A Drive on the Wild Side

7/30/2019 A Drive on the Wild Side

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A drive on

the wild side

NAMIBIA: A National Parks astonishing wildlife Presents the

real africa to

Josie dale.


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Zebra, giraffe, springbok, kudu, red hartebeest, impala, gemsbok and blue

wildebeest drink their fill. The magic of Africa unfolds, like a living documentary, just

metres from our car. Quietly the animals withdraw, and suddenly 50 metres away

three adult elephants and a calf appear. Light on their feet for such huge animals,

theyre known affectionately as grey ghosts. A loud gurgling, like a toilet flushing,ensues as they suck water into their trunks and transfer it to their mouths. The calf

enjoys a muddy wallow, squirting liquid mud at the adults with squeals of glee.

South African bush elephants can reach speeds of 40kmh.

A delightful scene, but this is not a zoo, and the closeness of these seemingly gentle

giants is a stark reminder of our vulnerability. South African bush elephants weigh

from six to nine tonnes and can reach a top speed of 40kmh. They tower above us

and we are anxious to ensure we avoid their path ending up squashed, like road

kill, is not part of our itinerary.

We were told If you want to see the real Africa go to Etosha, but you must drive

yourselves. My husband, Alistair, and I flew to the Namibian capital, Windhoek,

collected a small VW Polo rental car and set off on the 600km drive north.

Outside the city there is little sign of human habitation, apart from infrequent

ramshackle townships. Namibia, once known as South West Africa, is one of the

worlds most sparsely populated countries. Sitting between the Kalahari Desert and

the Atlantic Ocean, its bordered by Angola, Botswana, Zambia and South Africa.

Namibia escaped the clutches of South Africas apartheid government when it was

granted independence in 1990.

A sealed road stretches ahead through endless brown, tussocky grass and scrub,

reminiscent of an alp-less Mackenzie Country. The speed limit, largely ignored by

locals, is 120kmh so we make good time.

The only hazards encountered on the road are fox terrier-sized dik-dik antelope

intent on suicide, and the occasional fussing warthog.

Our comfortable chalet at Mokuti Lodge, 2km from Etoshas eastern gate, sports a

prominent notice: Please keep your door closed to exclude snakes and scorpions.We follow instructions carefully.


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Collapsing in the bar for pre-dinner drinks, we pass a pleasant hour unashamedly

eavesdropping on our fellow guests a British tour group with decidedly posh

accents, all appropriately attired in theirOut of Africa safari suits.

Next morning we discover disconcerting evidence of nocturnal visitors in many paw,

hoof and slither marks around our chalet. Thankfully there is no sign of the culprits

as we head to the lodge for more of Mokutis unique African hospitality. The

restaurant provides outdoor tables and breakfast is shared with irresistible begging

ground squirrels and persistent hornbills.

Etosha National Park, in North-Central Namibia, is approximately 23,000 square kms

and along its centre is a 5000 square km saltpan. The parks name means great

white place of dry water. Winter is peak viewing time for wildlife because the saltpan

is dry and the animals are dependent on the waterholes around its edge. Etosha

protects 114 mammal species, 340 bird varieties and a number of reptile and

amphibian species.

The first day we drive 70km to Halali Rest Camp, stopping at numerous waterholes

along the way. The rough roads are unsealed and soon dust permeates everything,

including our mouths.

We stand on the edge of the saltpans inhospitable white moonscape, fascinated by

the watery mirages shimmering in the distance. The surrounding arid scrubby

grasslands smell crunchy, and its difficult to imagine how this sunburnt fragile land

sustains such large numbers of animals, birds, and reptiles during the dry season.

Inhospitable Etosha saltpan

Constant close-up activity around the waterholes makes moving on difficult we

cant miss a thing! The animal kingdom has its own hierarchical rules and species

take their allotted place in the queue for water. A family of warthogs stands back

patiently, while a herd of zebra drinks greedily. The zebra depart and its the turn of

the warthog family cute but ugly creatures with lethal tusks. They look comical

running along, bums in the air, with tails pointing skyward.


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Traffic is sparse and were frequently the only observers parked at waterholes. This

is peak season, but the majority of people appear to travel in organised tour groups

allocated a separate area of the Park.

We arrive at Halali camp before the sunset gate closure, and head for the bar and a

cold beer to wash away the dust. Happily, although our accommodation is basic, it

includes a private bathroom.

Campsites are available and there are several family groups and young tourists

gathered around their tents or motor homes cooking over a braai (barbecue). A

buffet restaurant is open for the lazy, or unprepared, like us.

After dinner we climb the rocks nearby and settle in with a bottle of South African

merlot. The floodlit Moringa waterhole, 30m below, treats us to a constant parade of

wildlife throughout the evening. Firstly two grunting white rhino noisily and playfully

joust, and aggressively chase animals that dare to approach for water.

A herd of thirteen elephant (including two small calves) arrive and spoil their fun. A

rhino bellows and snorts, pawing the ground, before charging half-heartedly at the

intruders. The rhino then decide discretion is the better part of valour and retreat

huffily into the bush.

The delightful elephant family enjoy themselves, shamelessly emitting the loudest

farts I have ever heard. Subsequent self-satisfied sighs are accompanied by

elephantine smiles. The adults have an endearing habit of resting one huge back

foot on the other, much like a person crossing their legs. The tiny calves remainclose to their protective mothers as the juveniles jostle and skylark like unruly

teenagers.

The herds sudden, silent departure signals the return of other animals, including

jackal, hyena and African wildcat. According to locals, leopards often frequent the

waterhole but sadly, not tonight.

Dawn brings our last day amongst the park animals, and we set off to drive 70km to

Okaukuejo Camp. Waterholes along the way are a magnet to large herds of zebra,

gemsbok, impala, springbok and the odd ostrich.


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The iconic springbok, clad in their smart reddish/tan, dark brown and white coats, are

sociable chaps, communicating by barking. They take off straight-legged,

repeatedly bouncing high in the airlocals call this pronking (showing off). They

can survive without water over the dry season by eating flowers, seeds and leaves of

shrubs before dawn.

Zebra, with their erect Mohawk-like manes and unique black and white stripes, look

angelic but they wield authority over antelope and impala by viciously kicking and

biting. A mare and her foal lie fearlessly across the road, forcing Alistair to detour

around them.

Zebra rest on the road

My favourite, the elegant giraffe, appears uncharacteristically clumsy when drinking

because of his long forelegs. Surprisingly, for such a large animal, they are monarch

of animal stop-outs averaging less than two hours sleep per twenty-four hour

period.

Our rondavel at Okaukuejo Camp

We arrive at our comfortable Okaukuejo rondavel mid-afternoon and locate the petrol

station. Despite the isolation, locals are conversant with the finer things in life.

Learning we are Kiwis, enterprising African pump attendant, Albert, cackles

delightedly and shakes Alistairs hand vigorously. Ja man, All Blacks best - you send

me All Black jerseymy size large. He provides his name and address written

neatly on a card but no money guess the jersey is to be a present!


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In the nineteenth century McKeirnan, an American trader, observed of Etosha All the

menageries in the world turned loose would not compare to the sight I saw today.

More than 130 years on, we concur. Experiencing Etosha and its wonderful wildlife

has been the most enjoyable travel experience of our life. Already we are

contemplating delivering Alberts All Black jersey in person.

Photos: Animal images title page by Ute von Ludwiger, remainder Josie Dale

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A Drive on the Wild Side