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06: in the steps of ulyssesiWalk
A self-guided walking tour
Dublin tourism Centre p5
north earl street p5
no. 5 parnell square p5
top of parnell square east p5
eccles street p5
st Georges’s Church p5
Belvedere College p7
north Great George’s street p7
James Joyce street p7
George’s Quay, opposite to the Custom house p7
the sean o’Casey Bridge p7
Corner of Westland Row and pearse street p7
under the Railway Bridge p9
inside st Andrew’s Church p9
sweny’s Chemist p9
leinster street south p9
Davy Byrne’s pub p9
Welcome to dublin
We hope that as you take time
to walk around and explore
our capital city you will soon
discover the Irish capital is at
the very heart of Irish culture
and offers endless choices to
our visitors.
Dublin’s real appeal is her
people, so don’t be afraid to
stop and ask for directions
along your walk – Dubliner’s
hospitality and wit will
captivate you!
www.visitdublin.com/iwalks
iWalkin the steps of ulysses
01 Dublin tourism Centre: the tour commences from outside the Dublin tourism Centre on suffolk street. leopold Bloom’s journey started from eccles street and on our way up there you will pass some places associated with Joyce and ‘ulysses’. if you want to go directly to eccles street you may take the number 10 bus from outside the Dublin tourism Centre which will leave you to the top of eccles street from where you can walk down to the Mater private hospital where the tour commences. Alternatively you may get on a number 16 or 16A bus from nearby College Green which will leave you close to the intersection of eccles street and Dorset street. Ask the bus driver where to let you off. if you take the bus to eccles street your tour will start from stop no.5.
02 north earl street: to get to your next stop turn right when you come out of the tourist office and head towards Grafton street. When you reach this famous shopping street turn left, passing the statue of Molly Malone, the legendary street trader and the subject of Dublin’s unofficial anthem. from here keep going in a forward direction passing in turn trinity College on your right, the Bank of ireland, which housed the former houses of parliament in the 18th century, on your left. After Westmoreland street cross over o’Connell Bridge and head up towards the spire, the 120m tall monument in the centre of the street. At the spire turn right into north earl street and there stop at the statue of the famous man himself, James Joyce.
03 no. 5 parnell square: Recommence walking up o’Connell street heading towards the parnell Monument which commemorates one of ireland’s great 19th century statesmen. Behind this monument and over to the left is the classical edifice of the Rotunda hospital, believed to be the world’s first purpose-built maternity hospital. Cross over parnell street and up Cavendish Row which continues into parnell square, passing, on your left, the famous Gate theatre which was founded in 1928 in the former Grand supper Room of the Rotunda hospital’s Assembly Rooms originally built in 1786. stop opposite number 5 parnell square.
04 top of parnell square east: Walk a short distance up to the top of the square and pause for a few moments to look across at the Garden of Remembrance and beyond it across to parnell square West. tucked in between the Abbey presbyterian Church and the Dublin City Gallery, the hugh lane, is the renowned Dublin Writer’s Museum
05 eccles street: Without further ado, you will make your way straight to the next stop and the real starting point of this tour. Walk straight up past the junction with Great Denmark street, continue along frederick street north and turn right into Dorset street lower. Cross the road when you safely can do so, continuing for 200 metres until you come to eccles street and turn left. Cross over to the Mater private hospital and stand in front of the plaque to the right of the main door. this plaque has the head of James Joyce sculptured onto it. this part of the journey should, on average, take about 10 to 15 minutes.
06 st Georges’s Church: Walking down eccles street to the corner with Dorset street you can mirror Bloom’s journey. Before you cross over Dorset street make a short side trip to follow Bloom as he travels to the butcher. he turned the corner at what is still a pub, but then called larry o’Rourke’s, and turned right to walk down Dorset street, passing over the pub’s grating (now a steel trapdoor) from which floated up the flabby gush of porter. on the right he passed st Joseph’s national school (now st Raphael’s house, the headquarters of the Garda Credit union), a dark red-bricked building with five bays of windows. now turn around and come back to the corner again. 5
iWalk-Inthestepso fUlysses
4
Dublin Tourism Centre
O’Connell Street
Parnell Monument
Parnell Square
St George’s Church
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iWalk-Inthestepso fUlysses
07 Belvedere College: Walk down temple street and then turn right into Great Denmark street. stop in front of a mansion-like building which stands opposite to north Great George’s street. this is Belvedere College.
08 north Great George’s street: Cross the road and walk down on the left side of north Great George’s street until you reach no no. 35 - the James Joyce Cultural Centre. here, in a superbly restored Georgian townhouse, you will find manuscripts and memorabilia of the Joyce family and of the works of James Joyce including the actual door of no.7 eccles street which was saved by a Joycean enthusiast before the demolition crews got to it.
