsicle stick, place on a tray andfreeze until firm (4 hours or overnight).3 Meanwhile, preheat oven to 180°C.Place cashews on an oven tray and roastuntil golden (10 minutes). Sprinkle oversalt and ground cinnamon and toss to combine. Set aside to cool.4 Remove popsicles from moulds andsprinkle with cashew crumb to serve. ●

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 85

For the perfectshowstopper, set the jelly

in a large serving dishinstead and spoon the

diced fruit on top.

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Tropical fruitsalad with coconut

jelly and ginger syrup

p85

Vietnamese coffeeice-creams with

salted cashew crumb

LET ’S DRINK TO THAT

Fun and sophistication is the order at Gimlet, AndrewMcConnell’s ode to a bygone era of cocktail party elegance, serving inspired plates with cocktails to match.

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Rock oysterswith seaweedbutter on rye

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ChampagneGimlet

Photography WILLIAM MEPPEM

Styling LYNSEY FRYERS

p92

Spring cruditéswith house-made

curd

Words MICHAEL HARDEN

Recipes ANDREW McCONNELL

At its heart, Gimlet is a cocktail bar, “but it alsopresented us with the chance to create somethinga little more – to create food and cocktails thatenhance the beautiful room rather than trying

to compete with it,” says Andrew McConnell.Anyone who had the luck to experience McConnell’s

newest Melbourne CBD restaurant, Gimlet at CavendishHouse, in the brief hiatus between lockdowns would agreewholeheartedly about the beauty of the room. Large, elegant,exciting, it’s designed with a party in mind, most obviouslybecause of the bar that’s the central feature.

In the spirit of what will be, McConnell has createda menu of party food with matching cocktails for thismonth’s issue. The objective is a Gimlet-style celebration– as sophisticated as it is fun.

“The sweet spot for matching food with cocktails isrestraint,” he says. “You don’t want too many flavours inyour cocktails – anchor them with two or three – and youdon’t want them too sweet. I like a more apéritif-style wherethe drinks lean towards the savoury and the salty.”

Gimlet’s dishes embrace infusions, pickles, preservesand vinegars, similar to the way a bartender would createa cocktail. Pickled blackberries accompany the saltwaterduck salad, which is tossed in a dressing that includes thepickling vinegar in the mix. There are preserved cherrytomatoes in the seafood salad and pickled onions in thetuna and lemon mayonnaise sandwiches.

Accompanying these are thrillingly savoury cocktails,such as the Bambino, a suave number including dry apera,dry vermouth, elderflower liqueur and caperberry brine.

“I like flavours that make you stop and think; that getyour attention without screaming ‘look at me!’,” saysMcConnell. “I like understated food and cocktails like that,especially at a party when the main point is people gettingtogether. I think we get that point now more than ever.” Gimlet at Cavendish House, 33 Russell St, Melbourne, (03) 9277 9777, gimlet.melbourne

Above: Andrew McConnell and Gimlet’s dining room.

Opposite Elite cocktail shaker and Cocktail mixing glassjug, both from Tomkin; Gin Journeys Aras hi ball (left),Mixology coupe (centre) and Irish Dogs tumbler (right),all from Waterford. PREVIOUS PAGES Luna swivel chair andJonathan side table, both from Coco Republic; MixologyCircon rum coupe (back left) from Waterford; Cabbageplate from Pigott’s Store. All other props stylist’s own. PH

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G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R90

Champagne Gimlet SERVES 4 // PREP TIME 20 MINS

“This is our version of a Gimlet –the addition of Champagne makeseverything better!” Says McConnell. Pictured p88

Finely grated zest of 1 lime100 gm caster sugar100 ml verjuice120 ml gin120 ml brut Champagne

1 Chill 4 cocktail glasses.2 To make lime cordial, combine limezest and sugar in a bowl; mix well andset aside to infuse (15 minutes). Addverjuice and stir until sugar dissolves. Strain through a fine sieve.3 Combine gin with 120ml lime cordialin a large glass jug and fill with ice. Stiruntil combined (30 seconds), then divideamong chilled cocktail glasses througha cocktail strainer. Top each glass with 30ml Champagne and serve. ➤

Party SangriaSERVES 8-10 // PREP TIME 30 MINS

“This is our go-to cocktail for a large party,” says Andrew McConnell.

1¾ tsp dried chamomile flowers250 gm strawberries, hulled 200 gm caster sugar100 ml vodka750 ml white wine, such as riesling

Juice of 2 lemons, plus 1 lemonsliced, to serve

Tarragon sprigs and soda water, to serve

1 To make strawberry cordial, heat500ml (2 cups) water in a saucepanover medium heat until almost boiling.Pour over dried chamomile flowers ina bowl or teapot and set aside to infuse(10 minutes), then strain and discardflowers. In a blender or food processor,blend 3 strawberries with chamomileinfusion until smooth. Strain througha sieve into a bowl, then add sugar and stir until dissolved.2 Combine vodka, wine, lemon juiceand strawberry cordial in a 2-litre servingjug. Thinly slice remaining strawberriesthen add to jug with lemon slices andtarragon sprigs. Add ice and stir gently.Serve with a splash of soda water and a sprig of tarragon.

Peaches and CampariSERVES 6 // PREP TIME 5 MINS // COOK 35 MINS (PLUS INFUSING)

“Here we have a seasonal variation ona Campari and soda,” says McConnell.Start a day ahead to infuse the Campari.

4 ripe yellow peaches, halved, destoned

1 bunch lemon thyme700 ml Campari

Soda water and orange slices, to serve

1 Preheat oven to 180°C. Place peachhalves on a large oven tray cut sidesup and roast until starting to caramelise(35 minutes). Set aside to cool slightly.2 Reserve 6 small lemon thyme sprigsto serve. Combine remaining thyme,Campari and roasted peaches in a jug.Cover and set aside at room temperatureto infuse (8 hours or overnight). Strainthrough a fine sieve into a large bowl and reserve peaches (see note).3 Meanwhile, place 6 highball or rocksglasses in fridge to chill. When ready toserve, pour 60ml peach-infused Campariinto each glass and fill with ice. Top withsoda, stir gently, and garnish with orangeslices and reserved lemon thyme sprigs.Note Reserved peaches can be slicedand added to the cocktail, or enjoyedas a dessert with ice-cream or sorbet.

Peaches andCampari

PartySangria

Selection of baby spring vegetables,such as heirloom baby carrots,radishes, turnips, baby cucumbers,finger fennel and asparagus, washed with tops and tails intactCrushed ice, to serveHOUSEMADE CURD

½ rennet tablet (consult packet as dosages vary; see note)

1 litre (4 cups) full-creamunhomogenised milk

750 ml (3 cups) pouring cream(35% milk fat)

160 gm plain yoghurt with active cultures

1 For curd, combine rennet with 70mlcold water in a sterile 3-litre non-reactivelidded container (see note). Combinemilk, cream and yoghurt in a saucepan,and gently stir over low heat until 35°Con a kitchen thermometer. Pour milkmixture into rennet mixture, stir for3 minutes, then cover with lid and placein a sink half-full of warm water at 35°Cto incubate. Add hot water as necessary to maintain the temperature at 35°C.2 After 1 hour, check the curd hasformed and set by pressing the backof your finger on the surface; it shouldnot break, and the curd should comeaway from the side of the container.

