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I
COMPARISON OF DIFFERENT LEVELS OF PRODUCT
DEVELOPMENT & MARKER MAKING
A dissertation submitted in partial Fulfillmentof the requirement for the award of Degree
in
Master of Fashion Technology (ApparelProduction)
Submitted By
GEETIKA VARSHNEYA
MANOJ KUMAR PARAS
Under the Guidance of
MS. SHEWTA JAIN
Department of Fashion TechnologyNational Institute of Fashion Technology,
Bangalore
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II
May, 2009
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ABSTRACT
Product development and marker making are most crucial processes of the garment
manufacturing. Even a small mistake at this point can lead to be cause of million rupees loss
for the export house/manufacturer. All precautions should be taken at this point of time, to
avoid further problems. In product development the most important is accuracy, quality & fit
of the garment. There are different ways by which garment can be prepared or graded to
different sizes. This can be done manually or by using softwares. Use of software involves
high amount investment but the advantage is that it makes the work faster & accurate.
Manually the process can be performed but time taken will be more although investment is
less. So each level of technology has merits as well as demerits. Many companies are using
CAD only for grading as they believe masters are having good experience, so they can make
patterns better in terms of shape of the garment. Though there is tendency to adopt high
level technology but still there is resistance either due to high investment or by operators/
masters due to fear of job loss. There is need to realize the benefits of using technology
because one time investment will lead to great profits in future. There should be flexibility
in technology so that as the style changes operator can easily make changes in style or
measurements instead of making it again & again. Product development constitutes a major
portion of the total lead time. This is because at this buyers approval is very important at
each point. So merchandiser needs to send samples after every stage. This takes a
substantial amount of time. By using the advanced technology the patterns can be sent
directly via computers and fit/drape can be seen by the use of e-fit. With the increasing
convergence of technologies, CAD has evolved into an integrated environment that drives
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the entire industry. No longer serving just design or production functions within the
industry, CAD is becoming an integral part of the industry. IT intervention has bring out
significant profits in terms of fabric saving & time reduction. Now a days Most of the
garment manufacturer are adopting software for different purposes of product development
and marker making. In the future also intervention of IT in different process of garment
manufacturing will increase.
Keywords: CAD, Product Development, Marker Making, Automation, Garment industry.
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CERTIFICATION
This is to certify that this Project Report titledComparison of different levels of product
development & Marker makingis based on our, Geetika Varshneya and Manoj Kumar
Paras original research work, conducted under the guidance of Ms. Shweta Jain, Assistant
Professor, Department of Fashion Technology, NIFT, Bangalore towards partial
fulfillment of the requirement for award of the Masters Degree in Fashion
Technology(Apparel Production), of the National Institute of Fashion Technology,
Bangalore.
No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material, wherever borrowed
has been duly acknowledged.
Date:Geetika Varshneya
Manoj Kumar Paras
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
For the successful completion of the research project, we would like to thank Ms. Shweta
Jain (Assistant professor, Department of Fashion Technology, NIFT, Bangalore) our
project mentor guide, for her constant support, encouragement and guidance throughout the
project.
We would like to thank National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bangalore to provide a
great platform and opportunity in Garment industry to accomplish this project successfully.
We also take the opportunity to thank Dr. A.K.Khare (Chairperson, Department of Fashion
Technology), Ms. Shipra Sharma (CC, M.FTech, Department of Fashion Technology, NIFT,
Bangalore), Ms. Jonalee Das Bajpyee (CC,B.FTech, Department of Fashion Technology,
NIFT, Bangalore) and other faculty members for giving us support throughout this project.
We are also grateful to Mr. Ravi Kapoor (Managing Director, Tukatech Inc., Gurgaon), Mr.
Ajay Malkoti (Product development Manager, Tukatech Inc., Gurgaon) and all other
members of Tukatech Inc., Gurgaon for their help and support.
We would like to extend our sincere thanks to libraries of NIFT Delhi & NIFT Bangalore
for providing us resources for our project.We would also like to thank our friend Mr.
Pradeep Kumar(Trainer, IISASTR) Delhi for his support.
Geetika VarshneyaManoj Kumar Paras
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CONTENTS
ABSTRACT ..............................................................................................................................I
Certification ............................................................................................................................III
Acknowledgement ..................................................................................................................IV
Contents ...................................................................................................................................VList Of Figures ......................................................................................................................VII
CHAPTER-1 ............................................................................................................................. 1
Introduction ...............................................................................................................................2CHAPTER-2 ............................................................................................................................. 6
Review OF Literature ............................................................................................................... 7
2.1 Product development in garment manufacturing ............................................................72.2 Need for advancement in product development process ................................................9
2.3 Manual product development & marker making ..........................................................10
2.4 Semi automatic product development & marker making .............................................112.5 Automatic product development & marker making .....................................................11
2.6 High level technology in product development & marker making ..............................122.7 Scope for advancement in product development ..........................................................15
2.8 Factors influencing investment in the advanced methods of product development ....162.9 Hidden costs involved in advanced methods of product development .........................17
CHAPTER-3 ...........................................................................................................................19
Methodology ...........................................................................................................................203.1 Research design ............................................................................................................20
3.2 Research process step ...................................................................................................20
3.3 Components of research design ....................................................................................21CHAPTER-4 ...........................................................................................................................28
Findings & analysis ................................................................................................................29
4.1 Type of business ..........................................................................................................304.2. Level of technologies ...................................................................................................314.3 Production .....................................................................................................................32
4.4 Product details .............................................................................................................. 33
4.5 Fabric details .................................................................................................................344.6 Marker efficiency ..........................................................................................................37
4.7 Time taken ...................................................................................................................40
4.8 Virtual Prototyping (e-fit) .............................................................................................454.9 Lacking Areas ...............................................................................................................46
CHAPTER-5 ...........................................................................................................................47
conclusions ............................................................................................................................. 48
CHAPTER-6 ...........................................................................................................................49Suggestions & Future Work ...................................................................................................50
CHAPTER-7 ...........................................................................................................................51
Limitations of Research ..........................................................................................................52Tools Used ..............................................................................................................................53
APPENDICES .......................................................................................................................VII
Questionnaire ........................................................................................................................VIIList of companies surveyed .....................................................................................................X
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Company Profile .....................................................................................................................XI
Bibliography ........................................................................................................................ XVI
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LIST OF FIGURES
Figure 1.1: Areas of concern for garment industry 1................................................................2Figure 1. 2: Steps of product development8.............................................................................4
Figure 3: Type of business......................................................................................................30
Figure 4: Level of Technologies in companies.......................................................................32Figure 5: Average Production.................................................................................................33
Figure 6: Product details.........................................................................................................34
Figure 7: Type of fabric..........................................................................................................35Figure 8: Woven fabric type...................................................................................................35
Figure 9: Type of Knitted fabric.............................................................................................36
Figure 10: Marker efficiency for Shirt...........................................................................37Figure 11: Marker Efficiency for Trouser..............................................................................38
Figure 12: Marker Efficiency for T-Shirt...............................................................................39Figure 13: Time taken for Pattern Making.............................................................................40
Figure 14: Time taken for Pattern grading.............................................................................42Figure 15: Time taken for Marker making...................................................................43
Figure 16: Time taken in Product development & marker making........................................44
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CHAPTER-1
INTRODUCTION
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INTRODUCTION
One of the oldest industries which fulfill one of the basic needs of humans is the garment
industry. Garment industry contributes a high percentage in the countrys total revenue. But
still there are many challenges that the garment industry has to face in future. The main
areas of concern are:
Figure 1.1: Areas of concern for garment industry 1
Due to high competition & decentralized manufacturing many of the garment industries are
looking forward to the software solutions provided by various companies so as to streamline
the processes & to overcome some of the challenges mentioned above as fast as possible.
