A Value Chain in Natural Dye

FINAL REPORT

National Agricultural Innovation Project

(Indian Council of Agricultural Research)

Title of Sub-project: A Value Chain in Natural Dyes

Dr. A. Padma Raju

Vice Chancellor

Acharya N G Ranga Agricultural University

Hyderabad – 500 030

2013

A V

alu

e C

hain

in

Natu

ral

Dyes

Component

-2

2013

FINAL REPORT

National Agricultural Innovation Project

(Indian Council of Agricultural Research)

Title of Sub-project: A Value Chain in

Natural Dyes

Dr. A. Padma Raju

Vice Chancellor



2013

Printed on : 31st March 2014

Component : 2

Citation : A Value Chain in Natural Dyes

Copyright : Indian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR)

Disclaimer :

Published by : Name, Designation, Address, Phone, Fax, E-mail, Website

Edited by :

Compiled by : Dr. A. Sharada Devi, CPI

Hindi translation :

Other Credits :

Cover page

photographs

:

______________________________________________________________________________

Printed at

CONTENTS

Page no.

Foreword

Preface

Executive Summary/ Key words 1

Part-I: General Information of Sub-project 8

Part-II: Technical Details

1. Introduction 10

2. Overall Sub-project Objectives 10

3. Sub-project Technical Profile 11

4. Baseline Analysis 14

5. Research Achievements 17

6. Innovations 64

7. Process/Product/Technology/Value Chain/Rural Industry

Developed

93

8. Patents (Filed/Granted) 93

9. Linkages and Collaborations 94

10. Status on Environmental and Social Safeguard Aspects 95

11. Constraints, if any and Remedial Measures Taken 95

12. Publications 95

13. Media Products Developed/Disseminated 100

14. Meetings/Seminars/Trainings/Kisan Mela, etc. organized 100

15. Participation in Conference/ Meetings/Trainings/ Radio talks, etc. 104

16. Trainings/Visits undertaken (National/ International) 105

17. Performance Indicators 106

18. Employment Generation 107

19. Assets Generated 107

20. Awards and Recognitions 113

21. Steps Undertaken for Post NAIP Sustainability 113

22. Possible Future Line of Work 113

23. Personnel 114

24. Governance, Management, Implementation and Coordination 115

Part-III: Budget and its Utilization 117

Part-IV: Declaration 121

Pro-forma:

1. Details of Technologies Developed/ Validated/ Adopted

2. Details of Technologies/ Innovations Commercialized

3. Details of Rural Entrepreneurships/ Rural Industries Developed

Annexure:

1. Guidelines for Citation of Publications

2. General Guidelines for Developing Final Report

1

Executive Summary

Natural dyes are in the forefront today due to the ban imposed on the use of synthetic dyes

throughout the globe. The natural dye industry was nearly vanished towards the middle of 19th

century and since then it is practiced in few pockets of the selected states in the country. As per

the reports, there are around 6,500 artisans (mostly village artisans and tribal people) who are

practicing this trade today against as high as 3 lakhs artisans in middle of 19th century. Most of

the artisans have left this traditional work because of non-availability of sufficient work and

uneconomical financial returns owing to the introduction of synthetic dyes. Consequently, the

expertise once practiced by the artisans is lost due to poor documentation. As per the recent

reports, the international demand of vegetable dyed textiles including carpets is envisaged to

rise by 33%. India being a hub for various natural dye products, should strive forward to expand

and bag the benefit out of current situation.

Dyeing with synthetic dyes is characterised by high environmental pollution and high health risk

to personnel handling harmful substances. With increased awareness on environmental pollution,

consumers are now shifting to increased use of ‘natural products’. Consequently, demand for

research on Natural dye industry has gained momentum.

A baseline survey was conducted to study and understand the natural dye scenario in the state of

Andhra Pradesh. The state is well known for printed fabrics with natural dyes. Around 1.2

million meters of cloth per year is made in natural dyes. The production is unorganized and there

are no manufacturers that supply large quantities of natural dyed and printed textiles. The major

gaps found in this production to consumption value chain are improper management of natural

dye sources, poor adopted technology, lack of commercial availability of natural dyes and its

products, limited awareness levels amongst different end user segments, lack of standards for

quality and eco-friendly certification of Natural dyes.

To address the above gaps, the following objectives and activities were planned with one private

partner from the natural dye industry M/S Shyamal Handlooms:

1. To Standardize eco-friendly cost effective natural dye production and processing

technologies

Sustainable supply of natural dye source material

Wild dye collector’s level- Selection, collection and post harvest techniques

Farmer’s level- Development of package of practices for cultivation of Natural Dyes

– Indigo and Marigold

Standardization of the technology of dyeing and printing with natural dyes

Colour Concentrates – Standardization of1 the production of natural dye pigments in

concentrated form.

2

Dyeing cotton, silk and banana fibres with natural dyes – standardization of the

procedures for production of full colour spectrum on cotton, silk and banana with

improved fastness, evenness and replicability besides environmental safeguards.

Eco- powders – Standardization of popular shades of Eco powders with colour

enhancement and sticking quality

Eco- Paints – Standardization of natural dye shades of paints which can be spray

dried suitable for larger scale production, as well the use of paints on varied

decorative products.

2. To develop entrepreneurial skills of stake holders in natural dye value chain.

Augment the skill level of the artisans & other stakeholders in VC

Organise trainings to dye source collectors, farmers, weavers, artisans, SHGs etc

3. To establish small scale pilot plants to promote natural dye value chain.

Establishing pilot plants and training cum production units to create facility and showcase

scaling up of the technologies

Development of value added products & packaging

4. To ensure additional employment and income, through national and international market

networking in the field of textiles, handicrafts and surface paints

Organise awareness and promotional programmes, showcase the products through

exhibitions, participation in business conventions to promote national and

international market linkages

5. To develop quality parameters for natural dye end use products for international market

Develop quality parameters for assessing the natural dye end use products

Organize International workshop on developed quality parameters of natural dye end

use products

Research Achievements:

Lead Centre:

Production Technologies:

The cultivation practices of indigo and marigold were standardized in ARS, Utukur, YSR

Kadapa dt, ANGRAU. Indigo responded well to the application of different organic fertilizers

and phosphorus, and higher green yield was recorded (1517 Kg/ha) with split application of

vermicompost. Around 150 farmers were trained in the improved package of practices. After

two years of intervention it was found that Indigo cultivation increased from 0 (base line data)to

2000 acres and 700 farmers have taken up the cultivation as they receive a profit of Rs 20000

per acre.

Yellow gold private hybrid seed nursery for marigold cultivation was raised in plastic seedling

trays with coco pit media for 30 days and healthy seedlings transplanted in main field in two

3

different spacing 40x30 cms, 30x20 cms and organic manures were applied with equated doses

of 100 N/ha, 100 P/ha, and 100 K/ha was applied through SSP and MOP. Highest flower yield

in both years (18852, 11398 Kg/ha) was recorded in 30x20 spacing with castor cake manure

applied as N source followed by vermicompost (17314, 9089) Kg/ha which is significantly

superior over 40x30 cms with all four organic manures. Highest pigment content was found

with the application of vermicompost followed by urea and neem cake application with a

spacing of 30 X 20 cms.

Collection of natural dye sources:

The high altitude areas of Andhra Pradesh have thick forests that contain abundant sources of

natural dye. Only few dyes are being collected by the tribal groups from these forests and sell to

the Girijan Cooperative Corporation. Other than GCC there is no market existing for natural dye

sources in A. P. The artisans source from Chennai market and suffer with adulterated stuff and

also price fluctuations.

Under NAIP an attempt was made to identify the potential natural dye sources available in the

forests pf A.P. and to develop their post-harvest practices. Series of training programmes were

organised to train tribal SHGs in Rampachodavaram and Chintapally area in identification,

post-harvest and storage practices of natural dyes to ensure the supply of quality natural dyes

with high pigment content.

Processing Technologies:

The processing technologies such as dyeing cotton, silk and banana fibre with natural dyes have

been developed. The eco-powders and eco-paints were also developed to provide safe colours

and control environmental pollution.

Dyeing Textiles with Natural Dyes:

Research study was undertaken to standardize the dyeing procedures with natural dyes on cotton,

silk and banana to provide the standard methods for achieving good and fast natural dyes on

textiles to the weavers and artisans. The selected natural dye sources include Butea monosperma

flower and gum Bixa orellana, Tagetus erecta, Eclipta prostrata, Indigofera Tinctoria,

Eucalypyus globules, Terminalia chebula, Arjuna terminialia, Caesalpinia sappan, lac dye etc.

The mordants such as Alum, Ferrous Sulphate, Stannous Chloride, Tartaric acid and Chitosan

were used to provide better dye retention. The dye concentration of all the sources was optimized

in the range of 2% to 10%. In case of cotton the yarn was pretreated with 20% Myrobalan to help

in better colour retention. The colour strength was estimated by using colour matching Spectro

photometer with L* a* b* coordinates.

Characterization of the dye sources revealed the presence of natural dye pigments such as bixin,

butain, gallic acid, xanthophyll, quercetin, Arjunnoside, Haematein, Indigoid etc. The suitable

4

wavelength for these pigments ranged from 400nm to 680nm. Their structures were identified.

bixa ovellana dye produced light to dark orange shades on cotton and silk. The colours showed

very fair to good fastness to sunlight. Satisfactory fastness to washing, rubbing and perspiration

was obtained.

The bark of Arjun terminalia produced very fast brown shade on cotton and silk. The colours are

more darker on Silk. Good to excellent fastness to all serviceable conditions was observed i.e. to

light, washing, rubbing and perspiration

The flower of Butea monosperma produced good yellow shades on cotton and silk. The shades

were found to possess very fair to excellent fastness to sunlight, washing, rubbing and

perspiration. The colours are slightly sensitive to wet rubbing and alkaline perspiration.

The dark gum obtained from the bark of Butea monosperma produced dark brown to maroon

shades on cotton and silk. The shades were colour fast to all serviceable conditions.

The bark of Eucalyptus globules produced pinkish brown shades in cotton and silk and banana

textiles. Very good to excellent fastness was observed to sunlight, washing, rubbing and

perspiration.

Eclipta prostrata, a weed from paddy fields was able to produce fluorescent light green shades on

cotton, silk and banana. These shades were found to have very good to excellent fastness to all

serviceable conditions.

The Xanthophyll pigments from Tagetus erecta produced good yellow to mustard shades on

natural textiles. All shades showed good to excellent fastness to all serviceable conditions. Little

sensitivity to perspiration was observed. The marigold yellow variety showed very good to

excellent fastness when compared to red variety.

Lac dye also produced light to dark pinkish to red shades on cotton, silk and banana fibers. The

fastness grades were found to be good to excellent.

The cost of dyeing with natural dyes was found to be higher than the dyeing with synthetic dyes

(1 ½ to 2 times) but the premium price attached to the natural dyed fabrics was much beyond the

synthetic fabrics.

The effluents from the natural dye production are less harmful than the effluents of the synthetic

dyes. There are no effluent standards laid by the Pollution Control Board separately fir natural

dyes. The natural dye source after dye extraction could effectively made as briquettes and also

used for production of bio-fertilizer. The effluent water is safe for irrigation purpose.

5

A study was under taken to explore and establish the ultraviolet protection rendered by natural

dyes on natural textiles of different fabric thickness. The transmittance of UVA, UVB rays was

estimated with UPF. It was found that the UVA and UVB rays were blocked to considerable

extent by thin and medium weight fabrics over the control. But thick fabrics provided more than

75% protection by blocking the rays and also by possessing maximum UPF values irrespective

of the natural dye and mordant used.

The antimicrobial functions of selected dyes on textiles were studied. The butea gum dyed

samples showed good antimicrobial properties (zoi- 2 mm). The other dyes also showed

antimicrobial activity to certain extent. (zoi-1mm).

Natural dye based eco-colours were developed as an alternative to the most hazardous synthetic

Holi colours available in the market. As per the feed bark of the consumer, 6 colours were

produced and the technology was validated and commercialized. It was licensed to two firms and

they are able to supply around 6 tonnes in the current year. There is much demand for this

product due to the price advantage over its counterpart products. It is expected to grow and

partially replace the synthetic Holi colour market.

Another technology was developed to produce eco-paints for painting idols which are immersed

after the festivals, as the synthetic paints used on these idols are causing pollution and killing the

aqua bodies. Around 56 shades were developed using natural dye extracts and natural gums. The

technology has been transferred to artisan and children in schools.

A pilot plant for natural dye extractions was established at RARS, Chintapally to convert the

natural dye source into concentrated form. The plant has the capacity of producing 6 to 10kgs of

ready to use natural dye. This unit facilitates the tribal and farmer groups to try natural dye

products using its collected or cultivated natural dye resources. Another pilot plant for Indigo

extraction was established at ARS, Utukur, YSR Kadapa district, A.P. This facilitated the

farmers to convert their crop to indigo cake.

Natural dyes were introduced in banana fiber handicrafts to overcome the problem associated

with dyeing using synthetic dyes. A group of 30 women were trained in dyeing with natural dyes

and also in making handicrafts for a period of 3 months in 2 spells and a unit was established at

Muchinthal, Shamshabad mandal, Ranga Reddy District. These women were identified as skilled

personnel by GMR Varalakshmi foundation and were employed by them. They are able to earn

Rs.45000 to 46000 per month.

In another intervention, natural dyes were introduced in lacquer toys by imparting training to the

artisans. To overcome the problems of using synthetic colours for export, the technology was

adopted by the artisans and the Department of Crafts, Government of A.P. has come forward to

replace the synthetic colours with natural colours in all wooden toys produced in A.P.

6

.

A natural dye incubation centre was established at college of Home Science, Hyderabad. The

centre has equipment/ instruments to facilitate dyers, weavers, artisans, entrepreneur SHGs etc to

develop their natural dye products on pilot scale and also test the quality of the products. This

laboratory was certified with ISO 9002-2008 to take up the activities commercially.

A group of weavers from Pochampally Handloom Park were trained in dyeing cotton with

natural dyes and the park was able to take few orders for the supply of natural dyed textiles of

the park to natural dyeing. The Govt of A.P. is planning to convert 50% of the ikat textile

production of the Park to natural dyeing.

Three training-cum-production centers were established under this project. The silk dyeing and

weaving unit at Hindupur facilitates dyeing of silk with natural dyes and weaving into sarees,

dress material, shirting material, stolls etc. lot of demand for these products was found and the

dyer and 10 weavers were able to earn 25 to 30% more income per month.

A cotton dyeing unit was established at Koyalagudem by a dyer who received training from

NAIP. He was able to get good orders and also exported natural dyed Ikat textiles to an

international company M/S MAIWA. He is able to increase his monthly /annual income 3 to 5

times more.

A banana dyeing and weaving unit was established at Rajahmundry. An unemployed youth has

established this unit with the support from NAIP and he is able to find remunerative

employment. The unit facilitates extraction of banana fibre from pseudo stem, dye the fibre and

weave the textiles. As it is a novel fabric, demand for this fabric in growing especially from

textile and approval designers.

Intervention with Kalamkari artisans, Pedana: Kalamkari printed textiles are produced from

Pedana, Andhra Pradesh. The demand for their textiles has come down due to the use of limited

colours and also poor colour fastness. Even though they use synthetic topping colour, the results

are not good. The Vegetable Hand Block kalamkari Printers Association from pedana have

approached the project and seek help to overcome the problems. A training programme was

conducted to train the artisans in dyeing with natural dyes. Few fast yellow colours for printing

were developed on their request. The Department of Crafts, Government of A.P. has come

forward to support the training of all the artisans at pedana in dyeing and printing with genuine

natural dyes

Painting competitions were held to the national and international children in collaboration with

National Green Corps, APPCB, and Hyderabad using eco-paints produced.

The products were showcased through participation in not less than 100 exhibitions conducted

nationally and also in Taiwan under the Department of Culture and Arts, Government of Taiwan.

7

An appreciation certificate has been obtained from ICAR, Governor of Andhra Pradesh, Taiwan

Government and many other organizations.

Quality Standards and Certification for Natural dyes: The quality parameters for natural dye

textiles have been developed in this project. As exclusive certification for natural dyes does not

exist, an attempt is made to discuss this issue on an International platform. Accordingly an

International Workshop was conducted with 450 participants out of whom 41 are international

participants from 14 countries. The group consisted of scientists, industry, artisans, weavers,

dyers, designers etc. who had very good deliberations on several issues related to natural dyes

and certification. Several recommendations were emerged from the group. GOTS have come

forward to work on exclusive certification to natural dyes.

Children, who are going to play a big role in future, were targeted to habituate towards eco-

friendly cultural practices of playing with colour and painting idols during festivals. Around

10,000 children in schools were sensitized in these practices. Other awareness programmes were

also conducted like Harithon, a marathon organised to focus on use of eco-friendly organic

products with natural dyes (participated for 3 years with 3000 to 4000 participants each time).

One of the unique feature of this value chain is to make the stakeholders aware of the merits of

natural dyes convincing them to become a part in this value chain. It became imperative to

develop number of value added natural dye products at high scale to showcase the merits of the

technologies before introducing them in the market.

Overall implementing this project in a value chain mode is a new, fruitful and wholesome

experience. The project was implemented successfully with need based research, meaningful

interventions and essential training for various stakeholders in the value chain for knowledge

enhancement and skill up gradation. A visible value chain has been established through effective

linkage development (Value chain in Annexure - III). Efforts were made to study the economics

of the various technologies developed and to scale up for adoption by the industry. Innovative

eco-friendly products were developed for the industry as an alternative to the existing highly

polluting products. Even though, the project is in value chain mode, number of women

stakeholders especially Tribals and SHGs were trained to become effective partners. The

government of A.P. has included few activities of value chain as priority under their community

programmes. Based on the interventions of the project, Pollution Control Board has come up

with an ordinance to ban synthetic colours in idol painting and encouraged use of natural dyes. In

recent past, strict vigilance of PCB have really made around 700 synthetic dyeing units to close

down due to non-existence of effluent treatment plants. This has created tremendous scope for

natural dye use by the industries. Textile industry especially cotton knitting industry will be

benefited by adopting natural dyeing technologies for their exports. The eco-powders and eco-

paints are going to play a dominant role in the years to come in view of increasing awareness for

environmental protection and health safeguards.

8

Part-I: General Information of Sub-project

1. Title of the sub-project : Value Chain in Natural Dyes

2. Sub-project code : 20015

3. Component : 2

4. Date of sanction of sub-project : 10th

June 2008

5. Date of completion : 31st March 2014

6. Extension if granted, from : 1st July 2013 to31st March 2014

7. Duration of the sub project : 6 years

8. Total sanctioned amount for the sub-project: 477.35 lakhs

9. Total expenditure of the sub-project:

10. Consortium leader : Dr. A. Padma Raju

Vice Chancellor,


Rajendranagar


Ph: 040-24015035

e-mail: [email protected]

11. List of consortium partners:

Name of CPI/ CCPI

with designation

Name of organization and

address, phone & fax, email

Duration

(From-To)

Budget

(` Lakhs)

CPI Dr. A.Sharada Devi,

Emeritus Scientist,

(ICAR)

College of Home Science

Saifabad, Hyderabad – 500 004

Ph & Fax: 040-23241059; M:

09989625229

[email protected]

June 2008-

March 2014

421.45

CCPI 1 U. Subba Rao,

M/s Shyamal Handlooms,

Sivalayam Street, Chirala

M: 9948042265

e-mail:

[email protected]

June 2008-

March 2014

55.90

Total 477.35

CPI-Consortia Principal Investigator; CCPI-Consortia Co-Principal Investigator

mailto:[email protected]



9

12. Statement of budget released and utilization partner-wise (` in Lakhs):

CPI/ CCPI Name,

designation & address)

Total budget

sanctioned

Fund released

(up to closing

date)

Fund utilized

(up to closing date)

CPI Dr. A.Sharada Devi,

Emeritus Scientist, (ICAR)

College of Home Science

Saifabad, Hyderabad – 500

004

421.45 395.27349 395.27349

CCPI V. Subba Rao

M/s Shyamal Handlooms,

Perala Street, Chirala

55.90 3.805 3.772

Total 399.078 391.50149

CPI-Consortia Principal Investigator; CCPI-Consortia Co-Principal Investigator

10

Part-II: Technical Details

1. Introduction

Natural dyes are obtained from renewable resources and the usage of these dyes

contributes the conservation of the nature. As the pigment content in these dyes is very low, lot

of source material is required. Natural dyes are not marketed in large quantities as these dyes are

consumed only by few specified groups. In Andhra Pradesh natural dyes are not cultivated for

the purpose of preparing the dye. Lot of varieties that give rise to good colours are present in the

forests and other waste lands. Collection of these dyes will not only provide livelihood to rural

and tribal people but also make the dye ready for promoting value chain in natural dyes. The

major gaps found in this production to consumption value chain are improper management of

natural dye sources, poor adopted technology, lack of commercial availability of natural dyes

and its products, limited awareness levels amongst different end user segments, lack of

standards for quality and eco-friendly certification of Natural dyes. To address these gaps and to

establish a feasible ‘production to consumption model’ in natural dyes, a project on Value chain

in Natural dyes is launched with the following five objectives and activities (Proposed value

chain in Annexure-II).

2. Overall Sub-project Objectives

1. To standardize eco-friendly cost effective natural dye production and processing

technologies

2. To develop entrepreneurial skills of stake holders in natural dye value chain

3. To establish small scale pilot plants to promote natural dye value chain

4. To ensure additional employment and income, through national and international market

networking in the fields of textiles, handicrafts and surface paints

5. To develop quality parameters for natural dye enduse products for international market

11

3. Sub-project Technical Profile

Table 1. Work plan and monitoring indicators

S.

No

Work Plan Outputs and

Activity

Monitoring

Indicators

Expected outputs Expected

Outcomes

1 Output 1: Baseline

survey on availability,

supply, application,

demand and marketing

of natural dye supply

chain completed

Database and survey

report

Assessment of

existing natural

dye value chain in

A.P

Utilised to find the

gaps in the value

chain and helped in

planning for

different

interventions

2 Output 2: Characterized

toxic free natural dye

sources

Number of natural

dye sources

characterized

Natural dye

sources ready to

use

For use by the

weavers and dyers

3 Output 3: Standardized

package of practices for

better pigment and

yield of Indigo and

Marigold.

Number of Package

of practices

developed

No. of farmers

benefited

Package of

practices for

cultivation of

marigold and

indigo

standardized and

adopted

Farmers adopt the

technology

Indigo Seed

availability within

A.P

Cross learning

among the farmers

for adoption of

technology


and Developed the

technology for

production of spectrum

of fast shades for

cotton, silk and banana

textiles

Technology licensed

No. of standardized

shades on cotton,

silk and banana

No. of

artisans/weavers/

dyers benefited

Documentation of

the Spectrum of

natural dye shades

Increased demand

for the variety of

products

developed

Availability of

natural dye shades

for adoption by

weavers, dyers and

artisans

Economic gains to

the artisans/

weavers/ dyers

using the

technologies


technology for eco-

paints and eco-colours

No. of standardized

shades in eco-

colours

Eco-powders and

Eco-paints

availability in the

Health benefits to

the society besides

providing

12

Technology licensed

No. of standardized

shades in eco-paints

No. of beneficiaries

market

economic gain to

the stakeholders

6 Output 6: Eco-friendly

products developed–

Banana handicrafts

No. of products

developed

Skill level of the

SHGs in making

variety of

handicrafts

Eco-friendly dyed

banana handicrafts

availability in the

market

Economic gain to

the SHGs with

sustainable

linkages

7 Output 7: Capacity

building of various

stakeholders in the

natural dye value chain

7.1 Training farmers in

cultivation and post

harvest practices of

indigo and marigold

No. of trainings

conducted and no. of

farmers trained

Enhancement of

capacities of

various

stakeholders in

natural dye

practices

Skilled personnel

introduced in the

value chain

Quality products

availability ensured

in the market 7.2 Training tribal self

help groups - selection

and collection of

natural sources and

their post harvesting of

natural dye sources

No. of trainings


SHGs trained

7.3 Training artisans -

Weavers and dyers -

Hands on experience on

the technology of

dyeing with natural

dyes

No. of trainings


weavers/ dyers/

SHGs trained

7.5 Training artisans -

idol painters –

preparation of eco-

paints and painting idos

No. of trainings


artisans trained

7.6Training artisans -

Printing with natural

dyes

No. of trainings


artisans trained

7.7 Training SHGs -

Preparation of eco-

paints with natural dyes

No. of trainings


SHGs trained

13

7.8 Training SHGs -

Production and packing

of value added natural

dye end use products

No. of trainings


SHGs trained

Output 7.9:

Documentation of

training materials

(manuals, video

material, exhibits)

Development and

popularization of

training material to

various stakeholders

Number of training

manuals and video

material developed

to suit the target

group and

popularised

Training manuals

on various natural

dye practices

being available

Enriched

knowledge and

skill upgradation

among various

stakeholders in

natural dye value

chain

8 Output 8.1: Pilot model

established for pigment

extraction from natural

dyes

No. of dye sources

optimized for

production

Output of the final

product

Natural dye

concentrates made

available in the

market

Facility being

created for budding

entrepreneurs and

artisans / weavers /

dyers etc.

Continuous supply

of natural dye

concentrates to the

industrial user

Output 8.2 : Pilot model

for indigo extraction

Output and quality

of the final product

Output 8.3: Incubation

centre for natural dye

and its products

No. of beneficieries

No. of trainings

conducted

9 Output 9: Improved

awareness levels on

natural dye and its

products

Popularisation of

natural dye

technologies

No. of printed and

audio visual material

developed for

popularisation

Increased demand

for natural dye

products

Knowledge

enhancement

among the

consumers with

regard to natural

dye and its

products

10 Output 10: Established

three production-cum-

training centers for

natural dye enduse

products

Production capacity

utilization

No. of products

developed

No. of trainings

conducted

No. of beneficiaries

Scaled up the

technology for

mass production

Real product

pricing being

established

Facilitate cross

learning among

many stakeholders

and stakeholders

from different

places adopt the

model

11 Output 11: Economic

feasibility and

No. of products

evaluated by

Products of

consumer

Quality

enhancement in

14

assessment of consumer

acceptance for pricing

of natural dye enduse

products

consumers preference being

produced

natural dye

products

12 Output 12: Market

orientation to

consumers in metros

13 Output 13: Established

national and

international markets

No. of market

linkages established

Demand for

natural dye

products increased

in both national

and international

markets

Export promotion

14 Output 14: Developed

quality parameters for

assessing the natural

dye enduse products

and validation

Protocols for quality

assessment of

natural dye end use

products

Consumers could

judge the quality

of natural dyes

Certification in

natural dyes

4. Baseline Analysis

The Natural dye value chain in the state of Andhra Pradesh is not very prominent as the market

for natural dye resources do not exist in A.P. (Annexure – I). There is high potential for raw

material collection and setting up the market, but no specific steps have been evolved. Natural

dyes are known to most of the consumers as vegetable Kalamkari dyes due to the existence of

this traditional natural dye art in two clusters of A.P i.e., Block printed Kalamkari in Pedana and

Pen Kalamkari in Srikalahasthi.

The sample of baseline survey was comprised of collectors (130) from

Rampachodavaram and Chintaplly, weavers (210) of Ikhat , Gadwal, Dhrmavaram, Venkatagiri,

Chirala , Pedana and Mangalagiri clusters of Nalgonda, Mahabubnagar, Anantapur, Nellore,

Prakasam, and Guntur districts, entrepreneurs (100) located in West Godavari, East Godavari,

Warangal and Hyderabad districts and crop farmers (75) in Utukur, Maredumilli, and Chirala

areas of Kadapa, E.Godavari and Prakasam districts respectively. A sample of 30 artisans and

traders each from Krishna, Visakhapatnam, West Godavari and Chittoor districts. A total of 105

customers are randomly studied from all parts of the state. Thus all categories of stakeholders of

the value chain were interviewed to analyze the existing scenario.

