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’07-‘14 Yamaha WR250F & ’07-’11 WR450F Dual Sport Kit Installation Manual

(Part Number: 12-1230)

Baja Designs • 185 Bosstick Blvd. • San Marcos • CA • 92069

Phone 760.560.2252 • Fax 760.560.0383 • info@bajadesigns.com

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www.bajadesigns.com

Warranty: Baja Designs manufactures its own products as well as resells products manufactured by others. Baja Designs makes no express or implied warranties on products not manufactured by Baja Designs including without limitation any warranties or merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. We will however, pass on all warranties made by the manufacturer, who has the sole responsibility for performing such warranties. Baja Designs will repair or replace any item manufactured by us that we judge to be defective in workmanship or material within 30 days of shipment. We will not be responsible for any indirect or consequential damages in connection with defective merchandise. Products used in racing, competition, or damaged by crash, abuse, or misuse are not warrantable. Indemnification: Buyer hereby acknowledges motorcycle riding is a dangerous sport and that the products and/or supplies purchased from Baja Designs are used in an inherently dangerous activity that may endanger life and limb; and in no event shall the seller, or the seller’s heirs and assigns, be held liable for consequential damages, nor shall the seller’s liability on any claim for damages arising out of or connected with the sale, delivery, or use of purchased products and/or supplies exceed the purchase price of the products and/or supplies. Dual-Sport Kit: Installation of a Baja Designs Dual-Sport Kit by itself does not make an off-road motorcycle street legal. Each state has different equipment requirements for street legal motorcycles, including but not limited to such items as DOT approved tires, left and right side mirrors, speedometers, quiet exhaust, chain guards, and side reflectors. Contact your state’s Department of Motor Vehicles or highway patrol for a comprehensive list of equipment that is required for street motorcycles before riding your bike on the street. Street Riding: Riding a motorcycle on the street is very different than off-road riding and requires special skills not learned off-road. Most states require an additional license beyond an automobile driver’s license to operate a motorcycle on the street. Make sure to have the proper licensing and skills before riding your bike on the street. Baja Designs recommends contacting the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (800 446 9227) for a rider course near you.

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Important - Please Read First:

The WR stator is not powerful enough to charge the battery and run a full DC dual sport lighting system at the same time. For this kit to function properly, a modification must be performed on the stock stator. If this is not done, the battery will discharge any time the headlight is turned on regardless of bulb wattage. This modification is critical since the bike’s ignition is reliant upon the battery being properly charged. Baja Designs has provided stator modification instructions on page 14 of this manual as well as the necessary hardware in the kit parts bag. Please read the stator modification instructions in their entirety before beginning. This is a delicate modification that requires soldering and crimping to the stator wiring. If you do not have the proper tools or are not comfortable performing this type of work, do not begin. Baja Designs can perform this modification for you for $30 (call 760.560.2252 for an order number.) If you choose to perform this modification yourself, it is critical that you be able to follow the instructions exactly. Any errors will cause the stator to have to be rewound completely. The stator bolts into the engine’s left case cover and does not require a flywheel puller for removal.

Be careful to position the right rear turn signal so it is out of the path of the

exhaust flow. Baja Designs highly recommends using mini-stalk or flush-mount style turn signals with this kit. The standard DOT rear signals can be used; however, they must be attached to the fender instead of the taillight plastic to avoid the exhaust flow.

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1. Remove the seat, fuel tank, and side panels.

2. Unplug and remove the stock taillight

and its wire guides under the fender. 3. Unplug and remove the stock headlight

and kill button. 4. Perform the stator modification per the

instructions at the back of this manual. When done, reinstall the modified stator and re-attach the two plastic plugs from the stator to their corresponding mates from the stock wiring harness.

5. Fender Modification: Using a sharp

blade or cut-off wheel, remove the three molded taillight-mounting bosses and two of the three wire guide bosses under the fender as shown in Photo 1. It is easier to perform this step with the fender removed.

6. Taillight Installation: Attach the provided LED taillight to the stock fender as shown in Photo 2 using the provided countersunk mounting hardware. Use the longest of the three bolts for the front mount. We will route and attach the wires in a later step.

