ABC of Leatherworking

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IntroductionLeather, one of mankinds oldest natural resources, is a foremost gift to man from Mother Nature. Without it man might not have survived.

The history of leather is closely merged with the progress of mankind. Long before man devised a written alphabet, he communicated through simple drawings or sign language. Many of these messages were done on skins of animals which he killed for food. With the skins of animals he was able to clothe and shelter himself. Modern archaeology has uncovered leather articles and artifacts from cultures dating back over 33 centuries and found them to be in an excellent state of preservation.

The ancient Romans used leather as currency, and the style and quality of a Romans sandals conveyed his status in society.

When man realized the importance of recording his thoughts and knowledge in books which he could carry and store more conveniently than stone tablets, he began to express himself on parchment leather pages.

During the Middle Ages, however, only the wealthy could afford boots, capes, saddles, etc. made of leather. Leather workmanship was limited to a very narrow section of society. A secretive lot, Leather Guildsmen closely guarded knowledge of their art which they handed down from father to son.

When Cortez conquered Mexico in the early 16th century, leather artistry came boldly into the New World. The Conquistadores brought horses and with them came the need for saddles and other horse gear. Spain had long been a leader in leather artistry and the skilled craftsmen who came over to the New Land coupled their vast knowledge with the inspiration they leaned from the beautiful floral patterns to be found all about them. Thus came the transition from basic geometric designs dating back to medieval times to the floral patterns of modern artistry.

Today anyone can enjoy leatherwork, the art of creating beautiful and useful articles of leather. Just as early man learned his ABCs on leather, this section is designed to teach you some of the basics of working with leather.

To decorate leather by carving, you need a small group of specially designed tools: swivel knife, camouflage, beveler, pear shader, veiner, seeder, backgrounder and mallet. These tools enable you to create basic leather articles. As your skill and enthusiasm grow you will want to add more tools to your collection. Of course you also need leather.

Leather is unique, different from any cloth put together by man, for it is the actual skin of an animal that grew as the animal grew. The skins of bovine animals (cows, oxen, etc.) provide most of the leather for carving. These skins must be vegetable tanned so that they will readily absorb moisture, allowing you to mold and form the leather easily.

Leather is usually sold by the square foot and is measured by special machines at the tanneries. The number of square feet is usually marked on the underside of the hide with a marker, chalk or machine stamp. Known as a skin, the complete hide of the animal may be left whole or cut into sections: sides, bellies, backs and shoulders.

Instructions and techniques for successful leatherworking

of Lea

therworking

of Lea

therworking

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The thickness (or weight) of leather is usually measured in terms of ounces. One ounce equals approximately 1/64" in thickness. Thus, 7-8 oz. means the leather is 7 to 8 oz. in weight or 7/64" to 8/64", making it approxi-mately 1/8" thick. Lighter weight leather such as calf or kip (large calf) range from 1.5 oz. to 3-4 oz. Heavier leathers, 4-5 oz. to 10-11 oz. and more are from the hides of mature cattle.

To make leather a uniform thickness, the hides are run through a splitting machine. Since animal hides are not of uniform thickness and since they are wet when put through the splitting machine, the thickness of the leather will not remain the same throughout the hide. There will always be slight variations and thats why leather weights seldom measure out in exact 64ths of an inch. This is why leathers are usually shown as 4-5 oz., 6-7 oz., etc.

Now that you have been introduced to the history of leatherwork, you are ready to begin to learn to create luxurious leather articles. Start with a billfold or key case. Soon youll be making handbags, bowling bags, sporting goods, etc. Or, you may wish to begin your leatherwork hobby by making a pair of moccasins or sandals, or decorating your home with wall hangings and other accessories.

For centuries, leather has fulfilled a great need in mans life. So, full speed ahead. Youll be entering a fulfilling, creative hobby youll enjoy all the years of your life.

Do not grip tightly.

1. Pivot action aids in minimizing wrist and arm movement. Use this motion for light tool impressions.

2. Wrist and arm action creates most striking force. Use this motion for deep tool impressions.

water

How to Moisten The LeatherVegetable tanned tooling leather must be moistened with water before you can work with it. This procedure is called casing. As you wet the leather, the fibers swell and soften, thus enabling you to stamp and shape it. Leather is moistened by rubbing a damp sponge on it. Be sure your hands are clean. Rub the damp sponge on the flesh side and then on the grain side. Apply the water as evenly as possible. When the leather begins to return to its natural color, begin stamping. If your leather dries before you complete the tooling design, it will be necessary to remoisten. Be sure you case the entire piece to avoid water spots.

