A guide forhandling and

using

650 epoxy

• Aluminium Boat Seam Repair• Plastic Canoe & Kayak Repairs

• Wood Construction & Repair • Repairing Splits, Cracks

& Delaminations• Create Durable Tips on

Wood Paddles & Oars• Gluing to Wet Surfaces& Surfaces Underwater

• Bonding Fasteners

w w w. w e s t s y s t e m . c o m . a u

650 is the latest addition to the WESTSYSTEM line of epoxy products. While G/flex offersphysical properties and applications that aredifferent than WEST SYSTEM 105 Resin-based epoxies,they share the same high standards for performanceand reliability.

G/flex 650 is the result of years of experimentation todevelop a toughened epoxy that was simple to use,viscous enough not to drain out of a joint, and wouldadhere tenaciously to a variety of materials underdifficult conditions.

This advanced formula is resilient enough to absorb thestress of expansion, contraction, shock and vibration.G/flex 650 offers a superior grip to aluminium and othermetals, plastics, fibreglass, ceramic, masonry, glass,damp wood, difficult-to-bond wood species anddissimilar materials.

G/flex 650 is a two part system with a user-friendly 1:1mix ratio, that can also be used as a coating or modifiedwith WEST SYSTEM fillers and additives, and used towet-out fibreglass tapes and fabrics. It’s working time is40 minutes at 25oC, and reaches a full cure in 24 hours.

G/flex 650 is available in easy-to-dispense squeezebottles in 250ml and 1 ltr packs.

Sample projects include:

• repairing leaks in aluminium boats

• repairs to polyethylene and ABScanoes & kayaks, wooden boats

• repairs to household and sporting equipment.

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WEST SYSTEM is the world's leading brand of marineepoxy, created by Gougeon Brothers, who understandthe engineering and chemistry required to formulateepoxies for high-performance composite structures. Itrequires thorough research, rigorous test programs,and direct experience with today’s high-performanceboats and other engineered structures. This experienceand dedication to performance has given WESTSYSTEM a level of quality that sets it apart from otherbrands of epoxy.

Safe, Strong, Reliable

WEST SYSTEM and G/flex are registered trademarks of West System Inc.

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Aluminium boat seam repairDetermine the exact locations of leaks by putting thedry boat in the water, or partially filling a small boat withwater to see where it leaks.

Pressure wash the leaking area to be sure debris isremoved from the rivets and seams. Abrade the areawith a wire wheel on a drill motor or a wire brush tofurther remove debris. Drain and dry the boat.

Mix a small batch of G/flex 650 and transfer it to asyringe.

Heat the leaky seams with a heatgun or propane torch. The heatwill drive residual moisture fromthe seams in the form of steamor boiling water, which is a goodvisual indicator that you arebringing the metal up to temperature (1).

Inject the epoxy with the syringe or apply it with a smallbrush along the seam while themetal is still warm (2). Theepoxy will thin when it touchesthe warm metal and will flowdeep into the crack. Use theheat gun to warm the metalalong the seam as you direct theepoxy into it. The heat will help release air in the epoxyand speed the cure.

On very loose and leaky joints, a combination of newrivets and epoxy will work best. If rivets are notavailable, leaks have been sealed by filling the seamwith thickened epoxy.

First warm the metal and apply the liquid epoxy asdescribed above. Then use a putty knife, plasticspreader or syringe to force thickened G/flex into theseam. Thicken the epoxy with WEST SYSTEM 403Microfibre Blend to a mayonnaise consistency. Try topush the mixture through the seam to the other side ofthe hull. Thickened G/flex will bridge gaps and stay inthe seam until it cures.

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420 Aluminium Powder can be added to the thickenedepoxy mixture prior to forcing it into the seams to makethe repair less obvious and to provide UV protection forthe epoxy.

Wipe up excess uncured epoxy from both sides usingpaper towels. Solvents can be used sparingly if care istaken to avoid washing out the epoxy in the seam ordissolving paint in the area.

Let the epoxy cure overnight before using the boat. Youmay use a heat gun or heat lamp to shorten the curetime.

Plastic canoe & kayak repairsPlastic canoes and kayaks are often made with thermo-formed plastics like HDPE (high-density polyethylene),ABS, and occasionally PVC. G/flex adheres to thesematerials if specific surface preparations are followed.See Surface Preparation in this booklet.

