The Best of Ireland

At first glance, Ireland presents a familiar face to American visitors. The language isthe same, only more lyrical, the faces are familiar, the food recognizable, and even thestout is well known. Many visitors, notably Irish Americans, experience it as a kind ofhomecoming. It takes awhile for this superficial impression to wear off, but it will,because this is a unique country in its own right, a fact that becomes clearer the longeryou stay here. The impenetrable Gaelic language is increasingly prevalent, and in somecounties, road signs are predominantly in Gaelic. This creates a kind of distance, afeeling of foreignness, that it seems many Irish do not mind cultivating. Once youovercome that feeling, though, you’ll find so much to love here. The sheer number ofsights, villages, charming pubs, and adorable restaurants and shops is overwhelming—you always feel that you might be missing something.

For visitors this is an ideal country to traverse, and with its varied and extensiveofferings within a compact frame, it’s visually addictive. Within a few miles, you cantravel from rugged coastline to smooth pastureland to towering mountains to gloomypeat bog. You can spend the night in ancient castles or modern spa hotels, dine on fineIrish cuisine or skimp on fish and chips. The country’s varied offerings can be a bitdazzling, so it’s nice to have somebody help you focus. That’s why we’ve put togetherthis list of some of our favorite places in Ireland. We hope that while you’re here, you’llfind a few of your own.

1

1 The Best Picture-Postcard Towns• Dalkey (County Dublin): This

charming south-coast Dublin suburbhas just enough glorious freedomfrom that city’s traffic snarls andfrenzy. With a castle, a mountaintopfolly, and lovely beaches, there’s a lotto enjoy. Dalkey is an upscale bed-room community for Ireland’s rich,so it’s unsurprising that it also hasfine restaurants and welcoming pubs.This is a tempting town to settle into.See chapter 5.

• Carlingford (County Louth): Up inquiet, lazy Louth, little Carlingford isa draw. A tiny medieval village withcastle ruins on the bay, its pedestrian-friendly lanes are filled with colorful

shops, cafes, and pubs, and its otherdraws include a scattering of goodeateries. See chapter 6.

• Inistioge (County Kilkenny): Nes-tled in the Nore River Valley, sur-rounded by undulating hills, thisriverfront village with two spaciousgreens and a host of pubs cries out tobe photographed. Its rivers and lakesare swimming with fish and attracthosts of anglers. See chapter 7.

• Kilkenny (County Kilkenny): Kil-kenny is a charming medieval town.Its city walls, splendidly restored cas-tle, and renowned arts scene draw vis-itors from across Ireland and abroad.The combination of the historic feel

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and the modern arts movementmakes this an especially rewardingtown to discover. See chapter 7.

• Kinsale (County Cork): Kinsale’snarrow streets all lead to the sea,dropping steeply from the hillsaround the harbor, although thecrowds of visitors teeming on the side-walks every summer attest to the factthat the Kinsale secret is out. Thewalk from Kinsale through Scilly toCharles Fort and Frower Point isbreathtaking. Kinsale has the addedbenefit of being a foodie town, withno shortage of good restaurants. Seechapter 9.

• Kenmare (County Kerry): If you’redriving the Ring of Kerry, this is thebest base you could wish for at themouth of the River Roughty on Ken-mare Bay. The town is picture perfectwith stone cottages, colorful gardens,

and flowers overflowing from win-dow boxes. See chapter 10.

• Adare (County Limerick): Like atown plucked from a book of fairytales, Adare has thatched cottages,black-and-white timbered houses,lichen-covered churches, and roman-tic ruins, strewn along the banks ofthe River Maigue. It’s also got twoexcellent hotels and one fabulousrestaurant. See chapter 11.

• Athlone (County Westmeath): Sit-ting at the edge of the River Shan-non, its streets curving around asturdy, fortresslike castle, Athlone is acharmer. Houses are painted inbright hues, and with its small, funkyboutiques and spirit of fun, it has thefeel of a busy university town. Goodrestaurants and lively pubs add to itscharms. See chapter 13.

T H E B E S T N AT U R A L W O N D E R S 5

2 The Best Natural Wonders• The Slieve Bloom Way (County

Laois): Slieve Bloom, Ireland’s largestand most unspoiled blanket bog, risesgently above the peat fields. Itsbeauty—gentle slopes, glens, rivers,waterfalls, and bog lands—is subtlebut persistent, and it is comparativelyuntouched. You can have it more orless to yourself, apart from its deerand foxes, and an occasional frolick-ing otter.

• MacGillycuddy’s Reeks (CountyKerry): A mountain range on theIveragh Peninsula, MacGillycuddy’sReeks not only has the best name ofany mountain range in Ireland, butalso the highest mountain on theisland, Carrantuohill (1,041m/3,414ft.). The Reeks are among Ireland’sgreatest spectacles. See p. 324.