Caution: Always use glass or plastic containers for the water. Metal containers may cause the leather to stain.

How to Use Craftool StampsEnhance the beauty of your leather projects with Craftool stamps. These may be used to create original designs or for embellishing the beauty of your carved design. Use a wood or rawhide mallet head to strike the top of the stamp to obtain its impression in the leather.

Caution: Never strike Craftool stamps with a metal faced hammer, as this will damage tools.

Hold both the mallet and decorative stamping tool upright in a secure, but relaxed manner. Hold the mallet in the center of the handle with your fingers rather than the palm of your hand.

Subdivisions of a HideThe definitions of the various parts of a hide are shown below.

Side A + C + E or B + D + F

Single ShoulderA or B

Double ShoulderA + B

BackA + C or B + D

BellyE or F

A B

C D

E F

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Corner SlitUse Single Prong Punch To Adjust Slit Spacing

3/32"

3/32"4-Prong Punch

Stay On Guideline

After punching corner slits, begin punching with multi-prong punch. Space first slit (from corner) same width as the punch blade (3/32").

Remove tool and place first prong in last slit, punch again.

Continue punching to corner.

If slits do not come out properly spaced at corner, use single prong punch to punch remaining slits.

First Prong EntersLast Slit Punched

Step 1 Step 2

Step 3 Step 4

How to Punch Lacing HolesPunch lacing holes after all project parts are cemented together around the edges. For lacing around edges, use a Wing Divider (#3607-00) to mark a line around edges to ensure holes follow in a straight line.1. Use a single prong Craftool Thonging Chisel (#8040 or #8044) to punch around corners and in places where there is not room for multi-prong chisels.2. Multi-prong Thonging Chisels (#8042 or #8046) come with various numbers of prongs. A chisel of 4 or more prongs makes punching faster. After you punch once, set the end prong back in the last hole you punched and hit punch with mallet. This gives you three new holes and by placing one prong in the last hole, all holes come out perfectly spaced.

Note: Place Poundo Board (#3461-01) on top of Marble Slab (#32228-00) and then place your leather to be punched on top of poundo board. The marble provides a firm base and the poundo board will help protect your chisel from becoming dull or chipped. Strike the chisel hard enough to go through the leather, but not hard enough to go all the way through the poundo board.

How to LaceLacing puts the finishing touch to handmade leather articles. How good the finished project looks depends very much on the lacing. Thus, how you lace will have a great deal of importance in the appearance of the finished project. With the following instructions and illustra-tions, plus a little practice, you will soon be doing a neat, smooth job of lacing.

Note: Always lace with stamped or finished side of the project facing you.

Threading a 2-Prong Lacing NeedleNote: You should load two yards of lacing in lacing needle at a time. Working with longer pieces of lacing will be difficult and can cause the lacing to wear and become frayed as it is pulled through the lacing holes.

Attaching Lace to Two-Prong Needle

Skive off end of lace with knife.

Step 1

Step 3

Step 2 Spring open needle. Insert skived end into needle, smooth side up (as shown). Close needle on lace with needle nose pliers or tap lightly with mallet so that prongs pierce lace and lock in place. To remove lace, spring open needle.Point skived end.

Smooth side of lace

A

N

NAD

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

Using Craftool Alphabet and 3-D StampsAlphabet stamps are a quick way of personalizing your leathercraft projects. 3-D stamps come in a wide variety of designs like animals, pictorials, symbols, etc.

Using Alphabet & 3-D Stamps,For best results:1. Make sure leather is moistened (see page 25). 2. Place leather on top of a firm surface like marble. This will help you create deep impres-sions.3. Properly position stamp(s) on leather (Fig. 1).4. Place handle in stamp (Fig. 2).5. Make sure you hold the handle down firmly while striking with mallet (Fig. 3). This will pre-vent the stamp from bouncing. Bouncing creates undesirable multiple impressions on the leather.

Proper positioning of stamp.

A

A

Correct Incorrect

Result Result

Fig. 1

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How to Lace & Splice the Double Loop StitchRecommendations: Use 3/32" or 1/8" lace with the same sized slits or holes. Double-Loop Lacing uses 7-8 times more lace than the length of the project (ex: 2 will need 14 to 16 of lace).

When lacing a corner, stitch through 3 corner slits or holes twice each.