Split and crack repair

Open up cracks and splits with a saber saw or hacksawblade to create a slight gap in the break. Bevel theedges of the crack with a sharpscraper like the end of a sharpchisel or with a cabinet scraperto create a 13mm long bevel onboth sides of the split and onboth sides of the hull (3). Sandthe beveled surfaces to roundthe edges and create moretaper with 80-grit sandpaper (4).

Flame treat HDPE and LDPE(high-density and low-densitypolyethylene) plastic with apropane torch to oxidize the repair surfaces.See Surface Preparation

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Mix an appropriately sized batch of G/flex 650thickened with 403 Microfibre Blend to amayonnaise consistency. Apply a bead of thethickened epoxy to the beveled joint, over-filling itslightly.

Cover the epoxy filled joint with 50mm wide cellophanepackaging tape while forcing the excess (overfill) epoxythrough to the other side of the joint. Avoid using toomuch force, which could leave the taped side underfilled.

Spread out the epoxy on the opposite side to fill in thebeveled seam. Add or remove epoxy to fill the bevelflush.

Allow to cure 7-10 hours before removing tape. Use ascraper or sandpaper to remove high spots and smooththe surface. Paint the area with plastic-compatiblepaint. Refer to paint manufacturers instructions forapplication.

Small hole repair

Canoes and kayaks are often dragged over sand androcks, resulting in worn off ends and eventual leaksnear the bow and stern.

Clean the area being repaired with a mild solvent likerubbing alcohol and paper towels. Sand with 80-gritsandpaper to create a slight taper around the perimeterof the repair. Flame treat the repair surfaces of HDPEand LDPE plastics.

If the worn section has a gap that is too wide to bridgewith thickened epoxy, say 6mm to 8mm across, coverthe back of the hole with a temporary backer to supportthe epoxy while it cures. The backer can be a wad ofplastic wrap, piece of polystyrene foam, or anyappropriately shaped material covered with plasticwrap. The plastic wrap will allow for easy removal afterthe epoxy cures.

Mix an appropriately sized batch of G/flex 650 Epoxythickened with 403 Microfibre Blend to a mayonnaiseconsistency.

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Apply the epoxy to the area with a mixing stick orplastic spreader. Apply enough epoxy to fill the holeand build up low areas to match the original thickness.Apply additional epoxy, if necessary, while previousapplications are still tacky.

Allow to cure 7-10 hours before removing excess curedepoxy and shaping the surface with a cabinet scraper,file, or sandpaper. Paint the area with a plastic-compatible paint.

Create skid plates or repair larger holes

Avoid wearing holes on the keels and ends of canoesand kayaks by applying an abrasion resistant fibreglassstrip on the wear areas. Fibreglass reinforcement canalso be used to patch larger holes (over 8mm).

Clean the surface with a mild solvent like rubbing alcoholand paper towels. Sand the endof the canoe along the bottomand up the sides a few incheswith 80-grit (5). This area willdefine the size of the skid plate.Flame treat HDPE or LDPEplastics. If you are patching ahole, cover the back with a temporary backer asdescribed earlier.

Cut three or four layers of light fibreglass cloth (200grm- 300grm plain weave) to cover the sanded area. Cutthe bottom piece of fibreglass to fit to the sanded/flame-treated boundary. Trim each successive layer an inchor two narrower and shorter than the previous. Thistapers the thickness of the fibreglass skid plate/patchtoward the edges so it will easily deflect and cling to thehull as it flexes.

Mix enough G/flex 650 to wet-out and apply one or twolayers of fabric.

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Apply a coat of epoxy to the sanded/treated area. Laythe largest piece of fibreglass onto the wet epoxy.Apply more epoxy to wet out the fibreglass cloth. Ifnecessary, a heat gun can beused to warm the epoxy andimprove wet out on heavier fibre-glass fabrics. Use a spreader tosmooth the fabric and removeexcess epoxy (6).

Repeat the fibreglass application with the remainingpiece(s). Centre each smaller layer on the one beforeit. Wet out the fabric, and then use a spreader tosmooth the fabric and remove excess epoxy.

Apply fairing compound if desired while the fibreglassapplication is still tacky. See Fairing (surface filling).

Allow to cure 7-10 hours before removing any roughedges or excess cured epoxy with a cabinet scraper,file or sandpaper. Paint the area with a plasticcompatible paint.

