Acknowledge Men 1 of Malwa

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    NORTHERN INDIA INSTITUTE OF FASHION

    TECHNOLOGY

    LUDHIANA

    INTERNSHIP REPORT

    INTERNSHIP DONE AT

    MALWA INDUSTRIES LTD.

    LUDHIANA

    JUNE-JULY 2011

    SUBMITTED BY: - ARBIND KUMAR

    LOVEJEET

    FASHION DESIGN 2009-2012

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    MALWA

    ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

    I would like to thank Mr.Vishav Bandhu, Centre incharge NIIFT

    Ludhiana for providing us with this opportunity. Ms. Deepti Sharma,

    course co-ordinator Fashion Design Department NIIFT Ludhiana forall the encouragement and support.

    I would like to thank Mr. Tanveer [H.R] for allowing us to undergo this

    internship at MALWA INDUSTRIES LTD. (LUDHIANA). I would alsolike to thank Mr. Deepak [I.E.D] for his guidance and support

    throughout this internship project at MALWA INDUSTRIES LTD.

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    MALWA

    PREFACE

    My summer training started on 8th JUNE, 2011 in MALWA INDUSTRIES LIMITED,

    LUDHIANA. I was assigned all department team for brand Levis and Topshop to work with.

    During my Internship Project, I completed three phases of my project, which are:

    1) First Stage:

    Department: Production

    Mentor: Mr. Tanveer

    Topic: Production divided into show many category likecutting, stitching, Washing,

    finishing, etc.

    2) Second Stage:

    Department: Design

    Mentor: Pritha Sood

    Topic: Designer explores new design for Buyer.

    3) Third stage:

    Department: Product Merchandising

    Mentor: Mr. Yatish

    Topic: Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed,

    executed and presented to the Buyer.

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    MALWACONTENTS

    1COMPANY PROFIL

    2FABRIC STORE

    3DESIGNE SECTION

    4SAMPLE DEPARTMENT

    5CUTTING DEPARTMENT

    6CAD DEPARTMENT

    7STITCHING DEPARTMENT

    8WASHING DEPARTMENT

    9FINISHING DEPARTMENT

    10QUALITY MANAGEMENT

    11HUMAN RESORCE DEPARTMENT (H.R.D)

    12MARCHANDISING DEPARMENT

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    MALWA

    COMPANY PROFILE

    Company Name : Malwa Industries Limited

    Business Types : Manufacturer

    Owner : Mr. Rishi Oswal

    Product/Service : Denim Fabric in All Range, Denim

    Jean

    Year of Establishment : 1997

    Brands : Malwa Denim

    Number of Employees : Above 1000 people

    Production Capacity : 2.5million pieces annually

    Annual Turnover :

    Address : Machhiwara, Ludhiana, Punjab

    Company Website URL: http://www.malwagroup.com

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    MALWA

    MALWA

    ABOUT MALWA

    HISTORY

    In 1997, Mr. Rishi Oswal, the scion of the Oswal family and the ManagingDirector of Malwa Industries Limited started the denim manufacturing facilityin response to the increased market demand for Jeans in the 1990's. Commercialoperations started in FY97-98 and since then the company has been growing ata fast pace.

    MANUFACTURE

    MIL achieves a current production capacity of 20 million meters of denimfabrics & 4.50 million pairs of Jeans annually. The facility brings to Malwa'sfold, prized knowledge of emerging fashion trends in denim making MIL atrendsetter by virtue of this knowledge. This facility also adds 2.5million piecesannually in capacities to Malwa's denim stable.

    DESIGN AND PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

    Our core strength is being Product Development & Design inputs supported byin- house studio .our success products are exported to over 40countriesworldwide where these are sold under some of the biggest denim brands &designer labels that come to mind. Malwa has today, become synonymous withsuperlative quality & product excellence. In recognition of its excellent trackrecord in Exports, it has been honoured with Export Performance Awards by theGovt. of India in recent years.

    The Spring / Summer 2012 collection is a unique blend of sophisticated and rawlooks created through an intriguing play of Colors, Weaves, Yarns & Fibers.

    With real time knowledge of the latest trends, finishes & looks in denimwearfrom its Italian operation, Malwa has crafted the most exquisite collection offabrics & garments that promises to leave you spellbound).

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    MALWA

    MALWA COTTON SPINNING MILLS LTD. (MCSM)

    Malwa Cotton Spinning Mills Ltd or MCSM is among the top ten textile millsin the Indian sub-continent. The Mills are situated amidst the rich cottongrowing belts of India namely Punjab and Himachal Pradesh in Northern India.The total spindleage of both the units is around 140000.

    The mills are equipped with hi-tech state-of-the-art machineries from world-renowned textile machinery manufacturers like Rieter, Trutszler, Crossrol,Schlafhorst and Savio.

    All the above process machines are also equipped with latest on-line qualitycontrol equipments combined with computerized information system. Worldwide recognized & accepted high-reliability Uster quality control equipmentsform the core of our R&D and constant monitoring quality control department.

    Malwa yarn is well sought after by domestic & international markets. An ever-growing demand for our products in the global markets is evident from ourexpanding export base. Malwa yarn conforms to the most stringent InternationalQuality standards in production.

