A Knight Errant’s Neverending Quest for Twisties!

Arkansas, Missouri, and Oklahoma

Chasing Dragons…

It’s a long ride from my home in Oklahoma to Deals Gap, the twisty, 11-mile section of Highway 129 bordering

Tennessee and North Carolina also known as the “Tail of the Dragon.” But rumor has it that eastern Oklahoma, Arkansas,

and Missouri are infested with elusive serpents just waiting to do battle with any daring “Don Quixote”

willing to chase them down.

Laundry drying in the sun and spring blossoms; icons of a slower pace in the Ozarks.

Each relic of a bygone era has a story to tell. Take them in while they’re still here.

Gray clouds drape the Sooner State in a wet, woolen blanket as we bridge the 130-mile gap between

Oklahoma City and Tulsa where our hunt begins. A nasty weather breeder threatens not only wicked spring thunderstorms, but Oklahoma’s favorite pastime—torna-does! The narrow asphalt ribbon strikes a crooked line through the forest like a dis-carded silk scarf. I prod my R 1200 GS Ad-venture through the chicane and smile as the front wheel goes weightless at the exit. Who can resist the thrill of laying a spir-ited machine into a well engineered turn? James’ GSA flicks across my mirrors, tilting against the gnashing teeth of our first in-fant dragon. Our exit from Scenic Highway 412, east of Tulsa, onto Highway 20/82 nets immediate gratification as we begin our run up this serpentine, 14-mile stretch along the shore of Lake Hudson toward Spavi-naw. The last miles into Spavinaw reward us with a road like an undulating racetrack, but good judgment enforces due caution as we keep our speed in check. We leave Highway 82 at Spavinaw and continue east on 20 to the Arkansas border. Our quest is to conquer as many dragonesque two-lan-ers as possible over the next four days. The route will be a loop through northeastern Oklahoma, southern Missouri, and north central Arkansas. Our mission is not only the slaying of scaly green beasts, but also sampling the local fare and checking out the best in knightly accommodations.

“Show Me” Missouri Turning north at the Arkansas border, we continue up AR 43 to Southwest City, MO, where we pick up SH 90 east. A few pre-teen pterodactyls try to intimidate us on 90, allowing us to sharpen the edges of our

tires before tackling the ornery adult beasts lurking in the darker regions of the Ozarks. At Washburn, we bear northwest on SH 37 toward Cassville. We then swing south on 112 toward Roaring River State Park and the Emory Melton Inn and Conference Center. Roaring River, a trout fishing Mec-ca, is also a motorcycle-friendly resort. Our only regret is that we don’t have more time to relax on the plush leather furniture—or maybe wet a hook. The gracious hotel staff bends over backwards to ensure that we are comfortable and well fed before send-ing us on our way.

Dragon chasing is tough duty, every mile a battle. The GSs balk at our decision to take the easy route, but we calm them by promising to wander off the beaten path later. Highway 76 sends us meandering across southern Missouri, over Table Rock Lake, through Cape Fair, and past fields of tender, green grass. Bright magenta redbud blossoms, stunning yellow forsythia, and pure white plum trees are out in force. The occasional dogwood hints of another brief and wonderful alabaster display, but we are too early for the full mountain splendor due in another week or two.

We stay north of Branson, MO, opting for a bit of solitude instead of tackling the hordes of folks flocking to this retirement village for famous entertainers and their loyal fans. Nearby Silver Dollar City preserves the old ways of life, from basket weaving to steam- and even human-powered wood working. Period costumes and the smells of hand-pulled toffee and home cooking make it hard to deny the wisdom of Grandma and Grandpa when they talk about “the good old days.”

Text: Bill DragooPhotography: James Pratt

TOURS

WWW.ROADRUNNER.TRAVEL 76

If These Walls Could TalkJunk stores and “collectibles” are taking over where antique stores were once the norm, but the occasional treasure can still be found in these old buildings. We stop at a store in Taneyville as much to admire the structure and learn something of its history as to peruse the rusty relics inside.

