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Page 1: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

tva\vv\\vvV\\\\V6»J»»»»!«»»N«MMWSSi»N

E4^€^4Ti^#l?%

01 BO OS&sm

Page 2: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

Class

Book__

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT

Page 3: A practical hand-book of electro-plating
Page 4: A practical hand-book of electro-plating
Page 5: A practical hand-book of electro-plating
Page 6: A practical hand-book of electro-plating
Page 7: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

A PRACTICAL HAND-BOOK

ELECTRO -PLATING

By Eduuafd Tfeveft. \

Author of " Everybody's Hand-book of Electricity."

" Experimental Electricity." " Electricity and its

Recent Applications." Etc., Etc.

jr, .,

ILLUSTRATED.

^OPVRIGHr^AUG 23 1891

*

1891.BUBIER PUBLISHING COMPANY

LYNN, - MASS.

Page 8: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

p.1

w

COPYRIGHTED BYBUBIER PUBLISHING COMPANY,

LYNN, MASS.

18 91.

PRESS OF

G. H. & W. A. NICHOLS,LYNN, - MASS.

Page 9: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

PREFACE

^Uhis little volume is destined for the use

1 of beginners and amateurs in the art

of electro-plating and the author has

tried to make as complete a treatise

of the subject as possible in so small

a compass, hoping that the reader

may find enough to interest andhelp him to obtain a practical knowl-

edge of the subject. There has been

many calls for such a work, and I

trust that this book will help fill the

want. Should the reader want a morecomplete treatise he will find a numberof such works in any first-class bookstore. Among them is one that I will

especially recommend, "The Electro-

Platers' Hand Book," by C. E. Bonney, to

which I am indebted for many hints andsuggestions.

EDWARD TREVERT.Lynn, Mass., Aug. 15, 1891.

Page 10: A practical hand-book of electro-plating
Page 11: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

Electro -Plating,

7~he operations carried on in the

plating bath are substantially

those of the voltaic battery reversed.

In the latter case the current origi-

nates in the cell, and its production is

accompanied by the formation of a

salt of one of the elements, and in

the former case a current from an

external source breaks up the salt in

solution and deposits the metal in

one of the elements. The other

element need not necessarily be af-

fected, and is not if it is composed

of some substance not acted upon

by the acid left upon the breaking

of the salt.

It is customary, however, to make

Page 12: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

8

it of the same material as that which

you are depositing. Otherwise the

solution would gradually weaken as

the operation goes on, but if an

anode of the same metal is used it is

dissolved as rapidly as the metal is

freed at the other pole, and so keeps

the solution up to its intitial strength.

Before going further we will de-

fine a few of the terms we shall use.

The two poles or conducting sur-

faces immersed in the liquid of a

plating bath are called the anode

and the kathode. The anode is the

pole at which the current enters the

bath and the kathode that at which

it leaves. The liquid is called the

electrolyte, and the operation in-

cluded under the general head of

electrolysis.

In plating upon metals, care must

be used in selecting an electrolyte

Page 13: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

9

which will not act upon the kathode.

Iron, for instance, when immersed

in a solution of copper sulphate dis-

places some of the copper in the salt

and forms a salt by itself, with the

acid, which covers its surface and

prevents the plate from sticking.

We therefore use an alkaline solu-

tion in this case.

The coppering bath will first be

described, as it is perhaps oftenest

used and is a preliminary to plating

with some other metals. The electro-

lyte for objects not attacked by cop-

per sulphate is a saturated solution

of that salt in water. To be sure of

its being saturated, leave a few un-

dissolved crystals of the sulphate in

the bottom of the jar. Add a little

sulphuric acid to make the liquid a

better conductor. The object to be

plated must be thoroughly cleaned

Page 14: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

10

before it is placed in the bath and

when clean must not be touched by

the fingers or any dusty or greasy

object. A very small trace of for-

eign matter is sufficient to prevent the

plate from sticking. Cleaning baths

suitable for the different metals are

given below

:

"Water Nitric Sulphuric Hydro-chloric

Copper andBrass 100 50 100 2

Iron 100 2 8 2

Iron (cast; 100 3 12 3

Zinc 100 10

Silver 100 10

Dip and rinse off in clean water

several times, until the surface is

bright and clean, and then place the

object in the bath and start the cur-

rent as soon after as possible. The

plating cell must be sufficiently large

to give the object plenty of room, so

Page 15: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

1

1

that it will not touch the sides or

bottom of the plating vat.

It will not do to put the anode and

cathode too close together, as the

plate will be deposited unevenly,

that part of the cathode nearest the

anode receiving most. Too much

separation is also bad, as the resist-

ance of the cell is thereby increased

and of course this means a waste of

energy. Like many other things the

knowledge of how to arrange the

poles in the cell can be had only by

experience. By carefully watching

the deposit you will be able to dis-

cover the proper j^osition for each

object. The cell itself must be made

of some material not attacked by the

liquids used. Small cells are best

made of stone ware or glass, the

latter preferable, so that you may

watch the operation without remov-

Page 16: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

12

ing the objects from the bath. The

arrangement of the objects in the

bath will depend largely upon cir-

cumstances. Often it will be found

to be a good plan to take a sheet of

the metal used as the anode, if it is

not too expensive, and nearly line

the vessel with it. This will cause

the deposit to be more evenly dis-

tributed on the article.

