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8 On the T rail Does one of South Africa’s - and indeed the world’s - most famous nature reserves live up to its glorious reputation? A CRITICAL LOOK AT KRUGER NATIONAL PARK THE SAND RIVERS HERE GOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES HERE A CRITICAL LOOK AT KRUGER NATIONAL PARK THE SAND RIVERS

A CRITICAL LOOK AT KRUGER NATIONAL PARK THE SAND RIVERS · people when on safari, and the Kruger National Park has more than its fair share of these, with an estimated population

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Page 1: A CRITICAL LOOK AT KRUGER NATIONAL PARK THE SAND RIVERS · people when on safari, and the Kruger National Park has more than its fair share of these, with an estimated population

8OntheTrail

Does one of South Africa’s - and indeed the world’s - most famous nature reserves live up to its glorious reputation?

A CRITICAL LOOK AT KRUGER NATIONAL PARK

THE SAND RIVERS

HEREGOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES HERE

A CRITICAL LOOK AT KRUGER NATIONAL PARK

THE SAND RIVERS

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outh Africa’s legendary KrugerNational Park was first gazetted in1898 as the Sabie Game Reserve bythe then president of the TransvaalRepublic, Paul Kruger. He first proposedthe need to protect the animals of thelowveldt in 1884, but his revolutionaryvision took another twelve years to berealised when the area between theSabie and Crocodile Rivers was setaside for restricted hunting. Thisenormous and magnificent protectedarea is one of the most popular public-entry National Parks in the world. Itsdensity of permanent wildlife is almostunrivalled, with hundreds of differentspecies; 507 birds, 336 trees, 147mammals, 114 reptiles, 49 fish and 34amphibians. This abundance of wildlifemakes Kruger National Park - on paper,at least - one of the premier wildlife-watching destinations in the world. It isquite possible to see all the classicalAfrican big wild animals during a shortstay here, including elephant, black

and white rhino, hippo, giraffe, zebra,buffalo, warthog and many antelopespecies. Large carnivores include lion,leopard, cheetah, wild dog and spottedhyena. There are also many smallermammals species, too numerous to listhere but of great scientific interestnonetheless, and reptiles includespectacular species such as Puff adders,Mozambique spitting cobra, Blackmamba and Nile crocodile amongothers. The subtropical landscape isquite varied, with a prevalence of flatbushveldt mixed with gigantic rockyoutcrops and wide, open-banked rivers.Huge stretches of tall-grass savannahare also common. Sighting and possibly photographingthe so-called "Big Five" has becomesomething of an obsession for manypeople when on safari, and the KrugerNational Park has more than its fairshare of these, with an estimatedpopulation of 1.500 lion, 12.000elephant, 2.500 buffalo, 1.000

STEXT BY ANDREA FERRARI

PHOTOS BY ANDREA & ANTONELLA FERRARI

The endless expanse of the South African lowveldt

continued on page 12 ›

Antonella scans the landscapelooking for wildlife. Several scenicviewpoints in Kruger NP allow visitorsto step outside their vehicle.

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10The spectacular panorama viewedfrom Olifants Camp, with the river ofthe same name seen here at very lowwater level in the dry season.

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Several bridges spanning Kruger’swide rivers offer excellent opportunitiesto observe and photograph wildlifefrom vantage viewpoints. This is ahippo Hippopotamus amphibius.

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leopards and 5.000 rhino (both blackand white). Rhinos are being currentlykilled at the rate of one a day bypoachers, however, and lionpopulations are crashing all overAfrica, making this an endangeredspecies. However, it should certainly notbe a pre-requisite of a safari to seethese (or even a priority), as there areplenty of other fascinating animals andbirds in the African bush. Kruger boastsa list of over 500 bird species, some ofwhich are not to be found elsewhere inSouth Africa. Hornbills, starlings,vultures, rollers, bee-eaters and shrikes

typify the ubiquitous avifauna andbirdwatchers can look forward to the“Big Six” (Saddle-billed stork, Koribustard, Martial eagle, Lappet-facedvulture, Pel's Fishing-owl and Groundhornbill). The far north of the Park(encompassing the Pafuri and PundaMaria regions) is regarded as one ofthe birding landmarks of the country -with many regional rarities to be found- yet birding throughout the entire Parkis absolutely excellent. Eagles arecommon - Bateleur, Martial, Black-chested Snake, Brown Snake, AfricanHawk, African Fish and Tawny eagle

Rocky escarpments offer excellentopportunities to observe the minutebut very elegant KlipspringerOreotragus oreotragus, a smallantelope which is highly adapted to steep, stony habitats.