• The Burren (County Clare): We canguarantee this: The Burren is one ofthe strangest landscapes you’re likelyto see. Its vast limestone grassland is

spread with a quilt of wildflowersfrom as far afield as the Alps, all soft-ening the stark stones jutting out ofthe ground. Its inhabitants includenearly every species of butterflyfound in Ireland. See p. 376.

• Cliffs of Moher (County Clare): Ris-ing from Hag’s Head to the south,these magnificent sea cliffs reach theirfull height of 214m (702 ft.) justnorth of O’Brien’s Tower. The viewsof the open sea, of the Aran Islands,and of the Twelve Bens mountains ofConnemara (see below) are spectacu-lar. A walk south along the cliff edgeat sunset makes a perfect end to anyday. See p. 380.

• Croagh Patrick (County Mayo):Rising steeply 750m (2,460 ft.) abovethe coast, Croagh Patrick is seen as aholy mountain, where a saint is saidto have retreated in penance. Tradi-tionally, barefoot pilgrims climb it onthe last Sunday of July, but in recent

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years, hundreds of Nike-shod touristshave been making the ascent daily.The view from above can be breath-taking or nonexistent—the summit isoften wrapped in clouds. See p. 248.

• The Twelve Bens (County Galway):Amid Connemara’s central moun-tains, bogs, and lakes, the ruggedTwelve Bens range crowns a spectacu-lar landscape. Some of the peaks arebare and rocky, others clothed in peat.The loftiest, Benbaun, in ConnemaraNational Park, reaches a height of719m (2,395 ft.). See p. 410.

• Slieve League (County Donegal):The Slieve League peninsula stretches

for 48km (30 miles) into the Atlantic.Its wonderfully pigmented bluffs riseto startlingly high sea cliffs. They canalso be walked along, if you dare. Seep. 468.

• Giant’s Causeway (County Antrim):At the foot of a cliff by the sea, thismysterious mass of dark tightlypacked, naturally occurring, hexago-nal basalt columns are nothing shortof astonishing. This volcanic wonder,formed 60 million years ago, looksmarvelous from above, even betterwhen negotiated (cautiously) on foot.See p. 521.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F I R E L A N D8

3 The Best Castles• Trim Castle (County Meath): Trim,

also called King John’s Castle, restoredas a “preserved ruin,” is a massiveAnglo-Norman structure. It was allbut impregnable for 4 centuries (late-12th to mid-17th). Until it was aban-doned and collapsed in the 17thcentury, it never underwent any sig-nificant alteration. For anyone withimagination, Trim is a visual gatewayinto medieval Ireland. See p. 205.

• Cahir Castle (County Tipperary):One of the largest of Ireland’smedieval fortresses, this castle is in anextraordinary state of preservation.Tours explain some fascinating fea-tures of the military architecture, andthen you’re free to roam through amaze of tiny chambers, spiral stair-cases, and dizzying battlements. Seep. 241.

• Kilkenny Castle (County Kilkenny):Although parts of the castle date fromthe 13th century, the existing struc-ture has the feel of an 18th-centurypalace. There have been many modi-fications since medieval times,including the addition of colorfullandscaping, and the old stables now

hold numerous art galleries andshops. See p. 251.

• Blarney Castle (County Cork):Despite the mobs of tourists whobesiege it daily, this majestic towerhouse is worth a visit. While you’rethere, check out the Badger Cave anddungeons at the tower’s base, as wellas the serpentine paths that windthrough the castle gardens. Need wemention the Blarney Stone? You sidlein under the upper wall with yourhead hanging over a 10-story drop.You kiss it. It’s a thing people do. Seep. 273.

• Charles Fort (County Cork): On apromontory in Kinsale Harbor, thisfortress’s massive walls enclose a com-plex of buildings in varying states ofrepair. At the entrance you’re handeda map and left to explore, discover,and almost certainly get lost in themaze of courtyards, passages, walls,and barracks. See p. 280.

• Bunratty Castle and Folk Park(County Clare): This grand old castlehas been well restored and filled witha curious assortment of medieval fur-nishings, offering a glimpse into thelife of its past inhabitants. This is the

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first stop for many arrivals from Shan-non, so expect crowds. See p. 369.

• Doe Castle (County Donegal): Thispicturesque tower house is sur-rounded on three sides by the watersof Sheep Haven Bay and on thefourth by a moat carved into thebedrock that forms its foundation. Ithas a remote waterfront setting andsweeping views of the nearby hills.See p. 473.

• Carrickfergus Castle (CountyAntrim): This well-preserved Nor-man fortress standing guard on the

bank of Belfast Lough is huge andimpressive, with an imposing towerhouse and a high wall punctuated bycorner towers. See p. 510.