Wood construction and repairG/flex 650 is an excellent adhesive for wood. It isespecially good for gluing hardwoods and for tropicalwoods like teak. There are many uses for G/flex inbuilding and repairing boats, indoor andoutdoor furniture, cabinetry, and trim.

See Special Surface Preparation and Bonding for basicgluing information.

Here are some additional wood bonding applicationsthat extend the uses of G/flex 650.

Joining wood

BUTT JOINTS are used to edge glue lumber to createwider boards. Edges are typically square cut at 90o

and simply butted up to one another when gluing. Thisjoint is used for edge gluing lumber; it is notrecommended for end gluing, or lengthening boardsparallel to the grain.

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SCARF JOINTS are used to jointwo pieces of wood togetheralong their length. The ends oflumber are machined with an 8:1to 12:1 bevel angle (7). Longerbevels create more gluingsurface and potentially stronger joints. Scarf joints areoften used to replace damaged sections of frames andribs in traditionally built wood boats. Use G/flex 650unthickened if your fits are good or thicken G/flex 650with 403 Microfibre Blend to bridge gaps in the joint.

DUTCHMAN is a wood spliceused to repair damagedsections of wood timbers. Werecommend creating an 8:1bevel (8) on each end of the jointto provide adequate gluing areato maintain structural integrity.

SISTER PLANKS are used tobuild up the strength of thelumber by gluing additionalpieces or sister planks on one orboth sides.

Bond sister planks wherestructural members have beendamaged by rot (9) or weakenedby cut-outs for plumbing or drainholes (10). They are usefulwhere weight or appearance isnot a factor.

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8 Dutchman

LaminatedSister frame

Sister frames

Scarf joint

8:1 minimum bevel

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Repairing splits, cracks & delaminationsPaddles, oars, garden tool handles, and sportsequipment made with wood or laminated materials cansplit or crack under normal use or abuse. G/flex 650’stenacious adhesion and ability to resist shock loadsmake it a good choice for these kinds of repairs.

Insert a wedge into the crack(s) to expose as muchbonding area as possible without increasing thedamage. Heat the area to be repaired with a heat gunor hair dryer. This will lower the epoxy's viscosity oncontact, allowing it to penetrate deeper into cracks. Fixthe item in position so gravity will pull epoxy into thecrack.

Mix a small batch of G/flex 650. Work epoxy into thecrack with the mixing stick or a small brush, or injectepoxy with an 807 Syringe. Use a fine blade or stick topush epoxy as far down into the crack as possible.

Wait a few minutes for absorption to take place beforeremoving wedge and clamping the crack(s) closed.Allow to cure 7-10 hours before removing clamps andsanding away epoxy squeeze-out. Wait 24 hoursbefore using.

LAMINATING multiple layers of wood strips is a greatway to create custom-shaped lumber for frames, sisterframes, legs, arches, railings,and trim. Laminated lumber isstronger and more stable thansteambent or sawn lumber.

Glue strips using the prep-aration and bonding techniquesin ‘Bonding’ page 16. Use a jigor mold to clamp strips to thedesired shape (11, 12). Jigsshould be strong enough toprovide even clamping pressureand prevent springback untilthe epoxy cures.

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Fasten blocks to table

Plywood jig

Staples can be used toclamp thin strips

Use plastic to avoidgluing to jig

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Thicken the epoxy as necessary to bridge gaps or fill inmissing material. A layer or two of light weight fibre-glass fabric (200 - 300 grm plain weave) can beapplied for additional reinforcing.Refer to Fibreglassing.

Create durable tips onwood paddles and oarsThe tips of canoe and kayak paddles take lots of abusefrom scraping bottom, pushing off rocks, and fendingoff debris. Use G/flex 650 to produce a durable edgeto protect tips from damage.

Sand varnish or paint from thetip of the paddle to expose freshwood. Use sandpaper on ahard sanding block to create aslight bevel around the edge ofthe paddle tip (13).

Apply a generous coating of G/flex 650 to the sandedsurfaces to wet out the exposed end grain.

Mix an appropriate amount of G/flex 650 thickened with403 Microfibre Blend to a mayonnaise consistency.Apply a thick bead of thethickened mixture around theedge of the paddle blade (14).

Apply additional thickenedepoxy to extend the tip, ifdesired, after the initialapplication has gelled and will support the additionalweight.

Allow to cure 7-10 hours. Wash with water beforeshaping the tip with a file or sandpaper. Apply paint orvarnish if desired.

