Inkle Pattern DirectoryT HE W E AV E R ’S

A N N E D I X O N

400warp-faced weaves

400warp-faced weaves

t h e w e a v e r ’ s i n k l e p a t t e r n d i r e c t o r y

Warping

Originally the modern inkle loom would have been warped with one continuous single-color thread, alter-nately passing the warp thread over and then under the top peg and tying the end of the last pass onto the beginning of the warp. The main disadvantage of a single continuous warp is that the warp tends to become tighter with each successive wind, even when heddles are added (or threaded through) during warping.

Sometimes people like to emulate the continuous warping, even when using different colors—either tying on the new color at each change, or wrapping the ends of the warp threads around different nails near the front of the loom, unwrapping to continue with that color when next needed, and again tying all ends to the beginnings of the warp colors.

When several different colors or threads are used for warping the extra tying-on or securing/releasing of each new yarn, the entanglements that can ensue (resulting in crossed threads at the end of the warp), plus the tensioning problems, hardly justify strict adherence to the “original” method. The following method seeks to eradicate the disadvantages and is at least just as fast as tying-in the different threads, plus it is always easy to see exactly where to place the heddle. See page 15 for tying a knot by yourself.

These instructions assume that the first and last warp thread is a heddled thread.

•Ifthefirstwarpthreadisunheddled, start at 2 (a or b).

•Ifthelastwarpthreadisunheddled,finish with a single warp thread under the top peg.

1. Warp the first thread over the top peg, along the chosen pathway, push the thread to the frame of the loom at all points, cut off and tie securely with two or three knots. Place a heddle over the heddle peg, take the loop behind the warp thread, back down and loop over the heddle peg, with the knots under the peg.

2a. Ifthenexttwowarpthreadsarethesame,first wind one pathway under the top peg, then continue with the next over the top peg: push both warp threads to the frame of the loom at all points and tie as above. Place a heddle on the last (over peg) warp thread.

2b. Ifthenexttwowarpthreadsaredifferent,then hold both threads together and take in their correct pathway around the loom, placing the first (unheddled) thread under and the second (heddled) thread over the top peg. Push both warp threads to the frame of the loom at all points, and tie together as above. Place a heddleonthelastwarpthread.Ifyoufindthat the heddled thread is always too tight, tie the beginnings of the warp threads together and at the finish place one thread through the loop above the beginning knot and then tie the ends of the two threads together.

Repeat using either 2a or 2b.

Adding heddles as you go along is far quicker and more accurate. Warping only two threads at a time helps to reduce the tendency for the warp to tighten.

2

Loom with Heddles

Starting and Finishing

Minimum and Maximum LengthThe warp on any inkle loom has a possible minimum and maximum length, with variations between the two.

The minimum length for any warp is from the starting peg, to the joining peg, around the tensioner, and back to the starting peg, without interfering with the heddle peg.

The maximum length winds zigzag around the tensioner and all the pegs on the loom, without interfering with any of the other pegs or the pathway of the warp.

Iftheendsoftheweftareleftloose,thentheedgesofthe inkle will move outward when it is removed from the loom, making the selvedges uneven. So a secure start and finish is best.

StartingOpen one of the sheds—it doesn’t matter which—and insert a shed stick. Change the shed, push the first shed stick down to the starting peg and insert a second stick. Repeat so that there are three shed sticks in place. Change the shed once more.

Inserttheshuttlethroughtheopenshed(fromthesidethatsuitsyou)andleaveatailofthewefthangingattheside. Change the shed, beat and tug (both edges this

time). Weave both the tail and the shuttle into this next shed, then change the shed and continue weav-ing.Thetailoftheweftwillremainsecureandcanbetrimmed later.

FinishingAtthepenultimatepick,weavetheweftthroughashed, and into the SAME pick insert a loop of smooth thread with the loop at the opposite side to the shuttle.

Change the shed, beat, and tug.

Weave the shuttle through this final pick.

Cuttheweft,leavingabout8"(20cm).Inserttheveryend of this tail into the loop—not too far—so that it creates a loop clasped with the first.

Now, holding both loops gently in opposite hands, pull the clasped loops through the shed, positioning theupper(final)weftintoplace,andpullingtheweftcompletely through the previous pick.

Again, change the shed and beat.

Discardtheextraloopofthread.Theweftwillremainsecure and can be trimmed later. This saves having to darntheweftintoplaceaftertheinklehasbeencutoff the loom and is extremely secure.

There is no need to secure the ends of the inkle any further when the inkle is removed from the loom, but sometimes a decorative or braided edging is required. Remember to leave enough unwoven warp—generally braiding uses about 1½ times the finished length. See page 27 for further information.