Spring crudités with house-made curdSERVES 4-6 AS AN APPETISER // PREP TIME 45 MINS // COOK 5 MINS (PLUS SETTING)

“Vegetables for crudités can vary according to the season and what is best onthe day,” says McConnell. For this recipe, you will need a kitchen thermometer and some cheesecloth. Start a day ahead to make the curd. Pictured p89

Cut curd into 5cm cubes inside thecontainer and set aside for 20 minutes.Using a slotted spoon, transfer curd toa colander lined with cheesecloth setover a large bowl. Fold cheeseclothover curds, put a plate on top to lightlypress, and refrigerate to set (8 hoursor overnight). Transfer curd, reservingwhey separately (see note), to a bowland whisk until smooth. If it’s too thick(it should be the texture of thick yoghurt),whisk in a little reserved whey. Seasonto taste with salt and refrigerate untilneeded. Curd will keep for 3 days.3 Cut vegetables into halves or quarters and arrange over crushed ice in aserving bowl. Spoon fresh curd into asmaller bowl and serve with crudités.Note Rennet tablets are available fromcheesemaking suppliers. When making the curd, it’s important that all theequipment and containers are sterilised by placing them in boiling water for30 seconds and left to dry on a dishdrainer. Leftover whey can be used asa starter for making cheese and yoghurt, or in smoothies and dressings.Cocktail suggestion Peaches and Campari (see recipe p91). ➤

10 gm kombu½ loaf rugbrød (Danish dark rye bread,

see note), 1-2 days old250 ml (1 cup) vegetable oil125 gm unsalted softened butter30 gm (1 tbsp) gohandesuyo (see note)

2 tbsp finely chopped chives2 dozen freshly shucked oysters

Lemon wedges, to serve

1 Preheat oven to 150°C. Place kombuon a baking tray, and bake until crisp(15 minutes). Set aside to cool, thengrind to a fine powder in a spice grinder.2 Cut bread into 6 x 3mm-thick slices,then halve to make triangles. Heat oil ina large frying pan over medium heat andshallow-fry bread in batches, turning once,until crisp (1½ minutes each side); drain.3 To make seaweed butter, combinebutter, gohandesuyo, kombu powder and½ tsp sea salt flakes in a bowl; mix well.4 Spread seaweed butter onto toasts.Sprinkle with chives and cracked blackpepper to taste, and serve with freshlyshucked oysters and lemon wedges.Note Rugbrød is a Danish rye breadavailable from select bakeries. Substitute dark rye sourdough if unavailable.Gohandesuyo is a seasoned seaweedpaste available from Japanese grocery stores. We used Momoya brand.Cocktail suggestion Champagne Gimlet (see recipe p91).

Rock oysters withseaweed butter on ryeSERVES 6 AS AN APPETISER // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 15 MINS

“Traditionally served with cockles,the iodine and umami in the seaweedworks really well with sweet oysters,” says McConnell. Pictured p88

This page Irish Dogs Madrastumbler from Waterford Crystal.All other props stylist’s own.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R92

2 x 200gm tuna steaks, 2cm thick100 ml tsuyu (see note) or light soy sauce50 gm samphire spears (see note)

or watercress1 egg1 egg yolk

40 ml milk1 tbsp Dijon mustard

50 gm (⅓ cup) plain flour50 gm panko breadcrumbs

100 ml canola oil4 x 1cm-thick slices white bread, crusts

removed50 gm softened salted cultured butter

PICKLED ONIONS250 gm small red pickling onions, thinly

sliced325 ml (1¾ cups) malt vinegar125 gm demerara sugar

3 cloves1 fresh bay leaf

½ tsp yellow mustard seedsLEMON MAYONNAISE

2 egg yolks1 tbsp Dijon mustard

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon250 ml (1 cup) grapeseed oil

Tuna sandwichSERVES 4 AS A SNACK // PREP TIME 40 MINS // COOK 5 MINS (PLUS PICKLING, MARINATING)

“A play on a Japanese Katsu sando, we use sashimi-grade tuna loin cooked rare for a very decadent fish sandwich,” says McConnell.

1 For pickled onions, place onion ina bowl and sprinkle with 1 tsp fine salt.Cover and refrigerate (1 hour). Rinseunder cool water, drain well and placein a 250ml jar. Meanwhile, combineremaining pickling ingredients with125ml (½ cup) water in a saucepanover medium heat, stirring to dissolvesugar. Bring to the boil then pour mixture over onion, seal jar and cool to roomtemperature. Pickled onion can bestored in the fridge for 2 weeks.2 Trim tuna steaks to the same sizeand shape as the bread. Place tuna ina shallow dish, add tsuyu and marinate,turning occasionally, in the fridge (1 hour).3 For lemon mayonnaise, whisk eggyolks, mustard and lemon juice witha pinch of salt in a medium bowl. Slowlydrizzle in oil, whisking constantly, untilmixture begins to thicken. Add lemon rind and season with salt to taste.4 Blanch samphire in a saucepan ofboiling salted water (20 seconds). Refreshin iced water and drain well. Add 1 tspfinely chopped samphire to lemonmayonnaise and mix to combine.

5 Whisk egg, egg yolk, milk and mustardin a bowl. Place flour and breadcrumbs inseparate bowls. Drain tuna and pat drywith paper towel. Dust tuna in flour,shaking off excess, dip into egg mixture,and then press evenly into breadcrumbs to coat. Place tuna on a tray andrefrigerate until ready to cook.6 Heat oil in a deep heavy-based fryingpan over medium heat. Fry tuna untilcrisp and golden (30-40 seconds), thenturn and cook other side until golden and tuna is cooked medium-rare(30-40 seconds). Drain on paper towel and sprinkle with sea salt flakes.7 Butter bread. Top 2 slices with a tunasteak, a spoonful of lemon mayonnaise, some pickled onion and samphire.Sandwich with remaining bread,pressing lightly, then halve and serve.Note Tsuyu is a Japanese seasoningsauce available from Asian grocers.Cocktail suggestion Party Sangria (see recipe p91). ➤

93G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

p96

Saltwater duckwith pickledblackberries

Bambino

Classic seafood salad

4 uncooked king prawns12 mussels, scrubbed2 tsp chardonnay vinegar

12 large clams or pipies, scrubbed 12 small yellow witlof leaves8 sprigs samphire (see note)8 sprigs karkalla (see note)8 sprigs sea blite (see note)

12 sprigs ice plant (see note)MARINATED VEGETABLES

½ small fennel bulb, sliced into thinwedges

1 celery stalk, cut into 5cm-long batons20 cherry tomatoes

150 ml olive oil6 thyme sprigs

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon TOMATO DRESSING

10 cherry tomatoes from the marinatedvegetables

100 ml oil from the marinated vegetables 15 ml chardonnay vinegar2 tsp coarsely chopped capers1 tsp finely chopped sea blite (see note)1 small green chilli, finely chopped

1 For marinated vegetables, blanchfennel and celery in a large saucepan ofboiling water until al dente (30 seconds).Remove with a slotted spoon and drainon paper towel. Score a small cross inthe stem ends of tomatoes and blanchin the same saucepan (10 seconds).Transfer tomatoes to a bowl of icedwater, drain well, peel and discard skins.Combine oil, thyme, juice and rind ina small saucepan over low heat. Seasonto taste and heat gently until warm.Add fennel, celery and tomatoes,and set aside at room temperature.2 Bring a saucepan of salted waterto the boil and cook prawns until pinkand just tender (4 minutes). Immediatelytransfer to a bowl of iced water to coolthen drain. Peel prawns, leaving headsand tails intact, devein and refigerate until needed.3 Heat 2 tbs water in a small saucepanover medium-high heat. Add mussels,cover and cook until open (3 minutes).Remove mussels from shells (discardshells) and debeard. Add vinegar tomussel juices in the pan, return mussels to pan, stir and transfer to a bowl.4 In the same pan, heat another 2 tbswater over medium-high heat. Add clams,cover and cook until open (3-4 minutes).Transfer to a bowl, then remove meatfrom shells, reserving shells separately,and return meat to cooking liquid.Clean shells and set aside to serve.

5 For tomato dressing, coarselychop marinated cherry tomatoes thencombine in a large bowl with remaining ingredients and 50ml clam juices.Season to taste. Add witlof, samphire,karkalla, sea blite, and ice plant; toss gently to combine.6 Drain mussels and clams and returnclams to cleaned shells. Divide saladamong plates then top with marinatedvegetables and seafood. Drizzle with extra tomato dressing and serve.Note Samphire, karkalla, sea blite and ice plant are available from native-ingredient suppliers or online at farmhousedirect.com.au

BambinoSERVES 4 // PREP TIME 5 MINS

“This cocktail is slightly salty butso easy-going,” says McConnell.