Follow the same procedures as in Step 1 & 2

making a cross (bight). Stitch under the bight and pull stitch snug.

Be sure to go through bight (cross) on all corner stitches.

Lace through the next hole. The end

of the lace is now locked in place.

Pull stitch under bight snug, but not too tight. Lace through next slit.

Begin on front side, push needle through first slit or hole. Leave 3/4" lace end and continue on to next slit or hole.

Step 1

Step 5

Step 9

Step 13

Step 6 Step 7 Step 8


Pull stitch tight; lace over the end you left free. This forms a cross or bight.

Push needle under cross (or bight). Hold end

of lace down on opposite side.

Bight (Cross)Hold end of lace down

with finger. Continue holding

down end.

End of lace can be released.

Lace through 3 corner holes twice.

Pull old lace tight. Cut off end at an angle, allowing about 1/2" to remain.

When you have laced to starting point, use modeling stylus to pull end of the beginning lace free of stitches.

From back side, pull the end of lace out of slit.

From front side, pull end of lace out of the loop.

Tuck end of lace between leathers and continue your project with the old lace.

Tuck end of old lace between leathers. Lace over with new lace so its caught and wont show. Continue lacing.

Lace until only 8" of lace remains. You will now have to splice the lace.

Approximately 8"New lace

Needle Tuck end between leathers

Tuck end between leathers Loop


Spread leathers apart

Splicing: Insert new needle & lace down between leathers, 4 slits from lacing; pull out back; leave 3/4" of end between leathers.


Cut off end of lace you have

pulled out and tuck end between leath-ers. Lace through the next slit.

Pull stitch tight and lace up through loop from back side. All slits on the back side should be filled.

Lace under the bight. Do not pull this stitch tight.

Pull needle through. Push laced edges together to adjust starting loops for easier completion.

Pull any slack out of the first loop and adjust lacing with fingers to make all stitches appear equal.

Push stylus tip of modeling tool down between leathers and hook it over end of the lace.

Pull end of lace out of slit and up between leathers. Two empty slits should appear on the front side; one on the back.

Carefully cross over as shown and push the needle down through loop.

Maintain LoopLoop

Cut off end

LoopTuck end

between leathers

Step 17

Step 21 Step 22 Step 23 Step 24


Pull end of lacing down tight. Make sure all stitches appear even and equally spaced.

Push needle through the last slit as shown. Bring it up between the leathers and out between lacing.

Carefully cut off end of lacing. Tap lacing flat with mallet or roll flat with a wooden dowel.

Sharp Knife


Loop

Point end

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How to Lace the Whipstitch - #2The following instructions for the Whipstitch are for use on projects with common begin-ning and ending points such as billfolds. The amount of lacing required for the Whipstitch is about 3 to 3-1/2 times the distance to be laced.

Thread the needle and then pierce the opposite end of the lace with a sharp knife leaving a 1/8" slit.

Continue lacing, tightening the lace as you go.

Pull the first loop tight, over end of lace as shown.

Lace through the last hole in front, then through last hole on back again, then through the first loose loop as shown.

Lace around project leav-ing a loose loop in second

hole from the beginning stitch. There will be one

un-laced hole between first and last stitch.

Begin lacing, starting between the two layers of leather. Leave about 1/4" at the end where you slit.

Pull end of lace tight to take slack out of last loop. Cut off end of lace with sharp knife and tap all lac-ing flat with a smooth-faced mallet.

Begin lacing, starting in between the layers of leather. Leave about 1/2" at the end.

Push needle through the second hole. Pull stitch up tight. Continue lacing, tightening the lace as you go.

Push needle through last hole as shown. Bring it up between the leathers and out between lacing. Carefully cut off the end of lacing.

Lace through hole as shown. Keep the lace from twisting. Pull the stitch up tight to lock the lace.

Step 1 Step 2

Step 4Step 3

Lacing Needle

Grain

Flesh

Step 2

Push needle through second hole, then thread it through slit in end of lace and through opposite hole.

Step 8

Step 4

Step 6

Beginning Stitch

Beginning Stitch

Loose Loop

Sewing a Running StitchThe amount of lace needed for the running stitch is 1-1/2 times the distance to be laced.

Step 2

Step 1

Step 3

Step 6

Lace to the second to last hole and leave a loose hole.

Push the needle through the next hole from the back, through the slit and out through the opposite hole in front.

Step 4

Pull the stitch up tight to lock the lace. Continue lacing remainder of project.

