Active Ingredients · The product portfolio of Personal Care consists of a unique and comprehensive range of organic and silicone-based specialities especially designed as raw materials

Active Ingredients

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Evonik Industries is the creative industrial group from Germany which operates in three business areas: Chemicals, Energy and Real Estate. Evonik is a global leader in specialty chemicals. Our strengths are creativity, specialization, continuous self-renewal, and reliability.

The Consumer Specialties business unit includes the business lines Personal Care, Household Care, Silicone Specialties and Superabsober. Market preference will be given to products based on organomodified silicones, mild surfactants and active ingredients, oxygen compounds as detergent bases as well as superabsorbent polymer for hygiene products.

The business units outstanding core competence is its compre-hensive knowledge of the processes of interfacial chemistry. On this basis, Consumer Specialties supplies its customers with products that are at the forefront of technology, for a variety of applications in the industrial and consumer goods markets.

The product portfolio of Personal Care consists of a unique and comprehensive range of organic and silicone-based specialities especially designed as raw materials for personal care products and active ingredients for the protection of skin and hair.

Anticipating trends and meeting the needs of customers is the first priority of Personal Care. The key to this advanced innovation is an integrated concept involving market and customer expertise, well defined market orientated research and development and formulation expertise. Performance and market driven research within Personal Care has led to a comprehensive range of active ingredients that offer appearance enhancing and age defying results. Strongly supported by linking knowledge among all of the Business Units (networking of expertise, products, technology and services), scientific foundation (first supplier to make use of DNA chips technology), skin expertise and relevant efficacy studies, the portfolio of active ingredients provides formulators with innovative building blocks to fulfill the expectations of today’s and tomorrow’s consumers. Such dedication was acknowledged by Frost & Sullivan who presented to Personal Care the “2004 Product Line Strategy Leadership Award” for offering a comprehensive and unique portfolio of active ingredients to the cosmetic industry.

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The quest for youth and beauty has never been more evident. It has become a societal norm proving that appearance is increasingly valued in much the same way as health. Looking good is considered to be a requirement for a happy and successful life style. This means that consumers are no longer happy with promises. They want value-added products that perform, in particular products with specific beauty and health benefits.

The high demand for advanced performance skin care products has been accelerated by an aging population and the increased awareness of the adverse effect of solar radiation. Initially, the market for these innovative products was composed of female baby boomers wanting to delay the appearance of age related changes in the skin and to avoid skin damage from solar radiation. This group is no longer the only target segment for sophisticated and effective products. The group of middle-age consumers is highly receptive and expanding very fast. The under 30‘s age group is waiting for reliable cosmetic products that will help to clear up blemishes and prophylactic treatments to maintain a youthful appearance. And men are becoming more comfortable buying and using cosmetic products to help them looking younger.

The consumer trend is toward a holistic, whole body approach to combat the effect of age on the skin. They want younger looking skin from head to toe and are extending their demands from facial to body skin care market. In a similar way, body wash has to do more than clean. Consumers want products that will moisturize and condition the skin effectively.

The sun care market is going from strength to strength. Increased awareness of the dangers of exposure to the sun has led to the adoption of higher sun protection. Consumers are more aware than ever of the dangers of photodamage and premature aging and are willing to spend money to protect their skin before, during and after exposure.

Active ingredients are also on the move from skin care products to color cosmetics. They are extending the benefits of moisturization, anti-aging, sun protection and acne control into the decorative sector for additional functions.

The Antiperspirants/Deodorants market continues to add value to what could be seen as otherwise basic products. In addition to controlling perspiration and odor, today‘s AP/DEOs concentrate on long-term efficacy, dermatological benefits and general sense of well-being.

Finally, expectations of hair care products do not only center around softness and gentleness. Today, hair is challenged daily by pollution, brushing, blow drying and chemical treatments. People want their hair to be more resistant, healthier and shiner.

To fulfill consumers‘ expectations, Personal Care provides its customers with a unique range of active ingredients and tailor-made solutions for both skin and hair care. A survey of all the active ingredients is part of this brochure.

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Skin Aging

Skin Moisturization

Sensitive Skin

Spots and Pimples

Skin Color/Tone Modulation

Sun Protection/After Sun Protection

Antiperspirants/Deodorant

Hair Repair/Protection

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Skin Aging

New treatments for aging skin are required to target either facial or body skin. Different agents may be required dependent on how these different skin sites age. Skin aging is a complex process associated with dramatic changes in both skin structure and its chemistry. It is a natural consequence of chronological aging (simply getting older) and is accelerated by external insults, such as UV irradiation which leads to photoaging (premature skin aging). The clinical changes to skin associated with photoaging are age spots (freckles or ephelides, solar lentigines and solar keratoses), skin dryness, wrinkles and a general loss of skin elasticity, soft-ness, smoothness and firmness. Similar changes in chronologically aged skin (non-UV exposed skin) can also occur but skin atrophy (skin thinning) plays a more important role. Reductions in endogenous hormone (estrogen) levels can also contribute to the chronological aging process during menopause. Optically, the skin lacks radiance, luminosity and takes on certain dullness. Lifestyle factors (e.g. habits, diets, smoking), diseases (e.g. diabetes) and the effect of gravity also further exacerbate the changes in appearance associated with aging.

In both chronological and photoaging, the synthesis of dermal collagen slows. In chronological aging lower estrogen levels result in less collagen formation. In photoaging, the effect of slowed collagen production is compounded by the destruction of collagen driven by increased levels of certain proteases such as matrix metalloproteases (MMPs) formed as a result of UV exposure. Equally, elastosis is a hallmark sign of photoaging. These changes can lead to both fine lines and deep wrinkles.

As a result of this dermal destruction and the effects of gravity, sagging of facial skin becomes particularly apparent in the aged. Dry skin occurs more frequently on both types of aged skin where it becomes less hydrated due to reduced levels of stratum corneum natural moisturising factors (NMF) derived from filaggrin and lower levels of barrier lipids (ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids).

The main cause of photoaging is exposure to UV radiation. UV irradiation can directly damage cellular membranes which leads to the formation of reactive oxygen species that initiate the aging process. Subsequently, increased levels of inflammatory cytokines (Interleukin-1α (IL-1α) etc) accentuate the inflammatory state. Interference with specific transcription factors like Activator protein-1 (AP-1) also leads to the changes in collagen synthesis and expression of MMPs. Aged skin cells also have a reduced metabolic efficiency leading to reduced production of essential dermal structural proteins.

The skin can repair some of these changes provided that UV exposure is avoided or reduced. Additionally, topical application of certain skin care technologies can reverse the appearance of “aging” by addressing the decreases in key skin protein and lipid levels and by minimizing levels of certain by-products of UV exposure.

TEGO® Turmerone is the distilled fraction of turmeric oil extracted from the root of Curcuma longa by supercritical carbon dioxide, an environmentally friendly process. TEGO® Turmerone has significant anti-oxidant activity and induces endogenous cellular defence mechanisms against oxidative stress. TEGO® Turmerone is ideal for the improvement of skin radiance, evenness of skin tone and decrease of number and depth of wrinkles. TEGO® Turmerone contains at least 65 % of Turmerones. Figure 1 clearly demonstrates the benefits of TEGO® Turmerone to boost endogeneous cellular anti-oxidative mechanisms.

Skinmimics® is a unique blend of novel long chain phytosphingosine and sphingosine containing Ceramides, vegetal-based cholesterol, fatty acids and newly identified Sphingokines®. Skinmimics® is ideal for mature skin by providing simultaneously protection, regeneration and prevention. Skinmimics® optimizes the total epidermal water management system of the skin with proven in-vivo stimulation of fillagrin and aquaporin-3 on volunteers older than fifty years-old.

HyaCare® 50 is a very low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (50Kda) with higher permeation through the skin leading to the activation of more than 100 genes. Activation was observed for instance on tight junction proteins (i.e. occludin, claudin). HyaCare® 50 rejuvenates the skin by improving elasticity and its viscoelastic ratio and minimizing the appearance of deep wrinkles.

Phytosphingosine SLC is a novel derivative of human skin-identical Phytosphingosine and salicylic acid. It supports epidermal cell differentiation which is a key factor for skin repair and renewal. Phytosphingosine SLC smoothes the appearance and reduces deep wrinkles of chronologically aged and photo-aged skin by restoring the dermal-epidermal junction, inducing the production of procollagen 1 and reducing the undesired degradation of collagen. TEGO® Derm CBS is a ready-to-use solution of Phytosphingosine SLC.

