A Beekeeping Guide 1989

7/29/2019 A Beekeeping Guide 1989

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MICROFICHEREFERENCLIBRARYA project of Volunteers in Asia

A Beekwina Gui&By: Harlan H.D. Attfield

Published by: Volunteers in Technical Assistance, Inc.1815 North Lynn Street, Ste. 200Arlington, VA 22209-2079

Available from: Volunteers in Technical Assistance, Inc.1815 North Lynn Street, Ste. 200Arlington, VA 22209-2079

Reproduced with permission.Reproduction of this microfiche document in any form is subject to the samereWictions as those of the original document.


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by .illustrated by MARINA F. MASPERA

pub1 i shed byVOLUNTEERS IN TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE, INC.

t 815 North Lynn Street, Suite 200Arlington, Virginia 22209-2079 USA


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Fourth printing, 1989ISBN: O-86619-154-2


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TABLE OF CONTENTS

'THE BEE COLON'! ..................The Queen. ...................The Drone. ...................The Worker ...................Cell ......................RELATIVES OF HONEY BEES. .............WHAT BEES NEED TO LIVE ..............Beeswax. ....................Nectar.. ...................Water. ............. ....... ,IFlowers. ....................

AHome .....................BrEttIvES .....................Eanqstroth Hive. ................Newton Hive. ..................Simple i-fives ..................

The Rock ke ot c i ant Hce , . . . . .The Little lic;e! . . . . . . . . . . .The Indirtn ikz@ . . ~ . rn . . . . . .The European Pm2 . . . ~ . ~ ~ . . .

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AIXWF VLTAVolunteers in Technical Assistance (VITA) is a private, non-profit, international development organization. VITA makesavailable to individuals and groups in developing countries avariety of information and technical resources aimed at fos-tering sc?.f sufficiency-- needs assessment and program devel-opment support: by-mail and on-site consulting services:information systems training; and management cf long-termfield projects. VITA promotes the application of simple,inexpensive technologies to solve problems and create oppor-tunities in developing countries.VITA pl;ic*>s special emphasis en the areas of agriculture andfood procesr;inq, renewable energy applications, water supplycilld :;anitntion, housing and construction, and 31~711 businessii@-"vi?opment . VL'1'A's activities are facilitated by the activeinvolvement of VITA Volunteer technical experts from aroundt_he rs:ot-ld :I& by its documentation center containing special-ize4 technical material of interest to people in developingcountries . VITA also publishes a quarterly magazine and avariety of technical papers, manuals, and bulletins. For moreinformation, write to VITA, 1815 North L.ynn Street, Suite2 II ta Arlington, Virginia 22209 USA.


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hCMOWL,EXXXENTS

This mcant~al presents cmnstt-uct ia,l details for several kindsof hives, auidelines for seloctinq sit,e:; and caring fot-hives, instruct icons for proper clothing, etc. It is based onthe experiences of the Sylhet Packaqe Program of Interna-t ional Jo 1 u n t a r y Services, Inc., a community developmenteffort in Rangladesh. Harlan H. D. Attfield, the author, hasbeen a VITA Volunteer for many years and is the author of anumber of books and articles published by VITA, inclcdingFtaisimq Rabbits.


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Keeping bees can be extremely fascinating. Et can also beprofitable. A be7innina beekeeper needs to have some kn,-wledgeof the habirs of bees, goofi locations for the beehives, and asmall amount of materials.

TEE BEE COLONYHo.:eybees live in a home of wax comb. These six-sided wax cellsa r f-2 very stronq and house the brood (immature bees) duringdevelopment and provide storage space for honey and pollen. Innature, bees usually live in a sheltered cavity, such as aho1 low tree or rock crevice. Thedrones, and workers.

colony is composed of a queen,

The QueenThere is only one queen bee inthe colony (family). As motherof thp colony, her purpose inlife is to lay eqqs. She maylay SPV~~t-B htlndrc?ci eqgs 1 none c?ay. Thesr? eqqs may hatchinto dK-WlC?S (males;), workers,or new qtlf?f?ns. 7% t? ~~~~,IE?c?IIandetermine which type of eqcgshe is going to lay. She Lafsonly the type that she feelsthe ~010ny needs.It takes sixteen da\... ;g'r theqtlf?t?n to develop f r:ll jn eqqinto an xlult. 4t,: It : z theseventh day aEter t:--t~hinq,

EN


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the queendrones. Ththough she

flies from the hive and mates with one OK moreis is the only time in her life that r;-~ queen mates,may live four to five years.

The queen is larger than the worker and longer than the drone.Her wings are shorter in proportion to her body length thanthose of the drone or worker. She has a long, taperingabdomen. When undisturbed, a mated, laying queen will usu-ally be found on or near the comb containing the eggs in thehive.

The DroneThe number of drone bees inmay be none when the bees

a colony varies seasonally. Therehave little food, but up to 1,000

during the honey-collectingseason. When the honey seasonis over and food and waterbecome scarce, the drones aredriven out of the hive todie.It takes 24 days for a droneto develop--from an egg intoan adult. The drone does ncwork in the hive. His onlyfunction in life is to matewith the virgin queen outsidethe hive. He dies aftermat: ing with her. The drone::are the only male bees in thehive.

Drones are larger and fatter than the queen or the workers.Their bodies are not as long as the queen's. The drone has ashort tongue*he uses to take food from workers and from storedhoney in the hive. He does not have legs fit to carry pollen,and he is unable to produce wax. He has no stinger to defendhimself. Children enjoy handling drones!

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The WorkerThere are 5,000 to 75,000 worker bees in a colony. They do allthe house and Eield work. Some workers qo out of the hive tobring in water, pollen, nectar, and propolis (bee glue). Otherworkers remain in the hive to guard against enemies. St;;iothers clean the hive, build wax comb, nurse the young, andcontrol the temperature of the hive. Workers eat honey to pro-duce heat in cold weather and fan their wings to keep the hivecool in hot weather.It takes 21 days for a workerto grow from an eqg into anadult. Durinq the honey-collecting period, workerslive about six weeks. Workershave special legs equippedwith pollen baskets. Theyalso have qlands that produce N6RIIERwax and the scent r.ecc?ssiirjEor carrying out their manyrlut ies. 'Workers are smallertnan either the drones or thequeen. They have a stinger, which, unlike the queens, isbarbed on the end. When a worker stings something, the stingerremains behind and the bee dies.

Cells-.The cells oE the queen, drone, and worker all differ, as shown.

QUEE;i CELLS DRONE CELL WORKER CELLS3


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RELATIVES OF BONEYBEESWasps are not bees but are sometimes mistaken for bees bypeople . (A black xasp and brown wasp are shown below.) Theirhomes are made of mud or paperlike materials. Many wasps areparasitic , laying their cqqs in or on the bodies of otherinsects or spiders. Wasps are not good for honey production.

