Adding Artisan Bread to your BakeryBy Michael Eggebrecht

Artisan Baking Resources, Inc &

The Bread Baker’s Guild of America

James Rath - Tom Cat Bakery, On what is artisan bread:

Making a craft product from quality ingredients without the use of additives, dough conditioners and shelf life extenders. Using pure unadulterated ingredients. Practicing principle methods, handling the dough correctly, process… decision making involved during the process at mixing, fermentation, and after proofing. If you take those away then I can’t call it artisan. Doesn’t have to be made by hand.

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Adding artisan Bread to your Bakery

What we will cover

• Artisan Bread and Commercial Bread

• Bakery Tour

• Fundamentals of Producing Artisan Bread

• Equipment for the artisan baker

• Layout and Design

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3

Artisan Baking

Crust Crumb

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Artisan Bread Characteristics

Commercial Bread Characteristics

Commercial Italian Bread & Baguette

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Why Add Artisan Bread To your bakery?

• Organic, Non-GMO, and all natural

Ingredients

• Artisan bread hits on several trends at

once:

• Fewer Ingredients

• Clean label

• Unique flavors

• Whole Grain

• Better for you

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Micro Bakery – Hand shaping

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Instore Bakery

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German Bakery– Medium size wholesale

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An American artisan bakery– Medium

size wholesale

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A Growing Wholesale Bakery

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Hardtner Bakery - Germany

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Small Industrial Bakery

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Baker Hahn

Luxembourg

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Bakery Hahn, Luxembourg

Ruetz Bakery, Austria – Small

Industrial

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Coop Bakery – Switzerland, Large

Industrial Artisan Bakery

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What Type of Bakery do you have?

• Retail

• Wholesale

• Retail and Wholesale

• Cottage Bakery / Micro Bakery

• In-store Bakery

• Industrial

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Fundamentals of Producing

Artisan Bread

Ingredients

Baker’s Math and Prefermented Flour

Preferment Types

Bell Curve of Baking

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Flour Types

• Unbleached white flour

• Protein 10.5% - 12.5%

• Whole Wheat Flour

• Fine and Coarse Grind

• Rye

• Light, Medium, Dark, Meal and Pumpernickel

• Various other grains

Unbleached white Flour

• Protein

• Indicates the amount of

gluten available in flour

• Ash

• Measures the amount of

mineral content which

remains in the flour after

milling

• Falling Number

• Measures the enzymatic

activity in the flour

• Stability

• This is an indication of the

flour’s mixing tolerance

level 21

Farinograph of Quality Bread flour

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Farinograph of Low Quality Bread

flour

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Yeast Types and amounts

• Fresh Yeast

• Dry Active Yeast

• Instant Yeast

• Deactivated Yeast

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Other Ingredients in Artisan Bread

• Water

• Beer

• Salt

• Honey

• Grains and seeds

• Malt

• Ascorbic Acid

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Ascorbic Acid as a dough

conditioner

• Ascorbic Acid is an excellent clean-label dough

conditioner. To make your own mix, mix

together the following:

• 990 grams Flour

• 10 grams Ascorbic Acid

• Use this mix in amounts from .1% - 1%

Baker’s Math Review

• When writing a formula, the easiest method is to do so

using what is known as baker's percentage, or baker's

math. In using baker's percentage, each ingredient in a

formula is expressed as a percentage of the flour weight,

and the flour weight is always expressed as 100%.

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Ingredients Dough Weight Baker’s Math

Flour 50# 100%

Water 33# ?

Salt 1# ?

Yeast .6# ?

Baker’s math Continued

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Ingredients Dough Weight Baker’s Percent

Flour 50# 100%

Water 33# 66%

Salt 1# 2%

Yeast .6# 1.2%

Prefermented Flour

Prefermented flour is simply the amount of

flour that fermented in the preferment or

starter. This amount is usually described in a

percentage of the total flour used in the

formula.