A multitude of differenthabitats and biotopes

continued on page 16 ›

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A close-up portrait of an iconicKruger species - the very irritable and often dangerous African or Cape buffalo Syncerus caffer.

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A large bull African elephantLoxodonta africana offers a dramaticbackground to a Fork-tailed DrongoDicrurus adsimilis. This species is oftenseen accompanying elephants,swooping down now and then to catchinsects flushed from the tall grass by the giant’s footsteps.

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Stunning andyet commonexamples ofthe Kruger’savifauna. Left,the beautifullyiridescentCape GlossyStarlingLamprotornisnitens; topright, Little Bee-eater Meropspusillus;bottom right,WoodlandKingfisherHalcyonsenegalensis.

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are all regularly seen, and in summerWahlberg's, Steppe and Lesser Spottedeagle can be added to the checklist.The Park's numerous water points (eventhose ugly concrete, man-made ones)make for excellent wildlife viewing,while the rest camps and picnic sites areexceptionally rewarding for birders.The far north of the Park is the wildestand most difficult area to access:however, with greater ecological co-operation across African borders,several countries bordering SouthAfrica have agreed to take down somefences, and those between Kruger andMozambique's Limpopo National Parkand Zimbabwe's Gonarezhou havebeen demolished to create the Greater

Limpopo Transfrontier Park. This hasresulted in a colossal and rather uniquewilderness area, again at least onpaper (poaching is sadly still rampantin Mozambique, and landmines leftfrom the civil war are still inflict grievingdamage to humans and wildlife alike).No self-respecting wildlife enthusiastand photographer should leave SouthAfrica without having visited the KrugerNational Park or one of the privatereserves along its borders - the list ofaccomodations inside or bordering thePark is quite extensive and it offers amultitude of options to all, from lowbudget and self-catering campsites toluxury game lodges. However, as weshall see, there are a few problems.

A paradise for birdwatchersand raptors lovers

continued on page 20 ›

A beautiful Tawny Eagle Aquilarapax, a fairly common resident of the

Kruger’s wooded areas. This is ahighly variable species.

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From the left: male WaterbuckKobus ellipsiprymnus, GiraffeGiraffa camelopardalis, PlainsZebra Equus quagga (formerlyclassified as burchelli, a specieswhose range is now restrictedto Central and East Africa).

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A big bull African elephantLoxodonta africana shows itsdispleasure with us. Krugerelephants are noted for their short tempers and must be approached with a measure of caution.

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Left, Africanor White-backedVulture Gypsafricanus; top right, thetruly dazzlingBurchell’sGlossyStarlingLamprotornisaustralis;bottom right,Carmine Bee-eater Meropsnubicoides, a commonresident andvisitor duringthe australsummer.

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BEAUTIFUL, YES – BUT IS IT WORTH IT?

Now, all this sounds quite wonderful –but is the Kruger a truly exceptionaldestination for wildlife photographers,as the promotional brochures of touroperators worldwide say? Well, yesand no. We have been there twice, intwo different seasons (winter andsummer), and we have once spent a fullmonth exploring it – covering more than4,000 kms on tarred and dust roads inthe process. We might have beenunlucky, but the results in both occasionshave been rather mixed - as you cansee from the photos which accompanythis text, we succeeded in documentinga lot of species, but the truly great shoteluded us. Make no mistake, othershave been much more successful than

we, and in much shorter stays! Butagain, it’s a matter of luck - and in theKruger luck apparently counts morethan it does in most other places, whichis not necessarily good news for awildlife photographer. To understand our ambivalent attitudetowards the Kruger, one has first to fullyunderstand its general layout and itsvisitors rules. The Kruger National Parkitself covers an enormous area (19,485square kilometres /7,523 sq miles) andis crisscrossed by a network of verywell-managed tarred and dust roads.Visitors with their own vehicle can stayin several affordable, rather basicgovernment-run camps and lodges(both full-board or self-catering) wellsited within the Park in strategiclocations, but if they desire to use theirown car they can only travel around in

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continued on page 23 ›

Lead by thedominant male,

a troop of SavannaBaboons Papio

cynocephalusursinus crosses the

Letaba river.

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This LeopardPantherapardusportrait wastaken whilestaying atKing’s Campin Timbavati,as the feline’sintense gazewas fixed ona herd ofimpalas a fewyards away.The followingattack wasunsuccessful.