BROWNWASP BLACKWASPSeveral kinds of bumblebees are found around the world.Although color varies a great deal, some common bumblebees areblue-black or black and yellow. They make their homes at ornear ground level, often in empty mouse nests. Like wasps, theyare not qood for honey production.Dammar bees are the smaXLesk of th? honey yielders and areknown by many people as stingless bees (Melipona spp. and---- _I_Trigona spp.). However, it is not completely correct to callthem this because they do have stingers although imperEect foruse. These bees do not sting but bite instead. They resemble ahoneybee somewhat, but are much smaller. They build their homesin the hollows of trees, rocks, walls, keyholes, and roofcracks. Al thouqh these bees store honey, the yield is toolittle to warrant keeping them.

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WRAJ! BRRS NRRD TO LIWIn order to live and produce honey, bees need the following:. Beeswax . Flowers. Nertar . Tree and flower budsl Water . A home

Beeswax

Bees need beeswax in order to make wax comb. They store honeyand pollen and raise their young in the wax comb. Workersproduce beeswax in wax glands located on the underside of theirbodies. As it is made, beeswax changes from a liquid into tinywax scales. Workers then use these wax scales to build waxcomb.Workers must eat large amounts of honey or nectar to producewax. The1 keep the hive temperature between 92" and 97F (33"and 36C) while making wax.Many beekeepers help their bees to start making wax by puttinqsheets of beeswax foundation in the wooden or bamboo frames ofthe hive (see Figure 1 on page 11). The foundation wax fitsinto hive frames and forms the base of the honeycombs. It helpsspeed up comb construction and gives the bees a pattern tofollow for building straight and easy-to-remove honeycombs.Honeycomb foundations can be ordered from bee supply companies(see notation in back of this Bulletin).

NectarIn order to make honey, bees must have nectar. Nectar is aliquid, suqary substance produced by flowers and is the rawmaterial of honey. Honey is the bees' main source of food.

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Nectar is generally one-half to three-fourths water. After theworkers carry nectar to the hive, they evaporate most of thewater to thickc-n it. They then seal the full honeycomb cel lswith a thin layer of wax.Many flowering plants make nectar, but only a few grow abun-dantly or produce enough nectar to be considered good sources.The best sources of nectar vary from place to place. As abeekeeper, you will want to know the plants in your area thatare best for honey production.The days when a good number of plants have nectar to be foragedby honeybees is called a honeyflow period. If the nectar yieldis abundant from a good number of the plants of a single kind,it is called a major honeyflower period. When the amount ofnectar plants is available in large numbers, providinq one ortwo major honeyflow periods and minor honeyflow periods duringother parts of the year, then beekeeping can be successful. Inthe best beekeeping areas, the unproductive period is not lonyin duration.The color and flavor of honey depend on the kinds of plantsfrom which bees collect nectar. Yoney may be clear, qolden, oreven brown. Its flavor can range from mild to strong.Many of us have planted various types of fruit plants near ourhomes. Mustard grown for oil-seed provides an abundant sourceof nectar and pollen, often for two or three months. The honeyis light yellow and granulates, becoming firm like sugar veryquickly.

WaterBee; must have water in order to live. Bees add water to honeybefore eating it. During hot weather, they may stop collectingfood and start collecting water to cool the hive. Some water isobtained from nectar, but a colony that cannot collect waterfrom other sources will die within a Eew days. Beekeepers oftenmaintain an open supply of water durinq dry periods.


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FlowersBees need flowers from which to collect pollen. Pollen is thepowdery material found in most flowers, which fertilizes otherflower parts to produce seeds. Nany wild flowers, weeds, trees,and aqricultural crops produce pollen that bees can use.workers place pollen in pollen baskets on their hind leqs andcarry it back to the hive. The pollen is stored as "beebread"in the cells of the honeycomb. Later it is fed to young bees.Pollen is needed before and during the honey-producing seasonso that young bees will have enough food.AS the bees move from flower to Elower, the tiny grains ofpollen stick to their bodies. This is how bees provide theirimportant service of pollination, or uniting the male andfemale parts of the flower so that seed is produced. Farmersare qreatly appreciative of this service, which increases theirproductivity.

Tree and Flower BudsIn order to make propolis, bees need tree and flower buds.Propolis is a sticky, qummy material that bees collect fromtree and flower buds. Bees use propolis to seal cracks and towaterproof the hive.

A BorneTo keep bees, you will need to provide them with a home or"hive." Bees need a place to raise their young, to build theirwax comb, and to store their pollen and nectar. They also needa hive for protection from wind, rain, heat, cold, pests, etc.Some things that should be considered when building a hive are:. The hive should be built so that. it will be easy to remove

the surplus honey.

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L After the surplus is collected, it should be easy for thebees to start storing honey again in the hive.

L After the surplus is collected, it should be easy for thebees to start storing honey again in the hive.

. The hive should be well made so that it will house the beesfor many honey-producing seasons.. The hive should be well made so that it will house the beesfor many honey-producing seasons.n There should be enough space in the hive for bees to build

new combs for brood rearing and food storage.n There should be enough space in the hive for bees to build

new combs for brood rearing and food storage.. The entrancze hole of the hive should be just big enough to

let the bees come in and go out. If the hole is too big,however, it will be difficult for the bees to defend theirstored honey from pests.

. The entrancze hole of the hive should be just big enough tolet the bees come in and go out. If the hole is too big,however, it will be difficult for the bees to defend theirstored honey from pests.

. The hive should protect the bees from cold or hot weather. Ina warm country, the hive should be placed in partial shade.. The hive should protect the bees from coldor hot weather. Ina warm country, the hive should be placed in partial shade.

. There must always be a supply of water nearby, as well as agood source of nectar and pollen within 2-3 miles..There must always be a supply of water nearby, as well as agood source of nectar and pollen within 2-3 miles.

. A hive should be placed where the bees are unlikely to stinganyone.

. A hive should be placed where the bees are unlikely to stinganyone.

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BEEEIVESMany types of beehives are used by beekeepers all over theworld. The hive used will depend on materials available in thearea. Some materials that beehives can be made of are:. Wood.. Straw woven into rope that is twisted around in a circle or

square to make the beehive.* Large rectangular cans such as empty kerosene tins.. Tree trunks, which are cut into sections and hollowed out.. Clay or mud jars.. Bamboo or woven reeds coated with clay or mud.Wooden hives are used by many beekeepers throughout the world.If you want to build your own wooden-frame hive, you can usethe plans and dimensions in this Bulletin. Make all partsexactly the same and keep all dimensions the same, so that theparts will fit together well and can be easily interchangedwith the parts of other hives.Of special importance is the space left between the frames,floor (bottom board), wells, and cover inside the hive. Formost beehives, this "bee space" is 0.96cm (l/4") (see Fiqure 9,paw 18, "side view"). If the space is less, the bees will notbe able to pass through, and they will seal it up withpropolis. If the space is wider than 0.96cm (l/4"), the beeswill build honeycombs in it. Neither of these conditions isgood for the beekeeper.There are many types of wooden-frame beehives throughout theworld. The two most popular ones for use with bees of the sizeof the Indian bee are the Langstroth and Newton types shown in

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this Rulletin. Althouqh these hives differ in size, both havebasically the same parts.