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Baker’s Percentage and

Prefermented flour

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Ingredients Total % Total Amount Poolish % Poolish Amount

Flour 100% 100.00 lb 100% 33.00 lb

Water 66% 66.00 lb 100% 33.00 lb

Salt 2% 2.0 lb

Yeast 1.25% 1.25 lb .1% .033 lb

Prefermented Flour 33%

Final Dough Formula

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Final Dough Amount

Flour 67.00

Water 33.00

Salt 2.00

Yeast 1.21

Poolish 66.033

Preferments

Yeasted Preferments

• PÂTE FERMENTÉE

• BIGA

• POOLISH

• SPONGE

Natural Preferments

• LEVAIN

• LIQUID LEVAIN

• SOURDOUGH SPONGE

• RYE SOUR

• WHOLE WHEAT

STARTER

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Advantages of

Using Preferments

There are a number

of important benefits

to the correct use of

preferments, and

they all result from

the gradual, slow

fermentation that is

occurring during the

maturing of the

preferment:

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Yeasted Preferments

• Yeasted Preferments are simply

preferments that are started with

commercial yeast and used entirely and

started again anew for the next batch of

bread.

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Poolish

• Poolish is a preferment with

origins, clearly, in Poland. It

initially was used in pastry

production. As its use spread

throughout Europe it became

common in bread. Today it is

literally used worldwide, from

South America to England, from

Japan to the United States. It is by

definition made with equal weights

of flour and water (that is, it is

100% hydration), and a small

portion of yeast. Note the absence

of salt.

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Biga and Sponge

Sponge after Mixing Sponge when ready

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Fermentation Guide

• The above yeast levels greatly depend on time

and temperature. These amounts are given for

a room that is between 65 and 70 degrees.

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Fermentation

time3hours 7 to 8 hours

12 to 15

hours

Quantity of

Fresh Yeast1.5% .7% .1%

Natural Preferments

• One important way in which a sourdough

and levain are different from pâte

fermentée, biga, and poolish, is that the

sourdough and levain can be perpetuated

for months, years, decades, and even

centuries.

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Liquid Levain

• Liquid Levain is a

levain that is at least

100% hydration

(equal parts flour and

water) and can be as

much as 150%

hydration.

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Stiff or Hard Levain

• Stiff Levain or Sourdough is

what most people think of

when talking about natural

starters or preferments. This is

the how the famous Boudin

Bakery in San Francisco has

been making their famous

bread since 1850. However

the stiff levain can be

fermented at many different

temperatures to bring out all

types of flavor and acidity.

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Rye Sour

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• Typically fed once per

day at 5% - 10%

starter to flour ratio.

• Many times the

starter contains all of

the rye flour in the

formula.

• The starter is often

very stiff at mixing

Natural Preferment Feeding

schedule

• Once per day

• Twice per day

• 3 times per day

• Changing consistency

and temperature

during build

• 10 hours before use.

• 10-12 hours before

use

• 8 hours before use

• Usually 2 or 3 builds

in a day. Most

complex.

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Liquid Levain

1 feed

Liquid Levain

2 Feeds

Stiff Levain

2 Feeds

Stiff Levain

3 Feeds

5% - 20% PF 20% - 33% 33% - 50% 50% - 100%

*Percentage based on amount of flour in the feed

Benefit of using preferments: Dough

Structure enhanced

• Dough structure is

strengthened. A

characteristic of all

preferments is the

development of

acidity as a result of

fermentation activity,

and this acidity has a

strengthening effect

on the gluten

structure. 43

Benefits of using preferments:

Production Time Reduced

• Overall production time is

reduced. Above all, to

attain the best bread we

must give sufficient time

for its development. Bread

that is mixed and two or

three hours later is baked

will always lack character

when compared with bread

that contains a well-

developed preferment with

sufficient Prefermented

Flour.

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Benefits of using preferments: Bring

out Different Enzymes

• Liquid preferments typically offer the

advantage of good extensibility in the final

dough due to the protease activity that is

common in highly hydrated preferments.

This can help in the shaping of baguettes

and other long shaped products.

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Preferment Standards

• Poolish & Biga: Typically between 20% -

40% prefermeneted flour

• Natural Starters: Typically between 5% -

25% prefermented flour

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Things to think about when

choosing your preferment

• Production Schedule

• Skill Level of Bakers or staff

• Do you already use a certain preferment?

• Flavor desired

• Quantity to make

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AUTOLYSE

• Autolysing your

dough is a great tool

to help reduce mixing

time.

