The MG Car Company and Its BrethrenFirst off it's important to announce the meaning of the MG logo. MG stands for Morris Garages. These being named after William Morris, who was later created as Lord Nuffield. The marque was first used in 1924 in a bull nosed sports car, now affectionately name Old Number One. This formed the basis of the MG Car Company, with Lord Nuffield at its head. In 1922 management of the MG Car Company was taken over by Cecil Kimber. Kimber was an avid motor sports enthusiast and is also credited for introducing the classic radiator style recognizable on so many cars such as the T-Series MG's. The Nuffield Organization not only owned the MG Car Company but a number of other marques as well, often competing with MG over the years. These included Morris and Riley. At times it seemed that MG could never get the resources they needed to become world leaders in the marketplace. Not only were they competing with the likes of Triumph and Austin, but the real battle seemed to go on internally in the Nuffield Organization. This continued right through the merger of Nuffield and Austin in 1952 which formed the British Motor Company (BMC). MG's were produced in Abingdon, England from the early 1930's until production ceased in 1980. Other cars from the Nuffield organization were also produced at Abingdon during the years and vied for precious resources.

The MG T-Series

In 1936 the MG Car Company made a dramatic change in the design of their sports cars. In this year they introduced the MGTA Midget. The MGTA originated the familiar T-Series design element and to the casual observer, it is hard to distinquish from the MGTC. The MGTA sported the famous radiator design, the swept wings, running boards, folding windscreen, and large accessible bonnet. It was a two seater sports car with a foldable hood and side curtains. Just over 3,000 MGTA's were produced in three years of production. The MGTA suffered from a poor performing engine and in 1939 the MGTB was introduced with the now famous XPAG engine. Only a few were produced as in a few months World War II broke out. During World War II production of MG's ceased as the MG Car Company was put into service for the war effort making tanks and airplane parts, and other military items. When the war ended the the MG Car Company was anxious to get back to making sports cars. They revisited the MGTB and made a few subtle changes. These were in the form of a wider body and shackles replacing sliding trunnions for the spring mounts. The Nuffield Organization also made another drastic change. They started taking an active interest in selling their sports cars in North America. It appears that during the War a number of American GI's had an opportunity to experience the T-Series MG's. When the War ended a number of these cars were imported and then formally sold into North America, especially the United States. The MGTC was produced from 1945 to 1949 with a total production of about 10,000 cars. Due to the fact that the United States had much more cash available to spend on entertainment and sports than did war torn Britain, the Nuffield Organization made a drastic change in their marketing, focusing on North America. In 1949 the MGTC was fitted with many elements to make it more North American such as front and rear bumpers, twin horns, and dual tail lamps. Even by making these changes only a fraction of the MGTC's were imported into North America. There were still too many issues with a car of this type for different North America conditions. Amongst those were driving on the right hand side of the road rather than the left, more high speed maneuvers such as freeways, a softer ride, and some additional creature comforts. What was needed was a total redesign of the MGTC if the MG Car Company was to capture a significant portion of the North American market. What was missing was a total commitment from the Nuffield Organization to do so.

The Legacy of the MGTDIn 1949 a small group of MG leaders, headed by John Thornley, got together to try to create a car that was acceptable to the North American marketplace while at the same time would limit the investment of the Nuffield Organization. Clearly it would be impossible to completely create a new car, not only from a financial point but from a timing standpoint as well. What was needed was a little of the old, sprinkled with a little of the new. Another key factor was to

borrow or incorporate features found in other Nuffield cars of the time that were more up to date than the MGTC. First it was decided to start with the MGTC. It was felt that the MGTC still provided a favorable brand image to the North American marketplace. Many elements of the MGTC were still believed to be important such as:

The styling Safety Fast engineering The powertrain The familiarity of design

What was missing was:

More futuristic styling Better turning and handling A smoother ride Left hand drive More creature comforts such as an optional heater and radio

Quickly a team of MG personnel took inventory of the components of the Nuffield Organization that they had to work with. They discarded the TC's frame because it was to light and not rigid enough. They found what they wanted in the Y types. A small modification to the frame was to have it sweep over the rear axle rather than under. This gave them more travel in the rear springs so they could increase the damping. In addition they adopted rack and pinion steering and front coil springs and wishbones. This and the change in rear end suspension allowed for a smoother ride and better handling than the MGTC. One of the major changes was to reduce the wheel size from 19 inches to 15 inches and increase the tire width to 5.50. All of these changes made the MGTD a superior riding car over the MGTC. Because of the use of the larger frame the body became 5 inches wider. Although the body increased by 5 inches, only one inch actually found it's way into the cockpit so there is an indiscernible difference in the seating width. The biggest change that people notice about the MGTD from the MGTC is the lack of wire wheels. As part of the Nuffield cost cutting challenge the more expensive wire wheels of former T-Series cars were replaced by solid steel wheels. For the entire production run of the MGTD the factory took heat for this decision. They constantly tried to create implausible technical reasons why wire wheels would not work but their reasons were never accepted by the marketplace. In fact wire wheels were one of the most popular aftermarket accessories at the time. Nuffield itself had to offer an upgrade kit to wire wheels during 1953 because the essentially identical 1954 MGTF chassis sported wire wheels as an option. Other changes between the MGTC and the MGTD were more stylized wings, partially due to the smaller wheels. A dual production capable LHD or RHD model, better brakes, adjustable steering column, and an interchangeable dashboard for left or right hand driving were also incorporated. An optional

radio and heater, as well as many accessories designed to improve the performance of the car were made available.

The MGTD ModelsThe MGTD was produced from 1949 to August of 1953. During that period the MGTD saw many subtle changes, but nothing drastic. See the pages on production for details on the changes of the MGTD over the years. The MGTD was offered in three basic models although no more than two were ever available at one time.

TDThe original MGTD was first produced in late 1949 and had it's formal introduction in January of 1950. There were a total of four model years; 1950, 1951, 1952, and 1953. The first model set the stage for what the MGTD was. Because of the short amount of time from the inception of the MGTD to the delivery of the first cars, not everything was quite as the MG Car Company would have liked it. In fact they were still making MGTC's on the production line when the first MGTD's were produced. Other models were also being made on the same assembly line at the same time. This says something of the flexibility of the Abingdon work crews and factory. Most changes to these early MGTD's were unnoticeable from the untrained eye. One exception to this was the change from solid wheels to slotted wheels. Still steal and not wire, but a change nothing else. Most of this seems to be precipitated from the fact that the brakes were fading due to poor cooling. Another change was to stiffen the body by adding an internal under firewall tubular frame. It helped but the MGTD body bucket still seems to flex quite a bit when pressed into corners.

TD IIThe TD II (not to be confused with the MGTD Mark II) was essentially more refinements done to the car by the factory. Minor changes to the engine generated the need to create a new engine type, the XPAG/TD2. This in turn caused them to designate these cars as TD2's, although even their marketing

materials never really mentioned this change. There really weren't any model years for the MGTD, as changes were introduced subtly. The biggest changes occurred during the 1953 model year as sales of the MGTD started to fall in favor of cars like the TR2 and Healey 100. In 1953 MG introduced round taillamps (not sure what the feature of these were), turn signals, a three bow top or hood, and moved the windscreen wiper motor central for safety reasons.

TD/C or TD Mark IIIn the middle of 1950 model year the MG Car Company began factory producing some special MGTD's known as the Mark II. These cars were essentially regular MGTD's that had been given some extra factory accessories and tuning. There was not an exact list of these features, and in fact over the production of the MGTD the features of the Mark II would change. It was also possible at the time to buy everything for a regular MGTD that the Mark II model offered. Some of the changes were to increase the base horsepower of the engine from 54 bhp to 57 bhp, larger tires, additional Andrex friction shocks front and back, higher rear end ratios, dual fuel pumps, and larger carburetors. Most of the features of the Mark II were a part of the staged tuning that was described in various publications and offered as a factory tuning manual. From all these changes it appeared that little changed in how the car actually handled. Many folks opted to buy a regular MGTD and go through a series of Stage Tunings to increase the performance of the MGTD well above what the Mark II achieved.