Langstroth RiveFigure 1 shows the Lanqstroth hive and its parts as follows:1. Bottom board. This is the floor of the beehive and can be

made by using a piece of wood 55.88cm lonq X 41.28:m wide X1.91cm thick (22" X 16-l/4" X 3/4"), or by joining twowooden boards toqether and nailing them in position.Alonq the bottom edge of both sides is nailed a wooden strip55.88cm X 1.9lcm X 1.27cm (22" X 3/4" X l/2"): and anotherwooden strip 37.46cm X 1.91cm X 1.27cm (14-3/4 X 3/4 Xl/2") is nailed along the back edge.The front is provided with another strip of wood that is37.47cm X 1.91cm X 1.27cm (l4-3/4* X 3/4 X l/2") and has anentrance 7.62cm long X 0.97cm in height (3" X 3/8"). Ifnecessary, the entrance openinq can be made larger.

2. Brood chamber. This provides space for eggs and broodalthough sometimes the queen will lay eggs in a few combs inthe honey super. The brood chamber is a rectangular boxwithout a top or bottom and is made of 1.9lcm (3/4) thickwood.Its length on the outside is 50.80cm (20") and on the inside46.99cm (18-l/2"); its width on the outside is 41.28cm(16-3/4") and on the inside 37.47cm (14-3/4): and itsheight is 24.46cm (9-S/8"). A rabbet (shelf) 1.27cm (l/2")deep and 0.97cm (3/8") wide is cut along the entire insidetop edge of both width boards. The "side view" of Figure 9(see page 18) shows how the wooden frames rest on thisshelf.

3. Honey super. This is the storage area for surplus honey.Wooden frames support the wax comb. More honey supers areadded to the hive if the bees need more space.

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~------16;-,--- II. ----=

Figure 1. Lanqstroth beehive

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The dimensions : the super and the super frames should bethe exact Sl of the brood chamber and brood chamberframes.

4. Wooden franc)--^ [for brood chamber and honey super]. Nineframes are usually used in each brood chamber and honeysuper, although each is capable of holding ten frames each.This extra space makes it easy to move the frames aroundwhen inspecting the hive or to take the frames out whenextracting honey. Once the nine frames are filled, most bee-keepers usually add the 10th. By this time, there is lessneed for routine examinations of the frames.~i,rtire 2 shows the staple-spaced frame. Frames should be7 ;!? from good, clean lumber. The frames must be carefully;rIa* .-.. . . . . .-...-.. y+ : 0

I 8-+ I+- i . ------. --..*--I.. /g=..._-_.- . _._ * ._. -r11i:;i w

Figure 2. Lanqstroth frame

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The frames can be wired so they will support wax comb orsheets of wax foundation. This can be done by drilling threeor four holes in each side bar and then stringing tinnedwire (28 gauge) tightly through the holes (see Figure 3).Good wiring prevents the

foundation and combs fromsagging and allows the bee-keeper to handle the combs atany time. If beeswax founda-tion sheets are available,they should be used. Combsbuilt on foundation sheetsare very sturdy. Brood combsand honey super combs can beused for several years andare very important to theFigure 3. Sheet of modern beekeeper. Wax founda-

foundation wax tion sheets are attached towired frames by dripping athin layer of melted beeswax along each wire and pressing to

the foundation sheet. Wax foundation sheets can be attachedto LJdires with a small tool calledFi;l;re 4).The spur embedder is heated inhot water and then rolled alongeach wire, which is pressed tothe foundation sheet. The hot,metal "wheel" aE the spur embed-der melts the wax Eoundation allalong the length sf each wire.The melted wax foundation quick-ly cools Jeaving the sheet nice-ly secured in the frame. To makethe job of wire-embedding easi-er, many beekeepers start byfastening an edge of the founda-tion sheet with melted (heated)beeswax in the groove on the

the "spur embedder" (see

lower side of the top bar. Figure 4. Spur wire-embedder


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Figure 2 shows this groove. If the frame is used again, thegroove may be cleaned with a nail or piece of hard wire. Newfoundations are now available that have built-in reinforce-ment and requires no wire. If wax foundation is not avail-able, pieces of old comb from a wild hive can be tied to theframes to help the bees start storing honey and rearingbrood (see Figure 5).

Fiqure 5. Tying old comb to a frameDimensions for the staple-spaced frame are:. EoKbar: 48.26cm long X 2.44cm wide X 1.91cm thick (19" X

1 'l X--T/4"). It is cut to 0.97cm (3/a") thickness on both

Figure 6. Staple-spaced frame

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ends for a length of 2.f4cm(1"). It has a groove in themiddle of its lower side foraffixing the comb foundationsheet. Two 1.60cm 1 S/8)staples or "U-nails" shouldbe driven in the top bar onits opposite sides, at oppo-site ends, leaving only0.97cm (3/a") of each U-nail021 staple on the outside.This will allow for a 0.97cm(3/B") spacing betweenframes (see Figure 6).


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5.

6.

7.

. Side bar: Each is made of 0.97cm (318") thick wood and is22.23cm (8-3/4") long and 2.54cm (1") wide. There are fourholes in each side bar for wiring the frames (see Figure2, page 12). These holes should be drilled before assem-bling the frame.

. Bottom bar: 43.18cm long X 2.54cm wide X 0.97cm thick (17"x 1" X 3/8").

Inner cover. This helps insulate the bees from heat andcold. It also keeps bees from building comb and propolisunder the outside cover. The inner cover is made from wood,fiber mat, or jute sackcloth cut to the same length andwidth as the honey super.Outside cover. This protects the frames and supers under-neath. -A flat-top cover can be made of 0.97cm (3/8") thickboards nailed to a rectangular frame 5.08cm (2") high, allcovered with galvanized sheet metal, tar paper, or otherwaterproof mak.


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protect their home from ants and other insect pests. Figure 7shows a pole stand. The pole is made with a log about 10.16cm(4") in diameter and wellsoaked in wood preservative(soliqnum) or a mixture ofequal parts old crankcase oilfrom the petrol station andkerosene or paint thinner. Itis then buried in the qroundleaving 30.48cm ( 12) abovethe ground. 4 board (alsosoaked in wood preservative)40.64 X 30.48cm (16 X 12)is nailed or screwed in placeon the top of the 109. Thehive is placed on thisplatform and sometimes tieddown with ropes to preventdisturbances. Figure 7. Pole standFigure 8 shows a beehive raised 22.86~111 (9") off the ground byusing simple leg stand. Stands should be made strong and holdthe hive in a level position.

Figure 8. Leg stand

Try to make your beehives fromlight, well-seasoned, goodqua1 ity wood. The wood shouldnot have too strong a smell.The outside wood of the hiveshould be bainted with a light-colored exterior paint to pro-tect the wood from weatheringtoo quickly. A mixture of equalparts of old crankcase oil andkerosene can be used as "paint"for the outside of the bee-hive. If possible, glue allhive parts together with awaterproof glue before nailingsecurely.

