Advanced- Display Cabinet

8/13/2019 Advanced- Display Cabinet

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Display CabinetA spectacular way to show off both your favourite treasures and yourwoodworking skills, this classic glazed cabinet will repay the choice of afine furniture timber, such as the Tasmanian Blackwood of our example.Although delicate and complex in appearance, the cabinet is based onsimple rectangular frames, assembled with mortice and tenon joints; allits angles and facets are simply formed with a single router bit. All themouldings are similarly made with a single decorative router bit. Both a112" rotJler and an Extension Table are essential for the project.

Gomponent Specif icationsAll dimensions are in mm.Part Desqiption Width Thickness LenqthA Rear Frame side 2 42 19 1060B Rear Frame side* 2 42 19 740C Mullion 6 42 19 1060D Mullion. 6 42 19 740E Top Rail 6 135 19 339F Bottom Rail 6 42 19 339G Rear Top Rail 2 135 19 896H Rear Lower Rail 2 42 19 896I Cabinet Back 1 896 6 903J Cabinet Back* 1 896 6 464K Plinth 5 pieces fitted after assemblyL Fixing Block 3 as requiredM Centre Moulding 5 pieces fitted after assemblyN Top Moulding 10 pieces fitted after assemblyO Top and Base 4 pieces of 19mm veneeredmaterial* lndicates lower cabinet component.NOTE: Plinth and mouldings are measured and cut tosuit after cabinet assembly. Cabinet tops and bases(O) are marked using the cabinet frame itself as atemplate.

Tool irements1. ESSENTIAL Triton Workcentre and your power saw; Triton Router and Jigsaw Table; 112" rouler and bits asfollows: 6.5mm (1.4") straight bit; rabbeting bit; large vee groove bit (40mm dia.); small-radius rounding over bit;l Omm or larger straight bit for removing waste material; Triton Extension Table; electric drill and Triton Woodbits;countersink bit;jigsaw; sash or bar clamps; hammer; nail punch; screwdriver; hand plane; measuring tape; square;pencil; sanding block or finishing sander.2. USEFUL Routing and bevel cutting platform (see Jig Guide); drill press or stand for electric drill; large square;marking or mortice gauge; sliding bevel gauge; smalltack hammer; extra clamps, or band clamps; Forstner bit andmatching plug cutter.

@ Copyright Triton Manufacturing and Design Co. Pty. Ltd. lssue No.l. December 1991


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Construction DetailsMaterial Shoppinq List1. WOOD The brilliance of the glass and mirror backssuggest a dark, rich timber for contrast and to highlightthe delicacy of the framing. Many of the native cabinettimbers will be suitable, but it is imporlant to ensurethat your timber is straight and square before dressingto size, and that it is thoroughly seasoned.The veneered material should be chosen to match orcomplement the cabinet timber; the plywood for thebacks can be an inexpensive grade, as it is entirelycovered by the mirrors.Shop for:Seasoned hardwood cabinet grade timber DAR:135x19mm 3@2jm90x19mm [email protected]

42x19mm [email protected],[email protected] or contrasting 19mm veneered particleboard: 4 pieces approximately 900mm x 300mmInterior grade plywood: 1 sheet 1800 x 900 x 6mmAbout 1m of 19 x 19mm solid timber to match theveneered material is also required for filler blocks andcleats, plus one metre of 19mm wide iron-on veneertape.Glass retaining bead: Usual sizes of window glassbead are too large, being wider than the glass rebatesof the cabinet. A 6mm x 8mm quad section mouldingis needed to retain the glass.(Available in Victoria from A.J. Lewis & Co., Ormond,in cedar. Elsewhere, try timber suppliers specializingin mouldings).Approximately 6lengths @ 21m is required.2. FASTENING We used a combination of screwsand glue to attach the side frames to the rear of thecabinet, and glue alone for the tenons. Resorcinolglue was chosen for strength, and because its darkcolour matched the timber we used.The remainder of the cabinet was fastened usingpower-driven Phillips-head screws, or round-headedscrews and washers where movement due to humiditychanges might occur.