7. Rear Turn Signal Installation: If you

are installing this kit on a WR with a stock muffler, drill the rear turn signal

mounting holes in the sides of the taillight at the location shown in Photo 3. It is critical that the right turn signal be out of the path of the exhaust flow. See Photos 4 & 5. If the bike has an aftermarket muffler installed, evaluate the direction of the exhaust flow and position the signals accordingly.

Photo 1

Remove These 5 Molded Bosses

Do Not Remove

Photo 2 Countersunk Taillight Mounting Hardware

Use Longest Bolt Here

Photo 3

If Runn ing S tock E xhaust, D rill H ere to A ttach Turn S igna l

Photo 4

Standard turn signals installed

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8. Taillight & Turn Signal Wire Routing: Once the taillight & turn signals have been mounted and you are satisfied with their locations, remove the taillight from the fender (signals still attached) and drill a single hole through the black taillight plastic as shown in Photos 6 & 7 for the wiring to pass through. Reattach the taillight to the fender and reinstall the remaining wire guide for the taillight & left turn signal wires. Drill two small holes in the fender as shown in Photo 8 for the turn signal wires to pass through. The taillight wires can follow the same path around the fender that the stock taillight wires followed. We will attach the wires in a later step.

9. Brake Light Switch Installation: The WR250/450 uses a hydraulic brake

switch. This requires replacing the rear master cylinder banjo bolt with a specially made switch. Installing the switch requires bleeding the rear brake. If you do not feel competent bleeding your rear brake, please refer this job to a qualified mechanic, as failure to do it correctly will make the brake inoperable. Remove the rear master cylinder guard. Remove the bolt holding the brake fluid reservoir to provide access to the master cylinder. Loosen the banjo bolt securing the rear brake line to the master cylinder. Typically, this bolt will be very tight and loosening it will bend the support hanger for the master cylinder if not supported. Brace the master cylinder with a wrench or lever. Remove the banjo bolt and replace with the hydraulic switch. This is a tight installation on WR master cylinders; however, it will tighten down with a little persistence. Make sure to install the copper crush washer from the stock bolt under the switch. Torque the switch assembly to factory specifications.

Brake Fluid Reservoir

Hydraulic Brake Switch

Copper Crush Washers

Photo 9

Photo 5

LED mini-stalk turn signals installed

Photo 6

Wire passage hole

Photo 7

Taillight & left signal wires

Right signal wires

Photo 8

Turn signal wire passages

Taillight wires

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Bleeding the Brakes: (Do not begin this process unless you have a fresh can of brake fluid) Re-install the brake fluid reservoir and remove the lid. Put the box end of 8mm wrench over the brake bleed nipple and install the bleed hose (supplied) tightly over the nipple. Position the loop on the hose above the nipple as shown in Photo 10 with the other end of the hose in a container to catch the fluid. Crack the bleed nipple open about an eighth to a quarter turn, keeping the loop in the hose vertical. Slowly depress the brake pedal to fill the hose with fluid. Pump slowly until you have brake fluid extending up into the loop, then you can pump the pedal fairly aggressively to drive air out of the system - The fluid above the bleed nipple will prevent air from re-entering the system. DO NOT LET THE RESERVOIR GO DRY - ADD FLUID AS NEEDED. Pump the pedal until there are no more bubbles, and then close the nipple with the wrench. Check again that the pedal is firm and the brake works properly.

10. Rectifier/Regulator Installation: The stock rectifier/regulator is the metal finned module mounted on the frame to the left of the steering head.

Unplug the two plastic connectors that mate the

stock rectifier/regulator wiring to the stock wiring harness under the fuel tank. Unbolt and remove the stock rectifier/regulator.

The Baja Designs rectifier/regulator will mount to the same location as the stock unit. However the insides of the molded mounting boss on the frame must be shaved slightly to provide clearance. Using a file or electric grinding tool, remove a small amount of material on the insides of the bosses as shown in Photo 11 until the body of the new rectifier/regulator will fit between them.