15

Collectors

Very casual collections of NTP like Myrobalan and Annatto ranging from 5-25 kgs, by

tribal women and were selling at a lower price in the village shandy to middle men

Bixa Orellana was cultivated as fencing trees around houses in tribal areas: but not as dye

yielders. The seed was sold at a lower price of Rs. 10/- per kg to middle men and rarely

to GCC

None of the collectors were aware

- that the collected materials are potential natural dye sources and have high market

value

- the scope of application of natural dye in various products

- post-harvest measures for safe storage of natural dye plant sources

- other available natural dye materials in that area like Eclipta Prostata, Eucalyptus,

Arjun terminalia, etc.

Monthly income was Rs. 2000/- while monthly expenditure was Rs.2350/-

Average baseline person days were 36 per year.

Farmers

Kadapa district, which was known for indigo cultivation and extraction once, had almost

forgotten about it. At the time of baseline survey, only one farmer with a small extraction

unit was identified. He was also not cultivating every year.

The annual income was Rs.10,000/- per acre

Non availability of package with organic nutrients

No linkage with dye extractors and yarn dyers was reported to be one of the reasons for

discontinuity of indigo cultivation

Marigold was cultivated for ornamental purpose, but not for dye extraction and Rs. 20000/-

was annual income per acre.

Dyers

Complained low colour fastness of natural dyes as limitation for adoption

Availability of limited shades was a constraint to satisfy the traders/marketers as well as

consumers

On average they had 180 working days per year with an income of Rs. 5000/- per month

Only 2% of them were aware of ready to use liquid and powder forms of natural dys, but

not their availability.

Major constraints reported by them were

- No market for natural dyes in A.P.

16

- No demand from weavers or traders for natural dyed yarn

- High cost and drudgery due to laborious procedure involved in dyeing of yarn with

natural dye

- Non availability of expert advocacy on natural dye application

- Lack of quality parameters for natural dye extraction

Weavers

Weaving was the only source of income and monthly income was Rs.3500/-

On an average silk and cotton weavers were working for only 168 days in a year and

remaining days idle. Banana fibre weavers have only 65 working days, due to no demand

for it.

Most of them were aware of natural dyes; but not availability of trustworthy natural dyes

The major complaints made by them were

- No encouragement from the Government traders and consumers as the cost of natural

dye textiles is high

- Limited shades. Designs and products were found to be a constraint resulting in low

demand

- Lack of standards and identification for natural dyed textiles and garments

- No linkages exist with metro markets.

- No brands.

Artisans (Dye extractors, idol & toy painters)

No training or information or standardized procedures were available to improve the cost

effectiveness of natural dye extraction.

A monthly income of Rs.5000/- and 220 working days per year were reported

Non availability of procedures to improve the brightness of natural dye colour.

Not able to maintain the consistency in colour fastness

Laborious procedure was involved in dye extraction and painting

No standards and certification for natural dyed products

Consumers

Natural dye products were very expensive compared to chemically products

Limited product line which was unable to satisfy the taste of the consumers

Natural dyed textile products were dull and have low colour fastness

No branded items found in the market.

No continuous availability of garments and textiles

17

Quality assurance issues

High dissatisfaction levels exist with the non-availability of quality assurance to certify the

products manufacture by the artisans. Before increasing the market size for natural dyes there is a

need to provide certificate and educate the consumer to receive such a certificate during the

purchase of natural dyed products. Data revealed that the cost of collection of plants and cost

involved in procurement and extracting these dyes is very high.

There is a big gap in the availability of marketing personnel in this trade which needs to

be built in to increase the demand for the products and bridge the gap between manufacturers and

consumers. Only one in every three respondents are satisfied with the loyalty of consumers to

their products. In any trade customer satisfaction is the key to the success of the trade. In case

there are no repeated customers, the market size dwindles and thereby impacting the profits in

the trade. There is an urgent need to enhance customer loyalty to these products through

promotional activities

18

Research Achievements with Summary

Lead Centre:

Production Technology:

Raising of Marigold & Indigo for high yield and colour pigment:

On- station experiments were initiated during the year 2009-10 with two dye crops viz,

Indigo and Marigold to study the influence of different sources of organic manures and

spacing on crop productivity and quality. On station experiments were conducted at

Utukur, Kadapa farm the experimental sites were located on southern zone of Andhra

Pradesh. The soils are red sandy loam with low organic carbon, available nitrogen,

medium in phosphorus and high in potassium. The experiments were conducted in split

plot and RBD designs with three replications.

Table 2. Inputs for Cultivation of Indigo and Marigold

Techniques adopted INDIGO MARIGOLD

Design: Split plot RBD (Factorial)

Replications 3 3

Treatments Main plot:

T1.BasaL Application

T2 Split doses(basal and 45 DAS)

Sub plots:

M1:FYM

M2: Verrmicompost

M3: 10 N Kg/ha

M4: FYM + Vermicompost (50:50)

M5: FYM+ N (50:50)

M6: Vermicompost +N (50:50)

M7:Control

Spacing 2

S1: 40 x 30 cm

S2: 30 x 20 cm

Organic sources

(Equalent to Recommended N)

M1: FYM

M2: Vermicompost

M3: Castor cake

M4: Neem cake

M5: Urea

M6: Control

Method of irrigation Drip irrigation Drip irrigation

Spacing 30X10cm As per treatment

Species Indigo flora tinctoria Popular hybrid/variety

Duration 100-110 days 180 days

Plot size 3.6 X 5.0 m 3.6 X 5.0 m

Duration 3-5 Years

Data to be collected 1.Plant population/m2 1.Plant population/m

2

2.Plant height (cm) 2.Days to 50% flowering

3.No.Branchesper plant 3.No.of flowers per plant

4.Green weight at 90 and 100 DAS 4.Flower yield per plant (Kg)

5.Greenleaf yield Kg/ ha 5.Duration

19

6.Dye yield Kg/ha 6.Yield Kg/ha

7.Economics 7. Dye yield kg per ha

8. Economics.

Indigo:

Indigo was sown in July at 30 x 10 spacing and organic manures were equated to 10 Kg

N per hectare and balance phosphorus is supplied through SSP (30 Kg P/ha). Indigo

response well to application of different organic fertilizers and phosphorus, and higher

green yield was recorded (1517 Kg/ha) with split application of vermicompost (at basal

and 45 days)

Marigold:

Yellow gold private hybrid seed nursery was raised in plastic seedling trays with coco pit

media for 30 days and healthy seedlings were transplanted in main field in two different

spacing 40x30 cms, 30x20 cms and organic manures were applied with equated doses of

100 N/ha, 100 P/ha, and 100 K/ha and was applied through SSP and MOP. Highest

flower yield in both years (18852, 11398 Kg/ha) was recorded in 30x20 spacing with

castor cake manure applied as N source followed by vermicompost (17314, 9089) Kg/ha

which is significantly superior over 40x30 cms with all four organic manures.

Healthy marigold seedlings could be obtained by raising of nursery in plastic tray with

coco peat. The following are the salient findings:

• Maximum flower yield with good quality was recorded in castor cake and vermin-

compost treatments

• Higher flower yield was observed in treatments with spacing of 30x20 cms

• Indigo dye crop responded to application of organic manures with supplemental

irrigation at long dry spells during rainy season

The produced marigold flowers were shade dried flowers were tested for xanthophyll content at

IIT, Kanpur.

Table 3. Xanthophyll content in Marigold flowers

S.no Code Xanthophyll content

(g/kg)

1. R1S1M6 3.460

2. R1S1M2 3.248

3. R1S1M5 3.319

4. R1S1M4 3.319

20

5. R1S1M1 3.460

6. R1S1M3 2.825

7. R1S2M1 7.627

8. R1S2M2 9.957

9. R1S2M3 5.861

10. R1S2M4 4.802

11. R1S2M5 5.085

12. R1S2M6 4.237

13. R2S1M1 2.825

S.no Code Xanthophyll content

(g/kg)

14. R2S1M2 4.096

15. R2S1M3 4.802

16. R2S1M4 6.426

17. R2S1M5 4.943

18. R2S1M6 6.285

19. R2S2M1 10.169

20. R2S2M2 15.183

21. R2S2M3 12.923

22. R2S2M4 14.406

23. R2S2M5 14.689

24. R2S2M6 14.194

25. R3S1M1 4.943

26. R3S1M2 12.288

27. R3S1M3 11.864

28. R3S1M4 12.429

29. R3S1M4 12.005

30. R3S1M5 11.793

31. R3S1M6 13.912

32. R3S2M1 6.426

33. R3S2M2 12.994

34. R3S2M3 7.486

35. R3S2M5 11.299

36. R3S2M6 9.110

Highest pigment content was found with the application of vermicompost followed by urea and

neem cake application with a spacing of 30 X 20 cms. As much difference do not exist between

21

urea and vermicompost application, the package of vermicompost application with 30 X 20 cm.

spacing is recommended.

Impact of the technology:

Standardization of package of practices for natural dye crops which are more suitable for

dry land agriculture (Indigo and Marigold) and may increase the dye yields, profitability

and sustainability in dry lands and improved soil health.

The technology was adopted and Indigo cultivation increased from 0 to 2000 acres

among 700 farmers. The technology was popularized through demonstrations and print

and electronic media.

5% increase in Marigold cultivation was observed among the farmers.

Market for Marigold and Indigo was established at Vegetable hand block printing Artisans

association Pedana & Hyderabad.

Economic gain to the farmers:

It is estimated that an additional income of Rs15000/acre could be earned by adoption of

the technology developed for indigo cultivation apart from generating employment for 10

persons throughout the year. The average costs and returns of the 60 farmers around

Utukur where the intervention was developed and disseminated is

Cost of cultivation: Rs 2500.00

Gross returns: Rs 17000

Net returns : Rs 14500

BCR : 5.8

Figure 1. Benefit of indigo cultivation to the farmers

22

The estimated annual benefit from 2000 acre would be around Rs 29.00 crores. The

yields and net returns will be increased if all the farmers follow the intervention with

supplemental irrigation at long dry spells during rainy season. The benefit will be much

more if we strengthen the linkages and market for natural dyes by exploiting the niche

markets.

An additional income of Rs.4000-5000 / could be earned by adoption of the package

developed. Most of the farmers are marketing the flowers for ornamental purpose and

with the increase in yield and flower size resulted in additional income. Some of the

farmers are selling the produce to the dyers. The small intervention of grading the

produce and selling the big flowers for ornamental purpose and small flowers for dye

purpose also resulted in additional income

Collection of natural dye sources:

The high altitude areas of Andhra Pradesh have thick forests that contain abundant sources of

natural dyes. Only few dyes are being collected by the tribal groups from these forests and sell

to the Girijan Cooperative Corporation. Other than GCC there is no market existing for natural

dye sources in A. P. The artisans source from Chennai market and suffer with adulterated stuff

and also price fluctuations.

Under NAIP an attempt was made to identify the potential natural dye sources available in the

forests of A.P. and their post-harvest practices were developed. Series of training programmes

were organised to train tribal SHGs in Rampachodavaram and Chintapally area in identification,

post-harvest and storage practices of natural dyes to ensure the supply of quality natural dyes

with high pigment content.

With the interventions of the NAIP staff, the tribal collectors were able to earn more amount for

their produce. Annato seed which was available at Rs 14 at the time of starting the project was

enhanced to Rs 80 per Kg at present.

Processing technology:

Dyeing Textiles:

The environment pollution is gaining importance as being one of the most challenging problems

facing the human race at present. The textile industry, of late, has been bombarded with

accusations that its products are carcinogenic, allergic and mutagenic to the wearer and users.

Many small units that cannot afford to have a treatment plants are being closed by enforcement

of the law by the Govt. Natural dyes are environmentally sound and are abundantly available in

nature and also can be grown by organic methods. They are inherently carbon neutral. Vibrant

colours can be produced from natural dyes. Some of the limitations of natural dyes such as

23

limited fastness and replicability are being addressed in this project. Natural dyes are not totally

substantive to the textile fibres. Therefore, use of mordant for application on textiles are

necessary. Use of eco-friendly mordants do confirm to the eco-friendliness of the process and the

effluents are free from pollution.

Research study was undertaken to standardize the dyeing process with natural dyes on cotton,

silk and banana to provide the standard methods for achieving good and fast natural dyes on

textiles to the weavers and artisans.

The following parameters were standardized to dye cotton, silk and banana textiles based on the

colour strength, colourfastness of each shade and economy of dyeing:

Pretreatment procedures for dyeing

Methods of extraction: Aqueous, alkaline and acidic methods

pH of extraction: pH 4 to pH 10

Selection of eco-friendly mordants and percentage of mordant

pH suitable for dyeing

Dyeing parameters

Post treatment of yarn for colour retention and improving of colour on yarn

The colour strength (k/s values) of each shade was measured using Colour Matching

Spectrophotometer. The colour change and colour staining due to exposure to colourfastness

tests were also assessed using the same instrument. The procedure followed is furnished below:

Colourfastness Tests and Grades:

All dyed samples were tested for all serviceable conditions such as colourfastness to sunlight,

washing, rubbing (dry & wet) and perspiration (alkaline & acidic) by following the standard

prcedures laid down by Bureau of Indian Standards:

Colour fastness to Washing - IS: 687-1979

Colour fastness to Crocking (Dry & Wet) - IS: 766-1956

Colour fastness to Perspiration (Acidic & Alkaline) - IS: 971 – 1956

Colour fastness to Artificial Light (Xenon Lamp) - IS: 686-1957

The following grades are given as per BIS

Sunlight or artificial light (Xenon) : 1 to 8 (Poor to excellent) (Blue Wool Standards)

Washing : 1to 5 (Poor to good) (Grey Scale)

Perspiration : 1 to 5 (Poor to good)

Rubbing : 1 to 5 (Poor to good)

24

Selection of dyes: The dye sources were selected according to their availability in local areas

(table 4).

Table 4. Selected natural dye sources

Selection of mordants and percentages: Mordants are selected based on their eco-friendliness.

The percentage of mordants used and the Mordanting parameters are furnished below;

Table 5. Mordants selected for dyeing

Mordants used & percentage of mordant Mordanting

temperature

Mordanting time

Alum 10 to 20% 60o C 30 mins

Ferrous sulphate 1 to 3%

Stannous chloride 2 to 6%

Tartaric acid 10 to 20%

Chitoson 1 to 3%

Optimum conditions for Dyeing: The following dyeing parameters were found to give good

colour and fastness on cotton and silk.

Table 6. Standardized dyeing parameters for cotton

Dye

source

Extraction

medium

(Dyeing pH)

Extraction

time

Dye concentration (gm/100 ml) Dyeing

time Alum Ferrous

sulphate

Stannous

chloride

Tartaric

acid

Annatto Alkaline (10) 45 mins 6 9 7 7 45 mins

Arjun bark Aqueous (7) 5 2 9 6

S.No. Common name Botanical name

1. Flame of forest Butea monosperma

2. Annato seeds Bixa orellana

3. Marigold Tagetus erecta

4. Trailing eclipta Eclipta prostrata

5. Indigo Indigofera Tinctoria

6. Butea gum Butea monosperma

7. Eucalyptus Bark Eucalypyus globules

8. Myrobalan Terminalia chebula

9. Arjun bark Arjuna terminialia

10. Sappan wood Caesalpinia sappan

25

Butea

flowers

Alkaline (8) 2 3 4 10

Butea gum Alkaline (8) 5 7 5 5

Eclipta Aqueous (7) 5 5 5 8

Eucalyptu

s bark

Alkaline (8) 6 6 5 7

Marigold Aqueous (7) 7 7 4 6

Sappan

wood

Aqueous

Table 7. Standardized dyeing parameters for silk:

Dye source Extraction

medium

(Dyeing pH)

Extraction

time

Dye concentration (gm/100 ml) Dyeing

time Alum Ferrous

sulphate

Stannous

chloride

Tartaric

acid

Annatto Alkaline (6) 45 mins

7 6 6 4 30 mins

Arjun bark Aqueous

(4,6)

2 3 5 7

Butea

flowers


Butea gum Alkaline

(4,6)

1 6 4 3

Eclipta Alkaline (7) 3 6 5 4

Eucalyptus

bark


Marigold Aqueous (5) 4 3 9 6

Sappan

wood

The natural pigments content from the selected sources at the wavelength of higher absorbance is

furnished below:

Table 8. Pigment content in the natural dye sources

S. No Natural Dye Source Wavelength Pigment & content

g/Kg

1 Bixa Orellana 470 nm Bixin- 2.8

2 Butea monosperma (flower) 400 nm Buteol- 2.1

3 Butea monosperma (gum) 400 nm Gallic acid- 11.2

4 Tagetus erecta 400 nm Xanthophyll – 12.8

26

5 Eclipta prostrata 400 nm Flavone- 2.4

6 Indigofera Tinctoria 570nm Indigoid -

7 Eucalypyus globules 400 nm Quercetin – 5.3

8 Arjuna terminialia 410 nm &

680 nm

Arjunoside – 4.2

9 Caesalpinia sappan 520 nm Brazilian – 11.2

Natural dye sources were characterized using HPTLC and their chemical structures are furnished

below:

Annatto:

A yellowish orange pulpy substance coats each seed, which ultimately is the dye carotenoid

pigment. There are two colouring matters, orellana a yellow coloured water-soluble substance,

fat and resin. Bixin (C25 H20 O4) a red crystalline substance is sparingly soluble in water but

soluble in essential oils and in fixed oils. They are also soluble in alkaline solution and many

organic solvents. The proportion of bixin in annatto varies considerably which usually 3-5%.

CH3 CH3

HOOC--- ----CH=CH—C=CH- --CH=CH-- --CH=C—CH=CH-- ----COOCH3

Figure 2. Structure of Bixin

Flame of Forest (Flowers):

Flowers yield a brilliant but very fugitive yellow colouring matter. The addition of alum,

lime or an alkali deepens the colour to orange and also makes it less fugitive. The sap of the

flowers contains a colouring principle - Butein - C15 H12 O5.

Figure 3. Structure of Butein

HO OH

OH

O

OH

27

Flame of Forest (Gum):

Along with flowers gum is also used for dyeing. A red juice exudes from the natural cracks and

artificial incisions in the bark, and it hardens into vitreous, ruby – red gum known as Butea gum.

It contains a large proportion of tannin and mucilaginous material.

It gives yellow to bright red tones on silk and yellow to rusty orange tones on cotton. They are

fast to all serviceable conditions. These colours can be safely used on textiles that are designed

for all kinds of enduses including apparels

Galllic acid Tannic acid

Figure 4. Structure of Butea gum components

Marigold:

Marigold is a popular flowering tree throughout the world. Flower colour varies from

lemon yellow to yellow, golden yellow or orange and exhibit a spectacular blaze of colour in full

bloom. The marigold flowers of Tagetes erecta variety mainly contain the flavonol quercetagetol

which is a derivate of quercetol. It is accompanied by two of its glucosides and luteine (a

carotenoid). It dyes silk in variety of deep and fast colours with different mordants. Querecetol is

the colouring principle in marigold.

The term flavonoid embraces all the compounds whose structure is based on that of flavone.

Flavone consists of two benzene rings (A and B) joined together by pyrone ring. The different

compounds when attached to this structure give pale yellow colours quite light but very fast to

light and washing.

Figure 5. Structure of Xnthophyll

Marigold flowers produce khaki greens, greys, light greens, khaki greens and browns on cotton,

silk and wool. The colours exhibit good to excellent fastness properties. The dye is suitable for

cotton, silk and wool that are subjected to various types of end uses.

28

Eucalyptus Bark:

The eucalyptus bark is shed by the tree in every summer and can be easily procured without

disturbing the conditions of the tree. The bark of Eucalyptus contains two colouring substances

Quercetin and Rhamnetin. The bark gives brown and russet shades on textiles

Figure 6. Structure of quercetin

Arjun Bark:

The bark contains a coloured pigment, which is extracted and used for dyeing of textiles.

It gives very fast shades that range from light to dark browns, pinkish browns and greys on

cotton, silk and wool. These colours can be safely used on textiles that are designed for all kinds

of end uses including apparels

Figure 7. Chemical structure of

colouring components in Arjun bark –

Arjunic acid, Arjunoside, Terminic acid

29

Sappan wood:

The important part of this plant is the heartwood that contains water-soluble dyes such as

Brazilian, prostasappanins, sappan chalcone and haematoxylin .the main extractable component

called sappanin, amounts to 20% of the ovendry weight of the heartwood. The main dye

component of sappan is Brazilian, also present in brazilwood. Brazilin is a weakly coloured

product which easily oxidizes to give deep red pigment brazelien. The colours obtained on

textiles range from pink to dark reds.

Figure 8. Chemical structure of colouring components in Sappan wood

Indigo

The genus Indigofera L. is a member of the family Leguminosea-Papilionoideae among the

dicotyledons. The colouring substance is Indigotin which is insoluble in water, so to dye textiles

it must be reduced to a soluble form (colourless ‘leuco’ indigo or indigo-white) by a

fermentation process under alkaline conditions or by a chemical reducing agent such as sodium

hydrosulphite. Subsequent oxidation by airing of the textile after its removal from the dye bath,

results in the regeneration of indigotin and fixation of the blue colour onto the textile

Figure 9. Chemical structure of indigoid

30

Myrobalan:

Myrobalan pods are mostly used for pre treatment of cotton for better fixation of dye onto the

fabric. These pods consists of tannins which serve as mordant on cotton fabric. The myrobalan

powder is soaked in water for 8 hours as per material to liquor ratio of 1:20. The solution is

filtered and the fabric is soaked in the myrobalan solution for 2 hours. This makes fabric appear

light yellow in colour when it is soaked in the solution. After removing the fabric is dried under

sunlight.

Natural Dye shades on Cotton:

By following the standard procedures optimized, around 7500 shades were produced on cotton

using the selected sources. The colour strength (k/s values) of the shades along with L, a, b

values are being recorded..

Bixa Orellana:

Annato seeds produce bright orange to rusty orange and brownish orange colours. These

colours can be safely used on textiles that are designed for all kinds of end uses including

apparels.

Table 9. Colourfastness grades of Bixa orellana dye on cotton

The colourfastness of Bixin pigment on cotton showed satisfactory results (table 9). The

sunlight fastness ranged from very fair to good. The colour change due to washing was good but

with noticeable colour staining. The resistance to colour change due to dry rubbing was found to

be good to very good but with slight staining on cotton and silk. Fair to good fatness was found

to wet rubbing but with noticeable staining. The perspiration fastness was found to be very fair to

good with slight staining. Little reduced resistance to staining due to alkali perspiration was

observed. Annatto is originally a fugitive dye on textiles, but due to technology generated in this

project, it was possible to produce orange colours with satisfactory fastness. Alum mordanted

orange shades were found to have better fastness (Fig 10).

Mordant

Sunlight

Rubbing

Dry

Rubbing -

Wet Washing Acidic perspiration Alkali perspiration

CC CC CS CC CS CC CS-C CS-S CC CS-C CS-S CC CS-C

CS-

S

Alum 10% (pre) 5 3 3 4 3 3 3 3 4 3 3 3 2 2

FeSo4 2%

(post) 4 4 3 3 3 3 2 3 3 3 3 3 2 3

SnCl4 4%

(simul) 5 4 3 2 3 3 3 2 3 3 3 3 2 2

TA 15% simul 5 4 3 3 2 3 2 2 3 3 3 3 3 2

31

Figure 10. Colourfastness of Bixa orellana dye on cotton

Arjuna terminalia bark

Table 10. Colourfastness grades of Arjuna terminalia bark dye on cotton

The brown shades produced using arjun bark dye were found to be very good to excellent

for most of its serviceable conditions (table 10). The sunlight fastness was found to be very fair

to good. The wash fastness was recorded as very good to excellent without noticeable staining.

The rub fastness both in dry and wet condition was observed to be very good to excellent for all

mordanted samples except for tartaric acid mordanted sample without much staining (Fig 11).

The perspiration fastness both in acidic and alkaline conditions was noted as very good to

excellent. The colour fastness properties of arjun bark dye have improved and almost on par with

the synthetic dyes.

Figure 11. Colourfastness of Arjuna terminalia bark dye on cotton

Mordant

Sunlight

Rubbing

Dry

Rubbing -


CC CC CS CC CS CC CS-C CS-S CC CS-C CS-S CC CS-C

CS-

S

Alum 10% (pre) 5 4 4 4 5 5 4 4 5 4 4 4 5 4

FeSo4 2% (post) 5 5 4 5 4 4 5 4 4 5 5 4 5 5

SnCl4 4% (simul) 5 4 5 4 5 4 4 5 5 5 4 4 4 5

TA 15% simul 4 4 4 3 4 3 5 5 4 5 5 5 5 4

32

Butea monosperma flower

Table 11. Colourfastness grades of Butea monosperma flower dye on cotton

Mordant

Sunlight

Rubbing

Dry

Rubbing


CC CC CS CC CS CC CS-C CS-S CC CS-C CS-S CC CS-C CS-S

Alum 15%

(post) 5 5 3 3 4 4 5 5 5 5 4 4 4 3

FeSo4 2%

(simul) 5 5 4 5 4 4 5 5 4 5 4 3 4 5

SnCl4 4%

(pre) 4 5 4 3 4 5 5 5 4 3 4 3 4 4

TA 5%

(simul) 4 5 4 3 4 4 5 4 3 3 4 4 3 4

The fatness grades of Butea flower dye are given in table 11. The sunlight fastness was found to

be very fair to good. Excellent fastness to colour change was observed after dry rubbing with

slight staining. Slightly reduced fastness was observed in wet rubbing. The wash fastness was

very good to excellent without much staining. The perspiration fastness ranged from good to

excellent with little staining in both acidic and alkaline conditions (Fig 12).

Figure 12. Colourfastness of Butea monosperma flower dye on cotton

33

Butea monosperma gum

Table 12. Colourfastness grades of Butea monosperma gum dye on cotton

Mordant

Sunlight

Rubbing

Dry

Rubbing

Wet Washing

Acidic

perspiration

Alkali

perspiration

CC CC CS CC CS CC

CS-

C

CS-

S CC

CS-

C

CS-

S CC

CS-

C

CS-

S

Alum

20%

(simul) 4 4 5 4 4 4 5 5 4 5 4 5 4 5

FeSo4

1% (pre) 4 4 5 4 5 4 5 4 4 5 4 4 5 4

SnCl4

4% (post) 4 4 5 4 5 4 5 4 4 5 5 4 5 4

TA 5%

(post) 4 4 5 4 4 5 5 4 4 5 4 4 5 5

As evident from the table 12, the dark maroon shades obtained with butea gum were found to

have good to excellent fatness to most of the serviceable condition (Fig 13). The sunlight

fastness was very fair. The wash fastness was found to be very good to excellent without

staining. The rub fastness in both dry and wet condition was observed as very good to excellent

with very slight staining. The perspiration fastness was found to be very good to excellent to

both acidic and alkaline fastness.

Figure 13. Colourfastness of Butea monosperma gum dye on cotton

34

Eucalyptus globules Bark

Table 13. Colourfastness grades of Eucalyptus globules bark dye on cotton

Mordant Sunlight

Rubbing

Washing

Perspiration

Dry Wet Acidic Alkali

CC CS CC CS CC CS CC CS CC CS

C S C S C S

Alum 15%

(simul) 5 5 5 4 4 4 5 4 5 5 4 4 5 4

FeSo4 2% (pre) 4 4 4 4 5 4 5 4 4 5 5 4 5 4

SnCl4 4% (post) 5 5 5 4 5 4 5 5 5 5 4 4 5 5

TA 5% (post) 4 5 5 3 4 4 5 5 4 5 5 5 4

The colourfastness grades of eucalyptus bark dye is furnished in table 13. The sunlight fastness

was good in case of alum and stannous chloride mordanted samples. The sunlight fastness for

other samples was found to be very fair. Good to very good wash fastness (colour change) was

observed. The resistance against staining was also found to be excellent on cotton and very good

to excellent on silk. The resistance to dry rubbing was also found to be good to excellent. Slight

colour change and staining was observed with wet rubbing. The colour was resistant to both

acidic and alkaline perspiration with good to excellent rating (Fig 14).