16 brass screws 69 x 38mm long30 countersunk steel screws 89 x 45mm40 countersunk steel screws 89 x 30mm

24 countersunk steelscrews 69 x 16mm16 round-headed steelscrews 89 x 30mmSmall pins to attach glass beading.Silicone mastic for bedding glass and mirrors.3. OTHER For the cabinet backs, two sheets of4mm mirror glass approximately 875mm x 882mmand 875mm x 443mm respectively will be required.The cabinet fronts require 3mm window glassapproximately 958mm x 320mm and 520 x 320mmrespectively, but the exact sizes are determinedafter the cabinet frames are completed.6mm plate glass shelves with "sanded" edges are cutto a template and supported on suitable shelf brackets.The number and disposition of these is up to individualrequirements, but we fitted three shelves, supported onbrass-plated angle brackets that fitted into drilled holesin the cabinet sides.Internal lighting is optional, but enhances the appear-ance of the displayed objects considerably. We usedtwo small, inexpensive cylindrical light fittings soldby IKEA (intended to illuminate hanging pictures).screwed to the top of each cabinet, towards the rear.Two pairs of brass hinges, two small(1Omm) ballcatches, and knobs or handles to suit your tastecomplete the cabinet. lt is preferable to use solid brassextruded hinges, rather than the stamped brass-platedhinges sold in hardware stores; a brass piano hingecould be substituted if desired.4. FINISHING A high-gloss varnish or French polishwould be the most suitable treatment, but both tend tohighlight minor impedections in surface finish. Wefound that two coats of Cabot's Danish Oil, with thesecond coat rubbed on with a "Scotchbrite" olasticscouring pad, gave a pleasant, soft lustre withoutaccentuating small sudace blemishes.Both internal and external sudaces must be finished.to guard against warping due to humidity changes.A quality furniture wax will maintain a soft sheen onthe exterior without attracting dust, and is easier toapply without smearing the glass than silicon sprayproducts.

General Points1. Each cabinet consists of three similarrectangular frames, the outermost two of whichare bevelled on their vertical edges and attachedto the rear assembly. The cabinet tops andbottoms screw into place and stiffen the structurein the horizontal plane.2. All the machine work is straightforward, butcare in marking out the mortices is required, and

will be amply repaid in the reduced amount ofsanding required on the finished frames.3. Note that the back is screwed, not glued inplace. This is to allow the glass shelves, whichare too long to fit through the front door, to befitted in the completed cabinet.


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Construction DetailsIsolid

Cut the solid material for the frame sides, vthe mullions, and the top and bottom rails tolength (A,B,C,D,E,F,G,H). The remainingmaterial is for the plinth and mouldings.Carefully mark the positions of the morticesas shown in Figure 1. Note that the morticesin the sides of the rear frames (A) and (B)are only 11mm deep, and that the components arehanded left and right. The remaining mortices in theglazed frame mullions (C) and (D) are 20mm deep,and are central in the edge of the material.Using either stops on long fence extensions,or pencil marks on your router and jigsawtable as a guide, make all the mortices with

a 6.5mm straight bit. Do not attempt the deepermortices in one pass of the material, use two orthree passes.Using the Table Saw mode, make tenonson 6 rails (E) and 6 rails (F) as shown inFigure 2. Similarly make tenons on 2 longrails (G) and two long rails (H), noting that thesetenons are only 1Omm long. Round the ends of thetenons, or chiselthe ends of your mortices square,and test fit the components together.Glue together rear frames for the top andbottom cabinets, as in Figure 3, using thehanded components (A and B), and the topand bottom rails (G and H). Bar or sash clamps willbe necessary, and care should be taken to keepthe frames square. When the glue has set drill andcounterbore four holes in the rear edge of eachside of the frames, for the screws which hold thecabinet sides in place.

Figure 4 shows a section of a screw hole andcounterbore. The exact position of the holes is notimportant, but note that the counterbores shouldnot be too shallow, or the screw heads will preventthe rear edges of the frames being rebated for theplywood back; neither should they be too deep, orthe points of the screws will come through theangles front face of the side frames.