The Best Roads are the Least RoadsWe turn on FF at Taneyville, keeping our promise to take the lesser paths, and con-tinue eastbound on DD before rejoining Highway 76 at Bradleyville. An inkling of blue skies makes this a pleasant detour, highlighting verdant fields and farms along

JULY/AUGUST ‘13 77

the way. After a quick lunch, I am reminded of my rural roots when the waitress at the Hucklebuck Smoke & Grill in Ava bids us goodbye. “You’uns be safe out there.” Sorta takes me back. We feel the time crunch as we leave Ava on 14 east, knowing it will be close if we are to make the night’s des-tination before dark. At West Plains, we turn west on 160 for a few miles, then head south on E when we get to Southfork be-fore picking up 223 at Moody. This takes us across the border into Arkansas.

William Tell Had to Sleep Some-whereDeer force us to curb our urgency as they stand poised to play kamikaze on the darkening highways within the for-est. We roll into Longbow Resort at dusk. Ben Pearson, son of the famous archer and bowyer, greets us and leads us down to our cabin. The resort is unique in that its cabins are melded into the surrounding bluffs, encompassing stone, lichen, and even indoor waterfalls.

We dally the next morning, photographing the extraordinary structures and landscape, and delaying the inevitable meeting with a massive cold front. A mid-morning depar-ture would soon put us on the most twisty part of our route yet.

We can’t resist playing slip and slide through the lush grass on the old airstrip as we leave Longbow and then turn north on 263. This road just gets better as we jink and jive over Highways 66, 65, and 377, but we are shut down on Highway 16 just past Witts Springs.

A Cold AffrontIn a few more miles, we engage the first barrage from the dreaded blue norther. It’s a little after 4 p.m. when we hit the rain, and in no time, it comes down in buckets. We pull off at a sign that reads “Misty Mountain Manufacturing” and take shelter under the cabinet shop’s overhang. I take my requisite nap, relishing the whole “rain on a tin roof” thing. Fog rolls in on this Ozark mountain-

top as we discuss going on, but the thought of continuing into increasing darkness, a wall of rain, and pea-soup fog doesn’t ap-peal to our growing sense of mortality. Our Klim Latitude riding gear has kept us dry, but picking our way down the best route in these conditions seems like a terrible waste.

A Wood Stove, a Warm Meal, and a Cabin in the WoodsJust when we are about to press on regard-less, the shop owner, Dwayne Hinson, shows up with his young son Tristan and nephew Scott, both of whom we learn are indentured to the business when they are not in school. Dwayne offers shelter for our bikes, and after a brief discussion (where I’m sure he was contemplating our shady appearance), Dwayne offers his cabin for the night, complete with dinner, bed, and breakfast. It’s a deal we can’t refuse. James promptly slings mud all over my bike as he spins his way toward the overhead door, and I smartly dump my rig in a slimy rut the moment his tail light disappears from sight.

TOURS

WWW.ROADRUNNER.TRAVEL 78

I bust a gut retrieving my GS in the down-pour, and we stash our bikes in Dwayne’s perfectly organized shop, feeling bad that mud is now dripping on his pristine floor. He dismisses our concerns and helps load our gear into his Dodge Dually for the short trip to the log cabin.

If the shop is well organized, the cabin is almost museum-like, especially consider-ing three men live here. Dwayne runs a tight ship. Dwayne lights the wood stove, and Tristan treats us to the FoggyMountainBreakdownon his banjo while we enjoy the aroma of a home cooked chicken dinner in the making. We discuss hour-long school bus rides, hunting, and furniture building until bedtime. Our evening turns out to be a welcome replacement for cheating death and dodging stray deer in the dark. A few miles south of our oasis, tornadoes and golf-ball-sized hail are wreaking havoc, leaving no doubt as to the wisdom of our decision to stay put. The next morning, we gobble down fresh biscuits and sausage gravy be-fore saying goodbye to our new friends. In Arkansas, being stranded in a storm is the next best thing to home!

Dragons in the SunshineIt is a clear, 34-degree morning as we roll through Ben Hur, take a right on 7 at Sand Gap and polish our sidewalls after Lurton where the real Little Dragon, Highway 123, takes us into Mt. Judea. Pronounced “Mount Judy,” the town is a wide spot in the road and a flashback from the ‘60s with its little ma-and-pa store and functional, vin-tage ‘70s pumps.

