LOOK INSIDE FOR:

▼ Tips for better towing

▼ Step-by-step safety

checklist

PLUS:

▼ Road rules in all

50 states

Produced by

Trailer Boats magazine

in conjunction with

T O W G U I D E

ContentsYour Guide to Towing

Chapter 14 Tow Vehicles

Chapter 2 11 Towing Equipment

Chapter 3 19 Loading, Leveling

and Driving

Chapter 4 28 Trailer Wiring

Chapter 5 33 Trailer Hitches

Chapter 639 Launching and

Retrieving

Chapter 7 46 Safety Checklist

Chapter 8 44 Towing Laws

48 Towing Resources

How to choose your tow vehicle

How your tow vehicle should beequipped

How to set up and drive with atrailer in tow

How the wiring on your trailershould work

Understanding the differenttrailer hitches

How to launch and retrieve atrailer boat

The DOs of safe towing

Road rules for towing in all 50 states

If you love to fish, waterski, cruise,

camp, hike or just get outside and en-

joy some clean, fresh air, a trailerable

boat or camping trailer can be a great

way to satisfy that craving.

You can take a trailer almost any-

where — to the river, a high mountain

lake or campground, or to the beach —

and unlike dock-bound boats or vaca-

tion cabins, you can bring it all back with

you to keep it safe, secure and conve-

niently stored at home.

Yet, towing a trailer seems like an over-

whelming challenge to some. Meeting

those challenges, making informed deci-

sions and taking knowledgeable actions

will help you to maximize the enjoyment

of your trailer boat or camping trailer. As-

sisting you in discovering how to do this

safely, securely and self-assuredly is what

Your Guide to Towing is all about.

Produced by the editors of Trailer Boats,

Camping Life and Bass&Walleye Boats

magazines, this booklet serves as a step-

by-step tutorial for newcomers and a re-

fresher course for trailer-towing veterans.

If, after reading this informative book-

let, you still have questions, we invite you

to write to the companies listed in the

Towing Resources Index on the last page

of the booklet. You can also write the ed-

itors of Trailer Boats, Camping Life and

Bass & Walleye Boats using the contact

information on page 48.

Published by Ehlert Publishing Group, Inc.,20700 Belshaw Ave., Carson, CA 90746-3510,310/537-6322, FAX 310/537-8735. Copyright©2004, Ehlert Publishing Group, Inc. All rightsreserved. Printed in U.S.A.

T O W G U I D E 5

1C H A P T E R

How to Choose Your Tow Vehicle

1

4 T O W G U I D E

Tow Vehicles

Whether you’re an old pro or a novice,

towing can be tricky. The first step in

any case is to have the right equipment,

and that begins with having the appropriate tow

vehicle. However, there’s one thing to keep in

mind when choosing a tow vehicle: You first need

to know how much your towed load (boat or trav-

el trailer) really weighs.

In the case of a boat, that towed weight in-

cludes the trailer. It comes as a surprise to many

would-be buyers that manufacturers generally

furnish “dry” or empty weights (without op-

tions) for boats or camping trailers. Camping

trailers with the Recreational Vehicle Industry

Association (RVIA) seal should have a label that

provides unloaded vehicle weight (UVW) with

factory-installed options. Boat catalogs often list

the dry weight of the hull, but not the weight

of the engine or the weight of the boat’s trailer.

And although some furnished weights are quite

accurate, these figures should only be used as

guidelines.

For example, a boat weight may only include

the hull. To that, you may have to add engine

weight, accessories, all the extra equipment

stored in the boat and, if towing with a full load

of fuel or water, figure about 6.1 pounds per gal-

lon of gasoline and about 8.3 pounds per gallon

of water. Diesel weighs about 7.1 pounds per gal-

lon, and LPG (propane) weighs about 4.5 pounds

per gallon. Depending on boat size, trailers can

weigh anywhere from a few hundred pounds to

more than 2000 pounds. So it’s not unusual for

that 4000-pound boat to grow by 1500 to 2000

pounds when it’s ready to tow.

The most accurate way to determine your

towed load is to weigh the boat/trailer or camp-

ing trailer as it is outfitted and loaded when it’s

ready to tow. It only costs a few dollars at a public

scale, and it can save thousands of dollars in un-

expected repairs to an ill-equiped tow vehicle.

BUYING A TOW VEHICLE

As a rule, if you want to tow a heavy load, you

need a full-size pickup or sport-utility vehicle (SUV).

If you have or plan to buy a small tow vehicle, such

as a compact pickup or SUV, you will have to stick

with a smaller, lighter boat or camping trailer.

Every vehicle has a tow rating. A full-size truck’s

tow rating can be as high as 10,000 pounds or

more. The best place to find this information is in

the vehicle owner’s manual. Some automotive

manufacturers offer towing guides that include

tow ratings and detailed information on extra

equipment needed to tow heavier loads. They are

available from dealers, manufacturers’ information

offices and also can be called up on the Internet.

Most cars today have negligible tow ratings.

Modern automobiles have severe limitations, and

C H A P T E R

TOW RATINGS OF 4WD TRUCK MODELS are often lower than those of 2WD models. However, the

advantage of purchasing a tow vehicle with 4WD capability, despite the slightly lower tow rating, is the

ability to easily pull the trailer boat up a steep or slippery boat ramp.

6 T O W G U I D E

C H A P T E R1 C H A P T E R 1

on whether the vehicle is equipped with a manu-

al or automatic transmission and if it is equipped

with four-wheel drive (4WD).

The GCWR is a type of tow rating, and perhaps

the most important of all. The GCWR is the total

weight specified by the tow vehicle (light truck,

medium-duty truck or motorhome)

manufacturer as the maxi-

mum allowable loaded

weight of the tow vehicle

and its towed trailer or

towed vehicle. This

means all the weight of

the vehicle, and trailer

or towed vehicle, and

all passengers, equip-

ment and fuel carried in both. The best way to

make sure your rig does not exceed these ratings is

to take the vehicle and trailer to a public scale, fully

equipped (or add the weight of extras later), and

get them weighed accurately.

In addition, almost all vehicle and chassis

manufacturers recommend that a

supplemental brake control system

be installed to activate the brakes

on the trailer being towed. Ve-

hicle owners should also con-

sult individual state laws con-

cerning this subject, as well as

other trailering requirements.

There are also a host of ac-

cessories that automakers may

T O W G U I D E 7

BOAT CATALOGS OFTEN LIST the dry weight of the hull, but not the weight of the engine or the

boat’s trailer. It is best to weigh your entire trailer/boat package prior to a tow vehicle purchase.

DIESEL ENGINES, SUCH AS THE

Ford 6.0L Power Stroke pictured, are

excellent powerplants for towing

heavy loads.

fewer than a handful are rated to tow more than

2000 pounds. Those limitations exist because of car-

body structures and powertrain (engine, trans-

mission, axle) components. If you overextend a

modern car not rated to tow a heavy load, the con-

sequences can be costly repairs and diminished

highway safety. For towing loads over 2000 pounds,

the only real option for those who need to tow with

a car are older automobiles properly equipped for

towing (see Chapter 2/Towing Equipment).

In recent years, trucks (pickups, SUVs and

vans) have become very popular. With the demise

of automobiles as tow vehicles, trucks have more

than taken up the slack with roomy, comfortable,

four-door models. Most modern trucks have the

structural integrity necessary to easily handle

heavy loads — as long as that load is within the

manufacturer’s towing recommendations.

The larger the truck, the sturdier the construction,

the stronger the suspension, and the larger the

engine will be. This makes them superior to mod-

ern automobiles for towing. In addition, most

have a separate, full frame that provides a secure

mounting location for the hitch.

TOW RATINGS

Deciphering tow ratings can be confusing, unless

you read the fine print. For example, a maximum

tow or “trailer weight” rating may be for an un-

loaded vehicle with only the driver aboard, a full

fuel tank, oil and water, but not with passengers or

optional equipment, such as air conditioning. It’s

not unusual to add 500 pounds of options to

some vehicles, another 500 pounds for passengers

and still another 500 pounds for luggage and

other boating/camping gear. That can effectively

lower the actual tow rating by 1500 pounds —

and you must take this into account when choosing

a tow vehicle.