Glue together three top frames fromO (C, E and F), and three bottom frames from- (D, E and F). These willform the sides anddoors of the cabinet, and again, care should betaken to keep them square. Figure 5 shows bothtop and bottom frames. When the glue is dry selectand mark the frames, choosing the straightest andsquarest for the doors. The "legs" will be cut off thelower door frame later.

GLASSSHELF


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7401 060L

NOTE: MORTICES lN (C) AND (D) ARE 20mm DEEP,MORTICES lN (A) AND (B) ARE 11mm DEEP.FIGURE 1: LOCATION OF MORTICES

A lMake oneL.H., one R-H.)

B lMake oneL.H., one R.H.)

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FIGURE 2: TENONS

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Construction Details

DRILL AND COUNTERSINK4 POSITIONS EACH SIDE.SEE FIGURE 4.

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FIGURE 3A: UPPER CABINET FRAME

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Using a trammel bar, or a suitably radiusedobject as a guide, mark the curved decora-tive cutouts on the top rails (E), as in Figure 6.Cut out the curves with a power jigsaw or apadsaw, taking care to follow the line smoothly.The inside edges of the rectangular framesare now rounded over on the outer face, forbetter appearance, and rebated on the innerto take the glass panes. Using your Shaper

DRILL AND COUNTERSINK4 POSITIONS EACH SIDE(SEE FIGURE 4)

FIGURE 38: LOWER CABINET FHAME

Table and a small radius rounding-over bit withguide bearing, round the edges (including thecurved section) with the outer faces of the framesdown.Now turn the frames over, face up, and with arabbeting bit make a 1Omm wide and 1Omm deeprebate on the inside face, including the curved topsection. Chisel the lower corners of the rebatesquare, and sand the outside corners where therounding over bit did not reach. (Figure 7).

------->DIAMETER TOCLEAR SCREWHEAD

DIAMETER TOCLEAR SCREWSHANKSECTION THROUGH (A)AND (B) SHOWING SCREW HOLES.

FIGURE 4


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LOWERCABINETFRAME(3 REQUIRED) CUT OFF ONE FRAMEONLY (LOWER DOOR)SEE STEP 20

UPPER CABTNET FRAME (3 BEQUTRED)FIGURE 5: GLAZED CABINET FRAMES FIGURE 6: DECORATIVE CUT-OUTSReset the rabbeting bit and make a 1Omm widex 6mm deep rebate in the rear frames, for theplywood backs. Chisel the corners square in thesame way.

So that a simple rectangular pane of glasscan be fitted, the rebates are now extendedbehind the curved section, as shown in theshaded area of Figure 8. Use a straight cutter bit,1Omm diameter or larger, set to suit the samedepth as the rebate.It will be necessary to mark the limits of the cutterbit on your router table top with a pencil, and/oruse stops to limit the travel of the frame. The fencemust be moved by the width of your cutter bit, foreach cut. When all the material has been removed,chisel the upper corners square. Set aside theframes chosen for the two doors.f tl The side frames now have their outer longI U ;:fl :'J,i^"5 i:lr3',1'.i?3 ""Toll,i ji,.nseveral passes of the frames to avoid splintering,until the edges are a full 45 degree bevel. Theframes are placed face up on the table for thisoperation.The frames are now turned over, face down, andthe fence reset to take a small cut. Using the samebit the "point" is now taken off each bevelled edge

-t0 x 1Omm -.'REBATE ALLFRAMES

THISEDGEROUNDEDOVEB

sEcTtoN THROUGH (C) AND (D) SHOWN.FIGURE 7


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Construction Details

REBATE TORECTANGULARqHAptr at IFRAMES

Upper Frame shown.FIGURE 8: REBATE EXTENSION

until the angled face is 19mm wide. This latter facewill be adjacent to the rear frame and the door oneither side of the cabinet. Refer to Figures 9and 10 for clarity.I I This is the most convenient time to drillI I holes in the inner face of the side framesr r for shelving brackets. Measure down fromthe top edge of each frame, equally, to ensure theshelves will be level.