Midday, we make a side trip five miles south of Jasper on Highway 7 to The Cliff House Inn. Owners Mike and Becky McLaurin offer

There is no “wrong motorcycle” for exploring this region’s back-roads, but the flexibility of the mighty GS expands one’s options.

Sometimes it’s nice to just slow down, lay back, and enjoy the sway until the need for rest, food, or fuel cries “enough!”

“Uncle Bill” falls for a familiar game and shares a few Nutter Butters.

JULY/AUGUST ‘13 79

RoadFOOD: Legs InnLODGING: Emory Melton Inn & Conference Center

The Emory Melton Inn and Confer-ence Center at Missouri’s Roaring Riv-er State Park is a fabulous destination for business meetings. It offers a lounge furnished with plush leather furniture, and each room has a beautiful view of the Ozarks. The staff is country cour-teous, anticipating most of our needs before we could ask. A comfortable dining room complements the ameni-ties. Find it at Highway 112, Cassville, MO, (417) 847-2330, www.roaringriv-erstatepark.com.

RoadFOOD: Legs InnLODGING: Longbow Resort

The original “Longbow” cabin was a getaway for founder Ben Sr. and his wife. It is a rustic structure overlooking a mesmerizing waterfall. Both Ben Jr. and Ben III have continued the tradition of expanding and improving the resort, which now offers four cabins, all named after bow designs created by Ben Sr. For a quaint, romantic getaway, Longbow hits the bull’s-eye. Find it at 4349 Prim Rd, Prim, AR, (870) 948-2362, www.longbowresorts.com.

RoadFOOD: Legs InnLODGING: Hampton Inn Van Buren

Sometimes your day needs to end as planned. The Hampton Inn in Van Bu-ren, AR, is a guaranteed good night’s sleep. It was refreshing to settle into the clean, comfortable rooms on our last night and leave refreshed the next day. This Hampton Inn features 64 guest rooms, an indoor pool, business and fitness centers, free internet in each room, and a complimentary hot break-fast. Find it at 1916 North 6th Street, Van Buren, AR, (479) 471-7447, www.hamptoninn.com.

a beautiful place to relax overlooking the Grand Canyon of Arkansas with good food, quaint rooms, and cabins. The Cliff House is a must-stop venue for travelers within 50 miles of Jasper.

Highway 74 takes us through the historic district at Boxley. If you like to photograph old buildings and barns, you’ve come to the right place. Kingston is another sleepy town graced by tourists, many on two wheels. We stop here at the Waldron’s Val-ley Café B&B for a slice of peach cobbler, savoring the last few hours before hitting the super slab back to Van Buren.

But we still must tackle the Pig Trail, the lower section of 23 through Cass and across Mulberry Mountain. The Pig Trail is a brief but twisty favorite for everything from baggers to sportbikes. The mighty GSs are right at home as we drop down to first gear, dipping them through the turns as would the brave knights we want to be.

Back to the BarnAll too soon we hit I-40 and make quick work of our last 40 miles of the day. This time we go for the sure thing and hole up in the Hampton Inn, where a clean bed and a good “knight’s” sleep are given every time.

Our last day begins with a ride up Highway 59 to 100 where we turn west toward Stil-well, OK. The tarmac starts to straighten as we get closer to Tulsa, but with the natural urgency of heading back to the barn, we welcome the faster pace.

It turns out that eastern Oklahoma, Mis-souri, and Arkansas have as many drag-ons and as much misadventure as we had hoped for, and all within only a few hours of our homes near Oklahoma City. Who knew? RR

GPS files are available for download in each digital issue purchased or included in your sub-scription. Log in at www.roadrunner.travel.

This “bicycle chain” is a prime example of turning junk into jewelry.

WWW.ROADRUNNER.TRAVEL 80

Facts & Information

In GeneralOklahoma was originally laid out on a grid. There are a few exceptions, and the eastern part of the state is a good example. In Missouri, the lesser roads through Na-tional Forests (KK, DD, and Y) are heaven for those who love to lean. Time runs a generation or two behind in the Ozarks. Old buildings remain in use long after a modern urban environment may have lev-eled them. The people there will offer you their best. Creeks run clear, and the mighty Mulberry River near Cass, AR, is one of a few remaining undammed rivers. Ca-noeing, fishing, and other outdoor sports abound. Whether a traveler is looking to hunt antiques or asphalt dragons, a few days in this area will satisfy the need.