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Bulk Fermentation

• Time and temperature

• Corrections should be made if temperature is off DDT

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The Bell Curve of Baking

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Lifespan of bread dough

Weak Weak

Strong

Dough

Strengethen

• Mixing

• Folding the dough

• Fermentation that results

in a moderate PH

• Lower water

• Ascorbic Acid

Weaken

• Excessive Mixing

• Excessive fermentation

that results in a very low

PH

• Not enough fermentation

• High water

• Protease enzymes from

liquid starters

• Deactivated yeast

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Mixing and Fermentation

• The more you mix

the less you ferment

• The more you plan

to ferment the less

you need to mix

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The Bell Curve of Baking

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Multiple Factors at Play

Weak Weak

Strong

Mixing Water

Fermentation Acid

Weak Weak weakWeak

Weak Weak

Strong Strong

Strong

Automating Strong & Weak dough

Strong dough Weak dough

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EQUIPMENT

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Reason’s to use automation

• Can we find skilled baker’s?

• Employee retention

• Labor Cost and training

• Workman’s comp and medical insurance

• Fluctuation in daily production

• Inconsistencies in products

• Competing against larger bakeries

• The medium-sized-Bakery Curse56

Levain and Poolish Tanks

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Mixer styles - spiral mixer

Spiral mixers give better consistency and dough development with less friction than a planetary mixer and minimal temperature increase. Spiral mixers come in many different sizes and are capable of mixing down to 15% of their listed capacity.

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Mixer Styles – Spiral with

Removable Bowl

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Mixer styles – Spiral with Tilting

Bowl

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Mixer Styles - Fork Mixer or Oblique

Mainly used in France and in some craft

bakeries here in the USA; It is a little

gentler with the dough than Spiral and

planetary mixers. The shape of the hook

is like an upside-down fork. The bowl

rotation is created by dough friction

against the hook on the bowl wall and is

used to slow down the bowl.

The main drawback of the Fork Mixer is

that it must be at least 50% full.

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Types of Make-Up Equipment

• Modular

• Single machine like a baguette moulder

• Many touch points by human hands

• Lest efficient

• Systemized - Example: dividing, rounding,

resting, shaping and depositing.

• More costly

• Fewer correction points by bakers

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Which was hand shaped?

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Bread and roll dividers

Hydraulic Dividers

In artisan production, this is the most commonly used divider. These dividers contain square or round chambers and usually 20 or 24 cuts. The dough is pre-scaled according to the dough piece weight, multiplied by the number of cuts of the divider. For example, a 20-part divider for a 1-pound piece of dough will be 20 pounds of dough block.

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Hydraulic Divider with Shaping Grids

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Bread and roll dividers

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Divider Rounder

• This divider is mostly for rolls with weight range from 1¼ to 5 ounces, according to the model. Some manufacturers offer head-changing capabilities for different numbers of cuts and weights.

• Difficult to use in excess of 3,000 pieces per is pre-scaled according to the dough piece weight, multiplied by the number of cuts of the divider. For example, a 20-part divider for a 1-pound piece of dough will be 20 pounds of dough block.

Bread Molders

Horizontal Bread Molder

The horizontal bread molder was designed for pan bread but new models have been designed for baguettes, batard, and small breads.

A dough piece is laminated between two rollers then carried by a conveyor under a roll chain. This action curls the flat piece of dough into a short log that goes under a pressure plate to tighten the curl and elongate if needed. Adjustments can be made according to the weight and desired shape.

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Bread Molders

Baguette or French Bread Molder

• The French bread molder got its

name because it comes from

France and is designed to

produce baguettes. The action of

this molder is similar to the

horizontal molder except for the

pressure plate, which is replaced

by two vertical felt belts running at

different speeds in opposite

directions.

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Stress-Free Dividers: square cut

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Stress Free dividers for Rolls with square

cut with rounding

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Piston Dividers for Rolls

• High weight

accuracy

• Fastest dividing

• Only young, firm

dough can be

divided

• Must be used in

conjunction with a

lifting device.

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Comparing Roll Dividers

Piston Divider

• High weight accuracy

• Typically only young firm

dough

• No square cut option

• More rough on dough

• Higher speeds possible

Square Cut Divider

• Lower weight accuracy

• Can handle both young

and fermented dough

• Can handle higher

hydrated dough

• Not as fast

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Lifting and loading dough

• The Tote Lift is one

way to handle

dough.

• This lift can

accommodate

many different

totes.