Garment industry is labour intensive, raw material intensive, capital intensive, product
intensive, inventory intensive and with just one exception i.e. profit margins, which are non-
intensive.2 This industry is highly dependent on the skill of the pattern master, pattern
grader, cutting master, sewing operators, finishing operators etc.
1- Tukatech website: http://www.tukatech.com/ Tukatech Your Fashion Business
Concerns.htm
2-ERP in apparel industry by P.Ganesan, fibre2fahion.com
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This industry still needs to be standardized. From 1910 garment industry started using size
designation for mass production & selling. A size system represents particular measurement
which will fit to most individuals in population. But the anthropometric data available now
is mostly outdated, hence not well fit. This may due to large variation in the population.
According to a survey 50% of women are not having well fitted cloth in the present sizing
system.3 So there is requirement to find a solution for providing mass customization.
The garment manufacturing can be divided into various stages such as product development,
spreading, cutting, sewing, finishing & packing. It can be stated that if garment is correct in
terms of fit, style, color, design & drape at the product development stage then there are less
chances of error at the later stage. So product development is most crucial stage of garment
industry. More over if automation is done this stage then are very less chances of error.
There is a need to automize the product development process because of various reasons. 4
First is that buyers are at far of places so if a merchandiser sends sample it takes a long time
to get back the sample after approval/ recommendations. More over it involves cost & time.
After every variation or correction pattern master has to make the pattern again & again to
see the results. Moreover now a days fashion is changing at a very fast pace so quick
response is the main key factor for success. An agile automation system will allow in
responding quickly to rapidly changing market conditions.5
3-Body Scanning and Modeling for custom fit garment, By B.Xu, Y.Huang & T.Chen
4- An integrated simulation platform for the validation of a novel garment manufacturing
system by Dott. Ing. Marco Principi
5- An integrated simulation platform for the validation of a novel garment manufacturing
system by Dott. Ing. Marco Principi page: 24
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Technology adoption is mostly used by garment industrialists to have a competitive edge
over their competitors by cost cutting & increasing profits.6 By softwares such as CAD, the
pattern can be made easily and correction can be done as many times as possible. Smartmark
can be used to get the most efficient marker in a few minutes. E-fit or virtual prototyping
can be used to drape garment on model on the screen & animation helps to see fit & drape.7
The various steps of product development are:
Figure 1. 2: Steps of product development8
6- Technology Adoption of Indian garment manufacturing firms by Venu Varukolu B.Tech.,
Osmania University, 2003 August, 2007, pg-8
7,8- The Comparison of the Manual and CAD Systems for Pattern Making, Grading and
Marker Making Processes by Ziynet Ondogan, Cetin Erdogan in Fibres & textiles in
Eastern Europe January / March 2006, Vol. 14, No. 1 (55)
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The CAD system or Smartmark (automatic marker making) are much more productive
compared to the manual method. They systems will provide great advantages in responding
quickly to multi- piece, multi size orders in small quantities. Moreover, these will provide
substantial savings as far as fabric costs are concerned.
Therefore, the objective of this research is to find out whether higher levels of product
development are better than manual method of product development and marker making.
Objective:
Objective is to compare different levels of product development and marker making i.e.
manual, semi automatic, automatic & high level.
Sub objectives:
To learn about different Tukatech softwares used for product development i.e. Tuka
CAD, Tuka mark, Smartmark & virtual prototyping (e-fit).
To do survey of different garment industries in NCR region for comparison of
different ways of product development and marker making.
To compare product development time & cost.
To compare marker efficiency for different levels.
Hypothesis:
1. Higher levels (virtual prototyping/ automatic levels) of product development
gives better quality, higher productivity & higher time saving than manual level of product
development.
2. High level gives better marker efficiency in case of solid fabric whereas
manual level gives better efficiency in case of plaids & stripes.
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CHAPTER-2
REVIEW OF
LITERATURE
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REVIEW OF LITERATURE
2.1 Product development in garment manufacturing
Garment is the main product of textile & clothing sector. Previously it was considered as a
basic need but now a days people want different styles in garments to match their status.
Garment industry is different from other industries as it is highly affected by the change of
seasons & associated with frequent changes in customer lifestyle and requirements.1
Due to seasonal nature, the product development time is very tight and strict to the seasonal
fashion calendar. Textile and apparel product development is normally planned one year in
advance. As a result, product planning and development rely highly on the forecasting
service, feedback from the retailers, and product performance analysis.2
Short product lifecycle leads to frequent product planning & product development. Flexible
manufacturing technology enables to respond quickly any variation in style.3
Todays fashion cycles mean more styles- more variation- less volume- thus resulting in
need for quick response. 4
Figure 2.1: Product development Model 5
1, 2, 3, 5- New Conceptual Model for Design Development of Smart Clothing, Ariyatum B
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4- DP78, CAD/CAM a comparative study, GMT, NIFT, Delhi
Product development in garment industry is characterized by the functional independence.
There are various steps in product development in which each member plays a significant
role. The product development can be broadly divide into five stages such as consumer
research, design & concept development, sampling, specification development & pre
production sampling.6
Figure 2.2: Product development Process7
6, 7-NewConceptual Model for Design Development of Smart Clothing,Ariyatum, B
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2.2 Need for advancement in product development process
Figure 2.3: Disciplines involved in product development8
Product development involves interlink between various disciplines such as designers,
merchandiser & pattern maker or garment technologist. These disciplines need to be
involved closely for the right product development. This involves good communication
between different departments. But in most of the cases designers are not in direct contact
with the merchandiser or pattern maker. So merchandiser sends samples to designers or
buyers for various approvals. This consumes most part of the lead time. This initiates the
need of automation or advancement in product development so that lead time can be
reduced. 9
So garment manufacturing comprises of many interdependent yet disparate process. Pattern
making & marker making plays crucial role in fabric saving, fitting & drape of garments.
There are various levels of product development based on the levels of automation that are
prevailing in the garment industry. In the subsequent sections each level will be described in
details. 10
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Utilisation Rates of Features
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
Grading Marker
Making
Plotting Digitising Pattern
Develpoment
Pattern
Modification
Pattern Spec
Revision
Features
Percentage
8, 9, 10-NewConceptual Model for Design Development of Smart Clothing, byAriyatum, B
The advanced methods or softwares can be used for various steps in product development.
Stitch World has conducted a survey on apparel CAD systems installed in approximately
100 Clothing and Apparel companies in India. It was found that software such as CAD is
utilized for grading in most of the cases.11
Figure 2.4: Utilization rates of features of with the software 12
2.3 Manual product development & marker making
This involves the development of pattern & the marker manually without the help of
software. First of all base size pattern is prepared with the help of measurements along with
the notches, allowances, drill marks etc with pencil on the sheet.
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11,12- 27- November 2004; CAD systems In the Indian textile & apparel industry; Stitch
World; Volume II, Issue 9.