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45o Bevel

Sand tip to shape afterepoxy cures

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Gluing to wet surfaces andsurfaces underwaterWhile gluing to a dry and properly prepared surface isbest for producing reliable long-term bonds, gluing todamp, wet, and even underwater surfaces is possible.

Abrade bonding surfaces with 80-grit sandpaper. Mixan appropriately sized batch of G/flex thickened with403 Microfibre Blend to a mayonnaise consistency.Gluing to wet surfaces requires a thickened adhesivethat will displace water in the scratches and pores atthe bonding surface when it is applied.

Forcefully apply the thickened epoxy onto the bondingsurfaces with a plastic spreader or stiff brush.

Bring the mating surfaces together and apply justenough clamping pressure to squeeze out excessepoxy and moisture. Allow to cure 7-10 hours beforeremoving clamps and 24 hours before stressing thejoint.

Bonding fastenersG/flex 650 can be used for a variety of household andmarine projects and repairs that involve threadedfasteners, especially fasteners subject to shock orvibration. Installing screws and other threaded fastenerswith G/flex 650 dramatically improves loadcarrying capacity.

Use G/flex 650 to install new fasteners and hardware,repair stripped screw holes and replace missing woodaround fasteners. When cured, G/flex can be sanded,sawn, nailed and screwed. Small screws, nails, andtacks can be driven into it without pre-drilling. Largerfasteners may require a pilot hole. Experiment for bestresults.

The easiest method is to simply wet out new pilot holes(or stripped fastener holes) (15) with G/flex 650 prior toinstalling the screws (16).

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The epoxy will soak into theexposed end grain on the insideof the hole, effectively increasingfastener diameter. This resultsin more holding power, andseals water out so the woodstays drier. Drier wood isstronger than damp wood.

For even greater strength andstability, drill oversized holes 2/3the depth of the fastener. Wetout the holes and the fastenerwith epoxy, then fill the hole withthickened epoxy/adhesive filler(17). Use 403 Microfibre Blendto thicken the epoxy to amayonnaise consistency. Installthe fasteners with just enoughforce to hold the hardware inplace until the epoxy cures.

Bonding anchor boltsOne of epoxy's best uses is to bond anchor bolts intoconcrete. The principle is the same as for wood. Drillan oversized hole. Wet out the hole with epoxy. Thenplace the bolt or threaded rod in the hole.

It's a good idea to put a nut on the threaded rod so thatits top is barely above the surface (18). This centers therod in the hole and will help to reduce the creep load onthe epoxy when the hardware item is tightened down.

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Fill holes flush withthickened epoxy

Centre nut justabove surface

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BASIC TECHNIQUESTrim the tips of the resin and hardener spouts about6mm from the end.

Before mixing epoxy, gather all necessary applicationtools, clamps and equipment. Check all parts for correctfit and be sure all surfaces to be coated are properlyprepared.

Mixing and curingDispense equal volumes ofG/flex 650 Resin and Hardenerinto a small mixing cup (1). Usea mixing stick to thoroughlyblend the resin and hardener,while scraping the sides andbottom of the mixing cup (2).Small quantities can be mixedon a paper or plastic palette.

After mixing the resin and hardener, you will have about45 minutes, at 22oC, the epoxy mixture will solidify in3-4 hours and reach a workable cure in 7-10 hours theepoxy may be sanded, clamps can be removed, andjoints can be moderately loaded. Wait 24 hours beforesubjecting joints to high loads.

Epoxy cures faster in warmer temperatures and slowerin cooler temperatures. When a quicker cure isdesired, apply moderate heat to substantially reducecure time. G/flex 650 will cure in temperatures as lowas 5oC, but cure very slowly. When using G/flex at lowertemperatures, it is a good idea to warm resin and hard-ener to room temperature while dispensing and mixing.

Curing epoxy generates heat. Thicker layers of epoxygenerally cure faster than thinner layers, as this heat isconcentrated in thicker layers and dissipated in thinnerlayers. Use caution when mixing large batches ofG/flex 650. A large, confined quantity of curing epoxymay generate enough heat to burn your skin or melt aplastic mixing cup.

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Scrape sidesbottom & corners

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Surface preparationFor best adhesion, bonding surfaces should be:

CLEAN - Remove loose, chalky or flaky coatings, andcontaminants such as grease, oil, wax, and moldrelease. Clean contaminated surfaces with anappropriate solvent applied with plain white papertowels. Wipe the surface with a clean, dry paper towelbefore solvent dries. Do not use laundered rags toapply or remove solvent as they may contaminate thesurface with fabric softener residue.