Tow rating charts often include three “cate-

gories” that deal with weight. These are Gross Vehi-

cle Weight Rating (GVWR), Trailer Weight Allowance

(TWA), commonly stated as “maximum trailer rating,”

and Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR).

The GVWR is the maximum permissible weight

a fully loaded vehicle may weigh. That number can

be found on a label inside the driver’s-side door.

TWA is the maximum weight a vehicle can

tow. Be aware that this figure can vary depending

C H A P T E R1

T O W G U I D E 9

C H A P T E R 1

require for tow vehicles, especially trucks. These

often include a heavy-duty radiator, engine-oil

cooler, transmission-oil cooler, wiring harness,

specific axle ratio, heavy-duty suspension, and

special wheels and tires. These accessories would

be expensive if bought separately. However, most

manufacturers offer “trailering packages” that in-

clude these items. Packages often include a hitch

(drawbar and hitchball not included). These fac-

tory-installed tow packages are considerably

cheaper than if you add them later.

Don’t shortchange yourself by skimping on

required items. Each required accessory adds to

the vehicle’s towing capability and durability.

KNOW BEFORE YOU BUY

One of the most frequent comments from new

vehicle owners is: “I was told by the dealer that

my vehicle could tow 5000 pounds, but it does

that poorly and sometimes even overheats.” They go

on to say that various expensive items were

added, but performance is still unsatisfactory.

A prospective buyer may have been given the

maximum tow rating for a vehicle with the tow-

ing package, but was sold one without that

package. Without a towing package, that same

vehicle may be rated to tow only 2000 pounds.

Carefully read the window sticker that is posted

on the vehicle at the dealership. It will tell you pre-

cisely what equipment is on that vehicle. Be aware,

too, that there may be more than one towing

package offered by a manufacturer. One may be

for light-duty towing (often 3500 pounds maxi-

mum), while the other is for heavy-duty towing.

2WD OR 4WD?

Until recently, drivers have had only two drive-

system choices for their tow vehicles: Two-wheel

drive and four-wheel drive.

Two-wheel drive (2WD) means that either the

front or rear wheels are the driving wheels. When

on a steep launch ramp or very steep incline, the

front of the vehicle usually lifts, causing the front

tires to have less traction than the rear. When

this happens with a front-drive vehicle, it will

facilitate wheel spin and can limit the driver’s

ability to retrieve the boat.

However, vehicles with a 4WD system can be

especially useful on a steep or slippery launch

ramp, because the front wheels can help pull it

IF YOU TOW A HEAVY LOAD, you will need a

full-size pickup (opposite page) or sport-utility

vehicle. A full-size pickup’s conventional tow

rating can be as high as 12,000 pounds.

and the boat up. A special benefit of 4WD is

that it has a “low range” — a lower gear range

that increases the torque delivered to the wheels

for more power to pull a heavy boat up a steep,

wet ramp.

Tow ratings for 4WD systems are usually lower

than they are for 2WDs, because they add weight

to the vehicle, and the extra weight detracts from

the GCWR.

All-wheel drive (AWD) systems also make

all four wheels turn at the same time, but

through a different system than 4WD — usually

a computer-controlled viscous coupling. This is a

tremendous safety advantage for all kinds of

driving, especially on wet or slick surfaces. With

all wheels driving, the vehicle is also more stable

and controlled on winding, curving roads. How-

ever, AWD also adds weight to the vehicle and

can reduce the trailer tow rating.

On the plus side, modern AWD systems go

into action in a matter of milliseconds with com-

puter control. It continues to adjust for wheel

spin at any or all wheels just as quickly. It’s an

excellent feature on slick launch ramps.

Understanding exactly what your tow vehicle

is equipped with and how much weight it can

actually tow is the key to being happy with your

tow vehicle choice.

10 T O W G U I D E

C H A P T E R1

How To Equip Your Vehicle for Towing

Towing Equipment

Most vehicles require additional equipment

for towing. The equipment package often

includes various cooling systems, heavy-

duty suspension components, the appropriate axle

(ring and pinion) gear ratio and usually a more

powerful engine. However, some towing packages

do not include a hitch or wiring, so you’ll need to

get that on your own. The purpose of this extra

equipment is to increase the longevity of your tow

vehicle and improve its trailering performance.

A tow vehicle’s greatest enemy is heat. It affects

everything that moves. Controlling that heat usually

isn’t a problem during normal driving, as long as the

vehicle is used within its prescribed limits. But, when

you make it work hard, such as when towing, heat

will build up more rapidly. Your major concerns

must be keeping engine coolant, engine oil and

transmission oil temperatures at proper levels.

ENGINE COOLING

All engine radiators work on the same principle.

As liquid coolant circulates from the engine block

and through the radiator, heat is dissipated from

the radiator to the surrounding air. Consequently,

the greater the cooling surface area and/or the

more air that passes over that surface, the faster

the heat is drawn from the coolant.

The harder an engine works, the more heat it

generates. That’s why manufacturers offer optional

heavy-duty cooling systems and/or include them

in towing packages. A heavy-duty cooling system

generally has a radiator with one or more addi-

tional cores for greater cooling capacity. A core

is a layer of cooling fins and tubes through which

the hot water passes.

Included in many heavy-duty cooling systems

is a more powerful fan that increases airflow

T O W G U I D E 11

C H A P T E R 2

12 T O W G U I D E

C H A P T E R2

T O W G U I D E 13

C H A P T E R 2

1

3

2

4

5

6

7

8

9

ANATOMY OF A TOW VEHICLE

1. Powerful V-8 engine with broad torque band

2. Automatic transmission with wide gear range

3. Heavy-duty engine cooling

4. Auxiliary transmission cooling

5. Full ladder-style frame

6. Heavy-duty rear suspension

7. High-ratio axle gearing

8. Frame-mounted receiver hitch

9. Large side mirrors

through the radiator. Quite often, a heavy-

duty fan is thermostatically controlled, so it

operates only when coolant temperature be-

comes too high.

ENGINE OIL COOLER

Engine oil can also reach unusually high tempera-

tures when towing, especially in engines that

have smaller oil capacities. Many auto manufac-

turers require the use of oil coolers for towing. Oil

coolers are routed from the engine oil filter to an

auxiliary radiator. Adding an aftermarket deep-

sump oil pan will increase oil capacity, which can

also help cooling.

By keeping oil temperature down, you lower

overall engine temperature. This is especially

important when towing in the mountains or in

high-heat desert conditions.

TRANSMISSION COOLER

The most overlooked cooling device is the auto-

matic transmission fluid cooler. The premature

failure of an automatic transmission is almost

always due to overheating, and this usually occurs

when towing.

Automatic transmissions generate heat when-

ever the vehicle is moving. The harder the power-

train works, the more heat is generated inside the

transmission. Without some way of cooling the

transmission fluid, heat will continue to build.

Normal automatic transmission fluid (ATF)

temperatures are 170 degrees F. Once those

temperatures exceed 200 degrees, the ATF begins

to break down rapidly as heat increases.

Many of today’s vehicles already have trans-

mission coolers built into the radiator. But these

are for normal use only. For towing, most manu-

facturers recommend auxiliary coolers. An auxiliary

cooler has a separate radiator that is normally

mounted in front of the coolant radiator. Deep

sump pans, like those used for engine oil, are also

available for transmissions and add more fluid

volume, which can help control temperatures in

the transmission.

AXLE RATIO

The proper axle (ring and pinion) gear ratio keeps

the engine operating at a sufficient speed to best

use its available power. Up to a point, an engine

turning higher rpm when towing will run cooler,

14 T O W G U I D E

C H A P T E R2

Driveshaft

Universal JointPinion Gear

Ring GearDifferential Gears

Axle Housing

Axle Shaft

THE AXLE RATIO

IS DETERMINED

by the difference in

rotation between the

pinion and ring gears.