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2. Brood chamber. This is a box without top and bottom and madeof 2.24cm (7/8) thick wood with outer dimensions 28.27cm X27.3lcm X 16.2lcm (11-l/8 X lo-3/4" X 6-3/8") and innerdimensions 23.83cm X 22.86~~1 X 16.21cm (g-3/8" X 9" X6-3/8). A groove shelf 1.27cm deep X 0.97cm wide (l/2" X3/8") is cut along the entire inside top edge of both widthboards. The "side view" shows how the frames rest on thisshelf.

Newton HiveThe Newton hive is smaller than the Langstroth type and allowsthe bees to control the temperature in the hive with lesseffort. Small colonies in large hives may have their broodchilled during cold winter nights and early mornings. The bileswill leave the outer frames and upper frames to cluster in atiqht mass in the center of the brood chamber.It should be remembered when selecting a beehive design that ahive is merely the tool of the beekeeper. A proper system ofmanaqement can make one kind equally as successful as another.Fiqure 9 shows the dimensions for the parts to the Newton hive,as follows:1. Bottom board. This is made of wooden planks the same widthas and 10.16cm (4") longer than the brood chamber. Wooden

strips 1.27cm X 2.24cm (l/2" X 7/8") are nailed along theback edge and two side edges. The front is provided withanother strip of wood and has an entrance 8.89cm X 0.97cm(3-l/2 X 318). Although seldom necessary, the entranceopening can be made larger by removing the wooden strip.

The brood chamber provides space for e9g s and brood,although sometimes the queen will lay eggs in a few combs inthe honey super. The brood chamber and honey super areexactly the same size.

3. Honey super. This is the storage area for surplus honey.Wooden frames support the wax comb. More honey supers are

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, _ _ - ,_ _ - , . _ . I_ . I ,,,

n

-SWWV-I I----___-_------

front view

Figure 9. Newton hive

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--

added to the hive if the bees need more space. Abe dimen-sions of the super and the super frame should be the same asthose for the brood chamber and brood chamber frames.

4. Wooden frames Ifor brood chamber and honey super?. Seven_--frames are usually used in each brood chamber and honeysuper. The brood chamber can be used with six frames and onedivision board (see Figure 10). The division board is a

Figore 10. Newton hive frameand division board

wooden partition that serves as a movable wall and is USedto reduce the space inside the brood chamber S,J that bees

andthe

can keep the brood warm and well protectedperiods of cold. from pestsThe frames can be wired by follocJin9steps given for the Langstroth frame on page 12.The dimensions for the Newton staple-spaced frame Snd dsion board are as follows:

ivi-

. Top bar:_.- --- 25.4cm long X 2.24cm wide X 1=27cm thicK (10 X7/8 x 1/29. It is cut to 0.64cm (l/4") thickness on bothsides for a length of 2.06cm (13/16"). It has 3 groovein the middle of its lower side for affixing the comb

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foundation sheet. Two 1.60cm(S/SW) staples or WU-nails"should be driven in the topbar on its opposite sides,at opposite ends (see Figurell), so that the framesFigure 11, Staple placement stand 0.97cm (3/8) apart.

. Side bar: Each is l3.97cm long X 2.24cm wide X 0.64cmthick (5-l/2" X 7/8" X l/4"). There are two or three holesin each side bar for wiring the frames (see Figure 12).These holes should be drilled before assembling the frame.

, -x ---t*g --->

7 , i:'---'tC-- 4-v-

; ----_---_ ,* --^-..---_ 4Top bar

6

/ - 2;. _ ___ ____ -*5- - - - - - - -=, I 80 IBott6m bar

Figure 12, Newton frame

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5.

6.

7.

* Bottom bar: 22.56cm long X 2.24cm wide X 0.64cm thick(8-?/8" X 7,'8" X l/4").

Inner cover. This helps insulate-- the bees from heat andcold. It also keeps bees from building comb and propolisunder the outside cover. The inner cover is made from wood,fiber mat, or jute sackcloth--cut to the same length andwidth as the honey super.Outside cover.-- This protects the frames and supers under-neath. Many beekeepers prefer a sloping cover_, as shown inFigurn 9, page 18, because it sheds rainwater quickly. Itusually is made to fit loosely over the hive and is providedwith a 1 screened ventilation hole on the front and back.In the simple, Flat top coverI-._____.- --,- shown in Figure 1, page 11 Iboards, 0.97em (3/8) thick, are nailed to two strips ofwood made to overlap the front and back top-edge of thehoney super. The full outside length of the cover is 33.34cm(13-l/8) and 28.27cm (11--3/S) between the inside edges ofthe two wood strips. hny cracks in the cover should befilled neatly from the outside with coal tar, putty, clay,or other type of wood sealer.t!dndles.._-__-_.- For ease in hand1 inq, one handle should be placedin tht? center of each side OF the brood chamber or honeysuper--a total of four handles on each chamber or surer.

Beehives should be 131 ced on StCltldS off the cyround like the0ne.s decribed for the Lanqst roth hive on page 16. Stands shou Ldbi? made_ strc?ncj and shuld hold the hive in a level (or sliqhtlyslanted forward) position.It is suggested that the hives be made from light, well sea-soned, qood quality wood. The outside of the hive should bepainted with a lrqht-colored, exterior paint to prevent theWOOd from weathering too quickly. A mixture of equal parts ofold crankcase oil and lcerosene can be applied as paint for

3ossible, all hive parts should belue before being nailed securely.

the outside of the hive. If 1assembled with a waterproof q

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Simple BivesSimple, or single body, beehives are combinations of broodchamber and honey super. The queen will tend to lay her eggs ina concentrated circle, leaving the bordering areas for honeystorage. These hives are only practical in regions &here thereis no nectarless seasons. Areas with nectarless seasons requirebeehives where honey can be stored to support the bees.There are many kinds of simple hives the beekeeper can make,depending upon available material. Several types are shownbelow.Figure 13 shows a kerosene tin hive fitted with staple-spaced-Prames or transitional frames (see Figure 14). The transitionalframe is similar to the staple-spaced frame but uses half sidebars, saving the cost of bottom bars and half af the sidebars. Thus, the cost of the frame is reduced by nearly half andthe use of wires is not necessary. Bees will build straightcomb as far down as they can, but great care must be taken notto break the comb through improper handling.

UFigure 13. Kerosene tin hive

Figure 14. Transitional frame

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The tree trunk hive canbe used when a colonyof bees are foundliving in the trunk ofa dead tree. If thetree is not too large,the section holdinq thecolony can be cut outand secured to astand, Supers can beadded to the top as thebees need more spacefor honey storaqe (seeFigure 15).

Figure 15. Tree trunk hive

The transwoven hive is made of bamboo or woven reeds and isoften coated with clay or mud. This hive (see Figure 16) can be

used with full staple-spaced frames or transi-tional frames withNewton hive dimensions( see page 20). Thesehives are simple tomake, but last only fora few honey seasonsbecause the materialweakens with age.

Figure 16, Transwoven hive

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SOHE SIMPLE EQUIPHKNT NEEDED FOR BEEKEEPINGA beginning beekeeper will need some simple equipment to helphis work with the bees and to protect him from bee stings. Theequipment needed can be seen in Figure 17.