Then the pattern is cut. Then base size pattern is graded manually to different sizes. After
that all the pattern pieces are placed on the fabric directly and different arrangements of
pattern pieces are done to obtain a marker of maximum efficiency. Then cutting is done
manually with the help of cutting knife.13
2.4 Semi automatic product development & marker making
This level involves the use of software for product development. The software which is
mostly used is CAD. CAD system was invented in 1970 by CAMSCO. Lectra entered in the
field of garment CAD from 1980s. After this Gerber technology purchased CAMSCO
CAD14. By the end of 1993 many vendors were having automatic spreader, automatic
marker making. The technique of making marker & arranging the pattern pieces efficiently
in 30-45 sec was developed in this era. 15
In this level, pattern is prepared manually then digitized with digitizer and then graded with
CAD. Then marker is prepared with the help of marker making software and plotter.
This involves the development of pattern manually & the marker with the help of different
marker making softwares i.e. Tukamark, Modaris. 16
2.5 Automatic product development & marker making
In garment manufacturing process there are various tasks that are performed repetitively. So
many industries are offering softwares which perform these tasks quickly & efficiently. 17
13,14, 17- Patternmaking: Past to Present,By Dr. Kim Anderson
16- DP241,CAD: A comparative study by Shilpa Sarwate,2004-06, GMT, NIFT, Delhi
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15- The Comparison of the Manual and CAD Systems for Pattern Making, Grading and
Marker Making Processes, by Ziynet Ondogan, Cetin Erdogan
Under this level of technology pattern development, grading & marker making is done
completely with the help of CAD. Considering the complexity involved with different
fabrics and silhouettes, a CAD system makes it easier & faster. A mistake anywhere down
the line in the prototyping or cutting process becomes very difficult and often impossible to
rectify. So a CAD system deskills some of the processes involved in mass manufacturing,
namely the preproduction processes so that perfectly cut parts can be fed to the operators.
Additionally, the fabric saved in bulk cutting while using a CAD system is enormous.18
2.6 High level technology in product development & marker making
High level of automation involves the use of e-fit simulator / 3D body scanning / virtual try-
on/ Smartmark (automarker).
e-fit: The first applications of cloth simulation in the field of computer graphics started in
1987. This was simple simulation of rectangular cloth like flag draping. However first
garment simulation was started in 1990 with consideration of many technologies. This was
the first virtual simulation of garment in which fabric is sewed around a model.19
In this a pattern maker can create a virtual sample garment to verify the fit of their
patterns. Moreover, by emailing a digital apparel sample, designers can visualize a
garments design and fit within days of submitting technical specifications. 20
e-fit Simulator software creates a digital sample of the garment, draped on a 3D virtual fit
model, using the latest in cloth simulation technology with a digital (CAD) pattern and a set
of fabric values (such as stretch, weight, etc). 21
18- Fashion design CAD/CAM software overview, by Mr. Saar Machtinger
19, 20,21-tukatech website,http://www.tukatech.com/products/efit
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Many samples can be created in much less time than it would take to sew and deliver a real
garment. Virtual fitting allows user to see the effect of alterations immediately on the screen
without actually making the garments.22
Using 3D draping the digital pattern is wrapped onto the model, and an appropriate
movement is applied to test the fit. Any fit issues are immediately apparent. The pattern can
be adjusted, the garment is then re-draped to view in the e-fit Simulator, and the file can be
forwarded to supply chain partners. 23
3 D body scanning: Concept of mass customization in mass production is one of the tools
for delighting the customers. It provides a competitive strategy to many manufacturers.
Meanwhile it also reduces inventory cost and overstock problems. A designed garment that
fits requires lot of information about human body. An automatic body measurement system
is a basic need for maximizing customer satisfaction. 3D body scanning involves the
scanning of human body & recording the data automatically. It utilizes the technique of
acquiring body data and provides accurate body measurements which were not possible with
conventional system. From scanned data a body form/model can be constructed. This body
can be treated as digital model of body for garment design. Now data can be utilized for
product development. The Scanning technology and its software has provided apparel
manufacturers a tool to make customized garments.24
22- tukatech website, http://www.tukatech.com/products/efit/
23- http://www.tc2.com/newsletter/2008/080608.html
24- Body Scanning and Modeling for custom fit garment, By B.Xu, Y.Huang & T.Chen
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The Virtual Try-On: Garment designing and innovation will be incomplete without
customer satisfaction. In this technology customers are free to choose the garment of their
preference & they can try on 3D mannequins which are according to their body
measurements. With this they can move the body in different postures and feel the effect on
fit & drape of the garment. This technology is composed of two components first is web
server and other is client application. Web server is having two databases one is keeping all
the details of the mannequins while the other is keeping details of available garments with
its measurements. When clients request for the mannequins, then particular size model will
be downloaded on the client systems.
Then garment is designed with design tools and exported into garment database. This web
client application provides body/garment sizing module & the real time garment simulation
module. Body/garment sizing module changes 3D mannequins according to the clients
body measurement. After this animation take care of real time simulation of garments.26
Figure 2.5: Architecture of virtual try-onapplication25
25, 26-From Early Virtual Garment Simulation to Interactive Fashion Design Pascal
VOLINO, Frederic CORDIER, Nadia MAGNENAT-THALMANN MIRALab
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Smartmark (Automarker): Automarker arranges the pattern pieces automatically in few
minutes to get the most efficient marker.
2.7 Scope for advancement in product development
In western countries a number of initiatives have been taken on made to measure and on
online shopping. Concept of e-Tailor arises by combining technology of 3D body scanning,
3D CAD & Virtual try-on. It aims to provide customized retailing service of garments and to
tackle the problem of sizing systems, fitting problems, high cost & data privacy. This fast
and quick response technology enables mass customization at very low price. Features
offered by this technology have advantage over the others, so this technology will be widely
used in future.27
POS order
Figure 2.6: The functional components of E-tailor infrastructure28
27, 28- E-Tailor, By G.A.Kartsounis, N.Magnenat-Thalmann, Hans-Christian Rodrian
[15]
Internet
Home shoppingSizing SurveyAnthropometric
Database
Dat
a
Base
Retail outlet
Dat
a
Base3D Body
Scanning
Production
CAD
Order Process
ERP
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Factors Influencing Investment
56%
21%
11%
9% 3%
Growth
Product Category
Vendor/ Retailer
Demand Related
Extent Computer
Environs
Operator
2.8 Factors influencing investment in the advanced methods of product development
There are many factors which attract garment industries to adopt advanced ways of product
development and marker making. The primary stimulant for investment in the advanced
methods of product development is the growth. Next is the specific product type, then buyer/
retailers demand, followed by the extent computer environs and then operators skill level.
Figure 2.7: Factors influencing investment27
The main reasons which propel garment industries to invest in software solutions for product
development also include the following:
More innovation and greater consistency
Quicker and more flexible response
Enhanced quality of service and product to the customer
Reduced operating cost
Increased sales revenue
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Hidden Costs
25%
17%
14%
14%
13%
12%5%
Consumables
Software Upgrade
Hardware Upgrade
Repair
Training
Troubleshooting
Overheads
27-27 November 2004; CAD systems In the Indian textile & apparel industry; Stitch
World; Volume II, Issue 9.
Optimization of the time spends on design and development.