    We procure the best quality acrylic fiber from world-renowned manufacturersand produce Acrylic cotton yarn & high bulk Acrylic yarn. Dye house facility atour Works enables us to produce dyed yarn of exact shades. We also producepolyester yarn, polyester cotton yarn, viscose yarn, dyed viscose yarn andviscose cotton yarn. Raw materials like polyester& viscose too are procuredonly from reputed manufacturers.

    The Life Solutions Advantage:

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    It is a Group of Professionals which ultimately saves Time and Cost ofthe Client.

    Eliminate fake candidatures/enriched database/authenticate resumes. Fully equipped to help organizations focus on their core areas of business,

    which demand their creative and management time. We are a team of experienced domain specialists providing clients with

    high quality solutions in Recruitments, training, managementconsultancy.

    We develop total HR solutions that deliver higher levels of businesssuccess at affordable costs where distance is of no relevance.

    To offer our Private and Institutional clients a structural multilevel andmultitasking range of services that translate into a unique and visionaryall-in-one product.

    We bring to your disposal all the expertise, experience, connections andinformation to facilitate this process for you.

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    MALWA

    FABRIC STORE

    The purpose of the fabric store is primarily to check the quality and quantity ofthe fabric upon its arrival, but also to store them, maintain stock levels and giveissuance.

    Further a form is also attached which carries the information regarding thefabric i.e. roll#, the amount of quantity on each roll, and total amount of fabricin meters.

    Store supervisors verify and tally the information with their record and unload

    the fabric and store it in their fabric store.

    IGWP(inward gate pass) is attached with FRN(fabric receipt note). FRN whichcarries the information regarding the fabric is entered in ledger book.

    Depending whether the fabric is Denim or Twill it is entered accordingly in therespect ledgers. FRN is then sent to the Commercial department in which thecommercial department enters the Dyeing contract number. FRN again comesback to fabric store where it is entered into the computer. Further acomputerized FRN is issued to commercial department for record purpose,which carries the dyeing contract number. It should be noted here that records infabric store are kept in registers as well as on computers.

    Quality control department then randomly selects the rolls from the receivedfabric and does quality check on it. Usually quality check is done onswatches/pieces of fabric with their respective rolls. Further after checkingsampling or cutting department sends a request asking for rolls of fabric whichhave been checked by quality department.

    http://www.denimstudy.com/fabric-store.htmlhttp://www.denimstudy.com/fabric-store.html
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    MALWA

    TYPES OF DEFECTS:-

    Knots: - Cause by tying spools of yarn together.

    Miss pack: - Mixed yarn is a different fiber blend used on the warpframe, resulting in a streak in the fabric.

    Starting Mark: - When the loop is started, the yarn elongates under

    tension; the slack is woven into the fabric.

    Multiply Breakage:-caused by broken needle.

    Missing End: - yarn of a different fiber blend used on the warp frame,

    resulting in a streak in the fabric.

    Floats: - Yarn passes without interlacements of warp or weft.

    Cracks:-These are light streaks that usually in garment that do not follow

    warp yarn.

    Double End: - any extra yarn used by the weaving, during the warp

    direction.

    Snarls:-It form due to less tension in yarn or due to more twist.

    Thick warp: -less twisted in yarn then normal twist in the yarn.

    Double Pick: - due to problem in electrical sensor does not work

    problem.

    Slabs:-Usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is woven into fabric.

    It can also be caused by thick places in the yarn. Often is caused by fly

    waste being spun in yarn in the spinning process.

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    DESIGN SECTION:-

    In Design section Designer Explore New design for Buyer and communicatewith new buyer. They make Sample according to the tech sheet given by the

    buyer.

    COLLECTION:-

    Collection made by designer for 2 sessions

    1. Spring / Summer '2. Autumn / winter

    DESIGNE PROSSES: -

    1. Theme Board

    2. Mood Board

    3. Inspiration Board4. Story Board

    5. Color Board

    6. Sketch

    7. Pattern

    8. FINAL Garment

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    SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

    There are different phases of sampling the first phase covers the development of

    the initial concept or design idea through its approval by the buyer and full

    review/ risk analysis by the development and production terms.

    Person Involved in sampling: -

    Development Team

    Designers/Sample developers

    Garment Technologists

    Packing & Dispatch Sourcing & Dispatch

    Costing & Finance

    Sales & Marketing

    Production Team, Planning

    Control & testing

    Quality Control

    SAMPLING PROCESS: -

    1. Tech pack & spec sheet

    2. Patteren devolved

    3. Proto sample

    4. Fit sample

    5. Size set sample

    6. Pre production7. Pilot run

    SAMPLE ROOM & QUALITY CHECK

    1. Before wash garment stitching quality check

    2. Before wash garment inspection report

    3.After wash garment inspection report

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    4.After wash garment measurement report

    5. All sample quality and measurement assurance

    6.Before dispatch put signature on all measurement format

    7.Check quality and needle point in sampling

    8.All sample devolved according tech pack

    9.Discuss any technical quality issue with

    INPORTANCE AND NEED OF SAMPLING

    Sampling is the best way to place an order through it is difficult and fine

    ending process it will help the exporter to get the order from the buyer.

