Spool Pin

(1) Make sure the cotton reel holder (or spool pin) is in the correct hole and tight.

With the earlier machines oneend of the spool pin is slightlytapered and push-fits into theretaining hole.

They sometimes become loosebut a few taps with a lighthammer generally solves theproblem. If the pin is still loose,roughen up the tapered end witha file to make it stay tight.

(2) On the later 201s, like the oneabove, the pin is threaded at oneend and has a screwdriver slot atthe other.

Oiling (Top of Machine)

An elderly sewing machine thathas not been properly refur-bished and lubricated will runhard.

In a hot dry climate, considerableenergy will be wasted using amachine that doesnt turn easily -besides shortening its future lifeand usefulness.

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The hole (A) nearest the bobbin winder should be oiledwhen the needle is at its lowest. (You can see the feltpad at the top of the connecting rod below the hole).

The hole (A) immediately to the right ofthe cotton reel spindle should be oiledwhen the needle is at its highest point.

The hole (A) immediately to the right ofthe cotton reel spindle should be oiledwhen the needle is at its highest point.

The hole (A) to the left of the cotton reelspindle should be oiled when the threadtake up arm is at its lowest point.

The hole (A) to the left of the cotton reelspindle should be oiled when the threadtake up arm is at its lowest point.

Like all other machinery a sewingmachine will not give satisfactionif its working parts have becomegummed or dry.

Oiling holes are provided aboveotherwise inaccessible movingparts where there are bearingsand friction. All moving parts incontact must be covered with afilm of oil and not allowed tobecome dry.

You should always use goodquality sewing machine oil.Thicker, inferior oil will clog thebearings, prevent efficientworking and cause rapid wear ofthe mechanism.

(3) First make sure all the oiling holes in the top of themachine are clean and not gummed up.

A drop of oil injected properlyinto each oiling hole is sufficient -do not over oil.

It is most important that eachmachine should be turnedaccording to the instructions onthe previous page - when oil isapplied at point A. This allowsthe oil to drop directly on themainshaft crank below whichmight otherwise be missed.

(4) When oiling, insert the oil can spout well into the oil holes.

After oiling run the machinerapidly for a few moments andthen wipe the top arm over with aclean cloth.

Stitch length setting

The length of the stitch, and itseasy regulation, is a crucial partof successful sewing.

Fine material requires a fineneedle & thread and a shortstitch. Heavy material requiresthe opposite. About 18 stitches tothe inch makes a suitable seamfor ordinary sewing.

The visible part of stitch setting isthe stitch control knob or leveron the front of the machine.

There is also the mechanisminside. These two elements aredealt with here - first the control,then the mechanism model bymodel.

(5) Check that the knob is freeto turn and can easily be moved up and down.

To alter the stitch length on the15K machine, first loosen thescrew then move upwards toincrease or downwards todecrease; except on the 15K26model when it operates in theopposite way.

When the required stitch lengthhas been obtained, it can be setby tightening the knob.

(6) Unscrew the knob as far as itwill go, clean the knob andthe thread. Put a couple ofdrops of oil on the threadand screw it up again.

The 66 and early 99 models use ascrew to control the stitch. Fullyscrewed in for the longest stitch,unscrewing the knob producesshorter stitches until the fabricremains stationary.

The ability to reverse stitch wasintroduced on later 99s and gaverise to the following two types ofcontrol levers (7 & 8). Thisallowed the more accurate andfaster setting of stitch length.

(7) At first this consisted of asimple lever and a scale institches per inch.

If the lever is moved above thehorizontal line, the machine willBack Tack or stitch backwards.

This is used to seal the end ofseams so that they cannot loosen(not for long runs).

This in turn was modified as weshow overleaf...

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(8) The scale is now on the left,and the red dot in the slotindicates the setting from 6 to 30stitches per inch. Check that thelever moves freely from top tobottom of the slot.

To regulate the length of thestitch, first turn the thumb nut onthe lever anticlockwise awayfrom the stitch indicator plate asfar as necessary.

Then move the lever up or downuntil the red dot is at the desiredstitch setting.

Now turn the thumbnut inwarduntil it touches the indicatorplate (do not over-tighten as thiscan cause the setting to change).The machine is now set to stitchthe desired number of stitchesper inch in a forward direction.

For Back Tacking, raise the leverto the upper end of the indicatorplate. The machine will nowstitch in a reverse direction,making it easy to fasten the endsof the seams.

(9) If the indicator plates or leversneed cleaning, they can beremoved by undoing the tworetaining screws.

In the case of the simple lever (7),the indicator plate can beremoved by turning it by 900

when it will slide past the lever.

In the second case (8), there is ascrew inside the knob. Un-screwing this will remove theknob.

(10) The 201 introduced a furthervariation. A lever with the stitchlength being set by loosening thethumbscrew at the left andsliding it in the curved slot.

(11) The plate under the indicatorscale revolves with it, blocking offthe lower part and the upper partof the lever slot as it is lifted.

Tightening the thumbscrew thenlocks the stitch at that maximumlength, while again allowing backstitching to be done at a flick ofthe lever.

Check that the lever moves freelyfrom top to bottom of the slot. Ifthe indicator plates or leversneed cleaning, they can beremoved by undoing the tworetaining screws.

(12) This picture shows thecomponents of the 201 stitchlength setting control.

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Stitch Length Mechanism

(13) In all models, the stitchlength control levers or screwsconnect with a mechanism in thebase of the machine.

There is very little differencebetween models in this area, sothe 66 is used as an example.

All the internal components ofthe stitch length control areshown in the above mockup.

Stitch Control Parts:

A: Locating screw and thrustwasher - located under balancewheel.

B: Slide. Rotates on A, under thecontrol of C, the Stitch lengthknob. Note the pin on the slideengaging with the groove on C.

C: Stitch Length Screw or leveron other models.

D: Roller which fits into the slide.

E: Connecting rod. The yoke atthe top fits into a crank whichwaggles the rod. The rollerprovides a fulcrum. The bottomend is fixed to the feed dog arm asshown in the inset.

As the stitch control screw orlever is moved, the slide turns,changing the fulcrum point andvarying the movement at thebase of the rod.

As the whole of this mechanismis enclosed in the machine, itnormally needs little cleaning.

(14) This shows the locating screw and washer under the balance wheel. Check that the washer is intact.

The washer has three projectinglugs. These, with its shape,provide some friction whichprevents the stitch lengthwandering from its setting,particularly with the lever types.

(15) The best view of the mecha-nism is obtained from the back of the machine.Loosen the screw on the cover plate to make it visible.

(16) Put a drop of oil on the slide and the locating screw.

Model differences

(17) On the 15K there is an armprojecting into the machine atthe bottom of the back opening.The stitch length mechanism isattached to this, instead of theside of the machine.

(18) On some 201s only (the laterones with the brown colouring)there is an oiling hole inside theback inspection cover just belowthe gear wheel.

Give it a drop of oil and turn thebalance wheel a few times tolubricate.

Note: 99 Models do not have aback opening. Oiling must bedone from the opening under thebalance wheel.

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