SANDED - Sand smooth and non-porous surfaces with80-grit aluminium oxide sandpaper to provide goodtexture for the epoxy to “key” into. Brush away sandingdust.

DRY - Although G/flex 650 can be used to bond dampand wet surfaces (see Gluing to damp and wet surfaces), maximum adhesion will be achieved whenbonding to dry surfaces.

Additional surface preparationMetalsSand or grit-blast the surface to expose bright metal.

Clean the area with acetone using white paper towels.Allow the surface to dry completely.

Abrade through wet epoxy - Apply a thin coat of G/flex650 and immediately scrub metal surfaces through thewet epoxy coating with a fine wire brush or sandpaper.

Adhesion to aluminium can best be improved by treatingit with a two-part Aluminium Etch prior to applying theepoxy. Aluminium can be prepared using the ‘abradethrough wet epoxy’ method with good results if anAluminium Etch is not available.

PlasticsSand ABS, PVC and polycarbonate plastics with 80-gritsandpaper to provide texture for improved adhesion.

Some plastics like HDPE and LDPE (high-density andlow-density polyethylene) benefit from flame treating.First wipe the bonding surface with a solvent to removecontamination and dry with a clean paper towel.

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Flame Treating - Pass the flame of a propane torchacross the surface quickly. Allow the flame to touch thesurface, but keep it moving - about 300 to 500 mm persecond. No obvious change takes place, but the flameoxidizes the surface and dramatically improvesadhesion with adhesives and coatings applied over it.

While flame treating will improve adhesion to mostplastics, it appears to provide the greatest benefit topolyethylene. If you are unsure of the type of plastic, itdoesn't hurt to flame treat.

Hardwoods, including tropical woodsBonding to dry wood (between 6 and 12% moisturecontent) is best for achieving long-term reliable bonds.Sand mating surfaces with 80-grit parallel to the grain.Clean oily woods with a solvent such as acetone,lacquer thinner, or isopropyl alcohol. Apply solvent withplain white paper towels. Wipe the surface with aclean, dry paper towel before solvent dries. Do not uselaundered rags to apply or remove solvent.

The extent of wood failure in tensile adhesion testsindicate that tensile adhesion achieved using G/flex650 , with proper surface preparation, approached thegrain strength of the wood in all of the woods we tested.

Surface Preparation for various dry materialsMaterial

Fibreglass laminate

Aluminium

Steel

Steel-galvanized

Copper

Bronze

Lead

ABS

PVC

Polycarbonate (Lexan™)

HDPE, LDPE plastic

Ipe

Teak

Aluminium Etch, two part

Wire brush through wet epoxy

Wire brush through wet epoxy

Wire brush through wet epoxy

Wire brush through wet epoxy

Wire brush through wet epoxy

Flame treat optional

Flame treat optional

Flame treat optional

Flame treat

70% Isopropyl Alcohol wipe

Solvent wipe

As necessary,

Remove soft and loose

surface material

Remove contamination

with solvent wipe

Sand with medium-grit

sandpaper

Basic Surface Preparation Additional Surface Preparation

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BondingApply the epoxy mixture to all properly prepared matingsurfaces and clamp the components in position beforethe epoxy begins to gel. Use just enough clampingpressure to squeeze a small amount of epoxy out of thejoint. Leaving some glue in the joint increases bondingstrength. Allow the epoxy to cure thoroughly beforestressing the joint.

Thicken the epoxy with WEST SYSTEM 403 MicrofibreBlend, as necessary to fill voids when gluing unevenmating surfaces or to bridge gaps in joints.

Use a spreader or notched trowel to apply G/flex 650to larger surfaces prior to clamping. Use a pipe cleaneror syringe to apply adhesive to hard to reach areassuch as cracks and fastener holes when bondinghardware.

Making filletsWhen parts are joined at or near right angles, fillets canbe used to add considerable strength to the joint byincreasing the surface area of the bond. Make fillets byapplying a bead of G/flex 650, thickened to a mayonnaise consistency, alongthe inside corner of the joint.Form the epoxy into a covesection using the round end of amixing stick (3). Clean off theexcess epoxy with the beveledend of the mixing stick beforethe epoxy gels (4). 4

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FibreglassingLightweight fibreglass fabrics and tapes (300gm -400gm plain weave range) can be used with G/flex 650when reinforcement is desired to add stiffness orabrasion resistance, or to patch a damaged area.