When everything is connected up

turn on the current. Be sure that it

is in the right direction before pass-

ing it through the bath. A small

pocket compass answers very well

for this purpose. Place it under the

wire through which the current is

flowing, and imagine yourself swim-

ming in the wire, and facing the

compass. If the north pole is de-

flected to your left you are swim-

Page 17: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

l 3

ming with the current, if to your

right, against it.

Figure i.

Start up the current gradually

and by watching the character of the

deposit you can tell if you have the

proper amount of current. Whenall is going along properly, the cop-

per deposit will have a fine flesh

tint. Too much current is indicated

when the deposit becomes granular

and turns a brick red. When this

is the case, take the object out and

wash off all loose grains and put it

in the bath again with a reduced cur-

rent. When you have a sufficient

thickness of plate take it out and

Page 18: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

14

wash thoroughly. If this is not

clone the object where it is wet with

the solution will turn a dull brown

upon drying.

Non-conducting objects are gen-

'erally plated with copper first

whether they are to be plated with

another metal afterwards or not.

To make the surface conducting,

finely powdered black lead (the best)

or finely ground gas carbon is brushed

over the surface. This must be

thoroughly clone, and if the deposit

is slow about appearing at any spot,

it should be touched by the end of

an insulated wire attached to the

main conductor to start the deposit.

This of course will answer for ob-

jects strong enough to stand the

brushing treatment, but not for flow-

ers, insects and other delicate things.

They may be given a conducting

Page 19: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

film of silver by soaking in an alco-

holic solution of nitrate of silver.

This is made by shaking two parts

of the crystals of nitrate of silver in

100 of alcohol, with the aid of heat

in a stoppered bottle. When dry,

the object should be exposed to a

stream of sulphuretted hydrogen un-

der a hood. To prepare the sulphu-

retted hydrogen, bring a wrought

iron bar to a white heat, and touch

it with a piece of stick sulphur, the

iron will melt and drop like wax.

Put these drops in a bottle and pour

over them some dilute sulphuric

acid, and the gas will at once rise

and may be known by the resem-

blance of its odor to that of rotten

eggs. Lead it off through a tube to

the place where you wish to use it,

and when through, stop the opera-

tion by pouring off the liquid.

Page 20: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

As stated above, objects so pre-

pared should be given a preliminary-

coat of thin copper before you try

to plate them with anythiug else.

To copper iron and other metals,

attacked by the copper sulphate a

solution is made by dissolving \ oz*

of copper sulphate in \ pint of water,

and adding ammonia until the pre-

cipitate it causes is re-dissolved. Then

add cyanide of potassium until the

blue color disappears. A current

strong enough to give off gas at the

surface is required.

Plating with silver is effected in

the same way as above with a silver

anode and an electrolyte composed

as follows : Nitrate of silver, 3^ oz.

to the gallon of solution, is dissolved

in water. Dissolve cyanide of po-

tassium in water, and noting the

quantity used, add this to the silver

Page 21: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

i7

solution and a precipitate of cyanide

of silver will be formed. Keep add-

ing this until no more precipitate is

formed, but be careful by continual

stirring not to get an excess in.

Wash the precipitate upon filter

paper by pouring water over it, and

then dissolve it again in as much

more cyanide solution as you first

used, and add about 2 ozs. of the

potassium cyanide per gallon over

and above what you have already

put in. The silver anodes show the

condition of the fluid. They have a

clear, creamy look if the solution is

in good order, but will tarnish or

turn pink if there is not sufficient

free cvanide.

The proper strength of current is

indicated by the appearance of the

plated objects. A clear white sur-

face shows everything to be all right.

Page 22: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

i8

Too strong a current will make the

color yellow or gray. The adhesion

of the silver plate is rendered more

perfect by amalgamation of the ob-

jects in a solution of nitrate of mer-

cury, 1 oz. to the gallon of water.

Gutta-percha, wax and resin are dis-

solved in the cyanide solutions, and

cannot therefore be used to plate

upon, directly.

The gold plating solution is made

in the same way as the silver solu-

tion, with the exception that chloride

of gold is used in place of the ni-

trate of silver at the start. The

plating may be tinted by a little

manipulation. A green tint can be

produced by the addition of cyanide

of silver to the solution or by the

use of a silver anode, and a red tint

by the use of copper. This solution

should be worked at a temperature

Page 23: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

X 9

of 1500 Fahrenheit, and the articles

kept in constant motion. The anode

should be a clear dead yellow when

the solution is perfectly right.

The nickel plating solution is the

double sulphate of nickel and ammo-

nia. The solution must be worked

at as near the central point be-

tween an acid and an alkali as

possible. If it is either way it

should be slightly alkaline. To test

this, prepare some slips of blue

litmus papers by dipping them in a

litmus solution. If they are touched

by an acid they will turn red and

turn blue again in the presence of an

alkali. Have some of each kind on

hand to try your solution with. The

solution will gradually become acid

when it is worked and this tendency

must be counteracted by the addi-

tion of ammonia. The specific grav-

Page 24: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

20

ity should be kept at 1.03 and only

a small E. M. F. is used, so that but

little hydrogen gas is given off.