• Dunluce Castle (County Antrim):These castle ruins surmount a razor-sharp promontory jutting into thesea. This was no doubt a highly defen-sible setting, and the castle wasn’tabandoned until a large section col-lapsed and fell into the breakers. Seep. 521.

T H E B E S T O F A N C I E N T I R E L A N D 9

4 The Best of Ancient Ireland• Newgrange (County Meath): Poised

atop a low hill north of the RiverBoyne, Newgrange is the centerpieceof a megalithic cemetery dating back5,000 years. The massive mound andpassage tomb were constructed, itseems, as a communal vault to housecremated remains. The tomb’s pas-sage is so perfectly aligned with thesolstice sun that the central chamber,deep within the mound, is illumi-nated for several days at the wintersolstice. See p. 203.

• Hill of Tara (County Meath): Of rit-ual significance from the Stone Ageto the Christian period, Tara has seenit all and kept it all a secret. This wasthe traditional center and seat of Ire-land’s high kings. Although the hill isonly 154m (512 ft.) above sea level,from here you can see each of Ire-land’s four Celtic provinces on a clearday. The site is mostly unexcavatedand tells its story in whispers. It’s aplace to be walked slowly. See p. 202.

• Loughcrew (County Meath): At thislittle-known site, not far from New-grange, a series of cruciform passagetombs crown two hills. On the easthill, a guide unlocks the door to oneof the domed tombs, answering yourquestions with a personal touch not

possible at the larger sites. Morerewarding, however, is a hike up thewest hill to a second, more solitaryseries of tombs where you can makeyour own imaginative reconstruction.See p. 203.

• Lough Gur (County Limerick): Thislakefront site will convince you thatthe Neolithic farmers of Ireland hadan estimable sense of real estate.Inhabited for more than 4,000 years,the ancient farming settlement offersa number of prehistoric remains. Themost impressive of these is the largestsurviving stone circle in Ireland,made up of 113 stones. See p. 356.

• Dún Aengus (County Galway): Noone knows who built this massivestone fort, or when. The eminentarchaeologist George Petrie calledDún Aengus “the most magnificentbarbaric monument in Europe.” Fac-ing the sea, where its three stone ringsmeet steep 90m (295-ft.) cliffs, DúnAengus still stands guard today overthe southern coast of the island ofInishmore, the largest of the AranIslands. See “Side Trips from GalwayCity” in chapter 12 on p. 400.

• Carrowmore and Carrowkeel(County Sligo): These two megalithiccities of the dead (Europe’s largest)

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may have once contained more than200 passage tombs. The twotogether—one in the valley and theother atop a nearby mountain—con-vey an unequaled sense of the scaleand wonder of the ancient peoples’reverence for the dead. Carrowmoreis well presented and interpreted,while Carrowkeel is left to itself andto those who seek it out. See p. 445.

• Navan Fort (County Antrim): Thereis no longer much remaining here toreflect the great past of this fort,though it was once the ritual androyal seat of Ulster. Thankfully, theinterpretive center here is nothingshort of remarkable, and it offers agreat introduction to the myth andarchaeology of the fort, known inIrish as Emain Macha. See p. 518.

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5 Remnants of the Golden Age: The Best Early Christian Ruins• Glendalough (County Wicklow):

Nestled in “the glen of the two lakes,”this atmospheric monastic settlementwas founded in the 6th century by St. Kevin, who was looking for seclu-sion and certainly found it here. Thesetting is endlessly scenic, with lakesand thick forests surrounding it.Although quite remote, Glendaloughsuffered numerous assaults from theVikings and English forces, and even-tually faded away. Today its stoneruins collude with the countryside tocreate one of the loveliest spots in Ire-land. See p. 182.

• Jerpoint Abbey (County Kilkenny):Jerpoint is the finest representative ofthe many Cistercian abbeys whoseruins dot the Irish landscape. Some-how hundreds of years of rain andwind have failed to completely wipeaway clever medieval carvings, leav-ing us a rare chance for a glimpse ofhow magnificent these abbeys oncewere. The splendid, richly carvedcloister is the best place to spot elab-orate carvings, particularly at the topof the many columns. See p. 254.

• The Rock of Cashel (County Tip-perary): In name and appearance,“the Rock” suggests a citadel, a placedesigned more for power than prayer.In fact, Cashel (or Caiseal ) means“fortress.” The rock is a huge out-cropping—or an upcropping—oflimestone topped with spectacularly

beautiful ruins, including what wasformerly the country’s finest Roman-esque chapel. This was the seat of cler-ics and kings, a power center to rivalTara. Now, however, the two sites vieonly for tourists. See p. 242.