The pinion gear transfers power from the

transmission to the larger ring gear, which is

located in the differential and drives the

axles. A ratio of 2:1 indicates that the smaller

pinion gear must rotate two times for each

revolution of the ring gear. A ratio of 4:1

means the pinion turns four times to each

ring-gear revolution.

Each axle ratio has its own advantages and

disadvantages. A low axle ratio can offer better

16 T O W G U I D E

C H A P T E R2 C H A P T E R 2

fuel economy, quieter operation, higher top

speeds and longer engine life. A high axle ratio

(4.10:1, for example) can increase pulling power

and give better acceleration. When towing, how-

ever, if an axle ratio is too low, the engine can-

not operate at optimum rpm while maintaining

speed, accelerating or climbing hills; thus it over-

heats. Generally, good axle ratios for towing are

between 3.50:1 and 4.10:1.

On new vehicles sitting on the dealer’s lot, the

axle ratio will be listed on the window sticker.

If you don’t know your present vehicle’s axle ra-

tio, there are several ways to find out what it is.

Some manufacturers stamp it into the differential

or transaxle housing, or on a metal tag attached

to the differential cover. More commonly, it is in

code and part of the Vehicle Identification Number

(VIN) or some other identification number, such

give better performance and better fuel economy

than an engine that is laboring (running too

slow). Axle ratio also affects acceleration and

tow ratings.

For light, non-towing loads, the vehicle can

use an axle ratio that has low numbers, such as

a 2:1 ratio. When subjected to heavy loads, high

numbers are preferred, such as 4:1. The axle ratio

is determined by two gears in the differential:

pinion and ring gears.

TEMPERATURE REGULATION IS one of the most important

strategies for extending powertrain component life in your tow vehicle.

AFTERMARKET OIL AND TRANSMISSION

fluid coolers are available in different sizes for a

variety of tow-vehicle applications.

T O W G U I D E 17

Oil Cooler

Radiator

Trans FluidCooler

Oil Pan

Transmission

ENGINE

AUXILIARY OIL AND TRANSMISSION fluid coolers are key

elements in reducing high operating temperatures in tow vehicles.

A trailer tows best when level, so do your

level best to get it that way when attached

to your tow vehicle by adjusting the hitch

ball height. This can be done using a dropped or

raised drawbar, or with an adjustable hitch.

Weight distribution can affect trailer handling,

too. Make sure the trailer is properly loaded —

front to rear, and side to side. Because most of a

boat’s weight is over the axles, it will generally be

properly balanced when empty. Due to the engine,

however, a small boat is often heavier at the rear.

In this case, gear is usually packed in the forward

section to offset the heavy weight at the stern. If

the loaded boat is not properly balanced on the

trailer, the bow stop and axles can be moved fore

or aft to alter tongue weight.

For camping trailers, it is usually recommended

to add cargo to the front to increase tongue

weight. Bicycle racks and other gear storage ap-

pliances can lead to trailer sway if not mounted

properly, especially with lightweight trailers that

are more susceptible to changes in weight distri-

bution. With bike racks or storage boxes mounted

at the rear, the tongue weight of the trailer is

lightened. Again, be aware of the total weight

you are adding to the trailer.

SWAY CONTROL

Camping trailers — and some large boat trailers

— often use sway controls. These usually mount

to the drawbar near the hitchball and reach to a

point on the trailer tongue. A damping device

(such as a shock absorber or friction pad) is used

to control side-to-side movement and help keep

sway in check.

Passing trucks, gusting crosswinds, steep

downhill grades, and excessive speed can cause

sway. Slow down before approaching downhill

sections and areas of gusty wind. To reduce the

tendency of a trailer to sway, keep tongue weight

between 10 to 15 percent of the total towed

weight for camping trailers; boat trailer tongue

weights of 5 to 8 percent are recommended.

Keep the tow vehicle’s tires and trailer tires in-

flated to the maximum cold pressure stamped on

How to Set Up and Drive with a Trailer Behind Your Tow Vechicle

Leveling, Loading and Driving

T O W G U I D E 19

C H A P T E R 3

18 T O W G U I D E

C H A P T E R2

AIR SPRINGS (bags) are one way to improve a tow vehicle’s rear suspension. They are easy to install

and can be adjusted for different loads.

anti-sway bars — particularly if your towed load is

large and heavy.

ADDITIONAL MAINTENANCE

Towing places extra stress on any tow vehicle.

You need to pay closer attention to routine

maintenance than normal. Manufacturers have a

separate maintenance recommendation for

heavy-duty use, such as towing, which is outlined

in the owner’s manual.

Most importantly, you need to change engine

and transmission oils and filters more frequently, and

lubricate components and check cooling systems

at shorter intervals than you would on a vehicle

used strictly for passenger duty.

If you have the appropriate equipment on

your tow vehicle, and are prudent when it comes

to an accelerated maintenance schedule, it

should offer you many happy, carefree trailering

miles.

as on a sticker or card pasted inside the glove

compartment or doorjamb. It’s best to check with

a dealer as to where you can locate and how to

decode a number that refers to the axle ratio.

SUSPENSIONS

A vehicle’s suspension not only helps the driver

maintain control and provide for passenger com-

fort, but it can affect the trailering performance.

Too soft a ride when towing can make the vehicle’s

rear end sag, bounce and even sway. This is why

factory supplied towing packages include heavier-

duty suspensions.

Usually, springs with higher spring rates

(stiffer), heavy-duty shocks and larger diameter

anti-sway bars are included in these factory towing

packages. Often, though, even factory towing

packages may need to be supplemented with ad-

ditional equipment such as aftermarket air spring

(bag) systems, performance shock absorbers and

T O W G U I D E 21

C H A P T E R 3

air pressure when tires are cold, before moving

the trailer. Tires heat up and air pressure increases

after traveling only a short distance.

Wheel nuts must be tightened to a specific

torque rating so they won’t rattle loose. Too

loose or too tight can be a bad thing; they must

be just right. This is best done with a torque

wrench, not the air-impact wrench your tire shop

probably used. Your automobile owner’s manual

or the wheel manufacturer (in the case of cus-

tom wheels) should be able to furnish the proper

tightening settings and procedures. And always

retighten the nuts after the first 25 miles. Tandem

axles on trailers do not steer, so their wheels tend

to flex and loosen more than single-axle trailers.

Check and retighten them frequently.

READING THE LABELS

Now, let’s look at the fine print on the trailer’s

labels. First, federal law requires trailer and tire

registration information. So fill out any forms you

get from the dealer and mail them to the appro-

priate source. This makes it possible for the man-

ufacturers of the various products — tires, axles,

coupler and so forth — to issue a defect notifi-

cation, if applicable. It is insurance for you so

you’ll know about a possible problem in time to

have it corrected.

Now, check the metal or plastic certification

label attached by the manufacturer to the left

forward side of the trailer. It will show the maxi-

mum permissible loaded weight of the trailer.

Known as the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating

(GVWR), it is the load-carrying capacity plus the

empty weight of the trailer. This total weight in-

cludes all options, gear and fluids in the trailer.

Remember that fluids add weight.

Many camping trailers have 30-gallon water

tanks and 6-gallon hot-water tanks. Water

weighs 8.3 pounds per gallon. And don’t forget

the weight of the filled propane bottle(s), and all

the gear, luggage and other cargo you’ve loaded

into the trailer. Do not exceed the GVWR! If you do,

you stand a good chance of breaking something.

If you don’t know how much it weighs, take it to

a public scale and find out.

LAWS, SAFETY AND COMMON SENSE

Trailer laws covering such things as brakes, lights,

safety chains and licenses vary from state to state.

Be sure that your trailer is in full compliance with your

state laws.

One of the most often overlooked trailering laws is

that regarding safety chains. The purpose of safety

chains, of course, is to keep the trailer from becoming

detached from the tow vehicle while towing. Some

their sidewalls. On larger trailers, it’s a good idea

to install a sway control device.

If your trailer starts to sway, SLOW DOWN,

but don’t stomp on the brake pedal. Turn the

steering wheel as little as possible while main-

taining control of the vehicle. Because of your

natural reaction time lag, counter-steering can

actually increase sway. If the trailer has electric

brakes, use the hand control to apply them; this

will help keep the vehicles aligned. Stop as soon

as possible and check tire pressure, sway control

and spring bar adjustments, and look for cargo

weight shifts or mechanical failures.