Figure 14. Colourfastness of Eucalyptus globules bark dye on cotton

35

Eclipta prostrata

Table 14. Colourfastness grades of Eclipta prostrata dye on cotton

Mordant

Sunlight

Rubbing

Dry

Rubbing



Alum 10%

(pre) 5 5 5 4 4 4 5 5 4 5 5 5 4 4

FeSo4 1%

(post) 4 4 5 4 5 4 5 5 4 5 5 4 5 5

SnCl4 6%

(post) 5 5 5 5 4 4 5 4 4 4 4 4 4 5

TA 15%

(post) 5 4 5 4 4 4 5 4 4 5 4 4 5 5

The light green shades obtained with Eclipta prostrata was found to be fast for most of the

serviceable conditions such as sunlight, washing, rubbing and perspiration (Table 14 & Fig 15).

Very fair to good sunlight fastness was observed. Slight colour change with excellent resistance

to staining was observed to washing. Good to excellent resistance to rubbing was exhibited by all

dyed samples. Good to excellent fastness to both acidic and alkaline perspiration was found.

Figure 15. Colourfastness of Eclipta prostrata dye on cotton

36

Tagetus erecta (Marigold red)

Table 15. Colourfastness grades of Tagetus erecta red dye on cotton

Mordant Sunlight

Rubbing

Washing

Perspiration



C S C S C S

Alum 15% (pre) 6 4 4 4 4 4 5 4 3 4 4 5 4 4

FeSo4 3%

(simul) 4 4 4 5 4 4 5 5 4 5 4 3 4 5

SnCl4 4% (post) 4 4 4 4 4 4 5 5 3 4 5 4 4 5

TA 15% (post) 5 4 4 3 4 4 5 5 4 5 5 4 5 5

The colourfastness grades of the marigold dye on cotton is furnished in table 15. Very fair to

very good fastness was observed to sunlight. Alum mordanted sample showed high resistance to

sunlight (Fig 16). Good to excellent fastness was observed to washing and rubbing. The colour

was slightly sensitive to acidic perspiration but good to excellent resistance to staining was

observed to perspiration.

Figure 16. Colourfastness of Marigold red dye on cotton

37

Tagetus erecta (Marigold yellow)

Table 16. Colourfastness grades of Tagetus erecta yellow dye on cotton

Mordant Sunlight

Rubbing

Washing

Perspiration



C S C S C S

Alum 10%

(post) 5 4 4 4 4 4 5 5 4 5 4 4 5 5

FeSo4 2%

(pre) 5 4 5 5 5 4 4 5 4 5 5 5 5 4

SnCl4 4%

(post) 5 4 5 4 5 4 5 5 4 5 5 4 5 5

TA 20%

(simul) 6 4 5 4 5 4 5 4 4 4 5 4 5 4

The marigold yellow dye showed similar fastness to Marigold red dye as both constitute

xanthophyll as evident from table16. Good to very good sunlight fastness was observed. Good to

excellent resistance to rubbing, washing and perspiration were found making the colour almost

permanent on the cotton fabric (Fig 17).

Figure 17. Colourfastness of Marigold yellow dye on cotton

38

Lac Dye:

Table 17.Colourfastness grades of lac dye on cotton

Source

sunlight

Rubbing

Dry

Rubbing -

wet washing Acidic perspiration Alkali perspiration


Lac - 0.25% 5 4 4 3 3 4 5 5 4 5 4 3 4 4

Lac - 0.50% 6 4 4 3 3 4 5 5 4 5 5 3 4 5

Lac - 1% 5 4 4 3 3 3 5 5 3 4 4 4 4 4

The colourfastness properties of alum mordanted lac dye cotton is presented in table 17. The

sunlight fastness was very good in 0.5% lac followed by good fastness in other samples. In case

of rubbing the resistance to colour change was graded as very good with slight staining. The

colour showed good to excellent resistance to acidic perspiration. Slightly decreased fastness was

observed in alkali perspiration. The lac dyed with alum mordanted samples had good

colourfastness properties sunlight, washing, rubbing and perspiration (Fig 18).

Figure 18. Colourfastness of Lac dye on cotton

39

Colourfastness of Natural dye shades on Silk:

Natural dyes on silk produce very bright shades due to more substantivity of these dyes to

protein fibres. Around 3500 shades were produced and their colourfastness was assessed to all

serviceable conditions such as sunlight, washing, rubbing and perspiration. The following tables

and graphs represent the colourfastness of silk fabrics mordanted with different mordants and

dyed with selected natural dyes:

Table 18. Colourfastness grades of Bixa orellana dye on silk

Mordant

sunlight

Rubbing

Dry

Rubbing



Alum 10%

(pre) 7 4 5 5 4 3 3 4 4 3 3 4 3 3

FeSo4 1%

(post) 5 4 5 5 4 4 3 4 4 3 3 4 4 3

SnCl4 4%

(simul) 6 3 4 3 4 3 4 4 4 3 3 4 3 3

TA 5%

(post) 8 3 4 3 4 3 3 4 4 3 3 4 3 3

Bright orange colour shades were produced on silk with annatto seeds. The colour fastness

grades of annatto is given in table 18, and fig 19. Excellent to outstanding fastness was observed

in sunlight. Among the mordants, tartaric acid mordanted silk showed good fastness properties to

sunlight followed by alum and other mordants. Both dry and wet rub fastness was found to be

very good to excellent. The samples had good resistance against colour change due to both acidic

and alkaline perspiration and graded as good. The resistance to colour staining was rated as good

in acidic and alkali perspiration.

Figure 19. Colourfastness of Bixa orellana dye on silk

40

Arjuna terminialia

Table 19. Colourfastness grades of Arjuna terminalia bark dye on silk

Mordant

sunlight

Rubbing

Dry

Rubbing -

wet Washing Acidic perspiration Alkali perspiration


Alum 10%

(pre) 6 5 4 5 4 4 5 5 4 5 5 4 5 5

FeSo4 1%

(post) 8 4 4 4 3 4 5 5 5 4 4 3 3 4

SnCl4 4%

(simul) 6 5 4 5 4 5 5 5 5 4 5 4 5 4

TA 5%

(post) 6 4 5 5 4 5 5 5 5 4 4 3 4 5

Different brown shades were obtained with arjun bark dye on silk. The colourfastness properties

of arjun bark dye is given table 19. The Feso4 mordanted sample showed outstanding sunlight

resistance than other mordanted samples which were rated as very good (Fig 20). Very good to

excellent fastness was found in dry and wet rubbing. The wash fastness was observed as

excellent and good resistance against colour change and colour stain. All the mordanted samples

had very good to excellent fastness rating to perspiration in acid condition. Good to very good

fastness was observed with alkali perspiration.

Figure 20. Colourfastness of Arjuna terminalia bark dye on silk

41


Table 20. Colourfastness grades of Butea monosperma flower dye on silk

Silk dyed with Butea flower showed a range of beautiful yellow shades (table 20 & fig 21 ). The

sunlight fastness of the samples showed good to very good fastness. Slight colour change was

observed in rubbed samples with excellent resistance to colour staining. Very good to excellent

fastness was found in washing. The dyed sample had minimum colour change in washing. The

resistance to colour change due to perspiration was found to be very good to excellent in acidic

perspiration with slight staining. The fastness to alkali perspiration was also found to be good.

Figure 21. Colourfastness of Butea monosperma flower dye on silk

Mordant

sunlight

Rubbing

Dry

Rubbing



Alum 10%

(pre) 5 4 5 3 5 4 5 5 4 3 3 4 3 3

FeSo4 1%

(post) 6 4 5 4 5 4 4 5 4 4 5 4 3 4

SnCl4 4%

(simul) 5 4 5 5 4 4 4 5 5 3 4 4 4 3

TA 5%

(post) 5 4 5 5 5 4 4 5 5 3 4 3 3 4

42


Table 21. Colourfastness grades of Butea monosperma gum dye on silk

Dark maroon shades were obtained on silk dyed with butea gum (table 21). The sunlight fastness

was found to be good to excellent in alum and Feso4 mordanted sample than the other two where

the fastness is graded as very fair (Fig 22). Good to excellent wash fastness was observed

without any colour staining. The same trend was observed in acid and alkali perspiration. Butea

gum dyed samples showed excellent colour fastness to all serviceable conditions.

Figure 22. Colourfastness of Butea monosperma gum dye on silk

Mordant

sunlight

Rubbing

Dry

Rubbing -

wet Washing Acidic perspiration Alkali perspiration


Alum 10%

(pre) 7 4 4 5 4 4 5 5 4 5 5 4 5 5

FeSo4 1%

(post) 6 4 4 5 4 3 5 5 3 5 4 4 5 5

SnCl4 4%

(simul) 4 4 5 5 4 5 5 5 5 5 4 4 5 5

TA 5%

(post) 4 4 5 5 4 5 5 5 5 4 4 3 4 4

43

Eucalyptus globules bark

Table 22. Colourfastness grades of Eucalyptus globules bark dye on silk

Light brown to pinkish brown shades were obtained on silk dyed with eucalyptus bark. These

shades showed outstanding grades to sunlight. All the mordanted samples showed higher

resistance to sunlight. Rubbing and wash fastness was very good to excellent. The resistance to

colour change due to alkali perspiration was good but with slight staining. Improved fastness to

acid perspiration was observed (Fig 23 ).

Figure 23. Colourfastness of Eucalyptus globulus bark dye on silk

Mordant

Sunlight

Rubbing

Dry

Rubbing -



Alum 10%

(pre) 7 4 5 4 4 4 5 5 4 5 5 3 4 4

FeSo4 1%

(post) 8 3 4 5 4 4 3 4 4 5 4 3 4 4

SnCl4 4%

(simul) 8 4 5 4 4 3 5 5 5 4 4 4 3 4

TA 5%

(post) 8 3 4 3 4 3 5 4 3 4 5 3 4 4

44

Eclipta Prostrata

Table 23. Colourfastness grades of Eclipta Prostrata dye on silk

Silk was dyed to light green but bright shades with Eclipta prostrate dye. Very good to excellent

fastness grades were found in sunlight. Among the mordant Feso4 showed higher resistance to

sunlight than other three mordants. Good to very good resistance was found to colour change due

to rubbing. The dry rubbed samples showed excellent resistance against colour staining. In wet

rubbing the resistance was rated as good to very good. Washing fastness was very good to

excellent in resistance to colour change and colour stain. Good to very good fastness to both

acidic and alkali perspiration was found (table 23 & Fig 24).

Figure 24. Colourfastness of Eclipta prostrata dye on silk

Mordant

sunlight

Rubbing

Dry

Rubbing



Alum 10%

(pre) 5 4 5 4 3 4 5 5 4 5 4 3 4 4

FeSo4 1%

(post) 7 3 5 3 3 4 5 5 3 3 3 3 4 4

SnCl4 4%

(simul) 6 4 5 3 4 4 4 5 4 3 3 4 3 3

TA 5%

(post) 5 5 5 4 5 4 4 5 5 3 4 4 3 3

45

Tagetus erecta (Marigold red)

Table 24. Colourfastness grades of Tegetus erecta red dye on silk

Mordant

Sunlight

Rubbing

Dry

Rubbing



Alum 10%

(pre) 5 4 5 4 3 4 5 5 4 5 4 3 4 4

FeSo4 1%

(post) 7 3 5 3 3 4 5 5 3 3 3 3 4 4

SnCl4 4%

(simul) 6 4 5 3 4 4 4 5 4 3 3 4 3 3

TA 5%

(post) 5 5 5 4 5 4 4 5 5 3 4 4 3 3

The yellow shades obtained on dyeing silk with marigold red flower dyes were assessed for their

colourfastness to various serviceable conditions and the data is furnished in table 24 and graph

25. The sunlight fastness of Feso4 mordanted sample was found to be excellent. Other samples

were graded as good to very good. The rub fastness was found to be good to very good in terms

of resistance to colour change and colour staining in both dry and wet condition. Colour staining

was observed in wet rubbing and graded as good to very good resistance. But in case of dry

rubbing no staining was observed. The wash fastness was found to be very good to excellent.

The perspiration fastness was rated as good to very good. Decreased resistance to colour change

was observed in alkali perspiration than acidic perspiration.

Figure 25. Colourfastness of Tegetus erecta red dye on silk

46


Table 25. Colourfastness grades of Tegetus erecta yellow dye on silk

Mordant

sunlight

Rubbing

Dry

Rubbing



Alum 10%

(pre) 5 4 5 4 5 3 5 5 4 5 5 3 5 4

FeSo4 1%

(post) 7 4 5 5 4 4 5 5 4 5 4 4 3 4

SnCl4 4%

(simul) 7 4 4 5 3 3 5 5 3 5 4 3 4 5

TA 5%

(post) 6 4 5 4 4 3 4 4 3 4 3 3 4 3

Yellow to mustard shades were produced on silk dyed with marigold mordanted with various

mordants as indicated in table 25 . The sunlight fastness of the FeSo4 and SnCl4 mordanted

samples showed excellent fastness grades. The rub fastness grades of the samples were also

found to be very good to excellent in both dry and wet conditions. The resistance to colour

change of washed samples was observed to be good to very good without any staining. The

resistance against colour change was found in samples exposed to acidic and alkali perspiration.

But good to excellent resistance to colour staining was observed in acidic and alkali perspiration

(Fig 26).

Figure 26. Colourfastness of Tegetus erecta yellow dye on silk

47

Lac Dye

Table 26. Colourfastness grades of lac dye on silk

Source

Sunlight

Rubbing

Dry

Rubbing



Lac - 0.25% 6 4 4 4 5 3 4 5 4 5 5 3 3 4

Lac - 0.50% 6 4 4 4 3 3 5 5 4 5 4 3 4 4

Lac - 1% 4 4 4 3 4 4 5 5 3 4 4 4 4 3

The fastness properties of alum mordanted lac dyed silk is furnished in table 26 & fig 27. The

sunlight fastness was found to be very good. Good to very good fastness to dry and wet rubbing

was observed. It has good resistance to colour change due to washing but with very slight or

without staining. The resistance against acidic perspiration was very good to excellent. Slightly

reduced fastness was observed with alkali perspiration. For producing light to dark pink shades

lac dye can be used without any problem as the colours are very fast.

Figure 27. Colourfastness of Lac dye on silk

Economic benefit of the Technology over the existing synthetic dyeing:

Table 27. Cost benefit of dyeing with natural dyes

Type of dye

on cotton

Cost of dyeing

Yarn per Kg (Rs)

Cost of the final product

(Rs)

Monitory benefit

Rs

Synthetic dyed 350 4 Sarees- 800X4 = 3200 2150

Natural dyed 500 Saree- 1300 X 4 = 5200

48

Figure 28. Cost benefit of dyeing with natural dyes

Impact

The synthetic dye users are facing pollution problems as Pollution Control Board has issued

notices to the synthetic dyeing units to close down. The effluents of the natural dyes are

harmless, non-toxic, ecological friendly. At present there are no regulations separately for

effluents from natural dye units. The adoption of this technology solves the pollution problems

and the dyers can continue their dyeing practices.

Beneficiaries

Dye source collectors (tribals)

Farmers

Dyers, Artisans (weavers, painters, printers)- Enhances the income of the weaver/dyer by

40% to 50% ( From Rs. 4000 to Rs. 6000/-)

SHGs

Marketing Personnel

Consumers

Benefits

Scope for more designs and variety

Increased demand for natural dyed products

Beneficial product cost by 30-40%

Increased market linkages

Branding of products

Health safe guarding

Increased demand for natural dyed yarn

0

200

400

600

800

1000

1200

1400

Marketing

Sale Price (Saree)

Synthetic Dyes

Natural Dyes

0

100

200

300

400

500

Dyeing

Production Cost

Synthetic Dyes

Natural Dyes

49

Dyeing Banana fibre with Natural Dyes:

Banana fibre was dyed using selected natural dyes for the purpose of making fibre handicrafts.

Around 150 shades were developed adopting the procedures already optimized for cellulosic

textiles- cotton. Very bright silky shades were obtained on banana fibre. The fibre became soft

after dyeing and became pliable for weaving. The colourfastness of the shades obtained are on

par with natural dye shades on cotton.

Antimicrobial Property of Natural dyes:

The inherent properties of textile fibers provide room for the growth of microorganism. Microbes

include a variety of micro organism like bacteria, fungi, algae and viruses stain the fabric and

destroy the performance properties of fabrics. Antimicrobial finish on fabrics can minimize the

transfer of microorganisms onto the wearer by creating physical barrier. It prevents the skin

diseases caused by the microorganisms. The various medicinal plants found in nature exhibit

excellent anti microbial properties.

Although, natural dyes are known for long for their colouring and medicinal applications, the

structure and protective properties have been recognized and established only in the recent past.

Many of the plants used for dye extraction are classified as medicinal, and some of these have

recently shown to possess remarkable antimicrobial activity. Several sources of plant dyes are

rich in napthaquinones auch as lawsone from henna, juglone from walnut and lapachol from

alkanet are reported to exhibit antibacterial and antifungal activities. Annatto extract exhibits

antimicrobial activity against strains of Clostridium perferingens and C. botulinum. The extracts

of the leaves and seeds of Bixa orellana showed a broad spectrum of antimicrobial activity (Irobi

et al., 1996; Castello et al., 2002; Fleischer et al., 2003) and exhibits antifungal activity (Freixa et

al., 1998) and bark exhibit antigonorrheal activity (Caceres et al., 1995). Many useful

phytoconstituents have been isolated from T. arjuna which included triterpenoids for

cardiovascular properties, tannins and flavonoids for its anticancer, antimicrobial properties and

so on. Ethanolic extracts of Butea possess antimicrobial potentials against both gram positive and

gram negative bacteria. Aqueous extract of the butea flower show significant anti-inflammation

activity. Butea gum is powerful astringent given internally for diarrhea and dysentery. The bark

is reported to possess astringent bitter, pungent, alternative aphrodisiac and anthelmintic

properties useful in tumors, bleeding piles and ulcers. Leaves also have astringent, tonic, diuretic

and aphrodisiac properties. They are also used to cure boils, pimples and tumors hemorrhoids

and piles.

A study was taken up to explore and demonstrate the antimicrobial activity of natural dyes. The

dyed textiles from different natural dye sources such as annatto, arjun bark, butea flower, butea

gum, Eclipta, eucalyptus marigold yellow and marigold red using different mordants such as

Alum, FeSo4 SnCl4, and Tartaric acid were analysed for their antimicrobial activity. The Annato,

50

Eucalyptus bark, Marigold red dyed samples showed good antimicrobial properties (zoi-2mm)

against E.Coli microorganism. All the sources showed different levels of Zone of inhibition

(zoi). Among all mordants, alum mordanted sample showed better antimicrobial properties than

other mordants.

Figure 28 A . Antimicrobial properties of Natural Dyes (Zone of Inhibition)

Eucalyptus bark (Tartaric acid)

Annato (Alum) Marigold red (Alum)

Annato (Tartaric acid)

51

Ultraviolet Protection Properties of Natural Dyes:

Ultraviolet light is found in Sun shorter than the visible light and longer than the X-rays in the range between 400nm to 10nm.

Although ultraviolet radiation is invisible to the human eye, most people are aware of the effect it has on the skin of fair-skinned

people. Normal human skin responds to exposure to small doses of this kind of radiation by increasing the amount of

protective melanin in the skin's outer layers; too much of this radiation in too short a period of time, however, results in cellular

damage from radiation burn. The harmful effects from exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation can be classified as acute or chronic. The

acute effects of UV-A and UV-B exposure are both short-lived and reversible. These effects include mainly sunburn (or erythema) and

tanning (or pigment darkening). The chronic effects of UV exposure can be much more serious, even life threatening, and include

premature aging of the skin, suppression of the immune system, damage to the eyes, and skin cancer. Natural fabrics are naturally UV

protective and provide resistance to the human skin. Thicker fabrics are known for providing better resistance than thinner fabrics.

Natural dyes are derived from nature and therefore, possess resistance to Ultraviolet rays of the Sun. This fact was established by

many natural dye scientists. But the effect of the fabric thickness has not been established by many. Therefore, a study has been taken

up to explore and demonstrate the effect of fabric thickness on the UV protection of natural dyes. Three fabrics of different

thicknesses were dyed with natural dyes and their geometrical properties and the colour strength graphs are also furnished in

Annexure IV.

Bixa Orellana dye

Table 28. Ultraviolet transmittance of Bixa Orellana dye on cotton fabrics

Mordant UPF UV-A UV-B

Thin Medium Thick Thin Medium Thick Thin Medium Thick

Control 0 0 10 42.86 % 34.08 % 6.93 % 42.89 % 34.84 % 7.02 %

Myrobalan 0 0 50 28.55 33.39 23.56 30.86 1.34 80.66 25.77 39.91 20.24 41.90 1.15 83.62

Alum 0 5 50 24.63 42.53 18.32 46.24 0.93 86.58 22.64 47.21 16.67 52.15 0.84 88.03

FeSo4 0 5 50 26.37 38.47 17.61 48.32 0.73 89.46 24.59 42.66 16.06 53.90 0.63 91.03

SnCl4 0 5 50 25.54 40.41 20.41 40.11 0.79 88.60 23.63 44.90 18.72 46.26 0.72 89.74

Tartaric acid 0 0 50 31.37 26.81 23.68 30.51 1.55 77.63 27.92 34.90 20.77 40.38 1.2 82.91

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Melanin

52

Annatto is a bright natural dye that has produced very bright orange shades on thin, medium and thick fabrics. The colour strength was

high with alum mordanted samples irrespective of the thickness of the fabric followed by tartaric acid mordanted cotton in case of thin

and medium fabrics and Sncl2 in case of thicker fabric (table 28 ). Generally it is known that the transmittance of Ultraviolet A rays

are less harmful than UV B rays. As evident from the above table, the natural dyed fabrics irrespective of its thickness are capable of

blocking the UV A and UV B rays substantially. UV-A rays were screened/ blocked from 26.81% to 42.53% over control in thin

fabrics, 30.52 to 48.33% in medium fabrics and 77.63% to 89.47% in thick fabrics. The per cent of blockage of these rays over the

control increased with the increase in the thickness of the fabrics. Similar trend was observed with UV-B rays which are more harmful

than UV-A rays. Around 34.9% to 47.21% blockage of UV-B rays over control in thin fabrics, 40.38% to 53.9% in medium fabrics

and 82..91% to 91.03% in thick fabrics. The UPF rating was maximum in all thick fabrics irrespective of the mordant used. The

results could be correlated with the colour strength of the natural dyed fabrics irrespective of the thickness. The UV protection

rendered by the annatto dyed fabrics is represented in graph 29. The tables are given in Annexure –IV B.

As per the study conducted by Katarzyna and Jakub (2008), it was reported that the thicker fabrics provided UV resistance when

compared to thin fabrics.

Figure 29. Ultraviolet protection capability of Bixa Orellana dye on cotton fabrics

53

Arjuna terminialia bark dye

Table 29. Ultraviolet transmittance of Arjuna terminalia bark dye on cotton fabrics

S.No Mordant Thin Medium Thick

K/S UPF T(UV-A)

%

T(UV-B)

%

K/S UPF T(UV-A)

%

T(UV B) % K/S UPF T(UV A)

%

T(UV B)

%

1 Control 0 0 42.86 42.89 0 0 34.08 34.84 0 10 6.93 7.02

2 Myrobalan 1.068 0 28.55 25.77 1.360 0 23.56 20.24 1.774 50+ 1.34 1.15

3 Alum 5.148 0 24.63 22.64 6.552 5 18.32 16.67 7.805 50+ 0.93 0.84

4 FeSo4 5.982 0 26.37 24.59 5.053 5 17.61 16.06 8.883 50+ 0.73 0.63

5 SnCl4 6.003 0 25.54 23.63 7.106 5 20.41 18.72 12.296 50+ 0.79 0.72

6 Tartaric

acid

1.872 0 31.37 27.92 2.189 0 23.68 20.77 2.398 50+ 1.55 1.20

Different types of brown shades were obtained with Arjun bark source and different mordants (table 29 ). The colour strength of thick

fabric with SnCl4 was found to be higher than other two thin and medium fabrics. Thin and thicker fabrics produced brighter shades

with SnCl4 followed by alum mordanted fabrics. The Ultraviolet Protection Factor was found to be higher and maximum in thicker

fabric but it was not found in medium and thin fabrics. Lower values of UV B percentage showed higher UV resistance. Around

26.8% to 42.5% blockage of UV A rays over control in thin fabrics, 30.5% to 48.3% in medium fabrics and 77.6% to 89.46% in thick

fabrics was observed and represented in Fig 30. In case of UV B rays the blockage over control was found to be 34.9% to 47.21% in

thin fabrics, 40.38% to 53.9% in medium fabrics and 82.91% to 91.03% in case of thick fabrics. UV A and UV B rays resistance was

higher in alum mordant than other mordants. All natural dyed thicker fabrics showed higher UPF than thin and medium fabrics.

Similar trend was observed by Capjack et al, 1994.

54

Figure 30. Ultraviolet protection capability of Arjuna terminalia bark dye on cotton fabrics


Table 30. Ultraviolet transmittance of Butea monosperma flower dye on cotton fabrics


K/S UPF T(UV A)

%

T(UV B)

%

K/S UPF T(UV A)

%

T(UV B)

%

K/S UPF T(UV A)

%

T(UV B)

%

1 Control 0 0 42.86 42.89 0 0 34.08 34.84 0 10 6.93 7.02

2 Myrobalan 1.068 0 28.55 25.77 1.360 0 23.56 20.24 1.774 50+ 1.34 1.15

3 Alum 2.002 0 33.89 31.63 2.802 0 29.09 27.01 3.145 50+ 1.45 1.22

4 FeSo4 1.916 0 33.44 30.93 2.297 0 26.04 24.08 3.797 50+ 1.29 1.14

5 SnCl4 2.582 0 32.14 29.72 1.814 0 25.86 23.62 2.576 50+ 1.38 1.10

6 Tartaric acid 1.241 0 36.24 33.88 1.443 0 25.83 24.07 1.867 35 2.94 2.39

55

The colour strength of the thicker fabric was found to be higher with FeSo4 mordant (table 30). The butea flower gave different shades

of yellow orange with various mordants. The colour strength of medium, thick fabric was found to be high with FeSo4 followed by

alum mordant. Higher colour strength showed higher UPF rating in case of thicker fabric. The transmittance of UV B rays was

blocked with thicker fabric at higher percentage than other thin and medium fabric. UV B resistance was good with alum mordanted

thin and medium fabric. . Around 15.45% to 33.39% blockage of the UV-A rays over control was observed in thin fabrics followed by

14.64% to 30.87% blockage in medium fabrics and 57.58% to 81.39% in thick fabrics. In case of UV-B rays 20.0% to 39.92%

blockage over control in thin fabric, 22.47.% to 41.91% blockage in medium fabric and 65.95% to 84.33% in thick fabrics was

observed as indicated in fig 31. The UPF was excellent (maximum) in all mordanted and natural dyed thick fabrics. The K/S value of

the dyed sample in this case seemed to have no influence on the UV protection factor of the sample because lower K/S value showed

higher UV protection in case of thicker fabrics. Similar results were found by Deepthi et al 2005 reported that all the dyed samples

offer good to excellent UV protection from UV radiation compared to undyed cotton. Even though the shade obtained in most cases is

pale as indicated by a low K/S value still the protection if offer excellent. No correlation could be established between the depth of the

shade and UV protection provided by the dyed fabric. It appears that it is the chemistry of the dye which determines its light

absorption behaviour and depth of the shade.

Figure 31. Ultraviolet protection capability of Butea monosperma flower dye on cotton fabrics

56


Table 31. Ultraviolet transmittance of Butea monosperma gum dye on cotton fabrics


K/S UPF T(UV A)

%

T(UV B)

%

K/S UPF T(UV A)

%

T(UV B)

%

K/S UPF T(UV A)

%

T(UV B)

%

1 Control 0 0 42.86 42.89 0 0 34.08 34.84 0 10 6.93 7.02

2 Myrobalan 1.068 0 28.55 25.77 1.360 0 23.56 20.24 1.774 50+ 1.34 1.15

3 Alum 1.860 0 32.54 29.29 2.112 5 18.99 16.60 2.270 50+ 2.44 1.86

4 FeSo4 5.335 0 26.68 24.99 6.541 5 18.75 17.26 6.181 50+ 1.01 0.89

5 SnCl4 1.431 0 29.48 26.03 3.439 5 20.57 17.74 3.752 50+ 1.57 1.25

6 Tartaric acid 1.985 0 31.64 28.45 1.906 0 23.44 20.67 2.671 50+ 1.51 1.13

Butea gum provides brown shades of the different cotton fabrics. The type and depth of the shade differ based on the mordant used.