Cut the fabric to fit the area. If heavier reinforcing isdesired, use multiple thin layers rather than a singlethick layer. Properly prepare the surface before applyingfabric.

Coat the substrate with epoxy.Lay the fabric in position on thewet epoxy. Spread mixed epoxyonto the fabric using a plasticspreader (5). When the fabricand substrate have beensaturated, use the spreader tosmooth and remove excessepoxy (6). Repeat the processwith additional layers. Use a heatgun or hair dryer to moderatelywarm the epoxy, lowering itsviscosity and improving glasswet-out on heavier fabrics or in cooler temperatures.

Fairing (surface filling)Use WEST SYSTEM 410 Microlight to thicken G/flex 650for use as a fairing compound. This mixture also worksfor light bonding, surface filling, and shaping. Themore 410 Microlight you add to the epoxy, theeasier it will be to carve and sand. Use a mixing stickor spreader to apply and shape the mixture slightlyhigher than the desired surface contour. Sand it toshape after the epoxy cures. Seal the sanded fairingcompound with unthickened epoxy before painting.

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Coating and re-coatingG/flex 650 can be used as a moisture barrier coating.It has a mixed viscosity similar to honey, but it has goodflow characteristics when brush applied. Use a stiffbristled brush (cut the bristles of a standard paintbrushto half their length) or apply with a flat spreader for bestresults. On horizontal surfaces, a fine notched trowelcan be used to apply a uniform coat. One to two coatsare usually enough given the viscosity of G/flex 650.

If you are gluing to, or applying more coats of epoxy,apply the next coat while the previous coating is stilltacky - usually 2-3 hours after applying at 22oC. CuredG/flex can be varnished, painted, or recoated or bondedto with epoxy. Wash cured G/flex with water, and sandsurfaces to a dull finish to provide a texture for goodadhesion.

Blending epoxiesAdvanced users can blend G/flex 650 Epoxy withWEST SYSTEM 105 Resin-based epoxy combinationsto modify toughness, flexibility, cure speed, viscosity,strength and elongation. The epoxy blend will haveproperties/characteristics derived from both epoxysystems, roughly in proportion to the percentage ofeach epoxy in the blend.

Blending WEST SYSTEM 105/205 with G/flex 650 willspeed up the cure of G/flex, lower its mixed viscosity(for better wet out of heavier fibreglass fabrics), andincrease rigidity of the cured epoxy, compared to usingG/Flex 650 alone.

To blend G/flex 650 Epoxy with 105 Resin-basedepoxies, you must meter the appropriate resin tohardener mix ratio of each epoxy prior to blending thetwo combinations together.

CALL ATL Composites Technical Team for additionalinformation on blending G/flex with other WESTSYSTEM Epoxy combinations.

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Manufactured under licence byATL Composites Pty LtdPO Box 2349 Southport Queensland 4215 AustraliaT (+61) 7 5563 1222 F (+61) 7 5563 1585info@atlcomposites.comwww.atlcomposites.comwww.westsystem.com.auATL composites

GENERAL INFORMATIONClean up

Clean resin or mixed epoxy residue with acetone. Cleanhardener residue with warm soapy water.

Dispose of resin, hardener and empty containers safely.Puncture a corner of the container and drain residue intothe appropriate new container of resin or hardener.

DO NOT dispose of resin or hardener in a liquid state.Waste resin and hardener can be mixed and cured – insmall quantities – to a non-hazardous inert solid.Dispose of the solid mass only when cure is completeand the mass has cooled. Follow federal, state or localdisposal regulations.

Health & Safety

G/flex® resin and hardener have moderate sensitisingpotential, and should be kept out of the eyes and offthe skin.

• Use with good ventilation and adequate safety equipment including impervious gloves and safety glasses.

• If skin contact occurs, remove contaminatedclothing immediately, and wash the affected areathoroughly with ATL’s 845 hand cleaner and water,avoiding the use of solvents except in the case ofmassive contamination.

• If eye contact occurs, immediately flush with runningwater for at least 15 (fifteen) minutes and seek medicaladvice.

• If swallowed:Resins - DO NOT induce vomiting, and contact adoctor or the Poisons Information Centre.Hardeners - DO NOT induce vomiting, give plenty ofmilk or water and contact a doctor or the PoisonsInformation Centre.