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Left, LeopardPanthera pardusat Timbavati, summer;right, Blue Wildebeest or Common GnuConnochaetes taurinusat Balule, winter.Notice difference in vegetaion.

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camouflaged and cryptic species (suchas lions in tall dry grass, for example)might even go unnoticed at all, as theonly wildlife which can clearly beviewed at all times is that which isactually crossing the road or staying inclose proximity to it. Most casual visitorsare perfectly satisfied to click asnapshot of a lion lying on the tarmac,but we are not! Large animals - such aselephants and giraffe - are alwaysguaranteed, but even buffalo or rhinocan disappear with disconcerting easeand speed in such a habitat, so the best

spots for open, unimpeded sightingsare those by the wide, sandy riverbanks or from a few well-sitedpermanent hides. We certainly do notcondone “bundu bashing” (offroaddriving in the bush, usually withoutcaring too much about bushes and thelike), but being forced to miss a goodshot because there’s no way to get a bitcloser to the subject or to view it fromanother angle can be very unpleasant.For those unwilling to use their own car,the government lodges offer groupgame drives in large, open truck-like

a closed (not open-topped) vehicle andmust stick to the roads, with noexception - transgressors will be heavilyfined, which is only good given thegreat numbers of people visiting thePark on their own. Given the nature ofthe environment (mostly lowveldt bush,ie a sparsely wooded grassy plain,intersped with small trees and thornybushes), this can however often proveextremely frustrating for viewing andphotographing wildlife, as subjects canbe tantalizingly close and yet half-hidden by branches and foliage. Well-

continued on page 27 ›

A Giraffe Giraffacamelopardalis bathed in the golden hues of the drying lowveldt at the start of winter.

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Left, stiff,unmistakablylong eyelashesprotect theeyes of theendangeredSouthernGroundHornbillBucorvusleadbeaterias it forages among thornybushes andsharp grasses;right, thestriped liveriesof Zebra Equusquagga proveirresistible tophotographers.

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25A bull African elephantLoxodonta africana amblesamong the scorchedremains of a bush fire.Large expanses of theKruger lowveldt aredestroyed yearly bynaturally-occuring fires.

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The beautifulBateleur Eagle

Terathopiusecaudatus is a very

distinctive andcommon sight

in Kruger. Its common name

derives from thehabit of rocking

wings duringgliding or soaring

as if balancing on a rope.

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27vehicles - rather expensive and not idealfor the serious wildlife photographer.Game viewing is generally good,granted - but the fact that one is forcedto stick to the tarred road and to stayinside a closed vehicle gives to thewhole experience a rather unpleasant,artificial aftertaste, compounded by thecrowds of noisy and ratherdisinterested-looking visitors whichrapidly converge on the site of asighting. Kruger National Park itself isrelatively affordable, easily reachedand even more easily driven around,but in our experience it seems to belacking that extra touch in atmosphereor wildlife encounters that other, lesswell-promoted destinations offer today.

THE GREATER KRUGER: A REALISTIC OPTION?

The so-called Greater Kruger area istoday part and parcel of the actualPark, comprising a large number ofprivate Game and Nature Reserveswhich border it - most of the wildlife-proof fences which separated theseenormous properties from the Park truein the past have been now taken down,allowing wildlife to roam freely. Herethe situation is completely different - alarge number of well-run privateproperties, bush camps and lodgescompete fiercely for an internationaland affluent clientele, generallyproviding high quality services, often

continued on page 32 ›

A rare sightas a juvenile but

neverthelessenormous

Martial EaglePolemaetus

bellicosusswoops downfrom its perch.

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Top left, a pair ofAfricanHoopoe Upupaafricana;bottom left,EgyptianGooseAlopochenaegyptiacus;left, GreyLourieCorythaixoidesconcolor. All threespecies are quitecommonlyobserved in the Kruger NP.

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Death comes from above when the Martial Eagle strikes

Another unusualsighting as an adult

Martial EaglePolemaetus bellicosus

feeds on amongoose it has

just killed. This hugeraptor will actuallycatch and kill even

small antelopes.

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Left, a trulybeautiful adultmale GreaterKuduTragelaphusstrepsiceros,one of Africa’slargest andmost statelyantelopes;right, Lilac-breasted RollerCoraciascaudata, a colorful and commonresident.

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A true icon of the bush -

the African elephantLoxodonta africana.

Sadly, the healthylocal populations arenow being targetedanew by poachersfor the illegal ivory

trade.