Higher colour strength was found in thicker fabric dyed with FeSo4 mordant followed SnCl4 and the same trend seen in medium

weight fabric (table 31). The thin fabric produces higher K/S value with FeSo4 followed tartaric acid. The mordant of FeSo4 gives

higher K/S value of all the three fabric thin, medium and heavy fabrics. The ultraviolet protection factor rating was found to be

excellent rating in case of the thicker fabric than other thin medium fabric. UV B rays resistance was increased at different levels than

control based on the mordant used. Among all mordants FeSo4 had given good UVB rays resistance in all fabrics than other

mordants. Around 26.17% to 37.75% blockage of UV A rays in thin fabrics over control, 30.86 to 44.98% in medium fabrics and

77.34% to 85.42% in thick fabrics was observed. The blockage of UV B rays over control was 31.7% to 41.73% in case of thin

fabrics, 40.67 to 52.35% in medium fabrics and 73.5% to 87.32% in thick fabrics as seen in the Fig 32. No relationship could however

be established between the depth of the shade (K/S) and UV protection provided by the dyed fabric. It is mostly likely to the chemical

structure of the dye, type of mordant fabric thickness decides the UV protection. The UPF rating was found to be higher in all the dyed

thicker fabric with all mordants.

57

Figure 32. Ultraviolet protection capability of Butea monosperma gum dye on cotton fabrics

Eclipta Prostrata dye

Table 32. Ultraviolet transmittance of Eclipta prostrata dye on cotton fabrics


K/S UPF T(UV A)

%

T(UV B)

%

K/S UPF T(UV A)

%

T(UV B)

%

K/S UPF T(UV A)

%

T(UV B)

%

1 Control 0 0 42.86 42.89 0 0 34.08 34.84 0 10 6.93 7.02

2 Myrobalan 1.068 0 28.55 25.77 1.360 0 23.56 20.24 1.774 50+ 1.34 1.15

3 Alum 4.224 0 24.92 23.10 6.239 5 20.84 19.48 6.001 50+ 0.81 0.75

4 FeSo4 1.689 0 25.64 23.66 1.762 5 21.30 19.65 2.523 50+ 1.15 1.02

5 SnCl4 2.666 0 30.72 28.99 2.805 0 25.20 23.73 4.057 50+ 1.45 1.31

6 Tartaric acid 4.254 0 32.15 30.09 5.487 0 22.09 20.63 5.042 50+ 1.31 1.03

58

Different brown shades were obtained with different mordants. Higher K/S values were found in thicker fabric than other thin and

medium fabric. The colour strength of the samples was found to be higher in case of alum mordanted samples followed by tartaric

acid. Lower colour strength was found in FeSo4 mordanted samples (table 32 ). The UPF rating of the thicker fabric with all mordants

showed higher values resulted excellent ultraviolet protection. The UV B resistance percentages was more in alum mordanted samples

showing higher resistance of UV B rays which are harmful to human beings. Around 24.98% to 41.85% reduced transmittance of UV

A rays was observed in thin fabrics over the control, 26.0 to 38.85% in medium fabrics and 79.0% to 88.31% in thick fabrics. The UV

B rays were blocked by 29.84% to 46.14% in Eclipta dyed thin fabrics over the control, 31.88% to 44.08% in medium fabrics and

81.33% to 89.31% in thick fabrics (Fig 33). The percentage of UV B rays resistance increased with increasing the weight and

thickness of the fabric. Among all the mordants alum facilitated higher UV B rays filtration which made the fabric more resistance

towards ultraviolet rays.

Figure 33. Ultraviolet protection capability of Eclipta prostrata dye on cotton fabrics

59

Eucalyptus globules Bark dye

Table 33. Ultraviolet transmittance of Eucalyptus globules bark dye on cotton fabrics


K/S UPF T(UV A)

%

T(UV B)

%

K/S UPF T(UV A)

%

T(UV B)

%

K/S UPF T(UV A)

%

T(UV B)

%

1 Control 0 0 42.86 42.89 0 0 34.08 34.84 0 10 6.93 7.02

2 Myrobalan 1.068 0 28.55 25.77 1.360 0 23.56 20.24 1.774 50+ 1.34 1.15

3 Alum 6.707 0 23.16 21.41 6.515 5 19.84 18.15 5.968 50+ 1.63 1.44

4 FeSo4 3.234 0 30.53 28.17 3.019 0 23.14 20.98 6.098 50+ 1.56 1.29

5 SnCl4 3.274 0 30.73 26.58 2.705 0 30.37 26.34 3.357 50+ 0.92 0.68

6 Tartaric acid 1.854 0 33.33 30.15 1.990 0 23.67 21.03 2.117 50+ 2.06 1.54

The light brown shades obtained by using different mordants. The colour strength of the medium and thin fabric was found to be

higher with alum mordants. Alum and FeSo4 mordants produce bright shades both medium and thick fabric. Thin fabric gives bright

shades with alum and SnCl4. The depth of the shade varied based on the mordant used. The UPF values are found to be higher in thick

fabric with all mordants. The thin and medium fabric showed lower UPF rating. It was observed that the blockage of UV A rays over

control was around 22.23% to 45.96% in thin fabrics, 10.88 to 41.78% in medium fabrics and 70.27% to 86.72% in thick fabrics. The

resistance to allow UV B rays over control increased from 29.7% to 50.08% in thin fabrics, 24.39to 47.905% in medium fabrics and

79.48% to 90.3% in thick fabrics (Fig 34). Alum mordant provided higher UV A and UV B resistance to thin and medium fabrics. The

thicker dyed fabric mordanted with SnCl4 given UV B resistance. The UPF rating is generally depend upon the thickness of the

material and its mordants. The medium fabric UPF rating is 5 not come under the standard rating. The K/S values and UPF rating was

mainly based on the type of fabric, dye and mordant used.

60

Figure 34. Ultraviolet protection capability of Eucalyptus globulus dye on cotton fabrics

Tagetus erecta (Marigold Red)

Table 34. Ultraviolet transmittance of Tagetus erecta red dye on cotton fabrics


K/S UPF T(UV A)

%

T(UV B)

%

K/S UPF T(UV A)

%

T(UV B)

%

K/S UPF T(UV A)

%

T(UV B)

%

1 Control 0 0 42.86 42.89 0 0 34.08 34.84 0 10 6.93 7.02

2 Myrobalan 1.068 0 28.55 25.77 1.36 0 23.56 20.24 1.774 50+ 1.34 1.15

3 Alum 3.672 0 28.43 26.24 4.455 0 22.79 20.93 5.150 50+ 1.26 1.08

4 FeSo4 5.435 0 26.43 24.44 4.672 5 21.13 19.25 6.037 50+ 1.37 1.19

5 SnCl4 12.065 0 29.17 27.14 6.004 0 22.47 20.85 8.552 50+ 1.49 1.34

6 Tartaric acid 2.164 0 30.06 27.40 2.179 0 23.79 21.54 3.793 50+ 1.95 1.83

61

Marigold dye gives bright yellow colour with different mordants. Highest colour strength was found in marigold thicker fabric

mordanted with SnCl4 followed FeSo4 and similar trend found in medium weight fabrics (table 34). The thinner fabrics produced

higher K/S values in FeSo4 mordanted fabrics followed alum. Among all the samples the thicker fabric produced brighter shades than

thin and medium fabric. The UPF rating was ranked higher in thicker fabric with all mordants but no rating was found in thin and

medium fabrics. The FeSo4 mordanted fabrics showed high UV B rays resistance. Around 29.86% to 38.33% of reduced transmittance

of UV A rays was noted in thin fabrics, 30.19% to 37.99% in medium fabrics and 71.86% to 81.81% in thick fabrics over the control.

Even in transmittance of UV B rays reduction was observed around 36.11% to 43.01% in thin fabrics, 19.25 to 21.54% in medium

fabrics and 73.93% to 84.61% in thick fabrics over the control fabrics which showed good protection, the fabrics are able to provide

after dyeing with marigold red dye (Fig 35). There is no relation existing between the K/S and UPF rating. The thicker fabric showed

higher K/S and UPF values and thereby good UV protection.

Figure 35. Ultraviolet protection capability of Tegetus erecta red dye on cotton fabrics

62


Table 35. Ultraviolet transmittance of Tagetus erecta yellow dye on cotton fabrics


K/S UPF T(UV A)

%

T(UV B)

%

K/S UPF T(UVA)

%

T(UV B) % K/S UPF T(UV A)

%

T(UV B)

%

1 Control 0 0 42.86 42.89 0 0 34.08 34.84 0 10 6.93 7.02

2 Myrobalan 1.068 0 28.55 25.77 1.360 0 23.56 20.24 1.774 50+ 1.34 1.15

3 Alum 3.601 0 29.85 27.64 4.664 0 22.51 20.91 5.569 50+ 1.28 1.15

4 FeSo4 11.791 0 23.45 22.65 14.571 5 15.61 14.88 17.635 50+ 0.76 0.71

5 SnCl4 4.643 0 25.26 23.89 11.532 5 17.63 16.46 13.008 50+ 0.99 0.92

6 Tartaric acid 1.743 0 33.59 30.88 1.735 0 25.90 23.48 1.998 50+ 2.25 1.83

The marigold flower is used for dyeing with different mordants to produce bright yellow colours. The K/S value was higher in thick

fabric mordanted with FeSo4 (table 35). Both mordants i.e. FeSo4 and SnCl4 gave higher K/S value than other mordants. The

ultraviolet protection factor rating was higher in thicker fabric. Around 24.07% to 37.75% decreased transmittance of UV A rays over

control was observed in thin fabrics, 30.86% to 44.98% in medium fabrics and 64.79% to 85.42% in thick fabrics. In case of UV B

rays 31.7% to 41.73% reduced transmittance over control was observed in thin fabrics, 40.67%to 52.35% in medium fabrics and

73.5% to 87.32% in thick fabrics (Fig 36). The fabrics of thin, medium, thick mordanted with FeSo4 showed higher UV B resistance

than other mordanted samples. Tartaric mordanted samples showed poor UV B rays resistance in all samples. The ultraviolet

resistance properties varied based on the type of mordants used. The UPF rating of medium fabric is 5 which are not considered as

valid UPF rating category. The fabric thickness and weight play a vital role in the UV resistance. The K/S value was higher in medium

and thin fabric but showed less UV resistance properties. The UPF rating was higher in the thicker fabric and also K/S values

increased with increased fabric thickness. The thicker fabric showed better results in terms of UV resistance and colour strength

property.

63

Figure 36. Ultraviolet protection capability of Tegetus erecta yellow dye on cotton fabrics

64

6. Innovations:

(Describe about the innovations and their impacts, one page each, please be clear about

innovation concept and describe only innovation(s) in brief)

Natural Dye Identification Kit: Natural dyed fabrics are being sold in the market at a

premium price much higher than synthetic dyed fabrics. Due to this counterfeit textiles

are appearing by which the consumers are facing problems. It is difficult to differentiate

natural dyed fabrics from synthetic dyed fabrics unless analysed by sophisticated testing

instruments like HPLC or HTLC, Infra-red spectroscopy etc. Even traders in this field

face such problems in identifying genuine natural dyed fabrics. A study was undertaken

to explore the possibility of identifying natural dye fabrics at the field level without

employing the advanced instruments. Fabrics were dyed with different natural dyes and

are subjected to treatment with solvents at different pH levels to observe the changes and

the possibility of using it as a precursor for identification. Experiments were conducted

with organic and inorganic solvents and different buffer solutions. Finally a simple

precursor for identification of natural dyed fabrics has been arrived at and patented.

S. No Innovation Description

1

Standardized Package of cultivation practices on indigo and marigold: The innovation

addressed in this activity is the use of organic manures and proper spacing for increasing

the pigment content

2 Post-harvest and storage practices of selected natural dye sources; The post harvest

practices for each natural dye resource are being developed based on the research study

3

I) Optimization of Mordanting and dyeing processes with selected natural

dye sources on cotton for production of fast and bright shades on cotton with natural dyes

II) Shade catalogue of natural dye shades on cotton

III) Natural dye Identification Kit

4

I)Optimized Mordanting and dyeing process for application of fast and bright natural dye

shades on silk

II) Shade catalogue of natural dye shades on silk

5

I) Optimized process of dyeing banana fibre with natural dye sources to obtain bright and

colour-fast shades

II) Shade catalogue of natural dye shades on banana

7 I) Bright and safe eco-powders for Holi at competitive price (15 colours) on commercial

basis

8 Soothing and pleasing eco-paints for spray painting of idols ready for production on

commercial basis

9 Established Natural dye Incubation centre first of its kind

10 Automated Natural dye powder manufacturing unit ready for use by the farmers and tribal

groups

65

Suitable washing method for Natural dyed fabrics: A small study was undertaken to

explore the right method for washing natural dyed fabrics using various natural and

commercial soaps and detergents. The washed samples were analysed for colourfastness

to washing and the detergent that had contributed for better retention of the colour on

fabric after washing was identified. The following data was recorded:

Table 36. Pigment content of natural dye on cotton fabrics after washing with

detergents

S. No Type of Detergent Pigment content after

Washing

1 Control 5.12

2 Reeta nut 4.86

3 Shikakai 4.52

4 Commercial detergent 1 4.24






10 Commercial shampoo based on reeta nut 5.09

11 Commercial shampoo based on shikakai 4.82

12 Commercial shampoo 1 4.72






Along with the natural detergents reeta nut and shikakai, 6 commercial detergents and 6

commercial shampoos were used for the study. Shampoo based on organic nature were

also used. It was found that commercially available reeta nut based shampoo was found to

give very good protection against fading due to washing to the natural dyed fabric.

Further this study will be extended to organically prepare the shampoo exclusively for

natural dyed fabrics.

Reproducibility of Natural dyes: One of the limitations of the natural dyes is difficulty

in reproducing the same shade batch wise. A study was carried out to explore the shade

matching batch wise adopting the standard procedures of mordanting and dyeing. The

following data clearly show that the problem with shade matching is being addressed to

certain extent:

Ex; Arjun bark dye

66

Table 37. Reproducibility of natural dyes

No. of

replications

Absorbance of the dye

liquor*

Washfastness grade

Colour Change

1 0.5462 4

2 0.5301 4.5

3 0.4923 4

4 0.5262 4.5

Dilution 100 times

The above data showed that it is possible to match the natural dye shades in two batches by

carefully controlling the different Mordanting and dyeing procedures.

Industrial Trials for Mechanisation of Dyeing Technology:

Industrial trials for dyeing cotton knitted fabric with natural dyes was undertaken at M/S

Perfect Knitters, Indrakiran village, Patancheru, Hyderabad. The dyeing vessel of 10 Kg

capacity was used for making trials. The following observations were made:

Uniformity of colour in the fabric being very good

Good absorption of the natural dye pigment

Good colourfastness

Reduced material to liquor ratio of 1:10, observing economy in use of water

However, the process nedds to be repeated several times to see the batchwise matching

and to economise the use of natural dye pigment.

Waste Utilization

• Bio-waste generated in the project is graded as excellent for uitlisation as bio fertilizer

• Size reduction of the plant material for dye extraction speeds up the biodegradability

of the plant material

• Bio waste can also be used as source of energy through briquette making

• Effluents can be safely used for irrigation of lands

Eco-Colours

Traditionally colours from nature were used for Holi. These coloured powders used

for playing were made from natural extracts of flowers, roots and herbs that were good for

skin. With the advent of synthetic dyes, the natural dyes have disappeared and fully replaced

by synthetic ones. In fact most of these synthetic dyes were meant for industrial use like

dyeing textiles and are not for application on humans.

Chemical colours are popular because they are conveniently available and cost less

than natural colors. However, manufacturers mix harmful chemicals in colours, putting the

consumers' health at risk – like skin rashes, asthma, bronchial problems. These are toxic and

67

can result in anything from skin allergies to cancer, eye irritation to blindness…. and much

more. Even the bases in which these chemical dyes are mixed are also highly toxic to human

health. When washed, they need more water and also enter into water and soil and cause even

more pollution.

With the growing awareness of dangers of using synthetic holi colours the market is now

growing for natural colours. By using these safe, natural colours we are not only saving our

skins but are also helping to save our environment to conserve our biodiversity. When these

colours are mixed with the soil and water they will not add toxicity to them, therefore it will

not harm the myriad life forms that live in the oil and water. By this we can bring back in

large quantities the diverse plants and trees that give us these colours. These colours are

highly safe even to children.

It replaces the present synthetic dye powder market by providing safe eco powders to the

humans. It will permanently solve the associated problems of health to the humans, aqua

bodies and avoid the toxicity of soil and water due to natural dyes.

Conservation of water is also a key factor as synthetic dyes take 5 to 6 times more water than

natural dyes for washing after playing holi.

Disadvantages of synthetic colours

Contain heavy metals

Non-biodegradable

Highly pollutant

No price advantage

Advantages of Eco-powders

Environmental friendly

Made from plant sources

Soft on Skin

Safe for children

Non-allergic

No toxic heavy metals

Easy to remove

Natural Sources used for preparing Holi colours:

Preparation of Eco-colours:

Collection of natural sources

Source Colour

Bixa orellana Orange

Tagetus erecta Yellow

Indigofera tinctora Blue

Indigofera tinctora + Tagetus erecta Green

Onosma echinoids Maroon

Butea monosperma Yellowish orange

Rubia cardifolia Pink

68

Making into paste by grinding

Mixing of eco-friendly medium in appropriate proportion to make into powder

Drying the powder under shade

The Eco-holi powders were standardized in terms of

Brightness of the colour

Sticking quality (on skin)

Fineness of the powder

Easily removable

Free from heavy metal content

Analysis of Eco- colour for Heavy metals:

Table 38. Heavy metal content in Eco-colours

It was found that (table 38) most of the heavy metal contents in the developed eco-colours are

below detectable levels. The others are almost within the safe range. As these colours are

developed in the context of the health hazards caused by synthetic dyes, the eco-colours are

very safe to the humans especially children.

The technology is highly valued for its advantages over other synthetic powders

existing in the country.

o Good scope for exports.

o Total eco-friendly process.

Sno. Name S.ID. no Cd

(mg/kg)

Cr

(mg/kg)

Pb

(mg/kg)

Hg

(mg/kg)

As

(mg/kg)

1. Brown colour QC-S-

2749

BDL 2.2 1.105 0.00111 0.0036

2. Green colour QC-S-

2750

BDL BDL BDL BDL BDL

3. Orange

colour

QC-S-

2751

BDL BDL BDL BDL BDL

4. Grey colour QC-S-

2752

BDL BDL BDL BDL BDL

5. Yellow

colour

QC-S-

2753

BDL BDL 1.04 BDL BDL

6. Blue colour QC-S-

2754

BDL 2.17 1.08 BDL BDL

7. Pink colour QC-S-

2755

BDL BDL BDL BDL BDL

69

o No need of effluent treatments.

o No need of government clearance.

o Market size is One crore per annum at present, which will enhance further.

o Consumers from all economic groups

Economics

The profit level in the technology of production of eco-powders was found to be high. At the

level of the producer such as a tribal or SHG the profit level was around 67% as indicated in

Fig 37. If one tonne is produced and sold, the producer would get Rs 1.0 lakh net profit.

On the other hand, two more companies are producing the eco-Holi colour which is at present

available in the market. The price difference is represented in fig 38. The marketing agency

would also get equal profit.

Figure 37. Economic benefit in production and marketing of eco-powders

Figure 38. Cost competitiveness of the firm licensed for production of co-powders

Stakeholder as a Producer

(Yellow colour)

0

50

100

150

200

250

300

ProductionCost

Selling Price

Rs. 100

Profit Rs.

150

Rs.

250

Eco-Exist

Green & Good

Store

Hyd Goes Green

0 100 200 300 400 500

Cost in (Rs.)

Cost of Holi Powders

Eco-Exist Green & Good Store Hyd Goes Green

Marketing Agency

0

100

200

300

400

500

Input Cost

Selling Cost

Rs. 100 Profit

Rs. 50 Packing &

Transport

Rs. 250 Rs. 400

70

Impact

Beneficiaries:

Tribals- Increased income due to collection of natural dye sources.

SHG’s /Enterprises– get a profit of not less than Rs.100 per kg of Eco-Colour

produced (Fig 38).

Social Marketing- Benefit of Rs. 100 per kg powder sold.

Consumers- Availability of safe Eco powders for celebrating holi and also saving

water for washing.

License Agreement with Hyderabad Goes Green and M/S Sukuki Enterprisesfor Eco-

Powder technology

It influences

Social activists

Consumer club

Designers

Celebrities

Figure 39. Eco-powders

Figure 40. Kids playing with Eco-Holi Colours

Figure 41. Commercial Packing of Eco-Holi Colours

71

Eco-paints / Surface paints:

Idols of Gods in huge number are being made during the festival seasons as there is lot of

demand from the public. The immersion of idols in water bodies is the social ritual followed

immediately after the festival celebrations. The well decorated clay/plaster of paris idols at

the end of celebrations are taken in processions to various water bodies for immersion allover

India.

The idols are made especially by cottage industries and street side artisans who employ

plaster of Paris and harmful chemicals and synthetic dyes. Plaster of paris contains gypsum,

sulphur, phosphorus and magnesium. Chemical paint contains mercury, cadmium, lead and

carbon.

Immersion of these idols can poison the waters of lakes, rivers and the sea by increasing

acidity, solid matter, organic matter and content of heavy metals. Such pollution damages the

flora and fauna of the eco-system, blocking the natural flow of water and causing stagnation.

It damages the human health by polluting drinking water sources causing breathing problems,

blood diseases, skin diseases etc.

With the havoc experience of using synthetic paints for idol decoration, one has to consider

eco-friendly dyes, as only alternative at present. Around 56 shades of paints were produced

which could be spray dried and suitable for larger scale production, as well the use of paints

on varied decorative products.

It replaced the present synthetic coloured idols market to an extent of 10% by providing eco

idols to the consumers. It would permanently solve the associated problems of health to the

humans, aqua bodies and avoid the toxicity of soil and water due to the use of natural dyes.

Natural Sources used for preparing Eco-paints:

Source Colour

Bixa orellana Orange

Punica granatum Golden Yellow

(crown yellow)

Tagetus erecta Yellowish green

Indigofera tinctora Blue

Indigofera tinctora + Tagetus erecta Green

Onosma echinoides Black

Butea monosperma Wheatish brown

Butea monosperma (gum) Red

Rubia cardifolia Pink

Rubia cardifolia Violet

72

Preparation of Surface paints for Painting:

Collection of natural sources

Boiling the sources for extraction of dye

Thickening the dye liquor to the consistency required for painting

Paint the mud idol with white colour and dry

Paint the idol with the prepared natural paints

Developed 56 shades of eco paints (surface coating) for idol painting by enhancing the

quality of previous shades in terms of

Depth of shade

Evenness

Feasibility through spray painting

Fastness

Adhering property

The developed paints were tested for heavy metal content and the results are furnished as

under:

Table 39. Heavy metal content in Eco-paints

Sno. Name S.ID. no Cd

(mg/kg)

Cr

(mg/kg)

Pb

(mg/kg)

Hg

(mg/kg)

As

(mg/kg)

1. Brown colour EP 101 BDL 2.0 1.005 0.00111 0.0036

2. Green colour EP 102 BDL BDL BDL BDL BDL

3. Orange colour EP 103 BDL BDL BDL BDL BDL

4. Grey colour EP 104 BDL BDL BDL BDL BDL

5. Yellow colour EP 105 BDL BDL 1.04 BDL BDL

6. Mustard Yellow EP 106 BDL BDL 0.904 BDL BDL

7. Light violet EP 107 BDL BDL 0.8 BDL 0.0035

8 Blue colour EP 108 BDL 2.07 1.08 BDL BDL

9 Pink colour EP 109 BDL BDL BDL BDL BDL

10 Black colour EP 110 BDL 1.08 BDL BDL BDL

As indicated in the above table, majority of the heavy metals were below detectable level.

Others are much below the safe range. Therefore the developed colours could be safely used

for decoration of any type of idols or can be used as a surface paint without any problem.

Impact

Beneficiaries:

Tribals- Increased income due to collection of natural dye sources.

SHG’s /Enterprises– get a profit of not less than Rs.100 per ltr of Eco-paints

produced.

73

Social Marketing- Benefit of Rs. 100 per ltr paint sold.

Consumers- Availability of safe Eco Painted idols for celebrating Ganesh chaturdi

and also protecting the water bodies.

The activity sensitized

NGO’s

Social Organizers

Social activists

Consumer clubs

Members of Religious committees

Awareness Campaign Preparation of Eco- paints

Painting Ganesh Idol with Eco-Paints Eco-painted Ganesh Idols

Figure 42. Eco-paints, preparation and awareness campaign

74

Supplied 150 litres of Eco-paints for 70 feet Clay Ganesh idol erected by electronic

media TV 9 channel at Durgam Cheruvu, Banjara hills, Hyderabad

&

Displayed two 5 feet Ganesh idols painted with Natural paints at Khairatabad,

Hyderabad

Natural dyed Banana fibre handicrafts (Design):

Fibre handicrafts with mesta and jute fibre are produced by many SHGs and promoted by

NGOs in Srikakulam and Vijayanagaram districts of Andhra Pradesh. These handicrafts

suffered with the problem of using the direct dyes which are not fast and also highly toxic.

The effluents cause lot of pollution. When the handicrafts are transported the colour sticks to

the other surfaces and caused staining. The colour combinations were not very appealing due

to the use of dark shades. In order to provide an alternative to these colours natural dyes in

fibre handicraft field were introduced.

A fibre handicraft unit was initiated at Muchintal village of R.R district taking few SHG

groups.

Key Interventions made:

1. A training programme was conducted for 45 days in order to provide hands on experience

in dyeing banana fibre with natural dyes and also making handicrafts.

2. Another training programme was conducted for 45 days within a gap of one month to

improve their skills in making different handicrafts for consumer use. The colour

combinations were very pleasing and the products made are furnished in Annexure-V

75

3. Marketing Linkages

Later this group of 30 women were offered employment by GMR Varalakshmi foundation,

Rajiv Gandhi Air port, Hyderabad and around 28 women joined the organization. They make

the handicrafts during few seasons and also based on the orders. They were trained in making

jute bags also to engage them during the rest of the period and thus they are able to sustain in

the institute.

Economic Benefit:

All these women are only home makers before the intervention but after intervention they are

able to earn Rs 5000 to Rs 6000 per month.

Introduction of natural dye shades for lacquer toys:

Etikoppaka, a village near Anakapally is known for its lacquer toys from long. The toy

makers had problems with regard to the use of synthetic colours as there was rejection for

export. They also had problem with cheaper counterfeit toys coming from China. As these

artisans had approached the lead centre to introduce natural dyes in painting lacquer dolls, the

following interventions were made

Key Interventions:

Natural dye extractions

Making into paint consistency and also making concentrated powders

Mixing with lacquer

Application onto the toys

Photographs of the toys furnished in Annexure V

Benefit to the Artisans:

Increased their sales by 10%

Able to address the problem with cheaper counterfeit toys coming from China

Their income level had increased by 20%. – Earlier each artisan family was able to

earn Rs 4000 to Rs 5000, but after intervention they are able to earn Rs 4600 to Rs

6000 per month

Partner : M/S Shyamal handlooms

Cultivation of Indigo:

By following the package of practices standardized by the lead institute, cultivation of indigo

was taken up by the partner in ½ acre land for 2 years. A small indigo extraction unit was

also set up to make indigo cake. Around 8 kg indigo cake could be made from half acre crop.

Standardisation of Indigo dyeing:

Indigo dye does not require the use of mordants. It is a vat dye wherein the dye in reduced

stage is applied on fabric and then reoxidised. It is regarded as a fugitive dye. By varying the

method of application and the use of fermentation method, very good indigo shades of light

76

to dark blues were obtained on cotton. The same was tried on silk but with the use of very

mild alkali such as Sodium carbonate. The shades were found to be colour fast to most of the

serviceable conditions obtaining a grade of 4 and above on 5 point scale.