TEGO® Cosmo C 100 is a pure amino acid derivative (creatine) that naturally occurs in the body, playing an important role in the cellular energy metabolism. Because of its function as “cell energizer”, TEGO® Cosmo C 100 is able to enhance the availability of cellular ATP which functions in the synthesis of key proteins such as collagen and elastin and enzymes responsible for cell protection mechanisms and DNA repair. Skin with adequate supplies of these components appears revitalized and firmer.

TEGOSPHERE® VitA is an encapsulated retinol based on the new TEGOSPHERE® technology with innovative release mechanism which responds to the skin‘s natural pH. TEGOSPHERE® highly protects retinol against degradation.

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Figure 1: TEGO® Turmerone increases cellular anti-oxidative systems.

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UV-B irradiated SkinEthics® skin models. Gene expression quantified by RT-PCR.

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Skin Moisturization

Despite decades of product development better “skin moisturization” is still an expressed consumer need. In fact, up to 40 % of consumers are dissatisfied with current products in regard to their efficacy in moisturizing the skin. In addition to supporting key enzyme activity in the skin, water is critical for maintaining skin aesthetics. These aesthetics are what consumers are addressing when they express the need for better moisturization. The stratum corneum (SC) needs to maintain a hydration level of more than 10 % to prevent it from becoming brittle and cracking. With an inadequate moisture content, the skin can appear dull and less radiant: a problem of both young and old. Scaling is a key symptom, with skin whitening also occuring especially around the dermatoglyphics (microtextural lines).

Irritation, inflammation and itching are evident in subjects with more severe conditions. On more heavily pigmented skin dryness becomes even more evident and is termed “ashiness”. Skin tightness on the face after washing is also often perceived. The water balance in the SC is dependent on the intercellular lamellar lipids, fully matured corneocytes and the presence of natural humectants in the “natural moisturizing factor” (NMF). Moreover, it is the total architecture of the SC that influences skin moisturization: the interlocking of adjacent corneocytes is crucial to reducing water loss through the skin. In healthy skin there is an imperceptible shedding of corneocytes from the skin surface which results in a smooth skin surface. In dry skin all of these mechanisms are disturbed and corneocytes are retained on the skin’s surface which leads to visible flaking and skin roughness. Under these conditions, reduced levels of ceramides and the NMF are apparent. Correction of the lipid abnormalities are more complicated in that certain components, including phytosphingosine-containing ceramides, are reduced more than others.Moisturization is achieved via emolliency, occlusivity and humectancy. Whereas emollients only mask the appearance of dry skin, occlusion and humectancy provide real benefits in relieving dry skin conditions by improving moisture retention in skin. The most elegant and sophisticated occlusive agents are those found naturally in skin with ceramides being the most complex. Recent studies have demonstrated that is absolutely vital to use nature-identical ceramides to form the correct lipid structures together with other skin lipids. Further benefits are achieved from the synergistic formulation with humectants to deliver the full effects to skin.

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TEGO® Arjuna is a standardized extract from the heartwood of Terminalia Arjuna tree. TEGO® Arjuna moisturizes the skin, reinforces its barrier function and decreases its scaliness. Skin elasticity is improved. TEGO® Arjuna contains at least 90 % of triterpenes of which a minimum of 65 % is arjunolic acid. Figures 2a and 2b show the results of corneometry and skin scaliness measurements after four weeks treatment with TEGO® Arjuna.

SK-influx is an aqueous blend of skin-identical phytosphingosine containing Ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol consisting of a multi-lamellar system that mimics the structure and function of the natural lipid barrier of the skin. The unique membrane system of SK-influx enhances the bioavailability of its active components. SK-influx strongly reinforces the skin’s natural protective barrier against moisture loss and external challenges. The skin is moisturized and less sensitive to external insults. SK-influx V is a new version of SK-influx with vegetal-derived, semi-synthetic cholesterol. SK-influx V is paraben-free.

Ceramide III is a human skin-identical Ceramide that supports the natural protective layer of the skin and forms an effective barrier against moisture loss and external influences. The skin is moisturized and less sensitive. Ceramide IIIB, similar to Ceramide III in terms of efficiency, is especially suitable for transparent formulations. COSMOFERM® Mix III and COSMOFERM® Mix H are ready-to-use hydrophobic and hydrophilic solutions of Ceramide III and Ceramide IIIB respectively.

HyaCare® is a new and unique skin-identical hyaluronic acid, breakthrough in safety and purity. HyaCare® reinforces skin’s natural short and long-term moisturization and plumps up skin tissue to restore elasticity.

TEGO® Smooth Complex is a new complex with outstanding skin smoothing and moisturization properties based on key ingredients such as low molecular weight scleroglucan, polyglutamic acid and trimethylglycine. TEGO® Smooth Complex provides unique water-binding properties and significantly reduces skin‘s roughness by enhancing the removal of old skin squamae.

TEGO® Natural Betaine is a naturally derived amino acid with conditioning properties. It enhances skin moisturization while improving the mildness of formulations.

Skinmimics® is a unique blend of novel long chain phytosphingosine and sphingosine containing Ceramides, vegetal-based cholesterol, fatty acids and newly identified Sphingokines®. Skinmimics® is ideal for mature skin by providing simultaneously protection, regeneration and prevention. Skinmimics® optimizes the total epidermal water management system of the skin with proven in-vivo stimulation of fillagrin and aquaporin-3 on volunteers older than fifty years-old.

Corneometry after 4 weeks. 0.25 % of TEGO® Arjuna in an O/W emulsion.

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Figure 2a: Increase of skin moisturization with TEGO® Arjuna

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Visioscan camera after 4 weeks. 0.25 % of TEGO® Arjuna in an O/W emulsion.

Figure 2b: Decrease of skin scaliness with TEGO® Arjuna

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Sensitive Skin Consumers perceive adverse sensory and/or visible skin reactions that occur naturally, due to stress, or due to cosmetics and environmental stimuli as ”sensitive skin”. About 40 – 50 % of most populations report that they have or have had a sensitive skin problem. These incidences are observed most frequently in the winter months of the year. Symptoms of sensitive skin can include stinging, burning, itching, redness and dryness as well as ”breakouts” such as spots and pimples. Whole body health, psychology and skin physiology all influence the perception of skin sensitivity. The barrier properties of the skin are a key influencing factor contributing to the presence of, or lack of, skin sensitivity. Once compromised, the skin‘s barrier influences the formation of inflammatory mediators in the lower layers of the skin that set up a cascade of events leading to skin redness, or release of other mediators which in turn cause skin itching. The physical properties of the stratum corneum can thereby influence the deeper layers of the skin. In other ways when the stratum corneum becomes drier, it also becomes stiffer leading to the perception of ”tight” skin especially on the face.

The development of inflammatory reactions is controlled by cytokines, biochemical mediators released from several cell types like epidermal keratinocytes. Interleukin-1α (IL-1α) plays a central role in the inflammatory process and it has been recognized as an important mediator in subjects with skin sensitivity resulting from skin barrier deficiencies. The application of anti-inflammatory ingredients soothes irritated skin by inhibiting the release of substances such as, IL-1α. The stratum corneum is not only a unique barrier but it is a unique biosensor. Improving its structure and thereby its function will minimize the incidence of skin sensitivity. The condition of skin can naturally be improved by strengthening the barrier with ceramides and other lipids or by influencing skin lipid content.

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Phytosphingosine is a lipid naturally occurring in the skin, considered to be part of the skin‘s natural defense system. Skin-identical Phytosphingosine reduces the appearance of skin inflammation, soothes and improves the appearance of red, inflamed and blemished skin. It mitigates the negative effect of irritants and UV exposure, and minimizes the visible effects associated with aging. Figure 3 shows the significant reduction of interleukin 1α caused by topical application of Phytosphingosine.

SK-influx is an aqueous blend of skin-identical Ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol consisting of a multi-lamellar system that mimics the natural structure of the lipid barrier of the skin. SK-influx reinforces the stratum corneum structure and thereby its function to minimize skin sensitivity. SK-influx V is a new version of SK-influx with vegetal-derived, semi-synthetic cholesterol. SK-influx V is paraben-free.

TEGO® Arjuna is a standardized extract from the heartwood of Terminalia Arjuna tree. TEGO® Arjuna moisturizes the skin, reinforces its barrier function and decreases its scaliness. TEGO® Arjuna TEGO® Arjuna highly improves prompt cell recovery after inflammation. TEGO® Arjuna contains at least 90 % of triterpenes of which a minimum of 65 % is arjunolic acid.

GluCare® S is a carboxy methyl yeast-derived beta-glucan, revitalizing the skin‘s own active defense system in conjunction with reduced Langerhans cell damages. Skin is healthier and less sensitive. GluCare® S is also available as a 2 % aqueous solution, Glucare® S 2 %.