The Follow-on of the MGTDProduction of the MGTD peaked in 1952 and 1953 found sales of the car starting to fall. Again the MG Car Company found itself in need of a whole new automobile but without the support of the parent BMC Organization.

The MG EX175John Thornley's team at Abingdon had crafted a complete replacement for the MGTD code named the EX175. Because of the organizational changes that occurred when BMC took control of the MG Car Company, the EX175 was in direct competition to it's new step cousin, the Austin-Healey 100. Since the Healey was already committed, BMC did not want a new fangled MG to dilute the possible sales so MG was left high and dry without a replacement for the MGTD.

MGTF, MGTF 1500 and MGAAn effort to recapture the marketplace by doing what they had successfully done before was attempted in 1953. Borrowing on the success of the MGTD and Mark II as well as a little streamlining of the body, the MG Car Company created the MGTF. The TF was immediately shunned by the public. It was clear that all MG had done was to pound a bit on the body and fenders, add some more comfortable bucket seats, and throw on some wire wheels. In fact the car was worse in many ways because you could not easily get to the engine to modify it or maintain it like you could on prior T types. The TF 1200 still performed poorly compared to other sports cars of the period. In 1955 MG came out with a more powerful 1500 cc engine that replaced the tiring 1250 cc engine of past T Series cars. Finish information on the MGTF can be found at this page. For more information on the MGTF please see these pages. This larger capacity engine did improve the performance greatly and made the MGTF 1500 a much better performing car on the freeways and tollways of North America. Still the MGTF never captured the success of the MGTD and was replaced by the MGA within two short years. The MGA represented a significant change from the T-Series cars and actually looked like it belonged to the era it was produced in. It supported much of the same chassis and drive train features as the MGTF but had an all new streamlined body. Interestingly the car had a remarkable resemblance to the EX175. Over time MG would make many changes to the MGA in both styling, performance and handling. At one point they even offered a hard top, called the MGA Coupe as well as a twin cam engine.

This section covers the finishes of the MGTD in type, material, and colors. Note: It is generally not considered a deviation from the original if you improve the finish of an item so long as you do not change the texture or characteristic of that item.

MGTD Color SchemesTop The table below shows all the body and interior colors available during the production of the MGTD. The radiator grill slats generally matched the interior color. Note: You may click on the from an original brochure. Body Black image to see a sample of this color scheme

Color Interior Color Dates Red Green Beige 19491953 19491953 19491951, 1953 19491953

Comments

MG Red

Red

Beige Autumn Red Woodland Green-BRG Red Beige Green

19491951, 1953 1951 1951 19491953 19491951, 1953 1951 19491951 19491953 19491953 ? 19491951 1951 1951 19521953

On red and green cars the grill color for tan interiors could be either tan or the body color.

Beige Almond Green Green Beige Ivory Red Green Clipper Blue Red Beige Sunburst Bronze Silver Streak Grey Red Green Red

On red and green cars the grill color for tan interiors could be either tan or the body color.

Replaced by Silver Streak Grey Metallic Metallic Metallic. Replaced Clipper Blue

Date information used with permission from Original MG T Series by Anders Clausager. Published by MBI Publishing Company 1-800-826-6600. Only on non exported cars. Note: The colors in this table are approximate. Due to the nature of each computer display and the limits of the color pallet of your system, there may be a large difference between these colors and the actual production colors. Note: Apparently MG did not have strict formulas or consistent suppliers for their finishes, so even during the production of the T-Series there would be large discrepancies between cars of the same color. The cars were also not documented with their color on an ID plate. This practice did not start until the MGTF model in late 1953.

Note: CKD cars were delivered with primer only. This was also available as an orderable option so any paint color is original on one of these cars. Note:The exterior piping (cord filled fabric material between sheet metal parts) color matched the body paint color.

Paint FormulasTop

Body ColorsThis table provides a list of formulas or color equivalents to the original colors used for the MGTD. As always you should have a quart (or gallon) of paint mixed first and spray it on a large piece of sheet metal before you decide what color you like. Even better is to get a few quarts of paint and give your car a quick paint job before restoration to make sure you like the color. When you are satisfied with the color choice then you can strip all the paint off and start over. Sounds crazy, but at least you will like the results. If you have a car that has never been stripped of its' paint you may be able to tell what color it was originally by taking off a fender and looking at the area that rested against the body bucket. I was not only able to do that but after the use of a little rubbing compound the paint was in good enough shape in those areas that a color match was done after 25 years of service. The color was compared to other cars painted the same color to insure that I had a reasonable match.

Manufacture Black MG Red

Silve Autumn Woodland Almond Clipper Sunburst Ivory Strea Blue Bronze Red Green Green Grey

Color BMC Code BK1 Dupont Ditzler (PPG) R&M MartinSenour 99 9000 71993 RD14 RD6 GN29 GN37 YL5 BU14 N/A

GR25

9393-98249 939383449 83450H 6606 96233H 25888 50930 2246 43342 44159 81271 12297 23662

72030 33676

A946 BM121R BM108R BM078 25011 20216 20561(?)

BM076 BM127 BM042 20214 25235 25286 23235?

BM02

25280

Note: The colors in this table are approximate. Due to the nature of each computer display and the limits of the color pallet of your system, there may be a large difference between these colors and the actual production colors.

Note: Match red or green grills with body color. When body is not red or green then use MG Red or Almond Green as appropriate.

Miscellaneous ColorsThis table provides colors for the non body components of the MGTD. Note: Many of the colors in this table are approximate and not absolute. But then again, even in the production of the MGTD non of the colors were absolute either, so these are all reasonable choices.

Manufacture Chassis

Tecalemit Purolato Hood Instrument Oil Filter Engine / Oil Filter Oil Filte Sidecurtain Panel Early Transmission 2,3 (metallic)3 (metalli Frame (metallic)

Color Dupont Ditzler R&M 99 9000 A946 57597H 50930 AC402 BM145 M63-64 FM130 44371 43107LH 43094L

I like to use Dupont Imron due to it's superior finish and longevity. The original finish on the chassis parts was a semi gloss enamel. Close engine and instrument panel (220-530) paint colors can be obtained from such suppliers as Moss Motors. I believe that the TD instrument panel was the same darker color as the late oil filter canister. The popular color is widely accepted to be the same as the TF instrument panel. The paint supplied by Moss Motors is lighter than original for the MGTD.3

The color of the valve cover is controversial. Generally it is most widely accepted to be the same as the wheels, a metallic gray. Other evidence suggests that it is a pale green/gray non metallic as shown. This is the same color that early TC engines and firewalls were painted. I like to use a metallic soft green/gray paint which is a good compromise and believed by some to be correct also. This is also an acceptable color for the Purolator filter canister although it was a bit darker in shade. There was a tendency to coat the valve color with clear paint, after repainting it silver, that often turned greenish. For this reason many feel that it was never greenish to begin with, but just silver. Al Moss (who serviced TD's when new) reports that the valve cover and wheels were originally painted with plain silver paint, non glossy. Similar to the finish you would get out of a spray can today.4

If you would like to see an unrestored TF valve cover then press here. Care of Don Harmer.

5

This is an Imron color and the metallic effect is much stronger than original.

Sheet Metal FinishesTop The following table describes the finishes on the sheet metal of the MGTD. Item Color Comment

Both sides of these items were Fenders, hood, front and rear painted with the body color of the splash aprons, running boards, Body car. The exception would be the firewall, fuel tank, fuel tank straps, Color inside of the toolbox which was door hinges black covered by an off-white felt. Fuel tank sides Note that the fuel tank side panels Body had the edges chrome plated. Only Color the interior of the outside finish was painted the body color. Body color on exterior finishes, black on inside finishes. Note that the black paint was not glossy but a Body semigloss or satin finish. Used as a Color protective coating more than a shiny finish like the color coat. Note that on some cars the inside of the panels were painted the body color.