Improved communication
Reduced sampling costs
Creation of business opportunities and provision of service. 28
2.9 Hidden costs involved in advanced methods of product development
It is clear that advanced methods of product development are less time consuming, easy &
comfortable. But there are hidden costs that are involved after the purchase of software. This
also forms a substantial part of the total cost. The hidden costs are shown below along with
the % contribution in the total costs.
Figure 2.8: Hidden costs29
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28-Present scenario of CAD system in apparel industry by Navtej Kaur Gill, DBM.
29- 27 November 2004; CAD systems In the Indian textile & apparel industry; Stitch
World; Volume II, Issue 9
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CHAPTER-3
METHODOLOGY
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METHODOLOGY
3.1 Research design
A plan outlining how information is to be gathered for an assessment or evaluation that
includes identifying the data gathering methods, the instruments to be used, how the
instruments will be administered, and how the information will be organized and analyzed is
called research design.1
Research design is the strategy, plan, and structure of conducting a research project. A plan
for collecting and utilizing data so that desired information can be obtained with sufficient
precision.2
3.2 Research process step
Research objective
List of information needed
Method of data collection
Selecting a sample type
Determining sample size
Data collection
Findings & Analysis
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Conclusion
3.3 Components of research design
3.3.1 List of information needed
In this research we need the following information from questionnaire:
Level of automation: Manual/ Semi automatic/ automatic / high level of automation, name
of software & hardware, types of garments, width & type of fabric,initial investment, no. of
software operators& salary of operators / masters. Marker efficiency for different kinds of
fabrics for three different basic garments i.e. Shirt, Trouser & T-Shirt were collected from
different industries using different methods of product development. Time taken for pattern
making, grading & marker making for different types of fabric & basic garments was also
collected for analysis.
3.3.2 Method of data collection
The data has been collected by doing survey. In this questions were asked from the
companies using CAD and other technologies for product development. The
information/data collected from this survey has been used for the analysis. The analysis is
done by using various tools like excel & SPSS. The questions in the questionnaire were of
different types i.e. Check-off, Fill-in-the-blank, scale type and Open-ended fill-in items.
3.3.3 Type of data collection
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3.3.4 Descriptive research
Descriptive research, also known as statistical research, describes data and characteristics
about the population or phenomenon being studied. Descriptive research answers the
questions who, what, where, when and how.3 The description is used for frequencies,
averages and other statistical calculations. The best approach of descriptive research is to
conduct a survey investigation. It deals with everything that can be counted and studied. For
example, if there is a need of additional features in the CAD system then CAD vendors
should be aware of this and that changes should be incorporated in the software/hardware.4
3.3.5 Primary data collection
The objective of the project has been accomplished through Primary and Secondary
sources. Data Collection through Primary Sources includes:
Interviewing a person from the Software Solution Company (Tukatech).
Filling the questionnaires from 34 industry experts.
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a) Interview- An interview was conducted with the Managing Director (Asia) of Tukatech
Inc to know the features of CAD and other softwares for product development. It was
conducted before filling up the questionnaires to form a theoretical base of the project.
b) Questionnaires-
Tools: We have used questionnaire for data collection both objective type & open ended.
Survey method has been used for primary data collection. This is a process of collecting
information from people. The data has been obtained face to face through questionnaires. A
questionnaire is a written or electronic survey instrument comprised of a series of questions,
designed to measure a specific item or set of items.
Respondent: The questionnaires have been filled by industry experts who are in direct
contact with the techniques used in Pattern Making, Pattern Grading and Marker Making
like Pattern Masters, Cutting Masters, CAD Operators/ CAD Managers.
Reason for choosing respondent: As the research is related to Pattern Making, Pattern
Grading and Marker Making so these are the experts who are directly connected to all these
procedures.
Place of response: They have filled the questionnaires in the companies for they are
working.
Time of response: We have collected the data after studying the Literature so as to get
familiar with the problems & scenario.
Way of response collection: The data was collected through Questionnaire Method.
3.3.6 Secondary data collection
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The sources for collection of secondary data are:
a) Books- Books which are related to CAD and product development which provide
with the basic information on CAD.
b) Magazines- Magazines like Stitch World and The Indian Textile Journal which have
the latest articles on CAD.
c) Websites- Websites of the Software Solution Companies.
d) Video from Tukatech- This video includes Pattern making through CAD. Making
of basic patterns of a Shirt and a pair of Trouser through CAD i.e. a Guide Tour. It
also contains the features of the Software.
e) Brochures from Tukatech- It have the features of the Software and all the kind of
solutions provided by Tukatech Inc.5
3.4 Sampling design
3.4.1 Sampling type: Cluster sampling
Cluster sampling is selecting respondents from certain areas only. It is a two-stage sampling:
In the first stage we had chosen Delhi & NCR as a sample area; in the second stage a sample
of respondents within those areas has been be selected. The industries are: Richa exports,
Maya puri; Richa exports, Kirti Nagar; Richa exports, Gurgaon; ITC, Gurgaon; Poddar
Exports, Gurgaon; Orient Craft, Gurgaon etc. The full list has been attached in annexure.6
3.4.2 Sampling unit
The companies using different ways of product development has been selected. In this few
were using manual product development, some were using semi automatic product
development (using CAD for few purposes), few were using automatic product development
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(using CAD & other softwares for all purposes) & some are high level of product
development (using e-fit).
3.4.3 Sample size
Sample size is 34 garment manufacturing industries. 5 garment industries were for pilot run
survey.
3.4.4 Survey location
Delhi & NCR .region.
3.5 Analysis of plan
Data analysis is based on various stages of product development i.e. Pattern making,
Grading, Marker making, fit simulator by the following parameters:
Time
Labor cost
Investment
Marker Efficiency
3.6 Techniques used
One-way ANOVA/ univariate ANOVA: We have compared three or more unmatched
groups so we have selectedone-way ANOVA for analysis. The Analysis Of Variance (or
ANOVA) is a powerful and common statistical procedure.7
3.7 Instrumentation
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Pilot study is done before the final survey. Because the questionnaire prepared in first stage
may not be fully sufficient. We did pilot survey to test sufficiency of our questionnaire. At
the end of pilot survey we are able to make final questionnaire.
PURPOSE OF STUDY
Purpose of this study is to analyze the difference between various stages of product
development i.e. Pattern making, Grading, Marker making, Fit simulator by the following
parameters:
Maker Efficiency
Time
Cost
During this project levels i.e. manual, semi automatic, automatic & high level of automation
in the product development can be defined by giving proper merits.
1- www.utexas.edu/academic/diia/assessment/iar/glossary.php
2-Research Methods Knowledge Base by William M.K. Trochim
http://www.socialresearchmethods.net/kb/index.php
3,4- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Descriptive_research accessed on 03/03/2009
5- Present scenario of CAD system in apparel industry by Navtej Kaur Gill, DBM.
6- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sampling_ (statistics) accessed on 4/03/09.
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7- www.uwsp.edu/psych/stat/12/anova-1w.htm accessed on 4/3/09
Reference: Consumer preference towards kid wear brands, by Dolley Dey, 2004-06, FMS,
NIFT Delhi
Reference: Market study for brand XYZ in premium segment, byNeha Parwal, FMS, NIFT
Delhi
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CHAPTER-4
FINDINGS & ANALYSIS
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FINDINGS & ANALYSIS
The research is aimed at analyzing the product development & marker making methods. So
that appropriate product development & marker making methods can be selected for
efficient & accurate garment manufacturing.