Hydrogen should never be given off

in copper or silver plating, but if a

deep color is desired on a gold plate,

a few bubbles may be allowed to

appear.

The current for plating may be ob-

tained from a number of sources.

The best if accessible is an arc cur-

rent, supposing that the work is

done simply as a pastime and not as

a regular business. In the latter

case, special and permanent arrange-

ments should be made for obtaining

the necessary current. The method

of using an arc current is to insert a

resistance in its path and lead off the

wires for your plating bath from each

side of this resistance. By varying

the resistance you can obtain any

Page 25: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

21

voltage you are likely to need for

small work. The reader need hardly

be told, however, that an arc current

is a dangerous thing to handle, and

that the bare wires should never be

handled except when they are en-

tirely disconnected from the current

bearing wires. Some form of plug,

such as is used in the electric light

stations, or a switch, which, while it

cuts out a loop, disconnects it at the

same time, should be used.

The resistance can be made up

cheaply, but effectively of a coiled

spring of some wire, large enough to

carry the current without overheat-

ing. German silver is the best mate-

rial, as it does not rust or corrode

like iron, and so furnishes a good

contact. The different spires of the

spring, while not in contact one with

another should be close enough to

Page 26: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

Figure 2.

Page 27: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

23

firmly grip the end of the lead, wire

to your bath. One of these lead

wires may be firmly soldered to the

end of the resistance coil, and the

other wire shifted along it to get the

desired resistance. See Fig. 2.

This arrangement will be found to

be well adapted for small work since

it wastes but a small amount of

energy. A constant potential light-

ing circuit can be used for plating,

but this is not at all desirable since

only a few volts are required and

from 90% to 95% of your energy

must be wasted in useless resistance

in series with the bath. If the con-

stant potential circuit is the only one

available, it would be better to use

storage batteries, charging them in

series from this circuit and plating

Page 28: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

24

from them in parallel. This would

be a very good plan where you have

sufficient work to do to justify the

expense of setting up the batteries.

Page 29: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

BATTERIES FOR ELECTRO-PLATING.

Primary batteries are only advisa-

ble in small work ; the Bunsen being

a very good battery for this purpose,

it requiring from one to six cells to

do the work, depending on the size

of your plating bath, the size and

number of articles to be plated at one

time.

The Bunsen cell consists of a glass

jar containing the amalgamated zinc

cylinder and dilute sulphuric acid.

In the inner porous cup, a carbon

plate dips into concentrated nitric

acid. There is no polarization for

the hydrogen liberated at the zinc

plate, in passing through the nitric

acid on its way to the carbon pole

decomposes the nitric acid, and is

itself oxidized. Its E. M. F. is about

Page 30: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

BUNSEN CELL.

Page 31: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

27

2 volts and its internal resistance is

very low. It will- furnish a steady

current for three or four hours.

Any Bichromate battery wTill

answer the purpose very wTell—the

Grenet Battery being a good one.

It consists of a ^glass jar or bot-

tle. A well amalgamated zinc plate

forms one pole and a pair of carbon

plates, one on each side of the zinc,

joined at the hard rubber top, forms

the other pole. The zinc plate is ,

fixed to a brass rod, by which it can

be drawn up out of the solution when

not in use. To charge this battery

proceed as follows

:

To three pints of cold water add

five fluid ounces of sulphuric acid.

When this becomes cold add six

ounces (or as much as the solution

will dissolve) of finely pulverized

bichromate of potash. Mix well.

Page 32: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

GRENET BATTERY.

Page 33: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

2 9

Pour this solution into the glass

cell until it nearly reaches the

top of the spherical part ; then draw

up the zinc and place the element

in the cell. The fluid should not

quite reach the zinc when it is drawn

up. Any desired number of these

cells may be connected together to

obtain the desired amount of current

or E. M. F.

The Taylor Battery will be found

a very good battery ; it is a new one

and possesses some admirable fea-

tures which deserve more than a

passing notice. It was gotten up to

meet the demand for a constant, clean

and cheap battery that would main-

tain a large current, and the result

seems to have been attained to a

large degree. There is no local

action when the cell is standing idle,

and the zinc is thoroughly amalga-

Page 34: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

||:p!i

ft:v!!,,i!l IHlJI !| i

in

•'iim ' mmM :

TAYLOR BATTERY.

Page 35: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

3 1

mated by a process of Mr. Taylor's

own invention. The battery is of

the zinc-carbon element, and is con-

structed on a scientific basis, with

the object of giving a large, powerful

and steady current at a minimum

cost. It 'is the result of twenty-

eight years of experience in telegraph

and electrical work. The best ma-

terial is used and special care taken

to insure low internal resistance.

One feature of this battery is that

the zinc element is wholly immersed

in the solution. The active zinc sur-

face in the No. 2 cell is twenty-seven

and one-half square inches. By the

total immersion of the zinc, about

thirty per cent, of the outlay of that

material is saved. The solution

around the zinc remains clear and

there are no creeping salts.