Body bucket, doors, tool box lid (outside)

Scuttle, side curtain box, steering wheel column and steering wheel Black extruder plate, propeller shaft

tunnel, gearbox cover and plate, hinge for seat back, sleeve for seat hinge, rear cross brace assembly (behind seat), crank clips on seat back, inside of toolbox. Headlamp bodies, headlamp ring Note that on early TD's (50 and 51) Body retaining screw, King of the Road the headlamp bodies were chrome Color medallion plated.

Engine and TransmissionTop See the note on Gold Seal engines. Item Color Comment This color was similar to MG red but a little darker.

Engine block, head, tappet Engine inspection cover, water outlet Red manifold, oil pan, timing chain

cover, cradle, bearer plate, transmission housing and cover, oil pump housing, main pulley, water pump, water branch pipe, throttle return spring clip, front motor mount bracket Breather pipe and clamp Inlet manifold Exhaust manifold, manifold clamps Engine Red Engine Red Some cars may have had this painted black. Some cars may have had this painted black.

This is a spray of liquid aluminum that gives the appearance of a Aluminized white, softly textured surface. Very hard to keep clean. Black Some like to cad plate the nuts and expander but they were all black.

Engine stabilizer and bracket Valve cover

Light GraySee comments above Green These were through away elements. There is a decal that went on these parts. Cast element housings were an add on. A slightly darker color than the instrument cluster/steering wheel center color. Used on some later cars. Noted by the large attaching bolt and capped plate at rear of the filter. They had no identifying plate as on the Tecalemit filters, but were decorated with a decal naming the company and listing the maintenance procedures.

Oil canister - old style

Orange

Oil canister - newer style 1952 Bronze (Tecalemit) Part number I62451

Oil canister - newer style 1952 Light (Purolator) Part number SilverI62429 Green

Air cleaner, starter, generator body, fan blades

Black This is a controversial item. Many believe that this was painted the same color as the engine but replacement parts were black. Others believe that it was assembled as a unit with the radiator and therefore black. All the pictures that I have are not

Black or Thermostat body, upper hose Engine elbow Red

clear on this as they are in shadow. Generator fan/pulley, distance Engine piece Red Engine block drain, oil drain, engine ID plate Natural Brass Engine Red Most believe these to be red but some claim they were black. Some paint this the engine color. The ID plate should be left natural but on original cars the drains were most likely painted red. Many like to leave the brass ends natural. Most likey all red from factory. Note that some of these parts were blued and not painted black. Bluing is a metal treatment that has a black, transparent type of look to it. It is very common on firearms.

oil line - block to head

Carburetor parts: choke coupler, jet links, springs, couplings, anchor clips

Black

Most carburetor parts (see exceptions elsewhere), air cleaner wing nut, transmission dipstick cover wing nut, carburetor overflow lines, Natural generator lubricator, tachometer reduction gearbox, crank handle, distributor body, oil pressure gauge line and brass coupling on firewall

Many like to polish these unfinished parts for an enriched look.

Carburetors, fuel pump base sections

Polishing these items makes for a very nice effect but was not originally done. If you do polish these parts it is recommend that Natural you spray the carburetor body Aluminium with a clear sealer because it will be impossible to keep the polish up after the carburetor is assembled. Natural Brass parts left natural. Again polishing and coating with a clear paint will preserve the shine of these parts.

Fuel pump and carburetor fittings Exhaust pipe bracket, clamp and spacer on transmission Gearbox remote linkage

Black Natural

Chassis

Top Item Color Comment It appears that the green and red were the same as the red and green body colors. If you do not have a red or green car, and your interior is not tan, then choose the MG Red or Almond Green as the grill color appropriately. The color that matched tan interior was a light tan color. It is reported that on some red or green cars with tan interiors, the grill slats could be painted the body color. Note See the comment on the Mark II's. Note most people prefer to use a high gloss paint for all the chassis parts in current restorations because of its look and durability. It is not recommended to finish the radiator fins with a heavy based enamel. Optionally you may first paint the fins with a heat based (exhaust type) flat black finish and then paint the rest of the radiator with a high gloss finish. The original was painted with a very thin coat of satin gloss black paint. Some late TD's with Armstrong shocks were left unpainted for the body with the shock arms painted black. Al Moss reports that the valve cover and wheels were originally painted with plain silver paint, non glossy. Similar to the finish you would get out of a spray can today. Most today paint the exhaust system with modern heat paint. Originally painted with chassis paint which undoubtedly burnt off in days.

Radiator grill slats

Interior Color

Frame, suspension parts, rear end, brake drums, brake lines, springs, shocks and all chassis parts.

Satin (soft mat) Black

Radiator

Satin (soft mat) Black Satin (soft mat) Black Silver

Shock absorbers

Wheels

Exhaust pipes, exhaust pipe brackets

Black

WoodworkTop Item Floorboards, shelf behind seat Color Black Comment Made of mahogany plywood.

Dash

Covered in interior cloth (Rexine)

Same material as seat backs and door panels Made of mahogany plywood.

Battery box underliner Black Wooden panel behind Black fuel tank

Note: All woodwork with the exception of the firewall mounting frame was painted black. This was often oversprayed when the body was painted.

Interior/SoftgoodsTop Item Color/Material Comment Died to match vinal cloth interior. Used where wear and tear would be a factor. Slightly textured precursor to vinyl. Note that the wheel wells were padded with a thin felt. Also on some cars the wooden area that the spare tire bolts go through received some light padding. There was a small length of black vinal that was tacked to the wood floor behind the seats that covered the ends of the wheel wells. This material was folded over at both edges to form a inch wide strip. It started in the back corner and went forward over the edge. It then turned the corner to the outside of the car and terminated at the panel. It was affixed to a small tack strip. The tack strip is held to the wheel well by three small rivets. Also to note that the piping from the rear at the hood tack strip, down under the doors and along the dash top, was all one piece. This material was similar to the piping used on the fenders. At the location of the door strikers the piping was opened up and the spline was removed to allow clearance for the door striker. The striker underplates had holes

Seat tops and outside bottoms, Leather seat back face, top of map pocket, top of door piping

All door panels, kick panels, seat backs and rears, boot area

vinyl cloth (Rexine)

in them to allow for tacking the piping in place. You will see a tacking hole in the inner metal plate for the door latch to tack the bead down. On many cars the hidem that was used to hide the tacks on the panels was in one piece. This means that the panels were put in place at one time as the hidem continued from one panel to the next. This is especially evident from the front kick panel to the door sill panel. The door panels, the panel under the door, and the panel around the rear wheel arch are a three ply plywood about 2-3 mm thick. The panel in front of the doors is a about a 2 mm thick piece of black cardboard so it will bend over the "scuttle" hoop. Besides being tacked on around the door, there are two small chromed wood screws with finish washers at the front to hold the front panel on. The hidem is one continuous piece from the door latch to where the rear panel and the panel below the door meet. There is a short piece of hidem from the door latch to the top of the front pannel. The rear pannel's hidem is sewn on also, but it is not contiuous with the hidem of the two other panels. The trim panels are long enough to go clear to bottom and meet the main wood beam across the bottom of the car. The floor boards are cut slightly narrow on the outside to allow room for the trim panels. Black vinyl (Rexine) There was a whole under the clock large enough for a hand to fit through to allow the clock to be reset. Panel was made of hard fiberboard (similar to cardboard and the same material as the glovebox).

Dash underpanel

Glovebox Interior Tonneau cover, top, side curtains

Brown flock like Must have been sprayed on. coating Tan canvas Similar to light tent material. Side curtain windows were made of celluloid and

yellowed immediately. Side curtain nuts were painted tan. Toolbox Side curtain box Gear lever gaiter Steering column excluder White woolen felt Black woolen felt Leather Tan leather Carpets were untrimmed. The carpet under the seats was separate from the carpet in front of the seats. There was no carpeting behind the seats, over the rear end. Under the arch of the seat back, covering the emergency brake cables, was a piece of cardboard covered by carpet with the front edge bound in black Black short hair leather (black Rexene is also wool acceptable). Under the drivers feet was stiched a rubber mat. The drivers side on LHD cars starting in the 1951 model year had a rubber footwell with the MG crest. This was sewn into the carpet through a recess about halfway from the edge. On some cars a leather patch was sewn onto the transmission tunnel to prevent wear from the accelerator foot. Could either be black or interior color.