    The purpose of sampling is not only to get bulk order and also it gives some

    additional benefits to the exporters. By doing sampling the exporter can

    estimate the yarn consumption for developing the fabric a clear idea on

    costing and manufacturing difficulties.

    Besides, by doing sampling the exporter can optimized the processing

    parameters for mass, which helps to avoid all kinds of bottle necks. The

    samples, decide the ability of an exporter. The buyer will assess the exporter

    and this organization only by the samples.

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    MALWA

    DEPARTMENT OF CUTTING

    Once the fabric sample is approved, the cutting department must ensure that proper cuttingmust be made according to the size requirements of the customer.

    Cutting basically means the cutting of the fabric into required sizes so that it can be stitchedinto the required size and shape. The cutting department starts it working after it has beenprovided with the cutting standard by the PPC.

    As told before in report before bulk production starts, a sample has to be approved, andsample approval is done before cutting. First of all a Zero base pattern is made. FurtherDetails of Cutting Standard and Order Closing is sent to quality department, where thequality department gives it comprehensive fabric analysis report especially shrinkage valuesto the cutting department. Then marker making of single size is done, fabric sample is cut out

    and stitched. There-after before wash measurements are done on the sample and sent towashing. After the fabric sample arrives from the washing department it is again measuredfor any changes. After that the fabric sample graded (given positive or negative valuesaccording to the amount of shrinkage) and that is done by tallying the made sample with theapproved sample.

    Grading helps to cut the bulk fabric, as it minimizes errors. Because according to how muchfabric is shrinking the fabric would be cut accordingly.

    When the fabric sample is approved the sample goes to the cutting master, who grades all thesizes according to the approved sample. He feeds all the sizes into the computer system and

    Gerber plotter makes a maker for all sizes required in the cutting standard.

    Further shade wise fabric layering starts to take place, the fabric is relaxed and the marker isplaced on top of the pile of fabrics and the fabrics are cut according to the marker.

    After cutting, folding is done; folding is basically the marking of the fabric according to thesize, lot, amount of pieces and etc. After that shade matching is done because when the fabricis stitched it should have one shade, not that front panel is of some other tone and the backpanel of other. After that the cut fabric is collected and fed to the stitching department by thefeeding department.

    Sequence in Cutting Room:Marker Making

    Fabric Spreading

    Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay

    http://www.denimstudy.com/department-of-cutting.htmlhttp://articles.textileclass.com/comparative-study-between-manual-cad-marker-making-system/http://articles.textileclass.com/comparative-study-between-manual-cad-marker-making-system/http://articles.textileclass.com/what-is-fabric-spreading-in-garment-processing/http://articles.textileclass.com/what-is-fabric-spreading-in-garment-processing/http://articles.textileclass.com/what-is-fabric-spreading-in-garment-processing/http://articles.textileclass.com/comparative-study-between-manual-cad-marker-making-system/http://www.denimstudy.com/department-of-cutting.html
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    MALWA

    Fabric Cutting

    Numbering

    100% checking & Parts Replacing if needed.

    Shorting & Bundling

    Input toSewingRoom.

    Only Expert Cutting Masters are allowed in Cutting Section of Garment to operate the whole

    cutting process of Garment Cloth. If any faults happen during cutting; the rest of the Garment

    manufacturing process would be badly hampered.

    Here is a list of cutting tools and accessories often used on cutting department in garmentindustry:

    1. Straight Knife.

    2. Band Knife

    3. End Cutter.

    Working principle of Straight Knife as Cutting Accessories

    The Working Principle of Straight Knife of Garment Manufacturing which is used on sectionis below -

    1. Firstly, switch on this cutting machine.

    2. Then place the cutting machine at any corner of the table

    3. Then switch on the blade.

    4. Then the operator moves the machine by hand through the stationary fabric layers and cutalong marker lines until finish the marker.

    http://articles.textileclass.com/methods-of-cutting-fabric-uses-of-scissor/http://articles.textileclass.com/methods-of-cutting-fabric-uses-of-scissor/http://articles.textileclass.com/sewing-machines-for-apparels/http://articles.textileclass.com/sewing-machines-for-apparels/http://articles.textileclass.com/sewing-machines-for-apparels/http://articles.textileclass.com/working-principle-of-straight-knife-as-cutting-accessories/http://articles.textileclass.com/band-knife-cutting-machine-garment-accessories/http://articles.textileclass.com/band-knife-cutting-machine-garment-accessories/http://articles.textileclass.com/working-principle-of-straight-knife-as-cutting-accessories/http://articles.textileclass.com/sewing-machines-for-apparels/http://articles.textileclass.com/methods-of-cutting-fabric-uses-of-scissor/
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    Disadvantage of straight knife as cutting machine.

    1. Blade deflection occurs so quality may be hamper.

    2. Skill hand required.

    2. Band Knife Machine:1. This machine worked as saw mill technique.

    2. Not possible tocut fabricdirectly from lay.

    3. Block pieces of fabric required in bundle form to cut by this machine.

    4. Blade moving vertically through a flat working table.

    5. Machine remains stationary and fabric is moveable.

    6. Specially used to cut small parts more accurately.

    Disadvantages of Band Knife Machine:1. Fabric wastage is high.