Attach the Baja Designs rectifier/regulator as shown in Photo 12 using the provided spacers and countersunk mounting hardware. Once installed, carefully turn the steering all the way to the left and verify that the left fork tube does not contact the new rectifier/regulator. If mounted properly, there should be about 1mm clearance. If the fork tube contacts the regulator you will need to shave a little more material from the mounting bosses to allow the regulator to sit closer to the frame.

Route the wires and attach them to the wires that the stock rectifier/regulator previously plugged

Keep loop Above Bleed nippl

Bleed Nipple

8 mm Wrench

Container

Photo 10

Photo 13

Electrical tape here

Photo 11

Material removed to provide clearance for the Baja Designs rectifier/regulator

Photo 12

Spacers

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into. Note that the single wire connector from the new rectifier/regulator does not have the same locking feature that the factory connector had. Wrap this connection with some electrical tape to prevent it from separating. See Photo 13.

Secure the wires with zip-ties.

Switch Panel Installation: Install the turn signal switch on the left handlebar next to the grip as shown in Photo 14. The switch has two screws that join the two halves together. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THESE SCREWS as too much force can strip the body of the switch. Make sure to use the included rubber strips on the switch as they help stop it from rotating. The clutch perch may have to be moved to the right to make room for the switch. Run the wires along the underside of the handlebar (so they can’t be crushed by tie-downs) and over the front of the top triple clamp. Attach the small plastic 2-wire connector from the switch panel to the connector from the stock wiring harness that you unplugged the stock kill button from. We will attach the large black connector in a later step.

11. Hot Start Spacer Installation: Use the two 5x20 Phillips head screws & 3/8”

aluminum spacers provided to space the hot start lever perch upward so it clears the body of the new switch panel assembly. See Photo 14.

12. Key Switch Installation: Mount the key switch unit off one of your handlebar

clamp bolts or upper triple clamp bolts. Make sure it is easy to reach as this will now function as your kill switch for the bike. Make sure the key switch and wires do not contact any part of the chassis. See Photo 16.

Photo 14

3/8” spacers

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13. Middle Wiring Harness Installation: Locate the middle wiring harness provided with the kit. It is the long black cable with the white multi-pin connectors at each end. Position one of the two connectors (doesn’t matter which – each end of this harness is identical) to the left of the steering tube and route the harness back along the left side of the bike following the stock wiring harness. The rear multi-pin connector should end up at the area on top of the air box. We will attach the connectors in the following steps.

14. Rear Wiring Harness Installation and Connections: See Photos 15 & 16 for

layout. Locate the rear wiring harness provided with the dual sport kit. It has a white plastic 6-pin connector with a series of sheathed power leads and a fuse extending from it.

Attach the 6-pin connector from the rear harness to its corresponding mate from the middle harness on top of the air box near the battery.

Attach the ring terminal from the 15A-fused lead to the positive side of the battery.

Attach the remaining black un-fused ring terminal to the negative side of the battery.

Attach the white plastic 3-pin connector from the rear harness to its corresponding mate from the taillight.

Attach the green & black wire pair to the two wires from the right rear turn signal. Polarity is not important on incandescent signals. Note: If you are using LED turn signals be sure to match the ground wire with the black.

Attach the brown & black wire pair to the two wires from the left rear turn signal. Polarity is not important on incandescent signals. Note: If you are using LED turn signals be sure to match the ground wire with the black.

Route the red & blue wire pair down to the brake light switch and attach the two wires. Polarity is not important.

The rear wire connections are now completed. Secure your wiring with zip-ties.

15. Front Wiring Connections & Baja Designs Headlight Installation: Attach the black multi-pin connector from the headlight to its

corresponding mate from the switch panel. Attach the light green 4 pin connector to the key switch assembly.

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Attach the white multi-pin connector from the headlight to its

corresponding mate from the middle wiring harness. Attach the light green 4 pin connector to the key switch assembly (as shown below).

Attach the headlight to the fork tubes. Turn the steering from side to side to verify that the headlight does not bind or get caught in the steering stops.