80 ml dry apera (manzanilla or fino),or pale dry apera

40 ml elderflower liqueur (see note)20 ml dry vermouth (see note)20 ml brine from preserved caperberries

Tonic water or soda water, to serve Caperberries and lemon slices,

to serve

1 Chill 4 rocks or highball glasses.2 Divide apera, liqueur, vermouth andbrine between glasses. Top generouslywith ice and fill with tonic or soda water.Stir gently and serve, garnished with caperberries and lemon slices. ➤

Classic seafood saladSERVES 4 AS A STARTER // PREP TIME 40 MINS // COOK 20 MINS

“A vibrant salad makes a great starter any time of the year, and with the best seafoodavailable, it can be something very special,” says McConnell. “This salad is balancedwith the fresh salinity of wild coastal plants, the sweetness from preserved cherrytomatoes and the richness from vegetables lightly cooked and marinated in olive oil.”

This page Cabbage bowl fromPiggot’s Store. Opposite IrishDogs tumbler (top left) andShort Stories mixed tumbler(bottom right), both fromWaterford Crystal. All other props stylist’s own.

1 medium radicchio (200gm) washed,leaves torn

2 baby Chioggia beetroot, thinly sliced on a mandolin (see note)PICKLED BLACKBERRIES

125 gm blackberries250 gm muscovado sugar300 ml malt vinegar

½ tsp yellow mustard seeds½ tsp black peppercorns

SALTWATER DUCK400 gm salt

2 star aniseFinely grated zest of 1 orange and 1 lemon

4 x duck Marylands (1kg total)MARINATED BEETROOT

12 baby red beetroot, scrubbed, trimmed100 ml verjuice200 ml grapeseed oil, plus 1 tbsp extra

WALNUT SAUCE150 ml soy milk

75 gm walnuts, toasted25 ml walnut oil

2 tsp sherry vinegar

1 For pickled blackberries, placeblackberries in a sterilised 500ml(2 cups) preserving jar. Combine sugarand 250ml (1 cup) water in a saucepanover low heat, stirring to dissolve sugar.Stir in remaining ingredients and setaside to cool. Pour pickling liquid overblackberries and seal jar. Set aside to pickle (8 hours or overnight).2 For saltwater duck, combine saltwith 1 litre (4 cups) water in a saucepanover low heat; stir to dissolve. Add staranise and zests, transfer to a large,shallow dish and refrigerate to chill(1 hour). Add duck, then cover andreturn to fridge to brine (24 hours).3 For marinated beetroot, boil wholebeetroots in a medium saucepan untiljust tender (20 minutes). When cool

enough to handle, peel beetroots andcut into wedges. Whisk verjuice and oilwith 100ml blackberry pickling liquid ina large bowl, add beetroot and set asideat room temperature to marinate (2 hours).4 Remove duck from brine and rinse incold water. Place duck in a large saucepan,cover with water and bring to a simmerover low heat. Cover with a lid and poachgently, until duck is very tender (2 hours).Set aside to cool. Carefully remove duckfrom pan, then gently remove and discard leg bones, keeping the meat and skin intact. Refrigerate until needed.5 For walnut sauce, pulse ingredientsin a blender until smooth. Season to taste.6 Heat extra oil in a heavy-based fryingpan over medium heat. Add duck, skinside down and fry until skin is crisp andduck is warmed through (10 minutes).Carefully break up duck into large pieces.7 Drain beetroots, reserving marinade.Place radicchio, sliced beetroot and2 tbs reserved marinade in a bowl, tossgently to combine. Spread a spoonfulof walnut sauce over serving plates andtop with duck. Scatter over marinatedbeetroot, radicchio mixture and pickled blackberries to serve.Note Chioggia beetroot, also knownas candy stripe beetroot, is available from select greengrocers.Cocktail suggestion Rhubarb and Tonic.

Saltwater duck with pickled blackberriesSERVES 4 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 2½ HOURS (PLUS PICKLING, BRINING, MARINATING)

“Brining the duck legs gives a boost in flavour, texture and moisture,” says McConnell. Start this recipe a day ahead. Pictured p94

Whiskey and DrySERVES 4 // PREP TIME 45 MINS // COOK 2 MINS

“We use genmaicha green tea for itssavoury rice flavour,” says McConnell,“but use any green tea of your choice.”

200 ml Irish whiskey5 gm green tea leaves

Ginger ale and long lemon twists, to serve

1 Chill 4 highball glasses. Toast tealeaves in a dry frying pan over medium heat, stirring, until fragrant and justbeginning to brown (2 minutes). Transferto a jug, then add whiskey and set asideto macerate (30 minutes). Strain through a fine seive into a small jug.2 Pour 50ml green-tea whiskeyinto chilled glasses, fill with ice,top with ginger ale and serve with lemon twists.

Rhubarb and TonicSERVES 6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 15 MINS (PLUS INFUSING)

“This is an elegant and refreshingalcohol-free cocktail,” says McConnell,“but add a splash of vodka or gin ifyou prefer.” Start a day ahead to infuse.

150 gm caster sugar50 ml verjuice15 gm (3cm piece) ginger, thinly sliced

1.5 gm citric acid300 gm rhubarb stalks, chopped Tonic water and thinly sliced lemon

peel, to serve

1 Combine sugar, verjuice, ginger, citricacid and 400ml water in a saucepanover medium heat. Stir to dissolve sugar,then add rhubarb and bring to the boil.Reduce heat to low and simmer untilrhubarb is tender (10 minutes); set asideto cool. Cover and refrigerate to infuse(overnight). Strain through a fine sieveand adjust sugar and acid, if required.2 Chill 6 rocks or highball glasses. Add60ml rhubarb cordial to each glass, fillwith ice, top up with tonic or soda waterand serve garnished with lemon peel.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R96

220 gm (1 cup) caster sugar50 gm liquid glucose½ cup firmly packed basil leaves½ cup firmly packed red shiso leaves

400 gm (about 2) ripe white peaches,coarsely chopped, plus 1 extra, thinly sliced, to serve

60 ml (¼ cup) lemon juice Baby shiso, to serve

1 Place sugar, glucose and 150ml waterin a small saucepan over medium heatand bring to the boil. Reduce heat andsimmer for 1 minute, then remove fromheat and add basil and shiso. Set asideto cool, then refrigerate to chill (2 hours).2 Blend peaches in a blender with 60ml(¼ cup) water until smooth. Add sugarsyrup mixture and lemon juice, and pulseto combine. Strain through a fine sieve,then churn in an ice-cream machineaccording to manufacturer’s instructions.Serve scoops of sorbet with peach slices and baby shiso leaves.Cocktail suggestion Whiskey and Dry (see recipe opposite). ●

White peach, basil and shiso gelatoMAKES 1 LITRE // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 5 MINS (PLUS CHILLING, FREEZING)

“White peaches are one of the things we really get excited aboutin summer,” says McConnell, “Buy them a few days in advanceand leave to ripen at room temperature for maximum flavour.”

This page Duralex Manhattan highballfrom Tomkin. All other props stylist’s own.

Opposite Cocktail mixing glass jug fromTomkin. Mixology Rum Circon coupe and

Short Stories mixed tumblers, all fromWaterford Crystal.

Photography ALICIA TAYLOR

Styling DEBORAH KALOPERTAC

O

T I M E

p102

Tacos de carnitas(slow-cooked

pork tacos)

In her new book Comida Mexicana,chef ROSA CIENFUEGOS celebrates

the vibrant flavours of Mexico.

p104

Tacos de carneasada (grilled

steak tacos)

My name is Rosa Cienfuegos.I was born in the heartof “Chilangolandia” (theaffectionate slang term

for Mexico City), the largest andmost populous city in the WesternHemisphere. I lived in this chaotic,noisy, vibrant and colourful place withits warm people, ancestral traditionsand rich culture for 25 years. Althoughfrenetic, I learned to love the city and the craziness that went with it.

When I was young, I travelledthroughout Mexico visiting familyand friends, and immersing myself inour country’s vast history and uniquegastronomy. I learned about regionalfood and centuries-old dishes that arestill made using traditional cookingtechniques and equipment. Every houseI visited had a signature family recipethat was slightly different from the last.