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Figure 3: Inhibition of Interleukin 1α by Phytosphingosine (PS)

Ex-vivo skin. Product application before and after UV-irradiation. ELISA measurement after 24h.

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Spots and PimplesTraditionally acne has been associated with the teen years, mainly affecting the skin of the face, back and chest, areas that are rich in sebaceous glands. Teenage males typically suffer from the most severe expression of adolescent acne. Post-adolescent acne mainly affects females premenstrually and periorally. Two forms of the condition are known as ”persistent acne” and ”late-onset acne”. Increasing stress levels and blood circulating androgen levels are associated with the outbreaks. Lesions include whiteheads (closed comedones), blackheads (open comedones), papules and pustules.

Androgens cause an over activity of the sebaceous glands, resulting in the generation of more sebaceous lipids, commonly known as sebum. However, the presence of increased sebum alone is not sufficient to induce the formation of acne. Bacteria, such as Propionibacterium acnes, secrete enzymes that degrade sebum to by-products that induce localised inflammation. Squalene peroxides, the result of UV exposure, are also comedoge nic. These inflammatory mediators induce other skin cells to secrete growth factors that initiate hyperproliferation in the duct of the gland to cause aberrant epidermal differentiation and faulty desquamation leading to the generation of spots. Once the sebaceous duct is completely blocked additional bacterially derived inflammatory products cause overt inflammation and erythema leading to pustules and papules. However, the whole of the skin needs to be treated to prevent microcomedones from forming comedones.

Ingredients with both anti-inflammatory actions and anti-microbial properties will soothe and improve the irritated appearance of blemished skin. Agents to correct the epidermal hyperproliferation and differentiation will effectively clear the condition.

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TEGO® Policosanol is a natural mixture of higher aliphatic alcohols extracted from sugar cane waxes. TEGO® Policosanol is recommended for oily skin. It provides sebum control benefits and inhibits the growth of microorganisms. TEGO® Policosanol contains at least 70 % of very long chain fatty alcohols, with 1-octacosanol (C28) as main component.

Phytosphingosine is a lipid occurring naturally in the skin, considered to be part of the skin’s natural defense system. Skin-identical Phytospingosine calms inflamed skin and minimizes the visible signs of acneic skin. It soothes and improves the appearance of red, inflamed and blemished skin. Figure 4 illustrates the benefits of Phytosphingosine in minimizing the appearance of papules and pustules.

Figure 4: Phytosphingosine benefits on acneic skin

Before application After 60 days

Clinical study (10 volunteers). 60 days of treatment.

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Skin Color/Tone Modulation

Control of melanogenesis has been important in subjects with darkley pigmented skin but is becoming increasingly important across all pigmentary levels of skin. Caucasians with light skin tones generally want to minimize age spots on the hands, while subjects with more highly pigmented skin, want to not only reduce the presence of facial age spots but also have a more even and lighter skin tone overall.

The natural pigment in skin, melanin, is produced by epidermal melanocytes and after being packaged into melanosomes, is transferred into the keratinocytes. Here the melanosomes aggregate over the nucleus of keratinocytes to protect it from UV damage. After photo-oxidation or through the dispersion of melanosomes an even skin colouration develops. The base level of skin pigmentation is a function of genetics which can be intensified by UV exposure. Not only does UV exposure stimulate melanogenesis by increasing the levels and activity of the enzyme tyrosinase, it also induces release of inflammatory cytokines from the keratinocytes which can contribute to the hyperpigmentation process.

Inhibition of tyrosinase, melanosome transfer pathway and inflammation will reduce epidermal pigment and give a more even skin tone. Melanocytes that aggregate and form age spots usually have an increase in their proliferation capacity and agents to reduce their proliferation will also help lighten their colour. Increasing epidermal proliferation and desquamation, but not at the expense of aberrant differentiation, will also help to reduce the epidermal content of melanin to lighten the skin.

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TEGO® Cosmo C 250 is a pure amino acid derivative occurring naturally in the body. TEGO® Cosmo C 250 helps to brighten the skin. Skin color and skin tone are more even. Figure 5 shows that TEGO® Cosmo C 250 turns out to be as effective as kojic acid.

TEGO® Turmerone is the distilled fraction of turmeric oil extracted from the root of Curcuma longa by supercritical carbon dioxide, produced with an environmentally friendly process. TEGO® Turmerone is ideal for the improvement of skin radiance and evenness of skin tone. It has significant anti-oxidant activity and induces endogenous cellular defence mechanisms against oxidative stress. TEGO® Turmerone contains at least 65 % of Turmerones.

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Figure 5: Reduction of Melanin content by TEGO® Cosmo C 250

TEGO® Cosmo C 250 Kojic Dipalmitate (Positive Control)

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Melanoderm® skin model. Quantitative melanin assay (405 nm).

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Sun Protection/After Sun Protection

In many populations, a suntan has become synonymous with a healthy, youthful appearance. In some cases, the tan is achieved via UV exposure, in others it is an artificial tan. In both cases, increased leisure time has made it possible for consumers devote more time to outdoor activities, leading to a potentially increased level of lifetime exposure to UV radiation. The cumulative effects of this UV exposure, whether from the sun or tanning booths, lead to premature skin aging. Sunburn inflammation and tanning are the early visual responses of skin exposed to UV radiation; non-visual responses include epidermal hyperplasia and skin immune suppression. In addition, photosensitivity disorders may affect 10 – 20 % of Caucasians. Light eruption is a problem more commonly found in women than men and is thought to be due to the production of photoallergens. UV radiation is also a key triggering factor for Rosacea.

Different wavelengths of solar radiation cause different problems in skin. UVB is the most cutaneously damaging radiation but is the least abundant. As it only minimally penetrates skin, the effects of UVB wavelengths are largely confined to the epidermis. UVA is up to 1000 times less active than UVB in damaging skin but it occurs at 100 fold higher levels. This is the main cancer – causing range of the UV spectrum to which the skin is exposed. UVA radiation penetrates the skin more deeply and is the major contributor to photoaging. UVC, the most reactive of UV irradiation, does not reach the skin as it is absorbed by the ozone layers of the stratosphere. This understanding highlights the potential danger from UV exposure and the need for sunscreen technology. Organic sunscreens are designed to either absorb or block the penetration of UV rays while inorganic screens such as micronized titanium dioxide and zinc oxide absorb and reflect UV radiation, with the advantage of being mild and non sensitizing.

Even when consumers use sunscreens, they often use too low of an SPF, apply insufficient amounts, or apply the product improperly. Under these circumstances sunscreens alone will not afford the necessary UV protection. Topical antioxidants have been shown to supplementally protect the skin from UV radiation. Reduced skin immune functionality is apparent following UV irradiation as Langerhans cells migrate out of the epidermis under the influence of inflammatory cytokines. Thus, the skin becomes immuno-compromised and the skin’s immune defense system needs to be boosted.

Erythema (skin redness and inflammation) is a common result of excessive sun exposure. In these conditions the epidermal cells are induced to proliferate and, as a consequence, do not differentiate effectively leading to an impaired moisture barrier function. Existing Stratum Corneum lipids, especially ceramides and cholesterol, can also be directly oxidised to further exacerbate the problem. The visible markers for this condition can be treated with after-sun products intended to soothe and improve the stressed appearance of the skin.

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TEGO® Cosmo C 100 is a pure amino acid derivative naturally occurring in the body, capable of enhancing cellular ATP levels. Consequently skin cells are able to boost the protein synthesis of key proteins such as enzymes responsible for DNA repair while sunburn cells induced by UV irradiation are reduced. The skin is revitalized.

GluCare® S is a carboxy methyl yeast-derived beta-glucan, revitalizing the skin’s own active defense system in conjunction with reduced Langerhans cell damages. Skin is healthier and less sensitive. GluCare® S is also available as a 2 % aqueous solution, Glucare® S 2%. Application of GluCare® containing formulation not only protects Langerhans cells from damage of UV radiation but contributes to a repair effect as shown in Figure 6a and Figure 6b.

TEGO® Derm CBS is a solution of the novel derivative of human skin-identical Phytosphingosine and salicylic acid. TEGO® Derm CBS smoothes the appearance and reduces deep wrinkles of photo-aged skin by restoring the dermal-epidermal junction, inducing the production of procollagen 1 and reducing undesired collagen degradation.

TEGO® Sun T 805 is a unique microfine Titanium Dioxide, hydrophobically coated and therefore easily dispersed in polar emollients. It provides high UV B absorption, contributes to high water resistance and acts as a SPF booster together with organic filters. TEGO® Sun T 805 G is produced under controlled GMP conditions and has FDA approval. TEGO® Sun TAQ 40 and TEGO® Sun TDEC 45 are low viscosity, respectively hydrophilic and hydrophobic, dispersions of microfine hydrophobically modified Titanium Dioxide with high filling degree. They are suitable for all types of sun care products and color cosmetics.