Step 5

Pull the beginning stitch tight and continue lacing, pulling the stitches tight as you go.

Beginning Stitch

Loose Loop

Step 7

Push needle through last holes. Spread leathers; push needle through next-to-last hole on back, bring needle up between leathers.

Beginning Stitch

Step 8

Pull loose loop tight and continue pulling all slack out of the lace.

Step 9

Pull all stitching tight; pull end of lace tight. Trim off end of lace close to leather, tap all lacing flat with smooth mallet.

Begin lacing, starting between the two layers of leather. Leave about 1/4" at the end where you slit.

Thread the needle and then pierce the opposite end of the

lace with a sharp knife leaving a 1/8" slit.

Lacing Needle

Grain

Flesh

How to Lace the Whipstitch - #1The following instructions for the Whipstitch are for use on a project with separate beginning and ending points. The amount of lacing required for the whipstitch is 3 to 3-1/2 times the distance to be laced.

Step 1

Step 7

Step 3

Step 5

Tandy Leather Factory store managers are experts in leathercraft. They are happy to answer any questions you may have, as well as demonstrate any leathercraft technique.

Beginning Stitch

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Push end of thread through needle eye about 1/2".

Pierce thread with needle point as shown.

Push thread up on needle. Pull end of thread through eye as far as it will go. Hold needle and pull thread over eye to lock end of thread.


Push needle from back side through same hole and pull stitch tight. To finish off, back stitch through last two holes and cut threads off flush with leathers.

Push needle from back side through same hole. Use care not to puncture thread with second needle. Pull stitch tight. Push nee-dle from front side through third hole.

Push one needle through first hole and pull to center of thread. Push needle from front side through second hole.

Step 1


Step 2 Step 3

How to Apply Leather FinishLeather finishes are applied to protect the leather and preserve the qualities and appear-ance. Before applying leather finish, there are several points which you should know. Alltoolingofthedesignmustbecompletedbeforefinishisapplied. Be sure the surface area is dry and clean of any dirt, dust or other matter. Leatherfinishesmustbeappliedpriortoassembly.1. Press a sponge dampened slightly with water to the top of a bottle of leather finish and tip the bottle so a little finish flows onto the sponge.2. Apply a light coat of finish to the carved side of the leather, moving the sponge in a circular motion over the leather. Work the finish into the cuts and impressions.3. Let the finish dry thoroughly, then apply a second coat if you desire a shinier finish. Allow the piece to dry thoroughly.4. If a high gloss is desired, buff the leather with a piece of sheepskin or a clean, soft, lint-free cloth. The project is now ready to be assembled, either by stitching with waxed thread or by lacing with leather or plastic lace.

How to Thread the NeedleNote: Attach a needle to each end of thread, following these instructions.

How to Hand Stitch Using 2 NeedlesThe amount of thread required for Hand Stitch is about 3 times the distance to be stitched.

How to Hand Stitch Using 1 NeedleThe amount of thread required for Hand Stitching is about 3 times the distance to be stitched.

Push needle through first hole in top piece only, leaving about a 2" tail of thread between the pieces of leather. Stitch through second hole in both pieces of leather and then through third hole. Continue stitch-ing in this manner to last hole, pull-ing each stitch tight.

When you reach the last hole, turn and begin stitching back to starting point, filling in alternate stitches. Stitch to beginning hole.

When you reach the beginning hole, go through hole in bottom piece only, bring needle up between the two pieces of leather. Tie end of thread to the 2" tail remaining at the beginning with a double knot. Pull tight between the pieces of leather and trim off excess thread. Tap stitches flat with a mallet.

Hand Stitching

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use These 2 Setters For Glove Snaps

Stud & Eyelet SETTER

Socket & Cap SETTER

Socket & Cap SETTER

use These 2 Setters For Line 16 Snaps

#8103 Snap Setter SetThree Setters & an Anvil for Setting Glove & Line 16 Snaps

ANVIL

use smaller concave circle for settingGlove CAP

Line 16 Snap Parts:

SOCkET

CAP

STud

EYELET

SOCkET

CAP

Glove Snap Parts:

STud

EYELET

use larger concavecircle for settingline 16 CAP

use Flat back Side of ANVIL to set All EYELETS

SETTING CAPS & SOCkETS

SOCkETS

Glove SnapSetter

Line 16 SnapSetter

Position snap parts as shown. Insert setter and strike firmly with mallet.