Food is very important to Mexicans.It reconnects us to our past, our familyand our feelings; it touches emotionsthat are always in our hearts. It was thislove that led me to Australia to live withmy father 10 years after he left Mexico.The thought of living in anothercountry without the food I held so dearwas a bitter pill to swallow, so I startedto cook at home, playing with availableingredients and cooking equipmentin a bid to achieve authentic Mexicanflavours, and in 2018 I opened Sydney’sfirst tamaleria and Mexican deli.

In this book, I share the recipesthat are dear to my heart, those thatmy dad gave to me, the ones thatI have refined over months and years,and the most popular dishes frommy tamaleria. These recipes are truly Mexican and full of love.

TACOS DE SUADERO

Slow-cooked brisket tacosMAKES 20

“A tortilla is the thin, round corn base that holds any number of fillings. As soon asa filling is added to a tortilla it immediately becomes a taco,” says Rosa Cienfuegos.

150 ml vegetable oil or pork lard1 kg beef brisket, cut into

8-10cm chunks1 garlic glove, minced

150 ml freshly squeezed orange juiceTortillas, to serve (see recipe p102;make 4 x quantities for 40 tortillas)

1 onion, diced, to serve25 gm coriander leaves, finely chopped,

to serve2 Lebanese cucumbers, diced, to serve

Lime wedges, to serveSALSA TAQUERA

300 gm fresh or tinned tomatillos1/2 white onion, halved2 cloves garlic1 tomato

100 ml vegetable oil2 dried guajillo chillies (see note)

10 dried chillies de árbol (see note) or Thai chillies

1 Heat oil or lard in a flameproofcasserole dish over high heat. Addbrisket and sear until browned on allsides (10 minutes). Add garlic, orangejuice, 1 tsp salt and 500ml (2 cups) water and stir to combine. Reduce heat tomedium, then cover and cook, stirringfrequently until brisket is very tender(1½ hours). Allow brisket to cool slightly, then cut into bite-sized pieces.2 Meanwhile, make tortillas.3 To make salsa taquera, placetomatillos, 1/4 onion, garlic, tomato,1 tbsp oil and 500ml (2 cups) waterin a saucepan. Bring to the boil overhigh heat and cook for 3 minutes. Setaside to cool to room temperature.4 Heat 2 tbsp oil in a frying pan overlow heat. Add guajillo chillies and cookfor 3 minutes on both sides. Usinga slotted spoon, remove chillies andadd to saucepan. Repeat this step with chillies de árbol.5 Meanwhile, finely chop remaining1/4 onion. Transfer contents of the panto a large mortar or blender, add 10gmsalt and pound with a pestle or blendto a chunky salsa. Transfer to a serving bowl; stir through chopped onion.6 Divide brisket among 20 doubledtortillas and top with onion, coriander,cucumber and salsa taquera. Serve with lime wedges on the side.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R100

Food is very importantto Mexicans. It reconnectsus to our past, our family

and our feelings; it touchesemotions that are always

in our hearts.

TOTOPOS

Tortilla chipsMAKES ABOUT 500GM

“Outside of Mexico, totopos are known as good ol’ tortilla chips,” says Cienfuegos. “Yes, youcan buy them in large bags from the supermarket, but they are super easy to make at home and taste mucho, mucho better!” You will need a tortilla press for this recipe.

500 ml (2 cups) vegetable oil, for deep-fryingTORTILLAS

250 gm masa flour300 ml warm water

25 ml vegetable oil Oil spray, for cooking

1 To make tortillas, combinemasa flour, warm water,oil and a pinch of salt ina bowl to form a soft andnon-sticky dough. Lightlyspray a heavy-based fryingpan with oil spray and place over medium-high heat.

2 Place a square of plasticwrap over bottom half of atortilla press. To make 16cmtortillas, roll 50gm of thedough into a ball and placein the middle of the tortillapress. Cover with anothersquare of plastic wrap (thisstops the dough sticking tothe press), then close tortillapress and gently press toflatten the dough into a3mm-thick tortilla. Opentortilla press, remove plasticwrap and cook in a fryingpan until just beginning to

colour (2 minutes each side).Repeat with remaining dough,using oil spray as needed.3 Heat oil in a largeheavy-based saucepanto 180°C. Cut tortillas intoeight rough triangles then,working in batches, addtortilla triangles to the hotoil and fry until crisp andlightly golden (3 minutes).4 Remove tortillas usinga slotted spoon and drainon paper towel. Seasonwith salt to taste, and servewith guacamole or salsa.

TACOS DE CARNITAS

Slow-cooked pork tacosMAKES 6

“The original carnitas recipe comes from the state of Michoacán, but it’s also a popular tacofilling in Mexico City where locals eat tacos de carnitas for lunch,” says Cienfuegos. Pictured p98

250 gm pork ribs1 kg boneless pork

shoulder, cut into5cm chunks

250 gm pork belly, cutinto 5cm chunks

100 gm pork skin, cut into 1cm x 4cm strips

3 kg pork lard375 ml evaporated milk

1 orange, cut into 8 slices500 ml (2 cups) cola

1 white onion6 dried bay leaves

250 ml (1 cup) fizzyorange soft drink

1 tsp dried thyme1 tsp dried marjoram1 tbsp cloves1 tbsp whole peppercorns

3 garlic clovesTortillas, to serve(see recipe above)Pico de gallo, to serve(see recipe p104)

Lime wedges, to serve

1 Rub 3 tbsp salt into allpork pieces and set aside.Heat pork lard in a largeheavy-based saucepanto 120°C. Once lard is hot,slowly add evaporated milk, orange slices and cola.Reduce heat to medium,then add onion, five of thebay leaves, orange soft drinkand 1 litre (4 cups) water. Tieremaining bay leaf in a muslinbag with thyme and marjoram

and add to pan with cloves,peppercorns and garlic.Continue to cook, stirring,until infused (5 minutes).2 Add ribs and pork shoulder and cook for 15 minutes,then add pork belly. Cook,stirring frequently, untilmeat has a light goldencrust (20-30 minutes).Add pork skin and simmeruntil tender (30 minutes).3 Meanwhile, make tortillas and pico de gallo.4 Remove pork from panand set aside to cool slightly,then cut into small pieces.Divide carnitas among tortillasand top with pico de gallo.Serve with lime wedges. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R102

This extract from ComidaMexicana by Rosa

Cienfuegos (Smith StreetBooks; $45) has beenreproduced with minor

GT style edits.

“These taco recipes are authentic,

homely, ridiculouslytasty and perfect forsharing. Give thema go next time youhave friends and

family come to visit.”

1 kg skirt, flank or rump steak3 x 330ml bottles Mexican beer

12 spring onions, cut in halfLime wedges, to serveTortillas (see recipe p102), to serveGUACAMOLE

5 ripe avocados3 green chillies, such as jalapeño or

serrano, finely chopped100 gm coriander leaves, finely chopped

Juice of 3 limes1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

PICO DE GALLO1/2 white onion, diced4 green chillies, such as jalapeño or

serrano, finely chopped200 gm coriander leaves, finely chopped

Juice of 2 limes3 firm tomatoes, cut into 3cm chunks

SALSA DE HABANERO Y PIÑAJuice of 3 limes

1 red onion, thinly sliced150 gm peeled and cored pineapple,

sliced into thin strips5 red, orange, yellow or green

habanero chillies, thinly sliced lengthways

Pinch dried oregano (optional)

1 Place steak in a large bowl, pour overbeer and season with 2 tbsp salt and1 tsp freshly cracked black pepper. Stirto combine, then cover and set asidein the fridge to marinate overnight.2 The next day, make guacamole, picode gallo and salsa de habanero y piña.For guacamole, gently mash avocadoin a bowl, season with salt then stir through remaining ingredients.3 For pico de gallo, place onion, chilliand coriander in a bowl. Add lime juiceand 1 tsp salt and gently stir for 3 minutes.Add tomato, stir to combine and set aside.4 For salsa de habanero y piña, placelime juice, onion and a pinch of salt ina bowl. Heat a heavy-based frying panover medium-high heat. Add pineappleand cook until slightly charred (3 minuteseach side). Remove from heat and setaside to cool. Add charred pineapple,chilli and oregano (if using) to onionmixture and stir to combine; set aside.