Training Programmes:

The main job entrusted to the partner is to provide training in dyeing and printing with natural

dyes. Accordingly 2 trainings of around 2 months every year was provided by them to around

30 to 40 unemployed youth per batch. The trained personnel were absorbed by M/S Shyamal

Handlooms and also other units in Chirala. Around 65% of adoption was found.

Impact:

As it is a commercial establishment, their sales have been increased by 20% with the use of

more colours. The unit has expanded and exclusive unit for natural dyes was started. Another

unit was started in Kuntlur, Hayatnagar mandal, R.R. Dt wherein many women were

employed after giving the training on block printing and also painting with natural dyes.

Training women in Dyeing & Hand Block Kalamkari

1

Pilot plants:

To showcase the feasibility of scaling up of natural dye technologies/ practices, three pilot

plants have been established.

Natural Dye extraction Unit:

To ensure the supply chain management it is imperative to establish a Natural dye extraction

unit at a place of abundant availability of natural resources. The tribal belt of Andhra Pradesh

has abundant natural plant sources that give rise colour. The natural dye extraction unit was

purposefully established at RARS, Chintapally, Vizag dt, located in high altitude and tribal

area. It mainly aimed at converting the resource mass to the required form of natural dye and

provide livelihood to the tribal community within the tribal belt. This facilitated developing

the linkages between the NTP product collectors and natural dye users at Pedana and

Srikalahasthi which provided them employment and sustainable livelihood. This also ensured

the continuous supply of natural dye for the endusers. The unit was promoted so as to operate

in PPP mode so that ample scope be provided to the tribal SHGs / entrepreneurs. They can

process their natural dye sources and benefit by selling the natural dye in a value added state.

The extraction unit is based on aqueous extraction wherein the natural dye material is

extracted in water from the source material. Further water is evaporated to get the dye in

powder form. It follows the operations furnished below:

Natural dye source collection and drying in shade

Reduction of the source in powder form through pulverization

Aqueous extraction

Water evaporation

Spray drying

The following main equipment has been installed to ensure the production of natural dye in

concentrated powder form:

Pulverizer Capacity 25 kg

Dye Extraction Unit: 3 Vessels

Steam Boiler

Evaporator

Spray Dryer: Capacity 50 lts per hour

The unit facilitate the process in the following dimensions:

2

Economics

Production per day

Table 40. Economics of production of natural dye per day

Output

(concentrated

powder

form)

Qty of

Source

material

used per day

Cost of the

raw

material

Rs

Operational

costs

including

depreciation

Rs

Gross

returns*

Net

returns

6 to 10 Kgs 2 quintals 4000 9000 24000 to

40000

11000 to

27000

* The unit would be operated for 10 to 15 days per month depending upon the availability of

the natural dye in particular season.

Sustainability of the Unit after NAIP:

There are no such units that produce natural dye within the state of A.P. and also Tamilnadu

where natural dye practices are in vogue. As the synthetic dyeing units are closed at Tirupur,

the knitting industry is looking for natural dye in powder form. There is lot of demand for this

product throughout the year. As the raw material supply is ensured at Chintapally area, the

sustainability of this unit is guaranteed.

Figure 43. Natural dye Extraction unit at Chintapally

To facilitate indigo dye extraction from indigo plant material an extraction unit is essential.

ARS Utukur was selected for raising indigo crop and setting up the pilot plant as it located in

a dry land area. The package of practices with organic manure for indigo crop was

standardized and the adoption of this crop has increased from zero(baseline data) to over

3

3000 acres in Andhra Pradesh. Many farmers in YSR Kadapa district are utilizing this facility

of making indigo cakes. The unit consists of 3 vats (concrete) that will hold water for

extraction and transfer from one vessel to the other.

Economics:

Table 41. cost of cultivation of indigo

Output

(concentrated

powder

form)

Qty of

Source

material

used per day

Cost of the

raw

material

Rs

Operational

costs

including

depreciation

Rs

Gross

returns*

Net

returns

Indigo Cake

15 to 20 Kgs

750 Kgs (1

acre)

3500 3000 30000 23500

Dry Leaf

500 Kgs (1

acre)

3500 1500 40000 35000

* The returns are seasonal.

Figure 44. Indigo Extraction Pilot Plant at Utukur

4

Natural dye Printing Unit at Kuntlur (M/S Shyamal Handlooms)

A natural dye Printing Unit was started at Kuntlur with the research and training interventions

from NAIP. The unit facilitates both printing and painting with natural dyes. The women of

the village Kuntlur, Hayatnagar mandal were trained in printing and painting with natural

dyes for 45 days with the monitory and research support from NAIP. This unit was

established by M/S Shyamal Handlooms, the private partner in the value chain consortia.

Personnel: The unit is a woman based one that had employed around 25 trained women and 5

male members to help in administration and supply of material etc.

Table 42. Wage pattern of personnel in natural dye printing unit

Trained

Personnel

No. of Male /

Female

Monthly income

before training

Rs

Monthly income

after training

Rs

Skilled Printers 4M + 4

Female

0 Rs 3500

Skilled painters 20 Female 0 Rs 4000 to Rs 4500

Supervisor Female 0 5000

Over all In-

charge

Male 10000 15000

Production: 4000 to 5000 meters of fabric per month

As the women hail from the same village, increase in their income level has really helped

their families to grow in a better environment. The unit produces printed and painted fabric

worth of Rs 7 to 8 lakhs (4000 to 5000 mts) every month which is being sold to M/S Master

Weavers, Kothapet, Hyderabad. The unit is running at a comfortable profit level and the

fabrics are at much higher demand.

5

3. Pochampally Handloom Park: One of the largest Handloom park in Asia. It is mainly

produce ikat cotton and silk textiles for apparel and home textiles. They have received

training on dyeing cotton with natural dyes and has been supplying material dyed with natural

dyes. There are more than 200 weavers working in this unit. The Govt has a proposal to turn

the whole unit as natural dye unit. They have around 5% of their production in natural dyes.

4. Natural dye Incubation Unit, College of Home Science, Hyderabad: A natural dye

laboratory has been established to facilitate processing of natural dye products, their

assessment and also to impart training. It is recently been certified with ISO 9001-2008 for

Quality Systems. This incubation unit the first of its kind has been established with the

support form NAIP to facilitate weavers, artisans and entrepreneurs to take appropriate

training and use the facility for their production and also trying new products on pilot scale.

The incubation unit has two areas- facilitation for production of natural dye products and

quality assessment.

Equipment / Instruments installed:

Production area:

1. Tray drier – Facilitates drying of Natural dye

2. Spray drier – Provide natural dye in powder form

3. Cabinet dyeing machine – 5 Kg capacity for dyeing cotton yarn

4. Winch dyeing machine to dye delicate fabrics- 6 meters capacity

5. Vessels for manual dyeing of yarn and fabric

6. Dyeing baths for shade matching

Quality Assessment:

1. HPTLC to identify and estimate the pigment content in natural dye

2. Colour matching spectrophotometer- to analyse the colour strength, to grade the

colourfastness

3. Conditioning Unit- Facilitates testing at the standard conditions of testing textiles

4. Launderometer – Colourfastness to washing

5. Xenon tester - Colourfastness to artificial light

6. Crockmeter - Colourfastness to crocking or rubbing

7. Perspirometer- Colourfastness to perspiration

8. Autoclave – steaming printed fabrics

9. Blue wool standards and Gray scale

10. Fabric testers- Bursting strength tester, abrasion tester, Fire retardancy tester

11. Fibre testers- Stelometer and torsion balance

Sustainability of the Unit:

As this unit is certified under ISO 9001-2008, commercial testing of textiles and natural dye

products is being taken up. The unit has been identified by the University as the commercial

centre wherein it will be further funded by the State Govt for maintenance. Therefore, the

unit will definitely sustain as quality Control laboratory for natural dyes and textiles. The

draft certificate is enclosed in Annexure – VI.

6

Production centres

Silk Dyeing and weaving Unit:

A silk dyeing and weaving unit was established at Hindupur by a group consisting of one

dyer and 10 weavers after receiving training from NAIP. This unit facilitates dyeing of silk

yarn up to 20 Kgs a day. Hindupur is predominantly a silk weaving town in Anantapur dt of

A.P. The following interventions were made:

Key Interventions:

1. Training in dyeing silk with natural dyes for 10 days

2. Advanced training in shade matching

3. Supply of Natural dye Extractor

4. Continuous monitoring

5. Market linkages

Economic Impact:

Table 43. Monthly income of dyers and weavers before and after NAIP intervention

S.

No

Dyer /

weaver

Monthly income before

Intervention (Rs.)

Monthly income after

Intervention (Rs.)

1 Dyer 15000 20000

2 Weaver 7000 9000

They devote 20% of their time for dyeing or weaving natural dyed silk. The products are

given in Appendix IV.

Srinadh Fabrics, a Cotton Dyeing and Weaving Unit, Koyalagudem, Nalgonda dt.

The unit has been established by a dyer cum weaver Mr. Srinadh who was trained under

NAIP by the lead institute. He has grown as a small master weaver giving work to around 10

weavers situated within and around Koyalagudem. Presently he dyes cotton yarn mainly and

supplies to others for weaving. Few weavers are also trained by him for producing some

common colours. He started exporting the natural dye material from 2009-10 onwards. M/S

Maiwa fabrics which is an international company sources the natural dyed ikat material from

this unit. His clients are mainly boutiques and textile and apparel designers. He supplies to

many firms all over India and also represents in most of the exhibitions that are being

promoted by Govt.

Unit turn over per annum: Rs 35,00,000 (2013-14)

Table 44. Monthly income of weavers before and after NAIP training

Trained

Personnel

Monthly income

before training

Rs

Monthly income

after training

Rs

Master weaver 10000 30000 to 50000

Weavers 3000 10000 to 12000

7

The unit can sustain as there are very few inputs being given by NAIP in the first two years.

It is able to grow substantially with more and more linkages. The International workshop

recently held has helped them to have national and international linkages for getting the

fabric orders.

Banana Dyeing and Weaving unit

A Banana fibre dyeing and weaving unit was established at Rajahmundry. This unit has the

facility to extract the fibre from the banana pseudo stem, dyeing the fibre, prepare the fibre

for weaving and weaving the final fabric with cotton warp.

Key Interventions made:

1. Training on extraction of the fibre from banana pseudo stem

2. Training on dyeing banana fibre with natural dyes

3. Supply of fibre extraction machine and a loom for weaving

4. Method of weaving banana fibre as weft

5. Developed market linkages

The beneficiary is an unemployed youth interested to try new products. The natural dyed

banana fabric was first made in this unit which has much demand from most of the textile and

apparel designers

Economic Benefit

The beneficiary receives a profit of Rs 15000 per month on sale of the banana fabric which

has very good demand besides his monthly wages.

Natural dye paper: To observe the acceptability of natural dyes in paper industry a small

intervention was made to introduce natural dye in hand paper making at NIRD, Hyderabad.

The light coloured paper in various natural dye shades were most preferred by consumers

among the other handmade papers coloured with synthetic dyes. Around 98% consumers

preferred this paper. This prompts that natural dyes can also be introduced in paper industry

for making greeting cards and invitation cards.

Figure 45. Paper making with natural dyes

8

International Workshop on Natural Dyes 2014:

Even though natural dyes have been used for centuries, there are no standards for certification

of the natural dyed textile/products. Specific certification for natural dyes seems to be not

existing. American Association for Textile Chemists and Colourists (AATCC) has

formulated standard test procedures for colourfastness to sunlight, rubbing, perspiration,

washing etc. But the association has not come up with standard test procedures for

identification and certification of natural dyes. It is possible to obtain all most all shades of

the colour spectrum using natural dyes at present. But very few shades are being indexed by

Society of Dyers and Colourists based on the hue. It is time to take steps towards achieving

colour index numbers to all shades obtained from different sources as the demand for natural

dyes has been increasing from the recent past.

In view of the above, it is becoming difficult for both manufacturers and buyers to

differentiate natural dyed fabrics from the synthetic dyed fabrics. Number of counterfeit

textiles dyed with synthetic dyes to the matching shades of natural dyes are in the market

creating lot of confusion to the buyer. Therefore, it is imperative to come up with

identification procedures and standards for certification of natural dyed products. It requires

lot of debating among the forum of experts, artisans and other stakeholders by including

scientists from different countries and also representatives of certifying bodies. Therefore it is

proposed to convene an international seminar which may become initial platform for

interaction among the natural dye expert groups. The workshop was organized by NAIP-

Value chain in Natural dyes and ANGRAU from 5th

to 7th

March 2014 to bring all the

scientists and stakeholders on a single platform to facilitate development globally in the field

of natural dyes and thus contribute to environmental protection. The main theme of the

workshop is Quality, Standards and Certification for natural dyes.

Around 41 International participants from 14 countries such as France, Australia, USA, UK,

Japan, Malaysia, Taiwan, Indonesia, Zimbabwe, Singapore, Korea, etc. have taken part

actively and deliberated on many issues of natural dyes. National participants of around 150

from the scientist and industrial group have participated. The stakeholders group of 200

consisting of dyers, weavers and artisans were also present for the workshop.

Paper presentations: Around 40 scientific papers were presented by scientists and also natural

dye practitioners. All international participants have shared their experiences in the field of

natural dyes. Around 20 poster presentations were made. Certifying institutes such as

AATCC and GOTS have participated in the workshop. Around 13 natural dye practices were

demonstrated to the participants by national and international ntural dye experts. Separate

session in vernacular language was held for weavers, dyers and artisans. Very good

interactions and deliberations were held and the following issues were discussed in detail.

9

Continuous supply of natural dye sources through collection and cultivation

Quality standards for natural dyes and related products

Certification for natural dyes

Garment designing using indigenous natural arts/ crafts

Non apparel applications-cosmetics and other related fields antique preservation.

Retailing and export related issues of natural dyed textiles

Creation of entrepreneurs on non-textile projects

Environmental foot prints on apparel

Natural dyes as a curriculum, training of artisans, crafts

Documentation of indigenous publication

Rural, women empowerment/ development

Standard models that can be implemented in the industry

Natural dye plant carbon foot print

Future demand for Natural dyed textiles nationally and internationally

It was emphasized to have an exclusive web portal for natural dyes and their related issues

where everybody can update their knowledge and research related issues. It should be useful

for scientists, artisans, weavers, clients, marketing professionals, educationalists, design

developers, fashion designers, etc.

It was recommended to devise a national/ international panel/ board to look after the natural

dyes issues like standardization, labeling, testing and other quality related issues.

It was suggested to include bodies like ICAR, AATCC, ANGRAU, NHDB, Ministries

concerned to safeguard the trends, trade, textiles aspects for natural dyes and their products

in terms of making and manufacturing, marketing issues.

It was suggested to have a future five to ten year agenda on the natural dye issues so that

future symposiums, workshops, etc can be planned based on the issues

The Global Standards for Organic Textiles has come forward to give exclusive certification

for natural dyes in association with NAIP value chain in Natural dyes and the ISO certified

incubation unit will be identified as one of the laboratories for analysis of the natural dye

textiles.

The inauguration of the workshop was done by the National Director NAIP Dr. Rama Rao.

The key note address was delivered by Dr. Dominique Cardon, Emeritus Scientist from

France. Mr. Edric Ong has shared his international experiences with International

Symposium and Exhibition on Natural Dyes. Eminent people participated in the inaugural are

D. Padmaraju, V.C. of ANGRAU, Dr. Chandra shekhar Reddy, DG, Ni-msme. The

valedictory function was held on 7th

March with Dr. Ezakiel, National Coordiantor, NAIP

Com-2 as chief guest. The invited eminent guests for the workshop includes Dr. Dev Kumar,

former ADG, Education division, ICAR, Dr. Srinivasan, former Director, CIRCOT, Dr.

Gulrajani, IIT, Delhi, Dr. Samantha, IJIRA, etc. The sponsorers of the workshop include The

Ministry of Textiles, GOI, Dept of Handlooms and Textiles, Govt of A.P., Pollution control

board, A.P. NHDC, AMA Herbals etc.

10

Figure 45 A. International Workshop on Natural Dyes

11

Figure 45 B. International Workshop on Natural Dyes

12

An International Fashion Show was held on the second day to showcase the natural dye

fashion with the participation of the national and international designers. Personnel from

industrial have attended and showed interest to collaborate in natural dye field.

Impact of the technologies

As there is potential economic gain for all the technologies developed under the

project, a series of training programmes were organized to the relevant stakeholders to

establish value chains.

Two strategies were adopted for establishing value chains.

i. Market led chain: It is to transform the natural dye collectors, extractors, dyers,

weavers, artisans and traders from mere produce sellers at local markets and also

through middlemen to producers and sellers in wider markets to achieve best returns

for their investment. The researchers of the project also transformed the role from

mere technology transfer to market oriented technology transfer, thus many rural

enterprises and networks of stakeholders emerged.

ii. Public Private Partnership: Individual stakeholders, institutions and traders were

identified and empowered with technical and market knowledge of natural dye value

chain.

The following frame work (Fig 46) was developed and followed. Ample care was

taken to incorporate market orientation in the content.

Figure 46. Broad Frame Work for Training Programmes in VCND

GAP ANALYSIS

EXISTING VALUE

CHAIN

TRAINING NEED

ANALYSIS

PRODUCT DESIGN & PROMOTION

STRATEGIES

PLANNING

TRAINING

CONDUCTING

TRAINING

NETWORKING

Winch Dyeing Machine

13

As many as 100 training programmes were conducted involving different

stakeholders. An amount of Rs 50 lakhs was spent which was 10% of the project budget. At

the time of training the producers and marketers were brought on to one platform. The

methods followed for different training programmes conducted are furnished below.

14

Component

No Stakeholders Behavior domain Method

Cognitive Psychomotor Affective

Collection of natural dye sources 5 Collectors- women SHGs Short term training

Cultivation of Indigo natural dye extraction 2 Farmers -- Frontline

demonstration

Cultivation Marigold for natural dye

extraction

3 Farmers -- Frontline

demonstration

Postharvest management of natural dye

sources

5 Farmers and SHG members

-- Short term training

Extraction of indigo 3 Farmers -- -- Frontline

demonstration

Extraction of natural dye- hands-on

experience with mechanized plant

4 Dyers -- Result demonstration

Application of natural dye on cotton yarn 4 Weavers -- Long term training

Application of natural dye on silk yarn 2 Weavers -- Long term training

Application of natural dye on banana fibre 3 Weavers -- Short term training

Application of natural dye on mud idol and

wooden toys

20 Artisans -- Short term training

Production of eco holi colours 10 Women SHGs -- Short term training

Production of handicrafts with natural dyed

banana fibre

5 Women SHGs -- Short term training

Production of natural dyed textiles 5 Weavers and artisans -- Long term training

Popularization of natural dyed products-

textile, handicrafts, eco holi colours, eco

idols,

30 General public -- Workshops cum

exhibition

Note: Duration-Short term: 3-6 days, Long terme-15-30 days, Frontline demonstration & Result demonstration: one season

Methods adopted for training various stakeholders in the natural dye value chain

91

The impact of training programmes was in the form of emergence of networks and marketing of

technology for the products developed in value chain.

Emergence of networks and economic gains

Table 46. Emergence of networks and economic gain in natural dye value chain

Interventions Beneficiary Avg.

baseline

(Rs.)/

month

Average

as on Mar

2013 (Rs)

Increment

al income

after

deducting

the

additional

cost (Rs)

Estimated

%

attribution

of income

increase to

intervention

Extent of

adoption

Total

gain

Rs./

Crores

Mari gold

cultivation

Farmers 20,000/

acre

25,000 5000 25.0 1000

acres

0.5

**Indigo

cultivation

Farmers 10000/

per acre

25,000 15000 150.0 2000

acres

3.0

Natural dye

sources

collection

SHG

women

2000 3500 1000

50.0

200

persons

0.24

Natural dye

extraction

Artisans

Entrepren

eurs

5000 7000 2500

50.0

50

persons

0.15

Natural dye

dyers

Artisans 5000 8000 2500 50.0

20

persons

0.06

Eco

powders

production

SHG

women

2000 5000 1500 (one

month) 75.0 (one

month)

400

persons

0.06

Eco powder

marketing

Entrepren

eurs

0 1,25,000 1,25,000

--

3

enterpris

es

0.037

5

Eco paints

production,

and packing

SHG

women

2000 5500 1500 75.0

(seasonal)

10

persons

(2

entrepris

es)

0.015

Eco paint

application

(idols)

Artisans 3500 9000 6000 171.4

(seasonal)

100 0.06

Textile

products-

sarees, dress

materials,

strolls etc.

Weavers 3500 10000 6500

(120

days) 85.7

500

weavers

1.30

Handicrafts

(Banana and

lacquer doll)

Artisans 5000 7500 5000

100

2

enterpris

es

0.01

Banana

fibre

Weaver

(one

person

only)

3500 12000 8000

228.6

1 person 0.008

92

Employment generation

Table 47. Employment generation and economic gain in natural dye value chain

Beneficiary Avg. baseline

(Person

days/year)

Average as

on Mar 2013

(Person

days/year)

Estimated %

attribution of

employment

increase to

intervention

Natural dye sources

(collection)-

SHG women 36 80 122.2

Natural dye extraction

Artisans

Entrepreneurs

36 90 150.0

Natural dye dyers

Artisans 180 220 22.2

Eco powders production

SHG women 178 230 29.2

Eco paints production, and

packing

SHG women 75 135 80.0

Eco paint application (idols)

Artisans 110 170 54.5

Textile products- sarees,

dress materials, strolls etc.

Weavers 168 210 25.0

Handicrafts (Banana and

lacquer doll)

Artisans 220 240 9.1

Banana fibre

Weaver 65 100 53.8

Other benefits

Replaced chemical holi colours with eco holi colours by creating awareness

Use of mud ganesh idols and application of eco paints have become the preferred

practices, which resulted in increase in the demand, thereby establishment of

small enterprises (seasonal)

Increase in prices for natural raw sources by 25% per KG due to increased

knowledge regarding wider scope of utility of plant sources.

Industrial linkages for up scaling of the technologies and commercialisation.

Bankable projects are available for self employment or additional employment.

93

7 Process/ Product/Technology/ Value Chain/ Rural Industry Developed

S. No. (Process/Product/Technology/

Value Chain/ Rural Industry

Developed

Adoption/ Validation/

Commercialization, etc.

Responsible Partner

I Production technologies ANGRAU

Production of Indigo and

marigold

Adoption & Validation

II Processing Technologies

a. Eco textiles Validated and

commercialized Dyeing of cotton, Silk & Banana

Banana Fibre handicrafts

b. Eco-powders Validated and

commercialized

c. Surface Coating

Idols Validated and

commercialized

Lacquer toys Validated and

commercialized

III Silk Dyeing Unit, Hindupur Rural Industry

Cotton Dyeing and weaving

unit, Koyalagudem, Hyd

Rural industry

Banana fabric weaving unit

(Rural industry developed at

Rajahmundry)

Rural industry

Hyderabad Goes Green Production cum Sale

outlet

M/S Sukuki Enterprises Production cum Sale

outlet

Natural Printing unit, Kuntlur,

Hayatnagar, Hyderabad

Rural Industry M/S Shyamal Industries

8. Patents (Filed/Granted)

S.

No.

Title of Patent Inventor(s) (Name &

Address)

Filed/Published/Gra

nted (No./Date)

Responsible

Partner

1 Identification Kit for

identifying the presence

of natural dye in dyed

ICAR

Dr. A. Sharada Devi

Consortium Principal

610/DEL/2014 dated

05/03/2014

ANGRAU

94

textiles Investigator

NAIP – Value Chain

in Natural Dyes

College of Home

Science, Saifabad

Hyderabad

2 Improved Process for

preparing environment

friendly Paints

611/DEL/2014 dated

05/03/2014

3 Process for making Eco

Colours

614/DEL/2014 dated

05/03/2014

4 Eco-friendly process for

preparing dyed banana

textiles using natural

dyes

622/DEL/2014 dated

06/03/2014

9. Linkages and Collaborations

S. No. Linkages developed

(Name & Address of

Organization)

Date/Period From-To Responsible Partner

1 Hyderabad Goes Green a

Social Enterprise, Banjara

Hills, Hyd

2009 to till date ANGRAU

2 SAVE an NGO, Indira Park,

Hyd

2008 to till date

3 AP Pollution Control Board,

Sanathnagar, Hyd

2008 to till date

4 TV 9 Electronic Media, Hyd 2009 to 2012

5 Ganesh Ustav Committee,

Khairatabad, Hyderabad

2008 to till date

6 Forest Research Institute,

Dullapally, Hyderabad

2008 to till date

7 KVIC, Karimnagar 2009-11

8 Budha Poornima Project, Govt

of AP, Hyderabad

2008 to till date

9 Jagruthi, L B Nagar,

Hyderabad NGO

2010 to till date

10 M/S. Sukuki Enterprises 2011 to till date

11 National Handloom Devt

Corporation, Nampally, Hyd

2011 to till date

12 Handloom Society, 2008 to till date

95

Koyalagudem, Nalgonda dt

13 Pollution Control Cell,

Collectorate, R R Dt.

2008 to till date

14 Dept of Crafts, Govt of A.P 2012 to till date

15 KVIC, Rajendranagar, RR Dt 2011 to till date

16 Pochampally Handloom Park,

Pochampally, Nalgonda dt

2008 to till date

17 Weavers Society, Hindupur 2008 to till date

18 Craft Council of India 2008 to till date

19 Association of Kalamkari

workers, Pedana

2008 to till date

20 Dept of Handlooms, Govt of

A.P

2008 to till date

21 Cirala Handloom Association 2008 to till date M/S Shyamal Handlooms

10. Status on Environmental and Social Safeguard Aspects

(Please see NAIP website for clarity on the subject)

Environmental safeguards:

• Biodegradable

• Made of plant materials that improve the fertility of land

• Pollution free

• No traces of heavy metals

Social safeguards:

• Change in income patterns

• Change in occupational patterns

• Effect on community ownership of natural resources

11. Constraints, if any and Remedial Measures Taken

Nil

12. Publications (As per format of citation in Indian Journal of Agricultural Sciences)

A. Research papers in peer reviewed journals. Details as per the guidelines for citation of

publications

Research Articles:

Aparna and Devi A S. 2010. Consumer Preference for Banana Blended Textiles. Man Made

Textiles in India 12: 429-431. (Naas Rating 3.32)

96

Aparna P and Devi A S. 2012. Mechanical and Comfort Properties of Banana Blended Textiles.

Man Made Textiles in India 7:234-237. (Naas Rating 3.32)

Bhavani K and Devi A S. 2010. Carpet Weaving Industry of Warangal – A field Study. Asian

Journal of Home Science 5(2): 293-301. (Naas Rating 2.9)

Bhavani K and Devi A S. 2012. Evaluation of Colour Fastness and Colour Strength Properties of

Naturally Dyed Banana Carpet Yarns. Asian Journal of Home Science 7:109-113. . (Naas Rating

2.9)

Devi A S and Sharmila N. 2013. Organic Cotton – A New Perspective. Journal of Agriculture

and Veterinary Science (IOSR-JAVS) 4(6): 5-14. . (Naas Rating 4.27)

Harini D and Devi A S. 2012. Non-Woven Drapery Lining with UV Resistance. The Journal of

Research ANGRAU 40(3):33-36. . (Naas Rating 3.86)

Mahesh G and Devi A S. 2012. Handle properties of Enzyme Treated Bamboo and Bamboo

Blended Fabrics. The Journal of Research ANGRAU 40(2): 60-63. (Naas Rating 3.86)

Sharmila N and Devi A S. 2012. Conscious Connections in Clothing. E Journal Science to Sage

:132-139

Sharmila N and Devi A S. 2013. Effect Of Concious Connective Processes in The Supply Chain

Of Handlooms And Apparel in India. Specator 1(2):14-26

Devi A S and Richa P. 2014. Handcrafted Shawls of Nagaland. International Journal of Scientific

and Research (Accepted for publication)

Devi A S and Richa P. 2014. Handloom weaving in Nagaland. International Journal of Scientific

and Research (Accepted for publication)

Review article

Devi A S. 2010. Nano Technology in Agriculture. (in) Compendium of Research Papers, p 75-

81, Department of Environmental Sciences, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

B. Books/ Book chapters/ Abstracts/ Popular articles, Brochures, etc.

Devi A S. 2014. Book of Abstracts, p 67 NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad, India.