A No. 2 cell (6x8 inches in size)

Page 36: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

3 2

gives 1.80 volts in open circuit work,

and delivers a current of 22.5. am-

peres on short circuit. The internal

resistance of the cell is only .077

ohms. The porous cup holds one

pint of the depolarizing solution,

which is good for seventy ampere-

hours at a cost of six cents. The

cell can be set up with a saturated

solution of common salt around the

zinc.

Some idea may be had of the

power of this battery, when it is

stated that one No. 2 cell will run an

Edison phonograph twenty-three

hours. It replaces thirty gravity

cells. Two No. 2 cells and a good

series wound motor will run a light

sewing machine.

These cells are admirably adapted

to electro-plating. A No. 1 cell

(12x7 inches) has a capacity of 350

Page 37: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

33

ampere-hours, and a No. 2 cell (8x6

inches) of 70 ampere-hours.

Primary batteries are not advisa-

ble except for small work. The bi-

chromate plunge battery described

in the author's book on u Electric

Motors and All About Them,"

would make a good one for work of

this description. Six cells instead of

seven would probably be sufficient

and instead of connecting all in series

they could be connected two and

two in multiple, and the three groups

in series or three in multiple and the

two groups in series.

The storage cell is probably the

best. This cell (see engraving)

is made up of fifteen plates, eight

negatives and seven positives,

and is especially adapted to isolated

and central station lighting. The

electro-motive force of the cell is

Page 38: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

THE STORAGE CELL.

Page 39: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

35

about two volts. The internal resist-

ance is extremely low, say from .001

to .005 ohm, and the range of the

current large.

The capacity of the cell in perfect

condition is somewhat underesti-

mated at 300 ampere-hours ; 30 am-

peres, a safe working current, will last

for over ten hours, with not exceed-

ing 10 per cent, drop in electro-mo-

tive force, or a less current will be

supplied by the cell for a proportion-

ately greater number of hours. Agreater rate—up to 300 amperes

could also be obtained, but so great

a strain upon this size of cell would

injure the plates.

Page 40: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

36

DYNAMOS FOR ELECTRO-PLATING.

Dynamos to be used for electro-

plating differ from those in general

use for electric lighting in a number

of important particulars. The ma-

chines used for lighting purposes are

wound so as to generate a current of

high E. M. F., while a plating dyna-

mo is constructed to give a current

of large volume but of low E. M.

F. The reasons are that a light-

ing circuit has a high resistance,

while the resistance in a plating cir-

cuit is always low. A high E. M.

F. is not desired in a electro-plating

and this is overcome by using large

wire in winding the dynamo and

running it at a low speed. The

wires of the external circuit should

Page 41: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

37

be large too, so as to carry the cur-

rent safely.

Among the many good dynamos

which are well adapted for electro-

plating are the following

:

The Wood Dynamo. The en-

graving gives a very good idea of the

size and general appearance of the

new improved machine. It is of the

Gramme type. In the armature of

this machine we have a Gramme ring

armature. The core is usually lami-

nated, that is, it is made up of soft

iron discs, insulated from each other

by thin sheets of paper. These are

mounted on a shaft. The insulated

copper wire is wound in sections

around the external and internal

periphery of the ring. The begin-

ning and ending wire of each section

is left long and when the ring is

wound, the end of one section is

Page 42: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

WOOD DYNAMO.

Page 43: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

I

39

twisted up with and soldered to the

beginning of the next, and so on, all

around the ritisr. Then each twisted

end is soldered to a separate bar of

the commutator, of which there

must be as many as there are sec-

tions in the coil. Four field magnets'

cores are used, so as to form the

four corner yokes between two up-

right square castings, which form the

frame work of the machine. The

two upper cores are connected to one

pole-piece, and the two lower to

another. The field magnet coils are

so wound as to produce a north pole

in the piece above, and a south pole

in the piece below. The current is

continuous and is well adapted to

electro-plating.

The Eddy Dynamo Electric ma-

chines for electro-plating and elec-

tro-typing have always enjoyed an

Page 44: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

40

excellent regulation. They have

been modified and improved from

time to time; the latest ones rank

high for efficiency, simplicity and

workmanship. In this machine the

ring form of magnet (Mather Pa-

tents), and Siemen's armature is

used. The field is always charged

when the machine is running, so

deposition begins as soon as the con-

nection is made. Owinor to the

method of winding, it is impossi-

ble for them to reverse.

Plug switches are placed on the

bases of Nos. 1 and 2, and the prin-

ciple on which they work is to lessen

the resistance of the field, and so

keep it from cutting out when heav-

ily loaded. In using the switch, both

plugs should be in outside holes

when running on a small amount of

work, and as the work increases to

Page 45: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

4i

the point where the deposition is

slow, one plug should be put in the

slotted hole marked No. 1, and as

the surface in the tanks is aojain in-

creased, the other plug should be

put in the hole No. 2. The No. 3

machine is controlled by a switch as

above, or by a separate exciter in

special cases, and is under perfect

control whether it is doing a small or

large amount of work.

The shafts are of tool steel, and

are ground on dead centres, which

insures uniformity. The bearings

are of a very hard composition, and

are self-oiling, they contain flat rings

which run on the shaft and carry oil

from the reservoir below. The pet-

cock under the bearings should be

opened every morning and the old

oil allowed to run out, then closed

and refilled from the oil cups until it

Page 46: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

EDDY ELECTROPLATING DYNAMO.