The following connections have been pre-made prior to shipping when using the Baja Designs headlight. If you are using your factory headlight then you will need to make these connections:

DO NOT CONNECT STOCK 3 PIN HEADLIGHT PLUG INTO WHITE CONNECTOR ON FRONT HARNESS, THIS CONNECTOR IS USED TO POWER OUR ACEWELL LINE OF SPEEDOMETERS/COMPUTERS.

Flasher: The red, pink, and green w/yellow tracer are attached to

the red and black wire pair from the flasher. Horn: The red/yellow w/ black tracer pair & red wire pair attach to

the two terminals from the horn. Polarity is not important. Front Turn Signals: The green w/ yellow tracer and black wire

pair attach to the two wires from the right turn signal. The brown w/ white tracer and black wire pair attach to the two wires from the right turn signal. Note: When using LED turn signals polarity is important so be sure to match the black ground wire from the front harness to the ground on the LED turn signals. When using incandescent signals polarity is not important.

16. Stock Headlight Installation: Mount the flasher in the back of the headlight

using the factory screw that holds the lens assembly in the shell as shown in Photo 20.

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Mount the horn under odometer with the factory nut as shown in Photo 21.

Mount the turn signals to the headlight shell with the bolts that secure the shell to the upper triple clamp using the supplied brackets.

Plug the matching end of the stock headlight adapter into the factory bulb connector and plug the other end into the matching connector from the front harness.

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Photo 22 Refer to step 16 for the remaining wiring connections.

ACEWELL: All kits now come prewired with a triangular female 3-pin plug which allows you to easily power an Acewell speedometer/tachometer unit. To see the full line of Acewell speedometers visit www.BajaDesigns.com

The installation is now complete. Proceed to the next section to check your work. Switch: The Key Switch is used to control both ignition and lighting functions. The key switch must always be in the “Ignition” position indicated by the red dot on the Key Switch for the bike to run or the parking lighting to operate. In the “Ignition” position, your running light and taillight should turn on and you should be able to operate your turn signals headlight and horn. This also allows you to start your bike. System Checkout: The handlebar switch controls the lighting functions only. The lower “dot” position will allow your parking lights to turn on when the key switch is turned on. This position will also allow the use of the turn signals, brake light, headlight, and horn. Selecting the first light position will turn on your low beam and the top light position on the switch will turn on your high beam. When the high beam is selected, the top indicator light will illuminate to remind you the high beam is selected.

Headlight Low Beam On

Parking Light Position

Headlight High Beam On

NOTE: Main Power Controlled by Key Switch

Turn Signal Selector

Horn Button

High Beam Indicator

* Key Switch = Kill Switch for Ignition and Lights

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Note: The Key Switch must be on for the bike to run or any lighting functions to operate.

If everything is working properly, congratulate yourself on a job well done. If not, don’t worry; it’s not rocket science and we should be able to figure it out. All the components were checked for operation prior to being shipped to you so something is probably not connected correctly. See the trouble-shooting list in a later section. Wrapping it Up: It is important that all the wires be properly routed and secured. Double-check the photos and sketches with regards to wire routing. Make sure the wires do not pass over any sharp edges, are pulled overly tight, and cannot be crushed by the seat, tank, fender, etc. Use all the zip-ties provided to securely fasten the wires. Any unwanted movement or chafing means early failure when off the road. Note: When zip-tying the wires, do so separately of the radiator vent hoses to the overflow tank. There should be no ties around these hoses other than the ones that were stock on the bike. Make sure all the silicone rubber connector boots and the connectors are pushed firmly together and no bare metal is exposed. Put on the seat, tank, and side panels, slide on down to your local DMV, and then go roost!

Removing and reinstalling the kit: To remove the kit, simply unplug the connector

that mates the middle harness to the rear harness and the connector that joins the battery leads to the rear harness. Remove the “dual sport rear fender” with the rear harness still attached to it and reinstall the stock fender. The middle harness stays on the bike. The front signals can unbolt and unplug individually.

TROUBLESHOOTING

Nothing Happens When You Turn the Power Switch On. Main system fuse is blown. Check for bare wire or terminal shorting against the

frame or another wire. Multi-pin connector not properly connected. Battery connection poor. Make sure the connectors are fully seated. Battery is dead. Measure voltage with voltmeter, or connect a 12 volt light across it. Poor connection at the blue wire junction and the fuse lead. Check blue lead from front wiring harness where it plugs into splice connector on

brown stock lead. Main Yamaha push button switch with LED must be on.