    2. Work load high.

    3. Push cutting needles in better vision but is more dangerous.

    3. End Cutter: -This is suitable for plies end cutting because every plies should be equaldimension.Spreading:-

    It is the process of arraning fabrics on the spreading table as per length and width of themarker in stack form. Normally height of the lay/ fabric is limited up to maximum 2and 1/2inches high.

    A spread or lay-up is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single marker.

    Fabric cutting:-

    On the fabric lay/ spread the marker paper is placed carefully and accurately and pinned with

    the fabric to avoid unwanted movement or displacement of the marker paper. Normally

    straight knife cutting machine is used to cut out the garment component as per exact

    dimension of each pattern in stack form care must be taken to avoid cutting defect.

    Sticker:-After Lays cutting, workers sticks a sticker on each piece with serial number and

    with cut, size number. After that arranged a serial number wise each & every pieces.

    http://articles.textileclass.com/methods-of-cutting-fabric-uses-of-scissor/http://articles.textileclass.com/methods-of-cutting-fabric-uses-of-scissor/http://articles.textileclass.com/methods-of-cutting-fabric-uses-of-scissor/http://articles.textileclass.com/methods-of-cutting-fabric-uses-of-scissor/
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    Bundling:-

    After cutting is over, bundles are made as per their sizes, a particular code is given to

    particular panel to prevent the mixing. Numbering is also done after bundling

    For a particular panel of a particular layer to give a unique identification to it) so that each

    piece of same pattern / size is sewed together from the same lot of fabric to avoid alteration

    and rejections.

    - Once the cutting is over, an indent is issued to the store for procurement of theexact number of trims / threads that are required for the particular lot.

    - Helpers will collect the materials and give it to the lines.After every thing has been organized, all the ready material is then fed onto the respective

    lines for production

    CUTTING DEPARTMENT

    In charge

    Supervisor

    1co-odinetor 2Co-odinetor 3Co-odinetor 4Co-odinetor

    TABLE 1. TABLE 2. TABLE 3. TABLE 4. TABLE 5.

    1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

    L.M L.M L.M L.M L.M L.M L.M L.M L.M L.M

    1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

    C.M C.M C.M C.M C.M C.M C.M C.M C.M C.M

    1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

    S.M S.M S.M S.M S.M S.M S.M S.M S.M S.M

    L.M:- Layer Man, C.M:- Cutter Man, S.M:- Sticker Man

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    Total number of Manpower in Cutting Department.

    1. In charge- 1

    2. Supervisor-1

    3. Co-odinetor-3 + issue co- odinetor- 1

    4. Layer man-10

    5. Cutter man- 10

    6. Sticker man- 15

    7. Re cut man- 3

    Total44 Man power

    LAYOUT IN THE CUTTING DEPARTMENT

    More than 85%Fabric use by cutting department and less than 15% waist by them.

    Each jean consists of about 14 pieces of denim sewn together. Here you see a bundle of allthe cut pieces necessary to complete a pair.

    15%

    85%

    EFFICIENCY

    15% 85%

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    MARKER MAKING

    Marker; It is a length of paper (same dimension L*B as that of the lays surface) on which

    all pattern pieces of all sizes are drawn. This is spread over the lay and the pattern lines act

    as the guide line for cutting.

    MARKER MAKING

    Marker making is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for aspecified style. Fabric and distribution of sizes.

    (Requires times, skill and concentration)

    MARKER PLANNING

    Marker planning is imported because when the cutting room cuts cloth. It spends around half

    of the company turnover. Therefore any reduction in the amount of cloth used per garment

    will lead to a increased profit.

    AIM

    The aim of marker planning is try a number of pattern placements.selectinig the one which

    gives the shortest marker

    MANUALLY PRODUCED MAKER

    It creating by arranging full pattern pieces on marker paper\or directly on the top ply of

    fabric in a spread. Pattern pieces are traced using a pencil or tailor calk manualMethods of marker making art time consuming and require a great deal of space.

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    SEWING DEPARTMENT

    It is the most important department/ sections of a garment manufacturing industry.sewing

    machine of different types are arranged as a vertical line to assemble the garments. Sequence

    of types of sewing machine arrangement depends on sequence of assembling operation.

    Number of sewing per line varies from 20 nos to 60 nos depending on the style of the

    garment to be produce. Production pr line pr hour also varies from 100 to 150 pieces

    depending on specific circumstance. Numbring of sewing machine arrangement per line may

    be upto 60 depending on design and output quantity of garment.

    MACHINE BED TYPES-

    1. FLAT BED

    2. CYLINDRICAL BED

    3. RAISED BED

    4. FEED OFF THE ARM

    1. FLAT BED: - Machine with flat bed is used where large and open part garment parts

    are required to be stitched. Ex-Scoop pocket on a trouser front.

    2. CYLINDRICAL BED: - Machine with cylinder bed is used where parts are to stitch

    a small curved or awkward in shape.Ex-Buttoning, Bartuck, Trouser Heming.

    3. RAISED BED: -Raised Bed used where an operation is required on a small Specific

    portion of the garment .Ex-Over edge, Button holing, flat lock.

    4. FEED OFF THE ARM: - Feed off the arm is used where a lapped seam has to be

    used in such a way that the garment part forms a tube.Ex- Side seam, Inseam of jeans.