Hat with nettia._I-. This is used to protect the neck and facefrom bee stings. A veil can be made from any wide-brimmedhat and a piece of mosquito netting or wire screening,45.72cm II8l) wide and as long as the circumference of thehat brim. After this has been sewn into a cylinc3er, it issewn to the hat. At the back center of the netting are sewntwo tapes0 each 139.16cm (14) lonq. At the front are sewncurtain rings about 20.32cm (8) apart.When the veil is put on, the tapes are passed under the armsand tt~rouqh the rinqs. Pcrllinil the tapes tiqht pulls thec!dqe of the n~?ttinq tight csclainst the shoulders. The remain-ing taFC? is pa ssed back under the arms to stretch the f rantflat and is then brcught, again, to the front to be tieA.

3. Smoker. This_--- ---- ^ is r~serf to distract the bees. When worker beesSrntsE . smoke 0 they fill thoms+lves with hoxey. It is diffi-cult For 3 bee with a full stomach to sting because itcannot daub le up . tight puffs of smoke at the entrance andOR tap of the opened hive are usually snouijh.Srrme heekc?eper s IISC? a straw torch and blow smoke into the!-I v c? This is not good because burnt grass is also I9li9wn

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-

Figure 17. Proper equipment for beekeeping

2s

1


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into the combs makinq the honey dirty. The hot embers couldsinge the bees making them more apt to sting.In most countries a smoker is used in which the burningmaterial is contained inside. Figure 18 shows a smoker witha bellows attached, while Figure 19 shows a more simplesmoker made from a round tin and a couple of pieces of metaltubing. The beekeeper must use the tube to blow smoke fromthe tin. The longer end should be wrapped with a iayer ofcloth so it does not get too hot.

Figure 18, Bellow smoker

Figure 19. Can smoker

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The best material to burn in the smoker is old, dry sackinghe best material to burn in the smoker is old, dry sackingor rotten wood,r rotten wood, since these burn slowly and give off a coolince these burn slowly and give off a coolsmoke.moke. Rags,ags, cotton waste,otton waste, wood shavings, cowdung, driedood shavings, cowdung, driedcorn cobs,orn cobs, and dry leaves also make good fuel for thend dry leaves also make good fuel for thesmoker.moker.The mater ial should be lighted nearest the longer mouthpiecehe material should be lighted nearest the longer mouthpiecetube so that the smoke is filtered through the unburnedube so that the smoke is filtered through the unburnedfuel.uel.

4. Hive tool. This helps to pry apart the hive boxes and. Hive tool. This helps to pry apart the hive boxes andframes.rames. It can be purchased from a bee equipment company ort can be purchased from a bee equipment company ormade by the beekeeper from an old truck "leaf-spring" cut toade by the beekeeper from an old truck "leaf-spring" cut to20.32cm or 25.40cm (8" or 10").0.32cm or 25.40cm (8" or 10"). The sharp edge is used forhe sharp edge is used forscraping wax and oropolis from inside the hive.craping wax and oropolis from inside the hive.

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BOW TO NOVE BEES INTO A NEW HIVEOnce a source of bees has been found, they will have to bemoved into the hive. Bees are best moved when they are swarm-ing. Swarming is a process of producing a new colony. Bees usu-ally start swarming when a colony has become overcrowded justbefore the honey season. Bees may also swarm or leave the hivewhen food sources or water become scarce, when there are smallfood reserves in the hive, or when the hive is destroyed.

Before the bees swarm, the queen lays a single fertile egg ineach of the prepared queen cells. She then leaves the hive,with about half the bees, in search of a new home. The remain-ing bees in the hive wait for a new queen to mature. The newqueen mates with the drones and the colony life goes on.Swarms may be found hanging on tree limbs or under overhangs ofbuildings. Once a swarm is located, it should be caught immedi-ately and transferred to a hive. Figure 20 shows a swarm ofbees that have landed on a tree limb. With a hard shake, thebees are knocked into the beekeeper's basket and then shakeninto the brood chamber of an empty hive.Bees in a swarm seldom sting, but a face net and smoker willmake the transfer safer.A soucce of bees may be transEerred from a tree, house, or oldhive to a new hive. The best time to transfer these bees isduring the honey season.One way to transfer bees to a new hive from a tree or buildingis to first get the smoker ready and be sure to wear properclothing. Then use the smoker continuously and make noise byhitting the tree or building with a board or hammer. Soon aswarm should come out of the old hive. They will collect on anearby tree limb or other object. The old comb may be cut outand sections of it tied into a frame with string. The swarm is

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I Figure 20. Collectinq a swarm


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then shaken into the new hive and left undidays. It will not take long for the bees tothe frame with wax comb and begin storingyoung.

.sturbed fo r afill the restfood and rais

fewof

ing


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The best time for inspecting the colony is a bright, sunny dayI -hen the bees are working normally. Bees should not be dis-turbed on cold, rainy, or windy days or at night.INSPECTING THE COLONYNSPECTING THE COLONYThe best time for inspecting the colony is a bright, sunny daywhen the bees are working normally. Bees should not be dis-turbed on cold, rainy, or windy days or at night.After lighting the smoker, the hive should be approached fromthe side to avoid blocking the bees' entrance. A few puffs ofsmoke should be given at the entrance. The inner cover shouldbe lifted a little with the hive tool, and smoke blown into thehive, and the inner cover replaced. After a few moments, theinner cover should be removed and placed upside down againstthe hive. The frames should be pried apart with the hive tool,taken out, and examined one by one. They should be handledcarefully over the open hive and turned as shown in Figure 21.During this work, the queen should always be kept in mind. Theframe on which she is located should be placed back in the hiveearly. The frames should be handled gently and crushing thebees should be avoided.If you should be stung by a bee, the sharp edge of a hive toolor fingernail should be used to take out the stinger as quicklyas possible. Never squeeze it out with your finger tips. Rub-bing only causes more irritation. Some persons are allergic tobee stings. If stung by even a sinqle bee, they develop a rashover their body and have difficulty breathing. They shouldn'tgo mar hives. For most. people, however, pain is felt for onlya few minutes, with any swelling lasting for just a short time.After inspection of the colony is finished, all the hive partsshould be carefully returned to their oroper places. Openinqthe hive too often will upset the life of the colony and couldcause them to abandon their home in search of a quieter placeto live.When inspecting a hive, look carefully for pests and removethem from the hive.

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Figure 21, The correct way to handle a frame


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HELPING A COLONY HAKE UORE HONEYThere are many things that can be done to help bees make morehoney. Experience will make the beekeeper more aware of ways toincrease honey production. A few ways to make beekeeping asuccess are listed below:1. Do not keep colonies that are mean and hard to handle. Keep~-only those colonies that are calm and quiet, produce lots of

honey, swarm little, and defend their hives against moths,wax beetles, ants (see Figures 22 through 251, and robberbees from other hives.