The Turn Signals Won’t Come On, or Won’t Flash

Make sure the flasher connector is firmly seated. Check turn signal wire connections.

Note: For LED Signals, polarity is important so make sure the turn signals ground is matched with the black wire on the harness.

Make sure you have connected the correct wires to the turn signals. Check instructions.

Battery voltage is low. If the battery voltage is low, the turn signals won’t flash, or will flash very slowly. Running the bike will cure this as well as charge the battery.

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The Brake Light Won’t Come On

The rear brake system is not properly bled. Maybe it’s on already. Brake and tail connections are reversed. The brake light is

already on so there is no increase in light intensity when you activate the brake. Check the yellow and blue taillight connections.

Short the two leads together at the brake switch. If the brakelight comes on, either the brake switch is defective, or the brake system is not properly bled.

Everything Works Except the Headlight

The headlight selector switch must be on low beam or high beam. Make sure the three prong connector is correctly plugged in and that the wires

leading to it are plugged into the harness. Does the high beam indicator come on when the bike is running with high beam

selected? If so, the headlight bulb is burned out or defective.

If you still need assistance, call Baja Designs at (760) 560-2252 or email info@bajadesigns.com.

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’03-on Yamaha WR250/450F Stator Modification Instructions READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS IN THEIR ENTIRETY BEFORE BEGINNING. This is a very delicate modification that requires crimping and soldering to the stator wiring. If you do not have the proper tools or are not comfortable performing this type of work, DO NOT BEGIN. Baja Designs can perform this modification for you for $30 (call 760.560.2252 for an order number). If you choose to perform this modification yourself, it is critical that you are able to follow these instructions exactly. Any errors will cause the stator to have to be rewound completely. ‘03-on WR stators are wound with two separate coil outputs from the factory. One output charges the battery for the electric-start and the other output powers the stock lighting via its own AC circuit (no battery backup). In stock form, the battery cannot be used to power any lighting without becoming discharged. This modification joins the two existing stator outputs together into one and is necessary any time the stock battery will be used to power a lighting system (such as a dual sport or HID system). Once the stator has been modified, the stock rectifier/regulator must be replaced with a Baja Designs unit and the lighting system must be powered via DC from the battery. The stock headlight connector can no longer be used as a lighting power source. Failure to replace the rectifier/regulator or using the stock headlight connector will result in the battery discharging.

STATOR REMOVAL

1. Remove the seat and fuel tank. 2. Unplug the two plastic connectors that mate the stator wires to the main harness

between the radiators. Clip the factory zip-ties and un-route the stator wires so they hang from the left engine case cover.

3. Lay the bike on its right side (to avoid draining the engine oil) and remove the left case cover. Note that on WR450’s, one of the case bolts is hidden underneath the starter reduction gear.

4. The stator is bolted into the left case cover. Remove it from the case along with the pulsar coil (small black box) and the wire-retaining bracket.

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Photo 1

Brass tab

Locate this clip

Photo 2

Cut through clip directly above wire

Photo 3

After cutting

Photo 4 Pull up wire and scrape last ¼”

Photo 5 Squeeze to release plastic guide

STATOR MODIFICATION

1. Lay the stator on a flat work surface

as shown in Photo 1 with the yellow and white wires facing down. There are three groupings of clips that the copper wires attach to. Locate the one that has the brass tab coming out from the bottom.

2. Using a Dremel (or equivalent) high speed cut-off wheel, CAREFULLY cut

through the clip that secures the single copper wire. The goal is to free the copper wire from the clip without damaging the wire. See Photos 2 & 3. Note that if you break the copper wire, the stator will have to be rewound, so be extra careful when performing this step.

3. Once the clip has been cut, grab the wire with a pair of needle nose pliers and carefully bend it up out of the clip slot. Use a sharp blade to scrape the layer of brown enamel coating from the last ¼” of the wire to expose shiny bare copper. See Photo 4. Remove any leftover clip material that could fall out of its slot after removing the wire.