Page 47: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

43

fills the recess in the yoke at the end

of the shaft. This should last all

day. The bearings must not be

allowed to run dry. Use a thin

pliable belt, the full width of the

pulley, and not have it drawn tightly.

The pulleys are large enough to do

the proper amount of work without

being tight against the belt. Astiff, heavy belt would have to be

drawn tightly, and would, in conse-

quence, wear out the bearing sleeves.

The commutator segments are

solid, and extend down to the shaft,

and with proper care will last a very

long time. The brushes should be

set sq that the point of contact on the

commutator of the top and bottom

brushes shall be diametrically oppo-

site. Adjust the brushes to insure

a light but sure contact. Do not set

them hard enough to cut the commu-

Page 48: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

44

tator. File the ends to a bevel that

will bear flat on the commutator and

keep them so. Do not have the

bevel at such an angle that only the

front edge of the brush, or perhaps

one corner, bears on the commutator.

Such a condition of the brushes is

liable to produce sparking. If they

are properly trimmed and set, the

machine will run without sparks. Donot let the brushes and commutator

get gummed up with oil. All the

working current passes through the

brushes and a good contact between

brushes and commutator is indispen-

sable. Keep the commutator clean.

Do not deluge it with oil. Shift the

brushes occasionally to a different

place on the commutator, so as to

wear all parts alike, and not cut

channels or grooves in it. In setting

the brushes, make allowance for the

Page 49: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

45

end chase of the shaft, and set them

far enough from the end of the com-

mutator so that there will be no pos-

sibility of contact between either

brush and the commutator head. For

lubricating the commutator, we

recommend haying a piece of felt

which has been soaked in lard-oil,

and then had plumbago worked into

it, which, if occasionally rubbed over

the surface will keep it in good con-

dition. A good oil for bearings is a

28 degrees mineral oil. Under no

circumstances use an animal or a

vegetable oil.

The armature is supported in the

magnet field by yokes supported by

rods connected to magnet, so render-

ing it impossible for it to get out of

line.

Page 50: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

46

CLEANING ARTICLES.

It is of the utmost importance that

absolute cleanliness be observed to

obtain success in all electro-plating

operations. This must be done by

both mechanical and chemical means,

so as to be sure that the article to be

plated is free from all dust, grease,

or any foreign matter. Tarnished

silver or discolored gold may be

cleaned by immersing the article in

a hot solution of cyanide of potas-

sium. A strong warm solution of

carbonate of ammonia will loosen

the tarnish on silver, so that it may

be removed with a brush. Corroded

copper, brass, German silver, etc.,

should be first immersed in a solu-

tion composed of sulphuric acid

Page 51: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

47

three pints, nitric acid If pints,

water 4 pints. This soon loosens

and dissolves the corrosion. Cor-

roded zinc should first be immersed

in a solution composed of sulphuric

acid, 1 oz., hydrochloric acid, 2 ozs.,

distilled or rain water, 1 gallon.

Rusty iron or steel should be first

pickled in solution of sulphuric acid,

6 ozs., hydrochloric acid, 1 oz., water,

1 gal. When the rust has been re-

moved, immerse the object in a solu-

tion composed of sulphuric acid, 1

pint, added to 1 gal., of distilled or

rain water, in which \ lb. of sul-

phate of zinc has been previously dis-

solved. Such metals as lead, tin and

pewter may be cleaned by immers-

ing them in a hot solution of caus-

tic soda or caustic potash. Whenany article is cleaned, be sure and

not let it come in contact with the

Page 52: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

48

hands or fingers, as the greasy secre-

tions of the body will stick to the

metal and cause the coat of deposited

metal to strip off in spots. Care

inust be taken in handling caustic

solutions, as they will burn the skin

and tissues of the body.

Page 53: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

49

FINISHING THE ARTICLES PLATED.

In silver plating, when the article

is removed from the plating solution

it should be held over the vat and

shaken gently a moment, so as to

remove the solution that may adhere

to it, after which it should imme-

diately be plunged into hot water

and rinsed thoroughly. It now must

be allowed to dry slowly. Whenthe article is perfectly dry it should

be brushed rapidly with a brush and

some fine silver polishing powder (a

tooth brush will answer the purpose

very well), until the opaque white

gives place to a silver lustre. It is

then ready for burnishing. This

may be done by simple friction with

a steel hand burnisher. While using

Page 54: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

So

the burnisher it should be often

dipped into a dish of soap and water,

thus enabling the burnisher to glide

smoothly over the deposited metal

on the article plated. If this were

not done, the motion of hard steel

would tend to separate the deposited

silver from the article plated. Care

should be taken in keeping the bur-

nisher bright and clean, for should it

become rusty it would scratch the

plated articles. Small articles, such

as studs, sleeve buttons, finger rings,

etc., may be polished in the following

manner : They are placed in a long

canvas bag with some dry sawdust

and well shaken by two persons, one

at each end. One end of the bag may

be attached to a post or wall, and the

other shaken up and down until the

articles are polished.

Page 55: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

5 1

PREPARING OLD WORK.