5 Preheat a barbecue grill and flat plateto high. Cook spring onions on flat plateuntil slightly charred (10 minutes). Setaside. Cook steak on grill to medium-rare(3-4 minutes each side). Rest for 5 minutes then chop into bite-sized pieces.6 Meanwhile, make tortillas.7 Pile steak into the tortillas and topwith guacamole, pico de gallo and salsade habanero y piña. Squeeze a limewedge over spring onions and seasonwith salt. Serve alongside tacos with lime wedges and cold beer. ●

TACOS DE CARNE ASADA

Grilled steak tacosMAKES 12

“Carne asada tacos are the most popular tacos in northern Mexico which, perhaps notcoincidentally, is also where most of the country’s meat is produced,” says Cienfuegos.“Even though I’m from Mexico City, we always have these tacos for Sunday lunch with family and friends.” You will need to start this recipe a day ahead. Pictured p99

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R104

N E W

F L A V O U R SO F � T H E

W O R L D@ d a n o n e u l t i m a t e

@VisitJapanAU

There’s a side of Japan

waiting to be discovered.

Far from the neon lights.

Far from what you’d expect.

And it’s closer than you think.

Start discovering at www.japan.travel/en/au

N O V E M B E R

TRAVEL

p110

Snorkelling atHeart Reef,

The Whitsundays

Luxury experiences to splurge on in Australia,checking into Melbourne’s United Places boutique

hotel, and Lennox Hastie’s guide to Sydney.

Treat yourself

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A round a year ago, I realisedI was terrible at celebratingstuff. This took me bysurprise, because I spent

a lot of time in fancy restaurants,crowded parties, theatres and hotels.I could have argued that it’s my job toknow the best ways to celebrate, notjust in my town, but in destinationsall over the globe. As a travel writer,surely I am a celebration hunter?

Nope. A nice experience is notthe same thing as a celebration.A celebration requires us to be fullyin the moment, basking in glory,

At some point in recent decades, we lost theart of celebration. Perhaps this is our chance

to rediscover it, writes ANNA HART.

The art of...celebration

And there are not-quite-celebrationswhen we almost always miss themoment, like when we buy a houseor get a promotion. Big life milestonesthat should be marked, we’re told,with a Champagne cork popping anda roomful of gleeful familiar faces. Butin truth, I’ve never really celebrateda professional achievement the waythey do in Sex and the City, Friends oranother reliable documentary aboutmodern life. By the time a new jobcontract finally arrives, ending weeksor months of uncertainty, I’m busypanicking about my first week in the

new role, or beating myselfup for not asking fora bigger raise.

I’ve been marginallybetter at celebrating otherpeople’s birthdays, newjobs, new homes andother minor triumphs,but even then, it’s rarethat a “celebration” doesn’tfall short; often because itfails to lift us out of ourroutine. A celebratorybottle of wine isn’t really

a celebration if we had one the nightbefore. And a birthday dinner at arestaurant we go to every month justwon’t stand out in our memory banks.

At some point in the latter decadesof the 20th century, we lost the art ofcelebration. We became too accustomedto everyday abundance to notice themild uptick in our indulgence levelsat a supposed celebration. We becametoo busy and frantic to engageemotionally with what it is we’re meantto be celebrating. Social media playedits part, too; it became more importantto document ourselves enjoying anevent than to actually enjoy the event;

contentment, relief or even sorrow,whatever the celebration requires.We need to taste the present moment, feel the present moment, hear thepresent moment. Celebrating isabout wallowing in the now, likea warm Jacuzzi.

Celebrating is not an easy thingto do if you’re a 21st-century human.My life was not short of lavishexperiences and pleasant sensations,but even though I tried to call themcelebrations, and Instagrammedthem as such, I just wasn’t movingslowly enough to truly celebrate.

The mostobvious typeof not-quite-celebrations arethose that windup feeling likeanother notchon our endlessto-do list. Lastyear, I had fourboozy Christmasparties in a row.By the end of theweek I was viewingthese social obligations much likea dentist’s appointment; momentsto plough through but certainlynot savour.

There are not-quite-celebrationsthat are joyless because of our ownanxieties, like the birthday dinnerI hosted a couple of years ago, whichI spent stewing in my own worriesabout it being a failure. All my pleasurein the evening was retrospective, whichimmediately disqualifies an event frombeing a celebration. If you think mybirthday sounds bad, I have friendswho cheerfully admit they hated their own wedding days.

The past fewmonths have been

something of acelebration detox,

with lockdownresembling a strict

rehab facility whereI was treated for

celebration abuse.

Anna is a travel andlifestyle journalist,and author of the

travel memoirDepartures.

@annadothart

it’s often hard to do both. Throw inthe guilt drummed up by the wellnessindustry – guilt about that glass ofChampagne or chocolate truffle – andcelebrating was pushed beyond ourreach on most occasions.

But today, this has changed. Thepast few months have been somethingof a celebration detox, with lockdownresembling a strict rehab facility whereI was treated for celebration abuseand abundance fatigue. Now, I’mbeing released back into the worldwith a new, healthier relationshipwith celebration.

Celebrations aren’t an indulgence;they serve a purpose. Small momentsof celebration make us pause and bemindful, and when we stop to savourthe good stuff of life, we protectourselves against the bad, bufferingour souls, and building resilience.Celebrations give us something to lookforward to. And in 2020, we could all do with a bit of that. ●

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 109

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T h e a r t o f t r a v e l

Splurging on a special dayout often leads to the mostmagical travel memories.

With far-flung travel off thecards, you can create the same

sensation closer to home,writes MICHAEL HARRY.

B I G

D A Y

O U T

T he day began rattling along the narrow, jungle-fringed lanes of Qualiain a golf cart. As the sun rose, I pulled up to the private helipad –an Aztec-inspired cobblestone circle on the water’s edge – as a familiarbuzz hummed in the distance. Soon, a fly-like, glass-fronted chopperdescended to scoop up our party of four from Hamilton Island andspirit us away over the Great Barrier Reef.

My stomach dropped and lurched as we hurtled over the sponge-like islands, jewelled reefs and the blinding sweep of Whitehaven Beach below, beforewe touched down on a custom-built pontoon floating within an easy snorkel of therenowned Heart Reef.

You know Heart Reef – the love heart-shaped hoop of marine life that’s becomea symbol of the Whitsundays. Until recently, its secluded position meant you could onlysee it from the air, but now you can arrive like an action hero, landing on top of a privateclubhouse that conceals a glass-bottomed boat. For an all-too-brief hour in the sun, wesipped Champagne for breakfast and splashed around the pristine reef, marvelling atthis wildly improbable, utterly glamorous outpost that’s been built, well, just because.

The Journey to the Heart tour is one of those once-in-a-lifetime blowouts you onlythink to do on holiday. So often the art of travel is asking why not? Book that day trip, take the upgrade, and make those memories that will last a lifetime.

Last year, on a week-long getaway to Bali, I decided to head east to the laudedAmankila resort on the black sand beaches below Mount Agung. The resort itself wasan understated palace of raised stone walkways and thatched-roof pavilions, but it was a day on the water that proved the most memorable.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R112

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I’ll never forget the sunny afternoon I spent bobbing on the inky waters ofLombok Strait, lying on the padded roof of a traditional wooden outrigger, trying,in vain, to read my book as I drifted in and out of sleep. Crisp white towels were laidout, beckoning us to salute the sun, as we sipped ice-cold Bintang beers served byuniformed deckhands. Later, we escaped the dazzling mid-afternoon heat, enjoyinga simple lunch in our cabin: papaya salad, spicy sambal and tangy nasi goreng.

Splurging on an incredible meal also makes for a day to remember. One of my mostmemorable holiday feasts came in Mexico City, where I landed a spot at Pujol, EnriqueOlvera’s famed fine-diner in the backstreets of Polanco. I arrived at the restaurant –designed like a contemporary house on an upscale residential street – ready to go all-out.

The rolling series of mod-Mex dishes didn’t disappoint: revamped tamales splashedwith green curry sauce, barbecued ox tongue, and striped seabass. And the showstopper: darkly complex mole madre, aged for 1796 days.