• Skellig Michael (County Kerry):Thirteen kilometers (8 miles) off-shore of the Iveragh Peninsula, risingsharply 214m (702 ft.) out of theAtlantic, this is a remote rocky cragdedicated to the archangel Michael.In flight from the world, early Irishmonks in pursuit of “white martyr-dom” chose this spot to build theiraustere hermitage. Today the journeyto Skellig, across choppy seas, and thearduous climb to its summit are chal-lenging and unforgettable. See “TheSkellig Islands” under “The IveraghPeninsula” in chapter 10.

• Inishmurray (County Sligo): Thisuninhabited island off the Sligo coastholds another striking monastic ruin,this one surrounded by what appearto be the walls of an even moreancient stone fort. Despite itsremoteness, the Vikings sought outthis outpost of peace-seeking monksfor destruction in 807 A.D. Today itscircular walls and the surrounding seacreate a stunning view, well worth theeffort required to reach it. See“Exploring the Surrounding Coun-tryside” under “Sligo & Yeats Coun-try” in chapter 14.

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• Clonmacnois (County Offaly): Thiswas once one of Ireland’s most impor-tant religious, artistic, and literary cen-ters, a place of pilgrimage and culture.Founded in the mid–5th century atthe axis of the River Shannon and the medieval east-west thoroughfare

known as the Eiscir Riada, Clonmac-nois thrived for centuries until itsprime riverfront location broughtrepeated violent raids that proved itsundoing. Even in ruins, Clonmacnoisremains a place of peculiar serenity.See p. 422.

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6 The Best Literary Spots• Glasnevin Cemetery (County Dub-

lin): Besides being the setting for partof Ulysses, this is the resting place ofJames Joyce’s parents and other mem-bers of his family. The English-bornpoet Gerard Manley Hopkins isburied here, in the Jesuit plot. MaudGonne, the Irish nationalist andlongtime Dublin resident who is saidto have inspired Yeats’s play Cathleenní Houlihan, is buried in the Repub-lican plot. The writer, drinker, andIrish Republican Brendan Behan isalso buried here. See p. 143.

• Davy Byrnes Pub: In Ulysses Joycedescribes the main character, LeopoldBloom, stopping in at this Dublinpub for a Gorgonzola sandwich and aglass of burgundy. “He raised his eyesand met the stare of a bilious clock.Two. Pub clock five minutes fast.Time going on. Hands moving. Two.Not yet.” Today the clock is said to bekept 5 minutes fast, in honor ofBloom and Joyce. See chapter 5.

• Dublin Writers Museum: WithJoyce’s typewriter, handwritten lettersfrom Brendan Behan to friends backhome, and early flyers from theAbbey Theatre when it was run byLady Gregory and Yeats, thismuseum is heaven for bookish types.You can spend hours reading thememorabilia, and marveling at thetrivia. The only thing it lacks is agood shop. See chapter 5.

• James Joyce Museum: At the edge ofthe sea in the Dublin suburb ofSandycove, this Martel tower was

home to Joyce for a short time, but hebased a character on his host, OliverSt. John Gogarty, whom Joycedescribed in Ulysses perfectly as“stately, plump Buck Mulligan.” Themuseum was opened in 1962, and itsinterior has been restored to look as itdid when Joyce was here, along withplenty of memorabilia, includingJoyce’s walking stick and guitar. Seechapter 5.

• St. Patrick’s Cathedral (CountyDublin): Jonathan Swift tickled andhorrified the world with his viciouswit. He shook up political establish-ments with his sarcasm, and nause-ated the English-speaking world withhis suggestion that people shoulddine on Irish babies. While kickingup such a stir, he was dean of St.Patrick’s Cathedral, which sponsoredand supported him through it all. Heis buried here alongside his longtimecompanion, Stella. See p. 140.

• County Sligo: With its many con-nections to the beloved poet W. B.Yeats, this county is a pilgrimage des-tination for Yeats fans. The poet’swriting was shaped by the landscapeand people in this farming region,and many of its monuments—including Lough Gill, Glencar Lake,Ben Bulben Mountain, and Maeve’stomb—appear in his poetry. Thereare also several museums housing firsteditions, photographs, and othermemorabilia, and Yeats’s dark andsomber grave is in Drumcliff. Seechapter 14.

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7 The Best Gardens• Powerscourt Gardens (County

Wicklow): This grandiose Irish gar-den is set amid the natural splendorof the Wicklow Hills just outside ofDublin. The sprawling, manicuredgardens and the wild beauty of thePowerscourt waterfall make this agreat day’s outing, and a respite fromthe noise and congestion of the city.See p. 184.

• Japanese Gardens (County Kildare):On the grounds of the National Stud,this peaceful enclave is based on thetraditional designs of Japanese gar-dens. A Japanese specialist plannedthe structure and its symbolism, andmost of the plants and stones wereimported from Japan. See p. 196.