Devi A S. 2014. A Value Chain in Natural Dyes, p 313 BS Publications Pvt.Ltd., Hyderabad,

India.

Devi A S. 2014. Natural Dye Bearing Plants of Andhra Pradesh, p 184 BS Publications Pvt.Ltd.,

Hyderabad, India.

Newspaper Articles / News Items:

Devi A S. 2008. Matti Vigrahalapai Avagahana Kalpinchundi. Vaartha, 9.8.08.

Devi A S. 2008. Dearth of Natural Dyes Dampens Eco-Friendly Ganesha Idols. The Hindu,

9.8.08.

Devi A S. 2008. Eannali Brathukulu. Eenadu, 12.12.08.

97

Devi A S. 2008. Girijanulaku Rangula Prapamcham. Sakshi, 12.12.08.

Devi A S. 2008. Sahaja Siddha Aadhakamtho Vupadhi. Eenadu, 20.10.08.

Devi A S. 2008. Sahaja Siddha Rangula Sub Project Prarumbam. Andhra Prabha, 20.10.08.

Devi A S. 2008. Chiralaku Sahaja Siddha Rangula Thayari. Sakshi, 20.10.08.

Devi A S. 2008. Swabhavika Rangulaku Adhika Demand. Andhra Bhoomi, 20.10.08.

Devi A S. 2008. Abhiruchiki Anugunamga Vasthra Vuthpathi. Surya, 20.10.08.

Devi A S. 2008. Prakruthi Siddha Rangula Thayariki Pranalika. Vaartha, 20.10.08.

Devi A S. 2008. Home Science Kalashalalo NAIP Project Pi Workshop. Andhra Prabha,

20.08.08.

Devi A S. 2008. Sampradaya Sowndaryam. Eenadu, 21.08.08.

Devi A S. 2008. Sahaja Rangule Sarvathra Raksha. Andhra Jyothi, 21.8.08.

Devi A S. 2009. Arati Naara Uthpathulatho Upadhi ki Baata. Sakshi, 22.7.09.

Devi A S. 2009. Kruthrima Rangula Vaadakamtho Penu Muppu. Eenadu, 06.8.09.

Devi A S. 2009. Vigrahala Thayarilo Sahaja Rangule Muddu. Vaartha, 6.8.09.

Devi A S. 2009. Sahajam Gane Ganesh Vigrahalu Cheyali. Andhra Jyothi, 6.8.09.

Devi A S. 2009. PCB Pushes For Natural Dyes On Ganesh Idols. Times of India, 6.8.09.

Devi A S. 2009. Use Eco-Friendly Colors. The Hindu, 7.08.09.

Devi A S. 2009. Vinayaka Vigrahala Thayariki Sahaja Rangule Melu. Sakshi, 16.8.09.

Devi A S. 2009. Losing Colours. The Hindu, 20.8.09.

Devi A S. 2009. Matti Vinayakudu – Sahaja Rangulu. Sakshi, 20.8.09.

Devi A S. 2009. Sahaja Sidha Vinayakudu. Andhra Jyothi, 20.8.09.

Devi A S. 2009. Modella Hoyalaku Sahaja Kala. Eenadu, 28.10.09.

Devi A S. 2009. Aakattu Kunna Nature Show. AndhraJyothi, 28.10.09.

Devi A S. 2009. Andamaina Bhamalu… Adireti Nadakalu…… Sakshi, 28.10.09.

Devi A S. 2009. Noolu…Fashion…Hoyalu…. Surya, 28.10.09.

Devi A S. 2009. When Nature Meets Couture. Times of India, 28.10.09.

Devi A S. 2009. Sahaja Rangula Harivillu. Vartha, 28.10.09.

Devi A S. 2010. Eco-colourstho Marintha Jollyga Holi. Andhra Prabha, 27.02.10.

Devi A S. 2010. Rasayana Rangulu Vaddu… Sahaja siddhame muddu… Sakshi, 28.02.10.

Devi A S. 2010. Celebrate Holi with Eco-Friendly Colours. The Hindu, 28.02.10.

Devi A S. 2010. Holi Revelry with Natural Colours. Times of India, 01.03.10.

Devi A S. 2010. Sahaja Rangulatho Paryavarananiki Maelu. Andhra Jyothi, 11.08.10.

Devi A S. 2010. Sahaja Rangulatho Kalusyaniki Check. Sakshi, 11.08.10.

Devi A S. 2010. Natural Vinayaka. Andhra Jyothi, 11.09.10.

Devi A S. 2010. Sahaja Ranjulatho Kalusya Nivarana. 19.10.10.

Devi A S. 2011. Sahaja Rangula Parisramatho Ardhikabhivrudhi. Eenadu, 26.02.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Rs.3.5 Kotlatho Rangula Parisrama. Sakshi, 26.02.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Sahaja Rangulaku si Aandham. Eenadu, 14.03.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Make Merry with Natural Colours. Hindu, 18.03.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Eco-Gulals for Safe Holi. Indian Express, 18.03.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Go Natural. Times of India, 18.03.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Fun with Colours. Deccan Chronicle, 18.03.11.

98

Devi A S. 2011. Holiki Sahajamyna Rengulane Vadudam. Vaartha, 18.03.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Sahaja Rangulathone Sambaram. Sakshi, 18.03.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Holi – Sandade Malli. Eenadu, 18.03.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Sandadi Shuru. Andhra Jyothi, 18.03.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Model Nagaranga Hyderabad – Mayor. Andhra Jyothi, 18.03.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Sahaja Rangulatho Holi. Surya, 18.03.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Rasayana Rangulu Vaddu-Sahaja Rangule Muddu. Andhra Prabha, 18.03.11

Devi A S. 2011. Manyam Girijanulaku Theepi Kaburu. Eenadu, 30.03.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Sahaja Ganapa Rangulaku Pratyeka Gurthimpu. Andhra Prabha, 30.03.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Kaalushyam Bathuku Durbharam.. Prajashakthi, 03.08.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Matti Vigrahalatho Paryavarana Parirakshana. Namasthe Telengana, 3.8.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Matti Vinayaka Vigrahalatho Paryavarananni Kapadandi…. Andhra Prabha,

3.8.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Paryavarana Parirakshanaku Prathi Okkaru Krushi Cheyali. Surya, 3.8.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Matti Vigrahalane Pettandi. Andhra Bhoomi, 3.8.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Kaalushya Nivaranaku Nadum Biginchali… Shakshi, 3.8.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Matti Vinayakulatho Kaalushya Nivarana. Eenadu, 3.8.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Paryavarana Parirakshana Prathi Okkari Badhyatha. Vaartha, 3.8.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Kaalushya Niyanthrana Prajala Chethullone Vundi…. Andhra Jyothi, 3.8.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Paryavarananni Parirakshinchali. Andhra Jyothi, 19.8.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Paryavarana Parirakshana Vudyamumlo Chepattali. Eenadu, 19.8.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Matti Vinayaka Vigrahale Melu. Sakshi, 19.8.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Rasayana Vigrahalu Vadhu, Matti Vigrahalu Mudhu. Vaartha, 19.8.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Bhalaa….Vinayaka Matti Prathimala Mela!. Andhra Jyothi, 20.8.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Paryavarana anukula ganapathulaku prothsaham. Eenadu, 25.08.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Matti Vigrahalane Vaadudaam. Shakshi, 25.08.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Paryavarananni Premiddam.. Matti vigrahalanu Poojiddam.. Andhra Jyothi,

25.8.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Rangulatho Paryavarananiki Haani Kaliginchakand............... Andhra Jyothi,

25.08.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Matti Vigrahalane Vaadudaam… Shakshi, 25.8.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Avagahana Sadhassu. Andhra Jyothi, 31.8.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Matti Ganapathea Maha Ganapathi. Andhra Jyothi, 31.8.11.

Devi A S. 2011. Pushpalu Phalalatho Merupulu. Eenadu, 29.12.11.

Devi A S. 2012. Go Natural This Holi. The Hindu, 17.2.12.

Devi A S.2012. Eco-Colours. The Hindu, 24.2.12.

Devi A S. 2012. Aanundhallo Theli. Eenadu, 4.3.12.

Devi A S. 2012. Antha Rangalu. Eenadu, 8.3.12.

Devi A S. 2012. NG Ranga Varsitiki Prasamsa Pathrum. Andhra Jyothi, 20.7.12.

Devi A S. 2012. Sahaja Rangulatho Vupadhi. Eenadu,7.8.12.

Devi A S. 2012. Sahaja Rangullo Upadhi (in Natural Dyes). Eenadu, 07.09.12.

Devi A S. 2013. Riot of Colors Marks Holi. The Hindu, 20.3.13.

99

Devi A S.2013. Sahaja Rangula Holi. Sakshi, 26.3.13.

Devi A S. 2013. Holi Kaaraadu Kanneti Keli. Eenadu, 26.3.13.

Devi A S. 2013. Eco-Friendly Colours for Holi. The Hindu, 26.3.13.

Devi A S. 2013. Holi Plans Tuned To Water Availability. Deccan Chronicle, 26.3.13.

Devi A S. 2013. Agri-Investors Meet to Be Held In Delhi. The Sunday Guardian, 14.7.13.

Devi A S. 2013. Agri-Tech Investors Meet 2013. The Sunday Guardian, 18.7.13.

Devi A S. 2013. Vunatha Parvatha Sreni Pranthallo Marinni Parishodhanalu. Eenadu, 28.7.13.

Devi A S. 2013. Rangula Parisramalo Aardhikabhivrudhi. Sakshi, 28.7.13.

Devi A S. 2013. Mandharam Erupu Ganapathiki Merupu. Eenadu, 2.9.13.

Devi A S. 2014. Daraniki Merupulu. Enadu, 16.1.14.

Devi A S. 2014. 5 Nunchi Natural Dyes pi Workshop. Sakshi, 23.2.14.

Devi A S. 2014. Adire.. Adire.. Style Adire.. Namaste Telengana, 7.3.14.

Devi A S. 2014. Katti Padesaru. Enadu, 7.3.14.

Devi A S. 2014. Show Araraho. Sakshi, 7.3.14.

Devi A S. 2014. Dye Another Day. Times of India, 10.3.14

Devi A S. 2014. Zindagi- Vasantha Keri. Namaste Telengana, 17.3.14.

Devi A S. 2014. Natural Colours. Vijaya Kala, 1.4.14

Technical Bulletins:

Devi A S. Status of Natural Dyes. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. Natural Dye Shades on Cotton. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. Natural Dye Shades on Silk. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. Natural Dye Shades on Banana . NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. Annatto – A Natural Dye source for textiles. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. Arjun Bark– A Natural Dye source for textiles. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU,

Hyderabad.

Devi A S. Butea Flower– A Natural Dye source for textiles. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU,

Hyderabad.

Devi A S. Butea gum– A Natural Dye source for textiles. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU,

Hyderabad.

Devi A S. Eucalyptus– A Natural Dye source for textiles. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU,

Hyderabad.

Devi A S. Eclipta– A Natural Dye source for textiles. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. Marigold– A Natural Dye source for textiles. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. Indigo– A Natural Dye source for textiles. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. Dyeing with Natural Dyes. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. Printing with Natural Dyes. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. Eco-powders from Natural Sources. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. Eco-paints from Natural Sources. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

100

13. Media Products Developed/Disseminated

Devi A S. 2012. Dyeing Textiles with Natural Dyes. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. 2012. Preparation of Eco-holi Powders. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. 2013. Painting Idols with Natural Dyes. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. 2014. Natural Dye Shades on Cotton. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. 2014. Natural Dye Shades on Silk. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Folder/Leaflet/Handout:

Devi A S. 2009. Natural Dyes for Idol Painting. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. 2009. Annato – A Natural Source of Orange Colour for Textiles. NAIP-VCND,

ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. 2009. Ecipta Prostrata – A Natural Source of Green Colour for Textiles. NAIP-VCND,

ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. 2009. Red Silk Cotton – A Natural Source of Russet Colour for Textiles. NAIP-

VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. 2010. Eco-Holi – A Safe Healthy Way Of Celebration With Natural Dye Gulals.

NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. 2010. Selection & Storage Methods of Natural Dye Sources. NAIP-VCND,

ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Rao U S and Devi A S. 2011. Kalamkari Block Printing with Natural Dyes. NAIP-VCND,

ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. 2013. Natural Extraction Unit at RARS, Chintapally. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU,

Hyderabad.

Devi A S. 2013. Technology – Eco-Textiles. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. 2013. Technology – Eco-Paints. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

Devi A S. 2013. Technology – Eco-Powders. NAIP-VCND, ANGRAU, Hyderabad.

14. Meetings/Seminars/Trainings/Kisan Mela, etc. organized

I. Lead- CPI, NAIP-VCND

Sl.

No.

Details of

Meetings/Seminars/T

rainings, etc.

Duration

(From-To)

No. of

Personnel

Trained

Budget

(Rs.)

Organizer

(Name &

Address)

1 Dyeing with Natural

Dyes

20-24 April,

2009 30 4500

ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

2 Collection, Storages,

extraction and

08-10 June,

2009 25 3000

ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

101

application of natural

dye sources and dyes

3

Making Banana fibre

handcrafts dyed with

natural dyes

25 June to

25 July,

2009

118 50000 ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

4 Dye extraction from

Eucalyptus bark

01 July,

2009 24 2000

5

Dyeing of banana fibre

using different natural

dye source

16- 18 July,

2009 35 6000

ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

6 Eco-paints for clay

ganesh idols

12 August,

2009 70 1000

ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

7

Painting of clay idols

with natural dyes and

eco-powders

28 August,

2009 22 500

ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

8 Training to artisans

15

December,

2009

10 600 ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

9

Collection,

preservation of natural

dye sources and their

uses

23-25

February,

2010

30 10000 ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

10 Kalamkari Block

Printing

25 March to

18 May,

2010

40 1,46,000

ANGRAU &

M/s Shyamal

Handlooms

11 Making of Banana

handicrafts

19 July to

23 August,

2010

25 32000 ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

12 Dyeing banana fiber

for making handicrafts

03-05

August,

2010

25 4000 ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

13 Natural dyeing on

Cotton and silk

26 August,

2010 17 1020

ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

14 Natural dyes for silk

and cotton

27

September

to 02

October,

2010

20 10000 ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

15 Dyeing Sisal fibre

with natural dyes

18

September,

2010

25 250 ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

16 Eco-holi colours 25-27 25 40000 ANGRAU,

102

October,

2010

Hyderabad

17 Eco-holi colours from

nature

22-24

November,

2010

42 12000 ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

18 Dyeing of silk with

Natural dyes

26-28

November,

2010

30 25000 ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

19

Dyeing banana and

cotton yarn with

natural sources

26

December

2010 to 12

January

2011

15 73000 ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

20 Dyeing with natural

dyes on cotton yarn

31

December,

2010 to 02

January,

2011

20 10000 ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

21

Pen Kalamkari

Printing with Natural

Colours

28 February

to 31

March,

2011

30 99,600

ANGRAU &

M/s Shyamal

Handlooms,

Chirala

22 Preparation of Eco-

powders

24-26

February,

2011

56 20000 ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

23

Training to farmers on

indigo and marigold

cultivation

10 October,

2011 110 12000

ARS, Utukur

ANGRAU

24

Dyeing Cotton and

silk yarn with natural

dyes

06-08

January,

2012

15 2000 ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

25 Eco-powders, Eco-

paints and Eco-textiles

04-07

March,

2013

30 30000 ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

26 Dyeing cotton and silk

yarn

06-07 May,

2013 15 6000

ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

27

Procurement and link

up with dyers and

Kalamkari painters

10-14

September,

2013

200 10000 ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

28 Kalamkari block

printing with Natural

10

December, 25 1,80,000

ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

103

dyes 2013 to 10

January,

2014

29 Wooden toys- New

Prospects

20th

to 22nd

January,

2014

150 - Dept of crafts,

Govt of A.P

II. Partner- M/s Shyamal Handlooms, Chirala

Sl.

No.

Details of

Meetings/Seminars/

Trainings, etc.

Duration

(From-To)

No. of

Personnel

Trained

Budget

(Rs.)

Organizer

(Name &

Address)

1 Hand & Block

Kalamkari printing

05 February

to 28th

March, 2009

27 15000 M/s Shyamal

Handlooms

2 Hand & Block

Kalamkari printing

02

September to

26 October,

2009


Handlooms

3 Kalamkari Block

Printing

25 March to

18 May,

2010

40 1,46,000

ANGRAU &

M/s Shyamal

Handlooms

4 Extraction of Natural

Dyes

01 February

to 04 March,

2011

20 20000

M/s Shyamal

Handlooms,

Chirala

5

Pen Kalamkari


Colours

28 February

to 31 March,

2011 30 99,600

ANGRAU &

M/s Shyamal

Handlooms,

Chirala

6 Hand & Block

Kalamkari printing

5th

May to

28th

June

2012


Handlooms

7

Pen Kalamkari


Colours

10th

September to

30th

October,

2012

30 20000

ANGRAU &

M/s Shyamal

Handlooms,

Chirala

104

8 Natural Dyeing on

Hank in 4 shades

22-30 April,

2013 10 3000

M/s Shyamal

Handlooms,

Chirala

15.Participation in Conference/ Meetings/Trainings/ Radio talks, etc.

Sl.

No.

Details of

Meetings/Seminars/

Trainings/Radio talk,

etc.(Name &Address)

Duration

(From-To)

Budget

(Rs.)

Participant

(Name & Address)

1. Training on “Analytical

chemistry for life science

students-

To acquire hands-on skill in

qualitative and quantitative

chemical analysis of natural

dyes, IIT, FEAT lab, Kanpur

10-21

November,

2008

10000

Dr. A. Sharada Devi, CPI

Ms. S. Lakshmi Pooja, RA

Ms. A. Poornima, RA

2. International Conference on

Emerging Trends in

Production, Processing and

Utilization of Natural Fibres

16-18

April, 2009 10000


3. Multimedia training on CAD

Programme

18-23 May,

2009 40000



Ms. A. Poornima, RA

4. National seminar on Natural

Fibres of India at ANGRAU,

Hyderabad

28 October,

2009 Nil


5.

Training on Textronics

software – Jaquard module

17-21 July,

2012 15442



Ms. A. Poornima, RA

Ms. D. Harini, SRF

6. Training on Textronics

software – Design Studio

module

7-12

August,

2012

15442



Ms. A. Poornima, RA

Ms. D. Harini, SRF

7.

8. Training on Nanotechnology,

CIRCOT, Mumbai

22-26 April

2013 82725

Dr. A. Sharada Devi

Ms. A. Poornima, RA &

Ms. D. Harini, SRF

9. Training on Indigo dyeing 2-5 5000 M. Sireesha, SRF&

105

process & Kalamkari printing

process, Chirala

September

2013

Ms. S. Dhana Lakshmi

SRF

10. Meeting on „Brainstorming

session on effective utilization

of Non-timber products‟

Forest Research Institute,

Dullapally, Near Medchal,

Hyderabad

8

November

2013

Nil Dr. A. Sharada Devi, CPI

11. Presented a Paper on „Natural

Dyes‟

Exhibited natural dye sources

and products

World Telugu Conference

2012, Tirupathi

27-29

December

2012

35000



Ms. A. Poornima, RA

Ms. D. Harini SRF

12. National Indian Agricultural

Business incubation

Conference (NIABI) 2013

Hitex, Hyderabad

26 April

2013 --



13. National seminar on Natural

Dyes organized by NIRD,

Hyderabad

25th

November

2013

Nil Dr. A. Sharada Devi, CPI

1. Foreign Trainings/ Undertaken (National/ International)

S.no Name,

Designation and

Address of

the Person

Place of

Training

Area of Training Time

and

Duration

Total Cost

(`)

Dr. A. Sharada

Devi,

CPI, NAIP- Value

Chain in Natural

Dyes

Department of

Apparel &

Textiles,

College of Home

Science, Saifabad

Hyderabad

University

of

Tennessee,

Knoxville,

USA

Training on “Size

reduction of Natural

Dye particle using

nanotechnology” for

March

29th to

May 6th

2010

37 days

3.99591

106

2. Performance Indicators (from inception to completion)

S.

No. Indicator Total No.

1. No. of production technologies released and/or adopted 2

2. No. of processing technologies released and/or adopted 4

3. Number of technologies/products commercialized based on NAIP

research 2

4. No. of new rural industries/enterprises established/ upgraded 5

5. No. of product groups for which quality grades developed and agreed 3

6. Total no. of private sector organizations (including NGOs)

participating in consortium 10

7. No. of farmers involved in consortia activities 2

8. Total number of farmers‟ group developed for marketing and

processing 2

9. Number of patent/intellectual property protection applications filed

based on NAIP research 4

10. Number of patents/intellectual property protections granted/published

based on NAIP research

11. Number of scientists trained overseas in the frontier areas of science 1

12. Number of scientists trained overseas in consortium-based subject

areas

13. No. of scientists participated in conference/seminar etc. abroad 1

14. No. of training organized/ farmers trained

Traini

ng No

100

Farmers

No.

1500

15. Success stories 5

16. Incremental employment generated (person days/year/HH) Baseline Final

1068 1475

17. Increase in income of participating households (` per annum) Baseline Final

61500 242500

18. Number of novel tools/protocols/methodologies developed 2

Publications

1 Articles in NAAS rated journals 7

2 Articles in other journals 4

3 Book(s) 3

4 Book chapter(s) 3

5 Thesis 4

6 Popular article(s) (English) 5

7 Newspaper article(s) 100

107

8 Seminar/Symposium/Conference/Workshop Proceedings 5

9 Technical bulletin(s) 16

10 Manual(s) 6

11 CDs/Videos 5

12 Popular article(s) in other language 1

13 Folder/Leaflet/Handout 11

14 Report(s) 18

3. Employment Generation (man-days/year)

S. No. Type of Employment Generation Employment

Generation up

to End of Sub-

project

Responsible

Partner

1 Mari gold cultivation

280 ARS, ANGRAU,

Utukur

2 Indigo cultivation 280 ARS, ANGRAU,

Utukur

3 Natural dye sources (collection)- 80 RARS,

ANGRAU,

Chintapalle

4 Natural dye extraction

90 RARS,

ANGRAU,

Chintapalle

5 Natural dye dyers 220 ANGRAU

6 Eco powders production 230 ANGRAU

7 Eco paints production, and packing 135 ANGRAU

8 Eco paint application (idols) 170 ANGRAU

9 Textile products- sarees, dress materials, strolls

etc.

210 ANGRAU

10 Handicrafts (Banana and lacquer doll) 240 ANGRAU

11 Banana fibre 100 ANGRAU

4. Assets Generated

(Details to be given on equipments and works undertaken in the sub-project, costing more

than Rs 10,000/- in each case)

108

(i) Equipment/ Vehicles/ Research Facilities

S.No. Name of the equipments with

manufacturers name, model

and Sr.No.

Year of

purchase

Qty

(Nos.)

Total

cost

(Rs.)

Responsible

consortium

1. Bursting strength tester

Mfrs: Paramount instruments, New

Delhi

Model: DigiBurst

2008-09 1 149625 ANGRAU

2. Torsion balance

Ahmedabad

2008-09 1 58550 ANGRAU

3. Projectina

Mfrs: Paramount instruments, New

Delhi

Digivision

2008-09 1 148500 ANGRAU

4. Digital camera

Mfrs: Sony: Model DSC W220,

2008-09 1 12400 ANGRAU

5. Abrasion tester

Mfrs: Paramount Instruments

Model: Martindale Tester ITM

New

Delhi

2008-09 1 169875 ANGRAU

6. Pentium computer with accessories-

Printer, scanner, UPS etc.

Mfrs: e-studio, Toshiba,

Secunderabad

2008-09 1 74890 ANGRAU

7. Electrical weighing balance

Mfrs: Weighman

Model: Smart Scale 901, Hyderabad

2008-09 1 51064 ANGRAU

8. Launder-o-meter


Model : Digiwash NxTM, New

Delhi

2008-09 1 164250 ANGRAU

9. Flamability tester


Model: Digiflame, New Delhi

2008-09 1 153000 ANGRAU

10. Laptop Mfrs: Dell, 2008-09 1 57200 ANGRAU

11. Martindale Abrasion Tester

(Paramount instruments)

2008-09 1 1,69,875 ANGRAU

12. Xenon arc/ Fad-o-meter

Model: XenoTest 150+

Mfrs: Atlas, Germany

2009–10 1 2020000 ANGRAU

13. HPLC & Accessories

Mfrs: CAMAG, Switzerland

2009–10 1 2000000 ANGRAU

109

14. Steam chamber with accessories

Mfrs: R. B. Electronic &

Engiineering Pvt Ltd.

2009-10 1 214875 ANGRAU

15. Ultra sonicator

Mfrs: Citizen, Secunderabad

2009-10 1 73125 ANGRAU

16. Dryer with 12 trays

Mfrs: Shanti Scientific Instruments,

Secunderabad

2009-10 1 159750 ANGRAU

17. Spray dryer

Mfrs: Jay Instruments & System Pvt.

Ltd, Mumbai

2009-10 1 817674 ANGRAU

18. Cabinet Dyeing & Accessories

Mfrs: SS fabs, Salem

2009-10 1 653662 ANGRAU

19. Winch Dyeing unit

Mfrs: R. B. Electronic &

Engiineering Pvt Ltd.

2009-10 1 384750 ANGRAU

20. Atmospheric conditioning unit

Mfrs: Bionics, Secunderabad

2009-10 1 1096875 ANGRAU

21. UV Spectrophotometer along with

color lab + colour matching software

Mfrs: Premiercolor scan

2010-11 1 486000 ANGRAU

22. Ultrasonic processor with

accessories

Mfrs: Sonics Vibracell,

Secunderabad

2010-11 1 347680 ANGRAU

23. Commercial Grinder

(M/s Lakshmi)

2011-12 1 30,400 ANGRAU

24. Centrifuge

(Eppendrof)

2011-12 1 1,98,500 ANGRAU

25. Spray drier, M/s Bionics,

Hyderabad

2013-14 1 5,04,000 ANGRAU

26. Pulversier-Dry, M/s Bionics,

Hyderabad

2013-14 1 1,99,500 ANGRAU

27. Boiler, M/s Sri Ganesh

Enterprises, Hyderabad

2013-14 1 8,87,250 ANGRAU

28. Natural dye extraction unit, Sri

Ganesh Enterprises, Hyderabad

2013-14 1 3,02,400 ANGRAU

29. Evaporator, M/s Hydro

Engineering works, Ahmedabad

2013-14 1 6,50,000 ANGRAU

Pilot Plant Equipment

1. Pulversiser


2009-10 1 118000 ANGRAU

110

2. Dye Extraction Unit


2009-10 1 500000 ANGRAU

3. Weighing scale

Mfrs: Tulaman, Secunderabad

2009-10 1 18000 ANGRAU

4. Dye bath


2009-10 1 41500 ANGRAU

5. Steam boiler


2009-10 1 84000 ANGRAU

6. Steeping vessels


2009-10 1 21500 ANGRAU

7. Spray drier


2009-10 1 1230000 ANGRAU

Consortium Partners : M/s Shyamal Handlooms, Chirala

1. Crockmeter

M/S Paramount Instruments Pvt.