Until the problem has been corrected, keep

your speed down to maintain full control. Keep in

mind that one of the greatest factors involved in

the inducement of trailer sway, other than incor-

rect weight distribution, is excessive speed.

TOW VEHICLE LOADING

The load carried inside a tow vehicle is an inte-

gral part of the vehicle’s tow rating. Two critical

figures you should be aware of are front and rear

Gross Axle Weight Ratings (GAWR). These figures

tell you how the vehicle is designed to handle a

load. In light-duty vehicles, the rear GAWR may

be less, which means you can only carry a limited

amount of weight back there. Overloading the

rear axle with gear and/or passengers can affect

towing stability and safety.

The more crucial figure is the Gross Vehicle

Weight Rating (GVWR). If you add up the two

GAWR figures, you’ll find that they exceed the

GVWR. The reason for this is to give you the flex-

ibility of where to stow extra weight. However,

never exceed the GVWR. These weight figures

can be found on a placard on the edge of the

driver’s door.

TIRES AND WHEELS

People often forget to check tow vehicle tire and

trailer tire pressures. These should be considered

your lifelines to the road. Tire failure is the cause

of most towing accidents. Under-inflation is the

prime cause of trailer-tire failure because the ex-

cessive sidewall flexing creates overheating that

can lead to blowouts. It is recommended you

maintain proper cold tire pressure on trailer tires,

as indicated on the tire sidewalls or the trailer

manufacturer’s certification label. Always check

20 T O W G U I D E

C H A P T E R3

TIE-DOWN STRAPS SHOULD BE used on the bow and stern to make sure the boat stays securely

settled on the trailer during travel.

SAFETY CHAINS SHOULD BE as tightly strung as possible, without hindering the trailer’s turning ability,

and crossed to act as a cradle to catch and keep the trailer’s tongue from hitting the ground if it comes

loose from the hitch ball.

CHECK ALL LUG NUTS prior to every trip you

take with your trailer boat or camping trailer.

EXTENDED SIDE-VIEW MIRRORS are especially useful when towing large boats or camping trailers.

TO STEER IN REVERSE, put your hand at the

bottom of the wheel. Moving your hand to the

right turns the trailer to the right, and vice versa.

T O W G U I D E 23

C H A P T E R 3

You will notice reduced acceleration, longer stop-

ping distances, lower fuel economy, some blind

spots in your mirrors (especially with large trailers)

and a much wider turning circle.

The wider turning circle becomes evident when

rounding sharp corners. Your trailer will not turn in

the same arc as the tow vehicle. You’ll need to make

a much wider swing to avoid curbs and road signs.

Also be aware of the extra length required

when changing lanes or passing. Watch your mir-

rors closely to make sure there’s enough room to

move over, and always use your turn indicators.

Courteous drivers will flash their headlights at you

to indicate there is adequate clearance.

When it comes to stopping, remember to

keep your distance. Look farther ahead than usual

and anticipate your — and others’ — actions.

When towing, your stopping distance will in-

crease dramatically. This is not the time to tail-

gate. Also be aware that after retrieving a boat

from the launch ramp, the trailer brakes will be

wet, temporarily reducing their effectiveness.

SIDE MIRRORS

One of the first things you’ll learn is that your

main rearward vision will be from the side mirrors.

On most vehicles designed to tow heavy loads,

the standard side mirrors should be adequate

until boat or trailer width exceeds 8 feet. Extended

mirrors (available from boat or RV dealerships)

will become a valuable accessory. Vertical mir-

rors are often the best choice since they offer a

better view of the tow vehicle and trailer wheels.

A convex “spot” mirror on the passenger side

helps a lot, too.

BACKING UP

Driving a trailer in reverse can be challenging, even

for the experienced. Our best advice is to plan ahead

and limit the amount of backing you will have to do.

trailers come with only one chain, which is only par-

tially beneficial. With two chains, you should cross

them to form a cradle. Should the coupler come loose

from the hitchball, it will drop into the cradle and not

drag on the pavement, which gives the driver better

control and usually minimizes potential damage.

Now that you know what can happen when the

coupler comes loose, let’s take a look at what needs

to be done to prevent it. Most importantly, make sure

the coupler matches the hitchball. The coupler will

be stamped with the hitchball size it will mate with:

17⁄8 inches, 2 inches or 25⁄16 inches. If the hitchball is too

small, the coupler will hop off when the trailer

bounces up and down on uneven road surfaces.

Most couplers either have a locking device that can be

activated, or a hole into which you can insert a bolt

to keep the coupler from popping open.

Additionally, don’t forget to securely attach the

breakaway trailer brake cable to the tow vehicle’s

hitch. Usually it can be hooked to the same steel

loop on the receiver hitch that the safety chains

are hooked to. And always plug in your trailer’s

electrical harness to the receptacle on your tow

vehicle. Then make sure all lights, including turn

signals, brakes and backup (if your trailer has

them) are operating correctly.

These topics — overloading your tow vehicle,

tongue weight, sway control, and proper attach-

ment of the trailer to the tow vehicle — are all

things that should be carefully considered before

setting out on any towing adventure.

DRIVING WITH A TRAILER

If you’re unfamiliar with trailer towing, don’t feel

overwhelmed. With a little practice, it really isn’t that

difficult. In fact, with a properly set up trailer and tow

vehicle, you’ll hardly notice you are towing, until you

get into tight spaces. Just keep in mind that you are

now driving with a vehicle that’s a lot longer and

heavier than it was before.

22 T O W G U I D E

C H A P T E R3

C H A P T E R 3

26 T O W G U I D E

C H A P T E R3

GIVE YOURSELF PLENTY of braking room when

towing, especially on downhill grades.

TIRES DESIGNED FOR USE ON trailers are designated with an “ST” sizing, and usually have sturdier side

walls to help handle the heavier loads of boats and camping trailers.

Try to leave yourself plenty of room, and if you have

to turn while backing up, back to your left (driver’s

side). This way you’ll be better able to see the trail-

er’s movements. Also remember the trailer will go in

the opposite direction of the tow vehicle when back-

ing — this is often the hardest thing to get used to.

An easy way to help you through the learning

process is by concentrating on the steering wheel. Try

placing one hand at the bottom of the steering

wheel. Watch your mirrors. Move s-l-o-w-l-y! If you

want the trailer to move right, move your steering

hand to the right. If you want the trailer to move

left, move your hand to the left.

Some people are uncomfortable with this proce-

dure. An alternative would be to turn so you can see

through the rear window and watch what you are

doing, but this can be awkward. Try both, and de-

cide which is most comfortable for you.

Either way, your best friend is practice. A friendly

spotter standing at the rear of your trailer helps

tremendously. Empty parking lots with parking

stripes are great for practicing. Always back slowly —

the faster you go, the more difficult it becomes. The

nice thing about a vacant parking lot is that you can

concentrate on how to move the trailer without hav-

ing to think about striking another object.

This is also a good time for driver and partner to

coordinate their hand signals. Working together as

a team makes backing up a trailer much easier. This

becomes important in tight situations such as camp-

grounds, or when launching and retrieving a boat.

When you first work out signals, be sure you can see

your assistant — otherwise, the person could be

waving frantically only to find his signals ignored be-

cause you can’t see them.

One important tip to remember when backing:

If the trailer heads in the wrong direction too abrupt-

ly, stop, pull ahead and try again. This is much easi-

er than trying to correct your mistake, which leads

to the zigzag pattern you see so often from novices.

T O W G U I D E 29

C H A P T E R 4

hydraulic actuators have come on the

scene recently, and at least one compa-

ny is offering waterproof electric drum

brake systems for boat trailers), the vast

majority of camping trailers operate with

electrically controlled brake systems.

For electric brake systems, you will need

to install a brake controller. Many brands are

available, but all work on the same basic princi-

ple. An amplified electric signal is sent to the trail-

er’s brakes (via an electric brake controller) when the

driver depresses the tow vehicle’s brake pedal.