• Ilnacullin (County Cork): A ferryconveys visitors from a rhododen-dron-framed bay in the town ofGlengarriff to Garinish Island, theunlikely site of a fine Italianate gar-den. The formal garden, with the

Casita at its center, is linked to a“wild garden” that showcases a collec-tion of rhododendrons, azaleas, andrare trees. See p. 293.

• Glenveagh National Park (CountyDonegal): A castle and its gardensstretch across a strangely barren valleyhigh in the hills of Donegal, alongthe banks of Lough Veagh. Thesprawling park contains a grand stat-uary garden, a walled garden, and arhododendron-lined path that leadsto a stunning view of the castle andlake. See p. 472.

• Mount Stewart Gardens (CountyDown): Built upon an elaborate plan,the Mount Stewart house has severalsmall gardens of distinctive character.The Ards Peninsula provides a cli-mate conducive to cultivating manysubtropical species. The statuary,topiary, and planting designs reflect atouch of whimsy. See p. 512.

8 The Best Family Activities• Dublin Zoo in the Phoenix Park

(Dublin): Kids love this sympatheti-cally designed zoo, with its wild crea-tures, animal-petting corners, andtrain ride. The surrounding park hasroom to run, picnic, and explore forhours. See p. 149.

• Irish National Heritage Park(County Wexford): Nearly 9,000years of Irish history come alive herein ways that will fascinate visitors ofall ages. The whole family will be cap-tivated by the story of ancient Ire-land, from its first inhabitants to itsNorman conquerors. See p. 216.

• Fota Island Wildlife Park (CountyCork): In this wildlife park, rare andendangered animals roam freely.You’ll see everything from giraffesand zebras to kangaroos, flamingos,

penguins, and monkeys wanderingthe grassland. Add in a small amuse-ment park for toddlers, a tour train,picnic tables, and a gift shop and youhave the makings of a wonderful fam-ily-day outing. See p. 288.

• Muckross House & Gardens (Kil-larney, County Kerry): This hugeVictorian mansion with its exquisitegardens is also home to skilled arti-sans at work. Nearby are a series ofreconstructed traditional farms, withanimals and docents, providing agateway to rural Ireland as it was forcenturies. See p. 320.

• Fungie the Dolphin Tours (Dingle,County Kerry): Every day, fishingboats ferry visitors out into thenearby waters to see Fungie, thefriendliest dolphin you’re ever likely

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to meet. Fungie swims right up to theboat, and the boatmen stay out longenough for ample sightings. You canalso arrange an early-morning dol-phin swim. See p. 334.

• Bunratty Castle and Folk Park(County Clare): Kids are enthralledby this well-restored medieval castleand re-created 19th-century village.

It’s complete with a school andloaded with active craftspeople. See p. 369.

• Marble Arch Caves (Marlbank,County Fermanagh): Adventurousfamilies are guided by boat throughwell-lit underground waterways toexplore caves and view amazing stoneformations. See p. 555.

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9 The Best Active Vacations• Sailing Ireland’s West Coast: Spec-

tacular coastal scenery, interestingharbor towns, and an abundance ofislands make the west coast a delightfor cruising sailors. See “Sailing” inchapter 4.

• Horseback Riding in Donegal: Thewild and woolly coast of Donegaloffers the perfect scenic backdrop fortrail riding, and as varied a terrain—beaches, countryside, mountains—asyou’ll find anywhere. See p. 466.

• Sea Kayaking in West Cork: InCastletownbere on the dramatic,rugged Beara Peninsula, Beara Out-door Pursuits specializes in accompa-nied trips out and around Bere Islandand as far as Glengarriff. You can playit as safe or as rough as you want. Seep. 296.

• Bicycling in the Southwest: Thepeninsulas and islands of Cork andKerry are perfect for cycling, with anabundance of beautiful places to visit.Roycroft’s Stores in Skibbereen,County Cork, rent bikes that are a

notch above the usual rental equip-ment. See the “Sports & OutdoorPursuits” sections in chapters 9 and 10.

• Walking the Donegal Coast: Therugged headlands of Donegal are themost spectacular in Ireland, and thebest way to explore them is on foot.Among the finest walks are SlieveLeague, Malin Head, and HornHead. See “The Donegal Bay Coast”in chapter 15.

• The Great Outdoors: This is a soup-to-nuts hiking outfitter that does daytrips from Dublin. Dirty Boots Treks(& 01/623-6785; www.dirtybootstreks.com), offers full-day excursionsinto the mountains south of Dublin.Treks include round-trip transporta-tion in a 4×4 Land Rover fromDublin into Wicklow MountainsNational Park, for an easy-to-moder-ate hike. You also get a homemadepicnic lunch and the day is cappedoff with a drink in a local countrypub before returning to Dublin.