Ltd., Delhi

2009-10 1 298125 M/s Shyamal

Handlooms, Chirala

2. Perspirometer


Ltd., New Delhi - 110 063, India

2009-10 1 29925 M/s Shyamal

Handlooms, Chirala

3. Blue wool patterns



2009-10 1 149625 M/s Shyamal

Handlooms, Chirala

4. Launder-o-meter



2009-10 1 164250 M/s Shyamal

Handlooms, Chirala

5. Computer (1no) with accessories,

UPS, Printer

M/S Sai Computers, Chirala

2009-10 1 43200 M/s Shyamal

Handlooms, Chirala

6. Pulversiser 910-15 kg/hour

capacity)

M/S Global Enterprises,

Hyderabad - 500 018

2009-10 1 86596 M/s Shyamal

Handlooms, Chirala

7. Cabinet Dyeing Machine with

boiler

M/s S.S. Fabs, Salem - 636 002

2009-10 1 1010515 M/s Shyamal

Handlooms, Chirala

8. grey scale 2010-11 1 17250 M/s Shyamal

111



Handlooms, Chirala

9. Water softner

M/S Unique Aqua Solutions, 2-2-

3/228, Hyderabad - 44, A.P.

2010-11 1 49920 M/s Shyamal

Handlooms, Chirala

(ii) Works

S. No. Particulars of the work, name

and address of agency

awarded the work

Year of

work done

Qty

(Nos.)

Total cost

(Rs.)

Responsible

consortium

1. i. Renovation of NAIP office

M/s Narayana, H.no. MIG

(OG), B - 3, F-2,

Baghlingampally, Hyderabad

ii. Extension of lab

ANGRAU, Hyderabad

Total

2008-09 1 no

1 no

99867

700000

799867

ANGRAU

2. Construction of Indigo

extraction plant (ARS, Utukur)

Phase I

M/s Sri P. Mallikarjuna Reddy,

2/227-6A, Balaji nagar, Kadapa

Phase II

M/s A. V. mohan reddy, F. no.

108, Shanti apartments, Bhagya

Colony, Kadapa

Phase III

M/s A. Veera Reddy, F.no. 301,

Seshadri Residency, M B

Colony, Kadapa

2009-10 1 no 244295 ANGRAU

3. Construction of storage and

working space in the shed

(RARS, Chintapally)

2009-10 1 no 200000 ANGRAU

112

Earth work

M/s G. Ramana, Class IV

contractor, Chintapalle

Supply of fabrication material

M/s Suresh engineering works,

12-22-10B, Anakapalle - 531

001, Visakhapatnam district

Fabrication, electrical and

labour charges

M/s Suresh engineering works,

12-22-10B, Anakapalle - 531

001, Visakhapatnam district

Consortium Partners : M/s Shyamal Handlooms, Chirala

4. Work shed,

Sri Asadi Siva Reddy,

Beldarimestry, Andhra Rathna

Road, Perala, Chirala – 523157

2008-09 1 0.50000 M/s

Shyamal

Handlooms,

Chirala

Livestock: NIL

(Details of livestock procured/produced in the sub-project) NA

S. No. Details of Livestock

(Breed, etc.)

Year of

Procurement/Production

Nos. Total

Cost (`)

Responsible

Partner

(iii) Revenue Generated

(Details may be given on revenue generated in the sub-project viz., sale of seeds, farm

produce, products, patents, commercialization, training, etc.)

S. No. Source of Revenue Year Total amount

(`in lakhs)

Responsible

Partner

1. Sale of Eco-textiles, Eco-powders

& Eco-paints

2010-11 1.10 ANGRAU


& Eco-paints

2011-12 2.42 ANGRAU


& Eco-paints

2012-13 1.21 ANGRAU

Total 4.73

113

5. Awards and Recognitions (copy enclosed in Annexure VI)

S. No. Name,

Designation,

Address of

the Person

Award/

Recognition (with

Date)

Institution/ Society

Facilitating (Name &

Address)

Responsible

Partner

1. Dr. A. Sharada Devi,

CPI, College of Home

Science, Saifabad,

Hyderabad

Certificate of

Appreciation from

ICAR

ANGRAU & M/s

Shyamal Handlooms

ANGRAU

2. Dr. A. Sharada Devi,

CPI

College of Home

Science, Saifabad,

Hyderabad

Certificate of

Appreciation 2013

from Government

of Taiwan

Director of National

Taiwan Craft Research

and Development

Institute, Government of

Taiwan

ANGRAU

3. His Excellency, the

Governor of Andhra

Pradesh

Sri Narasimhan

Commendation

certificate

Governor Office

Rajbhavan, Hyderabad

ANGRAU

6. Steps Undertaken for Post NAIP Sustainability

Addressing the gaps in the value chain like establishing natural dye market at Pedana

Incorporating natural dye practices in the Govt programmes as priority

Exclusive certification from PCB for natural dyeing units

Promotion of branding

Encourage NGOs and corporates to include natural dye activities and establish incubation

centres

Formulation of bankable projects and inclusion in the list of projects for providing

microfinance

Technology transfer to the potential industries/ artisans and issue of licenses

Focus on bringing awareness in consumers for use of eco-friendly natural dye products

Create demand for the products through campaigns

Demonstrate the business on natural dye products being highly profitable

Impress the Govt to support exclusive market for natural dye products

7. Possible Future Line of Work

(Comments/suggestions of CPI regarding possible future line of work that may be taken up

arising out of this sub-project)

Refinement and purification of natural dye powder

114

Scaling up the technology for adoption at industrial level

Identification / development of suitable machinery for dyeing with natural dyes

Refinement of dyeing technology and reducing the production costs and water

consumption

Direct printing with natural dyes

The project can provide technical assistance in dyeing natural fibres such as wool

(Pashmina) and linen etc.

Utilization of by-products from other projects- Pomegranate rind, Bark, Lac etc.

Application of nanotechnology in natural dye field

Launching a web portal for providing access to advances in natural dye issues

Inclusion of natural dye technology in the academic programmes

8. Personnel

(Staff of Lead Centre & Partner-wise, their Name, Designation, Discipline and Duration)

From – To (DD/MM/YYYY)

Research Management (CL)

1. Dr. P. Raghava Reddy, VC 20/08/2008 to 31/01/2011

2. I Nagi Reddy, IAS 01/02/2011 to 28/02/2013

3. Dr. A. Padma Raju 01/03/2013 and continuing

Scientific (CPI, CCPI, others)

4. Dr. A. Sharada Devi, CPI 20/08/2008 to 31/03/2014

5. Mr. U. Subha Rao, Co PI 20/08/2008 to 31/03/2014

Technical (CPI, CCPI, others)

6. Dr. A. Sharada Devi, CPI 20/08/2008 to 31/03/2014

7. Dr. G. P. Sunanandini,

Associate PI,

20/08/2008 to 31/03/2014

8. Dr. P. Amala Kumari, Associate

PI

20/08/2008 to 31/03/2014

Contractual (CPI, CCPI, others)

9. S. L. Pooja, R A 08/10/2008 to 04/05/2013

10. A. Poornima R A 08/10/2008 to 10/05/2013

11. A. Aruna Priya, SRF 08/10/2008 to 10/09/2010

12. D. Harini, SRF 01/09/2011 to 20/05/2013

13. D. Harini, RA 21/05/2013 to 31.03.2014

14. R. Prabhavathi, SRF 01/06/2013 to 10/07/2013

15. Sununda RK, RA 1/07/2013 to 31/03.2014

16. S. Dhanalaxmi, SRF 11/08/2013 to 31.03.2014

17. A. Vanajakshi, O.A 01/10/2008 to 31.03.2014

18. Mrs. Vijaya Krupa, RA

(Chirala)

01/12/2008 to 31/03/2012

115

19. Ms. Madavi, RA (Chirala) 01/05/2013 to 31/03/2014

20. Mr. K. Kiran, SRF

(Chintapalle)

10/02/2009 to 11/06/2010

21. Mr. G. Trinadha Rao, SRF

(Chintapalle)

01/07/2010 to 31/01/2011

22. Mr. T Narayana Reddy

(Chintapalle)

15/02/2011 to 31/03/2012

9.Governance, Management, Implementation and Coordination

A. Composition of the various committees (CIC, CAC, CMU, etc.)

S. No. Committee

Name

Chairman

(From-To)

Members

(From-To)

1. CIC

2. CAC 20th

August 2008 to

31st March 2014

20th

August 2008 to 03rd

December

2009 (5 members excluding Ex-

office members)

20th

August 2008 to 31st March

2014 (2 members excluding Ex-

office members)

B. List of Meetings organized (CIC, CAC, CMU, etc.)

S. No. Details of

the meeting

Date Place & Address (Where meeting

was organized)

1. CIC 6th

of April 2009 ANGRAU, Hyderabad

6th

of June 2009 ANGRAU, Hyderabad

6th

of August 2009 ANGRAU, Hyderabad

6th

of October 2009 ANGRAU, Hyderabad

6th

of November 2009 ANGRAU, Hyderabad

6th

of January 2010 ANGRAU, Hyderabad

2. CAC 20th

August 2008

NAIP – VCND, College of Home

Science, Saifabad, Hyderabad

28th

February 2009



21st April 2009



23rd May 2009 ICRISAT, Hyderabad

3rd December 2009 NAIP – VCND, College of Home

116


20th

February 2010



17th

September 2010 M/s Shyamal Handlooms, Chirala

9th

January 2012



117

Part-III: Budget and its Utilization

STATEMENT OF EXPENDITURE (Final)

(Period from 08.06.2008 to 31.03.2014)

(Date of start) (Date of completion)

Sanction Letter No. F.No.1(5)2007-NAIP. Dt.10/6/2008

Total Sub-project Cost `344.2405

Sanctioned/Revised Sub-project cost (if applicable) `452.35

Date of Commencement of Sub-project 20/08/2008

Duration: From 8/06/2008 to 31/03/2014 (DD/MM/YYYY)

Funds Received in each year

I Year ` 65.81

II Year `139.24753

III Year `50.87078

Bank Interest received on fund (if any) `Nil

Total amount received `395.46311

Total expenditure ` 427.23717

Expenditure Head-wise:

118

ANGRAU

Sanctioned

heads

Funds

alloca

ted

Funds released Total

expendi

ture

Expenditure incurred Total

expendi

ture

Bala

nce

as on

31.12

.13

Require

ment of

addition

al funds

Rema

rks

1st

yr

2nd

yr

3rd

yr

4th

yr

5th

yr

6th

yr 1st yr

2nd

yr

3rd

yr 4th yr 5th yr 6th yr

T.A

6.28

0.5

7

0.85 1.24 1.41 1.06 1.15 6.28 0.561

64

0.854

98

1.243

34

1.414

28

1.062

04

1.188

43 6.32471 0

1.15

Workshops

25.15

1.2

5

0.93 2 1.69 1.28 3.0 10.15 1.252

52

0.927

74

1.997

67

1.689

32

1.278

12

1.038

19 8.18356

0.468

18

16.50

Contractual

48.63

3.4 8.72 9.72 10.6

5

9.59 6.55 48.63 3.402

61

8.723

17

9.716

15

10.64

875

9.588 6.309

57

48.3882

5 0

3.00

Operational

Costs

130.6

9

23.

58

17.3

2

18.8

2

13.3

1

14.46 21.6 109.09 23.57

942

17.32

144

18.81

72

13.30

554

14.46

088

21.6 109.084

48 0

19.85

Sub-Total of

A(1-4)

210.7

5

28.

8

27.8

2

31.7

8

27.0

6 26.39 32.3

174.15 28.79

619

27.82

733

31.77

436

27.05

789

26.38

904

30.13

619 171.981

0.468

18 40.50

International 2.5 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

National

Training 7.22

1.0 0.98 2.04 1.2 0 0 5.22 1 0.977 2.041

8

1.195

69

0 0

5.21449 0 0

Consultency 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Sub-Total of

B(5-6) 9.72 1 0.98 2.04 1.2 0 0

5.22

1 0.977

2.041

8

1.195

69 0 0 5.21449 0 0

Equipment 144.3

7

10.

54

95.2 8.34 2.29 0 28.0

0

144.37 10.54

317

95.20

351

8.336

8

2.289 0 25.43

150

141.803

98

2.566

02 0

Furniture

1.25

1.2

5

0 0 0 0 0 1.25 1.25 0 0 0 0 0

1.25 0 0

Works(new)

renovation 12.5

8.0 4.5 0 0 0 0 12.5 7.998

67

4.5 0 0 0 0 12.4986

7 0 0

Books

1.8

0 0.9 0.45 0.45 0 0 1.8 0 0.898

91

0.447

08

0.449

86

0 0

1.79585 0 0

Sub total of C

(7-10)

159.9

2

19.

79

100.

6 8.79 2.74 0

28.0

0

159.92 19.79

184

100.6

024

8.783

88

2.738

86 0

25.43

15

157.348

5

2.566

02 0

Institutional

Charges 19.1

3.4

8

2.09 3.58 3.11 0.410

35

3.08 15.7503

5

3.48 2.09 3.58 3.108

4

0.410

35

3.08 15.7487

5 0 0

Grand total

399.4

9

53.

07

131.

49

46.1

9

34.1

1 26.8

63.3

8

355.040

4

53.06

803

131.4

968

46.18

004

34.10

084

26.80

019

58.64

769

350.292

74

3.034

2 40.50

119

M/s Shyamal Handlooms

Sanctioned

heads

Funds

alloca

ted

Funds released

Total

Relea

se

Expenditure incurred

Total

expendit

ure

Balan

ce as

on

31.12.

13

Require

ment of

additiona

l funds

Rema

rks 1st yr

2nd

yr

3rd

yr

4th

yr

5th

yr

6th

yr 1st yr 2nd yr 3rd yr 4th yr 5th yr 6th yr

T.A

1.9

0.25 0.4

0

0.2

7

0.3

7

0.03

75

0.0

0

1.33 0.247

23

0.3478

0

0.272

93

0.365

87

0.015

75

0.00

1.24958 0

0.15

Workshops

0

0.00 0.0

0

0.0

0

0.0

0

0.00 0.0

0

0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00

0.00 0

0.00

Contractual 15.12

8

1.01 2.3 3.1

1

3.1

1

0 1.4

10

10.9

40

1.012

75

2.2950 3.105 3.105 0.00 1.661

94 11.1796

9 0

0.92

Operational

Costs 15.3

1.38 3.1

1

3.3

5

1.0

3

0.25 1.0

0

10.1

2

1.358

03

2.6892

5

3.348

89

1.023

73

0.00 0.536

8.9559 0.464

0.60

Sub-Total of

A(1-4) 32.32

8

2.64 5.8

1

6.7

3

4.5

1

0.28

75

2.4

1

22.3

9

2.618

01

5.3320

5

6.726

82

4.494

6

0.015

75

2.197

94 21.3851

7 0.464 1.67

International 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

National

Training 2.5

0.0 0 0.75 0 0 0 0.75 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0

Consultency 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Sub-Total of

B(5-6) 2.5 0 0 0.75 0 0 0

0.75

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Equipment 15.25 15.25 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 15.25 0.023

70

14.281

99

0.671

7

0.00 0.00 0.0000

0

14.9773

9

0

0

Furniture 0.25 0.25 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.25 0.236

10

0.0135 0.00 0.00 0.00 0

0.24960 0 0

Works(new)

renovation

0.50 0.50 0.0

0

0.0

0

0.0

0

0.00 0.0

0

0.50 0.500

00

0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0

0.50000 0 0

Books 0.20 0.05 0.0

5

0.0

5

0.0

5

0.00 0.0

0

0.20 0.036

83

0.0285

5

0.003

7

0.00 0.00 0

0.06908 0 0

Sub total of C

(7-10)

16.20 16.0

5

0.0

5

0.0

5

0.0

5

0.00 0.0

0

16.2

0

0.796

63

14.324

04

0.675

4

0.00 0.00 0.0000

0

15.7960

7 0 0

Institutiona

l Charges 1.41

0.13

5

0.3

2

0.3

1

0.4

9

0.00 0.0

2

1.27

5

0.133

15

0.3209

8

0.306

53

0.486

26

0.00 0.029

43 1.27635 0 0.48

Grand total 52.44 18.83 6.18 7.84 5.05 0.29 2.43 40.61 3.55 19.98 7.71 4.98 0.02 2.23 38.46 0.46 2.15

120

Consolidated Expenditure Pattern

Sanctioned

heads

Funds

allocat

ed

Funds released Total

expendit

ure

Expenditure incurred Total

expendit

ure

Balan

ce as

on

31.12.

13

Require

ment of

additiona

l funds

Rema

rks

1st

yr

2nd

yr

3rd

yr

4th

yr

5th

yr

6th

yr

1st

yr

2nd

yr

3rd

yr

4th

yr

5th

yr

6th

yr

T.A 8.18

0.82 1.25 1.51 1.78 1.0975 1.15 7.6075 0.8088

7

1.2027

8

1.5162

7

1.7801

5

1.0777

9

1.1884

3 7.57429 0.00

1.30

Workshops 25.15

1.25 0.93 2.00 1.69 1.28 3.00 10.15 1.2525

2

0.9277

4

1.9976

7

1.6893

2

1.2781

2

1.0381

9 8.18356 0.46818

16.50

Contractual 63.758

4.41 11.02 12.83 13.76 9.59 7.96 59.57 4.4153

6

11.008

17

12.821

15

13.753

75

9.588 7.9715

1 59.55794 0.00

3.92

Operational

Costs 145.99

24.96 20.43 22.17 14.34 14.71 22.6 119.21 24.937

45

20.010

69

22.166

09

14.329

27

14.460

88

22.136

118.04038 0.464

20.45

Sub-Total of

A(1-4) 243.078 31.44 33.63 38.51 31.57

26.677

5 34.71

196.5375 31.414

2

33.149

38

38.501

18

31.552

49

26.404

79

32.334

13 193.35617 0.93218 42.17

International 2.5 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00

National

Training 9.72

1.0 0.98 2.79 1.2

0.00 0.00

5.97 1 0.977 2.0418 1.1956

9 0.00 0.00 5.21449 0.00 0.00

Consultency 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00

Sub-Total of

B(5-6) 12.22 1.00 0.98 2.79 1.2 0.00 0.00

5.97

1 0.977 2.0418

1.1956

9 0.00 0.00 5.21449 0.00 0.00

Equipment 159.62

25.79 95.2 8.34 2.29

0.00

28.00 159.62 10.566

87

109.48

55

9.0085 2.289

0.00

25.431

50 156.78137

2.56602

0.00

Furniture 1.50 1.50

0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 1.50 1.4861 0.0315

0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 1.5176 0.00 0.00

Works(new)

renovation 13

8.50 4.50

0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00

13.00 8.4986

7

4.50

0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 12.99867 0.00 0.00

Books 2.00

0.05 0.95 0.50 0.50

0.00 0.00

2.00

0.00

0.0368

3

0.4507

8

0.4498

6 0.00 0.00 0.93747 0.00 0.00

Sub total of C

(7-10) 176.12 35.84

100.6

5 8.84 2.79 0.00 28.00

176.12 20.551

64

114.05

383

9.4592

8

2.7388

6 0.00

25.431

5 172.23511 2.56602 0

Institutional

Charges

20.51 3.615 2.41 3.89 3.6 0.4103

5

3.1 17.0254 3.6131

5

2.4109

8

3.8865

3

3.5946

6

0.4103

5

3.1094

3 17.0251 0 0

Grand total 451.928

71.89

5

137.6

7 54.03 39.16

27.087

85 65.81 395.6529

56.578

99

150.59

119

53.888

79

39.081

7

26.800

19

60.875

06 387.83087 3.4982 42.17

121

122

Details of Technologies Developed/ Validated/ Adopted / Commercialised / Rural Industries

1) Title of the sub-project: Value Chain in Natural Dyes

2) Name of CPI/ CCPI: Dr. A. Sharada Devi

3) Title of the technology: Production technology for indigo and marigold

4) Information on existing farming systems, practices, productivity levels and income in the

target area: The existing cropping system is groundnut in kharif season. The yields are

fluctuating. Due to unfavourable climatic conditions in the last three years, the crop recorded

very low yields i.e 300-400kg/ha necessitating to find alternate crops to withstand large dry

spells.

5) Key Intervention(s) introduced: Production technology for indigo and marigold

6) Results

Status of dissemination/ commercialization; and, extent of adoption and success, if

applicable; with supporting data (with tables and photographs as annexure):

On-station experiments were initiated during the year 2009-10 with two dye crops viz, Indigo

and Marigold to study the influence of different sources of organic manures and spacing on crop

productivity and quality. On station experiments were conducted at Utukur, Kadapa farm the

experimental sites were located on southern zone of Andhra Pradesh. The soils are red sandy

loam with low organic carbon, available Nitrogen, medium in phosphorus and high in potassium.

The experiments were conducted in split plot and RBD designs with three replications.

Based on the two years data and observations the following conclusions were drawn.

• Healthy marigold seedlings can be obtained by raising of nursery in plastic tray with coco

peat

• Maximum flower yield with good quality recorded in castor cake and vermicompost

treatments

• Higher flower yield observed in treatments with spacing of 30x20 cms

• Indigo dye crop is responding to application of organic manures with supplemental

irrigation at long dry spells during rainy season

However to give a valid recommendation, the experiments were continued during 2011 also.

Indigo:

Indigo was sown in July at 30 x 10 spacing and organic manures were equated to 10 Kg N per

hectare and balance Phosphorus is supplied through SSP (30 Kg P/ha). Indigo response to

application of different organic manures and phosphorus is to be recorded

123

Marigold:

Yellow gold private hybrid seed nursery was raised in plastic seedling trays with coco pit media

for 30 days and healthy seedlings transplanted in main field in two different spacing 40x30 cms,

30x20 cms and organic manures were applied with equated doses of 100 N/ha, 100 P/ha, and

100 K/ha was applied through SSP and MOP. The yield is to be recorded.

7) Brief description of technology for release: The production technology for indigo and

marigold for dye purpose was developed under Organic farming. The use of organic

manures in a suitable ratio can increase the pigment content of the leaf and flower. The cost

of production is very low but the returns are very much encouraging. Farmers from medium

rain fall area can adopt the technology and earn good profits.

8) Expected Outcome/ Impact of the technology:

8.1. Expected increase in area, production and net income

Standardization of package of practices for natural dye crops which are more suitable for

dry land agriculture (Indigo and Marigold) may increase the dye yields, profitability and

sustainability in dry lands and improved soil health.

There is scope to adopt the indigo crop in about 5000 hectares in 2012 and will further

increase by popularizing through demonstrations and print and electronic media. There

is a scope for increase of income by Rs 8000/ha

8.2. Others- Nil

9) Whether findings have been published? If so, give the citation and enclose copy of the

publication. No.

10) Any other information- Nil

Marigold Plantation Indigo Plantation

124

Processing indigo Indigo Extraction Plant

Training of farmers

125

Details of Technologies Developed/ Validated/ Adopted / Commercialised / Rural

Industries

1. Title of the Sub-project: Value Chain in Natural Dyes

2. Name of CPI/CCPI: Dr. A. Sharada Devi

3. Title of the Technology: Technology of production of Natural Eco-powders

4. Information on Existing farming Systems, Practices, Productivity Levels and Income in

the Target Area: --

Synthetic colours are used for playing Holi in the form of powders and also as liquids.

These colours are not being produced in Andhra Pradesh but supplied from Hathras,

U.P. These colours are not meant for use on human skin but they are primarily used for

dyeing textiles. When these dyes are being used for playing Holi, several health hazards

are cropping up such as allergies, partial blindness, tumours of the lung, liver etc.

The awareness levels with regard to problems associated with these synthetic colours

was low before the interventions in this project. The total amount of this market is

around 125 to 150 tonnes with the value of Rs 1 ½ crore to 2 crores in A.P. Two

companies claim to supply eco-friendly colours which are found very light in colour

and not being much preferred by the consumers and therefore available in 2 or 3 stores

in Hyderabad only. The price levels of the existing colours is are as follows:

S. No Type of colour Quantity Price per Kg

1 Synthetic colours 1 ½ to 2 Tonnes Rs 150 to Rs 200

2 Eco-Exist eco colours 100 Kgs Rs 500

3 Green and Good Store Eco

colours

100 Kgs Rs 500

5. Key Intervention(s) Introduced:

Collection and post harvest practices of natural dyes

Production of Eco-colours with natural dyes

Popularization of the eco-colours with natural dyes

6. Results

Status of Dissemination/ Commercialization; and, Extent of Adoption and Success, If

Applicable; with Supporting Data (with Tables and Photographs as Annexure):

126

The technology was scaled up and disseminated through training of tribal and SHG groups

around chintapally and other project areas. The consumer awareness programmes were being

conducted and reached around 10,000 consumers. The feedback of the consumers was taken up

and accordingly 5 to 6 eco-colours are produced every year during the Holi season. The

technology is being licensed to 2 companies.

Scaled up the technology by Producing 3 tonnes of consumer highly preferred 5 colours namely

Orange, pink, yellow, blue and green, using basic sources Annatto, beet root, marigold and

indigo. The colour of the powders was intensified by mechanizing the process.

7. Brief Description of Technology for Release: --

A technology has been developed to overcome the health hazards due to the use of

synthetic colours for playing Holi. Innovative eco-powders are developed from renewable

natural dye sources which are of food grade and are totally safe on human skin. They are

eco-friendly and pollution free.

1. Collection of natural dye raw sources such as Butea flowers, marigold, Arjun bark etc.

2. Pulverisation of raw sources to reduce the size

3. Extraction of the natural pigment by boiling in water

4. Evaporation of water and making concentrated pigment solution

5. Preparation of powders by mixing the base material

6. Drying under shade

7. Packing

Advantages:

1. Parents can allow their children to use these eco-powders without any apprehensions.

2. These eco-powders can also save water as they do not require much water to wash away

from the skin.

3. The natural dye sources are being collected by tribal SHGs and promotion of these eco-

powders will provide sustainable livelihood to the tribal families

8. Expected Outcome/Impact of the Technology:

(8.1) Expected Increase in Area, Production and Net Income

Increased demand for the eco-Holi powders is ensured as there is lot of

awareness about the problems associated with the use of synthetic Holi colours

and the consumers are looking for alternatives

The market for the innovative eco-powders is expected to increase by 10% every

year.

Enhancement in the seasonal income to the tribal women by Rs. 2000/- per

month on an average

127

(8.2) Others-

The technology is being licensed to two firms – Hyderabad Goes Green and M/S

Sukuki Enterprises. The sale price of these firms is Rs.400/kg much below the

market price.

The licensees of the technology could find good market in other states also and

are expecting to increase their production and sales by 50%

9. Whether findings have been published? If so, give the citation and enclose copy of the

publication: No. But a patent has been booked 614/DEL/2014 dated 05/03/2014

10. Any other information : Photos enclosed

The Eco powders being prepared at RARS Chinthapally by Tribal Groups

128

Details of Technologies Developed/ Validated/ Adopted / Commercialised / Rural

Industries

1. Title of the sub-project: Value Chain in Natural Dyes


3. Title of the technology: Technology of Surface coating on idols with natural dyes

4. Information on existing practices:

Idols of gods in huge number are being made during the festival seasons as there is lot of

demand from the public. The immersion of idols in water bodies is the social ritual followed

immediately after the festival celebrations. Immersion of these idols can poison the waters of

lakes, rivers and the sea by increasing acidity, solid matter, organic matter and content of

heavy metals. Such pollution damages the flora and fauna of the eco-system, blocking the

natural flow of water and causing stagnation. Due to increase in heavy metal content of the water

after continuous immersion of idols the available oxygen in water goes low, thus suffocate and kill

the aqua bodies. It damages the human health by polluting drinking water sources causing

breathing problems, blood diseases, skin diseases etc.

To provide eco-friendly paint for idol painting, natural dye is the only alternative to

safeguard the water and the soil.

Around 50 lakh idols of small to big size are being produced every year before the

Vinayaka chathurdi, out of which around 50% are made with plaster of paris and painted

with synthetic dyes. The painted idols are mainly found in cities and towns. Studies

conducted by Central Pollution Control Board revealed that the pollutants increase in water

by 25 to 30% after the festival every year due to immersion of synthetic painted idols.