09 James Joyce street: you are still on a parallel but different route to leopold Bloom but you will soon converge on his original path. proceed down to the bottom of north Great George’s street, turn left onto parnell street, cross Gardiner street at the next junction and cross again to walk down Gardiner street on the left-hand side. you have now regained Bloom’s itinerary. you can see what he saw and apart from some new apartment blocks the overall view is little changed since 1904. the railway bridge still crosses the street obscuring the aspect to the magnificent Custom house. take the second left into Railway street and right again into James Joyce street. stop at the junction with foley street.
10 George’s Quay, opposite to the Custom house: exit James Joyce street, turn right up talbot street and left again to regain Gardiner street. With the help of pedestrian lights cross over a series of junctions to gain the left-hand side of Beresford place and walk along by the boundary wall of the Custom house. Cross over the River liffey by way of Butt Bridge and turn left along by the river until you reach opposite the classical pile of the Custom house.
11 the sean o’Casey Bridge: instead of going the direct route his journey meanders quite a bit. proceed down George’s Quay, go over the next bridge, the Matt talbot Bridge, and onto the campshire along City Quay. A campshire is the walking area along by the riverfront. We presume Bloom walked along the opposite pavement but he certainly would have chosen the campshire had he the choice. When you come to the modern pedestrian bridge stop here for a while, even walk onto the bridge to take in the view.
12 Corner of Westland Row and pearse street: Bloom’s rambles next took him into lime street. nothing remains in this district from 1904 so we will take a short cut to catch up with Bloom again. Cross over from the bridge and stroll up lombard street on the right-hand side. you will meet with Bloom after the junction with townsend street. the frowning face of Bethel which was the salvation Army hostel, was at nos. 19/20. the face no longer frowns as it has been replaced by a more modern reincarnation. next pass nichols’ the undertakers at nos. 26-31: not only is the building still there but so is nichols’ itself, and probably not much changed since Bloom’s shadow fell on it. Bloom then went across Great Brunswick street – to you that is now called pearse street. stand at the corner with pearse street and Westland Row.
Custom House
Sean O’Casey Bridge
Pearse Street
iWalk-Inthestepso fUlysses
13 under the Railway Bridge: once he collected the letter from his lady friend by correspondence, Bloom pocketed it and decided to pick a quiet place to read its contents. After his bad luck in bumping into an acquaintance by the name of McCoy, he strolled back to Great Brunswick street, modern day pearse street, and turned right along the high station wall. you may follow him by crossing Westland Row and proceeding down pearse street. in Bloom’s day there was a vehicle ramp which led up to the station’s platforms but it was demolished to make way for Goldsmith hall, a lecture halls and residence facility for trinity College. there is no hackney or carriage rank here any more so you won’t experience “the sweet oaten reek of horsepiss” that Bloom noticed as he passed the parked horses. turn into Cumberland street and stand under the bridge where Bloom stopped to read his letter surreptitiously.
14 inside st Andrew’s Church: Bloom then went in through the backdoor of the church which he called All hallows but is officially known as st Andrew’s Roman Catholic Church. the backdoor is usually locked so you will have to open the gate which is usually unlocked during the daytime and go along the side passage until you reach the front of the church. if the church is closed then the gate will also be locked. in such a case walk around to Westland Row by the way you came here in the first place. enter the interior and savour what Joyce describes as “the cold smell of sacred stone”.
15 sweny’s Chemist: When you are ready to leave the prayerful atmosphere of st Andrews walk up Westland Row. pause opposite number 21, a house on the right-hand side with a plaque on the wall. this was the birthplace in 1854 of another of Dublin’s famous writers and wits, oscar Wilde. When you reach the top of the street observe a chemist’s shop or pharmacy which stands directly facing you. this is sweny’s Chemist
16 leinster street south: proceed along lincoln place towards leinster street south in the manner of Bloom who went cheerfully towards the mosque of the baths redbaked bricks, the minarets. this description accurately fits the turkish Bath Company of 6-15 lincoln place, but this building was not in use by 1904, so probably his destination was the turkish and Warm Baths of 10 to 11 leinster street south now just a dark-bricked and soulless-looking office block. he notes, as you can, the gates of College park which is a side entrance into trinity College. stop opposite to where the railings of trinity College begin.
17 Davy Byrne’s pub: this is where we will leave Joyce and Bloom for now. Bloom, after his turkish bath, takes a tram to sandymount, accompanies Dignam’s funeral to Glasnevin Cemetery and on his return to town visits his place of employment, the freeman’s Journal. he decides he needs to get a copy of an advertisement from the Kilkenny people and makes his way to consult it in the national library. he journeys past trinity College, up Grafton street and into Duke street and pops into Davy Byrne’s pub for lunch. this is where you are now headed for. After his lunch Bloom visits the national library, wanders up towards temple Bar and makes for the ormond hotel on ormond Quay. All of this and more will have to wait for another day. for now walk along leinster street south and continue where it becomes nassau street and turn left into Dawson street, taking the first turn to the right which is Duke street. A little more than halfway down on the left is Davy Byrnes.
you have now reached the end of this guided tour. you may like to know that there are other walks in this series, each highlighting a unique quarter in the city or suburbs that you may download from the Dublin tourism website www.visitdublin.com. thank you for visiting our city.