To collect relevant information, we have done survey of 34 companies in NCR region. To
collect information the questionnaire used was structured & non-disguised. The findings &
analysis of the survey are as follows in the form of pie charts & graphs.
The information collected by questionnaire is presented in the findings. The findings of the
research are collected from the respondent that is giving information on following areas:
Type of business
Level of technologies
Production
Product details
Fabric details
Marker efficiency
Time
Virtual Prototyping (e-fit)
Lacking Areas in Software
Initially findings are presented in the different formats. Data collected by questionnaire is
presented by graphs & pie charts drawn by Microsoft-excel. Then data has been analyzed by
SPSS (Statistical package for social sciences) for windows, version 17.0.
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The way by which we have collected the data is face to face interviewing the pattern masters
& CAD operators. Through best of our knowledge the data which we have collected is
authentic and we have presented the findings & analysis on that basis. There may be slight
variation from the practical; this may be due to wrong data provided by few respondents.
4.1 Type of business
Garment industry is involved in the both kinds of business i.e. export & domestic. But due to
fewer margins in the domestic field, they prefer to work for export market. Out of total
respondents, there are 88% units which are 100% export oriented & 12% of units are
manufacturing for both domestic & exports. The companies dealing in both exports &
domestic have a lower % of domestic business. This shows that maximum companies are
involved in the export business of the garments. Now some of the export oriented units have
started entering into domestic market due to decrease in order from the foreign buyers in the
present economic scenario.
Business Type
12%
88%
Domestic & Expo
Export Only
Figure 3: Type of business
Export oriented companies need quick response with good quality level so they require
advancement in technology to cope up with the buyers demand and compliances.
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4.2. Level of technologies
There are different ways of product development in the garment industry. The basis on
which we have divided the level of technologies is as follows:
Manual: They are working manually for each process of product development & marker
making.
Semi Automatic: Those industries which are mainly using CAD for grading & marker
making but doing pattern making manually.
Automatic: Those industries which are mainly using CAD for pattern making, grading,
marker making.
High level of technology: Companies using CAD for all processes along with other add-
on softwares such as auto marker & virtual prototyping.
Out of total respondents, there are 24% of units having manual, 46% having semi
automatic, rest 30% are having automatic & higher level of technologies. Out of the total
population 24% are practicing manual methods for pattern making, grading & marker
making. Most of the industries are still having CAD but doing pattern making & marker
making manually. This comprises 46% of the total population. This may due to the
difficulty in making patterns on the CAD as most of the pattern masters are resistant to
use CAD systems. Only 15% of the industries are utilizing CAD for all processes of
product development (pattern making, grading) & marker making. Rest 15% is highly
automated industries. They are using all features of CAD systems and various add-on
features. This includes auto marker & virtual prototyping. Tukatech has various
solutions such as Smartmark (auto marker) & e-fit (virtual prototyping).
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Level of technologies in companies
24%
46%
15%
15%
Manual
Semi automati
Automatic
High Level
Figure 4: Level of Technologies in companies
4.3 Production
Depending on the production output different kinds of technologies are implemented by
garment manufacturers. This is because for high production, the company needs highly
sophisticated tools for accuracy & quality.
Among the companies surveyed, the average production in companies having different
levels is shown below. This graph shows that high level is having very high production ascompared to other levels. This is because in highly automized industry time taken is very
less in each of the processes. So the same amount of work is done faster as compared with
manual. There is less difference in the avg. production of semi automatic & automatic
industry because automatic industry can do work faster with application of CAD in pattern
making and marker making.
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Average production
113000
162900 168517.2414
242166.6667
0
50000
100000
150000
200000
250000
300000
Manual Semi automatic Automatic High Level
Technology Level
AverageProduction
Figure 5: Average Production
The companies having higher production use high levels of technology to maintain their
output.
4.4 Product details
Among the companies surveyed, the majority of companies are manufacturing all categories
of garments, 26% are making only ladies wear, 24% are manufacturing ladies, mens & kids
wear, 12% are manufacturing ladies & kids wear rest 12% are making ladies & mens wear.
Very few industries are making high fashion garments. It can be interpreted from the graph
that all companies are manufacturing ladies wear along with either kids wear or menswear.
In the graph shown below
All implies ladies wear, kids wear, menswear & high fashion garments. L implies ladies
wear, M implies menswear and K implies kids wear.
As the complexity increases in style the companies require advanced methods to get good
quality as per standards. Companies manufacturing high fashion garments are using high
level technology such as virtual prototyping to check the drape & fit of the garments.
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Product details
26%
24%
12%
12%
26%
All
LM
LK
LM
L
Figure 6: Product details
4.5 Fabric details
Type of fabric plays an important role in product development & marker making. There is
direct impact of this on selection of different CAD and other systems. For example width of
fabric has direct impact on the cutting table width. Hence it has effect marker efficiency.
With due consideration of this, we have collected following data.
i) Out of all companies that we have surveyed 35% of companies are working on woven,
15% on knits & 50% on both. Maximum companies are working on woven fabric because
most of the orders are of woven garments. Nearly 50% of the industries are working on both
kinds of fabric as they have flexibility in technology. Hence while selecting any technology
it should be taken in mind that it should mostly useful for woven fabrics, while its use for
knits should also be taken in care.
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Type of Fabric
Woven
35%
Knits
15%
Both
50%
Wo
Kni
Bot
Figure 7: Type of fabric
ii) Out of all the companies working on woven garments 39% of units are working on non
denim, 35% on denim. This shows that non denim fabric is mostly used, while 26%
companies are working on both types of woven fabrics. Hence one can say that
compatibility of any software should be for both kind of fabrics i.e. denim and non-denim.
Woven fabric type
35%
39%
26%
Denim
Non de
Both
Figure 8: Woven fabric type
iii) Out of all the companies working on knitted garments 64% of units are working on
tubular and 36% are working on open & tubular knitted fabric. No companies are working
only on open fabric. There are companies which are working on open fabrics along with
tubular fabric. This is because companies are getting this kind of knitted fabric mostly from
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knitting industry. The open/tubular affects the marker efficiency.
Knitted fabric
36%
64%
TubularOpen/Tu
Figure 9: Type of Knitted fabric
iv) All units are working on plain, stripe, plaid & printed woven fabrics. No industry is
specifically working on a particular type of fabric. This is because they are getting orders of
all kinds. But in case of trouser mostly they are working on solid fabric, very less in plaid &
print.
v) Similarly all units working on knitted fabric are working on all types of knitted fabric i.e.
single jersey, double jersey, rib & interlock. No industry is specifically working on a
particular type of fabric.
vi) The average width of woven fabric is 46.09. The average width of fabric used for shirtis 42-44 while of trouser is 56-58. The average width of knitted fabric is 31.36. The
average width of fabric used for T-shirt is 28-30 in tube form while 50-56 in open form.
The type of fabric & width of fabric have a great affect on the marker efficiency.
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4.6 Marker efficiency
The main parameters that affect the marker efficiency are: Width of fabric, type of fabric,
length of table, style of garment, no. of components. As we know in total cost fabric cost has
highest impact, so it becomes mandatory to have higher marker efficiency to avoid wastage
of fabrics. For our analysis we have chosen three basic garments i.e. Shirt, Trouser & T-
Shirts. We have collected data for the four way marker i.e. Placement of parts of four
garments. Analysis of all three basic garments is presented below one by one.