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Batard

Ciabatta

Products

Piston Divider with work station

Rye bread

Wheat bread

Bread Line with Piston Divider,

Conical Rounder, Overhead Proofer

and Molder

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Piston Bread Line Making Baguettes

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Sheeting & Laminating Lines

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Sheeting Lines

Spreading belts Cutting & Seperating

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Proofer-Retarders

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Oven stylesRack Oven

Rack Ovens are very efficient ovens because they

save labor after panning, the tray is set on the same

rack to be baked. They save space because of the

shelf-like design.

Rack Ovens are very good for many products like

buns, rolls and pastries. However they are not the oven

of choice for breads that need a crust and require a lot

of oven spring. Many artisan bakeries will have 1-3

rack ovens for every deck oven.

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Electric Deck Ovens

Electric ovens are useful for smaller size bakeries, or when a gas or exhaust flue is not possible due to the constraints of a high-rise or an apartment above the bakery. They have two thermostats at the top and bottom of each deck, which enables the baker to bake different products at the same time at different temperatures. Small decks are usually electric.

Electric ovens need a great deal of amperage to operate, which reduces the availability for other equipment without an upgrade to the electrical panel. A three-phase power line is a must.

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Deck Ovens

Deck ovens have multiple baking chambers that are set on top of each other. They are heated by electric elements or gas and have different heat exchanger sources. The surface, which is also called the “hearth” or deck, is usually made from recombined refractory cement and bricks. In Europe, these ovens are used for pastry and bread, especially in quality bakeries.

Deck ovens come in multiple sizes and can utilize electric or gas energy. Gas models come with cyclothermic, steam tubes or thermo oil heat exchangers. The choice is determined by volume and desired aspects of the bake, because each one provides a different result, especially on the crust and in oven spring.

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Steam tube ovens

The Steam Tube oven transfers heat through tubes that are enclosed, and filled partially with water. When the water passes through the tube in front of the burner it turns to steam and begins to circulate through part of the oven. These ovens have these tubes from front to back and the steam moves clockwise through the oven inside its own self contained pipe. Early on in the baking cycle the steam is very efficient in transferring the heat to the decks.

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Steam tube oven

• Enclosed Steel tubes

contain water to carry

the heat around the

decks.

• Notice the brick and

concrete for thermal

mass

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Inside a steam tube oven

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Cyclothermic ovens

Cyclothermic technology has been around for almost 100 years. To this day it is still the most popular oven in Germany and the Eastern portion of Europe. The Cyclothermic oven is based on simple technology that uses air to move the heat to the baking chambers. The air moves inside panels above and below the baking chamber. It has slightly less mass than steam tube ovens, but can recover more quickly to the fluctuations of the baking cycle. It can be adjusted to raise or lower the temperature depending on the needs of the baker. In most cases the decks recovery fully in 6 – 8 minutes and can even be adjusted in temperature for the specific bread. Some manufactures’ offer a Combitherm option where you can have 2 different baking zones in the same oven. This is achieved by the use of dampers that control the heat flow to the top decks.

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Cyclothermic heating system

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Thermal oil deck ovensThermal Oil is the most resilient heat of the three. Thermal Oil technology has not been around as long as Steam Tube and Cyclothermic technology but it gives you a massive amount of heat to each baking chamber with only a minor drop in temperature during the loading phase. A Thermal oil oven consist of two parts; the first being the oven and the second is a remote boiler that heats the oil that is then pumped to the oven from another area of the bakery through pipes that usually run across the ceiling of the bakery. These large boilers can run up to five ovens in some cases. The oil is pumped through the ovens like the steam in a steam tube oven, but then returns to the boiler to be reheated. These ovens only experience a minor drop in heat when loaded with cool dough and have claims to be the most energy efficient on the market. The down side to these ovens is that the baker cannot adjust the baking temperature from bake to bake or even one hour to the next. These ovens have such an over whelming amount of mass that it is almost impossible to fluctuate the temperature during a shift. The other major disappointment is the price tag! Everyone knows that equipment is expensive, but these ovens are often 3 to 4 times more than the other two types of ovens. These ovens are designed for Par Bake plants that have a massive amount of output of one product during a shift.

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Thermal Oil Multi-Deck Tunnel Oven

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Thermal Oil Boilers needed to

support ovens

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What production deck oven to

choose?

Steam Tube

• Heavy oven with lots

of thermal mass

• Slower to change heat

• Preheat temp close to

actual baking temp

• Drier bake

• Needs less recovery

time when back-

loading, will eventually

need a lot of time.