By old work we mean articles

where the plate is very much worn,

thereby exposing the real surface

largely.

In order to make a finish on such

work it is necessary to remove all

the old plate. In many cases it may

be removed with a scratch brush

and rotten-stone, but as a rule it

may be removed much quicker and

cleaner by acids.

Silver may be removed from cop-

per, brass or German silver in the

following manner: Add to 2 qts.

of strong sulphuric acid 1 oz. of ni-

trate of potash, stir in the potash and

immerse the article; should the

action become weak before the sil-

Page 56: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

5 2

ver is removed apply more heat and

saltpetre. Gold may be removed

from silver by heating the article to

redness and throw it into dilated

sulphuric acid ; this will cause the

gold to peel and fall off very easily.

Page 57: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

53

QUICKING ARTICLES.

This is done by the use of mercury

solutions- For copper, brass or Ger-

man silver prepare a solution as fol-

lows : To one pound of nitric acid

add three times its volume of pure

distilled or rain water, pour this upon

an ounce of mercury, a little at a

time, with stirring, until all the mer-

cury is dissolved ; dilute the whole

with one gallon of water.

Zinc articles should be coated in

a solution as follows : Dissolve an

ounce of nitrate of mercury in 2

gallons of water, mixed with 4 oz. of

sulphuric acid.

As a thick coating of mercury will

cause metal to strip after the plating

is done, it is of the utmost impor-

Page 58: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

54

tance that these solutions contain

only enough mercury to give the arti-

cle the thinnest coating possible ; arti-

cles upon being removed from the

quicking solution, should present a

uniformly white appearance. If they

are spotted the surface is either

greasy or the solution is badly made.

A good coating will stand burnish-

ing. A good test of a quicking

liquid is to immerse in it a clean

copper plate ; if the plate becomes

white soon with a thin, closely adher-

ent coating the liquid is right. If

the coating is black or bad in color

the liquid is not properly made or is

exhausted.

Page 59: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

55

ELECTRO-TYPING.

By electro-typing is meant that

process ,of electro-plating an article

with a metal coating, generally cop-

per, of sufficient thickness that it

may be removed and form an inde-

pendent object, which will be an

exact copy. It is in fact a complete

fac simile of the object in reverse.

To obtain a positive copy, a cast has

to be taken from the negative. This

negative is called the mould or

matrix. There are a number of

processes, among them the Adams

process, which is used to a great

extent, a description of which will

give the reader a general idea of the

art.

Page 60: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

56

#This process, which was patented

in 1870 is said to give a perfect con-

ducting surface to wax moulds with

greater certainty and rapidity than

any other, and will accomplish in a

few minutes that which plumbago

alone would require from two to

four hours. The process is con-

ducted as follows : While the mould

is still warm in the moulding case,

apply freely powdered tin (tin bronze

powder, or white bronze powder)

with a soft brush until the surface

presents a bright, metallic appear-

ance ; then brush off the superfluous

powder. The form of type or wood-

cut is then plumbago ed, and an im-

pression or mould taken in the wax

as before described, the mould being

built up and connected as before.

The tin powder is now to be brushed

*Electro-Deposition by A. L. Watt.

Page 61: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

57

over it either by hand or machine,

and the superfluous tin blown away

by the bellows, after which the build-

ing-iron is applied for stopping all

parts upon which the copper is not to

be deposited. The mould is then

to be immersed in alcohol, then

washed in water " to remove the air

from the surface," when it is ready

to be immersed in a solution pre-

pared as follows : Fill a depositing

tank nearly full of water, keeping

account of the number of gallons

poured in ; hang a bag of crystals

of sulphate of copper until the water

is saturated ; for every gallon of

water used, add from half a pint to

three gills of sulphuric acid, and mix

the whole thoroughly. In this solu-

tion hang a sheet of copper, con-

nected to the positive pole of the

battery, and when the solution be-

Page 62: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

58

comes cool and settled, immerse the

mould and connect it with the nega-

tive electrode, when the surface of the

mould will be quickly covered with

thin copper. Then remove for com-

pletion to another and larger deposit-

ing vat, containing a solution made

in the proportion of one pound of

sulphate of copper and one gill of

sulphuric acid to each gallon of

water. If crystals of sulphate of

copper form on the copper plate in

the first depositing vat, disconnect it

and dissolve them off, substituting

for it a clean plate.

Since, in the above process, the tin

powder becomes dissolved and enters

into the solution, when this liquid

becomes saturated with tin, after

being long in use, it must be cast

aside and replaced by fresh solution.