In addition, the trailer’s electric brakes can be

applied independently — without applying the tow

vehicle’s brakes — through the in-cab controller.

This feature allows the driver to use the trailer’s

brakes to help bring mild trailer sway under control.

ADAPTERS

Many people tow more than one kind of trailer, so

towing packages often include a wiring adapter.

One end of the adapter plugs into a seven-way

connector on vehicles with towing packages, and

the other connects to a flat four-

wire connector. Adapters also are sold at

trailer dealers and hitch-installation centers.

If you tow trailers with different wiring sys-

tems, you’ll need more than one adapter. For

each trailer with a different connector, you’ll need

an additional plug-in adapter.

FLASHERS

Although most vehicles equipped with trailering

packages feature a heavy-duty flasher, some older

vehicles, or those without factory trailering pack-

ages, may need a heavy-duty flasher installed.

The standard flasher is not designed to oper-

ate more than the vehicle’s lights, so it overloads

C H A P T E R

How the Wiring on Your Trailer Should Work

4

28 T O W G U I D E

Trailer Wiring

To be highway legal, a trailer must have run-

ning lights (taillights and/or marker lights),

turn signals and brake lights. Some trailers

even have back-up lights. Of course, this means you

must tap into the tow vehicle’s electrical system.

CONNECTORS

Electrical power is transferred to most boat trailers —

and some camping trailers — by using a four-way

connector, or a five-way (for the back-up lockout

circuit) if disc brakes are used. On the other hand,

most camping trailers and travel trailers — along with

some boat trailers — use seven-way plugs. Some

very large travel trailers even use nine-way plugs.

In a seven-way plug, two wires control the

turn signals and brake lights, a third operates the

running lights, and a fourth is used for ground.

The fifth wire operates backup lights, a sixth op-

erates the electric brakes, and a seventh wire is

used for auxiliary power — such as charging a

trailer battery while towing.

Don’t allow the trailer wiring or plug to dangle

and scrape the ground. The most efficient and safest

way to loom the wiring harness along the trailer’s

tongue is to install clips that hold it to the trailer’s

frame. These are available from hitch dealers.

Connectors get dirty and thus need occasional

cleaning. With the flat plastic plug commonly

found on boat trailers, a few in-and-out, twisting

motions with the pronged part of the connector

will free the open plug of dirt and corrosion. With a

round connector, a contact cleaner will do the job —

and while you’re at it, clean the insides of your

vehicle’s plug receptacle, too.

If you plan to shorten the wiring for a better

fit between tow vehicle and trailer, be sure to

leave enough slack for tight turns. Otherwise,

you’ll disconnect or tear the wiring.

ELECTRIC BRAKE CONTROLLERS

While almost all boat trailers use hydraulic brakes

with a surge actuator (some hybrid electric-over-

CONNECTORTYPE

WIRE FUNCTION

WIRECOLOR

4-W

ay

5-W

ay

6-W

ay

Right Turn &Brake Lights

Left Turn &Brake Lights

Taillights &Clearance Lights

Ground

Backup Lights

Blue

Green

Yellow

Brown

White

Electric TrailerBrakes

Red

CONNECTOR

TYPEWIRE

COLOR

Right Turn & Brake Lights

Left Turn & Brake Lights

Taillights &Clearance Lights

Ground

Electric Trailer Brakes

Black

Brown

Red

Green

White

Auxiliary Power/ Battery Charge

Blue

Auxilliary(Center Pin) Yellow

Dual-Purpose Bulb SystemDual-Purpose Bulb System

A HEAVY-DUTY FLASHER IS

needed when towing. If not

used, the turn signals will

be too dim and may go

unseen by other

motorists.

THERE ARE FOUR MAJOR TYPES OF vehicle-to-trailer electrical connectors for recreational towing,

including four-, five-, six- and seven-way plugs. The chart above outlines the functions for each of the

color-coded wires.

THIS FIVE-WAY PLUG USES a fifth circuit to lock out the trailer’s disc brakes when you back up. An

adapter may be needed to mate with the tow vehicle’s plug.

7-W

ay

COMMON WIRE COLORS & FUNCTIONS

WIRE FUNCTION

T O W G U I D E 31

C H A P T E R 4

when the additional draw of a trailer’s lighting

system is added. This causes the tow vehicle and

trailer turn signals to flash rapidly and/or faintly.

From the driver’s seat, the dashboard turn-signal

lights will also flash faintly to alert you that a

stronger flasher is needed.

Changing to a heavy-duty flasher will solve the

problem. Be sure you get the right heavy-duty re-

placement by reading the packaging carefully to

make sure it is designed for trailering applica-

tions. The flasher is usually located under the

dashboard, and on many vehicles it is mounted in

the fuse box and simply plugs in and out.

WIRING

If doing your own wiring, simply follow the re-

quirements (see the accompanying wiring chart),

but be aware that some automotive manufactur-

ers require a special wiring harness that is includ-

ed only with the towing package. This system has

a built-in sensor to prevent electrical damage to

the vehicle’s lighting system or onboard computer.

If you are wiring such a vehicle, kits are available

that connect directly to the vehicle’s battery, not

to the vehicle wiring.

For boaters, disconnect wiring before launching

or retrieving a boat. If you don’t, the bulbs and

lenses will be hot and when they touch cold wa-

ter, there’s a good chance they’ll crack. Though

a bulb change may not seem a major catastrophe,

if the taillights are sealed units you will have to

replace the entire assembly. Plus, you won’t have

any trailer lights while returning home, which is

both dangerous and illegal.

CONVERTERS

All imports and several domestic tow vehicles use

an international lighting system in which the

turn-signal lights are separate from the brake

lights. This is indicated by an amber lens for turn

signals, and a red lens for lights. The American

lighting system combines the turn signals and

brake lights into one wire instead of two, and has

no amber lenses. If the tow vehicle has an inter-

30 T O W G U I D E

C H A P T E R4

A TYPICAL WIRING PLAN for a boat trailer with disc brakes.

BEFORE TOWING, always check to be sure

all trailer lights are functioning properly.

Ground (White)

5- Way Plug

R.H. Stop &Turn (Green)

Disc BrakeLockout (Blue)

Taillight, License Illumination,Side Markers (Brown)

L.H. Stop & Turn (Yellow)

3 Rear Markers (Red)Needed for Trailers

Over 80” Wide

A little petroleum jelly or light waterproof

grease spread on the surfaces will act as a barrier

against air and moisture, retard oxidation and

keep the lights operating longer. Melt solder

around all wire-to-wire splices, then wrap them

tightly with electrical tape or, better still, with

marine-grade, heat-shrink tubing to seal out dirt

and moisture.

Make it a habit to scrape the prongs clean

with a penknife or sandpaper. Try to scrape off

any surface deposits in the connector holes with

an ice pick, rat-tail file or small piece of sandpaper

rolled around a toothpick (be sure the lights are

off when you do this, otherwise it could blow a

fuse). Then, dab a little grease on the prongs,

push the connector together and wrap electrical

tape around the crack to keep out dirt and

moisture.

Between uses, keep both halves of the plug

protected from weather and scuffing. To keep

dirt from getting into the connecting plugs, wrap

the plug with a small, plastic bag slipped over the

top of each half. Then wind a rubber band

around the open end to seal it.

national system, the two separate wires for turn

signals and brake lights on the tow vehicle must

be combined into one. This is the only way for the

trailer’s lighting system to work properly, and to

accomplish this, a converter is necessary.

A converter is a circuit board built into a small,

waterproof box or built directly into a connector.

The built-in one is preferable because it reduces

the number of wires needed to activate it, so it is

not necessary to have a separate box that needs

to be mounted elsewhere.

Usually, three or four wires coming from the

tow vehicle — left and right turn, and brake wires

— go into the converter and two come out. The

two wires coming out are connected to the left and

right turn connectors in the trailer-plug receptacle.

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE FOR WIRING

Always check your trailer lights before you leave

home. If they don’t work, the most likely cause is

dirt or oxidation on the contact points. Be sure that

all connector-plug prongs and receptacles, light-

bulb sockets, wire splices and ground connections

to the trailer are clean and shielded from moisture.