Carpets

Brightwork and ChromeTop Item Headlamp bodies, headlamp adjusting nuts, headlamp rings, headlamp ring retaining screw, King of the Road medallion Headlamp bracket to radiator Radiator hose clamps, air cleaner clamps, steering excluder clamp, headlamp bracket to radiator bracket bolts and nuts Color Chrome Comment Note that on later TD's (late 51, 52 and 53) the headlamp bodies were painted the body color. Some cars have this body color or black Zinc plating is often used as a substitute for Cadmium today. Some headlamp bracket bolts may have been chromed or painted body color. Note that etched writing or background on nickeled items were painted black. Plates were made of brass. Plates held in place with brass round headed slotted screws with square nuts. Air cleaner manifold Some like to paint the Polished background of the MG Aluminium Logo red or black. Chrome Chrome Polished Chrome Chrome Only on late model Mark II's Brown MG on cream background. Late Mark II's had black MG on white background. Polished stainless steel Some like to paint the background of the MG Logo red or black. See note on hub cap medallions Background painted red.

Chrome

Cadmium

Oil cap, body plate, MG Car Co. plate, patent plate

Nickel Silver

Transmission dipstick, engine dipstick Hub caps Hub cap medallions Radiator shell, nose Radiator slats

Radiator medallion Fuel tank filler cap, bonnet hinge strip Fuel tank filler cap lever, tail light and

Chrome Polished Chrome

marker light screws, windscreen screws and nuts Splash pan x-screws and washers front Chrome and rear Bumpers, overriders, door knobs, door latches, side curtain clamps, side curtain nuts in door tops, seat back adjusters and brackets, fuel tank strap nuts, side lamps, windscreen parts and brackets, rear view mirror, tail lamp Chrome rings and bodies, rear license plate lamp cover, fuel tank side nuts and washers, dashboard edging, glove box hinges, bonnet handles, snaps and studs, side curtain strips, emergency brake handle and release button, gear shift lever Steering wheel medallion ring, horn base, lamp bezels, gauge bezels, horn push ring (early cars), starter and choke Chrome knob bases, steering column expandable cover The inside of the fuel tank sides were painted the body color with exposed edges in chrome

Fuel tank sides

Chrome

Tach cable, speedo cable, choke cable, starter cable, emergency brake cables, clutch cable housings, water temperature retainers on stabilizer rods, Cadmium bonnet latches (inside), seat runners, fuel lines (braided), wire harness retainer straps on rear frame tube, lug nuts, front wheel grease cap, starter switch Many like to use the "MG Car Company" threshold plates which were not original to TD's but to MGTA's. TD's had plain threshold plates. The threshold plates were held in place by slotted flat headed woodscrews. Some may have been brass.

Door threshold plates, running board strips

Polished

MiscellaneousTop Item Color Comment While most of the car was painted in pieces prior to assembly, there were a few exceptions. In some cases items were assembled and then overpainted with a color coat while others had bolts and fasteners hand painted after assembly. The firewall and body bucket were painted as an assembly which meant that the firewall bolts were painted the body color.

Firewall bolts, wood frame and caulking

Body Color

Crank, tonneau bar, crank clips, front license plate brackets, front license plate and clips, starter cable Black bracket on firewall, horns and brackets, passenger foot ramp, accelerator peddle assembly, fuel pump body Rear license plate brackets, Black

Crank handle was brass

Optionally can be color of body.

rear license plate lamp base Side curtain frames, top frame, side curtain nuts on frames Tan

Spare tire carrier, head lamp Body brackets, hood latch screw Color heads Fuel line Steering wheel center, steering wheel cap, and instrument panel Fuel tank strap bolt heads and washers, side curtain storage lid hinges Rear splash pan bolts and washers, instrument panel carriage bolts Black This was part of the chassis assembly and got painted black. Many today polish this with copper polish for a nice effect.

Bronze Interior color Black Many have these chrome or cad plated as they scratch so easily May have been treated to look black rather than painted. Hand painted to match interior color. Have also seen the side curtain storage lid hinges cad plated

Door checks, bonnet latch receivers on fenders, bonnet Black bumpers Water temperature tubing Windscreen wiper motor cover Windscreen "D" washer and locknut (under Acorn nut) Grease gun body Tools Wiring Harness Black Black wrinkle paint Polished Brass Blueing Black Black

Same type of finish found on firearms Black with two thread yellow tracer.

Nitty DetailsThe following items are the hardest to achieve for a person who is trying to create an absolutely original car. In a Concours d'Elegance these would be the items that could differentiate two winning cars. Some of these items will most likely be impossible to achieve but they are interesting goals to pursue if you want the ultimate in originality.

It may well be that there never was an original TD once it left the dealer showroom/lot, especially in the United States. It appears that modifying the car was one of the major features of the model. This is attested by all the accessories that were available at the time from dealers and parts suppliers such as Arnolt and others. Note: To see a picture of the detail item in a seperate window click on the icon. Item Engine number that matches body plate Size of front splash apron piping (smaller diameter than rest of exterior piping) Exhaust pipe diameter Original engine oil pan bolts Original soft metal tappet cover bolts Original flat gray windscreen wiper wire Rubber rear license plate lamp wire cover Correct battery (series, Lucas, vented caps) Cap style battery cable connectors at battery Black braided negative battery and starter cables Rubber starter switch (not nylon) and rubber boots Horn wire to battery cable clip Original spark plug wires (plastic coated black cloth braided wire) Original spark plug caps (black bakelite) Spark plug wire retainer at distributor (red fiberboard) Black painted bolts on valve N/A Check NOS at classic car parts shops Hardware store or automotive supply Abingdon Spares Moss Motors, Abingdon Spares, Rhode Island Wiring Services Rhode Island Wiring Services, The InPoint N/A Make it yourself by taking the cord out of a piece of the piping that you used on the rest of the body and replace it with a 1/4 inch diameter cord Source

cover Original black coil Correct dates (within a few months prior to car date) on starter, generator, and coil Braided and cloth covered wires and loom, black sheath with dual yellow tracer Correct (small diameter) braided fuel lines Wooden battery box liner Rubber pads between battery and battery clamp Correct profile dashboard attachment washers Double slotted temperature gauge conduit clips for radiator stabilizer tubes Radiator drain pipe Appropriate front rebound rubbers (short - late or tall early) ID plates finished in nickel silver Oil cap finished in nickel silver Correct oil cap chain covered in rubber tubing Etched 'Auster' windscreen emblem Correct nuts (fat) on windscreen frame Brass finished flat 'D' washer and lock nut on windscreen sideframe (under Acorn nut) Dunlop tires 5.50x15 Andrex shock absorbers on TD Mk II British Wire Wheel The rubber cover may not be original. Most people from the period have no memory of it. Moss Motors 408-730, 408-740 Moss Motors Moss Motors, 407-710 Local hardware store Moss Motors British Auto Electric

Rhode Island Wiring Services, The InPoint

Glass tail and side lamp lenses Lucas "Anchor" quartz iodine headlamps Wide topped bumpers No rubber packing on bumper overriders Front license plate with correct 'Z' brackets to bumper Original ignition switch with correct labeling (not the 'window' variety) Original tachometer and speedometer cables Original starter and choke cables Under dash cover in black Rexine Original interior materials (Rexine) Leather on map pocket tops and door piping, seat tops Correct number of pleats on seat cushions (6) with wider borders Correct holes on firewall (there were some empties, see manuals) Original top/tonneau materials Original half tonneau cover Correct radiator hoses (large hose pebble finish) Correct (thin and textured) radiator webbing strip Tapered rubber packing under headlamp arms to fenders. Not straight sided.

Moss Motors 157-908

N/A

While I do not know of a source for the switch,Abingdon Spares, has a decal for the labels. It is part number 39/2D. You can also retain the original facia and knob and marry it to a replacement body and switch.