It will still be some time until any of us can enjoy five-year-old Mexican mole orspend a day cruising Balinese waters but that doesn’t mean you can’t experience thosemagical moments that come from saying, why not?

Why not splurge on an over-the-top day trip? Why not make some memories right here at home? Here are just a few ideas to get you started for a day to remember. ➤

I’ll never forget the sunnyafternoon I spent bobbing

on the inky waters of Lombok Strait.

THE ART OF FINE DININGUp the ante on booking a private room and reserve

the whole of the National Gallery of Victoria for dinner.Between two and 30 guests get a private gallery tour,

plus intimate banquet in front of the NGV’s masterpiece The Banquet of Cleopatra. Talk about meta.

Price: minimum spend $39,000 for up to eight.

For another arty dinner to remember, Tasmania’s Museum of Old andNew Art (that’s Mona to most) offers dinner with its famously reclusive

founder David Walsh. The “Dinner With David” package includesa lavish meal at Mona’s Faro restaurant, with private jet transfersfrom Sydney or Melbourne (border restrictions allowing) plus the

best room at Mona Pavilions. Such an experience has a pricetag to match, at $50,000 per person. Both are available

via Tourism Australia’s top-tier experiences outfit. culturalattractionsofaustralia.com

Celebrated wineryd’Arenberg offers a white-knuckle flight over McLaren

Vale and its famousRubik’s-style “cube”.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R114

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CATCH OF THE DAYAnyone can book a table at a harboursiderestaurant, but how about going off-grid for a longlunch? Located in the midst of Bass Strait, Flinders Island is a raw, untouched slice of Tasmanianwilderness that’s a short hop from Melbourne,Hobart or Launceston, if you have the wings. Thecatch and cook experience offers a plane transfer,which lands on a private airstrip where guests getto work catching the freshest crayfish straight fromthe sea. After another scenic flight over the island,stump up for lunch at The Flinders Wharf and eatwhatever you’ve caught, prepared by chef Cate Hardman. You’ll be home in time for dinner.Price: $3625 per couple. theflinderswharf.com.au

SOUTHERN BELLESTwo high-rolling days out in South Australia bothinvolve charmingly retro vehicles. Celebrated wineryd’Arenberg offers a white-knuckle flight over McLaren Vale and its famous Rubik’s-style “cube” from theopen cockpit of a 1930s biplane. Upon landing, guestsare taken through a blending session to create theirown one-of-a-kind bottle of shiraz, followed by anextravagant eight-course degustation at d’Arry’sVerandah Restaurant amid the verdant vines.Price: $1130 per couple. darenberg.com.au

Meanwhile in the Barossa, guests can tour the regionin a chauffeur-driven, air-conditioned 1962 Daimler.The car seats eight, but is more comfortable for two,and the package includes lunch at Vintners Restaurantand afternoon tea at Maggie Beer’s Farm Shop. Very civilised indeed. Price: from $325 per person. barossadaimlertours.com.au ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 115

THE BIG CHILLWhile we can’t spend Christmas thundering down the SwissAlps this year, there is another way to take to the skies andsee some snow. Antarctica Flights charters Qantas Dreamliner787s for a 12-hour, 10,000-kilometre round trip, which allowsfour hours cruising over the world’s most isolated continentand a lifetime of bragging rights. Naturally, the best spots areby the window at the pointy end, and deluxe business class passengers swap at the halfway point of the journey soeveryone gets an unobstructed view. It’s a total immersionin all things Antarctic, with inflight entertainment about thesnowy tundras and on-board experts commentating on thestrange landscape below. The journey is the destination and this is the ultimate joyride to the southern hemisphere. Price: $7999. antarcticaflights.com.au

The key to a travel splurgeis choosing an extravagantmode of transport – horse

and carriage, perhaps,or luxury super-yacht.

PLANE SAILINGFor a scenic flight that’s closer to home, Sydney Seaplanes offersdeluxe day trips over Australia’s most famous harbour that landin time for lunch. Launching from Rose Bay, guests are whiskedup the coast to classic restaurants, such as Jonah’s Whale Beach,which has been catering to daytrippers since 1929. Aside fromthe sweeping views, the fresh seafood is the standout here, from tuna tartare and king prawns, to John Dory served with burntbutter, lemon and spinach. The flights are short but sweet – withother packages including Champagne and oysters at the BrokenBay Pearl Farm or a Sydney Harbour to Bondi scenic flight with Champagne brunch. Who needs Sydney traffic?Price: from $290 per person. seaplanes.com.au

ADVENTURE TIMEFor something more active to raise the pulse, try catchingepic barramundi in Australia’s Top End on a heli-fishingadventure in the Kimberley. A private helicopter toursflood plains and gorges before landing at a secret fishingspot near Kununurra. Spend the rest of the day pullingbarramundi from the water and cooking up your catch. Price: $1550 per person. helispirit.com.au

If that sounds too strenuous, try heli-golf instead. Catcha chopper from central Sydney to the Hunter Valley andtouch down at The Vintage course designed by Greg Norman,then step straight into a golf cart ready for 18 holes. There’slunch to follow at The Gates restaurant at Leogate EstateWinery, with the helicopter waiting to take you home. Price: from $2590 per person. golfandtours.com ●

JOIN THE JET SETThe key to a travel splurge is choosingan extravagant mode of transport – horseand carriage, perhaps, or luxury super-yacht? Levantine Hill doubles down onthe flashy vehicles with its Prancing HorseDrive Experience. First, board a Microflitechopper from Melbourne’s CBD for a quickcruise over the eastern suburbs to theYarra Valley wine region. Then selectyour fast and furious wheels: a Ferrari488 GTB, perhaps, or a LamborghiniHuracán LP 610-4? After a 150 kilometreper hour spin around the neighbourhood,you’ll park at the Fender Katsalidis diningroom for a lavish six-course degustationfrom chef Teage Ezard. Expect crisp porkbelly, truffled goat’s curd, and other luxe offerings, with matching wines. Thechopper home definitely beats an Uber.Price: $3990 for two. levantinehill.com.au

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Chef LENNOX HASTIE shares his top tipsfor eating and drinking in the Harbour City.

A CHEF’S GUIDE TO…

Sydney, Australia

BOLD CARIBBEAN FLAVOURSIn spite of its location in The Star casino,I love Momofuku Seiōbo. It’s not so much about the space but the people thatinhabit the space, which is led by chefPaul Carmichael and restaurant managerKylie Javier Ashton. There’s a lot of same-same in Sydney, but Paul’s Caribbeanfood is so different to what anyone elseis doing in terms of flavour and approach.

AN ITALIAN FAVOURITELuMi Dining in Pyrmont is a husbandand wife-run restaurant I’ve been goingto for a while. The restaurant servesa courageous chef’s menu that’s broadlyItalian but features Japanese finesse.Chef Federico Zanellato is like me;a little bit crazy but in a good way.He’ll do something repeatedly untilit’s amazing, but then he wants to getit even more perfect. There’s almost an obsessive quality about that.

D iners flock to Firedoor in Surry Hillsto watch Lennox Hastie play with fire.A former head chef at legendary Basquegrill Asador Etxebarri, Hastie is obsessed

with exploring the magic that happens when primeAustralian ingredients meet wood, fire and smoke.When he’s not at the (literal) coalface of his Sydneyrestaurant, these are the places the one-time GT BestNew Talent winner and newly minted Netflix star likes to eat and drink. PH

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As told to Jessica Rigg forThe Local Tongue. For more

chef’s guides from around theworld, see thelocaltongue.com

WHERE I TAKE VISITORSWhen chefs are in town, I tend to takethem to Sean’s Panaroma in Bondi fora long lunch. There’s something veryAustralian about going to the beachand sitting near the water and havingAustralian ingredients simply presented.The quality of the ingredients at Sean’sreally speak for themselves. I also bringa couple of bottles of Australian winebecause Sean’s do BYO, which isamazing. It’s somewhere I can happily go and instantly feel at home.