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    TYPES OF SEWING MACHINE:-

    1. Single needle lock stitch

    2. Double needle lock stitch

    3. Over lock

    4. Feed off the Arm

    5. Bar tack

    6. Button hole/Key hole

    Single needle lock stitch: -

    Use-1 bobbin use

    Used-it is used for single stitch.

    Double needle lock stitch: -

    Use- 2 bobbins

    Used-It is used for double stitch.

    Over lock: -

    Use- 2 needle 3 lopper is called 5 threads over lock

    2 needle 1 lopper d seam, in seam o only over lock

    1 Needle 1 lopper do Chain stitch

    Used: - it is used on side and Fly.

    Feed off the Arm: -

    Use- 3 Needle, chain stitch done.

    Used: - Side seam sewing of the Garment.

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    Button Hole: -

    Programmed has to set for fix length of Button Hole. Ex-1/4, 1/2, 3/8 etc.

    Used: - It is used for button holing of any garment.

    Bar Tack: - Used:-Lopper stitch, Pocket, Crotch, Fly etc.

    Embroidery machine:

    Use- 2 lopper threads 2 bobbin

    Used: -It is use for back pocket embroidery stitch.

    POERATION BREAK DOWN

    (TROUSER)

    BUYER: TOP SHOP SEASSION: S/S

    STYLE: 510 DATE: 20-06-2011

    1. Back Pocket Hem Manual/ Coin Pocket Hem Manual

    2. Back Yoke Attach

    3. Back Yoke Run Stitch

    4. Back Yoke Top Stitch

    5. Back Pocket Decorative Stitch-1

    6. Back Pocket Decorative Stitch-2

    7. Back Pocket Mouth Serge

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    8. Automatic Back Pocket Attached

    9. Sew Back Rise

    10.Back Panel Check

    11.Facing Attached

    12.Coin pocket Attached

    13.Pocket Bag Close

    14.Pocket Bag Top Stitch

    15.Scoop Attached

    16.Scoop Attached Top Stitch

    17.Stay Pocket

    18.Zip Attached

    19.Zip Fly Attached

    20.J Stitch

    21.Double Fly Attached

    22.Front panel Attached

    23.Two Right Panel Top Stitch

    24.Front Rise

    25.Label Attached

    26.Check Front Panel

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    27.Inseam Attached

    28.Side Seam Attached

    29.Core Stitch

    30.Bar Tuck

    31.Loop Stitch

    32.Waist Band Marking

    33.Waist band Attached

    34.Waist Band Finished

    35.Band Patch Attached

    36.Loop Marking

    37.Loop Attached

    38.Heming Bottom Hem

    39.Key Hole

    40.End Line Checking Final Garment

    Inspection: -

    Eachand every garment Sewing passes through the inspection table/ point, where the

    garments are thoroughly and carefully checked to defect/find any defect if present in the

    garment. The defects may be for example variation of measurement, sewing defect, fabric

    defects, sport etc.If the defect is possible to overcome, then the garment is sent to the

    respective person for correction .if the defect is not correction able, then the garment is

    separated as wastage.

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    Denim Garments Standard Rules in Dry Processing

    The process plan in special effect area will be done according to shade numbers. Inevery operation, bundles will be processed separately.

    Before one lot number finalized, another lot number never will be processed.

    Before the first washing load is approved, bulk production cannot be continue untilthe approval is got from quality department.

    The distressed jeans that we see around everywhere undergo a wide variety of wet as well as

    dry treatments to get the desired effects. Here I shall try to explain some basic Denim Dry

    Processing techniques. In the creation ofvintage denim jeans, dry processes play a very

    important role and hence important to understand.

    Denim Dry Processing - Basic know how

    Destroying denims is as much an art as it is a technique. Details are added using a fine

    abrasive paper on a scraping tool. And extra whiskering can be added with sand paper.Sometimes a bit of local tint staining is being done into the local areas to emphasize the

    lighter parts. The jeans then go for a washing with pumice stone to blend in the whiskering

    and tinting / over dyeing. Where the folds and wrinkles go is where the art part comes in, its

    often through observation of where wear patterns are typically found. Below is list of

    operations being carried out on denim garment to achieve VINTAGE(used/worn out) look

    Hand Sand / Hand Scraping

    Whiskers

    Chevrons Knee Star / knee whiskers

    Hot Spot

    Tacking

    Grinding

    Damages / Destruction

    PP Spray

    Bleach spots

    Resin application

    Pigments & Local tint application etc..

    MALWA

    http://www.denimstudy.com/denim-garments-standard-rules-in-dry-processing.htmlhttp://www.denimstudy.com/denim-garments-standard-rules-in-dry-processing.htmlhttp://www.denimstudy.com/denim-garments-standard-rules-in-dry-processing.html
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    1.DENIM HAND SAND / SCRAPING

    Hand sand is step which is generally being done in rigid form of garments to get distress

    look. Locations can be front thigh & back seat or it can be overall / global application as per

    Standard. Emery paper is being used to scrape the garments in particular placement & design.Emery paper comes in different number generally start from 40 till 600 and above, higher the

    number finer the emery paper, lower the coarseness of the paper. In garment industry from

    220, 320 & 400 number papers are most popular & widely used.