3

t h e w e a v e r ’ s i n k l e p a t t e r n d i r e c t o r y

UH

x3

UH

x3 x3

UH

x3x3x2

UH

x2x2x2

cont’d

Vertical Lines

4

Vertical Lines

Triple

Warp: 3x2/16, dark green and pale blue

Weft: pale blue 3x2/16

All lines curve the same way

Triple: In Opposition

Warp: 3x2/16, dark green and pale blue

Weft: pale blue 3x2/16

Lines curve the opposite wayto the adjacent line

Single & Double: In Opposition

Warp: 3x2/16, pale blue and dark green

Weft: pale blue 3x2/16, pale blue

Lines curve the opposite wayto the adjacent line

Even Single & Double

Warp: 3x2/16, dark green and pale blue

Weft: pale blue 3x2/16

All lines curve the same way

Runic

5

Runic

Runic 2

Warp: 2/16, border brown striped red and orange where shown as red

Bar: cream

Weft: 2/16, brown

Alternating 3xY and inverse

Random lengths

Y shape and extra short lengths

Random

Includesshortlengthsandgaps

Random

UH

x2 x3x27

UH

x2 x26 x3

Runic 1

Warp: 2/16, border pale blue multicolor where shown as orange

Bar: brown

Weft: 2/16, pale blue

Alternate single Y shape and inverse

Length of upright (float) always 16 pick-up

Alternating 2xY and inverse

Random lengths

‘Sunrise, Sunset’ pattern completely random

For Runic technique, see page 35.

reverse of sample reverse of sample

Repp Weave

UH

x3 x3x16

t h e w e a v e r ’ s i n k l e p a t t e r n d i r e c t o r y6

Repp 1

Single Insertion Method

Warp: 2/16, dark green and cream

Thin Weft: 2/16, dark green

Thick Weft: 4 strands dark green 3x2/16 wound onto one shuttle

A.Alternatethickweftwiththinweft,weavingathinweftintoallsheds.Tochange color order in blocks, throw 2thickweftsor2thinweftsinsuccession.

Cross-Over Method

Thin Weft: 2/16, dark green

Thick Wefts: 2 shuttles each wound with 2 strands 3x2/16, dark green.

B.Alternatethickweftswiththinweft,weavingathinweftintoallsheds.Forthickweft,takeboththickshuttlesthroughtheshed, starting them from opposite sides. To change color order in blocks, throw 2 thick weftsor2thinweftsinsuccession.

B

A

UH

x3 x3x14

Pick-up, Pairs, Unheddled

7

↑Repeat

Balance

↑Repeat

Balance

Balance

↑Repeat

Balance

↑Repeat

Balance

↑Repeat

Balance

↑Repeat

Warp: 2/16 navy and lime green

Weft: 2/16 lime green

Pick-up 1 Pick-up 2

Balance

↑Repeat

↑Repeat

↑Repeat

↑Repeat

↑RepeatFor Pick-up technique, see page 47.

C

D

E

F

A

B

C

D

E

F

A

B

H

G

I

J

K

H

G

I

J

K

ContentsForewordby Madelyn van der Hoogt

Introduction

About This Book

Basic Equipment

Basic Techniques

Pattern DirectoryBasic warp color patternsWarp manipulation Pick-Up Lettering: Compensating Runic Lettering on Checks Baltic-Style South American Pebbles Monk’s Belt Krokbragd

Warp changes Additions to warp surface Auxiliary Warp Threads Scribbling Embroidery Soumak and Loops Turkish and Other Knots

Insertedauxiliary thread manipulation Gathering and Pleating Scrunching and Shibori

Weftmanipulation Dukagang Inlay

Selvedge treatments Beads Fancy Yarns ClaspedWeftsand Cross-overs Tablet Edging Fringes

Width of inkle

Finishings

Charts for Designing Your Own Inkles

Glossary

Resources

Credits

Index

Hardcover with concealed wire-o7 ½ x 9½, 176 pagesISBN978-1-59668-647-2$29.95

Available June 2012

More Than 400 Patterns for Weaving EnthusiastsFrom highly praised author and expert weaver Anne Dixon comes the ultimate resource for inkle weavers.

Anne Dixon weaves, lectures, and teaches throughout the United Kingdom and abroad. She is the author of The Handweaver’s Pattern Directory (Interweave),and has published booklets on inkle weaving, contributed articles to a number of publications, including Handwoven magazine, and exhibited both in the United Kingdom and the United States. She is a guild member of the Association of Weavers, Spinners, and Dyers and a founding member of The Braid Society.