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truly unique opportunities to thedemanding wildlife photographer.There are no proper tarmac roadsinside the private reserves, and mostgame drives take place along whiteroads or even - occasionally, and onlyif the situation warrants it - off road, sospectacular close-up portraits of lions,leopards and rhinos are virtuallyguaranteed, with great chances ofviewing and photographing lesscommon but equally interesting species

extremely luxurious accomodation anda greater flexibility. The names ofLondolozi, Timbavati or Sabi Sands aretruly legendary among wildlifephotographers and nature lovers fromall over the world, and wildlife andhabitat conservation are taken veryseriously indeed here. Private reservesand lodges offer two-hour long, well-guided game drives in open-topped 4-wheel drive vehicles and even bushwalks with armed wardens, offering

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Top, Southern Yellow-billedHornbill Tockus leucomelas;right, Red-billed Hornbill Tockuserythrorhynchus; bottom, Long-tailed or Magpie ShrikeCorvinella melanoleuca.

continued on page 34 ›

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A lovely portrait of a female Africanelephant Loxodontaafricana and hernewborn calf by the Letaba river.

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such as hunting dogs, hyena and evencheetas, not to mention scores ofherbivores and birds. But alas, there isa caveat - with so many lodgescompeting among themselves in a verylucrative business, often chargingexceptionally high prices and usuallyguaranteeing sightings of the Big Fiveto casual visitors (who - most of the times- will stay there for one or two nightsonly), one cannot wonder if there isn’t a

grain of truth in the rumors of human-habituated animals, “kills” set-up for thebenefit of the client and faked “lucky”encounters with feeding lions andleopards. We have absolutely no directproof of this, and we certainly do notbelieve all private lodges do this, butrumors abound. It certainly is a shamehearing such stories, because there are alot of very hard-working professionalsoperating in the Greater Kruger area

and several very respectable operationswhich have built spotless reputations in theyears past - after all, even if several privatereserves cover truly enormous areas, acertain behind-the-scenes familiarity withsome of their resident and most confidentwildlife is to be expected, and fieldresearchers are usually fully aware of this.Wild animals - or at least some of them -get used to jeeps and humans more easilythan people think. We are mentioning this

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Plains Zebra Equues quaggagrazing at sunset with BlueWildebeest Connochaetestaurinus in the background - an idyllic scene by Satara camp.

continued on page 36 ›

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A large White or Square-lipped Rhinoceros Ceratotheriumsimum emerges from the thorny,stunted vegetation of thelowveldt. Rhinos in the Krugerare being relentlessy targeted by poachers peddling theirhorns to the Asian market, with an average of a rhino being slaughtered every day.

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A sleek femaleLeopard Pantherapardus fleetingly

crosses a Park roadat dawn - a typical

Kruger sighting .

being fully aware that for most touristsand wildlife photographers this is not aproblem at all - indeed, it might even beconsidered a plus by the casual visitor.For us, however, the idea ofphotographing a human-habituatedanimal from the safety of a car is a bit ofa cheat (there’s a fine and occasionallyblurred line separating a nature reserveproper from a zoo), so we suggestchoosing your lodge very carefully,trying to read between the lines and

seeing if it truly suits your needs - thereare plenty of lodges and camps in theGreater Kruger where animals are reallywild, difficult to spot and oftendangerous. Habituated animals or not,visiting one of the many private reservesof the Greater Kruger is the only sensiblechoice for a seriously motivated wildlifephotographer - if one can afford the cost,which will often be astronomical for asafari lasting more than a couple ofdays. In conclusion, two options are

possible: visit the Kruger itself on yourown, keeping costs down and beingprepared for long drives and possibledisappointment, or visit a private reservein the Greater Kruger, plan a muchshorter visit and be prepared to spend afortune for great sightings of the Big Fiveand spectacular photo opportunities. Ifthat sounds like a tough deal, justremember most other National Parks inAfrica do not even offer you the luxuryof choosing between the two options. .

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Top left,Black-backedJackal Canismesomelas atBalule; top right, bull AfricanbuffaloSynceruscaffer by theOlifants river;bottom left,Hadeda IbisBostrychiahagedash atLetaba camp;bottom right,lionessesPanthera leoat Timbavati.Oncecommoneverywhere,lions are fastbecoming a severelyendangeredspeciesthroughoutAfrica.

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White or Square-lippedRhinoceros Ceratotheriumsimum at a watering hole

in Manyeleti, photographedwhile staying at Pungwe.

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Left, a babySavannaBaboon Papiocynocephalusursinussaddles itsmother’s backin typicaljockeyfashion. Right, a largemale of thesame speciesfeeding.Bottom left,the very largeKori BustardArdeotis kori,an impressiveresident of openwoodlandand drygrasslands.