TEGO® Sun Z 500 is a pyrogenically microfine uncoated Zinc oxide powder offering broad spectrum UV protection and powerful synergestic effects with organic UV absorbers. TEGO® Sun Z 800 is hydrophobic and based on the coated zinc oxide powder.

Non-treated GluCare® S

Figure 6a: Protection effect of GluCare® S

Non-treated GluCare® S

Figure 6b: Restoration effect of GluCare® S

Ex-vivo skin. Skin irradiation after 3 days of GluCare® S application. Fluorescent visualization of Langerhans cells.

Ex-vivo skin. GluCare® S application after skin irradiation. Fluorescent visualization of Langerhans cells.

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All consumers want to control perspiration and, more importantly, the resultant body odor problems. Both are perceived negatively, especially the latter. As a result, consumers are looking for accelerating improvements in product efficacy. Perspiration is natural process and is part of the body‘s cooling mechanism, occuring over the whole of the body. Malodour problems, however, occur primarily under the arms. Two types of sweat are produced: one being the ”watery” sweat produced by the eccrine gland which is secreted directly on the skins surface, the other, an ”oilier” lipid-containing sweat produced by the apocrine gland, is secreted into the neck of the pilosebaceouis unit. Apoeccrine glands produce sweat that is a hybrid of the two. Due to the unique environment of the underarm, bacteria flourish especially around the openings of the glands. Some of these bacteria, such as Corynebacteria, can transform non-odorous lipids in the apocrine-sebaceous lipid mixture to malodorous substances such as volatile fatty acids and steroids. Thus, bacteria induce the malodour as our bodies provide them with both water and food.

There are three primary options to control the problem. One is to reduce the secretion of the ”watery” sweat by antiperspirancy, typically using a chlorohydrate derivative. The mechanism of action of this route is not fully clear but it is thought that a ”physical occlusive plug” is formed in the outer layers of the skin at the opening of the sweat duct and as a consequence the secretion of eccrine sweat is blocked. The second route is to address body odour emanating from the surface of the skin by deodorants. Deodorants are in general antimicrobial ingredients which reduce the growth of, or metabolism of, resident skin microflora. Fragrances obviously mask the odor but some of them also act as biotransformation inhibitors reducing bacterial metabolism of sweat components. Finally, odor absorbents can reduce body‘s malodor by physically binding the bacterially derived volatile malodorants. For complete malodor control all four technologies are needed.

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TEGO® Cosmo P 813 is a mild vegetable based and biodegradable cosmetic co-emulsifier developed for use in deodorant formulations. TEGO® Cosmo P 813 is a unique “intelligent” deodorant with activity boost on demand. TEGO® Cosmo P 813 provides immediate and extended benefits and 24 hours reserve efficacy. Figure 7 demonstrates the outstanding properties of TEGO® Cosmo P 813 containing spray versus triclosan. TEGODEO® LYS is a highly effective blend that combines the odor absorbing capabilities of the zinc salt of ricinoleic acid with the known restorative benefits of the essential amino acid lysine. It stabilizes skin‘s own pH value and is especially suitable for clear deodorant formulations with or without alcohol.

Zinc ricinoleate is also available as TEGODEO® CW 90 and TEGODEO® HY 77, especially suitable for clear deodorant formulations with alcohol and TEGODEO® PY 88 suitable for emulsion type deodorants.

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Figure 7: Outstanding efficacy of TEGO® Cosmo P 813 in odor reduction

Untreated Ethanolic spray with 0.3 % Triclosan Ethanolic spray with 0.3 % TEGO® Cosmo P 813

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Hair Repair/ProtectionHair is subjected to a number of natural factors and repeated treatments that cause changes in its structure. Some changes are due to environmental effects (sunlight, athmospheric pollution, wind, seawater and pool water) and lead to roughened hair surface and deterioration of the mechanical resistance of hair. Shampooing, coupled with rubbing, towel drying, blow-drying, brushing and combing all contribute to cuticle abrasion or erosion leading to disruption of the smooth surface, increased inter-fiber friction, reduced gloss and a rough, dry feeling to the hair. Hair grooming further contributes to hair damage as the result of tension on the layers of cuticle cells from curling and straightening, leading to hair breakage. A major contributor to hair trauma is chemical treatments (coloring, perming, bleaching) not only because of mechanical damages but also because of the high alkalinity and reactive nature of chemical involved.

As the physicochemical properties of the hair are altered, the structures of the hair fibers are affected and, as a consequence, the hair becomes more fragile. Scalp skin condition might also be affected negatively. The appearance of the hair can be improved by the application of active ingredients which repair and/or protect the hair fiber. Some ingredients will also contribute to better scalp skin condition.

21

TEGO® Galanga is a natural extract obtained from the roots of Kaempferia galanga. TEGO® Galanga is a natural source of ethyl p-methoxycinnamate with a minimum content of 98 %. TEGO® Galanga provides excellent UV absorption and similar benefits in formulation as OMC. TEGO® Galanga is an ideal ingredient for the protection of hair fibers and hair color fading against UV radiation as shown in figures 8a and 8b.

TEGO® Cosmo C 100 is a pure amino acid derivative naturally occuring in the body. TEGO® Cosmo C 100 improves tensile strength, volume and feel of damaged hair. It protects hair from damage caused by chemical treatments and smoothes the hair cuticle of damaged hair, decreasing the wet combing forces. Its skin’s revitalizing and protective properties will contribute to improved scalp conditions.

COSMOFERM® Mix III and COSMOFERM® Mix H are ready-to-use solutions of hair-identical Ceramide III for oil phases and Ceramide IIIB for water phases, respectively. They repair and protect damaged hair and improve hair mechanical properties (strength, liveliness, combability). They improve cuticle cell cohesion, limit loss of water-soluble peptides and decrease alteration of the hair induced by UV radiation. Ceramide III and Ceramide IIIB are also available as pure powder.

SK-influx, a blend of components that mimics the natural lipid barrier of the skin, reinforces the scalp‘s natural protective barrier. SK-influx will improve the appearance of irritated scalp. SK-influx V is a new version of SK-influx with vegetal-derived, semi-synthetic cholesterol. SK-influx V is paraben-free.

TEGO® Natural Betaine is a naturally derived amino acid with conditioning properties. It improves the mildness of formulations and effectively reduces the irritant properties of surfactants.

Tensile strength measurement. Evaluation on single hair fibers, application of a leave-in ethanolic solution.

40

35

30

25

20

15

10

5

0

Vehicle 0.5 % Galanga 2.0 % Galanga

Protection of Hair Fiber [%]

Figure 8a: Protection of hair fibers against UV radiation

Color measurement. Evaluation on single hair fibers, application of a leave-in ethanolic solution.

Figure 8b: Color protection of hair fibers with TEGO® Galanga against UV radiation

0.00 0.50 1.00 1.50 2.00 2.50 3.00

1.0 % OMC

0.5 % OMC

1.0 % Galanga

0.5 % Galanga

Control

Delta E

Skin Care

Trade Name INCI Name Characteristics Especially suitable for

• Human skin-identical Ceramide. High purity. Active at low concentrations. • Supports the renewal of the natural protective layer of the skin and forms an effective barrier against moisture loss and external influences. The skin is Ceramide III Ceramide 3 moisturized and less sensitive. Powder 0.05 – 1.0 % • • • • • Human skin-identical Ceramide. High purity. Active at low concentrations. • Better oil solubility than Ceramide III. Suitable for transparent formulations. • Supports the renewal of the natural protective layer of the skin and forms an effective barrier against moisture loss and external influences. The skin is Ceramide IIIB Ceramide 3 moisturized and less susceptible to insult. Powder 0.05 – 1.0 % • • • • • Human skin-identical Ceramide with an AHA like structure. High purity. Active at low concentrations. • Supports the renewal of the natural protective layer of the skin and forms an effective barrier against moisture loss and external influences. In addition, it normalizes the skin’s natural desquamation process through exfoliation, Ceramide VI Ceramide 6 II rejuvenating the appearance of dull, rough and tired skin. Powder 0.05 – 1.0 % • • • • Ready-to-use solution of skin-identical Ceramide III for oil phases. Isocetyl Alcohol; • Supports the renewal of the natural protective layer of the skin and forms an Ceramide 3; effective barrier against moisture loss and external influences. The skin is COSMOFERM® Mix III Cetyl Alcohol moisturized and less sensitive. Paste 0.5 – 5.0 % • • • • • Ready-to-use solution of skin-identical Ceramide IIIB for aqueous phases. • Suitable for transparent formulations. • Supports the renewal of the natural protective layer of the skin and forms an Lauryl Glucoside; effective barrier against moisture loss and external influences. The skin is COSMOFERM® Mix H Ceramide 3 moisturized and less sensitive. Foamy paste 0.5 – 5.0 % • • • •