The tin powder may be employed

Page 63: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

59

as a substitute for plumbago, with-

out chano;in£ from one bath to

another, thus : After the mould has

received the desired impression, it is

taken to the plumbago table, and

held faee downward, with one end

resting on the table, while the other

is supported by the hand. It is then

struck on the back several times to

loosen the black lead that is pressed

on the wax while moulding, and all

the fine dust that may cling to the

mould must be blown away. After

building up and making all connec-

tions, it is to be placed in the hand-

case or plumbagoing machine, and

the tin powder applied in the same

way as plumbago. Both the machine

and hand-case should be kept free

from plumbago, the tin powder be-

ing only used to metallize the sur-

face of the mould. If the machine

Page 64: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

6o

be used, place the mould, or moulds,

on the carriage, cover well over with

tin powder, close the door, and run

once forward and backward under

the vibrating brush ; then turn the

moulds round, put on more tin pow-

der, and run through again. It takes

three minutes for the whole opera-

tion. The tin powder is to be

beaten out on the table used for this

powder as before, and then thor-

oughly well blown out. Instead of

using the building iron for stopping

off, any suitable varnish, or an alco-

holic solution of sealing-wax may be

used. To prevent the copper de-

posit from being broken over lines of

set up type, the lines may be whetted

with a dilute solution of nitrate of

mercury, or with a cyanide quicking

solution used in preparing work for

plating. A further deposit is then

Page 65: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

6i

given in the sulphate of copper bath.

In the depositing bath the solution

employed is a saturated solution of

sulphate of copper, acidulated with

sulphuric acid, and large copper

anodes are suspended in the bath,

between which the cases containing

the prepared moulds are suspended,

back to back, so that the faces of the

moulds may be directly opposite the

anodes. The time occupied in ob-

taining the electro deposit of copper

depends upon the power of the cur-

rent employed and the thickness of

metal desired. For ordinary book

or job work, the shell of copper

should be about the thickness of good

book paper, and this should be ob-

tained in from three to five hours.

Electros for newspaper titles, and

such blocks as are subjected to much

use, should receive a stouter deposit.

Page 66: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

62

When the mould has received the

requisite deposit, it is to be removed

from the bath, and is next to be

separated from the wax composition.

This is done by placing the mould in

an inclined position, and passing a

stream of hot water over the copper

surface, which, by softening the wax

enables the copper shell to be stipped

off, by raising it from one corner

while the hot water is passing over

the mould. The shell should be re-

moved with care and must not be

allowed to bend in the least degree.

The thin film of wax which adheres

to the face of the electro is removed

by placing it upon a wire rack, rest-

ing on a vessel containing a solution

of caustic potash, which is poured

Page 67: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

63

over the electro by means of a ladle,

the liquor returning to the vessel

beneath. The potash has the effect

of dissolving the wax in a short time,

after which the electro is well rinsed

in cold water.

Page 68: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

64

CARE IN HANDLING POISONS.

Many of the substances used in

electro-plating are of a highly poison-

ous nature, and for that reason the

author would caution the reader not

to dip his hands into cyanide baths,

or let the fingers or hands come in

contact with cyanide solutions, espec-

ially should there be a recent cut or

scratch on them, as painful affections

are liable to arise in the form of

sores from this cause. Cyanide so-

lutions being a caustic, act very

freely on the delicate tissues of the

skin, but more especially upon the

parts under the finger nails.

Never add an acid to any liquid con

Page 69: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

65

taining cyanide or ferro-cyanide in a

closed apartment. This should always

be done in the open air, taking care

not to inhale the gases that arise,

which are very poisonous.

Page 70: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

66

SOME TOOLS NEEDED FOR ELECTRO-

PLATING,

Burnisher. An instrument con-

sisting of a hard steel blade with a

wooden handle, used in producing a

polish by friction on articles after

they have been plated.

Galvanometer. An apparatus for

measuring the strength, or to ascer-

tain the direction of an electric cur-

rent by the deflection of a magnetic

needle.

Hydrometer. A glass instrument

resembling a thermometer, and is

used for testing the specific gravity

of liquids.

Potash Brush. This is made of

cotter* fibre with a wooden back and

handle. Any animal fibre would

Page 71: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

67

soon get soft, dissolve and wear

away. It is used to clean the arti-

cles to be plated from dust, grease,

etc.

Polishing Brush. Made of bris-

tles, with a wooden or bone back and

handle, to be used with dry silver

polishing powder in polishing articles,

after they have been plated.

Thermometer. To ascertain the

right temperature of the gilding

solution. It must be made wholly

of glass, as any metal would dissolve

in the hot solution.

Many other tools and articles to

be used in this art will suggest them-

selves to the reader as he progresses.

Page 72: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

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Any boy or girl can do good work without anyprevious experience. Complete directions witheach outfit. Do your own plating, do yourneighbors plating, make lots of money by doingeverybodys plating. You can plate with Silver,Gold, Copper or Nickel. This is a good proflta-able business for anybody to go into and makemoney. Buy one, go among your neighbors andsolicit from them spoons, knives, forks or any-thing of that description to plate. You will besurprised to find that most everybody will havesomething that they want replated. There is

money in it. We also give a book Free entitled"How to become a successful Electro-plater."

THE OUTFIT CONSISTS OFOne Battery Complete.

One Plating Vat with rods and connectingwires.

One Burnisher.

One Chamois.

One Box Silver Polish.

One Polishing Brush.

One pint Silver Solution ; in fact, everything

that is needed to do a successful job of Silver

Electro-Plating.

Remember Price $4 Complete.

to be sent by express and express charges to be

paid by the receiver. Send money by P. O.

order, or Express Money Order, at our risk.

BUBIER MFG. COMPANY,LYNN, - MASS.

Page 86: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

JUST PUBLISHED.

A Practical Treatise

ON THE

Incandescent Lamp.