Figure 22. Lesser wax llloth Figure 23. "Death'sHead Moth

Figure 24. Wax beetle

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Figure 25. Ant


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2. Prevent swarming. About one-half of the bees are lost when-----___ ---they swarm. A crowded brood chamber is one of the maincauses of swarming. Always make sure that bees have enoughroom in the brood chamber and honey super by adding addi-tional brood boxes or supers before current ones are cDm-pletely filled.

3. Locate hives properly. Hives.I__-- should be placed near goodsources of nectar, pollen, and water. The hives should beprotected from direct wind and hard rains.

4. Time12 visits.---- __-- Getting a good honey crop is a year-roundjob. Bee colonies should be checked every month (except dur-ing cold winter days) Eor honey anti pollen supply, popula-tion, and condition of the queen and brood.

5. Remove__eests from the hive.^----_- -- -.-- .-_--- -._-__ -- The most serious pests are thosethat come to breed in the hive, like some kinds of beetlesand moths. These pests will lay their eggs in any combs notdeEended by the bees. The iarvae (grub, worm-like youny)feed on pollen and other food in the cells, chewing largeholes and tunnels in the combs.

The legs of hive stands can be made antproof with an applica-tion of sticky qrease or "tanqle-foot." Care must always betaken to prevent weeds and grass Erom growing up under thehives. Sometimes birds (Fiqures 26 and 27) will be noticedcatching bees in the air and eatinq them. Usually the number oEbees lost this way is not a serious problem to the beekeeper.Beekeeper>; in other countries have been known to shoot thesebirds or trtlp them with thin nets stretched high in the air.

Figure 26. Bee eater Figure 27. King crow

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..,3AT TO DO BEFORE TBE BONEYFLOWTo make a good job of beekeeping, make sure your colonies are

~ "humming" with young bees at the time of the honeyflow. Youngbees are the best gatherers of honey and pollen.The times of major and minor honeyflows vary from place toplace. A successful beekeeper must learn to adjust hive manage-ment to seasonal changes in the life of the colony.

First-year SwarmsA swarm captured shortly before the major honeyflow and placedin a new beehive will probably use most of the honey they makeId combs for brood iearing ard honey storage. Th e col-onys honey stores should not fall below three kiloqrams (kg)

lbs) or about 2 f ull frames.

the BoneyflowExamine each beehive and clean the inside of pests and dirt. Ifa colony is below average strength, it can be helped by addinga frame or two of capped (sealed) worker brood from a strongercolony. Another qood practice i.; to make the strenqth of allcolonies equal, so they all require your attention at about thesame time, and respond equally to one kind of treatment. Newcolonies should be fed a 50% sugar solution until the honeyflowbegins.

Prevent SwarmingGenerally the swarming season comes just before the majorhoneyflow. Swarming is the colony's way of satisfying itsnatural urge to reproduce itself. By this method, the number ofbee colonies is increased. The desire to swarm varies among

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different colonies of bees. Swarming can be caused by an onrushof a sudden honeyflow, the sudden failure of the queen to layeggs, a hot or poorly ventilated beehive, lack of space for egglaying and honey storage, and honeycombs in the worker broodarea. If the bees feel crowded, they will surely swarm--orworse, desert the brood and beehive completely. Be sure to keepbeehives in the shade and t if necessary, make the entranceopening to the hive larger during hot periods. If the beescluster at the entrance on warm nights, it could mean they arefeeling crowded and need more frames or supers, although thisis normal in a busy hive.The natural order of the frames in the brood chamber should notbe disturbed. Only poor, irregular combs, or combs filled withdrones, should he removed. Combs of drones should be placed inthe honey super or outside the frames containing brood. In thisway these frames will not act as barriers to the queen as shemoves from one frame to another.Frames in the brood chamber filled with honey and pollen shouldbe moved to the outside of the brood area or into supersabove. The frames should be carefully arranged with your fin-gers and spaced evenly apart. Prevent crowding by giving thebees enough well-drawn combs for brood rearing and honeystorage.Some beekeepers feed their weak colonies a suqar-water mixtureof l/2 sugar and l/2 water to encouraye them to rear morebrood. A bee feeder is easy to make. All that is needed is asmall container-- a tin or qlass jar--with a removable lid. Tinyholes are made in the lid. The sugar-water mixture is placed inthe container and the lid is replaced. The container is thenturned upside down and placed on the top of the inner roof holeinside the hive. An extra brood box without any frames isplaced over the feeder and topped with the outer roof. Thisprevents the buiIding of combs above the frames. The bees willgo under the container and extract the sugar-water from thetiny holes in the lid. Feeding should be done with care, asthis often causes robbers from other colonies to attack theweaker colonies having cans of sugar-water.

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WEfAT TO DO DURING TEE HONEYFLOWAs nectar and pollen are being placed in the beehive, try toremain ahead of the bees in giving more frames and supers. Thesecond super should be added between the first super and thebrood chamber, not directly above the first super. Additionalsupers may be added in the same way, just above the broodchamber and below the other supers.Colonies should be examined once a week. Frames full of honeyare removed to the sides of the brood chamber or placed in thehoney super. New frames with wax foundation should be placednext to the frames containing brood but not between broodframes where they will act as barriers to the queen.When the honevflow beqins to slow down, the frames containinqcapped honey are removed. harvestinq must start while the beesare still brinqinq in nectar, otherwise robbinq of weak colon-ies by stronger ones may beqin. Such lawlessness in the bee-keeper's apiary (the place where beehives are kept) will oftencause a week colony to desert the beehive, leaving the brood todie. When selcctinq frames of honey, be sure not to take combsthat are not yet sealed with wax. This honey has not fullyripened and still contains too much water. Honey of this typewill ferment quickly and should be avoided. When harvesting thecrop, take out a frame of filled honeycomb and hold it near theentrance of the hive to shake or brush off the bees. The framesof honey are plaecd in covered empty supers and taken away forextrsctinq (emptyinq the combs of honey). When the honeyflowhas finished, unnecessary supers are removed, and the bees 1eEtwith a proper store of honey to last until the next honeyflowbeqins.

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BARVESTING TRB CROPS (XONEY AND BEESWAX)Beekeepers usually measure honey production in kilograms orpounds. The yearly production of surplus honey varies dependingon the strength of the colony and the region where thebeekeeping is takinq place.Probably the most efficient way to get honey out of the comb isto uncap, or remove, the thin cells covers with a warm knifeand spin out the liquid honey with a honey extractor (seeFigure 28). The honey extractor is made with a drum and basketfittinq inside that holds two or four wooden frames. The honeyis neatly removed and the combs returned to the hive to berefilled with more honey.

Figure 28. Fioney extractor

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It may be too expensive to buy or make an extractor for theamount of honey produced by a few colonies. Several nearbybeekeepers might like to share this expense,A less expensive (but wasteful) way to harvest liquid honey isto cut out the entire comb (leaving a 2.54~~1 [l"] strip alongthe top), squeeze the honey from it, and then strain the honeythrough a coarse cloth (jute sackcloth) to remove wax particles(see Figure 29). Although the crushed comb cannot be used againby the bees, you can melt it and sell the beeswax.