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Left, a maleImpalaAepycerosmelampus - acommon andextraordinarilyelegant specieswhich is sadlyignored by most visitors. Right, a portrait of the statelyWaterbuck Kobusellipsiprymnus,another mostimpressiveantelope specieswhich is also oftenunderestimated by tourists.

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Severalwide bridgesspanningsome of theKruger’s mainrivers allowvisitors to step offtheir vehicles,regalingphotographerswith excellentopportunities.This is a NilecrocodileCrocodylusniloticusbasking onthe Olifantsriverbed.

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42Kruger and itssurroundingsoffer wonderfulreptile sightings:left, RinkhalsHemachatushaemachatus;center,MozambiqueSpitting cobraNajamossambica;right, Snouted orEgyptian cobraNaja annulifera.All three speciesare highlyvenomous and can proveextremelydangerous to man and beast alike..

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Two stunningexamples ofcryptic colorationand pattern: left,Southern AfricanRock PythonPython natalensis,a powerful andaggressiveconstrictor; right,Puff adder Bitisarietans, one ofAfrica’s mostdangerousvenomoussnakes.

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Left, AfricanGrey HornbillTockusnasutus, oftensighted insmall groups;top right,Brown-hoodedKingfisherHalcyonalbiventris;bottom right,two femaleOstrichStruthiocamelus,a trulyenormous andflightless bird2 meters tall.

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Left, TawnyEagle Aquilarapax in itsdark browncolor morph;top right, Red-crestedKorhaanEupodotisruficrista;bottom right,Three-bandedPloverCharadriustricollaris.Kruger can bea veritablebirdwatchingparadise,especiallyduring the wet summer.

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Left, CrestedBarbetTrachyphonusvaillantii;center, Fork-tailed DrongoDicrurusadsimilis;right, Lilac-breastedRollerCoraciascaudatus.

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Left, asummervisitor, theEuropeanRollerCoraciasgarrulus; right,a dazzlingyiridescentresident, theWhite-belliedSunbirdCinnyristalatala.Sunbirds can be bestand safelyobserved inmost of Krugercamps’ flowerbeds andgardens.

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Left, AfricanFish EagleHaliaeetusvocifer;center, Cape GlossyStarlingLamprotornisnitens; right,Black-eyed orDark-cappedBulbulPycnonotustricolor. Allthree speciesare extremelycommon and easilyobserved inthe KrugerNational Park.

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The Snoutedor Egyptian cobra

Naja annulifera is a large and very

active elapid,quick to spread a

hood and biteaggressively

in reaction todisturbance.

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Top left, amassive bullAfricanbuffaloSynceruscaffer; topright, Goliathheron Ardeagoliath;bottom right,the dazzlingblue andtuquoise flashof a Lilac-breastedRollerCoraciascaudatacaught in mid-flight; bottomleft, a largeNile crocodileCrocodylusniloticusbasking onthe Letabariver banks.

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The tree-dwellingBoomslangDispholidustypus is a rathercommon,extremelybeautiful andexceedinglydangerousrear-fangedsnake, whosebite oftencauses deathby internalbleeding. This is a male,easily identifiedby its brightgreen color.

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Top left, aNile crocodileCrocodylusniloticus inshallow waterin the Letabariver; top right,the fearsometusks of ayawninghippopotamusHippopotamusamphibius;bottom right, a huge herd ofAfrican buffaloSyncerus caffer;bottom left, arare nightimesighting of aCape PorcupineHystrixafricaeaustralisat Baluleni.

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The huge and seriouslyimpressiveGolden BrownBaboon SpiderAugacephalussp. is a rare andendangeredspecies which isvery seldomseen by tourists.

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Left,SteenbokRaphiceruscampestris;center,the strikingflowers of theImpala LilyAdeniummultiflorum;right, Flap-neckChameleonChamaeleodilepis.

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The art of blending and evendisappearingin thesurroundingsis notexclusive ofsmall-sizedspecies: left, AfricanelephantLoxodontaafricana;right, a pair of KlipspringerOreotragusoreotragus.Most lowveldtspecies in factdisplay a crypticcoloration.

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An imagewhich provesbeyond doubtthe dangerposed tohikers by thePuff adderBitis arietans,a large,sluggish andheavy-bodiedviperid muchfeared for itscryptic liveryand lighting-fast bite. This verycommon and prolificspecies is widelydistributed inmost of Africa.