    Purpose of doing this process is make used worn out look to the garments.

    The most important factor is to select right number of paper according to the fabric strength

    & intensity need. Feathering / merging white sanded part to dark blue area in such way that it

    should look natural & not artificial.

    Scraping can be done on inflated rubber balloons for better effect (horizontal or vertical its up

    to operators convenience), even it can done plain wooden board of garment size & hand

    pressure should be uniform in order to get better results.

    Hand sanding must be started from intense part & feathering out on less intense part

    gradually. One garment must be done by one operator only to have balance intensity on both

    the legs.

    2.WHISKERS/ MOUSTACHES, CHEVRON

    http://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image005.jpghttp://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image004.jpghttp://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image003.jpghttp://images.google.be/imgres?imgurl=http://www.trade361.com/eascms/data/user/20090408161105118.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.trade361.com/goods.php?trade=430&usg=__GMSDfalw0kkEsksigw7xtWnrrU0=&h=412&w=550&sz=38&hl=en&start=686&um=1&tbnid=z-awXu26iTIaMM:&tbnh=100&tbnw=133&prev=/images?q=denim+jeans+pictures&ndsp=18&hl=en&sa=N&start=684&um=1http://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image001.jpghttp://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image005.jpghttp://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image004.jpghttp://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image003.jpghttp://images.google.be/imgres?imgurl=http://www.trade361.com/eascms/data/user/20090408161105118.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.trade361.com/goods.php?trade=430&usg=__GMSDfalw0kkEsksigw7xtWnrrU0=&h=412&w=550&sz=38&hl=en&start=686&um=1&tbnid=z-awXu26iTIaMM:&tbnh=100&tbnw=133&prev=/images?q=denim+jeans+pictures&ndsp=18&hl=en&sa=N&start=684&um=1http://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image001.jpghttp://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image005.jpghttp://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image004.jpghttp://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image003.jpghttp://images.google.be/imgres?imgurl=http://www.trade361.com/eascms/data/user/20090408161105118.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.trade361.com/goods.php?trade=430&usg=__GMSDfalw0kkEsksigw7xtWnrrU0=&h=412&w=550&sz=38&hl=en&start=686&um=1&tbnid=z-awXu26iTIaMM:&tbnh=100&tbnw=133&prev=/images?q=denim+jeans+pictures&ndsp=18&hl=en&sa=N&start=684&um=1http://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image001.jpghttp://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image005.jpghttp://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image004.jpghttp://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image003.jpghttp://images.google.be/imgres?imgurl=http://www.trade361.com/eascms/data/user/20090408161105118.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.trade361.com/goods.php?trade=430&usg=__GMSDfalw0kkEsksigw7xtWnrrU0=&h=412&w=550&sz=38&hl=en&start=686&um=1&tbnid=z-awXu26iTIaMM:&tbnh=100&tbnw=133&prev=/images?q=denim+jeans+pictures&ndsp=18&hl=en&sa=N&start=684&um=1http://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image001.jpghttp://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image005.jpghttp://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image004.jpghttp://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image003.jpghttp://images.google.be/imgres?imgurl=http://www.trade361.com/eascms/data/user/20090408161105118.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.trade361.com/goods.php?trade=430&usg=__GMSDfalw0kkEsksigw7xtWnrrU0=&h=412&w=550&sz=38&hl=en&start=686&um=1&tbnid=z-awXu26iTIaMM:&tbnh=100&tbnw=133&prev=/images?q=denim+jeans+pictures&ndsp=18&hl=en&sa=N&start=684&um=1http://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image001.jpg
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    On Denim, whiskers / Mustaches, Chevrons are nothing but the worn out lines / impression

    generated by natural wearing on hip & thigh area. There are many designs & pattern

    available.

    This is being done manually with help of sharp edge Emery paper rolled on finewood stick or pasted on plastic material. Before starting execution placements &

    pattern must be marked on garments, this will help operator to execute the pattern

    right to match the aesthetics of garment..

    All above operations are carried out in width direction hence its appears intense than hand

    sand with less strokes, because hand sand is carried out in length direction.

    3.TACKING & GRINDING

    Tacking: is a process which is being done by swift tag machine with the help of plastic ornylon tag pins in rigid form of garment to get very heavy contrast ( rigid & washed ) on

    waistband, bottom hems, back pocket & front pocket corners etc.. After completing wash

    cycle, it must be removed from garment before making softening.

    Grinding: is being done on pocket edges & bottom hems edges by running against abrasion

    surface or stone to achieve worn out effect. Many different make of machines & pen grinding

    tools are available in the market which runs with pneumatic system.

    4. DAMAGES/DESTRUCTION

    One of the most popular distressing effects currently , Destruction is an art which makedenim look unique & used. To make destruction pen type of stone tools being used in mid of

    http://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image008.jpghttp://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image007.jpghttp://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image008.jpghttp://www.denimsandjeans.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/clip-image007.jpg
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    wash process to apply on desired area. It can also be achieved by cutting it thru knife the

    warp yarns & keep the weft yarn as is to show white thread. Holes also can be made by

    cutting weft & warp yarns. These are all manual processes & every garment will look unique

    & different than others.