Figure 29. Squeezing out honey

The beginner can melt and clean wax in a large tub or pot. Thebits of wax and comb material should be put in the tub or potand covered with water. The container should be on a sturdy,

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fireproof stand so a fire can be built underneath it. Heat thewater until it boils. The beeswax will rise to the top of thecontainer. Do not let the water boil over the top of the con-tainer since the hot wax will burn.When the wax is completely melted, strain the mixture through apiece of jute sackcloth or screen wiring. This will remove anyremaininq large particles. If the mixture is strained into apail that is larger at the top than at the bottom, the wax cakecan be removed easily after it cools and hardens. Pure wax willbe on the top- Unwanted particles at the bottom of the cake canbe removed by trimming and scraping. it can then be used tomake candles or sold in the market.

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APPENDIX

SPECIES AND VARIETIES OF BEES

Honeybees are the most widely studied insects in the world.There are many types of honeybees throuqhout the world and manydifferences between them. Local universities, extension aqents,or experienced villagers can help a beqinninq beekeeper deter-mine which types of bees are best for their area. They can alsogive advice on proper management techniques for each type.

THE ROCK BEE or GIANT BEE ( 1Rock bee colonies move Erom place to place to avoid extremecold or in search of honey plants and water. They fly fairlyhigh and fast and make a sound similar to, but fainter, thanthat of a passing airplane. This sound is sometimes heard byfarmers working in their fields.

A rock bee colony builds a single large comb fastened to thebranches of tall trees. Sometimes the comb may be seen hangingfrom roofs or ceilings of neglected buildings. Sometimes manycolonies of the rack bees are found living close together.The worker is light brown in color while the queen is darkerand lonqer. The drone is black in color and is the same size asa worker.Rock bees are good honey gatherers and have been seen to beginthe day's work earlier and stop later than the Indian bees.They store surplus honey, usually in the front portion of thecomb, which is harvested two or three times during the year byprofessional honey gatherers. A single colony may yield up to35kq (77 lbs) of honey during a year.

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Unfortunately, rock bees have ferocious tempers and have beenknown to attack people and animals when disturbed or excited.They are, however, controllable with smoke and are as success-fully managed in this way as any other species of honeybee.ProEessional honey qatherers and modern beekeepers are able tohandle them with little difficulty. Some beekeepers have triedto keep rock bees in box hives, but the bees prefer their homesin high places and soon leave after a few days,

TEE LITTLE BEE (Apis florea)These bees move about often and seldom remain at one place formore than five months at a time. They make a single small combabout the size of the palm of! the hand. The comb can be foundhanging from branches of bushes, trees, empty boxes, piles ofdried sticks, or the ceilings of buildings.The workers are very noticeable. The portion of the bee's bodyjust behind the legs and wings is bright orange, with black andwhite stripes near its end. These workers are much smaller thanthe golden brown queen and black drones with smoky qrey hair.Although little bees are more qentle than rock bees, theirsmall comb yields only O.5-lkq (l-2 lb), and they prefer toremain in the wild.THE INDIAN BE% (ApisThis is the best bee for producing honey and can easily behoused in wooden boxes, packing crates, kerosene tins, earthenjars, and wall recesses. Unlike its rock bee and little beesisters, the Indian bee makes several combs for storing honey.There are several reqional varieties or strains of the Indianbee. Two common strains are the hili and plains varieties. Theworker bees of the plains variety are comparatively smaller andhave a deeper yellow color. At hiqher altitudes larger anddarker bees are found.

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The habits of this bee vary from strain to strain. Generallyspeaking, it is a bee with a gentle temper and is easy tohandle even by the beqinner. It responds to smoking; but inseveral cases, bees showed a little uneasiness.On the average, colonies yield 3-5kg (7-11 lbs) of honey eachyear at higher altittides and 1-3kq (2.2-7 lbs) each year on theplains. Experienced beekeepers in other parts o f Asia haverecorded yields of 13-1Ekg (29-40 lbs) of honey per year usingspecial, movabie frame hives, described in this Bulletin. Bycontinually selectinq the best honey-producing colonies anddiscarding all the rest, some experienced beekeepers have hadhives yieldinq as much as 25-40kq (55-88 1b.s) in one year. Thisrequires much skill and a location where the bees will findqood honey plants.The Indian honeybee is a good producer but has a few defects tokeep in mind. Sometimes colonies will leave the hives of thebeekeeper and return to living in the wild. At other times, astronq colony will rob the honey from weaker hives in thebeekeeper's yard causinq its death. In addition, the bees uselittle propolis and are often helpless against certain types ofwax-moth, which enter the hives and damage the combs.

TRE EUROPEAN BEE (Apis mellifera)--_I_-This bee is worth learning about because of the large amount ofhoney it is able to produce. Average yields of 44-180kq (99-396lbs) per colony in groups of 500 or more colonies are common inthe IJnited States. The best yield recorded to date is that of45.3kq (100 tbs) from a colony in the USA.The European bee is found all over Europe and has a largenumber of well recoqnized varieties and strains. The Italianvariety is considered to be the best and has been introduced inalmost all countries of the world. It is similar in habits tothe Indian bee in that it makes its home in enclosed places andbuilds several combs for storing honey. Queens are qood layers;the bees have gentle tempers, qood honey-gathering habits, and

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guard their home against all bee enemies except wasps. I t hasadapted itself particularly well to the movable-frame hive andmodern methods of management. Man has even developed specialstrains for gentle temperament, honey gathering, pollination,and other qualities. fImportation of the European bee should be restricted to wellequipped Government-sponsored establishments with quarantinearrangements. Private beekeepers are urged not to importforeign bees to avoid several. bee diseases, which are commonamong bees available in Europe a;ld America.

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First Lessons in Beekeeping, Dadant & Sons: Inc.___-Rearing Queen Honeybees, Roger A Morse, Wicwas Press, 1979.-Beekeepingr B. R. Saubolle and A. Bachmann, Sahayogi Prakashan,

1979.

INFORHATION AND MATERIALSAll India Reekeepers' Association, 424 8, Shaniwar Peth, Poona,2 India.International Agency for Agriculture Development, 3201 IiuffmanBoulevard, Rockford, Illinois 61103 USA.