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Two Africanvultures Gypsafricanussilhouettedagain thesunset sky atManyaleti - an imagesomewhatsymbolic ofthe demise of most ofAfrica’s onceabundantwildlife.

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USEFUL TIPS FOR YOUR EXPEDITION

Some simple, common sense, field-tested advice and information to make the best out of your trip and avoid hassles, worries and problems

ROUTE: The most convenient choice is to have yourinternational flight land in Johannesburg at O.R.Tambo International Airport, the largest and busiestairport in Africa and a gateway for international airtravel to and from the rest of Southern Africa. Fromthere you can take a connecting domestic flight toone of the three airstrips in Kruger NP, namelyPhalaborwa Airpor t (Nor thern KNP),Hoedspruit Eastgate Airport (Central KNP) orKruger Mpumalanga International Airport (SouthernKNP) depending on your lodge’s location. Thoseinterested in self driving around Kruger can arrangeto rent a car at the final landing destination anddrive all the way to the lodge or camp of choice.

MEANS OF TRANSPORT: Any decent rented carwill suffice to self-drive around Kruger Park as thetarred and sand roads are well maintained and wellmapped out - there is no need to rent a 4x4 vehicle.Gas stations are also available at several camps.

CURRENCY: South African Rand, but USD andEuros are commonly accepted in all lodges.

ACCOMODATION: Pick your choice from self-catering camping sites to incredibly luxurious,exclusive bush lodges. The numbers are really toohigh to list them all here, so it’s a matter of choosingcarefully or trusting a reliable travel agent when

selecting your accomodation. We can personallyrecommend Baluleni Safari Lodge in Balule Reserve(family atmosphere, great food and hospitality, veryaffordable), Pungwe Bush Camp in ManyeletiReserve (excellent, rustic tented camp in the mid-price range) and King’s Camp in Timbavati(extremely luxurious and very expensive, exclusivelodge). Government camps inside the Kruger - theideal choice for self-drivers and self-caterers - includerelatively affordable accomodation at Satara,Skukuza, Letaba, Olifants and several other sites.

FOOD: South Africans have a national obsessionwith braai (in a broad sense, meats grilled on an

At-a-glance travel guideCOUNTRY OF DESTINATION: SOUTH AFRICA

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open fire), and we must admit that we had the best,juiciest steaks of our entire life in a restaurant inJohannesburg. Food at the lodges can however beextremely varied with an abundance of fruit andvegetables too - the tourist industry is highlydeveloped here and always ready to cater to allneeds and tastes. Water is also safe to drink.

LANGUAGE: Afrikaans and English.

WORRIES: South Africa has an extremely highincidence of armed robberies and serious violencein most big cities, so be warned - walking around atnight or in several urban neighborhoods can be anextremely risky proposition, even for the locals. Mostsmall towns in the Kruger area are however perfectlysafe for tourists. It goes without saying that allwildlife is potentially dangerous and that all safetymeasures must be strictly adhered to when on safari

- this cannot be repeated often enough, as accidentsdo happen (especially with elephants) and peopletend to be extremely careless, mostly out ofignorance. Responsible game wardens, safaridrivers and wildlife guides in your lodge will explainal l the detai ls and keep an eye on you, butremember always this is the African bush - lions canactually eat people and elephants can actuallystomp on them or overturn their car, so don’t be silly.

HEALTH: No serious risks of dangerous tropicaldiseases. Malaria is occasionally mentionedbetween December and April - which is the end ofthe rainy season - but the best thing is just try to avoidgetting bitten. The most vulnerable times arebetween dusk and dawn, and visitors are advised tostay indoors during these periods, or cover exposedskin with light clothing or insect repellants. Whenyou go walking keep an eye on snakes and ticks.

CLIMATE: Kruger National Park is located in asummer rainfall area. Such precipitation is usuallyconvectional and can result in heavy downpours.The summer months (which in the Southernemisphere go from October to April) are hot,pleasantly dry and often balmy. Winters are warmand mild during daytime, although visitors going onnight drives wil l require warm clothing andnights/early mornings can be extremely cold.

BESIDES: South Africa is a stunningly beautifulcountry, with marvelous landscapes and a hugevariety of National Parks. An invaluable source ofinformation about the Kruger National Park, itsstructure and lodges and anything else one mightever need to organize a trip there can be found atwww.krugerpark.co.za/ (this is a commercialwebsite), while the official overview can be found atwww.sanparks.org/parks/kruger/. .

One of the world’s top destinations for wildlife photographers

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