By J. E. RANDALL.Electrician of the Incandescent Lamp Dept.

of the Thorns jn-Houston Co.

ILLUSTRATED,

This is the only work that explains in a practical

manner the manufacture of the Incandes-cent Lamp, and should be owned by every

Electrician and Student interested

in this subject.

Price 50 Cents, Cloth.

Postage Paid*

BUSIER PUBLISHING COMPANY,

LYNN, - MASS.

Page 87: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

New and Practical Book.

Dynamos and Electric

;^oto:r,s,AND ALL ABOUT THEM.

BY EDWARD TREVERT.

Nearly lOO Illustrations.

This volume not only gives practical direc-

tions for building Dynamos and Electricmotors, but also contains a large quantity ofinformation about them.

It is particularly adapted to beginners inthis absorbing science.

CHAP. I. What is a Dynamo ?—What is a Motor ?

CHAP. II. Some different types of dynamos.CHAP. III. How to construct a dynamo.CHAP. IV. Some different types of electric motors.

CHAP. V. How to build an electric motor.

CHAP. VI. A cheaply constructed electric motor.

CHAP. VII. How to make an electric battery forrunning electric motors.

Price, Cloth, 50 Cents.POSTAGE PAID.

BUBIER PUBLISHING COMPANY,

LYNN, - MASS.

Page 88: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

NOW READY.

A PRACTICAL BOOK,

HOW TO MAKE

Electric Batteries

AT HOME.By Edward Trevert.

FULLY ILLUSTRATED.

POSTPAID ON RECEIPT OF PRICE

25 CENTS.

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LYNN, - MASS.

Page 89: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

YOUWHNT IT!

SENT POSTPAID FOR

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Page 90: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

2®=AN IMPORTANT WORK.-©!!

A BOOR FOR EVERYBODY,NOW READY!

Experimental Efcctrlcllu,

By Edward Trevert.

Author of "Everybody's Hand-book of Electricity."and "How to make Electric Batteries at Home."

1 76 Pages. 1 OO Illustrations.

It will give practical information on the fol-

lowing subjects:

Chap. 1.—Some Easy Experiments in Electricityand Magnetism.

" 2.—How to Make Electric Batteries." 3.—How to Make a Galvanometer." 4.—How to Make an Induction Coil.11 5.—How to Make an Electric Bell." 6.—How to Make, a Magneto Machine." 7.—How to Make a Telegraph Instrument." 8.—How to Make an Electric Motor." 9.—How to Make a Dynamo." 10.—Electric Gas Lighting and Bell Fitting.

Some practical directions for Ama-teurs.

" 11.—Some information in regard to ElectricLamps.

" 12.—Glossary of Electrical Terms.

JUST THE BOOK FOR AMATEURS.Price, Cloth Bound, $1.00.

POSTAGE PAID.

BuDierPuDHshing Company,LYNN, MASS.

Page 91: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

PRICE

50 CENTS EACH.POSTAGE FREE.

Alternate Current Machinery. By GisbertKapp, Assoc. M. Inst. C. E.

Steam Boiler Explosions. By Zerah Colburn.A Treatise on, the Compound Engine. ByJohn Turnbull, Jr. 2d Edition. With Addi-tions by Prof. S. W. Robinson.

Safety Valves. By Richard H. Buel, C. E.A Practical Treatise on the Teeth of Wheels,with the 'I heory of the Use of Robinson'sOdontography By Prof. S. W. Robinson.

Terrestrial Magnetism and the Magnetism ofIron Ships. By Prof. Fairman Rogers.

A Hand, Book of the Electro-Magnetic Tele-graph. By A. E. Loring, a Practical Teleg-rapher. 2d Edition.

Turbine Wheels. By Prof. W. P. Trowbridge.The Telescope-. Its Construction, &c. ByThomas Nolan.

Induction Coils: How Made and How Used.3d Edition.

Incandescent Electric Lights. By Compte Th.Du Moncel and Wm. Henry Preece. 2d Edi-tion.

The Theory of the Gas Engine. By DugaldClerk.

Electro- Magnets. By Th. du Moncel.Dynamo Electric Machinery. By S. P. Thomp-

son.Dynamic Electricity. By John Hopkinson,

J. A. Schoolbred and R E. Day.Recent Progress in Dynamo-Electric Machines.Being a supplement to Dynamo-Electric Ma-chinery. By Prof. Silvanus P. Thompson.

Hand Book of Mineralogy; Determination andDescription of Minerals found in the UnitedStates. By Prof. J. C. Foye.

Bubier Publishing Co., Lynn.

Page 92: A practical hand-book of electro-plating

A NEW BOOK!By Edward Trevert.

AUTHOR OF-Everybody's Handbook of Electricity.How to make Electric Batteries at Home.

Experimental Electricity.Dynamos and Electric Motors.

ELECTRICITYAND ITS

Recent Applications.Containing- nearly 350 Pages and

about 250 Illustrations.

This work is printed on extra fine heavy paper,is bound in a neat cloth binding, and letteredin gold. It is particularly adapted to theuse of Students.

PRICE $2.00.POSTAGE FREE.

BUBIER PUBLISHING COMPANY,20 City Hall Sq., Lynn, Mass.

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