ASIAN COMFORT EATINGIf I’m after comfort food, I go and seethe guys at Boon Cafe. It’s five minutesaway from Firedoor and is a one-stop Thai shop where you can pick upvegetables and groceries. I’ll get somecrab rice and green juice to balancethings out. There’s also Chaco Ramenwhich does amazing ramen, and Chaco Bar has the best yakitori in Sydney.

NOSE-TO-TAIL VIETNAMESEBanh Xeo Bar at The Cannery inRosebery is run by a couple of St Johnalumni: Tania Ho and Benjamin Sinfield.There’s nothing Ben likes more thangetting a whole pig, breaking it downand celebrating each part of it on themenu. Things like pig’s head nuggets with roasted bone marrow, andincredible broths – it’s exactly whatI want to eat most of the time. They’resuch a lovely, humble young couplewho are always pleased to see you.

THE BEST PUB IN TOWNBeing British, I like spending time inpubs. One of my favourites is the LordNelson in The Rocks, and is the oldest pub brewery in Sydney. It’s got anamazing beer offering. Over the lastyear we’ve collaborated with them tomake beers for the restaurant and eachone is different. The last one was madewith Geraldton Wax and desert lime, andthe next one will be Davidson’s plumand wattleseed red ale with rye malt.

LOCAL COFFEE SPOTGreat coffee is something peoplein Sydney take for granted until youtravel and go to the airport or out oftown. It’s great to have Single O inthe neighbourhood. I love the culturethe team has created around coffee– they’re super passionate. It’s notjust a white coffee or black coffee,but cold-drip, long-pour or on-tap. It’smind-blowing to think coffee has somany different styles and profiles.

STEP INTO MY OFFICEFiredoor is a different kind of grillrestaurant that blows away yourpreconceptions of what a grill restaurantis and what it can be. That was always my hope for it. We have no gas orelectricity and we cook everything overa wood fire to order. We don’t even usecharcoal. We light a fire every single dayand time our preparations in harmonywith the heat. It’s the craziest form ofcooking, and is the hardest form to geta consistent result with, but what weconsistently find is that everythingwe produce over fire is delicious. ●

Clockwise from right:Sean’s Panaroma in

Bondi; the dining roomand woodfire grill at

Firedoor; LuMi Dining’schawanmushi. Opposite:

Sydney Harbour.

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We take the guesswork out of local travel with our tips on whereto stay, eat, drink and play. This month, GT hits South Yarra.

CHECKING IN

United Places, Melbourne

S o u t hYa r r a ,

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Q u i c kl o o k

W h e r e157 Domain Rd,South Yarra, Vic

F a c i l i t i e sPrices from $650

per night for a one-bedroom suiteSpa/Gym No

Restaurant YesFree WiFi YesButler 24hr

There’s something unique about United Places: it’s a hotel that simultaneously makes you feel likea VIP and a local. Located in Melbourne’s bustling suburb of South Yarra, and directly opposite theverdant Royal Botanic Gardens, the super-boutique 12-suite hotel – dubbed a “home hotel” – hitsthe perfect balance between luxury and leisure. Its understated good looks come courtesy of theCarr Design Group (the team behind Jackalope in the Mornington Peninsula), with each suitefeaturing a private terrace and well-equipped kitchen, plus designer touches, such as plush velvetPatricia Urquiola sofas, bath products by Le Labo and organic cotton throws by Loom Towels. Butthe attention to detail doesn’t stop there – a butler, on-call around the clock, welcomes you andcaters to your every need. If home was as comfortable and sophisticated as United Places, we’d probably never step outside the front door. unitedplaces.com.au

BreakfastCombat a cool spring morningwith the warm embrace of aEuro-style breakfast at Ned’sBake, where freshly bakedpastries, tarts and buns filla glass-topped counter, andartisan loaves line the wall. Ifyou’re looking for somethingmore substantial, don’t gopast the double-baked goat’scheese soufflé or porchetta,gruyère and pickled chillitoastie. nedsbake.com.au

LunchAn elegant neighbourhoodbistro and bar, Omnia deliversa seasonal menu in a soothingspace with soaring ceilingsand jungle-inspired greenery.Settle in for a long lunchfeaturing crisp ocean troutcigars, cherry wood and honeyroasted duck, and liquid-centrecheesecake with blackberrysorbet. Then retreat to thebar out the back for bespokecocktails. omniabistro.com.au

DinnerAt Matilda, executive chef Scott Pickettfavours an open flame, hot coals and local,seasonal produce to create a relaxed fine-diningrestaurant that is both beautiful and delicious.The signature Fraser Island spanner crab withfinger lime is particularly special, served ona bed of seashells, ready to top chargrilledflatbread. Located on the ground floor ofUnited Places, savour the experience in thesoftly lit dining room and linger late into thenight before heading straight upstairs to bed,or order in-room dining to be set up by your butler. matilda159.com ●

E X P E R I E N C EWith a picnic basket and rug at the ready, make your way to the bustlingPrahran Market (Australia’s oldest continuously running food market)and curate a personalised spread to be enjoyed al fresco. Stop by Maker& Monger for cheese, grab a baguette from Q Le Baker, pick some freshfruit, then find a serene picnic spot at the Royal Botanic Gardens. If you’refeeling energetic, hit the 3.8km Tan Track for a scenic loop of the gardens.

EA

TThe proximity of these stellar bars to each other warrantsa venture. Neighbouring United Places is Botanical Hotel,aka “South Yarra’s Local”, where you can catch the lastrays of daylight as you sip from its award-winning winelist. Head down Park Street, take a left onto Toorak Roadand you’ll find South Press Wine House. Candlelit tables,a floor-to-ceiling wine wall and bountiful cheese boardswill keep you going. Check both ways before crossingto Tetto di Carolina; an intimate space offering European-leaning refreshments. And when it’s time for a nightcap,make your way to Shadowboxer – a 19th-century terrace bar featuring an exclusively Australian wine list. B

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Clockwise fromleft: a GrantFeatherstonScape armchairin the penthouse;in-room dining;the Tan Track;and a picnicin the RoyalBotanic Gardens.Opposite: theliving area inthe gardenpenthouse.

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121G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

They’re the flavours of the month, so put these items at the top of your wish list.

G o u r m e t s h o p p i n g

A G o u r m e t Tr a v e l l e r p r o m o t i o n

Bar Geek Yes, it is a jigger in the shape

of a pineapple! With 60ml capacity and

increments marked at 10/15/20/30/45/50/

60ml, it’s available in stainless steel,

copper or gold. These start at $28.95.

bargeek.com.au

ILVE’s Professional Plus series is a

bespoke, custom-made product. Colours,

fi nishes, hobs and ovens can be combined

to fi nd the perfect balance between

functionality, power, style and aesthetics

in the kitchen. $7,999. ilve.com.au

Longines’ HydroConquest collection is

now available in green hues. Inspired by

the world of aquatic sports and featuring

a bezel enhanced with a coloured ceramic

insert, these watches add a touch of

modern styling. $2,400. longines.com.au

Kumato® is a unique brown-coloured

tomato variety that is extremely sweet

and has a bold flavour that changes as

the tomato ripens from green to brown

to dark red. 300g $4.00, 500g $5.90.

perfection.com.au

La Cornue The CornuFé 110cm

freestanding range cooker with two

independent ovens is the symbol of joyful

cuisine that is full of fl avour, available in

seven standard and hundreds of bespoke

colours! POA. andico.com.au

Morella Grove Extra Virgin Olive Oil comes

from the clean environment and fertile

soils of the Riverina – that means our

olives are grown chemically free using the

best sustainable environmental practices.

morellagrove.com.au

Laughing Jack brings elegance to the

table with the 2018 Jack’s Shiraz – a

generous fruit with a seductive palate,

estate-grown from family-owned

vineyards, open top fermented and basket

pressed. $25 at laughingjackwines.com

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Connoisseur The Connoisseur Plant

Based range delivers the fi nest plant-

based ingredients with the creamiest

texture, in the perfect combination of

fl avours. Multipack of 4: $8.60 and 1L

tubs: $11. connoisseuricecream.com.au

Harvey Norman This sleek black

refrigerator delivers good looks and

outstanding features like a multifunction

control panel and electronic temperature

control. Hisense Bottom Mount Fridge

(left): $1699. harveynorman.com.au

Gourm

et Traveller Marketplace TO ADVERTISE PHONE 02 9282 8369 I HOMESTOLOVE.COM.AU/DIRECTORY

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Long queue out the frontSatisfy your pasta, chicken,veal and rissotto appetite with us,

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Morella Grove is a family operated farming businessestablished by the Dal Bon family from the Riverina area.Morella Grove produce award winning Extra Virgin OliveOil and a range of other delicious products.

morellagrove.com.auShopOnline

morellagrove 0421 918 955�

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02 9267 0799 look@medusagreektaverna.com.au

www.medusagreektaverna.com.au

Its origin is in antiquity, and is theembodiment of a very social nature

of Greek eating and drinking.