    5. POTASSIUM PERMANGNATE SPRAY/RUB & BLEACH SPRAY

    PP Sprayis being done on denim garments to achieve local abraded area to appear whiter

    than back ground indigo color shade. This can be applied by spray gun or by towel dipped in

    to PP Solution & rubbed on desired area followed by neutralization in wet process. This

    process can be done in rigid after doing hand scrape or in the middle of the wash. Doing after

    enzyme or bleach cycle will give more natural & white effect that doing in rigid. There are

    many additives can be added in order to achieve desired intensity and look.

    The same way bleach solution also can be spray or rubbed on the garments on desired area.

    But this process is very complicated & needs highly skilled operators to execute it followedby immediate neutralization.

    There are many parameters needs to be taken into control for doing PP or Bleach

    spray. Spray gun pressure, width of spray, flow & way of spraying.

    6.PIGMENTS & LOCAL TINT ( STAINING) APPLICATION

    Need to choose right color of pigment or tint with binder or fixer to apply locally on denim

    to get vintage look. This process also needs an artist to execute it nicely to merge the tint withground indigo color & should not look too artificial. Pigments & Local tint also can be

    applied through spray gun or rubbing on desired area of denim garment. After application its

    must be cured in order to have permanent effect on jean.

    As we can see from all the dry denim processes mentioned above, they are mainly manual

    processes. The quality of the worker can make or break the garment. Hence , great care has to

    be given to select the right personnel for these jobs.

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    BASIC DENIM WASHING PRINCIPLES

    Denim washing is aesthetic finish given to denim fabric to enhance the demand

    and to provide strength. Dry denim as opposed to washed denim is a denim fabric that is not

    washed after being dyed during its production.

    Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that with time fabric will fade in a manner

    similar to that which artificially distressed denim attempts to replicate .With dry denim

    however such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears jeans and the activities

    of their daily life. This creates what many fell to be more natural, unique look than predistressed denim.

    The changes occur due to the following actions:1. Mechanical / rubbing / abrasion between garments to garments.

    2. Garments to machine; and

    3. Chemical action.

    Objects of garments washing: To develop softness in garments: Size materials applied during manufacturing

    present in the fabric are removed which enhances soft hand feel. Additional softness may

    be attained by using softener.

    To introduce fading effect:Dyes or pigments are present in the fabric, used duringcoloration, are washed out locally or partially which result fading or worn out effects in

    the garments.

    To create new fashion:Washing Process of garments bring different outlook (faded,color tinted etc) thus creating new fashion for the new generation especially for teenagers .

    To satisfy the consumer :As the contraction or extraction (shrinkage ) occur due towashing , the wearer can use the garments after purchase satisfactory

    Advantages of garments washing:The following advantages are obtained could be gained from the garments

    washing

    Removal of starch or size materials make the fabric soft hands feel. Softness could be increased by the addition of softener just at the last stage of washing.

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    Dirt, spots, impurities, gum etc, if accumulated in the garments during manufacturing

    could be removed.

    During washing shrinkage may takes place, therefore after washing there is no possibility

    to create such problem.

    Washed garments could be worn directly after purchase.

    Faded or worn out effect could introduced to the garments which creates new fashion

    Similar outlook can be obtained by different washing techniques.

    Comparatively lower capital is required to set up a washing plant. Lower land space and least manpower cost are required to run a washing plant.

    Rinse (water) wash: Speaks for itself mostly. Like in the good old days the jeans will bewashed at about 50 degrees Celsius. High risk of color bleeding, so ideal to use forbrightening up your old faded jeans by washing them together. Make certain to wash separatefrom other garments the first few times. Some Jeans brands will even not use sanforized

    fabric, so that you can shrink them to fit in a hot bath. This was (again) very popular back inthe 80's.

    Stone wash: Still the most famous of all washings. The jeans are washed with oval orround pumice stones which should all have roughly the same format. The pumice stones arevery light with a rough surface. Sometimes, when the final quality inspectors at the jeansfactory forget to clean the pockets, you may even find some residue of these stones in thepockets of your new jeans. During the washing process these stones will scrap off a thin layerof the denim does showing some of the white threads from the part of the cloth where theindigo dyeing stuff was not able to penetrate. It also creates and effect called brilliance. You

    may also encounter words like deep stone or super stonewash, which are an indication of howlong the jeans have been stonewashed. Ergo: The longer the wash, the lighter the jeans.

    Enzyme Wash: -It is environmentally friendly wash. It involves the application of organic

    enzymes that eat away at the fabric, i.e. the cellulose. When the desired color is achieved, the

    enzyme can be stopped by changing the alkalinity of the bath or its temperature. Post

    treatment includes final ringing and softening cycle. The effects produced by cellulose

    enzyme are:-

    1. Use of cellulose making the seams, hems, and pockets more noticeable;

    2. Salt paper effect is color contrast effect.

    3. Faded garment washed with acid cellulose enzyme provides less color contrast in

    proportion to garment washed neutral cellulose enzymes.

    Garment load size of the m/c is 35-40 jeans per m/c and it cannot be overloaded.