The marker efficiency for shirt is higher than trouser but lower than T- shirt. This is because
trouser is having more parts and the legs are longer. T-shirt has less no. of components so
there is less wastage. Solid fabric gives highest efficiency. Stripe & plaid gives less
efficiency because matching is required. But all over printed fabric gives slightly less
efficiency than solid when print is required at some particular position.
A) Shirt
Shirt is one of most basic garments, which is manufactured widely. So it becomes important
for every manufacturer to achieve highest efficiency for the same. The picture depicted
below explains the efficiency trends of the shirt.
Marker Efficiency of shirt
65
70
75
80
85
90
Solid Stripe Plaid Print
Type of Fabric
Efficiency%
Manual
Semi Automati
Automatic
High Level
Figure 10: Marker efficiency for Shirt
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The graph shows that in case of solid shirt high level is having highest efficiency. Below this
is automatic level, then semi automatic & manual levels. For solids no matching is required
so automarker is most efficient marker making tool. In case of stripes & checks the marker
efficiency is lowest with automarker. Print is showing almost same trends as that of solids.
For plaids/stripes fabrics manual process is more efficient. Because manually one can match
check and stripe efficiently in comparison to the automatic marker making.
B) Trouser
Trouser is one of most common basic garments among all bottoms, which is manufactured
widely. So it becomes important for every manufacturer to achieve highest efficiency for the
same. The picture depicted below explains the efficiency trends of the trouser.
Marker Efficiency of trouser
65.00
70.00
75.00
80.00
85.00
90.00
Solid Stripe Plaid Print
Type of fabric
Efficiency
Manual
Semi Automatic
Automatic
High Level
Figure 11: Marker Efficiency for Trouser
The graph shows that in case of solid trouser, high level is having highest efficiency. Below
this is automatic level, then semi automatic & manual levels. For solids no matching is
required so automarker make marker more efficiently. In case of stripes & checks the
marker efficiency is lowest with automarker. Print is showing almost same trends as that of
solids.
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C) Trouser
T-Shirt is one of most basic garments among all casuals, which is manufactured widely. So
it becomes important for every manufacturer to achieve highest efficiency for the same. The
picture depicted below explains the efficiency trends of the t-shirt marker making.
Marker Efficiency of T-shirt
65.00
70.00
75.00
80.00
85.00
90.00
95.00
Solid Stripe Plaid Print
Type of fabric
Efficiency%
Manual
Semi Automati
Automatic
High Level
Figure 12: Marker Efficiency for T-Shirt
The graph shows that in case of solid t-shirt high level is having highest efficiency. Below
this is automatic level, then semi automatic & manual levels. For solids no matching is
required so automarker make marker more efficiently. In case of stripes & checks the
marker efficiency is lowest with automarker. Print is showing almost same trends as that of
solids.
Anova analysis:
The graph mentioned below is clearly showing that the
distribution of values is not normal. So we are not able
to apply any parametric statistical test for analysis.
Besides that these data fail to pass the normality and
linearity test. The reason for this deviation is that:
The time difference between the levels is very high.
The other reason is that no. of companies using high
level is very less.
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4.7 Time taken
Time taken includes the total time required to make pattern, grade the pattern & placing the
pieces on the lay and drawing the marker. Time is most important factor to compare the four
levels. And there is significant difference between the four levels in terms of time. Time is
generally higher in case of doing the processes manually. The reason is that whenever
changes are required in the pattern the Pattern Master has to make the pattern again & again
but with software they can easily make alterations and thus consumes less time. The time
taken for each of the processes is lowest in case of T-shirt due to less no. of components.
A) Pattern making
Pattern making process is one of the crucial processes among all process of productdevelopment. Along with this it is most time consuming process. So implementation of
technology for this process becomes crucial to save time. Comparisons of time taken by
different ways of product development are given below.
Time taken for pattern making
0
50
100
150
200
Shirt Trouser T-Shirt
Type of garment
Time
inmins
CA
Ma
Figure 13: Time taken for Pattern Making
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The first graph shown compares the pattern making time for manual & CAD. The CAD is
used by all levels except manual. The other graph shows the time taken individually for each
level. Time taken for pattern making is highest for trouser as it contains more parts whereas
shirt has fewer components. Pattern of the T shirt can be prepared in least time as compared
to others. As use of the software makes the work easier and faster so time taken in case of
manual is obviously more. Because in software all the tools helps to make the work simpler
the operator just need to enter the value of the desired operation & operation is done
automatically. Meanwhile time taken can be reduced more by giving proper training to the
operator. If operator will be trained more in CAD then they can take less than what we got
from the survey. So time, highly depends on skill of the operator.
B) Pattern grading
Pattern grading is the process in which involvement of technology can reduce time by many
factors. Due to this all most all semi automatic industry are using this feature of CAD. Even
for doing this they are purchasing CAD software. One can say that CAD is life line for
grading patterns. Without this it becomes very confusing and hectic job. It is most widely
used feature of CAD Systems which makes grading simpler & faster.
There are two graphs shown below, one is showing the time taken for grading by manual &
CAD. The other graph explains the trend of time taken in grading in different levels of
technology.
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Time taken for pattern grading
0
50
100
150
200
250300
350
400
Shirt Trouser T-Shirt
Type of garment
Timeinmins
CA
Ma
Figure 14: Time taken for Pattern grading
Pattern grading involves the grading the pattern to differnet sizes. Grading time depends on
the the no. of points at which grading is required, no. of sizes, no. of componenets & style of
garment. For basic gamrents and four sizes, Grading of T-shirt takes lowest time as
compared to shirt & trouser. Trouser even takes more time than shirt due to more no. of
points at which grading is required. Grading time is very in manual systems but it nearly
same for rest of the levels.
C) Marker making
Marker making is like a puzzle to arrange pattern pieces on the fabric to get minimum
wastage. Manually the operator needs to place the pattern pieces again & again to get
maximum efficiency. But in case of Software it easier for the operator to see the marker
again & again after shifting the pieces & finally when he gets maximum efficiency then only
he takes the print out of the marker.
There are two graphs shown below, one is showing the time taken for marker making by
manual & CAD. The other graph explains the trend of time taken in marker making in
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different levels of technology. From the second picture it is very much clear that automarker
can do efficient marker within few minutes.
Time taken for marker making
0
20
40
60
80
100
Shirt Trouser T-Shirt
Type of Garment
Timeinmins
Manual
CAD
Smartm
Figure 15: Time taken for Marker making
It is easier to place the pattern for a shirt than trouser because the long legs of trouser make
the work a little complex. A T-Shirt has fewer components so they get arranged easily. Due
to this reason time taken marker making for t-shirt is lowest in comparisons to shirt and
trouser. Between different levels of technology marker making time is least in case of
automarker. Manual process of marker making is taking highest time in comparisons to
other process.
D) Total time taken (for Pattern making, grading & marker making)
In this section overall time taken in product development and marker making is given. The
graph shown below clearly depicts that the total time taken is lowest in high level while
highest in manual level for all types of basic garments which we have considered.
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Time Taken in Product development & Marker making
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
700
Shirt Trouser T-Shirt
Type of Garment
Time(mins) Manual
Semi autom
Automatic
High Level
Figure 16: Time taken in Product development & marker making
Within the type of basic garments the time taken is highest for trouser while lowest in T
shirt. For the shirt it is between the two. As from graph one can conclude that high level is
most efficient technology and by this time consumed is least.