SETTING STudS & EYELETS

STudS

use same setter for Glove & Line 16 Studs & Eyelets

SettingLine 16 Snap

SettingGlove Snap

LEATHERLEATHER

3/16" HOLE5/32" HOLE1/8" HOLE3/32" HOLE

EYELETS on ANVIL

use Flat back Side of ANVIL to set All EYELETSCAPS in CONCAVE CIRCLES on ANVIL

(On Hard Surface)

Stud Socket

Eyelet Cap

#8056 Anvil

No. 8058 Sets Line 24 Snaps

No. 8057 Sets Line 20 Snaps

How to Set Line 20 & Line 24 SnapsUse these snaps for holsters, straps, vests, etc. where a firm fastener is required.

Line 20 is for 5 to 7 oz. leather. Line 24 is for 8 to 10 oz. leather.

Stud Socket

Cap

Anvil

Grain Side Flesh Side

Eyelet

Craftool Line 20 & Line 24 Setters

Marble Surface

Set Snaps in Strap as Shown. Punch proper size holes for eyelet and cap. Insert parts, set tool in position and strike firmly with mallet.

How to Set Glove & Line 16 Snaps

Use a wood or rawhide mallet on the setting tools.

Never use a hammer.

See our full line of snaps and other fasteners on pages 114-117 of our 2009 Leathercraft Catalog.

#8103-10 Snap Setter Set

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How to Set RivetsFor permanently fastening leather & other materials.

Cap

Post

Post

Cap

Rapid Rivets

Punch proper size holes for the rivets. Push post through from back side of project. Place on marble surface, the cap on post, with concave face of setter on cap. Strike setter sharply with mallet. For double cap rivets, set the same as regular rivets except you must use an #8056 Anvil under the cap of the post.

Craftool Rivet Setter #8100

Rapid Rivets are available in several sizes and lengths. Select the proper size and length for your specific project. To properly adjoin, rivet post should extend about 1/8" above combined thickness of materials.

Double Cap Rivet

Marble Surface

Finished side of material.

#8056 Anvil

Craftool Rivet Setter #8100

Expect the best from Tandy Leather Factory with: Outstanding Customer Service Leatherwise Personnel Best Prices Best Selection End of Season Returns Allowed Free Camp Staff Training

Step 2

Step 3

Braiding the Three-Strand Mystery BraidStep 1

Step 4

Make two cuts in leather strip, dividing it into 3 equal parts joined at both ends. Edge and burnish each strip if you wish.

Pass the lower end of strip through the slit between strands 2 and 3.

With resulting braid kept at the bottom, go to the top end and pass strands 1 over 2, 3 over 1 and 2 over 3. Now pass the lower end of strip between strands 2 and 3.

Again pass strands 1 over 2, 3 over 1 and 2 over 3. Braiding cycle is now complete, appearing as in Fig. 4. To continue braiding, follow Steps 2, 3 and 4 until strands are not long enough to complete another full cycle (Steps 2, 3, and 4). Equalize and smooth braid.

To see our full line of products, visit us at tandyleatherfactory.com or request a 2009 catalog from your nearest store. CAM

PCRAFTS

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1900 S E Loop 820Fort Worth, TX 76140-1003

Prices are subject to change without notice. We are not responsible for pictorial or typographical errors. Printed in the U.S.A.

Source Code 901CF Offers Expire 8/31/09 Prices are in US Dollars

Flashlight KitNo more stumbling around in the dark, ever again, with our flashlight kit. Perfect for use in the cabin or tent, walking to a ceremonial campfire or snipe-hunting. Decorate the included 2" leather rounder, secure to wrist cord and youre ready to go. A useful camp project that can be used for years to come. Approximately 5-1/2" long and uses two AA batteries (included). Available in yellow. 47027-00 Ret. $5.99 only 49kit

Youth Group Leathercraft SetDiscover the fun of leathercrafting with the basics of stamping and painting. Teach kids pride in accomplishment by letting them craft their own leath-er items. Contains 50 projects. Kit includes eight wooden mallets, twelve stamping tools, 1/2" alphabet set, one extra handle for alphabet set, six Cova Color paints, ten brushes, two sponges, one 25-pack wristbands and one 25-pack of bookmarks. 55511-01 Ret. $229.99 your price 15000 set

close-oUt special

only 49limiteD qUantities

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2009 Camp& leathercraft supply guide Flyer Code 901CF

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ABC of Leatherworking