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Sweny’s Chemist
Leinster Street South
Davy Byrne’s
NASSAU STREET
LEINSTER ST
CLARE ST
LINCOLN PL
NORTHYORK STREET
SOUTH ANNE ST
NORTH
NORTH
SOUTH
SOUTH
MOUNT STREET UPPERJAMES’ PLACES
PEMBROKE ROW
MOUNT STREET LOWER
SOUTH
HATCH STREET UPPER
ADELAIDE ROADMESPIL ROAD
WILTON TERRACE
WIL
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BRIDE RD.
ROSS RD.
GOLDEN LANE
BISHOP STREET
PETER ST
KEVIN ST. LOWER
CAMDEN ROW
HARRINGTON STREETSOUTH CIRCULAR ROAD
GROVE ROAD
SOUTH CIRCULAR ROAD
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CORN MARKET
HIGH STREETRACK LANE
THE COOMBE
RAINSFORD STREET
BELLEVIEW SCHOOL STREET EARL ST. SOUTH
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CORK STREETJAMES’ WALK
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ABBEY STREET UPPER
BRUNSWICK STREET NORTH
STRAND STREET GREAT
LOTTS ROW
ABBEY STREET LOWER
ABBEY ST OLD
SACKVILLE PL.
EARL ST.
POOLBEG STREET
HENRY STREET
PRINCES STREET
PARNELL STREET
LOFT
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BOLT
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STR
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PARNELL SQ. N
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MARY STREET
KING STREET NORTHTALBOT STREET
TALBOT STREET
STORE ST.
CATHEDRAL ST
SEAN McDERMOTT STREET
TOWNSEND STREET
CITY QUAY
CO
MM
ON
S ST
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T
SHERIFF STREET
KILLARNEY STREET
ASTON QUAYBACHELORS WALK
EDEN QUAY
ORMOND QUAY LOWER
INNS QUAY
ARRAN QUAY
PHOENIX ST.HAMMOND
ELLIS QUAY
USHERS QUAY
USHERS ISLAND
VICTORIA QUAY
FIELD QUAYWOLF TONE QUAY
BENBURB STREET
ARBOUR HILL
MANOR PLACE
HALLIDAY R
OAD
FOUNTAIN ROAD GR
AN
GE G
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MA
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CONYNGHAM ROAD
INFIRM
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OROUGH ST.
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ANTOW
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MAIN ROAD
MONTPELIER
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NS
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ST. JOHN’S ROAD WEST
HEUSTON STATION
MERCHANTS QUAY
WELLINGTON QUAY
ESSEX STREET
BURGH QUAY GEORGES QUAY
CUSTOM HOUSE QUAY CUSTOM HOUSE QUAY
PEARSE STREET
PEARSE STREET
SAN
DW
ITH STR
EET
COLLEGE STREET
COLLEGE GREEN
RIVER LIFFEY
KEVIN ST. UPPER
BERESFORD PLACE
ST. A
NDR
EW ST.
GRA
ND CANAL PLAC
E
ST A
ND
RE W
S LA
01
02
03
04
05
06
07
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1617
15
No.35 North Great Georges Strett
No.5 Parnell Square East
James Joyce Street
George’s Quay
Sean O’Casey Bridge
Corner of Westland Row and Pearse Street
Leinster Street South
Sweny’s Chemist
Dublin Tourism Centre
St. Andrews Church
Under the Railway Bridge
North Earl Street
Davy Byrnes Pub
Belvedere College
Top of Parnell Square East
St. Georges Church
Eccles Street
iWalk-routemap
iWalkin the steps of ulysses
10 11
© The copyright for this text is owned by Pat Liddy and such copyright has been asserted by him. He has made this text available to be exclusively used by Dublin Tourism.
We hope that you enjoyed this walk which was narrated by its author, Pat Liddy, who may be visited on his website www.walkingtours.ie and brought to you by Dublin Tourism on www.visitdublin.com
For the latest updates on walking tours of Dublin, check out our website: www.visitdublin.com/iwalks. Our offices are located at:Suffolk Street, Dublin 214 Upper O’Connell Street, Dublin 1Arrivals Hall, Dublin Airport, County DublinDun Laoghaire Harbour, County DublinBaggot Street, Bridge Dublin 2.
Thank you for visiting our city.