ILL AND COUNTERBORE TO SUITx 38mm BRASS SCREWS (SrEP 5)6mm PLYWOOD BACK

3mm GLASS

FIGURE 1o: SECTION THROUGH CABINET

THIS REMOVEDAFTER BEVELIS COMPLETED/qtrtr RHq\

FIGURE 9: EDGE BEVELS ON CABINET SIDE FRAMES

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;FIGUBE'i;l'l

You may also find it convenient to drill the top andbottom rails (E and F) of the cabinet sides (not thedoors ), for the screws which will hold the cabinettops and bottoms (components O) in place.Two equally spaced screw holes in each rail aresufficient, 9.5mm from the top and bottom edgesrespectively - see the front elevation drawing forlocation. Countersink or counterbore for woodenplugs as required. This is also the best time tofinish sand both inside and outside faces of all thecomponents.

FIGURE 13

f A The rear frames, sides and door of each| 2 cabinet can now be clamped together,I r using band clamps, or masking-or ducttape. (Figure 11).Drill the pilot holes for the screws which will fastenthe rear frames to the sides through the counter-bores in the rear frames (made in Step 5). Remem-ber to place about 2mm packing either side of thedoors, to allow for clearance and the thickness ofthe hinges, and take care not to drill the pilot holestoo deeply or you will break through the front faceof the side frames.When happy with the fit, coat the mating edges withglue and screw the sides to the rear frame, leavingthe doors clamped or taped in place while the gluesets to align the cabinet.

FIGURE 12: CABINET TOPS & BOTTOMS


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Construction Details19mm ADDITIONAL STRIP FOR STABILITY

CENTRE MOULDINGPIECES 90mm WIDE

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ll, With the basic cabinet shape now est-I O i:f[:t,g%TffT3iJ:::?T:T3ii":?:.material, and the shape of the cabinet tops andbottoms (O) scribed from inside. Figure 12 showsthe approximate shape and size; the angle of thesides may differ slightly from 45 degrees, dependinghow much of the material was removed when thesides were bevelled. Our example was about43112 degrees.The components are cut first to a rectangularshape, and then the angled cuts are made in thecrosscut mode using the protractor as a guide.

I tl The components (O) are now screwedI Ia into place inside the cabinets, flush withr r the upper and lower edges of the rails(E and F). Plug or fill the screw holes, remove theclamps or tape and take out the door frames. Coverthe exposed pafticle board edge with matchingiron-on veneer tape.l5 Prepare the remaining material for theplinth and mouldings by forming a suit-able edge, using your Shaper Table. Weformed a large Roman Ogee profile on one edge ofallthe material.Rip about 12mm off the width of the 135mmmaterial for the plinth so that when fitted the uppermoulded edge just overlaps the lower edge of thebottom rail (F) (by one to two mm).

I6 Set up your saw in the crosscut modewith some sheet packing material or yourRouting and Bevel Cutting platform. Anglethe saw to a setting of 22112 degrees on its bevelscale, and using some scrap, fairly wide, 19mmthick material, make test cuts and adjustments asnecessary until you are satisfied with the fit of theplinth mitres. Cut the material for the plinth.You will note that you must cut from alternate sidesof the platform for the bevels on each end of thecentre and side pieces, and you may find it

necessary to clamp the material being cut downto the table. Cut the front piece of the plinth first,clamp it temporarily in position, and then fit eachside section to it.The small "return" pieces are bevel cut on eachend of a longer piece of material for safety, andafter scribing in situ, crosscut to length when thesaw is returned to the vertical.

17 ililit iffi ,',,ilg, *:i*'s[,T"%' ;,'ii,.. t the sides and top as required for a goodclosing fit. lt is convenient to fit the top door alsoat this time.Hold the front piece of the plinth in position andscribe a line across its top edge, on the face ofthe lower door. This line indicates the amount ofmaterial to be removed from the bottom of thelower door. Remove the door.f a The plinth can now be finally fitted allI o ?ir,1,#,?ffi:'$"iiJi.H:'"?i 3[,"square material, which are first screwed to theinner edges of the side frame extension "legs".The side plinth pieces are screwed to the sideand rear frame extensions from the inside. Roundheaded screws and washers in oversize screwshank holes allow some slight adjustment for agood fit. Figure 13 shows a rcar view of the blocksin position.You will also find a 19mm gap visible between thefront of the lower cabinet bottom component (O),and the rear of the plinth, when the door is open.This is most conveniently filled with a long fillerblock of 19 x 42mm material, screwed or glued tothe underside of the veneered particle board.Veneer tape can be applied if your filler block isnot of the same material as your cabinet.