Annova Analysis:
The graph mentioned below is clearly showing that the distribution of values is not normal.
So we are not able to apply any parametric statistical test for analysis. Besides that these
data fail to pass the normality and linearity test. The reason for this deviation is that:
The time difference between the levels is very high.
The other reason is that no. of companies using high level is very less.
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4.8 Virtual Prototyping (e-fit)
There is no any direct impact of Virtual prototyping on the product development. But there
is several indirect effects like:
E-Sampling: Manufacturer can send e-sample. This can save there cost and time
incurred in dealing with the practically sending the samples and getting approvals
from buyers.
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Fit: Fit and the drape of the garment can be checked before sending pattern and
marker for cutting of the fabrics. By this the areas where there is more tension can
be checked on the standard models. Thus pattern can be corrected to get perfect it on
the body. This can be most useful in the case of high fashion garments.
There is other useful impact of Virtual Prototyping that is directly or indirectly affecting
Cost, Time, and Quality of the product development.
So there is a scope of adoption of virtual prototyping but still most of the buyers are not
recommending the use of virtual prototyping. This may be because they are more
comfortable in getting fit & drape check on the dummies. That is why most of garment
industries are still hesitating to adopt this technology.
4.9 Lacking Areas
The companies which are using CAD are satisfied with most of the features but still they are
facing some problems. In dart manipulation they are facing the problem of dart slashing, &
dart opening. They are not able to open the dart properly and dart can be added from end
point to end point not in between. Notch marking is other feature in which CAD operatorsare facing problem. Shade variation problem is most common problem faced by CAD
operators. In this they have to make marker manually as the software is not having any key
to take care of shade variation. So there should be some feature in marker making software
to overcome this problem.Marker Efficiency is sometimes less in case of plaid or stripes so
CAD operators have to arrange the pattern pieces manually to get minimum wastage.The
companies which are making high fashion garments such as ladies dresses are facing
problems in frill making and then grading it with the help of CAD. The shape of frill is not
exact as they are getting manually. In future these can be taken care of for further
improvement and to make the software more user friendly & useful.
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CHAPTER-5
CONCLUSIONS
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CONCLUSIONS
By this research we have reached at the conclusions mentioned below. The conclusions can
be divided as:
1. Cost: By observing the trends in the cost, we can conclude that investment is highest
in high level of technology while it is decreasing as we move from high to manual
level. But the cost/piece is increasing as we are moving from highest level to lowest
level. So we can conclude that adoption of technology is in the favour of the
manufacturing. Not only cost wise but also it will save lead time and perform better
in terms of the quality. So person having expertise in use of different softwares for
product development can perform better & can give good results. Besides the
technology, skill of the operator who is also affecting cost indirectly.
2. Marker Efficiency: High level gives highest efficiency for solid/print fabric. But
manual gives highest efficiency for stripe/plaid fabric. Saving of fabrics done by
high level technology is very high. So we can conclude that high marker efficiency
can be achieved by high level of technology. Manual process is giving better
efficiency in the case of the stripe/check. But all other parameters are in favour of the
CAD and higher level technology.
3. Time: As lead time is most crucial in garment business. CAD and other tools are
decreasing consumed time with high rate. Time is highest in manual and lowest in
case of high level for pattern making, pattern grading and marker making.
Automarker can make marker within few minutes. So high level is very much time
saving in comparison to the low and middle level technology.
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CHAPTER-6
SUGGESTIONS &
FUTURE WORK
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SUGGESTIONS & FUTURE WORK
Suggestions: According to us CAD systems and other add-on features are very much useful
for product development and marker making. It can reduce consumed time, cost incurred
and the marker efficiency. So it should be adopted by all garment manufacturers in todays
competitive scenario. Without fearing from the cost of software license and hardware, one
should adopt it for more profit.
Beside the benefits, there are some drawbacks that should not be neglected. In market there
are too many CAD system sellers. But every CAD system has some drawbacks. Like CAD
software is not having solution for the shade variation problem. Besides this some other
problems like dart manipulation, frill making etc. For this CAD companies should take
regular feedback from the user. Their suggestions can be used to make the software more
beneficial.
Future Work: We have done survey in NCR Delhi region. For getting more standard result
one should select larger sample size. So, they can get sufficient data. Only in that case they
will able to apply any parametric statistical tools. After that only the more standard results
can be interpreted.
Besides that one can extend or do Research for other processes of sampling and garment
manufacturing like cutting etc. In that case also they will be able to analyze the effect of
technology on different processes. This leads to another fruitful result and that can help both
garment manufacturers and those companies who are providing softwares to them.
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CHAPTER-7
LIMITATIONS OF
RESEARCH
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LIMITATIONS OF RESEARCH
Following are the limitations of our research:
1. Sample size (34) represents whole population.
2. Survey conducted is limited to NCR & Delhi region.
3. No. of companies under the category of automatic & high level is low.
4. We are not able to conduct experiment due to time constraint.
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TOOLS USED
1. SPSS for windows version 17.0: SPSS stands for (statistical package for social
sciences). It was developed in 1968. SPSS predictive analytics software improves
business processes by directing, optimizing, and automating decisions made
throughout an organization. Predictive analytics includes both the analysis of past,
present, and projected future outcomes using advanced analytics, and decision
optimization for determining which action will drive the optimal outcome. The
recommended action is then delivered to the systems or people that can effectively
implement it. Unlike other vendors that offer either limited predictive capabilities or
predictive analytics that cannot be deployed enterprise-wide, SPSS' comprehensive
technology is highly scalable and interoperable, enabling us to perform predictive
analytics across disparate data sources and leverage our existing technology
investments.
2. Microsoft excel (MS office tools) version 2003, 2007: It is a spread sheet which
performs all the operations of statistics along with plotting graphs & charts. It is one
of user friendly tool to compile the data and get some results. It helps in calculating
the frequently required operations such as mean, sum, division, multiplication etc
within a fraction of seconds. The same operations can be performed in different cells
very easily without wasting time. Functions such as autosum for automatic addition.
It also helps in arranging the data in increasing or decreasing order. The data can be
arranged in alphabetical order. The graphs can be prepared easily and can be
changed automatically by changing the data.
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APPENDICES
Questionnaire
1. Type of business%: Domestic _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Export _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
2. Installed Capacity: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
3. Average Production: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
4. Product Details:
Ladies wear Mens wear Kids wear fashion garments
Shirt/blouse Shirt
Trouser Trouser
Skirt Pant
Pant Cargo
Other Other
Woven Knits
Denim
Non denim
Single jersey
Double jersey
RibInterlock
WidthMax___________________
Min____________________
GSMMax___________________
Min____________________
Solid ____
Print _____
Width
Max___________________
Min____________________
Stripe ____
Check ____
Open ___
Tube ___
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7. Level of automation:
Manual
Semi automatic
Automatic
High level of automation
Virtual prototyping
8. Software details:
Softwares No. of licenses
Version Videofacility
use
year ofInstallation
Investment
Initial Maintenance Total
Tuka CAD
Tuka mark
Smartmark
Virtual
prototyping
(e-fit).