    Acid Wash: -It is done by tumbling the garments with pumice stones presoaked in a

    solution of sodium hypochlorite or potassium permanganate for localized bleaching resulting

    in a non uniform sharp blue/white contrast. In this wash the color contrast of the denim fabric

    can be enhanced by optical brightening. The advantage of this process is that it saves water as

    addition of water is not required.

    It consists of soaking pumice stones with chlorine and using their abrasive power to bleachjeans into sharp contrasts. Also known as moon, fog, marble, ice and fros.

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    FINISHING DEPATMENT: -

    After passing through the inspection table, each garment is normally ironed pressed to

    Remove unwanted crease and to improve the smoothness so that the garment looks nice

    To the customer, folding of the garment is also done here for poly packing of the garment

    per required dimension

    Stages of finishing department: -

    1. Loop cutting

    2. Wash care label Attach

    3. Mid Checking

    4. Rebid button attach

    5. Form finished

    6. Final checking (inseam, waist Band)

    7. Heat set

    8. Shadding

    9. Over rider

    10. Washing inspection

    11. Duster (Remove thread)

    PACKING

    After to finishing department, garment send to packing department then first of all check the tag

    According to size label divide the garment according to size.

    3 or 4 pieces of garment bundling according to

    Buyer and after that cartoon weight then packed the garment as buyer requirement.

    MALWA

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    DESCRIPTION

    1. Pices of garment

    2. Order No3. Cartoon dimension

    4. Buyer nam

    DESPATCH SECTION :-

    Ready for Inspection & shipping

    Random Inspection

    Approval for shipment

    Repacking open cartoon

    Strapped & stacked

    Custom approval

    Dispatch

    MALWA

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    Width: Width checking is also done 100%. All rolls are quality checked for width measurement. Usuallywidth checking is done during the inspection of the fabric. Commercial standard for width is 63 inches.Weight: Weight of the fabric is done by a standard GSM disc cutter.

    Further a comprehensive report regarding quality check is sent to departments such as marketing andcommercial for the approval of fabric for cutting.

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    H.R POLICY

    1. Quality policy

    2. Enviourment

    3. Health or Safety

    4. HR vision, mission and core values

    5. HR philosophy

    6. HR objective

    MANPOWER PLANING

    1. Manpower planning

    2. Requirement procedure

    3. Employee induction

    4. Employee record

    PERSONAL AND LEVEL RULES

    1. Work Timing

    2. Holidays

    3. Leave rules

    4. Casual level

    5. Sick leave

    6. Earned level

    7. Compensatory level rules

    8. Maternity level

    COMPENSATION BENEFITS

    1. Salary wages break up & disbursement

    2. Medical reimbursement

    3. Leave travel allowance

    4. Car policy for A.G.M above

    5. Communication policy

    MALWA

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    SYSTEM MANUALS

    1. Department manuals

    2. H R Audit

    PERFORMANCE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM

    1. Performance management system

    2. Employee reward

    3. Training, development and learning

    4. Academic growth of employee

    5. Superiors responsibility

    6. Summer training

    7. Fitment of trainees

    INDUSTRY SECURITY AND SAFETY

    1. Security

    2. Health safety

    3. Visitors

    4. Information checks reference

    BUSSINESS CODE CONDUCT

    1. Conflict of interest $ peer pressure

    2. Non abuse of official position

    3. Improvement through professionalism team work

    4. Confidentiality

    5. Whistle blower policy

    6. Sexual harassment policy

    7. Internet usage policy

    8. Prioritizing of task

    9. House keeping

    MALWA

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    ROLES OF MERCHANDISER

    In preparing sample the merchandiser places an optical and pre active role. The

    merchandiser is a person who has to follow all the activities which filled up

    sight from the manufacturing unit merchandiser should understand the

    specification and requirement of the buyer and produce sample by considering

    1. Sampling/Sampling Co-ordination

    2. Costing

    3. Order finalization4. Arranging raw materials

    5. Getting approval from Buyer

    6. Co-ordination manufacturing (detail to production department)&then follow

    ups for correct quality In the time of shipments.

    7. coordinating inspection

    8. Co-ordination Shipment

    9. Communication

    The merchandiser has to consider all the quality parameters

    related to the sample to be developed in case of non conformities in the sample

    developed revised sample may be sending for approval purpose it is duty of

    merchandiser to dispatch the developed sample on the time to the concerned

    buyers.

    In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business andtechnical aspects. Senior merchandisers have responsibilities of product

    development and coordination with buyer, the garment style that meet

    buyers expectations in regard to delivery, quality and price point. Junior

    merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paperwork and follow

    up, detailing with buyers, overseas communication etc.

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    TO

    THE MANAGING DIRECTOR

    MALWA INDUSTRY LTD.

    Sub: - Please allow me to take Sponsors ship from your company for my

    FASHION SHOW.

    Sir,

    Most respectfully I have to say that I ARBIND MODI from NORTHERN

    INDIA INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (Govt. of Punjab) have

    joined this industry. From 08th June to 20 July 2011 for Industry internship I

    have understood and now I am ready to jump in the industry would but before

    joining the industry it is required give my final show in my college but due to

    some financial problem it is difficult to achieve my goal.So I there for request to sir that please grant me this permission for this I will

    be your libel whole life.

    THANKS

    ARBIND MODI

    NIIFT (LDH)

    FD-2009-2012