How to Get ThereTulsa is perched in the northeast corner of Oklahoma, easily accessible via turn-pikes radiating outward like wagon-wheel spokes. From Tulsa, head east, then north. You won’t have to look very hard for drag-ons. They will find you.

Food & LodgingGreat burgers and fried food are easy to come by, along with the occasional barbe-cue. Healthier options are rare, except in larger cities. The Ozarks are a good place to put the diet on pause and enjoy a great hamburger, onion rings, and homemade pie. Prices are easy on the wallet, except in the busier areas like Branson, MO, and Eureka Springs, AR. The Cliff House Res-taurant near Jasper is worth a side trip.

There are numerous B&Bs along the route and some rustic accommodations off the beaten path. Research your options before-hand; it can be a long, slow ride at night hunting for a motel.

Roads & BikingTwisty. The Ozark Mountains were laced with trails long before asphalt was thought a good idea. Many of these thoroughfares were built along the same routes.

Contact Information• Oklahoma Tourism Department

www.travelok.com• Missouri Division of Tourism

www.visitmo.com

• Arkansas Tourism www.arkansas.com

• Cliff House Restaurant Jasper, AR, (870) 446-2292 www.cliffhouseinnar.com

Books & Maps• ALivingHistoryoftheOzarks by

Phyllis Rossiter, Pelican Publishing, ISBN 978-0882898018, $19.95

• Oklahoma map www.sundaymorningrides.com/road/4199683

• Missouri map www.motorcycleroads.us/states/mo.html

• Arkansas maps www.motorcycleroads.com/75/28/Arkansas/The-Arkansas-Dragon---Hwy-123.html

• www.motorcycleroads.us/states/ar.html

Motorcycle & Gear2011 BMW R 1200 GS AdventureJacket and Pants: Klim Latitude Helmet: Shoei Hornet DS Boots: Sidi Adventure

Arkansas, Missouri, and Oklahoma

Total MileageApproximately 950 miles

Patterson Dr

FF

DD

E0850 Rd

100

Co�ee Hollow Rd

Clyde Maner Rd

Lake Hudson

TableRockLake

NorforkLake

Roaring RiverState Park

Tulsa

Muskogee

Broken Arrow

Coweta

Wagoner

Stilwel

Sloam SpringsCatoosa

ClaremorePryor

Grove

SallisawFort Smith

Van Buren

Fayetteville

Ozark

Okmulgee

RogersBentonville Eureka

SpringsBerryville

Harrison

Huntsville

Paris

Clarksville

Russellville

Mountain View

Yellville

Mountain Home

West Plains

Branson

Cassville

MonettAva

Ozark

Vinita

Miami Neosho

Tahlequah

Taneyville

Bradleyville

Spavinaw

SouthwestCity

WashburnSilverDollar City

CapeFair

South Fork

Moody

Witts SpringsSand Gap

Mt JudeaJasper

Kingston

20

E

235

Cr-23664 285

20

CC

235

Cr-23664 285 20

95

235

Cr-23664 285 20

5

235

Cr-23664 285 20

14

235

Cr-23664 285 20

235

Cr-23664 285 20

39

235

Cr-236

62

285

40

76

100

Cr-236

65

285

40

37

123

Cr-236

62

285

40

59

377

Cr-236

63

285

540

90

263

Cr-236

60

285

49

20223

Cr-236

65

412

44

43

181

Cr-236

59

160

44

Cr-236

69

412

44

82

112

Cr-236

71

412

28

82

82

37

7639

13

160

7676

7614

181

95

160

63160

412

62

5

5

56

59

66

9

6674

65

27

16

12316721

74 21 74123

23

23412

540

59

59

59

59

5951

6282

5151

80

16

12575

169

75

40

69

14

9

142

7

7

7

O K L A H O M A

M I S S O U R I

A R K A N S A S

Route Direction

US RoadsRoundtrip

State Roads Interstate

Scenic BorderApprox. 10 mi

Always consult more-detailed maps for touring purposes.

JULY/AUGUST ‘13 81