Abingdon Spares, Moss Motors 451-795

Moss Motors, Abingdon Spares Moss Motors, Abingdon Spares

Moss Motors, Abingdon Spares

Abingdon Spares

Correct routing and copper carburetor overflow lines with clip on front engine plate Original hose clamps (radiator hoses, air cleaner, steering column) 'Mickey Mouse' air cleaner wing nut

This arcticle from Just Brits will show you how

Moss Motors 326-388

Original tan marbled steering wheel

I have not been happy with the reproduction units as I feel the color is too dark. If you have an old wheel you might want to check with Kimble Engineering, in the UK. They reportedly have the original mold tooling for the steering wheel and has them made in the original materials (even in the original city). Also note that I believe the centerpiece to be darker than what is generally accepted today. See finish details for more information and the attached image.

Original steering wheel center piece Plain door threshold plates Original width running board strips and rubber Original Karvel unbound carpeting Original transmission dipstick cover wing nut Mahogany marine plywood floorboards Tan leather steering wheel excluder at scuttle with correct clamp Sewn in rubber footwell with MG logo Painted interior color fuel tank strap bolt heads and washers Painted instrument faces rather than decals

Moss Motors 262-340

Moss Motors, Abingdon Spares

Moss Motors 454-040

N/A Vintage Restorations

Original flocked lined glove box Original tools and tool case Original hand crank with brass handle, clips on rear of seat back Original operation manual, workshop manual, parts catalog Original dealer brochures Original Factory Accessories Direction of and correct type of bolts and nuts (see manuals for guidance on positions)

Moss Motors 454-155 The In-Point and www.britishtool.com for reproductions Moss Motors 386-150

N/A

Note that depending on the Concours d'Elegance that you are attending, accessories that were available during the production run of the MGTD may or may not be acceptable. This varies from event to event, judge to judge.

Replacement Parts ReviewsWe are greatly in debt to the many parts suppliers the world over who provide replacement parts for the MG T-Series cars that we love. Sometimes new old stock parts are still available but this is the exception. Many times an original part can be repaired to function like new again. You might also find just the part you need from a swapmeet, on-line auction, or a fellow enthusiast. When

these options don't provide you with the original part that you need, you must resort to replacement parts. Many times the replacement parts are exactly as original. In this manner one could not tell the replacement part from a new original part. Unfortunately this is not always the case. Many times a substitution from an original part is all that is available. While I understand the business economics that creating an exact original replacement may not always justify the cost, I do support any vendor that goes out of their way to create as an original part as is possible. To that end I have created this list of replacement parts that I am aware of and how they compare to the original part they are attempting to replace. Grading: This grade is assigned to a part that A is virtually identical to the original part it is replacing. This grade is for a part that looks like a reasonable facsimile of the original part but there are minor B differences that a reasonably knowledgable enthusiast would notice from the original The assignment is for a part that looks similar to the original part but C is clearly different upon immediate inspection This classification is assigned to a part that functions in an equivalent D manner to the original but does not look original at all. This assignment is for a part that does not function or look like the F original part that it is attempting to replace.

Part Ignition Coil

Grade Number B+ 143-210

Vendor Moss Motors

Comment A good replacement for the original coil. My part was marked 9-48 for the date and the bottom end did

not match the rolled edge of the original. It also did not sport the Lucas name. While I have not seen these parts in person, the pictures do represent a reasonable replacement of the original tools. The tool roll may not be completely appropriate for the MGTD though. I prefer their MGA tool rolls for later TD's. For later TD's (late 52 and 53), the MGA tool roll may be a better replacement than the Inpoints standard TD/TC roll.

Tools and Tool Roll

A-

The InPoint

MGA Tool Roll

A

The InPoint

Battery

A

A great replacement for the original Abingdon battery even down to the ventilated Spares caps. This battery had the same dimensions and was made of similar material but did not have the correct top, lugs, and was embossed with the Moss Logo. Use the Abingdon Spares battery instead. A good imitation for the handle but they came with American nuts and threads. You will need to rethread these for BSF and add your own original nuts.

Battery

C

459-400

Moss Motors

Hood Latch Handles

A-

Moss Motors

Original style C luggage rack

While similar to the original factory rack there are three deviations. One is the addition of a bar at the top front that helps keep the luggage from moving forward Moss during hard stops. This was not on 244-500 Motors the original rack. A minor but 61 003A Abingdon noticeable deviation is the Spares elimination of two small loops in the rear bar that accommodated a belt or strap for securing the luggage. In addition the rack is made from a much lighter material than the original. 262-340 Moss Motors This part is essentially indistinguishable from the original. The only question comes from the

Steering wheel center A and

medallion

color. It is finished in the widely accepted lighter tan color. A good replacement part that is hard to tell from the original. May Abingdon want to have plated for a more Spares uniform look as some parts are plated brass and others stainless steel. These bumpers are similar to the original but not quite exact. Upon closer inspection you would notice that the profile on the original bumper has a shelf on the top side Moss or more projection. These Motors replacement bumpers have the Abingdon same projection on the top as the Spares bottom. Since it is almost impossible to find a original bumper in existence today I would probably expect that in a few years no one, including an expert, would be able to notice. These overriders generally appear Moss as original. I have noticed that they Motors are a bit wider at the top than Abingdon original overriders but that may be Spares in tolerance with the original parts. While this part is close to the original they forgot one important aspect. The original footwell was sewn into the carpet through a recess in the outer edge. This version does not have the recess. While the correct color the texture has a woven pattern to it rather than the traditional smooth felt like texture.

Windscreen wiper arms

A

735110 735111

Front and Rear Bumpers

B

Bumper Overrider

A

Rubber Footwell

B

Moss Motors

Toolbox Felt B

456-420

Moss Motors

Toolbox Felt C

While the correct color the texture Abingdon has small waffle pattern to it rather ASL5798 Spares than the traditional smooth felt like texture. The original rheostat was replaced by Lucas over 30 years ago with a model that has an extended knob. The original knob had a plain face and was about inch long. The replacement is about 1 inch long

Dash Light Rheostat

C

145-900

Moss Motors

and has an arrow on the face. Socket Set A 142-800 Moss Motors Moss Motors Looks like an exact replacement for the original dash plugs. Much thicker than original and different texture. The original was very thin (approx. 1/16 inch) and had a pebbled texture to the webbing. Similar to the originals at first inspection. One thing to look out for is to make sure that the castings you receive are symetrical. Mine were not. Might want to insist during the order that they are the same or you will charge them return shipping.

Radiator Webbing

B

280-010

Windshield A L/R Uprights

408-230 Moss 408-240 Motors

Plates, Etchings and DecalsIf your TD, like most others, has been refinished a number of times some of the little details may have been lost. In fact you may not even know they exist unless you have compared your car to another. The details I refer to in this section are found in the form of etchings and decals. These decals and etchings were part of plates from the MG Car Company or their suppliers. Some of these are available as replacement parts and offer good substitutes. Many of these parts are not available or perhaps just need to be restored. Within these pages I will describe these decals and etchings and provide a digital image of the item so you can create your own or restore the etching on your original part. I will also describe how you might go about the etching process or where you could have this done. The items that I deal with in these pages are:

Original Air Cleaner Decal Auster windscreen builders plate

Desmo rear view mirror logo Chassis I.D. plate Body I.D. plate Patent number plate Sidescreen builders plate Tecalemit oil filter plate (late TD) Engine ID Plate Oil filler cap Gas filler cap lever Radiator builders plate Made in England plate MG Car Company threshold plates

DecalsOriginal Air Cleaner DecalThis decal was affixed to the top of the smooth topped air cleaners. Note the image is not full size.

The Plate DetailsAuster Windscreen Builders PlateThe Auster windscreen builders plate was attached to the bottom frame member of the windscreen via two tiny round headed rivets. Make sure that this plate is on the inside of the vehicle as many times you find it on the outside of restored cars. This plate is unusual in that it is done in two colors. Bright red for the Auster bracketed by black decorations to the sides. This part is available from suppliers such as Moss Motors and Abingdon Spares but they did not etch the part. Instead they just silk screened the image onto a plate. If you want a more realistic copy then you will need to etch the image into the plate.