5. Key Intervention(s) introduced:

Training artisans in preparation of eco-paints and painting on idols

Production and distribution of natural coat kit consisting of 11 coats

Marketting of idols painted with natural dyes to show case the feasibility of the

technology to the artisans

Market linkage with Hyderabad Goes Green (Non Governmental Organisation),

Community awareness linkage with Jagruthi Abhyudaya Samithi (Non Governmental

Organisation)

Sales outlets – office sales at NAIP - VCND and corporate sales by Hyderabad Goes

Green

Publicity – Print & electronic media and workshop cum training programme

129

6. Results

Status of dissemination/commercialization; and, extent of adoption and success, if


Dissemination

To idol painters: Conducted workshops cum training every year during the project period in

coordination with Andhra Pradesh Pollution Control Board

To school children: Conducted awareness campaigns and natural coating session on

mud ganesh idol in schools

To policy makers/bureaucrats: Andhra Pradesh Pollution Control Board, Govt. of A.P

procured 150 natural coated Ganesh idols from the project and erected in 150 wards of

Greater Hyderabad Muncipal Corporation.

7. Brief description of technology for release: --

Idols painted with synthetic paints are creating pollution problems when immersed in

water as the aqua bodies suffocate and die after continuous immersions of synthetic

painted idols in water. Painting idols with eco-paints is an effective alternative as the

water will be safe when these idols are immersed and infact the vegetable colouring

material serve as a food to the aqua bodies. The colours a nd their combinations are

very pleasing and soothing to the eye.

Advantages of the technology:

The technology is very simple and doesn‟t require any expensive tools and

machinery.

Collection of the source and thorough drying

Extraction of colour

Mixing extracted colour with additives

Shade matching

Packing

Storage The paint can be stored in food grade plastic tins. Effective storage time is six moths

(away from moisture and direct sunlight).

8. Expected Outcome/Impact of the technology:

Central Pollution Control Board has brought out an ordinance to use natural

paints only and use small idols

Termination of practice of using synthetic painted idols upto 10%

Many NGOs and Social Organisations have started awareness programmes on

the advantages of using natural paints for idol painting

130


publication. No. But a patent has been booked 611/DEL/2014 dated 05/03/2014

10. Any other information : photos enclosed

Painting of Idols with natural dyes

131

Details of Technologies Developed/ Validated/ Adopted / Commercialised / Rural Industries

2. Title of the sub-project: Value Chain in Natural Dyes


4. Title of the technology: Technology of Dyeing cotton and silk with natural dyes

5. Information on existing farming systems, practices, productivity levels and income in the

target area: --

The market potential of Indian Textile and Apparel Industry is around 4 to 5 lakh crores

of which around 0.25% is devoted to eco-friendly dyed textiles/ apparels. The textile

and apparel processing industry is known as the most polluting industry globally.

Countries such as America and few European countries have already closed their units

due to heavy pollution and sourcing their material form Asian countries. In India, the

Pollution Control Board has enforced the control measures over pollution and thus

many small units which cannot afford to have effluent treatment plants are being closed

(around 700 units near Tirupur).

The natural dye practices of Kalamkari are only limited to 2 clusters in Andhra Pradesh

– Pedana and Sri kalahasthi. Around 6 lakh meters of fabric is being produced. The

demand for these products has not been increasing due to the limited shades used,

unevenness in colour, poor colourfastness etc. The artisans has adopted age old

practices of printing with natural dyes and also use little synthetic dye as topping

colour. They are able to earn very meagre profit level of around 5% and therefore, the

younger generation of these two clusters are not dependent on this art.

6. Key Intervention(s) introduced:

Developed technology for dyeing natural fibre textiles to brighter shades with

satisfactory fastness and replicability

Training dyers, artisans, weavers and SHGs in dyeing with natural dyes

Scaled up the technology through pilot plants and training and production centres

Supported for production of textiles for apparel and home textiles

7. Results

Status of dissemination/commercialization; and, extent of adoption and success, if


Developed 1% to 10% shades for the above five sources @ 40 shades using four

mordants. A total of 800 shades were developed from each dye source.

Each shade was tested for colourfastness in terms of Sunlight, washing, dry & wet

crocking & alkaline & acidic Perspiration and Washing for silk yarn. The following

table gives the overall fastness properties of the selected natural dyes on cotton and

silk

132

Source Colour

produced

Colourfastness grades

Sunligh

t

Washing Alkaline

perspiratio

n

Acidic

perspir

ation

Dry

Crocki

ng

Wet

crockin

g

Bixa

Orellana

Orange

shades

Very

fair

Good Very fair Good Good Very

fair

Eucalyptus

globules

Light pink to

Pinkish

browns

Excelle

nt

Excellent Good Good Excelle

nt

Good

Eclipta

prostrata

fluorescent

greens to dull

greens

Excelle

nt

Excellent Good Good Very

Good

Good

Arjun

terminalia

light to dark

browns,

pinkish

browns

Good Good Good Very

good

Very

good

Good

Butea

monosperm

a flower

Yellow

shades

Very

fair

Good Good Good Very

good

Very

fair

Butea

monosperm

a gum

browns and

grayish

browns

Excelle

nt

Good Good Good Very

Good

Good

Tagetus

erecta

khaki greens,

greys light

greens

Good Good Good Good Good Very

fair

Sappan

wood

Pink to red

shades

Good V. fair Very fair Good Very

good

good

Dissemination to artisans:

Group of dyers and weavers from Hindupur adopted the technology of natural dye extraction

and dyeing on silk yarn. Produced sarees, stoles, dress materials, tie material and scarves.

Cotton dyeing was adopted by the weavers from Koyalagudem and also Kalamkari artisans,

Pedana. Practical manuals, folders and technical bulletins are developed and disseminated.

8. Brief description of technology for release: The traditional knowledge and skill of dyeing

with natural dyes is known to few artisans and weavers in A.P. These traditional practices

produce fabrics with dull and limited shades and poor colourfastness. To overcome these

difficulties the technology of dyeing textiles with natural dyes has been developed and

dissiminated to weavers and artisans. The technology ensures good bright natural dye

shades on natural fibre textiles with satisfactory fastness and replicability. The technology

133

is very simple and it does not require any expensive tools and machinery. The improved

process is pollution free and do not cause any related problems.

Process of dyeing with natural dyes:

Collection of the source and thorough drying

Extraction of colour

Pre treatment to textiles

Mordanting

Dyeing

Finishing

Drying

Packing

9. Expected Outcome/Impact of the technology:

Dyers

Increased demand for natural dyed yarn

Enhance income by Rs. 2500

Weavers

Health safe guarding

Scope for more designs and variety

Increased demand for natural dyed products

Beneficial product cost by 30-40%

Enhanced income levels by Rs 6500 per month

Increased market linkages

Branding of products


publication. No

11. Any other information – A patent has been filed on the technology of dyeing banana

textiles with natural dyes – Patent no: 622/DEL/2014 dated 06/03/2014

Natural dyed Silk Sarees

and Dress materials

Natural dyed Cotton Sarees

and Dress materials

Annato

(Tartaric

acid)

ANNEXURE - IV- Natural dye products (Textiles)

Trainings in dyeing with Natural Dyes

Eco-powders

Eco-paints

Fibre Handicrafts

Incubation centre, College of Home Science, Hyderabad

Silk dyeing and weaving unit at Hindupur

Etikoppaka Natural dye Lacquer

Toys

Exhibitions & Business Conventions

International Workshop on Natural Dyes 5th

to 7th

March 2014

ANNEXURE – VII (Awards & Recognitions)

Annexure- VI Awards & Recognitions

ANNEXURE - IV A

Geometrical properties of fabrics selected for study:

The geometric parameters of the fabrics used for the study on UV properties of

natural dyes are furnished in the following tables. Properties such as yarn count, fabric count,

thickness and weight are assessed before and after dyeing with different mordants following

the BIS standard procedures:

MGY- Marigold yellow

S. No

Sample

Fabric Thickness (mm)

Thin fabric Medium fabric Thick fabric

1 Control 0.234 0.25 0.29

2 MGY+ Alum 0.19 0.234 0.32

3 MGY+ SnCl2 0.19 0.24 0.32

4 MGY+ Tartaric acid 0.185 0.237 0.32

5 MGY+ FeSo4 0.206 0.247 0.33

S. No

Sample

Fabric count


warp weft warp weft warp weft

1 Control 78 62 90 64 111 84

2 MGY+ Alum 89 74 89 65 110 84

3 MGY+ SnCl2 92 74 88 64 110 85

4 MGY+ Tartaric acid 90 75 90 65 110 84

5 MGY+ FeSo4 90 74 90 65 110 85

S. No

Sample

Fabric weight (GSM)


1 Control 46.2 56.8 118.8

2 MGY+ Alum 44.0 54.2 124.0

3 MGY+ SnCl2 42.7 53.3 127.0

4 MGY+ Tartaric acid 40.8 51.7 120.9

5 MGY+ FeSo4 43.7 56.4 123.8

S. No

Sample

Yarn count


warp weft warp weft warp weft

1 Control 74 81 75 70 44 37

2 MGY+ Alum 83 106 72 72 40 38

3 MGY+ SnCl2 93 98 72 70 40 38

4 MGY+ Tartaric acid 85 108 71 74 40 36

5 MGY+ FeSo4 83 108 70 74 40 37

After dyeing with natural dye, certain changes in the geometrical properties are observed.

The change in the fabric dimensions are more noticeable in thin fabrics than in medium and

thick fabrics as there is scope for thin fabric for shrinkage. Positive correlation was observed

between fabric count in both warp and weft with fabric thickness and weight (GSM). This is

due to the fact that the thickness and fabric weight generally depend on the fabric count. If

the count is more then the thickness and also weight will increase. Negative correlation was

observed between Yarn count and fabric thickness, fabric count and weight of the fabric. In

case of cotton higher yarn count designates fineness and smaller number indicates coarseness

of the yarn. Hence the negative correlation.

Correlation Matrix

Colour Strength of the fabrics dyed with selected Natural dyes:

Annatto Dye

S. No Mordant Thin Medium Thick

1 Control 0 0 0

2 Myrobalan 1.06 1.36 1.77

3 Alum 5.07 5.44 5.64

4 Feso4 3.11 3.14 5.08

5 SnCl4 3.39 3.98 5.38

6 Tartaric Acid 4.47 4.44 5.22

High colour strength was observed in fabrics mordanted with alum followed by stannous

chloride mordant.

Thickness

Fabric Count

warp

Fabric count

weft

Fabric

Weight

Yarn count

warp

Yarn

count weft

Thickness 1

Fabric Count warp 0.832376 1

Fabric count weft 0.618797 0.911044 1

Fabric Weight 0.947804 0.950824 0.82173 1

Yarn count warp -0.97678 -0.87534 -0.69873 -0.97309 1

Yarn count weft -0.97056 -0.80906 -0.54917 -0.92219 0.955698 1

Arjun bark Dye


1 Control 0 0 0

2 Myrobalan 1.06 1.36 1.77

3 Alum 5.14 6.55 7.80

4 Feso4 5.98 5.05 8.88

5 SnCl4 6.00 7.10 12.29


In Arjun bark dye high colour strength was observed in stannous chloride mordanted fabrics

followed by fabrics mordanted with ferrous sulphate and alum.

Butea flower Dye


1 Control 0 0 0

2 Myrobalan 1.06 1.36 1.77

3 Alum 2.00 2.80 3.14

4 Feso4 1.91 2.29 3.79

5 SnCl4 2.58 1.81 2.57


The absorption of Butea flower dye was found to be less as the colour strength is low when

compared to other dyes. In thin fabrics stannous mordanted samples recorded higher colour

strength. Alum mordanted medium weight samples had high colour strength. In case of thick

fabrics. Ferrous sulphate mordant had facilitated for higher colour strength.

Butea gum Dye


1 Control 0 0 0

2 Myrobalan 1.06 1.36 1.77

3 Alum 1.86 2.11 2.27

4 Feso4 5.33 6.54 6.18

5 SnCl4 1.43 3.43 3.75


The ferrous sulphate mordanted samples had highest colour strength when compared to other

mordanted samples irrespective of the fabric thickness.

Eclipta prostrata Dye


1 Control 0 0 0

2 Myrobalan 1.06 1.36 1.77

3 Alum 4.22 6.23 6.00

4 Feso4 1.68 1.76 2.52

5 SnCl4 1.66 2.80 4.05


Alum mordanted samples showed highest colour strength in case Eclipta prostrate dye.

Eucalyptus Bark Dye

The Eucalyptus bark dye has been absorbed high by alum mordanted fabrics.

Marigold red Flower Dye


1 Control 0 0 0

2 Myrobalan 1.06 1.36 1.77

3 Alum 3.67 4.45 5.15

4 Feso4 5.43 4.67 6.03

5 SnCl4 12.06 6.00 8.55

6 Tartaric Acid 2.164 2.17 3.79


1 Control 0 0 0

2 Myrobalan 1.06 1.36 1.77

3 Alum 6.70 6.51 5.96

4 Feso4 3.23 3.01 6.09

5 SnCl4 3.27 2.70 3.35


Stannous chloride has facilitated for higher colour absorption in case of Marigold red dye.

Marigold yellow Flower Dye

The ferrous sulphate mordanted fabrics showed high colour strength than other mordanted

samples


1 Control 0 0 0

2 Myrobalan 1.06 1.36 1.77

3 Alum 3.60 4.66 5.56

4 Feso4 11.79 14.57 17.63

5 SnCl4 4.64 11.53 13.00


ANNEXURE – IV B

Annatto

S.

No


Thin Medium Thick Thin % Medium % Thick % Thin % Medium % Thick %

1 Control 0 0 10 42.86 34.08 6.93 42.89 34.84 7.02

2 Myrobalan 0 0 50 28.55 33.39 23.56 30.87 1.34 80.66 25.77 39.92 20.24 41.91 1.15 83.62

3 Alum 0 0 50 27.65 42.53 23.20 46.24 0.90 86.58 27.13 47.21 22.87 52.15 0.89 88.03

4 FeSo4 0 0 50 27.36 33.39 21.31 48.33 0.62 89.47 25.94 42.67 20.02 53.90 0.57 91.03

5 SnCl4 0 5 50 28.20 40.41 18.81 40.11 1.04 88.60 27.49 44.91 18.19 46.27 1.00 89.74

6 Tartaric acid 0 5 50 25.03 26.81 19.59 30.52 1.29 77.63 24.54 34.90 19.35 40.38 0.22 82.91

Arjun bark


Thin Medium Thick Thin Medium Thick Thin Medium Thick

Control 0 0 10 42.86 34.08 6.93 42.89 34.84 7.02

Myrobalan 0 0 50 28.55 33.39 23.56 30.86 1.34 80.66 25.77 39.91 20.24 41.90 1.15 83.62

Alum 0 5 50 24.63 42.53 18.32 46.24 0.93 86.58 22.64 47.21 16.67 52.15 0.84 88.03

FeSo4 0 5 50 26.37 38.47 17.61 48.32 0.73 89.46 24.59 42.66 16.06 53.90 0.63 91.03

SnCl4 0 5 50 25.54 40.41 20.41 40.11 0.79 88.60 23.63 44.90 18.72 46.26 0.72 89.74

Tartaric

acid

0 0 50 31.37 26.81 23.68 30.51 1.55 77.63 27.92 34.90 20.77 40.38 1.2 82.91

Butea flower

S.

No


Thin Medium Thick Thin Thin % Medium Mediu

m %

Thick Thick

%

Thin Thin % Medium Mediu

m %

Thick Thick

%

1 Control 0 0 10.00 42.86 34.08 6.93 42.89 34.84 7.02

2 Myrobalan 0 0 50.00 28.55 33.39 23.56 30.87 1.34 80.66 25.77 39.92 20.24 41.91 1.15 83.62

3 Alum 0 0 50.00 33.89 20.93 29.09 14.64 1.45 79.08 31.63 26.25 27.01 22.47 1.22 82.62

4 FeSo4 0 0 50.00 33.44 21.98 26.04 23.59 1.29 81.39 30.93 27.89 24.08 30.88 1.14 83.76

5 SnCl4 0 0 50.00 32.14 25.01 25.86 24.12 1.38 80.09 29.72 30.71 23.62 32.20 1.10 84.33

6 Tartaric acid 0 0 50.00 36.24 15.45 25.83 24.21 2.94 57.58 33.88 21.01 24.07 30.91 2.39 65.95

Butea gum

S.

No

Mordant UPF UV-A UV-B Thin Medium Thick Thin Thin % Medium Mediu

m %

Thick Thick

%

Thin Thin % Medium Mediu

m %

Thick Thick

%

1 Control 0 0 10 42.86 34.08 6.93 42.89 34.84 7.02

2 Myrobalan 0 0 50+ 28.55 33.388 23.56 30.869

1.34 80.6638

25.77 39.916 20.24 41.906

1.15 83.61823

3 Alum 0 5 50+ 32.54 24.078 18.99 44.278

2.44 64.7908

29.29 31.709 16.6 52.354

1.86 73.50427

4 FeSo4 0 5 50+ 26.68 37.751 18.75 44.982

1.01 85.4257

24.99 41.735 17.26 50.459

0.89 87.32194

5 SnCl4 0 5 50+ 29.48 31.218 20.57 39.642

1.57 77.3449

26.03 39.31 17.74 49.082

1.25 82.19373

6 Tartaric acid 0 0 50+ 31.64 26.178 23.44 31.221

1.51 78.2107

28.45 33.668 20.67 40.672

1.13 83.90313

Eclita prostrata


Thin Medium Thick Thin Thin

%

Medium Medium

%

Thick Thick

%

Thin Thin

%

Medium Medium

%

Thick

Thick %

Control 0 0 10 42.86 34.08 6.93 42.89 34.84 7.02

Myrobalan 0 0 50 28.55 33.388 23.56 30.869 1.34 80.6638 25.77 39.916 20.24 41.906 1.15 83.61823

Alum 0 5 50 24.92 41.857 20.84 38.85 0.81 88.3117 23.1 46.141 19.48 44.087 0.75 89.31624

FeSo4 0 5 50 25.64 40.177 21.3 37.5 1.15 83.4055 23.66 44.836 19.65 43.599 1.02 85.47009

SnCl4 0 0 50 30.72 28.325 25.2 26.056 1.45 79.0765 28.99 32.408 23.73 31.889 1.31 81.33903

Tartaric

acid

0 0 50 32.15 24.988 22.09 35.182 1.31 81.0967 30.09 29.844 20.63 40.786 1.03 85.32764

Eucalyptus bark



%

Medium Medium

%

Thick Thick

%

Thin Thin

%

Medium Medium

%

Thick

Thick %

Control 0 0 10 42.86 34.08 6.93 42.89 34.84 7.02

Myrobalan 0 0 50 28.55 33.388 23.56 30.869 1.34 80.6638 25.77 39.916 20.24 41.906 1.15 83.61823

Alum 0 5 50 23.16 45.964 19.84 41.784 1.63 76.4791 21.41 50.082 18.15 47.905 1.44 79.48718

FeSo4 0 0 50 30.53 28.768 23.14 32.101 1.56 77.4892 28.17 34.32 20.98 39.782 1.29 81.62393

SnCl4 0 0 50 30.73 28.301 30.37 10.886 0.92 86.7244 26.58 38.028 26.34 24.397 0.68 90.31339

Tartaric

acid

0 0 50 33.33 22.235 23.67 30.546 2.06 70.2742 30.15 29.704 21.03 39.638 1.54 78.06268

Marigold yellow



%

Medium Medium

%

Thick Thick

%

Thin Thin

%

Medium Medium

%

Thick

Thick %

Control 0 0 10 42.86 34.08 6.93 42.89 34.84 7.02

Myrobalan 0 0 50 28.55 33.38 23.56 30.869 1.34 80.66 25.77 39.91 20.24 41.90 1.15 83.61

Alum 0 0 50 32.54 24.07 18.99 44.278 2.44 64.79 29.29 31.70 16.6 52.35 1.86 73.50

FeSo4 0 5 50 26.68 37.75 18.75 44.982 1.01 85.42 24.99 41.73 17.26 50.45 0.89 87.32

SnCl4 0 0 50 29.48 31.21 20.57 39.642 1.57 77.34 26.03 39.31 17.74 49.08 1.25 82.19

Tartaric

acid

0 0 50 31.64 26.17 23.44 31.221 1.51 78.21 28.45 33.66 20.67 40.67 1.13 83.90

Marigold Red



%

Medium Medium

%

Thick Thick

%

Thin Thin

%

Medium Medium

%

Thick

Thick %

Control 0 0 10 42.86 34.08 6.93 42.89 34.84 7.02

Myrobalan 0 0 50 28.55 33.39 23.56 30.869 1.34 80.6638 25.77 39.916 20.24 20.24 1.15 83.61823

Alum 0 0 50 28.43 33.67 22.79 33.128 1.26 81.8182 26.24 38.82 16.6 20.93 1.08 84.61538

FeSo4 0 5 50 26.43 38.33 21.13 37.999 1.37 80.2309 24.44 43.017 17.26 19.25 1.19 83.04843

SnCl4 0 5 50 29.17 31.94 22.47 34.067 1.49 78.4993 27.14 36.722 17.74 20.85 1.34 80.91168

Tartaric

acid

0 0 50 30.06 29.86 23.79 30.194 1.95 71.8615 27.4 36.116 20.67 21.54 1.83 73.93162

UV Properties of Marigold red dyed fabric

Horizontal expansion of the

cultivable area of Indigo

Vertical expansion of

market by linking

collectors, farmers and the

users

Continuation of linkages

between the collectors,

farmers, markets and users

Sustainability Horizontal expansion of

natural dye usage in

natural dye end products

Horizontal expansion

of safe natural dye

product range in the

market

Protocols for natural

dye end products for

quality standards and

global certification to

continue

Present scenario

Only 5-10% potential

source collection

Casual collection

Selling at lower price

Absence of natural dye

market in A.P

Lack of awareness in post

harvest practices of natural

dye sources

Low level of skill among

natural dye collectors

Reasons

Conventional method of

application

No uniform quality as

evident from dye bath

Lack of reproducibility

Lack of fastness

Limited colour palette

High cost of production

Limited colour range

& variety

High price

No assurance of

quality

Limited awareness

Lack of brands

Lack of quality

assurance to the

consumers

Lack of awareness

Lack of eco-friendly

certification

Issues Insufficient supply of natural dye source

Poor adopted

technology

Lack of commercial

availability of natural

dye enduse products

Standards for quality and

eco-friendly certification

of Natural dyes sources

Availability of potential

natural dye sources

Market established at

Peddana & Hyderabad

Availability of qualitative

raw material with high

pigment content

Enhancement of

income by Rs 500 per

month during the

seasonal months

Impact

Availability of

standardized procedures

and wide range of shades

on textiles, eco-paints

and eco-powders

Skilled dyers,

weavers and artisans to

promote natural dye

usage

Facility created for

the dyers, weavers and

artisans for entrepreneur

development

Contribution to

pollution control

Established quality

standards and

certification for

natural dye end use

products

Increased awareness

among consumers

Indigo cultivation

increased from 0 to 2000

acres among 700 farmers

5% increase in Marigold

cultivation

10% increase in natural

dye collection

Trained tribal self help

groups at Chintapally

and Rampachodavaram

Supply of qualitative

raw material

Outcome

Standardised natural dye

extraction, dyeing

procedures for cotton,

silk and banana fibres

Colour spectrum with

5633 dye shades, 56

shades of eco-paints and

15 eco-powders

Trained dyers, weavers

and artisans

Established pilot plants for

Dyeing cotton

Dyeing silk

Dyeing banana fibre

Natural dye incubation centre

Established Market linkages

Diversified natural enduse

products

Developed quality

parameters for

identification of natural

dyed textiles

Tested for heavy metal

content for paints and

powders

Organising International

Workshop on Natural

Dyes for global

consensus on quality

standards and

certification Production of natural dyes-

cultivation – package of

practices, collection from

forest belts

Training self help groups

in selection and collection

of natural sources and

their post harvest

practices

Intervention

s

Standardization &

refinement of

technology

Development of value added

products & packaging

Establishment of training-

cum-production centres &

training SHG,weavers &

artisans

Develop quality

parameters for assessing

the natural dye end use

products

Organise International

workshop on developed

quality parameters of

natural dye end use

products

Standards for quality and eco-friendly certification of Natural dyes sources Annexure - III

Intervention

Technology for effective dye extraction from natural sources

Collection

Availability at

present:

Butea monosperma,

Eclipta prostrata,

Eucalyptus bark,

Myrobalan, Sappan

wood, Arjun bark &

Butea gum

Present scenario

5-10% potential source collection

Casual collection

Selling at lower price (Rs. 2/- per Kg)

Collection by tribal women & men

Wholesaler

at Chennai

Ayurveda

Products

Artisans Weavers – 10% Printing – 85% Handicraft products –5%

Constraints at production level

No uniform quality as evident from dye bath

Lack of reproducibility

Lack of fastness

Conventional method of application

Limited palette

High cost of production

Limited skilled workers

Limited entrepreneurs

Drudgery

High consumption of time and energy

Procurement

by Middlemen

Intervention

-Standardized natural dye processing technologies

-Skill development

-Drudgery reduction

-Diversified natural enduse products

-Market linkages

-Electronic cataloging

Cultivation Bixa orellana, Marigold, Indigo

Intervention

Reasonable price

Intervention

Data base

Intervention

Skill development in collection through training

Size

reduction by

pulversing

Intervention

Reasonable price

Variety in products

Quality assurance

Availability of branded products

Uninterrupted supply of products

Constraints: Lack of brands Lack of quality assurance and Inadequate quantity of material Interruption in supply

Domestic – 80% APCO, medium cloth merchants

Wholesaler at Banglore & Chennai (90%) and A.P (10%)

International – 20% Marketing at USA & Europe cloth merchants

Constraints: Limited variety Limited made ups

Individual

consumer

Apparel Industry

Constraints

Limited colour range & variety

High price

No assurance of quality

Limited awareness, use and care Intervention

Standardisation of Agro-techniques for higher productivity & quality

Procurement &

market by GCC

Intervention

Ergonomic model

Intervention

Market linkages through training

Intervention

Cost effective technology

Intervention

Dye extraction (Training SHGs & Tribal youth)

Value Chain in Natural Dyes (Baseline)

Annexure - I

PROPOSED VALUE CHAIN ON COLOURS FROM NATURE

MISSING LINKS INTERVENTIONS FUNCTIONS PARTNERS

Insufficient

supply of

natural dye

sources

Production of natural dyes-

- Cultivation- Package of

practices

- Collection from forest belts

Product

refinement/

development

Primary

processing

Farm

Production &

Procurement

Development of value added

products & packaging

Standardization &

refinement of technology

Training self help groups in

selection and collection of

natural sources and their

post harvest practices

Market linkages

Up-scaling

ANGRAU,

IICT,

Handloom

Park, Craft

Council

ANGRAU

Dept of

Consumer

Affairs &

Civil

Supplies,

NAARM

ANGRAU

Shyamal

Handlooms

Craft

Council

KVK, CTRI

ITDA

ANGRAU

(outsourcing

IICT)

ANGRAU

(outsourcing

IICT)

ANGRAU,

ITDA,

Shyamal

Handlooms

ANGRAU

ITDA

Economic feasibility and

assessment of consumer

acceptance and pricing

strategies for natural dye

enduse products

Quality

Promotion

Consumption

Poor adopted

technology

Lack of

commercial

availability of

natural dye

enduse products

Limited

awareness

levels amongst

different end

user segments

Standards for

quality and eco-

friendly

certification of

Natural dyes

sources

General

Market

Niche

markets

Export

markets

Skill

upgradation

Ergonomic &

ecological

model Establishment of pilot plants

for continuous supply of

Colour concentrates

Establishment of training-

cum-production centres &

training self help groups,

weavers & artisans

Establishing linkages

between producers and

corporate showrooms,

emporiums, retailers and

wholesalers and exporters

Develop quality parameters

for assessing the natural

dye enduse products

Conduct international

workshop on developed

quality parameters of

natural dye enduse products

STAKEHOLDER

S

Farmers

Local markets-

Comme-rcial

establishments,

Handloom

showrooms,

Kiosks,

Boutiques,

handicraft

shops, Lepakshi,

Natural products

shops,

consumers

Artisans,

farmers , Hand-

loom weavers

Textile dyers &

Printers, Idol

painters,

Handicraft

artisans, Interior

decorators

SHG,women,

Artisans,

farmers,

Handloom

weavers Textile

dyers & Printers,

Idol painters,

Handicraft

artisans, Interior

decorators

Tribal people /

Self help groups

Annexure - II

Documents

A Value Chain in Natural Dye