9. Hardware details:
Hardware Numbers Year of
Installation
Investment
Initial Maintenance Total
Digitizer
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Operations done by Software Select
Pattern making
Grading
marker making
Digitizing
Pattern making, grading & Marker making by software
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Plotter
10. Operator details:
Number Salary
Pattern Masters
Operators
Helpers
11. Marker efficiency (For 4 way marker)
12. Time required
Pattern making Grading Marker making
Shirt
Trouser
T shirt
13. Software lacking area
Features Select
Dart manipulation
Notch marking
Shade variation problem
Marker Efficiency
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Garment Efficiency
Solid Stripe Check Print
Level of automation Manual CAD Manual CAD Manual CAD Manual CAD
Marker Width
ShirtTrouser
T shirt
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List of companies surveyed
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NAME LOCATION1 Aval Fashion Khandsa, Gurgaon
2 Bharat Export Overseas Gurgaon
3 BL International Gurgaon
4 Blue impex Gurgaon
5 Chelsea Ltd Gurgaon
6 Fashion Club Global Gurgaon
7 Fashion Style Gurgaon
8 Graffiti Exports Gurgaon
9 Gulati Exports Gurgaon
10 ITC Ltd Gurgaon
11 Kanchan international Gurgaon12 Kokan Exports Gurgaon
13 Lasurab International Gurgaon
14 Matrix clothing (knits) Gurgaon
15 Matrix clothing (wovens) Mehrauli
16 Mona designs Okhla
17 Om Garments Okhla18 OM Exports Khanpur, Delhi
19 Orient Craft Khanpur, Delhi
20 Orient Fashions Khanpur, Delhi
21 Penex Overseas Khanpur, Delhi22 Plaza Computers Khanpur, Delhi
23 Poddar Exports Khanpur, Delhi
24 R & R Impact Pvt Ltd Mehrauli
25 Richa Exports Noida
26 Richa Exports(knits) Gurgaon
27 Richa Exports(woven) Noida
28 Rolex Hoisery Gurgaon
29 S.A.N International Kirti Nagar
30 TCNS Mayapuri
31 Theme Exports Gurgaon
32 Triburg Gurgaon33 V & S International Gurgaon
34 Vishesh International Nariana,Delhi
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Company Profile
Introduction
Tukatech provides affordable fashion design and apparel product development solutions to
the worldwide apparel and sewn goods industry. Tukatech quickly achieved world
recognition with an innovative approach to streamlining the fashion design, development
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and manufacturing processes through award winning fashion software, patternmaking and
virtual sample services, consulting, and customer support.
They are the first and leading company in the world to offer apparel product development
outsourcing (APDO) as a service to the industry. They leverage their expertise and leading
technology to streamline pattern making, sample making, and associated apparel
development processes for apparel companies worldwide.
It was founded in California in 1997 by CEO Ram Sareen, a veteran of the garment industry
who is well-known and respected for his knowledge of the apparel product development and
garment manufacturing process all over the world. With a focus on customer satisfaction
through user-friendly products, outstanding training and support, Tukatech has built an
impressive list of clientele supported by a global network of industry experts.
Their world headquarters is at Los Angeles, Canada and Asian headquarters is at Gurgaon,
Haryana.
Milestones in the growth of Tukatech
In 2000 CEO Mr. Ram Sareen was chosen as one of the 20 most influentialbusinessmen in the apparel industry by - California Apparel News.
In 2004 it was first to provide an Apparel CAD/CAM software rental program. In
this year Tukatech was also chosen as one of the 20 most influential companies in
the apparel industry - by California Apparel News.
In 2005 it was first to launch 3D virtual apparel prototyping software.
In 2006 it was ranked 8 in the Apparel Magazine Software Scorecard. In this year
Apparel CAD/CAM was also chosen by ATDC as the CAD that is to be used to
teach in all ATDC schools across India.
In 2007 it was ranked 1 in the Apparel Magazine Software Scorecard.
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In 2008 Warnaco/CK Jeans implemented Tukatechs fit forms technology across
vendors. In this same year largest exporter in India (Orient Craft) replaces all
competitive systems with Tukatech products.
Tukatech Solutions
TUKAcad
It is a powerful and user-friendly pattern making, pattern grading, and marker
making software system. Integral to fashion design, this apparel CAD software is
capable of producing anything from high-fashion couture clothing to mass produced
garments, making it the perfect solution for apparel businesses and garment
manufacturers of any size. It is easy-to-learn and has consistently been ranked as one
of the most advanced apparel CAD systems in the world. Comprehensive
audio/video help in multiple languages, automatic updates, and MS Office
integration are some of the standard features. Notable pattern making tools include;
dart manipulation, dart fullness, fabric shrinkage, pattern card creation, etc.
SMARTmark
It is a highly advanced marker making software application that works as a
TUKAcad module. It uses one of the most advanced algorithms in the industry to
get the absolute most efficient use of your material possible, in a fraction of the time
it would take a person to make the markers manually. SMARTmark can queue many
markers at a time, work automatically, do ratio or single-size markers, and use bump
lines to control markers on fabric with shade variations.
E-fit Simulator
A digital sample is a prototype on our computer that shows us how a garment is
going to look and fit before it is actually sewn. e-fit Simulator turns patterns into
digital samples that can be sent around the world through e-mail to enhance
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communication, get feedback and deliver quality samples in less time. e-fit
Simulator's digital samples do not require any fabric or sewing machine, and can be
sent instantly, at the speed of email, to anyone around the world.
e-fit Simulator software takes a digital (CAD) pattern and a set of fabric values (such
as stretch, weight, etc) and creates for you a digital sample of the garment, draped on
a 3D virtual fit model, using the latest in cloth simulation technology. Users of e-fit
Simulator provide the software with the pattern, the type of fabric and the
measurements and shape of the fit model, and the system will accurately create the
sample. The system is designed with users in mind, and is easy to learn and use.
Users can create many samples in much less time than it would take to sew and
deliver a real garment.
Tukatrack
The TUKAtrack Information Tracking System is a real-time production control and
management system that captures production events as they occur and provides
corresponding up-to-the-minute information, reports and analysis to the people who
need it to manage and make decisions. It also provides processed information to the
operators who can monitor their own performance with respect to the requirementsfromthem.
The TUKAtrack ITS System is based on the revolutionary RFID technology and
provides a low cost information gathering, management and analysis tool for
manufacturing organizations who want to use technology to be competitive in the
global market. This technology provides information from the operator level, line
level, floor level, right up to factory level. This information can be organized,
analyzed and studied for better and quicker decision making.
Tukaplan
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Apparel Tech pack and apparel PDM/ PLM module replaces e-mail attachments and
MS Excel spec sheets with efficient and effective ways of communicating, sharing
and collaborating information on a common platform accessible over the internet
from anywhere in the world.
Apparel Web PDM/ PLM is a revolutionary application for the clothing industry that
will help in streamlining fashion product development cycle. Focused on all phases
of a product's lifecycle - from style development to apparel pre-production
Tukaplan allows users and companies to collaborate with anyone within the
organization and/or with customers and suppliers during the apparel product
development and approval process.Collaboration throughout the apparel fashion life-
cycle gives an organization the power to communicate effectively & avoid errors.
Tukastudio
It is a complete fabric design software studio solution for creating all textile
components including color ways, design repeats, jacquards, plaids, yarn dyes, and
visual merchandising. This state-of-the-art software system supports single users as
well as multi-user environments.
TUKAstudios Storyboards module is where everything