A truly memorable dining experience, with the cuisine and atmosphere paired

as thoughtfully as food and wine.

Sydney’s FavouriteGreek

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Have you missed a trip to Italy?“Italy in the Yarra Valley”

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and wine in a region that is rich in Italian heritage.

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/hawthorntravel hawthorntravel

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Made using artisan techniques & premium natural ingredients.

Trophy-winning dairy and non-dairy ice creams.

1800 815 067www.maryrossitravel.com

The very best in luxury can be found right here in Australia.Our travel advisors have connections with Australia’s

finest hotels & resorts giving you access to exclusive offers,VIP benefits and upgrades.

Call us to discuss your travel plans. We’ll help you plan unique and unforgettable journey at home.

HIDDEN ITALY: BONDI TO MANLYfully-supported self-guided walk

Better than the Cinque Terre?? We are pleased to present the firstfully-supported, self-guided walk from Bondi to Manly: five days,eighty kilometres around marvellous Sydney Harbour, one of themost stunning waterways in the world, starting and finishing at two ofSydney’s most iconic beaches.The walk presents the very best of this exceptional city: the bestwalks, the best beaches, the best parks, the best food and the bestaccommodation. It includes four nights in 4-star accommodation(including a harbour view room at the spectacular new Eco-resort inTaronga Zoo) two dinners and all breakfasts.

FULL DETAILS:www.hiddenitaly.com.au/australasia/

he house with

y Matin table nshop.com

your table with an original artwork

screen-printed on oat linen.

ie and Neil Lake Saffron tablecloth, $245, bonnieandneil.com.au

Be bold and

colour your

home with pink

hues, bursts

of saffron and

geometric

designs.

Designed by Harry Nuriev

for Crosby Studios.

Elegantly illuminate any room in th

this classic and colourful lamp. Halamp in Yellow, $355, finnishdesign

A playful sculpture

and seat all in one.

Kartell Pilastro stoolin Pink, $605,

spacefurniture.com.au

Goblets, from $69 for 4,maisonbalzac.com

Set your drink on

an Art Deco-

inspired spot.

Aeyre coaster set in Purple, $129,

reliquiacollective.com

Top y

hand

Bonnfrom

TheeditNew style and design for your home.

Sip in style this summer with

multicoloured glassware.

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Accent your living room with a visually playful and inviting chair

made from speckled recycled plastic. Confetti armchairs by GibsonKarlo,$2680 each, designbythem.com

Beautiful food deserves to

be served on a beautiful plate.

Gio Ponti Aurea dinner plate,$100 gregnatale com

This vibrant appliance will

levate the simplest of tasks.

Smeg Slot 4-slice toasterin Pink, $279,

harveynorman.com.au

Frille table by MakeBelieve,

$625, ccss.shop

$100, gregnatale.com

e

Featuring gentle corrugated curves, this soft pink buffet

is both pretty and practical. Ridge buffet in Blush Pink,$5937, beelinefurnituredesign.com.au

Make mealtime a grand occasion

with gold and mint green cutlery.

Cutipol Goa 24-piece cutlery set,$735, petersofkensington.com.au

Update your kitchen

with a decorative

geometric tile.

Milano marble tile, $389, per sq m, gregnatale.com

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R 127

H o m e

Di Stasio Città,

Melbourne

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1 Bernadette Madelein A-line gown,

$1812, Farfetch. 2 Khaite Georgia

satin mules, $834.88, Net-A-Porter.

3 LA Collection Asteria silk blazer,

$1,390, Harrolds. 4 Mateo 14-karat

gold sapphire hoop earrings, $806,

Net-A-Porter. 5 Emilia high-neck midi

dress, $360, Shona Joy. 6 Issey Miyake

Pleats Please high-neck plissé top,

$320, Farfetch. 7 Versace Dylan

Turquoise fragrance, $165 for 100ml,

David Jones. 8 Alexander McQueen

Duchesse silk-satin straight-leg pants,

$2,209, Net-A-Porter. 9 Coperni

App leather shoulder bag, $785,

Mytheresa. 10 Grove blouse, $295,

Aje. 11 Christian Louboutin Kate

85 suede pumps, $975, Mytheresa.

12 Dries Van Noten satin top, $555,

MyTheresa. 13 Chanel Tweed

handbag, $8,160, Chanel. 14 Huishan

Zhang Kora tiered sequined tulle

gown, $3,721, Net-A-Porter. 15 T1 Wide

diamond ring, $8,500, Tiffany & Co.

I n sp i r edby

Celebrate in style by adding a touch of gold glamour to these party-ready pieces.

Cocktail hour

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R128

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Partyprep

It pays to be prepared,especially when it

comes to your skin.Try these glow-

inducing productsto show off your

most radiant skin.

1 Fast-absorbing face oil for soft skin. Youth To The People Superberry Hydrate and Glow Face Oil, $62, sephora.com.au 2 Ultra-hydrating self-tannerwith hyaluronic acid. Tan-Luxe Super Glow Serum Self Tanner, $59, sephora.com.au 3 Four-week intensive treatment program for vibrant glowing skin.Sisleÿa L’Intégral Anti-Âge La Cure, $1,450, sisley-paris.com.au 4 Vitamin C-packed tanning and skincare hybrid. St.Tropez Purity Vitamins BronzingWater Face Serum, $34.99, priceline.com.au 5 Removes dry skin and preps lips before lipstick. Karen Murrell Sugar Scrub $29.95, karenmurrell.com6 Plumps and moisturises. Charlotte’s Magic Cream Moisturiser, $125, charlottetilbury.com/au 7 Deep hydration for 72 hours. Emma LewishamSupernatural Anti-Ageing Peptide 72-Hour Crème, $131, emmalewisham.com 8 Serum-oil combo for plump skin. Sand & Sky Australian Emu AppleDreamy Glow Drops, $74.90, sandandsky.com 9 A lightweight serum packed with botanicals. Jurlique Herbal Recovery Signature Serum, $95, jurlique.com/au 10 A limited-edition lip balm for a smooth, natural shine. Fresh Sugar Blood Orange Hydrating Lip Balm, $24, sephora.com.au 11 Chemical-freehigh-SPF sunscreen that leaves no white cast. Emma Lewisham Skin Shield Daily Face Antioxidant, $85, emmalewisham.com 12 Certified organic oil serum for cellular regeneration and skin nutrition. Imbibe Collagen Protect, $130, imbibeliving.com

G T t e a mf a v o u r i t e

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Transform every cuppa into a high tea treat with handmade ceramics and a glimmer of gold.

Tea party

Clockwise from left: Tab mug, $43, Zakkia. Cake stand in Haze, $149.95, Batch Ceramics. Cristina Re glass side plates in Rose, $24 for two, Peter’sof Kensington. Seletti Hybrid Smeraldina teapot, $185, Peter’s of Kensington. Peasant plate in Haze, $49.50, Batch Ceramics. Seletti Kintsugi mug,$76, Peter’s of Kensington. Cristina Re gold-plated teaspoons, $24 for four, Peter’s of Kensington. Milk pourer in Satin, $34.95, Batch Ceramics.Apulian teacups and saucers, $80 each, Alex and Trahanas. Stem tea strainer in Brass, $58, Zakkia. Terazzo Dimple tray in Rose, $47, Zakkia.

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O b j e c t s o f d e s i r e