• Carboxy methyl yeast-derived beta-glucans. Highly pure and active. • Water soluble. • Works with the skin’s own active defense system of Langerhans cells. Sodium The skin is healthier and less sensitive. Carboxymethyl • GluCare® S 2 % is a ready to-use solution of carboxy methyl yeast-derived Powder/ 0.05 – 0.4 % GluCare® S/GluCare® S 2 % Betaglucan beta-glucans for aqueous phases. Viscous liquid 2.5 – 10 % • • •

22


• Human skin-identical Ceramide. High purity. Active at low concentrations. • Supports the renewal of the natural protective layer of the skin and forms an effective barrier against moisture loss and external influences. The skin is Ceramide III Ceramide 3 moisturized and less sensitive. Powder 0.05 – 1.0 % • • • • • Human skin-identical Ceramide. High purity. Active at low concentrations. • Better oil solubility than Ceramide III. Suitable for transparent formulations. • Supports the renewal of the natural protective layer of the skin and forms an effective barrier against moisture loss and external influences. The skin is Ceramide IIIB Ceramide 3 moisturized and less susceptible to insult. Powder 0.05 – 1.0 % • • • • • Human skin-identical Ceramide with an AHA like structure. High purity. Active at low concentrations. • Supports the renewal of the natural protective layer of the skin and forms an effective barrier against moisture loss and external influences. In addition, it normalizes the skin’s natural desquamation process through exfoliation, Ceramide VI Ceramide 6 II rejuvenating the appearance of dull, rough and tired skin. Powder 0.05 – 1.0 % • • • • Ready-to-use solution of skin-identical Ceramide III for oil phases. Isocetyl Alcohol; • Supports the renewal of the natural protective layer of the skin and forms an Ceramide 3; effective barrier against moisture loss and external influences. The skin is COSMOFERM® Mix III Cetyl Alcohol moisturized and less sensitive. Paste 0.5 – 5.0 % • • • • • Ready-to-use solution of skin-identical Ceramide IIIB for aqueous phases. • Suitable for transparent formulations. • Supports the renewal of the natural protective layer of the skin and forms an Lauryl Glucoside; effective barrier against moisture loss and external influences. The skin is COSMOFERM® Mix H Ceramide 3 moisturized and less sensitive. Foamy paste 0.5 – 5.0 % • • • •

• Carboxy methyl yeast-derived beta-glucans. Highly pure and active. • Water soluble. • Works with the skin’s own active defense system of Langerhans cells. Sodium The skin is healthier and less sensitive. Carboxymethyl • GluCare® S 2 % is a ready to-use solution of carboxy methyl yeast-derived Powder/ 0.05 – 0.4 % GluCare® S/GluCare® S 2 % Betaglucan beta-glucans for aqueous phases. Viscous liquid 2.5 – 10 % • • •

Form

Usage/

Concentra

tion

Skin Aging

Skin Moisturiz

ation

Sensitive Skin

Spots and Pim

ples

Skin Color/

Tone M

odulation

Sun Protectio

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un

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Skin Care


• Human skin-identical hyaluronic acid. High purity. Active at low concentrations. Sodium • Reinforces skin’s natural short and long-term moisturization and plumps HyaCare® Hyaluronate up skin tissue to restore elasticity and minimize the appearance of wrinkles. Powder 0.01 – 0.2 % • • • •

• Very low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (50Kda) with higher permeation Hydrolyzed through the skin leading to the activation of more than 100 genes. Hyaluronic • Rejuvenates the skin by improving elasticity and its viscoelastic ratio and HyaCare® 50 Acid minimizes the appearance of deep wrinkles. Powder 0.01 – 0.2 % • • •

Sodium Lactate; Sodium PCA; Glycine; Fructose; Urea; Niacinamide; Inositol; Sodium Benzoate; • Blend of humectants in aqueous solution ideal substitute for the Natural LACTIL® Lactic Acid Moisturizing Factors (NMF) of the skin. Liquid 1.0 – 3.0 % • • • Lipid occurring naturally in the skin, considered to be part of the skin’s natural defense system. High purity. Active at low concentrations. • Soothes and improves the appearance of red, inflamed and blemished skin and inhibits the growth of microorganisms. • Mitigates the negative effect or irritants and UV exposure, and minimizes the Phytosphingosine Phytosphingosine visible effects associated with aging. Powder 0.05 – 0.2 % • • • • • • Novel derivative of human skin-identical Phytosphingosine and salicylic acid. High purity. Active at low concentration. • Smoothes the appearance and reduces deep wrinkles of chronologically aged and Salicyloyl photo aged skin by restoring the dermal-epidermal junction and inducing the Phytosphingosine SLC Phytosphingosine production of procollagen 1 in the papillary dermis. Powder 0.05 – 0.2 % • • • •

24


• Human skin-identical hyaluronic acid. High purity. Active at low concentrations. Sodium • Reinforces skin’s natural short and long-term moisturization and plumps HyaCare® Hyaluronate up skin tissue to restore elasticity and minimize the appearance of wrinkles. Powder 0.01 – 0.2 % • • • •

• Very low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (50Kda) with higher permeation Hydrolyzed through the skin leading to the activation of more than 100 genes. Hyaluronic • Rejuvenates the skin by improving elasticity and its viscoelastic ratio and HyaCare® 50 Acid minimizes the appearance of deep wrinkles. Powder 0.01 – 0.2 % • • •

Sodium Lactate; Sodium PCA; Glycine; Fructose; Urea; Niacinamide; Inositol; Sodium Benzoate; • Blend of humectants in aqueous solution ideal substitute for the Natural LACTIL® Lactic Acid Moisturizing Factors (NMF) of the skin. Liquid 1.0 – 3.0 % • • • Lipid occurring naturally in the skin, considered to be part of the skin’s natural defense system. High purity. Active at low concentrations. • Soothes and improves the appearance of red, inflamed and blemished skin and inhibits the growth of microorganisms. • Mitigates the negative effect or irritants and UV exposure, and minimizes the Phytosphingosine Phytosphingosine visible effects associated with aging. Powder 0.05 – 0.2 % • • • • • • Novel derivative of human skin-identical Phytosphingosine and salicylic acid. High purity. Active at low concentration. • Smoothes the appearance and reduces deep wrinkles of chronologically aged and Salicyloyl photo aged skin by restoring the dermal-epidermal junction and inducing the Phytosphingosine SLC Phytosphingosine production of procollagen 1 in the papillary dermis. Powder 0.05 – 0.2 % • • • •

25

Form

Usage/

Concentra

tion

Skin Aging

Skin Moisturiz

ation

Sensitive Skin

Spots and Pim

ples

Skin Color/

Tone M

odulation

Sun Protectio

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A

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Skin Care


Ceramide 3; Ceramide 6 II; Ceramide 1; Phytosphingosine; • Blend of components that mimics the natural lipid barrier of the skin. Cholesterol; • Water soluble. Cold processing possible. Sodium Lauroyl • Works with the skin’s natural protective barrier to protect against moisture loss Lactylate; and external challenges. The skin is moisturized and less sensitive. Carbomer; • SK-influx V is a new version of SK-influx with vegetal-derived, semi-synthetic SK-influx/SK-influx V Xanthan Gum cholesteroland paraben-free. Viscous liquid 1.5 – 5 % • • • • Ceteareth-25; Glycerin; Cetyl Alcohol; Cholesterol; Behenic Acid; Ceramide EOP; • Unique blend of new long chain Ceramides and newly identified Sphingokines®. Ceramide EOS; • Ideal for mature skin by providing protection, regeneration and prevention. Ceramide NP; • Protection by correction of membrane defects of the stratum corneum lipid Ceramide NS; barrier, regeneration by stimulation of the epidermal renewal and prevention Ceramide AP; by supplementation of skin’s own precursor substances to activate the skin’s Caprooyl Phyto- own lipid synthesis. sphingosine; Capro- • Optimizes the total epidermal water management system with proven in-vivo Skinmimics® oyl Sphingosine stimulation of fillagrin and aquaporin-3 on volunteers older than fifty years-old. Liquid 2 – 5 % • • •