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f a The mouldings that separate the twoI Y i"t$",j; iT#ur';l'fi'Jirn:T,ii1:" 23 Finish sand the outer faces of thecomponents as necessary, fit and checkthe doors and apply two coats of thechosen finish both inside and out. When thoroughlydry, fit the mirrors to the cabinet backs, as follows.The mirrors are held to the plywoodbacks with a good quality siliconeadhesive. They can be glued to theplywood backs inside the pencilled rectangles,or if they are cut to be a close fit in the rearaperture it is safer to fit them as follows.

With the cabinet upright, place the mirror throughthe rear apedure into the cabinet. The angled sideswill prevent it from moving very far forward. Coatthe area on the plywood back which will be incontact with the mirror liberally with siliconeadhesive, and fit the back.Carefully tip the cabinet backwards and lay it downon its back, holding the mirror through the openside frames. Slide the mirror into place so that itdrops into the recess, and place some weights onto it until the silicone has set.Remove the back and mirror by undoing thescrews and put it aside in a safe place.

25 Glaze the doors and sides of the cabinets.working through the open back for con-venience. The glass panes are beddedon a thin bead of silicone, and held in position withsmall-section quad beading.lf using the suggested 8mm x 6mm beading, notewhich way round it fits. The 6mm dimension allowsfor a glass thickness of up to 4mm in the 1Ommdeep rebate.When cutting the corner mitres, ensure that the8mm wide face is downwards at all times, or theywill not fit You may find it more convenient to pre-coat the beading with the chosen finish beforecutting.

cut in the crosscut mode with the orotractor set at22112 degrees, and the mitred pieces screwed tocomponent (O).The amount by which the moulding projects is amatter for personal choice, but we aligned thebottom of the upper cabinet with the end of thecurved section of the roman Ogee. Figure 14shows a top and section view of the moulding inplace on the lower cabinet. Add a 19mm thick stripof material at the back of the moulding for stablesupport of the top cabinet.

The upper crown moulding is fitted in asimilar way, but in inverted and of doublethickness. The topmost pieces are dis-placed so that the profile is that of a single largesection moulding. Figure 15 shows a section of themoulding in position.2l Using the Extension Table, trim the"leg" extensions off the lower door tothe previously made mark. Measure therecesses in the cabinet backs, and cut two plywoodbacks (l and J) to fit. Drill and countersink for16mm x 69 screws, and temporarily fit the backs.Scribe a pencil mark around the inner recess to actas a guide for fitting the mirrors, and remove thebacks.

22 Complete the details of the cabinethardware, such as drilling for ballcatches, knobs or handles etc. Checkthe fit of the shelf brackets in the holes, measurethe recesses and order the glass and mirrors.Make a cardboard template similar in shape tocomponent (O), but a little smaller, from which tohave cut the bevelled glass shelves. Make sure thetemplate will clear the mirror at the rear.

UPPERMOULDINGSINVERTED ANDDOUBLED

UPPER CABINET

FIGURE 15: SECTION THBOUGH TOP MOULDING


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Construction DetailsFix the beading with small pins, using a smallhammer and fine punch, and remove any excesssilicone with a razor blade after it has set.

Fit the internal light fittings, if required,drilling through the upper back rails (E)close to one side for the power cable.The two cabinets are aligned and lightly clampedtogether by three screws driven up through thetop of the lower cabinet into the bottom of the oneabove. Place the upper cabinet in place and drillthe necessary holes and pilot holes, countersinkingif desired. Separate the cabinets.

27Finally, thoroughly clean the inside ofthe cabinets and the glass. Fit the shelfsupports, and clean and fit the glassshelves. Clean and fit the mirrored backs, polishthe exteriors and screw clamp the two cabinetstogether in their final location. Now you can enjoyarranging your displays.

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Advanced- Display Cabinet