What You Should Know About Hitches

Trailer Hitches

H itches come in many configurations for

a variety of uses. Some very large boat

and camping trailers (35-plus feet) use

fifth-wheel or gooseneck hitches that mount

in the bed of a pickup. Here, however, we will

focus on those used for the majority of boat

and camping trailers, frame-mounted hitches

ranging from Class I to Class V. We’ll also dis-

cuss the accessories needed for the safe and

proper use of these hitches.

HITCH CLASSIFICATIONS

Four basic classifications are given to conven-

tional hitches: Class I (up to 2000 pounds);

Class II (2000 to 3500 pounds); Class III (3500

to 5000 pounds); and Class IV (5000 to

10,000 pounds). Hitch makers have also be-

gun to use the designation of Class V to indi-

cate a heavy-duty, frame-mounted hitch espe-

cially designed for towing loads greater than

10,000 pounds. These are considered as

weight-carrying or “deadweight” ratings —

which means the hitch supports all of the trail-

er’s tongue weight.

Hitches are rated for Gross Trailer Weight

(GTW) and Tongue Weight (TW). Many Class III

and Class IV hitches have weight-distributing

capabilities, which means they can be used to

distribute tongue weight to the front of the

tow vehicle and to the trailer’s axle(s). This helps

keep the tow vehicle level, and reduces the

weight carried on its rear axle.

Before choosing a hitch, you need to know

your total towed load. Keep in mind that you

can tow a lighter load with a heavier hitch,

but you cannot safely tow a heavier load with

a lighter hitch.

TONGUE WEIGHT

Before we go any further, let’s talk about

tongue weight, which is defined as the weight

of the trailer on the hitchball. This can vary

considerably, depending on how a trailer is

loaded, and how a boat or other load is posi-

tioned on the trailer.

Since most trailer boats have a heavy engine

on the rear, and a long tongue (the distance

from the trailer axle to the hitchball) they of-

ten have lighter tongue weights (compared to

the towed weight) than travel trailers. Typical

tongue weights for travel trailers should be 10

to 15 percent of the total weight. Boat trailers

commonly have tongue weights of 5 to 8 per-

cent. So it’s not unusual for a trailer boat to

have a tongue weight of 200 pounds on a

4000-pound towed weight, while another type

of trailer may have a 600-pound tongue

weight for the same towed weight.

T O W G U I D E 33

C H A P T E R 5

T O W G U I D E 35

C H A P T E R 5

when the tow package is ordered. Top-quality

hitch manufacturers also offer the extra sup-

port necessary for a strong installation.

There are a few variations in Class II hitches.

One has a ball-mount permanently built into

the hitch assembly. Others use a receiver,

which has a removable ball-mount (drawbar)

that fits into a square hole.

CLASS III/IV HITCHES

Once you get into Class III (up to 5000 pounds

trailered weight, 500 pounds of tongue

weight) and Class IV (up to 10,000 pounds

trailered weight, 1000 pounds of tongue

weight) hitches, you’re into the heavy-duty

towing category. This is the area in which you

will almost certainly need a truck and a frame-

mounted receiver hitch. Most important is that

you’ll be getting into very heavy tongue

weights that can affect the way your vehicle

handles and tows.

Although a 500-pound tongue weight may

not sound like a lot, that weight takes on a

different perspective when it’s pushing down

on a hitchball that might be 6 feet behind the

rear axle. This creates a six-foot-long lever,

drops the rear of the tow vehicle and the front

of the trailer, and lifts the front steering

wheels of the tow vehicle.

The result of too much tongue weight can

be sloppy steering, loss of traction at the front

wheels, and bottoming out at the rear of the

tow vehicle, which can cause loss of control.

Too much tongue weight can affect the

distribution of weight on the tow vehicle’s

axles (too much on the rear axle, not enough

on the front axle) which, in turn, can affect the

tow vehicle’s steering, handling and braking.

Most vehicle manufacturers provide a recom-

mended maximum tongue weight when not

using a weight-distributing hitch. Greater

tongue weight than recommended by the vehicle

builder will require a weight-distributing device

in order to restore proper vehicle-axle weight

loads and performance. Hitches also have

maximum tongue weight ratings, called out as

maximum deadweight pounds and weight-dis-

tributed pounds.

CLASS I HITCH

The smallest and lightest weight-carrying

hitch is a Class I, and it’s intended for loads

less than 2000 pounds. It comes in three basic

types: a bumper mount, a bumper/frame

mount and as part of a step bumper.

A bumper-mounted hitch is not recommended

for towing by most automotive manufacturers.

Today’s vehicle bumpers are generally made of

a light alloy or aluminum. Some are steel, but

few have sufficient strength to handle any-

thing but the lightest loads. Aside from not

having sufficient strength, modern bumpers —

especially those on automobiles — can cause a

galvanic reaction between the bumper alloy

and the steel hitch, which can lead to corro-

sion and eventual failure.

In addition, depending on the way it is installed,

a bumper hitch can create a jerking action

when towing that upsets modern impact

bumpers by damaging the bumper’s energy-

absorbing system.

Step-bumper hitches found on trucks

don’t always have tow ratings, and some are

for decorative purposes only. Even though a

step bumper may have a hole drilled through

it for a hitchball, the bumper itself may not

be strong enough to handle a bouncing

tongue load.

If you choose a step bumper setup, be sure

the bumper is properly constructed for towing

and that it has a tow rating stamped into the

metal. Some automotive original equipment

manufacturers (OEM), as well as aftermarket

manufacturers, offer step-bumpers with high

tow ratings.

CLASS II HITCH

Class II hitches are frame-mounted, which

means they connect to the frame or structural

crossmembers of the vehicle, not to the

bumper. They are rated to tow up to 3500

pounds.

Some vehicles may need extra bracing to

help support this hitch. On a uni-body vehicle,

for example, the hitch is bolted to sheetmetal,

rather than to a heavy-gauge, steel frame.

Without extra support, the bolts can pull away

from the sheetmetal. Factory-installed hitches

usually have an extra metal plate for support

34 T O W G U I D E

C H A P T E R5

HITCHES ARE CLASSIFIED by how

much towed weight they can handle.

Suspension aids may help some, but the best

remedy is a weight-distributing hitch. Be

aware, too, that some Class IV hitches are only

rated to tow up to 10,000 pounds with

weight-distribution equipment.

HEAVY DUTY HITCHES

These are large, heavy-gauge steel hitches de-

signed for large trucks with high tow ratings.

They are designed to tow loads over 10,000

pounds GVWR. They can be used as dead-

weight hitches, if the rear axle of the truck has

a high enough rating. Otherwise, most are

used with a weight-distributing system for

better tow vehicle handling characteristics.

One manufacturer is marketing a heavy

duty hitch (10,000 pounds GVWR and up) as a

Class V hitch, but according to SAE J684, there

is no such classification.

WEIGHT-DISTRIBUTING SYSTEMS

A weight-distributing or load-equalizing hitch

system helps spread the trailer’s tongue weight

more evenly between the front and rear axles of

the tow vehicle and the trailer’s axle(s). The result

is a more stable and controllable tow vehicle and

trailer. Weight-distributing systems are generally

used for towing large trailers with heavy tongue

weights. Many of today’s larger hitches (Class III,

IV and V) can accept drawbars designed for use

with weight-distributing systems, so you typically

won’t have to install a separate hitch for towing

heavier trailers.

Class I(to 2,000 lbs.) Class II

(to 3,000 lbs.) Class III(to 5,000 lbs.)

Class IV(to 10,000 lbs.)

T O W G U I D E 37

C H A P T E R 5

the tongue weight of the trailer is not known,

use approximately 5 percent of GVWR for boat

trailers, and 10 percent of GVWR for conven-

tional camping trailers.

If the spring bars are too stiff or set with

too much tension, they can cause loss of rear

wheel traction on slippery surfaces. For exam-

ple, if using a rear-wheel-drive vehicle at a

launch ramp, it will be necessary to remove

the spring bars when launching and retrieving.