10 The Best Luxury Accommodations• The Clarence (Dublin; & 01/670-

9000; www.theclarence.ie): Ownedby members of the band U2, theClarence is a perfect mixture of sleeksophistication and coolness. Every-thing here is designed for subtle ele-gance, from the soft, neutral colorschemes, to the luxurious bed linens,

to the huge beds, and the helpfulstaff. The Octagon Bar is a relaxinghangout, while the Tea Room restau-rant is one of the best eateries intown. The new spa will pummel andfacial you into relaxation, while thestaff members hurry off to find your

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favorite red wine. Staying here is areal treat. See p. 109.

• Brook Lodge Hotel (County Wick-low; & 0402/36444; www.brooklodge.com): This place keeps gettingbetter and better. Rooms have firmking-size four-poster beds, wood-paneled window seats, deep bathtubs,quality linens, and contemporary fur-nishings. The latest addition to thisholistic oasis is The Wells, a gorgeousspa with Finnish baths, mud baths,hot tubs, Jacuzzis, indoor and out-door pools, a hammam (Turkishbath), and a flotation room in whichyou’re sure to relax. See p. 190.

• Glin Castle (County Limerick; & 068/34173; www.glincastle.com)This beautifully restored, 18th-cen-tury castle guesthouse near themouth of the Shannon is a peacefuland elegant place to pass an eveningor two. Owned for centuries by theknights of Glin, it is all very welldone, with multiple parlors warmedby crackling fires, walled gardens andbeautiful grounds to explore. Roomsare huge and gorgeously appointedwith antiques, and the staff is friendlyand helpful. It offers class withoutsnobbery. See p. 356.

• Gregans Castle Hotel (CountyClare; & 800/323-5463 in the U.S.,or 065/707-7005; www.gregans.ie):.Not a castle at all, but an ivy-covered,stone manor house, this small, fam-ily-run hotel is filled with light, and ithas lovely views of the Burren andGalway Bay. The drawing room andexpansive hallways are filled with

heirlooms, and the walls are deco-rated with Raymond Piper’s muralpaintings of the Burren. Guest roomsare spacious and elegantly decoratedin muted colors with antique pieces,and all have expansive views of thespectacular countryside. Dinners hereare outstanding, and eating in isworth every penny. See p. 378.

• Delphi Lodge (County Galway; & 095/42222): This was once thecountry hideaway for the marquis ofSligo, and now it can be yours, too.Inside, the emphasis is on clean,bright simplicity and perfect taste; thegrounds and environs are simply spec-tacular. “Tranquillity,” “comfort,”and, well, “fishing” are the operativewords here. You will want to staylonger than you’d planned—and byrenting one of the cottages for a weekor more, you can make the indul-gence more affordable. See p. 418.

• Park Hotel Kenmare (CountyKerry; & 800/323-5463 in the U.S.or 064/41200; www.parkkenmare.com): In a palm-tree-lined gardenbeside Kenmare Bay, this imposing19th-century hotel is grand and luxu-rious. In the high-ceilinged sittingrooms, fires crackle in the open fire-places, original oil paintings decoratethe walls, and there’s a full set ofarmor at the top of the grand staircasesurrounded by tapestries and rareantiques. Guest rooms have Georgianand Victorian furnishings and peace-ful waterfront or mountain views.The guest-only, in-house spa isextraordinary. See p. 313.

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11 The Best Moderately Priced Accommodations• Moy House (County Clare; & 065/

708-2800; www.moyhouse.com):This unusual 19th-century towerhouse atop a hill overlooking the seais beautiful inside and out. Roomshave comfortable, modern beds

covered in crisp Irish linens, and aredecorated with original paintings andperiod antiques. Bathrooms are beau-tifully designed to combine modernconveniences with the building’s oldarchitecture (a glass panel in one

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room provides a look down into anold well). Downstairs, the small,attractive dining room serves upexcellent food and has a sea view. It’sa snug, warm, friendly place to visit.See p. 383.

• Temple House (County Sligo; & 071/918-3329; www.templehouse.ie): Roderick and HelenaPerceval’s grand Victorian manorhouse is an extraordinary place whereceilings soar to the stratosphere, mar-ble stays solidly underfoot, and thefamily’s working farm stretches outfor miles around you. A Templar cas-tle lies in ruins on the banks of theirlake, well stocked with fish. To spenda few days here is to experience a dif-ferent world. See p. 448.

• The Bastion (County Westmeath; & 090/649-4954; www.thebastion.net): This simple and peaceful guest-house in the heart of colorful Athloneis a find. Run by brothers Vinny andAnthony McCay, it has a minimalistapproach, with clean white walls andcrisp white linens contrasted withdark polished wood. The big, ram-bling house is comfortable, friendly,and perfectly located for touringAthlone or as a base for exploring thesurrounding countryside. See p. 425.