26


Ceramide 3; Ceramide 6 II; Ceramide 1; Phytosphingosine; • Blend of components that mimics the natural lipid barrier of the skin. Cholesterol; • Water soluble. Cold processing possible. Sodium Lauroyl • Works with the skin’s natural protective barrier to protect against moisture loss Lactylate; and external challenges. The skin is moisturized and less sensitive. Carbomer; • SK-influx V is a new version of SK-influx with vegetal-derived, semi-synthetic SK-influx/SK-influx V Xanthan Gum cholesteroland paraben-free. Viscous liquid 1.5 – 5 % • • • • Ceteareth-25; Glycerin; Cetyl Alcohol; Cholesterol; Behenic Acid; Ceramide EOP; • Unique blend of new long chain Ceramides and newly identified Sphingokines®. Ceramide EOS; • Ideal for mature skin by providing protection, regeneration and prevention. Ceramide NP; • Protection by correction of membrane defects of the stratum corneum lipid Ceramide NS; barrier, regeneration by stimulation of the epidermal renewal and prevention Ceramide AP; by supplementation of skin’s own precursor substances to activate the skin’s Caprooyl Phyto- own lipid synthesis. sphingosine; Capro- • Optimizes the total epidermal water management system with proven in-vivo Skinmimics® oyl Sphingosine stimulation of fillagrin and aquaporin-3 on volunteers older than fifty years-old. Liquid 2 – 5 % • • •

Form

Usage/

Concentra

tion

Skin Aging

Skin Moisturiz

ation

Sensitive Skin

Spots and Pim

ples

Skin Color/

Tone M

odulation

Sun Protectio

n/

Afte

r Sun

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27

Skin Care


• Standardized extract from the heartwood of Terminalia Arjuna tree. • Moisturizes the skin, reinforces its barrier function and decreases decreases its scaliness. Skin elasticity is improved. Terminalia Arjuna • Contains at least 90 % of triterpenes of which a minimum of 65 % TEGO® Arjuna Bark Extract is arjunolic acid. Powder 0.1 – 0.5 % • • • • • Pure amino acid derivative naturally occurring in the body. High purity. • Plays an important role in the cellular energy metabolism. Increases the skin’s cellular energy reserve. Supports the protection of the skin against damage. TEGO® Cosmo C 100 Creatine The skin appearance is revitalized. Powder 0.5 – 1.4 % • • • • 1-Methyl- • Pure amino acid derivative occurring naturally in the body. TEGO® Cosmo C 250 hydantoine-2-imide • Helps to brighten the skin. Skin color and skin tone is more even. Powder 0.1 – 1.5 % •

• Naturally derived amino acid with conditioning properties. • Improves the mildness of formulations and reduces effectively the irritant TEGO® Natural Betaine Betaine properties of surfactants. Increases skin‘s moisture retention. Powder 2 – 10 % • •

• Natural mixture of higher aliphatic alcohols extracted from sugar cane waxes. • Recommended for oily skin and provides sebum control benefits and inhibits Saccharum the growth of microorganisms. officinarum (Sugar • Contains at least 70 % of very long chain fatty alcohols, with 1-octacosanol TEGO® Policosanol Cane) Extract (C28) as main component. Powder 0.5 – 2.0 % • • Distilled fraction of turmeric oil extracted from the root of Curcuma longa by supercritical carbon dioxide, an environmentally friendly process. • Is ideal for the improvement of skin radiance and evenness of skin tone. Curcuma Longa • Significant anti-oxidant activity and induction of endogenous cellular (turmeric) root defence mechanisms against oxidative stress. TEGO® Turmerone extract • Contains at least 65 % of Turmerones. Liquid 0.1 – 1 % • • • Acrylates/ Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer; Aluminum • Encapsulated Retinol based on the new TEGOSPHERE® technology with Tristearate; Retinol; innovative release mechanism which responds to the skin‘s natural pH. TEGOSPHERE® VitA Polysorbate 20 • Highly protects retinol against degradation Powder 0.5 – 2.0 % • • Betaine; Urea; Potassium Lactate; • New complex with outstanding skin smoothing and protecting properties. Polyglutamic Acid; • Significantly reduces skin‘s roughness by enhancing the removal of Hydrolyzed old skin squamae. TEGO® Smooth Complex Sclerotium Gum • Provides unique water-binding properties. Viscous liquid 1.0 – 10 % • • • •

28


• Standardized extract from the heartwood of Terminalia Arjuna tree. • Moisturizes the skin, reinforces its barrier function and decreases decreases its scaliness. Skin elasticity is improved. Terminalia Arjuna • Contains at least 90 % of triterpenes of which a minimum of 65 % TEGO® Arjuna Bark Extract is arjunolic acid. Powder 0.1 – 0.5 % • • • • • Pure amino acid derivative naturally occurring in the body. High purity. • Plays an important role in the cellular energy metabolism. Increases the skin’s cellular energy reserve. Supports the protection of the skin against damage. TEGO® Cosmo C 100 Creatine The skin appearance is revitalized. Powder 0.5 – 1.4 % • • • • 1-Methyl- • Pure amino acid derivative occurring naturally in the body. TEGO® Cosmo C 250 hydantoine-2-imide • Helps to brighten the skin. Skin color and skin tone is more even. Powder 0.1 – 1.5 % •

• Naturally derived amino acid with conditioning properties. • Improves the mildness of formulations and reduces effectively the irritant TEGO® Natural Betaine Betaine properties of surfactants. Increases skin‘s moisture retention. Powder 2 – 10 % • •

• Natural mixture of higher aliphatic alcohols extracted from sugar cane waxes. • Recommended for oily skin and provides sebum control benefits and inhibits Saccharum the growth of microorganisms. officinarum (Sugar • Contains at least 70 % of very long chain fatty alcohols, with 1-octacosanol TEGO® Policosanol Cane) Extract (C28) as main component. Powder 0.5 – 2.0 % • • Distilled fraction of turmeric oil extracted from the root of Curcuma longa by supercritical carbon dioxide, an environmentally friendly process. • Is ideal for the improvement of skin radiance and evenness of skin tone. Curcuma Longa • Significant anti-oxidant activity and induction of endogenous cellular (turmeric) root defence mechanisms against oxidative stress. TEGO® Turmerone extract • Contains at least 65 % of Turmerones. Liquid 0.1 – 1 % • • • Acrylates/ Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer; Aluminum • Encapsulated Retinol based on the new TEGOSPHERE® technology with Tristearate; Retinol; innovative release mechanism which responds to the skin‘s natural pH. TEGOSPHERE® VitA Polysorbate 20 • Highly protects retinol against degradation Powder 0.5 – 2.0 % • • Betaine; Urea; Potassium Lactate; • New complex with outstanding skin smoothing and protecting properties. Polyglutamic Acid; • Significantly reduces skin‘s roughness by enhancing the removal of Hydrolyzed old skin squamae. TEGO® Smooth Complex Sclerotium Gum • Provides unique water-binding properties. Viscous liquid 1.0 – 10 % • • • •

Form

Usage/

Concentra

tion

Skin Aging

Skin Moist

urizatio

n

Sensitive Skin

Spots and P

imples

Skin Color/

Tone M

odulation

Sun Pro

tectio

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Afte

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ction

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Sun Protection

Trade Name INCI Name Characteristics Form Micropigment Content

• Hydrophobically coated microfine Titanium Dioxide. • Easily dispersible in polar emollients. Provides high UV-B absorption, contributes to excellent water resistance, contains no aluminium and acts as an SPF-booster together with organic UV filters. Titanium Dioxide; • A special grade of this product manufactured according to US GMP TEGO® Sun T 805 Trimethoxycaprylylsilane guidelines is available on request. Powder > 95 % • Low viscous dispersion of micro fine hydrophobically modified Titanium Dioxide; Glycerin; Titanium Dioxide with high filling degree. Preservative free. Vinyl Buteth-25/Sodium • Suitable for all types of sun care products and color cosmetics. Maleate Copolymer; Universal formulation possibilities for W/O and O/W emulsions TEGO® Sun TAQ 40 Isolaureth-4 Phosphate with a broad formulation range from pH 4 to 8. Liquid white dispersion ~ 40 % • High solid dispersion of micro fine hydrophobically modified Titanium Dioxide in TEGOSOFT® DEC. Titanium Dioxide; • Provides a high SPF response and a one star rating UV A protection Diethylhexyl Carbonate; due to the optimized particle size. Polyglyceryl-6 • Compatible with Avobenzone (BMDM) and suitable for all kinds of TEGO® Sun TDEC 45 Polyhydroxystearate sun care emulsions. Liquid dispersion ~ 45 %

• Micro fine uncoated Zinc Oxide for elegant and mild cosmetic products with broad spectrum UV absorption. TEGO® Sun Z 500 Zinc Oxide • Shows no whitening and is transparent on skin after rub-in. Fine powder ~ 100 %