Otherwise, the spring bars can cause the rear

wheels to spin as the weight-distributing sys-

tem lifts the back of the vehicle to transfer

weight to other parts of the vehicle and trailer.

If using surge brakes, it is important that

the weight-distributing system’s bars are set

perfectly parallel to the trailer’s surge coupler

to allow the trailer brakes to work properly.

(This is not necessary if your trailer is equipped

with electric brakes.) For example, if the cou-

pler does not plunge properly because too

much upward tension has been applied by the

bars and chains, the trailer brakes can lose ef-

fectiveness. Check with the manufacturer of

your surge-brake coupler for information on

how to set the chains. Various adapters are

also available to compensate for surge brakes

and/or trailer design.

A weight-distributing system consists of a

frame-mounted receiver and spring bars (also

called equalizing bars) that attach to a special ball-

mount assembly and to a trailer-tongue-mounted

platform. The bars have chains connected to snap-

up brackets mounted on the trailer tongue. The

length of the chains can be changed to adjust dis-

tribution of the tongue weight. The spring bars

act like handles on a wheelbarrow. As the wheel-

barrow handles (spring bars) are raised upward,

some of the tongue weight is lifted off of the rear

wheels and shifted forward to the front wheels

and the trailer axle(s).

Spring bars are available in different tension

ratings. Choose bars that are rated equal to or

more than the tongue weight of the trailer. If

36 T O W G U I D E

C H A P T E R5

A TYPICAL WEIGHT-DISTRIBUTING HITCH

is composed of three major elements:

1. Hitch receiver

2. Ball-mount or drawbar

3. Spring bar assembly

They work in unison to provide complete towing

system compatibility.

A WEIGHT-DISTRIBUTING HITCH’S SPRING BARS help distribute the load evenly across the tow

vehicle’s front and rear axles, and the trailer’s axle(s). This results in improved handling and control

when towing large, heavy loads.

CONVENTIONAL WEIGHT-CARRYING HITCHES, which place the bulk of the load on the tow

vehicle’s rear axle, are usually well suited for light to medium loads, but often cause sagging or

handling problems when pulling heavy rigs.

HITCH GUARANTEE

Not all hitches are alike. A number of years ago, hitch

manufacturers set a standard for hitch safety that

was called “V-5.” This standard required numerous

tests to ensure hitches met specific safety standards.

However, this standard is no longer used throughout

the industry.

While you may still see labels touting the V-5

standard, the best way to assure yourself of a hitch’s

construction integrity is to contact the manufacturer

to verify that its product meets SAE J684 standards.

HITCHBALLS

Hitchballs come in three basic sizes: 17⁄8 inches (up to

2000-pound tow rating, sometimes more); 2 inches

(up to 6000 pounds); and 25⁄16 inches (up to 10,000

pounds or more). Some hitchballs have extended

bases and shanks for special purposes.

Be aware that hitchball bases and shanks play sig-

nificant roles in a hitchball’s weight rating. Also,

some shanks may be slightly undersize or oversize.

On step-bumper hitches especially, be sure the shank

(in American measurements) conforms to the hole

(which may be in an off-size metric equivalent, es-

pecially on some import trucks). Above all, be sure

the ball is the proper size for the trailer’s coupler,

since a ball that is too small may allow the coupler

to bounce loose.

1

3

2

A little-known, and little-used requirement for

hitchballs is a “torque recommendation” for the

attaching nut. Usually, a hitch installer will just

tighten it with as much strength as he can muster —

but that procedure won’t always ensure longevity

of the nut and threaded portion of the hitchball.

The general rule for tightening procedures —

using a torque wrench — is 85 lb.-ft. (Class I),

105 lb.-ft. (Class II), 235 lb.-ft. (Class III) and 300

lb.-ft. (Class IV).

C H A P T E R5

How to Launch and Retrieve Your Boat

Launching and Retrieving

Before you launch your boat, be sure to use

the checklist at the back of this booklet so

you don’t forget something important —

such as installing the drain plug. You should

spend several minutes preparing your boat for

launching before you even get in line to use the

ramp. This is the time to remove any rear

tiedowns, attach docklines and fenders, turn the

battery switch and blower on, put gear in the

boat, and generally get ready. Disconnect the

trailer wiring at this point, allowing the bulbs to

cool so they don’t pop when hitting the water.

If your boat trailer has disc brakes, it’s likely to

have an electric disconnect solenoid that allows the

brakes to unlock when backing up. If so, you can

disconnect the harness plug from your tow vehicle,

but keep the pin (blue wire) that powers the backup

solenoid plugged in. Don’t remove the winch strap

until the boat is fully immersed in water.

When you are ready to launch your boat, re-

member to go slowly. If you try to move quickly,

mistakes are more likely to occur. Before backing

down, especially at a new launch site, it is always

a good idea to check the ramp. A slippery ramp

can make the trailer and tow vehicle slide farther

into the water than is desirable.

Once again, it’s always best to back the trailer

to the left. This allows you to see the entire trailer

through the side mirror or by sticking your head

out the window. If you back to the right, you will

be backing blind and may need a spotter to give

you hand signals.

Back down until the trailer wheels are at the

water’s edge. At this point, someone should be

T O W G U I D E 39

C H A P T E R 6

38 T O W G U I D E

HITCHBALL SPECIFICATIONS AND SELECTION CHART

A—Ball DiameterB—Shank DiameterC—Shank Length

HITCHBALLPARTS

A

B

C

DA

TA

PRO

VID

ED

BY

DRA

W-T

ITE

C

LOAD ALL OF YOUR GEAR and perform all pre-launch preparation, such as making sure your drain

plug is in and the transom tie-down straps are removed, prior to backing down the ramp.

Regardless of which hitch you choose, keep

in mind that it must be street-legal, and that

each state has its own requirements. You must

use safety chains (in some states the chains

must be closed-loop fastened) and a break-

away trailer-braking system. And it’s always a

good idea to have some way to lock the cou-

pler in place; certain actions while towing can

uncouple a trailer if there is no safety device to

hold it in place.

BALL AND SHANK diameters increase as weight ratings increase.

BALL SHANK SHANK RATINGDIA. (in.) DIA. (in.) LENGTH (in.) (lbs.)

17/8 3/4 11/2 2000

17/8 3/4 21/8 2000

17/8 3/4 — 2000

17/8 1 2 2000

2 3/4 11/2 3500

2 3/4 23/8 3500

2 3/4 33/8 3500

2 1 21/8 6000

2 1 33/8 6000

2 11/4 21/4 8000

25/16 1 21/8 6000

25/16 11/4 21/4 10,000

25/16 11/4 21/4 10,000

T O W G U I D E 41

C H A P T E R 6

40 T O W G U I D E

C H A P T E R6

WHEN BACKING DOWN THE RAMP TO LAUNCH,

be sure to maintain clear rearward visibility. Backing slightly

to the left will help the driver to see the entire rig. Use a

spotter if necessary to assist launching with hand signals.

Trailer style and ramp conditions dictate how deep the

trailer must be submerged for launching or loading.

T O W G U I D E 43

C H A P T E R 6

Put your foot on the brake pedal, place the

gear selector into low gear, release the

emergency brake, then begin pulling up the

ramp slowly. If the ramp is slick, don’t use too

much power. If your vehicle has four-wheel drive,

this may be a good time to use it. If the wheels

start to spin, try going up the ramp at a slight

angle, effectively reducing the grade.

When at the parking area, be sure everything

is properly stored. Loose items will be a problem

on the highway. Don’t forget to reconnect the

trailer lights and put the rear tiedown straps back

on. Most important, after a long day of fun on

the water, don’t be in a hurry to get home

without following the proper procedures and

precautions.

placed in the boat. Now, back down farther so

the boat’s drive system is submerged to pick up

cooling water. Start the engine and let it warm up.

Make sure the propeller is clear of obstructions

and disconnect the winch hook from the bow

eye, or have a helper do it. If necessary, signal

the driver to back down farther to get

enough water under the boat to float it off

the trailer.