Desmo Rear View Mirror LogoThe original over the dash review view mirror that was used on the MGTD was supplied by Desmo. They included their logo on the back of the mirror

(towards the front of the car) at the top. The metal parts of the mirror where plated chrome.

Chassis I.D. PlateThe chassis ID plate designates your car and engine numbers. There are at least two different versions of this plate. Reproductions of this plate only support the early version and do not have the 2 on the TD/ that later cars had. You may need to add this etching to a reproduction plate. These plates were nickel and filled with black paint.

Body I.D. PlateThe body plate contained the body type and body number stamped into the surface. The plate itself was plated in nickel with filled letters in black. These can be obtained commercially.

Patent Number PlateThis plate was a little different in that it had a painted background (black) with raised patent numbers. The plate was done in nickel. You can obtain these commercially.

Sidescreen Builders PlateThis plate was attached to the right hand door's sidescreen at the top cross member. It sported a black background with natural raised lettering.

Tecalemit Oil Filter PlateThis plate was affixed to all Tecalemit filters (late TD's) and was photo etched. I do not have an easy way to restore this plate.

Engine ID PlateOctagonal plate with inner circle ring. Raised letters riveted to the engine block. Includes stamped engine number that is match on the chassis ID plate.

Oil filler CapEtched around the oil cap filler were popular brands (recommended by the factory?) of oil. This part was nickel plated with etched and black painted letters.

Gas filler Cap LeverThis one may have been stamped on but an etching may be a good facsimile just in case. Not painted to my knowledge but you could if you wanted more contrast. Most have this chrome plated.

Radiator Builders PlateFound on the upper right corner of the radiator core on the engine side. Painted with the core but you could treat it in brass and paint for an enhanced effect. Each plate carried a stamped serial number.

Another plate found on the tank top generally on the right hand side. These plates were soldered to the tank and painted black overall.

Note: These plates may be available in limited quantities. Please contact Jim Threadgill for more information.

Made in England PlateThis plate was put on some export cars. It was found on the left end of the tool box just below the band that the clasp is attached to. The plate was made of brass and etched with the MG logo in front with the words MADE IN ENGLAND along side it to the right. Not all export cars seem to posses this plate. Certainly if you do not have two little holes on the left end of your toolbox you probably are not a candidate. Finished in nickel and black paint.

MG Car Company Threshold PlatesOK. These are not original for TD's (MG TA's?) but everybody has them. These were not plated but were natural aluminium that was polished and filled with black paint.

Restoring EtchingsTo restore or create a reproduction you have to go through a few steps. First you must obtain an image of the original. This page should help you in that regard. Secondly you will need to create a mask and then etch the item. After this process you may need to have the item plated depending on it's original finish. And finally you will have to fill in the etching with paint to make it stand out (or conversely fill in the background). A few etchings were really a photo chemical coloration and are not really painted on (ex: Tecalemit oil filter plate). This article does not cover that process.

EtchingEtching is the process of removing a specified amount of material from an object by using acid or some sort of abrasive. Etching is generally done via some sort of mask either directly with an acid or using the mask to photochemically treat the material first. In the case of the MGTD many of the etchings were done over brass but other metals were used also. A very popular use of etching is in the creation of printed circuit boards. In fact you may find that process most useful to you. You can find a brief overview of the etching process at this site.

Warning: Anyone considering doing their own etching should realize that it is a fairly difficult and dangerous process and your results will not be guaranteed. I would suggest that you consider sending your part and mask template (image) to a professional when etching is required. If you do decide to try your own hand at etching you should experiment on like materials as the part you will be ultimately using. Also I do not recommend trying to deepen or re-etch existing parts, at least not by a layman. To restore etched parts requires a few basic steps. First you must thoroughly clean all of the parts to be treated. This includes removing any existing paint and/or plating. Plating will generally have to be removed at a plating shop. You will need some sort of mask that will indicate where the etching should/should not take place. One these pages I will attempt to provide you with images that you can use to generate your own etching masks from your computer printer. Generally the best way to mask your part is to create the mask with your computer. If you have a laser printer you can generate your mask directly otherwise you will have to first print your mask and then transfer the image to the mask material with a Xerographic copy machine. You can find photo generated mask material and instructions to make the mask here. Once the parts have been stripped and cleaned you can begin the etching process. Follow the instructions with your etching materials and mask. Be sure to take all the environmental and personal protection precautions because acid is very dangerous to you and the environment. See cautions above.

Resources for Etching

Photographic mask materials Etching process overview Etching Machinery & Supplies in the UK Etching resource for making plates etc. Brass name plate producer An example of etching brass from the model railroad hobby Nickel stripping and etching solutions

PlatingMost of the ID plates on the MGTD were nickel plated. Nickel differs from chrome plating in that chrome plating is usually done in three layers. The first being a layer of brass which provides a smooth uniform surface that can also be lightly polished if needed between the first and second platting. The next layer is nickel which gives it the silver look. Nickel has sort of a yellowish tinge to it. Nickel can oxidize like any silver and can turn dark yellow and even gray or black. It needs to be polished frequently to retain it's shine. Finally in chrome plating the third layer is actually the chromium. This is applied in a very thin, almost transparent layer. Its' main function is to protect the nickel from abrasion and tarnishing. It also gives chrome plating that characteristic bluish look.

To properly plate your etched parts just have them nickel plated, straight over the existing brass. Be careful that you do not have the plate overly polished first otherwise you may remove some of the etching and/or your plate will look to shiny and be confused with chrome plating, at least until it starts to tarnish.

PaintingMost of the etched parts were painted after the plating process. Some may have been silk screened or photo etched as reported above. For those plates that were painted here is how you can replace the paint. First it is important to realize that in some cases the paint provided a contrast for the letters and was actually used as a filler. In other cases the paint actually provided a dark background for the letters to rise above the background and stand out. In either case the principal is the same. You will need to put paint in the recessed or etched areas and leave the non etched areas to rise above for contrast. Start by making sure your plated etching is free from all grease and oil. Use a good grade of commercial painting pre cleaner or alcohol to clean the surface. Next obtain the correct color of paint, black in most cases, in a lacquer base. Lacquer based paints work best because they are easier to work with after the paint has cured. Do not use a primer! You will need to spray the entire area of the plate. A good tool for this would be an artist or hobby airbrush. Build up a good deal of paint because the next process will remove most of it. You will have to experiment a little from this point but the good news is that you can do this over and over again without hurting anything or seriously having to redo much work. The object at this point is to remove all the paint on the surface of the etching while still retaining the paint within the recesses. This will be easy to do on those plates where the etchings make up the text and figures. On the plates where the paint constitutes the body or background, this may be a little tougher. There are many techniques to remove the unwanted paint from your etchings. Each has it's own benefits and detriments. You might find one useful for one type of plate but totally inappropriate for another. Try them as you see fit.

Removing Paint with SolventThe easiest way to remove paint is through the use of a solvent. If you have used a lacquer type of paint then lacquer thinner is what you will use. Other types of paints may need another type of solvent. Use the solvent sparingly and remove as much of the paint on the larger areas as you can. For tools I like to use smooth cotton such as bed sheets wrapped in a mandrel or rod. I soak the cloth and then wrap it tightly around the rod. Then I carefully wipe this across the surface, removing a little paint each time. After each pass I would recommend you use a new piece of cloth or an unused portion of you cloth. Stop just sort of removing all the paint when you can see the raised

portion coming through. At this point you will follow up with the polishing technique described below. You can also use cotton swabs to carefully remove paint in stubborn areas. If you make a mistake and remove too much paint let the part dry for a while and then recoat again. You can concentrate your touch-up in those difficult areas and work it until you get the look you want.