• Glenally House (County Cork: & 024/91623; www.glenally.com):At this wonderful Georgian countryhouse near Youghal, all of the detailsare right: crisp, white cotton linens,fresh flowers in every room, fabulouscooking, and roaring log fires. Every-where there’s a brilliant juxtapositionof antique furnishings and up-to-the-minute styles, and it works wonder-fully. You’ll be sorry to leave thisplace. See p. 290.

• Bruckless House (County Donegal;& 074/973-7071): This mid-18th-century farmhouse, restored withimpeccable taste, has many charms,including award-winning gardens

and a stable of Connemara ponies.Spacious, welcoming, and comfort-able, Bruckless House feels like home(or better) after only a very shorttime. See p. 470.

• Rathmullan House (County Done-gal; & 0800/223-6510 in the U.S.,or 074/915-8188 in Ireland; www.rathmullanhouse.com): This getawaylies at the end of a long private driveon the banks of the mirrorlike watersof Lough Swilly. Rooms are big andbeautifully detailed, with a soft colorscheme, claw-foot tubs, and privatepatios. There are half a dozen draw-ing rooms in which you can relax onbig leather sofas by open fires. Thestaff is friendly and open, and theatmosphere is one of pure rural restand relaxation. See p. 476.

• The Bervie (County Mayo; & 098/43114; www.bervieachill.com): Viewsreally don’t get any better than this—sitting right at the edge of the sea,overlooking the cliffs across the pris-tine bay. This cozy retreat is an idealplace to stay for those exploring Ire-land’s wild west coast. Owners Eliza-beth and John Barrett are charminghosts who greet you with fresh sconesand will cook you a delightful dinnerif you wish. The house is a formerCoast Guard station—as solid as arock, and as comforting as a securityblanket. This is one of our favoriteplaces in Ireland. See p. 436.

• Ross Castle and House (CountyCavan; & 043/81286 castle, or 049/854-0218 house): A tower room in acentrally heated, haunted castle,awaits you at Ross Castle. It won’ttake too big a bite out of your wallet,either. It might not be elegant, but itis unquestionably memorable. Warm,comfortable Ross Castle and nearbyRoss House are great places to relaxbeside Lough Sheelin, a noteworthysource of trout and pike. See p. 456.

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• Slieve Croob Inn (County Down; & 028/4377-1412): Whether youwant to drop anchor and set up ahome away from home in a

self-catering cottage or just spend anight in a stunning landscape, you’lladore this tasteful hideaway in themagical Mournes. See p. 532.

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12 The Best Restaurants• Chapter One (County Dublin;

& 01/873-2266): Arguably the city’smost atmospheric restaurant, thisremarkable eatery fills the vaultedbasement space of the Dublin WritersMuseum. Artfully lighted and taste-fully decorated, it offers a menu withlocal, organic ingredients, all cleverlyused in remarkable dishes like the ravi-oli with Irish goat cheese and warmasparagus. Fabulous. See p. 131.

• Coast (County Waterford; & 051/393646): For food lovers, this is thegreat address to know about inWaterford. The dining room is aschic and understated as you’d hope tofind in New York or London, withmodern, smart food that really makesyou take notice. From start to finish,the meal delivers just the right bal-ance of zing and restraint. See p. 237.

• Grapefruit Moon (County Cork; & 021/464-6646): Here’s an ele-gant, pared-down place in the middleof Ballycotton, an appealing village inEast Cork. Run by members of theAllen family, of Ballymaloe fame, thekey to everything is using the freshestingredients obtainable. See p. 290.

• The Chart House (County Kerry; & 066/915-2255): In this invitingbistro, everyone comes for LauraBoyce’s confident, simple cooking.Think wonderful comfort food witha flair—the kind of food you nevertire of. And the service is, as the Irishwould say, “spot on.” See p. 340.

• The Wild Geese (County Limerick;& 061/396451): After spendingyears making other people’s restau-rants absolutely fabulous, owner-chef

David Foley created a gem in Limer-ick. The cooking is complex, exquis-itely flavorful, and refined, yet alwaysrestrained. See p. 358.

• Cromleach Lodge (County Sligo; & 071/916-5155): In this lovelycountry house with panoramic viewsof Lough Arrow and environs,Christy and Moira Tighe have createda culinary destination with few peers.The menu, Irish in focus, changesdaily and never fails to delight. Theeight-course gourmet menu is theultimate indulgence. See p. 447.

• The Corncrake (County Donegal;& 074/937-4534): Such a judiciousblend of fresh ingredients and culi-nary imagination is a rare treat. Thenettle soup, roast lamb, and dessertsof Noreen Lynch and Brid McCart-ney warrant a detour to the town ofCarndonagh, where the living roomof a small row house has been trans-formed into an extraordinary restau-rant. See p. 482.