• Most often only 4

decks high

• Not easily moved

Cyclothermic

• Less thermal

mass

• Can adjust

temperature over

the baking shift

• Preheat temp

higher than baking

temp. (empty oven

can raise too high)

• Moist bake

• Recovery is

consistent when

given time

• Can be moved

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Thermal Oil

• Best heat recovery

• Hard to adjust temp

• Can have many

decks for large

capacity

• Most often paired

with a automated

loader

• Installation cost

very high

• Mostly suited for

par-baked frozen

bread

Calculating Deck Oven Size

There are 2 ways to calculate the oven

size required for your bakery.

1. Calculate the number of pieces per deck

and the amount of baking and recovery

time needed.

2. Use the manufacturers formula of lbs per

square meter per hour which is usually 18

- 25 lbs per square meter per hour

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Control Panels

Touch screens are nice

but always check and

see if they have a

manual backup option

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Oven LoadersAn oven loader is a piece of equipment that replaces the oven peel and helps load the deck oven rapidly. The proofed dough is positioned on the loader belt, and the entire frame goes inside the oven. It spans the entire length of the deck and the width of the loading window. The frame is locked and pulled back, at which point the belt turns and drops the dough on top of the deck. The reverse action is used to unload baked bread. The most common loader for deck ovens is manual; however, electric loaders are available, as well as automatic ones for large production, as shown in the picture on the left.

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Oven Loaders

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Layout & design

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How much bread are you going to make?

• Take the 100-1,000-10,000 test

• How many loaves do you want to make?• 100 per day?

• 1,000 per day?

• 10,000 per day?

• More per day?

• What do you have to do different in each category?

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Identify your space requirements

Your facilities space is the one finite factor that

many other decisions stem from.

Look into the future and see what your bakery

will look like when running at full capacity.

Unless a space expansion is possible in the

future you must envision your bakery at full

capacity today and set aside space in the

beginning for future equipment purchases.

Keep in mind that your bakery must be

balanced.

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Designing a

Bakery

• How many square

feet ?

• Menu categories?

• Stages in

production

• Balance every

stage to meet your

production goals

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How Much Space Do I Need?

Bread A simple calculation for bread production:

1.5 lbs of dough per square foot is max!

.75 lb to 1 lb is expected.

Example:1000 square feet of *production space can produce

around 1500 lbs of bread in a 24 hour shift. This would be at the maximum capacity for most bakeries.

* Production space is everything that is not retail or administration offices.

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P.I.M.P

• People

• Ingredients

• Machines

• Process

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Production Space allocation

• Receiving

• Storage - Dry &

Cold/Freezer

• Mixing

• Bulk Fermentation

• Storage - Rack & Wares

• Make up Area –

Bread/Pastry

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• Dish Room

• Proofing/retarding

• Baking

• Cooling

• Packaging

• Shipping

Ancillary Space

• Employee Entrance

• Locker Room

• Employee restroom

• Cloak Room

• Break Room

• Kitchen

• Outside Smoking

• Maintenance Room

• Admin

• Office

• Archive Storage

• Conference room

• Production office

• Retail space

• Seating

• Indoor/outdoor

• Restrooms

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Work Flow considerations

• One way traffic if

possible

• Keeping like menu

items together

• Number of steps to

the next process

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2,000 SF Bakery

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7500 SF Wholesale Bakery

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Conceptual Task Sequence &

Equipment purchase

• Secure building and

establish a move in date

• Get final quotes and spec

sheets on equipment and

lead times

• Finalize your architectural

drawing including:

• Work flow

• Utility hookups

• Order equipment

• Establish your delivery and

install dates.

• Finalize your equipment

requirements. • Know your manufacturer’s

equipment requirements.

• Schedule Installation and

training• Baker and technician

• Give plenty of time to get new

equipment working properly

109

Distribution Channels

• How are you

getting your

products to

market?

• Retail sales

• Kiosks

• DSD

• Grocer

• Farmers markets

• Par-Baked Frozen

110

Thank you!

Sources• Delmar Learning Center

• TMB Baking

• Advanced Bread & Pastry by Michelle Suas

• Bread by Jeffrey Hamelman

• WP Bakery Group

• Gemini Bakery Equipment

• Merand Bakery Equipment

• Bloemhof

• Erika Record

• JAC Moulder and dividers

• ABR, Inc

•

111