Removing Paint with PolishThis technique is much slower than the solvent method but is less deliberate in the removal of the paint. Start with a hard surface such as a 12 inch square plate of glass or metal. It must be perfectly flat and smooth. Cover it with a piece of smooth cotton. You can experiment with bed sheets or cotton Tshirts. Make sure there are no wrinkles or creases. Using a fine hand polishing compound invert the plated piece and rub it over the hard surface covered with cloth. You will need to inspect the part many times during the operation to make sure you are only removing the paint that you need to. Press down firmly but evenly while rubbing. You may need to replace the cloth and/or add compound frequently as needed. When you get to a point that you can just see the image coming through you should switch to a car cleaner wax or a lighter compound. You may also use finer tools such as cotton swabs or your fingered covered in cloth to work smaller areas. Once you have removed all the unwanted paint then buff with a clean cloth. You may optionally coat your parts with clear to keep the nickel from tarnishing and to protect your painted areas from wear.

Engine FastenersHere is a list list of MGTD engine fasteners. The list includes original part numbers and replacement part numbers from Abingdon Spares and Moss Motors. Also included is a table of torque values for specified fasteners. This list was compiled by Dave DuBois, Stuart Lock and TA Terry.

BoltsSIZE LENGTH WRENCH ORIGINAL ABINGDON MOSS DESCRIPTION/USE QTY (INCH) SIZE P/N P/N P/N CAMSHAFT THRUST PLATECAMSHAFT 2 2BA3/16W THRUST PLATE BOLT ACTUALLY FOUND IN 2 ENGINES 1/8 W FAN TO PULLEY 4

50.80MM6 5/8 - 1MM

AAA2356

5 - 84

320130

5 - 0.75

1 9/16

AAA5213

7 - 23

320-

Mm 6 - 1MM 6 - 1MM 6 - 1MM 5/8 6 - 1MM 5/8 6 - 1MM 5/8 6 - 1MM 1 3/16W 3/16W 3/16W 3/16W 3/16W 3/16W UPPER REAR MAIN SEAL ROCKER COVER SIDE BOSSES OIL PICKUP TO BAFFLE 3 3 2 AAA6142 AAA6142 JA5117 JA5117 HP0405 ASL5853 3 - 12 3 - 12 3 - 169 3 - 173 3 - 167 3 - 161

120 320130 320130

BAFFLE TO SUMP 4 OIL PICKUP 1 COVER (LATE TD) OIL PICKUP TO 2 SUMP, DRILLED FOR SAFETY WIRE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER, DRILLED FOR SAFETY WIRE OIL PUMP TO BLOCK (EARLY TD) (LATE TD) 2

320150 320150

6 - 1MM 1

3/16W

AAA5792

5-8

6 - 1MM 2 5/8

3/16W

4 2

AAA5586

3 - 99

320160

6 - 1MM 3 5/16

3/16W

OIL PUMP TO BLOCK, DRILLED 2 FOR SAFETY WIRE 4 (EARLY TD) (LATE TD) OIL PUMP TO BLOCK, DRILLED 2 FOR SAFETY WIRE OIL GALLERY PLUGS FRONT BEARING PLATE TO BLOCK 5 2

AAA5586

3 - 99

320160

6 - 1MM 3 8 - 1MM 8 - 1MM 5/8 8 - 1MM 5/8

3/16W 3/16W 3/16W 3/16W

AAA3093 X22968 AAA5343 X15012

3 - 97 3-8 3 - 40 3 - 39

320170 328100 320260 320260 320900 321028 320260

TIMING CHAIN COVER TO FRONT 2 BEARING PLATE CAM BEARING DOWEL BOLTS ( DRILLED FOR SAFETY WIRE) CLUTCH TO FLYWHEEL ENGINE MOUNT CRADLE TO 2

8 - 1MM 5/8

3/16W

AAA5621

5 - 44

8 - 1MM 3/4 8 - 1MM 3/4

1/4W 1/4W

6 4

AAA5609 ASL5829

13 - 47 3 - 42

FRONT BEARING PLATE 8 - 1MM 3/4 1/4W GENERATOR ADJUSTING LINK GENERATOR MOUNTING BRACKET TO BLOCK 1 X15012 3 - 149 320260 320260 320260 320260

8 - 1MM 3/4

1/4W

2

CA1122

3 - 146

8 - 1MM 3/4

1/4W

CLUTCH CABLE 2 BRACKET TO SUMP (EARLY TD) OIL FILTER SUPPORT 3 BRACKET (EARLY TD) TIMING CHAIN COVER TO FRONT BEARER PLATE (2 2 BOLTS FROM REAR OF BEARER PLATE) WATER OUTLET ELBOW TO HEAD (TD) AIR CLEANER ELBOW TO CARBURETOR WATER PUMP (SHORT BOLT) SUMP TO BLOCK (CENTER BOLTS) SUMP TO TIMING CHAIN COVER (DEEP HEAD) WATER PUMP (LONG BOLT) REAR PLATE TO HEAD (* SCREW HEAD) 4

CA1122

13 - 31

8 - 1MM 3/4

1/4W

CA1122

USE 3 - 39

8 - 1MM 3/4

1/4W

CA1122

3 - 39

320260

8 - 1MM 7/8

1/4W

CA1258

3 - 132

320270 320270 320270 320270 320265 320625 323180 321048 320625 320-

8 - 1MM 7/8 8 - 1MM 7/8 8 - 1MM 7/8 8 - 1MM 7/8 8 - 1MM 1 8 - 1MM 1 8 - 1MM 1 8 - 1MM 1 8 - 1MM 1 1/8

1/4W 1/4W 3/16W 3/16W 1/4W * 1/4W 1/4W 3/16W

4 1 10 2 1 4

CA1258 CA1258 LA7431 AAA5340 JA5052

3 - 62A 7 - 27 3 - 74 3 - 73 7 - 28 3 - 50

BELL HOUSING TO 10 ENGINE BOTTOM GENERATOR MOUNTING SUMP TO BLOCK 2 2

JA5052 X22853 AAA5341

3 - 58 3 - 153/157 3 - 75

(DEEP HEAD SLOTTED - REAR 2 BOLTS) 8 - 1MM 1 1/4 13MM GUDGEON PIN CLAMP BOLTS 4 (ORIGINAL BOLTS HAD 1/4W HEADS) TIMING CHAIN COVER TO ENGINE 3 CA1009 5 - 17

615

320890 320300 320310

8 - 1MM 1 7/8

1/4W

AAA5286

3 - 36

8 - 1MM 2

1/4W

TIMING CHAIN COVER TO 2 ENGINE (2 LOWER BOLTS)

AAA5231

3 - 35

8 - 1MM 2 1/4

ROD BIG END BOLTS (WITH 13MM1/4W SELF LOCKING 8 NUTS) (DRILLED FOR COTTER PIN) 1/4W 5/16W ROCKER TOWER 4

AEF123

5 - 15

320880 320330 320510

8 - 1MM 3 5/16 10 1.5MM 10 1.5MM 10 1.5MM 10 1.5MM 12 1.5MM 3/4

AAA5670

5 - 57

CARBURETOR TO 4 MANIFOLD FLYWHEEL TO CRANKSHAFT, DRILLED FOR SAFETY WIRE STARTER TO BLOCK ROCKER TOWER 4 AAA5609 13 - 61

7/8

3/8W

321108 320510

1 3

5/16W 5/16W

2 4 AAA5692 5 - 58

320530 433450

7/8

5/8W

CRANKSHAFT PULLEY 1 BOLT/STARTING DOG (CAN USE 1 1/8 SAE WRENCH)

AAA5279

5 - 30

12 1.5MM

1

TIMING GEAR TO CAMSHAFT (SOME 3/8W19MM BOLTS COME 1 WITH THIS LARGER HEAD) ENGINE BREATHER PIPE 1 CLAMP BOLT (SOME OF THESE MAY BE 6 - 1MM)

AAA5788

5 - 35

320670

1/4 - 26 BSF

1 1/4

3/16W

CA1263

USE 23 125

320200

1/4 - 20 W

1 3/8

1/4W

DISTRIBUTOR CLAMP PINCH BOLT (EARLY TD)