4. Use needle nose pliers to squeeze the two

tabs that lock the black plastic guide bracket into the stator and remove it from the stator. See Photo 5.

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5. Turn the stator over and unsolder the yellow wire from its tab, retaining as much wire as possible. See Photo 6.

6. Locate the strip of black sheathing in the hardware bag. Slide this sheathing over the yellow wire you just unsoldered and turn the stator back over as shown in Photo 7.

7. Locate the crimp connector in the

hardware bag. You will use this to join the yellow wire you just unsoldered to the copper wire you scraped. Insert the stripped yellow wire into one end of the crimp connector and insert the scraped copper wire into the other so they’re side by side inside the connector. Carefully crimp the connector so these wires are locked in together. Once crimped, heat it up with a soldering iron and lightly solder the connection as shown in Photo 8.

Photo 6 Guide removed

Yellow wire unsoldered

Photo 7

Sheathing on yellow wire

Photo 8

SolderCrimp connector

Yellow wire

Soldering iron

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8. Once cooled, slide the piece of sheathing over the new crimp connection. Carefully bend the copper wire to the side in the clockwise direction. Route the yellow wire between the posts directly in front of where the white wire is attached and reinstall the plastic guide bracket so the two wires are trapped like they were originally. The bracket should hold enough tension on the wire so the sheathing cannot move from its spot over the crimp connection. See Photos 9 & 10.

The modification is now complete. Before reinstalling the stator you can check your work by verifying with an Ohmmeter that the yellow and white wires from the stator have continuity only with each other and not with the metal body of the stator. There should be very low resistance (approximately 0.5 Ω) between the yellow and white wires. If it looks good, go ahead and reinstall the stator onto the motorcycle. The stock rectifier/regulator MUST be replaced with a Baja Designs unit once this modification has been performed. If not, the battery will not charge.

Photo 9 Sheathing Route yellow wire through here

Photo 10 Yellow wire

White wire

Guide reinstalled with wires trapped

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Baja Designs • 185 Bosstick Blvd. • San Marcos • CA • 92069

Phone 760.560.2252 • Fax 760.560.0383 • info@bajadesigns.com

www.bajadesigns.com

October 2011

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’07-‘11 WR250/450F DSK (PART# 12-1230) PARTS LIST CHECKOFF SHEET

DSK Headlight – Blue– Includes the following:

Headlight Shell (60-1109) Headlight Lens (60-0002) & Graphic (40-0074)

Wired Running Light (60-4006) 55/60W Bulb (13-0011)

Horn (12-2001) Flasher (60-3008)

2 - Turn Signals (5½” Wires) (60-4185)

Adjustable Rubber Strap 4- (60807)

Front Harness E w/ Key Switch(FRS female on ignition wires) (12-9031)

Rectifier/Regulator (wired for 03-on WR) (12-2004)

Individual Parts:

1 LED Dropdown Taillight 30” wires

(60-0709) 2 - Turn Signal w/ Nuts & Washers (18” Wires) (60-4185)

Switch Panel (12-9028) Electric Rear Wiring Harness (20100)

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Electric Mid Wiring Harness (22700)

License Plate Mount Assembly (60-2070) 1 - BD License Plate Frame 1 - License Plate Backing Bracket 2 - 6x20 Countersunk Bolts 4 - 6x16 Phillips Head Bolts 6 - 6mm Nuts, 6x18 Washers

Parts Bag – Includes the following:

Nissin Hydraulic Brake switch

(12-0104)

Misc. Hardware

2 6x25 Countersunk Bolts,

Bezels, 3/8”x 3/8” Aluminum Spacers

2 6x20 Countersunk Bolts, Bezels, 6x18mm Washers, 6mm Nuts

1 6x25 Countersunk Bolt, Bezel, 6x18mm Washer, 6mm Nut

2 3/8”x 5/16” Aluminum Spacers 2 5x20 Phillips Head Bolts 1 Zip-Tie Bundle 1 Brake Bleed Tubing 3 Male & Female Connectors

1 ’07-on WR250/450F DSK (PART# 12-1030) Installation Manual

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