As a matter of safety, blocks should be placed

under the rear wheels of the tow vehicle anytime

the driver is not behind the steering wheel. Once

the boat is free, you can pull forward and park

the tow vehicle and trailer.

RETRIEVING

Retrieving is more difficult for the skipper than

for the tow vehicle driver. Once the driver is let

off at the dock to get the trailer, backing down

the ramp is easier because there is no boat to

create blind spots.

Since empty boat trailers provide less to see,

and therefore less to help you determine which

way the trailer is moving as you back down the

ramp, you may need to angle the trailer more to

maintain a good view. However, be sure the

trailer is straight enough when it is dunked into

the water to make entry easy for the boater.

The style of trailer you have will dictate how

deeply it must be submerged for loading. Roller-

style trailers are designed for winching the boat

onto the trailer, and don’t have to be dunked as

far as a bunk trailer. Be sure the boat driver can

see the bunks or fenders of the trailer so they

can be used as a guide for positioning the boat.

Some trailers offer vertical guideposts on both

sides of the trailer (you can also purchase and

install them yourself) to make it easy to see in

the water. Watch for hand signals from the boat

driver to move the vehicle (and trailer) forward

or backward.

Once the trailer is in place, set the tow

vehicle’s emergency brake and place the shift

lever in park; in the case of a manual

transmission, shift into low gear and turn off

the engine. Once the boat reaches the bow

stop, connect the bow strap. Don’t begin to

pull out until the bow strap is secured and the

engine or outdrive is raised completely to

clear the ground.

42 T O W G U I D E

C H A P T E R6

CLEAR THE RAMP AS SOON AS the bow is resting on the bow stop, the winch hook is secured and the

engine or drive is raised.

SECURELY

STRAP DOWN

the stern of the

boat prior to

getting on the

road after a day

on the water.

T O W G U I D E 45

C H A P T E R 7

▼ Check that the boat hull is snug with the

bow stop and secured with a chain or

tiedown. Do the same with the rear

tiedowns.

▼ All equipment inside the boat or travel trailer

should be properly secured.

▼ With the trailer hooked up and ready to tow,

make sure all tow-vehicle mirrors are properly

adjusted.

BOAT PRE-LAUNCH (IN PARKING AREA)

▼ Remove tiedowns.

▼ Remove engine support.

▼ Disconnect trailer wiring from tow vehicle.

▼ Load and stow gear to be carried on the

boat.

▼ Check boat systems: engine, blower, bilge

pumps, lights.

▼ If the boat has one, turn on the engine-

compartment blower.

▼ Make ready docklines, fenders and boat

hook.

▼ Don’t forget to install the drain plug!

BOAT LAUNCH (ON RAMP)

▼ Back down the ramp far enough to allow

engine cooling water to be picked up.

▼ Set the emergency brake, put the vehicle in

park, and block the rear wheels. With a

manual transmission, put the vehicle in first

gear, turn the engine off, set the emergency

C H A P T E R

Checklist for Safe Towing, Launching and Loading

7

44 T O W G U I D E

Safety Checklist

You can never be too safe when trailering,

and just as any good pilot goes over his

safety checklist before taking off, it’s a

good idea to approach towing in the same

manner. The following is a checklist of important

items you need to address every time you tow

your trailer.

PRE-TOWING CHECKLIST FOR TRAILER

BOATS AND TRAVEL TRAILERS

▼ Check cold tire pressures on the tow vehicle

and trailer. Improperly inflated tires can cause

catastrophic tire failure.

▼ Turn off all propane (or other fuel) sources

and all electric lights and accessories.

▼ Make sure you are towing the trailer in a level

attitude. If not, you need to adjust the height

of your hitchball. If you don’t have an

adjustable-height drawbar assembly,

purchase a drawbar that will position the

hitchball correctly.

▼ Make sure the lug nuts on the tow vehicle

and trailer are tight. Lug nuts should be

tightened to a specific torque setting with a

torque wrench (see your owner’s manual).

Do not use, or allow the use of an impact

wrench to tighten lug nuts — you may have

trouble getting them loose by hand when

trying to change a flat.

▼ All safety equipment should be stowed in the

boat. This includes U.S. Coast Guard (USCG)

requirements for PFDs (life jackets), a

throwable flotation device, fire extinguisher,

whistle or horn, distress signals, and whatever

else USCG and local regulations require.

▼ The engine or outdrive should be in the full

“up” position and secured.

▼ If a boat cover is used when towing, it must

be properly secured or it will blow off or tear

while traveling.

▼ Be sure the coupler is secured. As insurance,

insert a nut and bolt or other locking device into

the hole in the coupler so it won’t accidentally

pop open, possibly allowing the trailer to

become disconnected from the hitchball.

▼ Be sure the trailer jack (and all jack stands on

a travel trailer) are raised and locked in place.

Jacks that are dragged on the road are

potentially dangerous, and can also damage

the jack, trailer or tow vehicle.

▼ Check that the trailer wiring is properly

hooked up and working. Have a partner stand

behind your trailer and tow vehicle to double-

check that all your lights are functioning

correctly. Don’t assume they are.

▼ Be sure the safety chains and emergency

brake cable are in place and properly secured

so they won’t fall off.

brake and block the rear wheels. Do the same

when retrieving the boat.

▼ Lower the engine or outdrive.

▼ Start the engine and let it warm up.

▼ Disconnect winch hook from bow eye.

▼ Proceed to launch.

BOAT RETRIEVAL

▼ Do not submerge the trailer too deep. Most

boats load more readily if the boat’s bottom

can center itself in the trailer bunks or rollers

when the boat is about one-third to half the

distance forward on the trailer.

▼ Approach the trailer slowly, calculating wind

and current direction and strength.

▼ Nudge the boat’s bow into the center of the

trailer before winching or powering onto the

trailer. Always check local regulations that

may prohibit power loading.

▼ Raise the engine or outdrive before winching

the boat onto the trailer or driving up the

ramp.

▼ Clear the ramp area as soon as the bow is

resting on the bow stop, the winch hook is

secured and the engine or drive is raised.

▼ Finish tying down the stern, and secure your

rig for the road — away from the ramp if

possible.

▼ Remove the drain plug.

▼ Wash the trailer and boat, and flush the

engine with fresh water as soon as possible.

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S O U R C E S

For More Information

48 T O W G U I D E

Towing Resources

Copies of Your Guide to Towing can be downloaded from the

Trailer Boats’ website, or obtained at select boat and RV shows

around the country or by contacting:

Trailer Boats 20700 Belshaw Ave.Carson, CA 90746310/537-6322trailerboats.com

Camping Life 20700 Belshaw Ave.Carson, CA 90746310/537-6322campinglife.com

Bass&Walleye Boats20700 Belshaw Ave.Carson, CA 90746310/537-6322 bassandwalleyeboats.com

National Marine Manufacturers Association200 E. Randolph DriveSuite 5100Chicago, IL 60601312/946-6200discoverboating.com

Ford TrucksCustomer Relations CenterP.O. Box 6248Dearborn, MI 48126800/392-FORDfordvehicles.com/trucks

Sea Ray Boats, Inc.2600 Sea Ray Blvd.Knoxville, TN 37914800/SRBOATSsearay.com

Jayco Inc.P.O. Box 460Middlebury, IN 46540800/RV-JAYCOjayco.com

Trailer Manufacturers Assoc.200 E. Randolph DriveSuite 5100Chicago, IL 60601312/946-6200discoverboating.com

NMMA

CERTIFIED TRAILERS

The National Marine Manufac-

turers Association (NMMA)

has developed a boat trailer

certification program. An

NMMA Certified Trailer is

one that is built by a manu-

facturer that complies with

established industry stan-

dards and federal safety reg-

ulations. The certification

tells the consumer that the

boat trailer’s design meets

the standards set forth in the

NMMA Trailer Certification

Handbook. The standards

are based on those pub-

lished by the Society of

Automotive Engineers (SAE)

and in the Code of Federal

Regulations (CFR) Title 49.

Look for the NMMA Certified

label when shopping for

your next boat trailer.iboats.com is the exclusive electronicdistribution partner for the 2004edition of Your Guide to Towing.