1 320360 320360 322510

5/16 -22 3/4 BSF 5/16 -22 3/4 BSF 5/16 - 18 5/8 W 3/8 - 20 BSF 4

1/4W

CLUTCH RETURN SPRING BRACKET 1 TO SUMP AIR CLEANER TO CARBURETOR (TD 4 MKII) TOP GENERATOR MOUNTING BOLT 1 (5/16 - 18 SAE BOLT FITS) OIL FILTER HOUSING 1

AJG6255Z 13 - 22

1/4W

23-185

1/4W

3H2092

3 - 151

5/16W

300852

3 - 197

StudsSIZE 61MM 81MM 81MM 81MM 81MM 81MM LENGTH ORIGINAL ABINGDON MOSS WRENCHSIZE DESCRIPTION/USE QTY (INCH) P/N P/N P/N 1 7/8 N/A TAPPET COVER STUDS WATER OUTLET ELBOW TO THERMOSTAT HOUSING STUD LONG WATER PUMP STUD SHORT WATER PUMP STUD MANIFOLD TO HEAD ROCKER COVER STUDS 3 AAA5595 3 - 16 328730 328750 328750 328760 328770 328810 328808 328780 328830

1 1/4

N/A

2

CB1717

3-31

1 7/8 1 3/4 4 5 1/4

N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A

1 1 4 2

X20167 JB5969 AAA5773 AAA5552 QA11791

3 - 30 3-31 3 - 47 3 - 46 3 - 121

10 2 1.5MM 10 1 1/2 1.5MM 10 4 3/8 1.5MM 12 3 1/8 1.5MM

CARBURETOR TO MANIFOLD STUDS 4 (TD MKII) EXHAUST FLANGE 3 TO MANIFOLD STUDS HEAD TO BLOCK STUDS MAIN BEARING CAP TO BLOCK 10 6

N/A N/A N/A

X15126 AAA5512 LA7104

3 - 62A 3 - 13 5 - 85

STUDS

PlugsSIZE LENGTH WRENCH ORIGINAL ABINGDON MOSS DESCRIPTION/USE QTY (INCH) SIZE P/N P/N P/N 3/15W CENTER OIL GALLERY PLUG FRONT OIL GALLERY PLUG (*SCREW HEAD, STEEL) REAR OIL GALLERY PLUG (*SCREW HEAD, BRASS) OIL PUMP BODY PLUG (LATE TD) 1 X20247 3-9 328020

10 N/A 1.5MM 12 5/16 1.5MM

*

1

X22732

65 - 57

12 9/16 1.5MM 12 N/A 1.5MM 12 N/A 1.5MM 12 N/A 1.5MM 21 1MM -14 BSP N/A N/A

*

1

X15393

65 - 57

328030

5/16W 5/16W 5/16W 9/16W 1/2W

1

163138 10798 10798 AAA5628 AAA2599

3 - 212 3 - 215 3 - 215 3 - 111 3 - 68 328120

OIL PUMP COVER 2 SUMP OIL PICKUP 1 PORT PLUG RELIEF VALVE CAP (CAN USE 1" SAE WRENCH) SUMP OIL DRAIN PLUG 1 1

NutsSIZE 81MM 81MM LENGTH WRENCH ORIGINAL ABINGDON MOSS DESCRIPTION/USE QTY (INCH) SIZE P/N P/N P/N N/A 1/4W WATER PUMP STUD NUT WATER OUTLET ELBOW TO THERMOSTAT HOUSING STUD FRONT ENGINE MOUNT CRADLE TO FRONT BEARING PLATE 2 CA1126 3 - 51 311100 311100

N/A

1/4W

2

CA1126

USE 3-51

81MM 8-

N/A N/A

1/4W 1/4W

4

CA1126 CA1126

3 - 43 3 - 66

311100 311-

MANIFOLD CLAMP 4

1MM

NUT ROD BIG END CAP BOLT NUT (ORIG. CASTELLATED 1/4W13MM 8 FOR COTTER PIN) ( SELF LOCKING TYPE) 5/16W 5/16W HEAD STUD NUT 10

100

81MM

NA

AEF131

5 - 16

311080

10 N/A 1.5MM 10 N/A 1.5MM 12 N/A 1.5MM

AAA5208 CA1605

3 - 56 3 - 63

311200 311200 311270

EXHAUST FLANGE TO MANIFOLD NUT 3 (BRASS) MAIN BEARING CAP STUD NUT 6 (CASTELLATED FOR COTTER PIN) ENGINE BREATHER PIPE CLAMP BOLT NUT 1 (SOME OF THESE MAY BE 6 - 1MM) DISTRIBUTOR COTTER BOLT NUT (LATE TD) 1

7/16W

AEF199

5-5

1/4 26 BSF

N/A

3/16

CA1254

USE 23 425

311050

1/4-26 N/A BSF 1/4 20 W 3/8 20 BSF

3/16W

CA1254

311050

N/A

1/4W

DISTRIBUTOR CLAMP PINCH 1 BOLT NUT (EARLY TD) CLUTCH LINKAGE FULCRUM PIN NUT 2 (CASTELLATED FOR COTTER PIN) AAA5802 13 - 26 311240

N/A

5/16W

MiscellaneousSIZE LENGTH WRENCH ORIGINAL ABINGDON MOSS DESCRIPTION/USE QTY (INCH) SIZE P/N P/N P/N BYPASS ELBOW TO THERMOSTAT HOUSING 2 (*SLOTTED CHEESE HEAD SCREW) DISTRIBUTOR LOCK BOLT 1

2BA 3/4

*

AJD320

7-66

323040

87/8 1MM

1/4W

AAA5212

35 - 93

433530

(EARLY TD) 1/426 N/A BSF 3/820 N/A BSF 1/8 N/A BSP 1/8 1 BSP 1/4 1 1/8 BSP N/A DISTRIBUTOR COTTER BOLT (LATE TD) 1 AAA2776 35 - 90 433540 190390 434240 435465 435490 435480

N/A 3/16W

CLUTCH LINKAGE 2 FULCRUM PIN BLOCK WATER DRAIN TAP OIL PIPE BLOCK TO HEAD BANJO BOLT (EARLY TD) (LATE TD) 1

X23049 3H2724 X21021 AAA5550

13 - 27 3 - 14 3 - 115A 3 - 115

5/16W

2

1/2W

FILTER TO BLOCK OIL PIPE (EARLY 3 TD)

X19089

3 - 86

Torque Values for XPAG EnginesEngineDescription GUDGEON PIN CLAMP BOLT ROD BIG END BOLTS MAIN BEARING CAP NUTS CLUTCH PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS OIL PICKUP PIPE TO SUMP BOLTS CAMSHAFT SPROCKET BOLT TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER BOLTS SUMP TO BLOCK BOLTS TIMING CHAIN COVER BOLTS CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT CYLINDER HEAD NUTS ROCKER TOWER BOLTS (8 MM) ROCKER TOWER BOLTS (10 MM) OIL PUMP TO BLOCK BOLTS Torque 25 LBFT 25 LBFT 63 LBFT 19 LBFT 6 LBFT 50 LBFT 6 LBFT 19 LBFT 19 LBFT 50 LBFT 50 LBFT 16 LBFT 43 LBFT 6 LBFT

FLYWHEEL TO CRANKSHAFT BOLTS 50 LBFT

CAMSHAFT LOCATING PLATE BOLTS 6 LBFT

Other

Description WATER PUMP PULLEY NUT GENERATOR PULLEY NUT REAR AXEL HUB NUT FRONT AXEL HUB NUT WHEEL LUG NUTS

Torque 10 LBFT 35 LBFT 170 - 200 LBFT 40 - 70 LBFT 50 LBFT

TRANSMISSION OUTPUT FLANGE NUT 65 LBFT

Lucas Spotlight Codes

SFT 576 S stands for spigot fixing, found on chrome lamps. FT indicates flat topped beam, which I would guess equates to fog lamp. 576 indicates a 5.76in reflector. SLR S equals spigot fixing again. LR indicates long range. CFT or CLR indicates it was designed for a commercial vehicle, and originally had a black body.