• Unique micro fine hydrophobically coated Zinc Oxide with broad spectrum UV absorption. • Based on the uncoated TEGO® Sun Z 500, offers additional benefits Zinc Oxide; Trimethoxy- to the formulator, due to its strongly hydrophobic coating. TEGO® Sun Z 800 caprylylsilane • Shows no whitening and is transparent on skin after rub-in. Fine powder ~ 100 %

Antiperspirants/DeodorantsTrade Name INCI Name Characteristics Form

• Mild vegetable based cosmetic co-emulsifier developed for use in deodorant formulations. • Unique deodorant with activity boost on demand. • Provides immediate and extended benefits and 24 hours reserve TEGO® Cosmo P 813 Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate efficacy. Liquid of high viscosity

• Highly effective blend that combines the odor absorbing capabilities of the zinc salt of ricinoleic acid with the known restorative benefits of the essential amino acid lysine. Amine free. Zinc Ricinoleate; Lysine; • Especially suitable for clear deodorant formulations with and TEGODEO® LYS Propylene Glycol without alcohol. Liquid Zinc Ricinoleate; Tetra- • Highly effective blend based on the odor absorbing capabilities of hydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine; the zinc salt of ricinoleic acid. TEGODEO® CW 90 Laureth-3; Propylene Glycol • Especially suitable for clear deodorant with alcohol. Liquid

Zinc Ricinoleate; Triethanol- • Highly effective blend based on the odor absorbing capabilities of amine; Dipropylene Glycol; the zinc salt of ricinoleic acid. TEGODEO® HY 77 Lactic Acid • Especially suitable for clear deodorant with a high alcohol content. Liquid • Highly effective deodorant based the odor absorbing capabilities of the zinc salt of ricinoleic acid. Amine-free. TEGODEO® PY 88 Zinc Ricinoleate • Especially suitable for emulsion type of deodorant formulations. Pellets

30

Trade Name INCI Name Characteristics Form Micropigment Content

• Hydrophobically coated microfine Titanium Dioxide. • Easily dispersible in polar emollients. Provides high UV-B absorption, contributes to excellent water resistance, contains no aluminium and acts as an SPF-booster together with organic UV filters. Titanium Dioxide; • A special grade of this product manufactured according to US GMP TEGO® Sun T 805 Trimethoxycaprylylsilane guidelines is available on request. Powder > 95 % • Low viscous dispersion of micro fine hydrophobically modified Titanium Dioxide; Glycerin; Titanium Dioxide with high filling degree. Preservative free. Vinyl Buteth-25/Sodium • Suitable for all types of sun care products and color cosmetics. Maleate Copolymer; Universal formulation possibilities for W/O and O/W emulsions TEGO® Sun TAQ 40 Isolaureth-4 Phosphate with a broad formulation range from pH 4 to 8. Liquid white dispersion ~ 40 % • High solid dispersion of micro fine hydrophobically modified Titanium Dioxide in TEGOSOFT® DEC. Titanium Dioxide; • Provides a high SPF response and a one star rating UV A protection Diethylhexyl Carbonate; due to the optimized particle size. Polyglyceryl-6 • Compatible with Avobenzone (BMDM) and suitable for all kinds of TEGO® Sun TDEC 45 Polyhydroxystearate sun care emulsions. Liquid dispersion ~ 45 %

• Micro fine uncoated Zinc Oxide for elegant and mild cosmetic products with broad spectrum UV absorption. TEGO® Sun Z 500 Zinc Oxide • Shows no whitening and is transparent on skin after rub-in. Fine powder ~ 100 %

• Unique micro fine hydrophobically coated Zinc Oxide with broad spectrum UV absorption. • Based on the uncoated TEGO® Sun Z 500, offers additional benefits Zinc Oxide; Trimethoxy- to the formulator, due to its strongly hydrophobic coating. TEGO® Sun Z 800 caprylylsilane • Shows no whitening and is transparent on skin after rub-in. Fine powder ~ 100 %

Trade Name INCI Name Characteristics Form

• Mild vegetable based cosmetic co-emulsifier developed for use in deodorant formulations. • Unique deodorant with activity boost on demand. • Provides immediate and extended benefits and 24 hours reserve TEGO® Cosmo P 813 Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate efficacy. Liquid of high viscosity

• Highly effective blend that combines the odor absorbing capabilities of the zinc salt of ricinoleic acid with the known restorative benefits of the essential amino acid lysine. Amine free. Zinc Ricinoleate; Lysine; • Especially suitable for clear deodorant formulations with and TEGODEO® LYS Propylene Glycol without alcohol. Liquid Zinc Ricinoleate; Tetra- • Highly effective blend based on the odor absorbing capabilities of hydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine; the zinc salt of ricinoleic acid. TEGODEO® CW 90 Laureth-3; Propylene Glycol • Especially suitable for clear deodorant with alcohol. Liquid

Zinc Ricinoleate; Triethanol- • Highly effective blend based on the odor absorbing capabilities of amine; Dipropylene Glycol; the zinc salt of ricinoleic acid. TEGODEO® HY 77 Lactic Acid • Especially suitable for clear deodorant with a high alcohol content. Liquid • Highly effective deodorant based the odor absorbing capabilities of the zinc salt of ricinoleic acid. Amine-free. TEGODEO® PY 88 Zinc Ricinoleate • Especially suitable for emulsion type of deodorant formulations. Pellets

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Trade Name INCI Name Characteristics Form Usage Concentration

• Human hair-identical Ceramide. High purity. Active at low concentrations. • Repairs and protects damaged hair. Improves hair mechanical properties (strength, liveliness, combability). Improves cuticle cell cohesion, limits loss of water-soluble peptides and decreases alteration of the hair induced by UV radiation. • Especially suitable for hair rinses, leave-in conditioners and Ceramide III Ceramide 3 conditioning shampoos. Powder 0.02 – 0.5 %

• Human hair-identical Ceramide. High purity. Active at low concentrations. • Better oil solubility than Ceramide III. Suitable for transparent formulations. • Repairs and protects damaged hair. Improves hair mechanical properties (strength, liveliness, combability). Improves cuticle cell cohesion, limits loss of water-soluble peptides and decreases alteration of the hair induced by UV radiation. • Especially suitable for hair rinses, leave-in conditioners and Ceramide IIIB Ceramide 3 conditioning shampoos. Powder 0.02 – 0.5 % • Ready-to-use solution of hair-identical Ceramide III for oil phases. • Repairs and protects damaged hair. Improves hair mechanical properties (strength, liveliness, combability). Improves cuticle cell cohesion, limits loss of water-soluble peptides and decreases Isocetyl Alcohol; alteration of the hair induced by UV radiation. Ceramide 3; • Especially suitable for hair rinses, leave-in conditioners and COSMOFERM® Mix III Cetyl Alcohol conditioning shampoos. Paste 0.25 – 5 % • Ready-to-use solution of hair-identical Ceramide IIIB for water phases. • Suitable for transparent formulations. • Repairs and protects damaged hair. Improves hair mechanical properties (strength, liveliness, combability). Improves cuticle cell cohesion, limits loss of water-soluble peptides and decreases alteration of the hair induced by UV radiation. Lauryl Glucoside; • Especially suitable for hair rinses, leave-in conditioners and COSMOFERM® Mix H Ceramide 3 conditioning shampoos. Foamy paste 0.25 – 5 %

• Lipid occurring naturally in the skin, considered to be part of the skin‘s natural defense system. High purity. Active at low concentrations. • Soothes and improves the appearance of red and inflamed scalp. Phytosphingosine Phytosphingosine • Especially suitable for anti-dandruff products and irritated scalp. Powder 0.05 – 0.2 %

32


• Human hair-identical Ceramide. High purity. Active at low concentrations. • Repairs and protects damaged hair. Improves hair mechanical properties (strength, liveliness, combability). Improves cuticle cell cohesion, limits loss of water-soluble peptides and decreases alteration of the hair induced by UV radiation. • Especially suitable for hair rinses, leave-in conditioners and Ceramide III Ceramide 3 conditioning shampoos. Powder 0.02 – 0.5 %