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PRODUCTION IDGS


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HONEY FMW=--- --HIVE #----__------------------ ---------------------------------------DATE--------------------I___ ----I------------_---------------------LOCATION------------------------ ----------------_----------------------QUANTITY--------------------__I_ ---------------------------------------COMMENTS

-HIVE tDATELOCATION -------------------QUANTITYCOMPiENTS-------___--sl_l-------.---- m-e---- _------_---------,--------1~~1~1-----------HIVE #---~--------------------- 1-w---------------.-DATE----,----------------__I_ ----------I--------LOCATION------------------------QUANTITY------------------------COMMENTS__---l-___--___-- ------ p-w;:_- ----HIVE %-----------------I------DATE--------------------__I_LOCATION ----I--------------QUANTITY-^----------------------COMMENTS-l----ll----_-_I_-- ---__---HIVE # --------------------DATELOCATIONQUANTITYCOMMENTS


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- iHIVE #----~-------------------r-------------------------------------------DATE--------------------________________c___------------------------LOCATION--------------------________________^___------------------------QUANTITY--------------------___I________________------------------------COMMENTS

- -HIVE: #DATELOCATIONQUANTITYCOMMENTS--~--------__- ---1- ----z-x------ -----_----l____----~_----~------HIVE # -L-----------------DATELOCATIONQUANTITYCOMXENTS- - ---~-----I-- --__---__---__---__-----HIVE 4 -------------------DATE ------s.-------.a-".--LOCATION -------------------QUANTITY -------------------CCIMMENTS---------_------_--HIirE # -------------------DATELOCATIONQUANTITYCOMMENTS


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COMMENTS

BLOOM DATESV=ARIETY -~------------------------- -----------------I- -------------------DATE/DURATION------------------------ ---I-------------- ----w-------------Ix)CATION ------w------------QUALITY -------------------COMMENTS

---VARIETY ----------------^--DATE/DURATION -e--^--------------I&CATIONQUALITY------------------------ -------------------_.-------------------COMMENTS=------- ----- ----l_-------------------~ ---z--==VARIETY Y------I-----------DATE/DURATION------------------------..-----------~-------..-------------------WCATION------------------------.--------------------.--------------------QUALITY--------------------____(________I______-----.--------------------COMMENTS=. . ~-~-PP----_-l=~~- ----==== =====;: - ----- _.- ---- -====-~======~=VARIETY-------------------s----DATE/DURATION--------I---------------LQCATION -------------------QUALITYCOMMENTS------A--- -_I_---------_------------=----------=====-IVARIETYDATE/DURATION----------------------------------------------------------------XK!ATIGN----------------------------------------------------------------QUALITY--------------------__u_I_______________-------------------------


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VARETY

-----------------------

1

------------------ -----------m--v----

DATE~DURATION--------------c-------- -------------------------------------LOCATION------------------------ ------------------_-_________I_________QMLITY-s--m ----------------- --------------------________s__________COMMENTS

---u----------------- ------------------------------------DATE~DURATION------------------------.--------------------,------------------UXATION------------------H-----.-------------------_.-------------------QUAUTY------------------------..--------------------.---Y--------------COMMENTS

--- -YVARIETY -----------------aDATE/DURATION --------m-mI&CATION -------------------QUAIZTY ----------aCOMMENTS

--------VARIETY----------------------------------------------------------------M~/DURATION----------------------------------------------------------------ILlCATION--------------------__L_________________- --------------we----QUALITY----------------------------------------------------------------CGIYMEMTS

DATE/DURATION-----------------------ILXATION----------------------QUALITY

--------------------

--------------------

----------c---------

. --------------------


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WAX PRODUCTIONHIVE # -------a-----------DATE

-------------------LOCATION -------------------QUANTITY -------^-----------COMMENTS

- ' -a---HIVE #DATE -------------------LOCATION------------P---o------- ------------------ -------------------.QUANTITYCOMMENTS------------- -------- pI~-III- ._~ ---P- ---.- __-. --_---------------~========~====m=HIVE P -----------I-------DATE ----^--------------LOCATION------------------------QUANTITY -------------------COMMENTSHLVE #-------------.----------- -----------------pDATE-I-pI------------------- ---I-----------I--LOCATION-------------pI-----___I ------------------QUANTITYCOMMENTS

i

--p-IpIpII-__________________________-_-_________

------------------------ ------------------ ___________________

---__--.-.------_--- -----------_----------_l--_- ~___-- ____ -----.-----------.---.--- .-.. -..--1IIVE #----------------------- ----'------"-a.--"'DATE-------------I---------- ----I-I-----------LOCATIONo-op----------------___p --p-e-uII-p-p--s--QUANTITY I-----pp-pIpI--I-oI-L-- -----------.-------


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--HIVE #--------------------------------------------------------------DATE------------------------~---------------------------------------LOCATION----------------------------------------------------------------QUANTITY------------------------~---------------------------------------COMMENTSHIVE IDATELOCATION_-----------------------QUANTITY------------------------COMHENTS

-- --------------------I-.--DATE------------------------ u---------w------ -------------------LOCATION -------------------QUANTITY ---------M---------COMMENTS

-A------- ----lo--------- --_-----___-----------m----------_-mmm------mw-HIVE t--------------------__I_DATE------------------------ ------.s------------ ------------c---I-..LOCATION------------------------ -B-------e---------QUANTITY--------------------_^__ ----e-------e------COMMENTS---. -- - -----A-----------IiIvJ3 #


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SWANKING---------------------------------~-----------------------------HIVE #------------1----3------------------------ -----a----------....--DATE----------------------------------------------------------------IXXATION-----------------------~----------------------------------------SIZE---YI_----------------------------~-----------------------------COMMENTSHIVE #----------------------- -B---------------m -------------------DATE-I--------------------- ---.,.----s.--------- -----w...-------------LOCATION----------------------- ------------------- ---------------..----SIZE----------------------- ------------------- ---------------I----COMMENTSHIVE #

--------------Be--IDATE----------------------- w------------------ILOCATION-----------------------. -------------------ISIZE----------------------- -------------------.COHHENTS

- -m.--------.....,,.-m-------x=:HIVE #-----_----=-_---------- --------w---a-*---,DATE----------------_-_____ -----------1------,LOCATIONSIZEI--I----.*---------Y---- -------------------COMMENTS

DATELOCATION


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- -xHIVE #----------------------- -------------------L----c------------------

DATE--------------------__________________I_------------------------LOCATION--------------------___3________________------------------------SIZE--------------------__L_________________------------------------COMMENTS

HIVE #-------------------- ---------------- -------------------DATE------------c------- -------__-----__ --I-----------------LOCATION-------------------- --_-----_-----^_ --------------------SIZE-----_------------I---- -----s------------- --------I-----------COMMENTSz=zZ i-------I---~ ---.l--__m-------------e,.e"---------.-zczz~====HIVE # ---------------.m.----DATE----------------------- ----------I------...- --------------------LOCATIONSIZECOMMENTS

~--l----1- ----w----w---------'fIIvE # ----e------e------wwDATE-------------------------~~------~~-------- -c-------eM-----vwwLOCATION-----------------------SIZECOMMENTS

II I_ -L- - ---~==-=:1==---=-=-r--.====I_-====HIVE tDATE-----------------^----- ------I--------...--- -_---------_-------LOCATION------------_---------- ------------------- _______-l____e_---_SIZE


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NEW BEE PURCHASES/TRADESDATESOURCE TYPEATESOURCE TYPE QUANTITY COST TO HIVE# LOCATIONUANTITY COST TO HIVE# LOCATION COMMENTSOMMENTS


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HONEY/WAX SALES;;;E-

.-- ----------~--------.QUANTITY PRICE--=I=--z -----=:--

-m-e----------____ COMKENTS-w-w---------

-I_ -

---I--

--

Documents

A Beekeeping Guide 1989