• James Street South (County Antrim:& 028/9043-4310; www.jamesstreetsouth.co.uk): This is the table of themoment in Belfast. This place is a hitbecause of the terrific cooking, whichdelivers modern classics with an Irishtwist. The lamb is always excellent,and shouldn’t be missed. Portions aregenerous, the wine list very good, thecrowd rapturous. See p. 505.

• The Narrows (County Down; & 028/4272-8148): Who’d havethought that the sleepy little water-side hamlet of Portaferry would havea restaurant like this? Danny Millar isone of the hottest young chefs on this

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island—just ask Food & Wine maga-zine—and his complex, yet earthy

cooking is worth going out of yourway for. See p. 515.

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13 The Best Pubs• Abbey Tavern (County Dublin): A

short distance from Dublin center,the Abbey Tavern is the perfect placeto recover and refuel after spending aday exploring Dublin. The Abbey isknown far and wide for its ballads aswell as its brew. See p. 168.

• Brazen Head (County Dublin):Nearly qualifying as one of Ireland’sancient sites, the Brazen Head, com-missioned by Charles II, is more than300 years old, but its stout is as freshas it comes. Among its illustriousalumni are Wolfe Tone, DanielO’Connell, and Robert Emmet, whoplanned the Dublin rising of 1803under the Head’s low timbers. See p. 164.

• The Long Valley (County Cork): Foranyone who knows and loves Cork,this is a place of pilgrimage. There’sone endless, low-slung room with abar running its full length, doorstaken from an ocean liner, barmen inwhite butchers’ coats, and a selectionof delectable sandwiches. It’s a littleslice of heaven. See p. 277.

• McGann’s (County Clare): Doolin, a dot of a town on the Clare Coast, is a magnet for traditional Irish

musicians—and a wonderful spot tohear impromptu sessions of Irishmusic. Gus O’Connor’s, down theroad, is more famous (but alsothicker with tourists); McGann’sremains the genuine article withoutthe hype. See p. 385.

• Moran’s Oyster Cottage (CountyGalway): Famed for its seafood, thiscenturies-old thatched-cottage pubon the weir also draws a perfect pint.This may well be the oyster capital ofIreland. It’s 19km (12 miles) out ofGalway and well worth the drive—orthe walk, for that matter. See p. 404.

• Smuggler’s Creek (County Done-gal): This place is worth a stop if onlyfor its spectacular cliff-top views ofDonegal Bay. Stone walls, beamedceilings, open fires, excellent fare, andthe brew that’s true are among thecharms that proprietor Conor Brit-ton has on tap. See p. 467.

• Crown Liquor Saloon (CountyAntrim): This National Trust pub,across from the Grand Opera Housein Belfast, is a Victorian gem. Yourmouth will drop open at its antiquepublican splendor even before you liftyour first pint. See p. 507.

14 The Best Websites• Dublin Tourist Office (www.visit

dublin.com): This site is the mostcomprehensive resource for visitingthe capital. We especially like the newlast-minute booking service, whichlets you find out which hotels andguesthouses have immediate avail-ability, as well as which hotels areoffering the best discounts.

• Irelandhotels.com (www.irelandhotels.com): What catapults thisaccommodations database ahead ofthe raft of hotel-finding sites is its“search by facility” function. Gottahave a gym? Need to find a babysit-ter? Want an in-room dataport forchecking your e-mail? No problem.Just plug in your requirements and it

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will spit out a list of hotels and guest-houses that fit the bill.

• Irish Tourist Board (www.ireland.ie):Bord Fáilte’s site is both easy to navi-gate and extremely informative. It’s anexcellent place to start gathering ideasfor your trip.

• AA Roadwatch (www.aaroadwatch.ie): Planning on driving? The route-planning feature of the Irish Automo-bile Association’s site is brilliantlysimple. Plug in a starting point anddestination and you’ll get a detailed,no-brainer set of directions from A to B.

• Entertainment Ireland (www.entertainment.ie): This handy, exhaus-tive, searchable database includes justabout every event going on in Ireland,from museum exhibitions and rockconcerts to new plays and nightclub

theme nights—and there are well-written reviews of them all.

• Irish Family History Foundation(www.irishroots.net): This brand-new,comprehensive genealogy resourcecontains documentation from all 32counties on the island. Much of thearchived information is free for yourperusal, or you can avail yourself ofresearchers.

• Newshound (www.nuzhound.com):Hands down, this is the best singleresource for keeping up-to-date onNorthern Ireland. It’s a searchablelibrary of news articles about devel-opments in the North, including aterrific timeline of key events in “theTroubles.” In addition, there are arti-cles on the republic, as well as traveland dining reviews.

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