• Human hair-identical Ceramide. High purity. Active at low concentrations. • Better oil solubility than Ceramide III. Suitable for transparent formulations. • Repairs and protects damaged hair. Improves hair mechanical properties (strength, liveliness, combability). Improves cuticle cell cohesion, limits loss of water-soluble peptides and decreases alteration of the hair induced by UV radiation. • Especially suitable for hair rinses, leave-in conditioners and Ceramide IIIB Ceramide 3 conditioning shampoos. Powder 0.02 – 0.5 % • Ready-to-use solution of hair-identical Ceramide III for oil phases. • Repairs and protects damaged hair. Improves hair mechanical properties (strength, liveliness, combability). Improves cuticle cell cohesion, limits loss of water-soluble peptides and decreases Isocetyl Alcohol; alteration of the hair induced by UV radiation. Ceramide 3; • Especially suitable for hair rinses, leave-in conditioners and COSMOFERM® Mix III Cetyl Alcohol conditioning shampoos. Paste 0.25 – 5 % • Ready-to-use solution of hair-identical Ceramide IIIB for water phases. • Suitable for transparent formulations. • Repairs and protects damaged hair. Improves hair mechanical properties (strength, liveliness, combability). Improves cuticle cell cohesion, limits loss of water-soluble peptides and decreases alteration of the hair induced by UV radiation. Lauryl Glucoside; • Especially suitable for hair rinses, leave-in conditioners and COSMOFERM® Mix H Ceramide 3 conditioning shampoos. Foamy paste 0.25 – 5 %

• Lipid occurring naturally in the skin, considered to be part of the skin‘s natural defense system. High purity. Active at low concentrations. • Soothes and improves the appearance of red and inflamed scalp. Phytosphingosine Phytosphingosine • Especially suitable for anti-dandruff products and irritated scalp. Powder 0.05 – 0.2 %

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• Blend of components that mimics the natural lipid barrier of the skin. • Water soluble. Cold processing possible. • Reinforces the scalp’s natural protective barrier against moisture loss Ceramide 3; Ceramide 6 II; and external chalenges. The scalp is moisturized and less suseptable Ceramide 1; Cholesterol; to insult. Phytosphingosine; • Especially suitable for dry and sensitive scalp. Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate; • SK-influx V is a new version of SK-influx with vegetal-derived, SK-influx/SK-influx V Carbomer; Xanthan Gum semi-synthetic cholesteroland paraben-free. Viscous liquid 1.5 – 5 %

• Pure amino acid derivative naturally occurring in the body. High purity. • Water soluble. • Improves tensile strength, volume and feel of damaged hair. Protects hair from damages caused by chemical treatments. Smoothes the hair cuticle of damaged hair decreasing the wet combing forces. Contributes to improved scalp conditions. • Especially suitable for hair rinses, leave-in conditioners, conditioning TEGO® Cosmo C 100 Creatine shampoos and pre- and post-treatment products. Powder 0.5 – 1.4 %

• Natural extract obtained from the roots of Kaempferia galanga. • Natural source of ethyl p-methoxycinnamate with a minimum content of 98 %. • Provides excellent UV absorption and similar benefits in formulation as OMC. Kaempferia Galanga Root • Ideal ingredient for the protection of hair fibres and hair colour TEGO® Galanga Extract fading against UV radiation. Powder 0.5 – 2.0 % • Naturally derived amino acid with conditioning properties. • Easy to dissolve in water. • Improves the mildness of formulations and reduces effectively the irritant properties of surfactants. TEGO® Natural Betaine Betaine • Especially suitable for hair shampoos, hair rinses and body shampoos. Powder 2 – 10 %

Product INCI Ceramide III Ceramide 3Ceramide IIIB Ceramide 3Ceramide VI Ceramide 6II Phytosphingosine PhytosphingosineCOSMOFERM® Mix H Lauryl Glucoside; Ceramide 3COSMOFERM® Mix III Ceramide 3; Isocetyl Alcohol; Cetyl AlcoholTEGODEO® PY 88 Zinc RicinoleateTEGO® Cosmo P 813 Polyglyceryl-3 CaprylateTEGO® Natural Betain BetaineTEGO® SUN Z 500 Zinc OxideTEGO® SUN Z 800 Zinc Oxide; Trimethoxycaprylylsilane

ECOCERT

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• Blend of components that mimics the natural lipid barrier of the skin. • Water soluble. Cold processing possible. • Reinforces the scalp’s natural protective barrier against moisture loss Ceramide 3; Ceramide 6 II; and external chalenges. The scalp is moisturized and less suseptable Ceramide 1; Cholesterol; to insult. Phytosphingosine; • Especially suitable for dry and sensitive scalp. Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate; • SK-influx V is a new version of SK-influx with vegetal-derived, SK-influx/SK-influx V Carbomer; Xanthan Gum semi-synthetic cholesteroland paraben-free. Viscous liquid 1.5 – 5 %

• Pure amino acid derivative naturally occurring in the body. High purity. • Water soluble. • Improves tensile strength, volume and feel of damaged hair. Protects hair from damages caused by chemical treatments. Smoothes the hair cuticle of damaged hair decreasing the wet combing forces. Contributes to improved scalp conditions. • Especially suitable for hair rinses, leave-in conditioners, conditioning TEGO® Cosmo C 100 Creatine shampoos and pre- and post-treatment products. Powder 0.5 – 1.4 %

• Natural extract obtained from the roots of Kaempferia galanga. • Natural source of ethyl p-methoxycinnamate with a minimum content of 98 %. • Provides excellent UV absorption and similar benefits in formulation as OMC. Kaempferia Galanga Root • Ideal ingredient for the protection of hair fibres and hair colour TEGO® Galanga Extract fading against UV radiation. Powder 0.5 – 2.0 % • Naturally derived amino acid with conditioning properties. • Easy to dissolve in water. • Improves the mildness of formulations and reduces effectively the irritant properties of surfactants. TEGO® Natural Betaine Betaine • Especially suitable for hair shampoos, hair rinses and body shampoos. Powder 2 – 10 %

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03/2008 Inv.-Nr.: 27-08

Evonik Industries AG Rellinghauser Strasse 1–11 45128 EssenGermanyphone +49 201 177-01 fax +49 201 177-3475 www.evonik.com

Your Contact

Headoffice Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH Goldschmidtstrasse 100 45127 Essen Germany P.O. Box 45116 Essen phone +49 201 173-2854 fax +49 201 173-1828 [email protected] www.evonik.com/personal-care

Europe France Paris phone +33 6 864 917 91

Spain Granollers phone +34 938 642 178 fax +34 938 642 161

The BrasilAmericas São Paulo phone +55 11 314 641 00 fax +55 11 314 641 31

Asia China Shanghai phone +86 21 611 910 00 fax +86 21 611 912 64

Italy Pandino (Cr) phone +39 037 3975 221 fax +39 037 3975 260

Canada Oakville phone +1 905 336 34 23 fax +1 905 633 75 53

Indonesia Bekasi Timur phone +62 21 882 83 22 fax +62 21 882 83 21

Great Britain Milton Keynes phone +44 1908 582 250 fax +44 1908 582 254

Mexico Mexico City phone +52 555 483 10 00 fax +52 555 673 66 49

Japan Tokyo phone +81 3 532 387 90 fax +81 3 532 387 89

Scandinavia Rungsted, Denmark phone +45 449 918 00 fax +45 449 901 80

USA Hopewell phone +1 804 541 86 58 fax +1 804 541 86 89

Korea Seoul phone +82 2 207 123 00 fax +82 2 785 52 47

For more detailed information or to obtain a brochure which addresses a specific area of interest, please contact the Evonik Goldschmidt Head Office in Essen or contact your local representative.

This information and all further technical advice are based on Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH‘s present knowledge and experience. However, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH assumes no liability for providing such information and advice in-cluding the extent to which such information and advice may relate to existing third party intellectual property rights, especially patent rights. In particular, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH disclaims ALL CONDITIONS AND WARRANTIES, WHETHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR MERCHANTABILITY. EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT GMBH SHALL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR CON-SEQUENTIAL, INDIRECT OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES (INCLUDING LOSS OF PROFITS) OF ANY KIND. Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH reserves the right to make any changes according to technological progress or further develop-ments. It is the customer’s responsibility and obligation to carefully inspect and test any incoming goods. Performance of the product(s) described herein should be verified by testing and carried out only by qualified experts. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to carry out and arrange for any such testing. Reference to trade names used by other companies is neither a recommendation, nor an endorsement of any product and does not imply that similar products could not be used. (Status: February, 2008)

Especially concerning Active IngredientsThis product information is not intended to provide legal or regulatory advice about product uses or claims in any jurisdiction and should not be relied upon for such guidance (especially in the United States, Canada, and Mexico). Since global regula-tory requirements differ, parties accessing this information are solely responsible for determining whether the products and/or claims comply with applicable local laws and regulations, including but not limited to import and export regulations. Please contact your local Evonik representative for more product information. Evonik assumes no liability for any use of our products that is not in compliance with the requirements of the country of the user.

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Active Ingredients · The product portfolio of Personal Care consists of a unique and comprehensive range of organic and silicone-based specialities especially designed as raw materials